Categories
Opinion Viewpoint

In Their Shoes

Some time ago I interviewed a professor at Howard University who recalled his boyhood in the South and the kindness of a shoestore owner who let him try on shoes. Mostly, blacks were not permitted to try on shoes before buying them — a feature of Jim Crow racism that took some creativity to come up with.

To be poor and stuck with shoes that don’t fit tells you a lot about racism in America. You and I would not want to walk in those shoes.

The Senate approved a resolution last week apologizing for never enacting an anti-lynching law. You can scoff at the Senate’s action and ask, What good will it do? The victims of lynchings are dead. It’s a bit late to apologize. The same can be said for the other institutions that lately have been owning up to their somewhat shameful pasts. Some of them have been forced into contrition by local laws demanding an accounting. Wachovia Corporation, for example.

After Chicago insisted that any company doing business with the city had to reveal any past connection with slavery, the huge bank dug and dug and came up with a connection: Two predecessor banks held slaves as collateral for loans. Most of the loans were paid off, but some weren’t. The slaves, I assume, were repossessed — like a car from a deadbeat owner.

J.P. Morgan Chase has also apologized for the way its predecessor institutions made their money. Some owned slaves outright; some took possession upon default of loans. The numbers of slaves were not small. In all, J.P. Morgan’s antecedents owned more than 1,250 men and women. The bank apologized and established a $5 million scholarship fund for black students from Louisiana to attend college in their home state — the state where the predecessor banks were located.

I count myself pretty knowledgeable about our own history, yet I did not know that slaves were used as collateral. Why this never occurred to me, I cannot explain. It just didn’t.

When Bill Clinton, on a presidential visit to Africa, offered an apology for the enslavement of black Africans by white Americans, he was criticized for it in the usual circles. But what Clinton said that day in Uganda was right on the money: “Going back to the time before we were even a nation, European Americans received the fruits of the slave trade, and we were wrong in that.”

Wrong to have done it, wrong to have benefited, and right to have apologized — an appropriate expression of regret, I wrote at the time. An apology from the person who did not do the injury to the person who was not directly injured is in a special category. But in the sense that an apology is an acknowledgment, it not only makes sense, it is long overdue. It says, among other things, not merely that we are sorry — ashamed would be more like it — but we know something about what we have done.

It’s not some abstraction called slavery that was wrong; it was the wrecking of individual lives, one after another. Little by little we learn. We were not always — and maybe not even yet — such wonderful people. We could be bad. We could be evil. We could be human. It is always good to keep that in mind.

The shoe story sticks with me because it is not about being denied the vote or the right to attend a certain school or drink from a particular water fountain. It is about walking, putting one foot in front of another — the pain we all know when the shoe does not fit. It is not in the same category as lynchings or beatings or the ordinary terror of being black in a world of white racism.

It’s a little thing. Slip it on. If you are white, it will fit.

Richard Cohen is a member of the Washington Post Writers Group.

Categories
Sports Sports Feature

Forum Fisticuffs

Andre Ward was full of surprises: In the ring the middleweight hopeful and former Olympic gold medalist had stopped opponent Ben Aragon cold with what looked like a hard jab, one so stout that the referee stopped the fight with Aragon still standing and looking puzzled as to his whereabouts. Said Ward on a later visit to press row: “I hit him with a lot of those just to keep him from head-butting me.” What is it they say about the best defense being a good offense?
But the real jolt came in a throwaway line from Ward about his preparation for the fight. “I was doing low-carb and high-protein,” the boxer confided. An astonishing fact (since carb-loaders are the rule in high-intensity endurance sports like boxing), but surely an encouraging one for all us ordinary mortals who keep climbing on and off the Atkins wagon.
That was one post-fight moment from Saturday night’s fight card at Fed-ExForum. Another came after the evening’s penultimate event, a warm-up featuring name middleweights Verno Phillips and Ike Quartey, the latter a Ghanan and veteran of some famously hard and close fights with premier fighters Fernando Vargas and Oscar de la Hoya.
Phillips staggered Quartey in rounds one and two, and he had the onetime media star on the canvas in round nine and on the ropes in round 10. Quartey totally dominated the middle rounds, though, and since he was able to hold on and finish strong, the judges’ various arithmetics had Quartey the winner by an aggregate of a point.
That was too much for Arthur Pelullo, the American’s promoter, who crossed over into press row to complain that a second ninth-round knockdown of Quartey — ruled a slip by the referee — should have made the fight a draw.
Soon Lou DiBella, Quartey’s promoter, materialized to contest that interpetation. “He didn’t do enough in the middle rounds, Artie.”
“He knocked him down twice, Louie,” repeated Pelullo.
This dispute went back and forth, in a close approximation of the fight itself, and finally DiBella said, “Okay, so it was close. That’s good for us. It makes it easier to get Vargas and de la Hoya!”
Prizefighting (stress on both syllables) is, after all, about paydays, and Saturday night’s main event, for the undisputed light-heavyweight championship, should result in at least one more well-deserved run to the bank by both winner Antonio Tarver and loser Glen Johnson.
Both were journeymen fighters, cast in the mold of ’30s heavyweight champ James “Cinderalla Man” Braddock, who labored in obscurity before putting together the streak of impressive if unexpected wins that made him a titleholder and an inspiration to working stiffs of his time (as well as to movie-makers in ours).
Both now 36, the fighters had similar so-so resumés before each happened to fight — and knock out — the celebrated Roy Jones, often called “the best fighter pound-for-pound in the world.” (Johnson’s victory here last year was the event that inaugurated the FedExForum.) Dressed in a tux, an appreciative Jones was safely at ringside to help call Saturday night’s televised and heavily billed “megafight” for HBO.
The two superb light-heavies had tangled in Los Angeles last December, with Johnson taking what was then Tarver’s title in a split decision. Saturday night’s fight, a 12-round slugfest, was equally close, with the rangy Tarver outpointing the shorter Johnson, who landed fewer, but harder, shots.
“We need to do this again,” said a happy Joe DeGuardia, Tarver’s promoter. That was promptly seconded by Johnson’s main man, Dan Goosen, and by the two fighters themselves.
At a pre-fight press conference last week, the loquacious Tarver had done most of the talking, with Johnson commenting, “I don’t do talking. I do boxing.”
Actually, they both do both, and a third “conversation,” to settle the argument for good, is very much in order. Hopefully right here in River City.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Hmmm … Page

Well, which is it? TV producer, documentary filmmaker, and human guinea pig Morgan Spurlock says you shouldn’t. Celebrity chef, star restaurateur, and Food Network heartthrob Tyler Florence says you should. (So does Klutz: see below.) At issue: to eat or not to eat “this book.”

Spurlock’s the guy who force-fed himself a diet of McDonald’s – three (happy?) meals a day for a full 30 days – in the movie Super Size Me, and guess what: Spurlock had a gut reaction. His innards cried foul. His private parts started tingling. His head went haywire.

Now he’s an author with Don’t Eat This Book: Fast Food and the Supersizing of America (Putnam), and guess again: If you’re among a big chunk of American men, women, and children, you’re right there with him – chowing down and fattening up on the processed junk that passes for mealtime in today’s number-one fast-food nation. But why beat up on McDonald’s? You deserve a break today. Just try “passing” this:

Hardee’s “Monster Thickburger” – two 1/3-pound slabs of Angus beef, four strips of bacon, three slices of cheese, and mayonnaise on a buttered sesame-seed bun. That’s 1,420 calories and 107 grams of fat in a single sitting, and that’s without fries to further gum up your works and a half-gallon of sugary soft drink to wash it all down. But wait. There’s more. Have some hard facts to go with your order, the same facts that open Don’t Eat This Book.

According to one fat-tracking medical association, obesity figures for Americans went from 12 percent in 1991 to 21 percent in 2001, and according to the Associated Press, America’s widening waistlines are hurting the bottom line. A case in point: Heavier fliers have created heftier fuel costs. In 2000, that translated into an additional $275 million to burn 350 million more gallons of airline fuel just to get U.S. asses off the ground, which in turn sent 3.8 million extra tons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere. Take a breath. Read on.

According to Spurlock, everybody’s doing their part: from the fat cats who run the fast-food megabusinesses, to the fat cats who dream up the false advertising, to the fat cats who lobby in Washington, to the fat cats in Congress who turn a blind eye, to the fat cats who head the FDA and the USDA, to the fat cat (you?) who swallows all of it.

Spurlock’s advice: Don’t buy into any of it. Spurlock’s book: top-heavy with good reasons why.

For a refresher course in fine dining, see Tyler Florence’s scrumptious Eat This Book: Cooking with Global Fresh Flavors (Clarkson Potter), a cookbook with photographs by Petrina Tinslay that are good enough to devour.

An easy(?)-to-prepare case in point: Florence’s recipe for “Grilled Octopus from a Small Restaurant in Nice,” which calls for the following: some garlic, some lemon zest, some kosher salt, some celery, some fennel sauce, some olive oil, a grill, and a five-pound decapitated octopus. (Takes one hour and 45 minutes to fix; serves six; discard octopus head.)

Sounds icky? Try “Grilled Pizza with Mozzarella di Bufala, Sausage, and Fresh Tomatoes.” Start by making your own dough from scratch. Then make a mess. “Crush” the tomatoes using your hands. “Rip” the mozzarella into pieces. “Crumble in” the Italian sausage. Add a “glug-glug” of olive oil. (Takes two hours to prepare; serves four to six; and don’t worry with the buffalo. You’re free to buy the mozzarella, made from the milk of said beast.) Then sit yourself down.

Your guests too – according to your table’s placecards made out of the pages of Eat This Book! by the people from Klutz Press, a children’s-book publisher. The paper is edible. The ink from the marker provided is edible. But one word of caution: One reader on Amazon reports that guests ate their placecards as a first course, but the ink stained their lips and tongue something awful.

Recipe to do something about the stains and make your guests feel right at home: Arm & Hammer’s “Shake ‘n Shine” baking soda – the handy “Sink-Side Shaker” in the plastic container with “Resealable Lid.”

“Not for Antacid Use” reads the product’s fine print, however. Not for use as a dentrifice either. Or for baking. Not for consumption, period.

What the hell’s it for? A fresher, cleaner microwave, refrigerator, pot, or pan, we’re told. And here I’ve been brushing my teeth with this stuff for years. Now, I learn, it’s not fit to eat. It and my routine meals, in spite of Spurlock, never mind Florence, at McDonald’s. n

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

FOOD NEWS

It took about two months of remodeling to turn the former Amber Palace on Second Street into the Big Foot Lodge. Owners Shawn and Lana Danko used timbers from Montana for the log-cabin walls, Tennessee River rock for the fireplace and stone columns, and birch bark trees from Minnesota for a room divider between the spacious dining room and bar. Stuffed game animals adorn the space, along with the restaurant’s mascot, an eight-foot resin sculpture of a Sasquatch, forged in Midtown artist Yvonne Bobo’s studio.

The restaurant’s namesake isn’t the only thing of enormous proportions. “We have a four-pound cheeseburger – ‘The Sasquatch’ – that is $19.95, and it comes with a pound of fries,” says chef Sean Andrews, who came to Memphis from Port Lucy, Florida, where he worked as a trainer for the Olive Garden and a manager for Applebee’s. “If you can finish the burger in less than 60 minutes by yourself, you get it free.”

The menu also offers choices ranging from grilled ham-and-cheese and catfish to prime rib and lobster. And, of course, no wintry lodge would be complete without s’mores. Guests are served all the fixings for these tasty campfire treats and can even roast the marshmallows at their table using a Sterno flame.

This is the first restaurant for owners Shawn and Lana, although Shawn has worked 13 years at Hard Rock Café, most recently as general manager of the Beale Street location. His wife, Lana, is a sales and marketing executive for radio stations WRVR and the Buzz. After opening the first location, the couple hopes to open five more locations in the next six years.

“We thought the lodge theme would have a great appeal here in the Mid-South, where so many people spend time outdoors,” Shawn says. “We wanted to create a casual dining concept that I hope will appeal to all kinds of people with a fantastic menu at a reasonable price.”

The Big Foot Lodge is open 11 a.m. to midnight Sunday through Thursday and until 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday.

The Big Foot Lodge, 97 S. Second St. (578-9800)

“This will be the biggest and best Buckley’s yet,” says co-owner Jeff Fioranelli of the Cordova location, the fourth Buckley’s since Fioranelli and his partner Kenneth Dick first opened a restaurant together 11 years ago. While the original Poplar location and Buckley’s downtown have a traditional atmosphere with warm rich wood, the partners are trying something new in Cordova. The restaurant, scheduled to open after July 4th, is brighter and more open with dividers offering more private dining for some of the tables.

“It’s going to be quite different,” says Fioranelli. “It’s going to be contemporary. We’re going to use this as a model for future locations. We’re looking for a style of our own. Our other locations are somewhat traditional. We just wanted to go with an updated look.”

They have also updated the children’s menu for a broader appeal to the family market and added a to-go entrance for takeout.

“We’re trying to make the place a combination,” says Fioranelli. “Buckley’s is often perceived as a date restaurant. We’re trying to make this Buckley’s a place that appeals to [daters] as well as families.”

Buckley’s Fine Filet Grill will be open seven days a week from 11 a.m. until 9:30 Sunday through Thursday and until 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Buckley’s Fine Filet Grill, 714 N. Germantown Parkway (756-1639)

After months of renovation and expansion, Miss Cordelia’s Grocery in Harbor Town is ready to unveil the changes with a grand opening celebration July 1st from 3 to 10 p.m. The day’s events will feature live jazz performances by Ron Shorr, Pete Vescovo, and Friends, a wine obstacle race, activities for the kids, and tours of the store. And, of course, there will be samples from the new dine-in deli, Miss Cordelia’s Table, from the expanded wine and beer section, and from many products offered in the neighborhood grocery. There will be door prizes ranging for $100 gift certificates to tickets to area events and gift baskets.

Miss Cordelia’s is open daily from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Cordelia’s Table kitchen is open until 9 p.m. n

Miss Cordelia’s Grocery, 737 Harbor Bend Road (526-4772)

Categories
News The Fly-By

ALL IN THE FAMILY

The National Hotline, a publication for Capital Hill news junkies recently juxtaposed two Ford-related articles: one from Memphis and one from Nashville. The Nashville Scene suggested that John Ford¹s arrest might be the best thing that could have happened for his Nephew Harold Ford Junior who is running for the U.S. Senate in 2006. According to the Scene, ³Thousands of voters now unfamiliar with Harold Jr. will discover that the real flesh-and-blood candidate is much different than what they¹d surmised based on what they know about his family.² The report from the CA quotes former state Senator John Ford asking, ³³Why did they make these arrests the day after Harold Jr. announced for the U.S. Senate?²

Just when Junior thinks he¹s out of the game for good, Uncle John pulls him right back in.

Plante: How It Looks

Categories
News The Fly-By

DECONSTRUCTION

The debate over renaming Forrest Park rages on with one side claiming that Confederate history is still history while the other shouts, “Hate, hate, hate, hate, hate.” The only equitable solution is to return to the days of Jim Crow with two separate entrances to the park. A gate at the southernmost entrance should read, “This-Guy-Was-My-Grandpa Park,” while the northernmost gate would be marked, “This-Guy-Lynched-My-Grandpa Park.” Nathan Bedford Forrest’s statue and tomb could easily be converted into a communal public toilet and water fountain. Eastern and western entrances might easily be marked, “Welcome to the Dirty South.”

Plante: How It Looks

Categories
News The Fly-By

LIFE IMITATES CHEECH & CHONG

The Commercial Appeal reported that a Memphis ice cream man lost his cool and felt “the heat from law enforcement” when he was arrested for selling push-ups, eskimo pies, and frosty bags of dope out of his ice cream truck. “This is a guy going down neighborhood streets who’s around and near children,” drug task force director David McGriff told the CA only moments before he turned into a giant lizard. ‹ Chris Davis

Plante: How It Looks

Categories
Music Record Reviews

Short Cuts

1988 — Blueprint (Rhymesayers): Ohio-based indie lifer multithreats like Kanye West, with a surer flow if fewer ideas. The over-arching one here is a tribute to hip-hop’s late ’80s pinnacle, which means Public Enemy samples, human beat-boxing, and a song inspired by Do the Right Thing‘s Radio Raheem. Hoping for the cultural impact of any of that is a pipe dream, though. And Blueprint understands the reality all too well: Here’s “another good album with bad distribution.” (“1988,” “Trouble on My Mind,” “Inner City Native Son”)

Grade: A-

This Right Here Is Buck 65 — Buck 65 (V2): A white guy from rural Canada with a gruff voice and literary sensibility, Buck 65 is hip-hop’s Leonard Cohen and only slightly more funky than that sounds. But if the beats on this U.S. major-label debut aren’t exactly club-worthy, the songcraft keeps you coming back, a dynamic the artist explains with the moral of his densely detailed, first-person shoeshiner’s tale ?Craftsmanship?: ?Craftsmanship is a quality that some lack/You have to give people a reason to come back.? A more substantial marriage of hip-hop and folk rock than the records that made Beck famous. (?Wicked Weird,? ?Cries a Girl,? ?Craftsmanship?)

Grade: A-

Be — Common (Geffen): Mainstream hip-hop’s ultimate boho wet dream delivers his most cohesive album ever thanks to producer Kanye West and a lean 11-track, 42-minute length. Even better than West’s soul-based grooves: an almost heroic interest in other people’s lives. (“Be,” “The Corner,” “Chi-City”)

Grade: A-

Black Dialogue — The Perceptionists (Definitive Jux): The presence of golden-age icons Guru (Gang Starr) and Humpty Hump (Digital Underground) on this indie-rap near-classic isn’t an act of nostalgia. It’s the embrace of a culture in exile. Fifteen years ago, Black Dialogue would have stood beside Public Enemy and Boogie Down Productions in the hip-hop mainstream. And if this Boston trio’s beats aren’t quite a match for BDP, much less Public Enemy’s Bomb Squad, the Perceptionists present a vision of hip-hop humanity that shames those cultural forebears as much as it does any present-day gangstas. KRS-ONE and Chuck D. could never have penned a love song as real as “Love Letters” or an ode to the workweek as knowing as “5 O’Clock.” Song of the Year candidate: “Career Finders,” job counseling for gangsta rappers. (Fave moment: “State your name. Mighty Dolla. [pause] HAHAHA.”) Album-opening line unlikely to be forgotten: “Hard tracks remind me of blacks with scarred backs/These are facts.” (“Let’s Move,” “Black Dialogue,” “Career Finders,” “People 4 Prez”)

Grade: A

Felt 2: A Tribute to Lisa Bonet — Slug & Murs (Rhymesayers): A summit meeting of sorts between two indie heavyweights, SoCal alt-rap Everyman Murs and Slug, the Midwest’s bard of complicated sex and regional color. Not really about the most transgressive Cosby kid, just as their first pairing didn’t have much to do with ostensible honoree Christina Ricci. Just a reflection of the loose spirit and simultaneously brainy and horn-dog attitude of the project: Not only are their lust objects left-of-center, their sex songs are as much about giving as receiving. (“Early Mornin’ Tony,” “Breaker Down Like a Shotgun,” “Woman Tonight,” “Gangster Ass Anthony”)

Grade: B+

Run the Road — Various Artists (Vice/679): This collection of British grime (essentially a hip-hop variant with echoes of techno and dancehall reggae) isn’t quite at the level of The Harder They Come or The Indestructible Beat of Soweto. But then again, grime isn’t quite golden-age reggae or South African mbaqanga either. Breakout scene stars Dizzee Rascal and the Streets are here, but it’s the names you’ve never heard of that stand out: rugged voices spitting hardscrabble tales over cheap, gritty beats. It doesn’t have the ease or command of the first wave of American gangsta rap. But it might have more energy and spirit. (?Let It Out? — Roll Deep; ?P’s and Q’s? — Kano; ?Cha Ching? — Lady Sovereign)

Grade: A-

Categories
Opinion Viewpoint

Homo No Mo

How does God make a gay man straight? In 1997, John Smid, the ex-gay director of Love in Action, a homosexual conversion center located in Memphis, tried to explain this mystery to a Memphis Flyer reporter:

“I’m looking at that wall and suddenly I say it’s blue,” Smid said, pointing to a yellow wall. “Someone else comes along and says, ‘No, it’s gold.’ But I want to believe that wall is blue. Then God comes along and He says, ‘You’re right, John, [that yellow wall] is blue.’ That’s the help I need. God can help me make that [yellow] wall blue.”

You don’t have to be a psychology major to recognize that Smid’s metaphor for gay conversion is a dictionary definition of delusional: “a false belief strongly held in spite of invalidating evidence.” Love in Action, which received media attention this week as the result of ongoing protests over its youth camp, purports to help its clients recognize that their crayons have been lying to them. Adding insult to irony, LIA literature states that homosexuality is “a distortion of God’s intent.” As are paint chips, apparently.

Smid has written extensively on the social and psychological conditions that make people gay. “In almost every homosexual relationship,” he writes in an essay titled, “God’s Original Intent,” “I see two roles: the person taking care of another, and the person being taken care of.

“Gay men and women find severe competition in the homosexual lifestyle,” Smid continues. “Wealth, age, physique, and social status are sought after, so the resulting ‘love’ and ‘acceptance’ are superficial. … In homosexual relationships, envy is a powerful motivating factor for two persons being drawn together. This type of envy begins with admiration, but gets mixed up with a person’s insecurity. The desire for someone else is fueled by an envious desire to control or possess that person for oneself. The same envy that feeds the relationship eventually destroys it.”

Although Love in Action claims its techniques are rooted in spiritual truths, Smid’s writings are a conflicting muddle of spurious psychological observations aimed at portraying homosexuals as mentally abnormal, a belief that “has been rejected by all the major health and mental health professions,” according to the American Psychological Association. The APA also states that “therapy directed specifically at changing sexual orientation is contraindicated, since it can provoke guilt and anxiety while having little or no potential for achieving changes in orientation.”

In various interviews, Smid has stated that his own homosexual urges began during childhood and intensified as puberty set in. Before that great morning when he finally woke up and smelled the KY, he engaged in numerous homosexual relationships, none of which lasted longer than three years.

In his 1997 interview with the Flyer, Smid, now heterosexually married, admitted that he still had gay fantasies. “Sure,” he said, “but they’re not major, they’re not predominant. … I’m much more conscious of what I’m thinking and feeling today than 20 years ago. I’m much more aware of what to relate to.” Sounds like he’s still not quite sure what color that wall is.

As you read this, there are teens in Memphis being forced to engage in activities that are psychologically damaging and scientifically without basis. According to many who have endured conversion therapy, these teens are being subjected to “shaming sessions” that might be classified as torture were they carried out by American troops on enemy combatants. According to Smid and company, this is all God’s work.

This is Love in Action.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Gourmand

Kudos to a couple of Memphis restaurateurs who have recently received national recognition.

Johnny Kirk, chef and co-owner of Stella, was featured as a “Rising Star of American Cuisine” by the James Beard Foundation, a nonprofit organization that recognizes talented chefs and food writers.

Kirk was honored with an invitation to prepare a dinner at the James Beard House, the late chef’s brownstone home in New York City, on June 2nd. His handpicked staff included Teddy Brantley of Grill 83, Michael Patrick of McEwen’s on Monroe, and Lee Craven of Madidi.

Frank Grisanti, owner of Frank Grisanti’s in the Embassy Suites and Bol á Pasta eateries, was reelected to a three-year term on the National Restaurant Association’s board of directors at the group’s annual tradeshow in Chicago, which was held May 21st through 24th. Through his position on the board, Grisanti, who started working in his family’s restaurants at age 13, keeps abreast of legislation and trends in demographics and marketing that affect the restaurant industry.

Grisanti has employed innovative marketing techniques through his Web site, FrankGrisanti.com, which allows people to schedule private events and choose catering menus on-line. He has also expanded his services downtown to provide restaurant service to the Hampton Inn.

The Medallion at the University of Memphis Holiday Inn will honor dads with a Father’s Day brunch Sunday, June 19th. Chef Edward Nowakowski will prepare a buffet feast fit for any king of the household.

Brunch will include a breakfast station with made-to-order omelets and waffles. Those with a heartier appetite can choose from an assortment of entrées, including prime rib, roast leg of lamb, country ham, and baked turkey breast. There will also be a special section with kid-friendly dishes. Reservations are required; call 678-5410. The cost is $24.95 for adults and $9.95 for kids ages 5 to 12.

Miss Cordelia’s in Harbor Town will host a “Beer-N-Brat Extravaganza” for Father’s Day beginning at 4 p.m. on June 19th. Wash down grilled bratwurst with some specialty beers. You can get the inside scoop on what you’re drinking from beer specialist Jeff Wilkerson. The cost is $5 per person.

The Medallion, 3700 Central (678-5410); Miss Cordelia’s, 737 Harbor Bend Rd. (526-4772)

Cozymel’s has taken the shooter in a whole new direction. “Pequeños” may be served in a shot glass, but it’s a dessert, not a potent potion.

“We feel that while a lot of people decline dessert, they secretly want a little something,” says Helen Leflar, a representative of the Dallas-based chain. “We decided to add the pequeños to our menu because these little tastes offer a variety of flavors without the addition of too many calories. The shot glasses are only two ounces, so you don’t overdo it even when you indulge yourself with dessert.”

Memphis’ Cozymel’s introduced the new line of bite-size desserts June 1st. “The response has been tremendous,” says general manager Dave Odham. “It’s something that no one else does. After a big lunch you don’t want to have dessert and then go back to work tired, but with this you can satisfy your sweet tooth without getting stuffed.”

There are 18 varieties of pequeños. Each day, five choices, such as mango-raspberry cake, margarita cheesecake, banana pudding, piña colada pie, or Kahlua chocolate fudge cake, will be prepared fresh and brought to the table on a tray. Diners can choose one for $1.99 or an assortment for $7.99.

Cozymel’s, 6450 Poplar (763-1202)

Now you can go to Café de France at night. Starting June 17th, the European-style café in Palladio Antique Mall will be open for dinner from 6 to 10 p.m. every Friday. Each week, owners Jeanell and Donnie Morris will create a selection of entrées, soups, salads, and desserts. There will also be live music on occasion. Guests are invited to bring their own wine. (Conveniently, Central Liquors is next door.)

The premiere dinner menu will feature lobster bisque, shrimp in spicy gazpacho, smoked pork loin, and roasted duck. Entrées are reasonably priced under $20. Customers can sign up for e-mail notices of the changing menu and featured entertainment. You can make reservations by calling 725-2212.

Café de France, 2169 Central (725-2212)