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Food & Drink Food Reviews

Crave Sweets Bake Shop

Crave Sweets Bake Shop owner Lana Hickey provided edible brew — pastries made with beer — to the recent Science of Beer event at the Museum of Science & History (MoSH).

And she joked, “Okay. I’m coming for the trophy this year.”

MoSH special events coordinator John Mullikin told her Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken came in number one at the event’s best food category for the past two years.

But not this year. Crave Sweets took the first place spot at the January 12th event.

“We did chocolate stout cake with rum butter cream and butterscotch beer brownies,” Hickey says. “We had people coming to our booth nonstop.”

Their molasses cookies were the only thing not made with beer. “We make our molasses cookies to be dipped in the beer.”

She was surprised at the response. Typically, “savory items,” not sweets, are paired with beer, she says. 

Hickey knows a thing or two about sweets. She’s the owner of two locations of Crave Sweets Bake Shop: one at 11615 Hwy. 70 in Arlington, Tennessee, and the other at 1730 South Germantown Road, Suite 123, near Moondance Grill.

Hickey began cooking in her hometown of Sumner, Mississippi. “I did a lot of cooking in my teenage years for my siblings. My mom worked multiple jobs.”

Hickey learned a lot from her mother and her grandmother. “And the rest is pretty much self-taught. It was Southern style food. Your typical pinto beans and cornbread and meat and threes.”

But that’s not what sparked her interest in cooking. In high school, she took a class on photographing food. She thought, “People get paid to create plates like this?”

Students in the school’s home economics class provided some of the food. Hickey, who describes herself as “more of an artsy person,” says seeing the food with her artist’s eye enabled her, through “presentation and colors,” to “create art and put it on a plate.” 

Before seeing the fancy plates of food, Hickey “didn’t know what fine dining looked like.”

Olive Garden was the closest she’d gotten to that type of food, she says.

Because of that class, Hickey enrolled at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts Atlanta, where she concentrated on French cuisine fine dining. “That’s actually my background. It wasn’t until after I graduated and got into the food industry that I started baking pastries.”

She made salads and desserts at the old Madison Hotel, now Hu. Hotel. “Our executive chef, Chris Windsor, had a list of items he would like for us to make, but he left it in our hands to come up with recipes. That kind of thing. So, I did get to be a little creative.”

One of her first original desserts was “bananas with white chocolate chips and caramel rolled up in a wonton wrapper, deep fried, and then rolled in cinnamon and sugar.”

Hickey stopped working at the hotel after she had her first child. But, when her daughter turned 3, Hickey returned to baking big time. “She got up on the counter. I’d Google a different recipe and we’d just kind of experiment on the weekend.

“I always cooked dinner every night for my family. When she and I would experiment, it would typically be baking. I jokingly told my husband, ‘I can’t get rusty. I have to stay on top of my skills ’cause I’m going to use them one day.’”

Her husband, Ben Hickey, is a chef who worked at the old Jarrett’s restaurant before becoming executive chef at Amerigo Italian Restaurant.

Lana made birthday cakes and pastries for Facebook friends before she and her husband opened Crave Coffee Bar and Bistro eight years ago in Arlington, Tennessee. “I always wanted to open a restaurant and a coffee shop.”

They served sandwiches and soups made from scratch as well as baked items, including homemade cinnamon rolls, blueberry biscuits, and Lana’s popular “sausage cheddar muffins.” 

She and her husband had a “huge following” at the restaurant, which they ran for eight years until closing it in October 2023.

In 2017, while they still owned the restaurant, Lana, who now had three children, decided to open a bakeshop. Running a bakeshop is easier than a restaurant, she says. “The hours are different. The holidays are different from a restaurant. I’m not there at night.”

She did the baking and her husband handled all the administrative duties, including finances and payroll.

Lana opened the Germantown location in October 2023. “We do all types of gourmet desserts, wedding cakes, custom cakes.”

Many of their recipes come from recipe books that belonged to Lana’s grandmother as well as grandmothers of her general managers. 

Their pastry menu changes every day, but they do keep “staple items,” including their “cheesecake brownies” and “strawberry crunch bars.” 

Their cheesecakes also are “never changing,” Lana says. “We recently started supplying those to Moondance. We do turtle cheesecake, red velvet, and traditional strawberry.”

And, “to be a little bit different,” she does a Biscoff or cookie butter cheesecake.

“The newest thing we have done is our banana pudding cake. Holy cow. It’s out of this world. It’s a banana butter cake with fresh bananas, white chocolate buttercream, and banana pudding filling. And then it has your vanilla wafer cookie crumble around the top and bottom edge.”

As for future plans, Hickey wants to open a third bakeshop location. She’s currently looking at Olive Branch, Mississippi, and Millington, Tennessee.

And opening another restaurant isn’t out of the question. It would be “fine dining French cuisine.”

And, yes, Hickey does take photos of her baked creations.

But, she adds, “It goes out our door so fast I mostly keep up with my photography skills with my children.” 

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Food & Drink Food Reviews

The Black Sheep Hot Sauces

The Black Sheep might sound like an unusual name for a hot sauce, but founder/creator Lawerence Russell has a good explanation.

“There’s hundreds and thousands of hot sauces,” he says. “The idea was, ‘This is not just another hot sauce.’ Black sheep stand out in the crowd. We do things differently.’”

Russell, 40, owner of Black Sheep Bottling Co., is a hot sauce lover. “And I love cooking food in a smoker. Smoking food. So anytime I would be smoking ribs, pork shoulders, [and had] the extra room on the smoker, I’d throw some peppers on there and make hot sauce out of it.”

He would “just slow smoke the peppers. Once the peppers are smoked, get them off the grill.”

Russell adds roasted garlic, sea salt, tomato, onion, and distilled white vinegar. He then blends everything together and brings it to a simmer.

Born in Abilene, Texas, Russell moved to Memphis when he was six months old. He was introduced to grilling by his dad on camping trips. “Just being around fire and that sort of thing. I’ve always loved the slow-cooking process. Keeping the fire right.”

And “being in Memphis around barbecue” didn’t hurt, either.

“I think I got my first barrel smoker when I was about 25. Up until then I just had a grill. I’d just grill with friends. Cooking out on football Sundays.”

Russell came up with his smoky hot sauce “kind of on a whim. Part of it was what peppers I could get at the store. Most hot sauces you get peppers, vinegar, water, and salt.”

He wanted something different. So, along with garlic and onions, he began smoking the peppers, which gave a “smoky flavor” to his hot sauce.

Russell decided to sell his hot sauce commercially about five years ago. He liked the idea of starting a small business. “Learn the process and go through everything.”

He also loved visiting the local farmers markets. “I always enjoyed being there. I thought if I would have a product, I could be a part of the farmers market.”

Russell got his business license, and began bottling his hot sauce at a commercial kitchen at Crosstown Concourse.

He brought his hot sauce to a farmers market for the first time in 2019. “I thought I’d sell maybe five or 10 bottles. I sold over 60. We were offering samples: ‘Give it a try.’ Everybody who tasted it bought it.”

Russell now has three hot sauce flavors. Original is great on “everything from eggs and sandwiches to grilled meats and veggies.”

On Fire, a hotter version of Original, is for people with a higher heat tolerance. He kicked up the heat by adding more habanero peppers.

Gone Green, which includes smoked poblano and serrano peppers, is similar to salsa verde, Russell says. “I love it on enchiladas and black beans and rice.”

Russell uses his hot sauce “two to three times a day. I’ll put it on my eggs in the morning for breakfast. If I’m having fried rice or a sandwich at lunch I’ll put it on. And then for dinner whatever I’m having — grilled steak or veggies — I’ll add it to that.”

Among others who love his hot sauce are the cooks at Dory restaurant.

David Krog, who, along with his wife, Amanda, owns Dory, says he serves Black Sheep hot sauces with the staff meals at the restaurant. “We put out the green and then the red with our family meal most every day,” he says.

Krog discovered the hot sauce when Russell gave him a bottle. Their children attend the same school. “I brought it to the restaurant and put it out and we all tasted the red and the green. The response from all of those cooks was unexpected for me. These guys were over the moon with this product. This guy’s hot sauce. I told him, ‘I’m in shock. All of my guys think this is an incredible product.’”

Black Sheep hot sauces are available at High Point Grocery, Triangle Meat Market, and Doc’s Wine, Spirits & More. 

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Food & Drink Food Reviews

Home Place Pastures Hosts Hill Country Boucherie

After a three-year break, the Hill Country Boucherie and Blues Picnic will take place September 3rd at Home Place Pastures in Como, Mississippi.

“Boucherie is a Cajun word,” says Home Place Pastures owner Marshall Bartlett. “I think it’s actually a French word that means ‘butcher shop’ or ‘meat store.’ It’s been adapted to mean sort of a celebration. Cajun Acadians brought it down to the Cajun country. They would harvest a pig and cook it right there and dedicate the bounty of the whole animal, add music to make it festive. Just a big party.

“We’re doing the same thing. There’s no active harvesting going on, but we’re challenging our chefs to utilize those culinary traditions, utilize the whole animal, like nose-to-tail eating.”

The restaurant teams are from “Memphis to New Orleans and everywhere in between.” The first boucherie featured one chef and drew about 100 people. The last event drew around 1,000. Guests can pay $110 for a dinner ticket, which includes the music, or just pay $10 for the music after the dinner.

Dinner guests meet by the lake and pick up a two-ounce portion of each chef’s dish buffet-style. “They’re all labeled. At the end you vote on your favorite, and we give out prizes to the chef that wins. Afterward, you walk next door to the farm shed, where we have live music.”

Food will be available there, too. “Burgers and bologna sandwiches and beer. We’re keeping it pretty simple, pretty country.”

A native of Como, Bartlett says his boucherie is based on a family tradition at the Home Place, his family farm. In the fall, they held dove-hunt parties with “good food, good people — and we celebrated music in this area.”

The boucherie also harkens back to the annual picnic hosted by the late Othar Turner on his farm near Sardis, Mississippi. “He’d cook the whole goat, sell sandwiches, tons of beer.”

Bartlett learned “how people in the South don’t waste anything. They cook every part of the animal and make a lot of innovations in this process — delicious innovations and discoveries.

“We just wanted to figure out if we could bring all of that together in one cool event.”

Bartlett, who now lives in Memphis, started Home Place Pastures eight years ago. It produces “pastured pork and grass-fed beef” on 500 acres of his family’s 1,800-acre farm.

He added “Pastures” to “Home Place,” Bartlett says, “because we are trying to convert the road crop operation to a full regenerative grazing operation.”

Bartlett moved back to Como three years after he graduated from Dartmouth. “I loved the farm so much ’cause I grew up there and it meant the world to me. I didn’t want to see the agricultural legacy of my family go by the wayside.”

He’s the fifth generation on the farm, which dates to about 1871.

The family grows cotton, corn, and soybeans, but Bartlett wanted to build a brand using “local, humane, regenerative meat production.

“You’re using animal impact and focusing on soil health to run a farm like an ecosystem rather than a linear high-production model of one product like corn and cotton. In the process of doing all that, you really enhance the health of our watershed and our environment in general to promote biodiversity and combat climate change.”

Home Place Pastures also includes the Farm Store. “It’s a really cool butcher shop. We serve lunch four days a week, Thursday through Sunday.

“We’ve got house-made bologna sandwiches and our grass-fed burger. The fried pork chop sandwich is outstanding. We make all the meat, obviously. It’s raised and processed right here, so it’s pretty unique.”

Memphians also can order Home Place Pastures meat via its website and have it delivered to their home.

For more information on the Hill Country Boucherie and Blues Picnic, go to homeplacepastures.com.

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Food & Drink Food Reviews

The Secret Smash Society

Shhhhh. It’s The Secret Smash Society.

It consists of three chefs: Harrison Downing, chef/sandwich artist at Greys Fine Cheese; Schuyler O’Brien, who is in culinary operations at City Silo Table + Pantry; and Cole Jeanes, chef/owner of Kinfolk restaurant.

They sell smash burgers at pop-ups, which are supposedly secret, but they’re not. They post the locations a few weeks in advance at The Secret Smash Society on Instagram. “The secret is where we’re going to be next,” Downing says.

The pop-ups usually are held at breweries or other places that don’t have a kitchen. They set up their flat-top and get to work.

A smash burger is just what it sounds like. “It’s a cheeseburger,” Jeanes says. “We do two patties, three ounces each. The smash comes from a burger press. You smash it until it’s completely flat. The idea is to get as much surface area as possible. It’s thin and crusty. It’s all about texture.”

“It’s a faster cook time,” Downing says. “The fat goes back in the meat ’cause it doesn’t have time to render out.”

Their beef is from Home Place Pastures in Como, Mississippi. “We use Martin’s potato roll,” Jeanes says. “It’s a four-inch roll.”

“We toast that,” Downing says. “It’s three-ounce patties with cheese, Kraft singles. Classy. It’s got to be Kraft singles.” The pickles have to be “on the bottom. I’m a big advocate of pickles, lettuce, tomato, and really finely shaved onion.”

They then add what they call their Daddy’s Sauce — “a burger sauce we make. Duke’s mayo-based sauce, ketchup, mustard, Worcestershire. It’s similar to a Big Mac sauce.”

Downing describes their smash burger as “a sophisticated Big Mac.” The hamburger comes with a bag of potato chips. But only one kind. “I’m a classic Lays man,” he says.

They don’t know of anybody else in Memphis doing a smash burger. “We just decided to hop into it.”

The first Secret Smash Society pop-up was at High Cotton Brewing Company. “We had a lot more people there than we expected,” Downing says. “And they were ready to go the second Cole threw that first piece of meat on the flat-top.

“It helped that we all cooked in kitchens before and were able to verbalize and not look up, keep our heads down, and keep going. Schuyler, being the experienced guy he is, talked us to where we were supposed to be. We would have been in rough waters if he wasn’t there.”

“I think we hit around 120 [burgers] ’cause we had a little meat left over,” Jeanes says. “We ran 120 to 150 in two hours, two patties each. My arm was pretty much numb by the time we got done.”

Using a burger press, they pressed “about 300 burger balls,” Downing says. “It’s a handheld piece of metal that’s flat. And you just make sure that it’s greased up.”

The first pop-up was a hit. “People really loved it. Within a week after, I had almost every brewery reaching out wanting us to do one there.”

They’d like to do pop-ups “ideally, once a month,” Downing says. They all have their own work schedules, but, he says, “I think we’re moving toward getting more on the books.”

The next pop-up will be September 4th at The Hill Country Boucherie at Home Place Pastures.

In addition to sharing a love of cooking, O’Brien and Jeanes are fathers of new baby boys. Downing and his wife are expecting a baby boy in October. “Right after our first one was when Luca was born,” says O’Brien, who refers to their shared experience of fatherhood and starting their smash burger pop-ups as “the battle of the babies. We’re learning how to do all this while we’re all living the dad life.”

“Schuyler went ahead and coined our new name as The Patty Daddies,” Downing says.

Find @thesecretsmashsociety on Instagram to book a pop-up.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink Food Reviews

Troy Davis’ Groovy Italian Ice

Italian ice is hot — as in, very popular.

Just ask Troy Davis. He recently rolled his Groovy Italian Ice food truck into Shelby Farms Park and set up shop.

“They sold me out twice,” he says.

Davis knew he was onto a good thing when he participated in the Soulful Food Truck Festival March 13th at Tiger Lane. “It did amazing. We sold out about 4:30 [p.m.]. We opened at noon.”

He got the idea to sell Italian ice about two years ago. “I wanted to bring something different to Memphis. You got a lot of people doing snow cones. And you got Baskin-Robbins and all that doing ice cream. So, I said, ‘I want to do Italian ice.’”

Italian ice isn’t the same as a snow cone, Davis says. “A snow cone is kind of crunchy. Italian ice is soft and smooth.”

He offers a variety of Italian ices. “I do eight flavors, but, eventually, I want to do at least 20.”

Davis currently sells blueberry, strawberry, cherry, pineapple, mango, cotton candy, and strawberry lemonade. “The most popular is strawberry lemonade. They’ll be gone in an hour.”

Davis, who also owns a lawn service, TD’s Lawn Care, discovered Italian ice during one of his jobs. He met a man selling it on his food truck. He told Davis, “You need to do it. It’s easier to scoop and there’s a bigger profit margin.”

A native of Nashville, Davis was adopted by his grandmother when he was 10 and moved to Memphis, where he began his lawn service. “I was cutting grass at 10 years old. Walking around the neighborhood cutting grass.

“I took it seriously about two or three years ago. I really sat down and started looking at the numbers and started realizing I could make a good profit over the years. I started buying better equipment to make the job easier for me.”

He originally was going to call his Italian ice business TD’s Italian Ice, but he thought, “I’ve already got TD’s Lawn Care.

“I was talking to my girl. She said, ‘You should do ‘Groovy Italian Ice.’”

“Groovy” conjured up “bright colors, happiness, peace, and love,” which Davis then used in his logo.

Strawberry lemonade is his favorite flavor. “I like strawberry and lemon mixed together. I like sour apple, too.”

He gets flavor requests from customers. “Sometimes people ask, ‘Can you mix it?’” Davis will then mix together flavors like blueberry, pineapple, and lemon.

Along with Italian ice, Davis also sells nachos and jumbo hot dogs on the food truck. And he sells his homemade cookies: strawberry lemonade, lemon, and regular strawberry. “I’m not necessarily a good cook. I’m still learning. Right now I’ve started baking cookies.”

His first batch of cookies he brought to the food truck sold out, Davis says. “The way we advertise our business is it’s unique and different. We were doing the cookies for a test run, and I saw that people really liked the cookies. So, I’m going to start making the cookies now. Really, I looked on YouTube at how to make the strawberry lemonade cookies.”

Davis plans to open an additional food truck. And he’d eventually like to open a brick-and-mortar business, where he’ll sell more food in addition to the Italian ice and cookies. “Like funnel cakes, chicken tenders, hamburgers, funnel fries, different kinds of carnival food.”

Grass-cutting time will hit around the end of March, so Davis’ sister, Ashley Randolph, will be helping with the food truck business.

And after a particularly grueling yard-cutting job in the blazing sun, Davis probably will quench his thirst with one of his Italian ices. And it’ll probably be strawberry lemonade.

To find out where the Groovy Italian Ice truck will be, go to @groovy_italianicellc on Instagram.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink Food Reviews

Josh McLane Brings his Sandwich Skills to South Point Grocery

If John Montagu was the Earl of Sandwich in the 1700s, Josh McLane could be the Sammie King in 2022.

McLane created all except one of the sandwiches at South Point Kitchen in the new South Point Grocery. These include The HEELS, named after the rock band featuring McLane and Brennan Whalen.

The sandwiches are selling like hotcakes. Since the store opened March 10th, they’ve been “slammed,” McLane says. “It’s turning out very well right out of the gate.”

McLane, who describes himself as “the menu-maker and prep guy,” says the current menu features nine sandwiches, as well as garlic bread. “I kept it small and moderately simple, so I knew we could put out a good-quality product every time. … I don’t swing too hard for the fences and set myself up to fail.”

McLane, who opened the Hi Tone kitchen, credits that venue and its owner Brian “Skinny” McCabe “for pulling any of this off.”

Patrick Kickham works with McLane at South Point Kitchen. “I got Patrick from the Hi Tone. That’s how I knew he was good. It’s as close to us going to the same college as I could get.”

In addition to The HEELS, made with spicy peanut butter, jalapeño strawberry jam, bacon, and provolone cheese, the menu includes Me Spinach, which features fresh spinach with garlic butter, provolone, French onions, and tomatoes. “It’s done on a griddle like a grilled cheese sandwich. We’ve been selling those like they’re going out of style.”

The Grinder, McLane’s go-to sandwich, includes salami, banana peppers, pesto, and coppa, which is “like salt-cured ham with a little bit of a bite to it.”

The Club is the sandwich McLane didn’t create. “I totally ripped off Subway,” he says. “They stopped making The Club, so I was like, ‘Well, that was one of my favorite sandwiches, so I’m going to make it.’ Turkey, roast beef, bacon, tomato, and Swiss. I covered it. It’s just a damn cover song.”

Everything except The Grinder and The Club were staples at the Hi Tone.

Asked how he created his sandwiches, McLane says, “I made lunch for me.”

His wife, Cara, a vegetarian, taste-tested his vegetarian sandwiches, and friends tried out the others. “I would make them for wrestling pay-per-views for my buddies.”

The sandwich shop will be doing specials in the future. “The best part about having a talented crew is letting them come up with specials,” McLane says. “If you have people full of creativity, you’d be stupid to not let them show that. My crew is awesome, and they’re all very talented.”

McLane began creating sandwiches as a child. “I made one. I thought I created it, but I was kind of ripping off other people. I did a Thanksgiving leftovers sandwich with dressing and turkey and cranberry sauce and mashed potatoes.”

Describing his sandwich-making process, McLane says, “I open the fridge and see what I have. My sandwich creating is very much like if you’re buzzed at 11 p.m. after you’ve been out and you’re hungry.”

But, “That’s not exactly how I do it.”

As for future items, McLane says. “I want to do a breakfast sandwich and call it Green Eggs and Ham.” That will feature pesto, two fried eggs, and country ham. “And it’s gangbusters, dude.”

A “lot of different specials” are in the works, but, McLane says, “I like paying attention to the present instead of worrying about the future.”

A stand-up comedian, McLane recorded an upcoming comedy album, Even If It’s Nothing. And he and Whalen recorded a new HEELS album, Pop Songs for a Dying Planet, which will be released later this year.

Whalen hasn’t yet visited South Point sandwich shop, McLane says. “Brennan is a good friend and is waiting until we’ve been open a week or two. Until we have our sea legs. He’s being nice.”

South Point Grocery is at 136 Webster Avenue; (901) 672-8225.

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Food & Drink Food Reviews

Zio Matto: “Here Comes the Gelato Man!”

Matteo Servente and Ryan Watt are peddling their gelato. Literally.

The Zio Matto Gelato owners recently bought a bicycle with an attached cart/cooler to help them sell their five-ounce gelato containers, which are already in area restaurants and markets.

“We had this idea of ‘How do we bring it to people as much as possible,’” says Servente. “The cart is such a visually iconic image in people’s minds.”

And, he says, “We could really use it to bring gelato to people for weddings, corporate events, whatever people might be interested in. It’s a great way to bring the gelato experience to your backyard or wherever you want it.”

Servente, who is from Torino, Italy, founded the business. “The name comes from my niece. When she was very little she couldn’t pronounce my name right. ‘Matteo’ was ‘Matto,’ which is ‘crazy,’ and ‘Zio’ is ‘uncle’ in Italian.”

Servente, a filmmaker and former Crosstown Arts resident artist, says Zio Matto is his main focus. “For many years I had been toying with the possibility of bringing some of these Italian treats to Memphis that I’m used to from growing up. Gelato became the obvious choice.”

He learned “the secret” to making gelato in Italy, and it seemed like the right treat to bring to “a place where the options of real, authentic gelato are not too many.”

Enter Watt, former Indie Memphis executive director. “Ryan and I have worked before in film and have known each other for years. We always had a good friendship and working relationship,” Servente says.

Before Indie Memphis, Watt owned a technology company at Emerge Memphis. “The challenge and excitement of growing something new is really what I get excited about,” he says.

“Gelato is not ice cream,” Servente explains. “It’s a part of the same family, but it’s a less fat version of ice cream. The texture is much silkier in ours and a little bit denser as opposed to the cold, almost icy, texture of ice cream. So, it kind of packs more flavor.

“As far as the ingredients go, there’s nothing really revolutionary in the way we make it. It’s more like the process of making it that makes us stand out. We don’t use the gelato machines that mass produce gelato. We just use kitchen mixers and our hands to make it and mix all the ingredients together. ‘Less is more’ is really what applies perfectly to the food-making process in Italy.”

Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizza was the first restaurant to carry their gelato. “When the pandemic hit and they had to sort of readjust a little bit of their model, our pre-packaged containers were perfect.”

They’re now up to 15 locations, including High Point Grocery, Cordelia’s Market, Lucchesi’s Ravioli & Pasta Company, Ciao Bella Italian Grill, and David Grisanti’s Italian Restaurant. It’s available on Saturdays at the Downtown and Cooper-Young farmers markets.

Zio Matto’s six flavors include stracciatella. “A very popular flavor for gelato. The way we do it is Italian sweet cream with chocolate chips in it.”

The new bicycle/cart is ready to roll. “It’s not the easiest thing to ride,” Watt admits. “It’s nice to roll up and maybe park and serve gelato.”

But, he says, “Right now, we’re a pretty small team. Our plan is to use [the bicycle] for bookings. You may see it out and about so we can get the word out. Maybe it will become a league of bikes, and we’ll have to hire riders, people that can run the carts for us.”

And, like any “Good Humor Man” vehicle, Zio Matto’s bicycle comes with the proper accessory: “It does have a little bell,” Servente says.

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Food & Drink Food Reviews

Loaf Food Truck is Kale Carm’s Bread and Butter

Loaf isn’t your average slice of food truck.

“Our style of cuisine I would describe as New American with a focus on Memphis and deep South dishes,” says Loaf chef/co-owner Kale Carm. “Also, inspiration from a lot of influences and ingredients from immigrant communities in Memphis.”

Loaf, which opened about two months ago behind First Congregational Church at 1000 Cooper Street, features a variety of unique offerings, including Carm’s take on an East African collard greens dish he learned how to make in Kenya. “It’s collard greens cut thin and quickly braised. It’s not like our collard greens. It’s soft, but a little body to it.” Instead of ham hocks, Carm uses chile ancho, a dried chili. “It has a smoky, umami flavor.”

The Tomato Tomate, a seasonal item, is “a play on that classic Southern tomato sandwich … just a slice of fresh tomato with mayonnaise and salt and pepper. But instead of pepper, it’s based on Oaxacan mole negro. I take mole sauce, dehydrate it, and grind it into a powder.” He uses McCormick mayo. “It’s the No. 1 mayonnaise you find in Mexican and Central American homes.”

Carm was a “very adventurous” eater growing up in Memphis, but after trying sushi for the first time at age 10, he says he “got into eating the most far-out things I could find.”

He began cooking professionally five years ago to earn money for a trip to Southeast Asia. He asked his friends who own Lamplighter Lounge, “Can I bring some food up here and sell it on Friday night?”

He made pupusas, which are “like a Central American pancake but made with corn masa instead of flour and usually stuffed with beans and cheese and pan-fried.”

He also made Thai curries. “I was going to Thailand and wanted to get a feel for the food I was about to eat.”

Carm took notes in restaurants in Thailand, Laos, Taiwan, Malaysia, and Singapore on his trip. “I was sitting as close to the kitchen as I could, watching everything and figuring out how I could recreate it.”

Back in Memphis, Carm started a pop-up called Round Table Food at Lamplighter and Launch Process Coffee.  “I would pick a different style of cuisine that we didn’t have in Memphis. Like, I did Japanese home cooking.”

In 2019, Carm moved to Austin, Texas, where he worked as a cook at Uchi, a fine dining Japanese restaurant, until he was furloughed after the pandemic hit.

Back in Memphis, he began cooking for First Congo Food Justice Program, which provides home-cooked meals to those in need. Carm purchased a food truck to continue preparing food while the church’s commercial kitchen was under renovation.

The name fits perfectly. “Our truck is a renovated Airstream. It looks like a big loaf.” And, Carm says, “I am a bit of a loaf. I’m a little lazy.”

He and his business partner Nick Riley operate the truck. “Our tagline is ‘Modern Memphis Cuisine.’ I really want to give back to … and honor Memphis as much as I can.”

Loaf offers a range of exotic fare, but the Memphis Honey Gold fried chicken sandwich — a thigh dipped in honey gold sauce — is the most popular item. “Memphis is known as a city for barbecue, but Memphis has the highest-quality chicken wings. Honey gold sauce is a very Memphis-y chicken wing thing, so I translated that to our honey gold sandwich.”

Carm once took the sauce for granted. “I didn’t realize it was a Memphis thing until I moved to Texas and I couldn’t get it anywhere.”

Honey gold sauce is “something pretty much every wing shop in Memphis has.” And, Carm says, “It just seems very Memphis to me.”  

To see Loaf’s menu, go to eat.loaf on Instagram.

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Food & Drink Food Reviews

On the Yacht … Rocks

I am not even sure how I wound up sailing in a North American Championship regatta, but there I was — after a brutal day of races that soaked me outside and, after what I can only describe as a Lake Erie bidet, inside as well. We drifted back to the hosting yacht club where a pleasant but serious fellow with a phone in one hand was pointing at the darkening squall line with the other. “Glad you’re back,” he said. “The radar says you’ve got about 30 minutes before that hits.” Well, if the previous three hours were the longest in my life, that “30 minutes” was the shortest; about seven minutes later, we had to tie up and abandon the boat to its fate.

Sailing is one of those sports that, were it not so damned expensive, you’d ask yourself amid the alternating soaking cold and the wicked heat: “Screw waterboarding, let’s send them sailing!” And, like other expensive hobbies such as duck hunting, golf, or almost flying into space, sailing tends to turn into a lifestyle choice. Which raises the age-old question: What do you do with a drunken sailor? Or a whole dock of wet sailors who’ve recently left their expensive lifestyle choices to the whims of Neptune or some watery goddess who feels compelled to torment sailors?

You feed them rum. It’s the drink of island paradises, prison colonies, and drunken sailors. The sailors’ rum is Mount Gay from Barbados, and it’s hard to go wrong. It tastes like, well, what rum is supposed to taste like. The company gives out just enough of its red baseball caps at regattas to make them the sought-after sailing accessory. If you’re really hep, the hat will be terminally sun damaged.

Pusser’s Rum is trying to break into the market by sponsoring regattas and making sure that the hosting yacht clubs are slinging a lot of discounted product. I’ve reviewed Pusser’s Gunpowder Proof rum here before, which tasted to me like rum-flavored moonshine. Perhaps it wounded me on some emotional level because its standard expression had hints of the same. Still, as I crowded into the yacht club with the boat owners grimly searching for their insurance agent’s phone number, they were practically giving the stuff away in nifty little tin mugs. It was called a Pusser’s Painkiller, and depending on how much pain you are trying to kill, you mix 2, 3, or 4 ounces of Pusser’s with 4 ounces of pineapple juice, 1 ounce of cream of coconut, 1 ounce orange juice, serve on the rocks, and grate with nutmeg.

I’m not really a tropical drinks kind of guy, but this was actually very good. If you are a tropical drinks sort or an avid Jimmy Buffet fan, the Painkiller is likely right up your alley, so give it a whirl while it’s still hot. For me, it killed the “moonshine” nose of Pusser’s but raised the question: If you have to drown it in fruit juice and coconut cream to get it down, why drink it at all? Well, in this case, some young thing in a regatta shirt just handed it to me, and sometimes that’s reason enough.

The squall passed almost as quickly as it came, leaving the boat dirty but unharmed. I started sailing about 10 years ago when writing a story on the Delta Sailing Association down in Hernando. I was told that I really couldn’t do the story justice unless I learned how to sail. In truth, they were really just short of crew. At any rate, a decade on and I’m up in Cleveland at the North American Championship, vividly not qualifying for the Worlds. Maybe all this inland sailing divorces you from old naval traditions because the crew I learned to sail with all drink martinis.

With gin. And they are very adamant about this.

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Food & Drink Food Reviews

Justin Fox Burks and Amy Lawrence Release Vegetarian Cooking for Two

Being stuck at home for months, Justin Fox Burks and his wife Amy Lawrence turned to the pan during the pandemic. Instead of vegetating, they wrote a cookbook about preparing vegetarian meals for two.

“We were cooking vegetarian meals for two, morning, noon, and night,” Lawrence says. “We weren’t going out to eat or having anybody over. So, the publisher came to us and we agreed on this idea. And it turns out it’s a really good idea. People are responding.”

Vegetarian Cooking for Two: 80 Perfectly Portioned Recipes for Healthy Eating is the couple’s fourth cookbook. “Simple” is what they went for, Burks says. “There’s nothing that takes a particular set of skills ahead of time. You’re not going to have to study up on chiffonade or brunoise your red peppers. It comes together very quickly.”

Also, he says, “We used some prepared ingredients like salsas and sauces, so you don’t think you’re making everything from scratch. One of my favorites we do is a sheet pan stir-fry with peanut sauce, and it uses any vegetables you have on hand.

“Instead of cooking it in a wok, which has you sort of manning the wok the whole time, you just spread it out on a sheet pan and stick it in the oven for 20 minutes. It’s crispier. The flavor gets concentrated and you don’t end up with a watery stir-fry like a lot of people do when they try and stir-fry at home.”

Spiked Hot Cocoa Tiramisu is one of Lawrence’s favorites. “You use marscapone cheese and whipped cream,” she says. “We put a quarter-cup of bourbon in it. We like Blue Note Bourbon. We put hot cocoa mix in it and dark chocolate chips and mini marshmallows on top.”

The book is divided into breakfast and brunch, salads and handhelds, soups and stews, hearty mains, and desserts. “The first chapter is directions on how to shop,” Burks says. “How to think about cooking every day for two.”

They instruct the reader on “how to go to the grocery store and shop for the smaller can of coconut milk or a jar of salsa that will fit this recipe, so you don’t end up with a bunch of odds and ends in your refrigerator.

“If you’re a small household, you don’t want to have to cook for four or six people and have your freezer fill up with a bunch of the same food. Or, God forbid, waste the food.”

Their goal was to come up with a recipe a day. “It takes me a lot longer to put an idea for a recipe together than Justin,” Lawrence says. “He’s pretty quick. His always seems to turn out the first time. I have to give it a few tries.”

It took a few tries to get their chickpea chicken sandwich patties together, Burks says. “Since we’re a little more health-conscious, we didn’t want to deep-fry anything, which is how you get things crispy. We figured out how to shallow-fry these chickpea patties, and they are fantastic.”

Too many cooks might spoil the broth, but Burks says, “We’re a great team. We both know our strengths. It’s not a hard and fast rule, but I’m pretty good with the savory stuff and she’s pretty good with the sweet stuff and salads.”

Burks and Lawrence became vegetarians when they were 12 years old. After getting a hamburger at a dairy bar, Burks decided meat wasn’t for him anymore. “The idea was out there that an animal was a living thing,” he says. “I’d done some reading and research. It was just at that moment it all kind of hit me.”

“It seems less cruel to avoid meat,” says Lawrence, who already cared about the environment when she was 12.

Some people have a misconception about vegetarians, Burks says. “People think if you’re a vegetarian you’re going to be this scrawny little guy. Anybody who’s seen me, I’m kind of a big dude. I bike. I run. I’ve done five marathons.”

Burks goes by “The Chubby Vegetarian” in his books and on social media. “Whenever I say I’m a vegetarian, people say, ‘Really?’”  

Visit thechubbyvegetarian.com for more information.