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On the Fly: Week of 03/01/24

A Bite of Memphis
TheatreWorks at ​The Evergreen
Friday, March 1, 7:30 p.m. | Saturday, March 2, 7:30 p.m. | Sunday, March 3, 2 p.m.
Good enough to eat? Maybe? I guess if you’re the type to eat words. Eat your words? Is that the saying? Uh, doesn’t matter. We’re talking about Lone Tree Live’s  A Bite of Memphis, which you will want to dig into — metaphorically, obviously. This is a theatrical experience dramatizing interviews with chefs, restaurateurs, home cooks, food connoisseurs, and anyone who shares a passion for cooking and eating in Memphis. It’s a “journalistic form of dramatic storytelling,” and we at the Flyer support journalism in all forms and so should you. This weekend is your last chance to see the show, so purchase tickets ($20) here. Performances are Friday and Saturday at 7:30 p.m., and Sunday at 2 p.m.

Memphis Whiskey Warmer Festival
The Kent
Friday, March 1, 6-9 p.m.
Whiskey lovers, bundle up for an evening of live music, good food, and exceptional spirits at Memphis Whiskey Warmer, where you can sample premier whiskey, bourbon, and scotch. This event benefits Volunteer Memphis, so every sip counts. Purchase tickets here. General admission tickets ($59) include 15 whiskey tastings and access to all areas of the event, and VIP tickets get you early access to the event, plus access to premium, rare, and experimental whiskey offerings and complimentary light bites. 

19th Annual Tree Planting 
Wolf River Conservancy
Saturday, March 2, 10 a.m.-noon
I am the Lorax, and I speak for the trees, and the trees want to be planted. Help the Wolf River Conservancy plant over 1,000 native trees along Leath Bayou in New Chicago Park. Sign up to volunteer here.

Painting on the River Series: Women’s History Month
Cossitt Library
Saturday, March 2, noon
You’ve heard of rolling on the river, but painting on the river? Each week in March, Cossitt Library is hosting a painting class on the river with a different artist. First up is Sarai Payne. All materials are provided. Register for the event here.

Grind City’s Fermented Reality Limited-Release Party
Grind City Brewery
Saturday, March 2, noon-10 p.m.
This ain’t a 100 bottles of beer situation. No, this is eight beers. Limited beers. Released at noon and available on Saturday while supplies last. Once the beer is gone, it’s gone foreverrrrrrr. This free, family- and pet-friendly event will be filled with food, live music by Charvey Mac and Walt Phelan Band, games, and much more. (P.S. The next day Grind City is hosting the Grind City Music Festival at South Main Sounds with Raneem Imam performing. More info here.)

Dog Beauty Pageant
Crosstown Brewing Company
Saturday, March 2, 1-3 p.m.

You look like a dog. A very cute dog. A dog who could win the Dog Beauty Pageant this weekend. So bring your good boys and girls and help them get the recognition they deserve. Prizes will be offered for “best dressed,” “cutest puppy,” “best rescue story,” and “best overall dog.” Chi Phi food truck will be slinging dogs (not, like, the puppy dogs we’re assuming; we’re assuming hot dogs, etc.) and Phillies to eat. The Bluff City Backsliders will be playing from 3-6 p.m.

Pete Davidson
Minglewood Hall
Saturday, March 2, 6 p.m. & 8:30 p.m.
Pete Davidson of SNL and celebrity boyfriend fame is bringing his Wellness Check tour to Memphis’ Minglewood Hall for two shows. This event will be a phone-free experience. Purchase tickets ($60-$105) in advance here.

Awadagin Pratt: Piano Prowess
Germantown Performing Arts Center
Saturday, March 2, 7:30 p.m.
Hey! According to Rent, there are 525,600 minutes in a typical calendar year, but on leap years, you get 527,040 minutes. That means an extra 1,440 minutes this year. So what to do, what to do? Well, maybe you could go see Awadagin Pratt in performance at GPAC as he gives the Memphis premiere of Jesse Montogmery’s Grammy-winning Rounds, co-commissioned by Iris Collective and inspired by the epic poem “Four Quartets” by T.S. Eliot. Tickets ($45-$70) for the show can be purchased here. On Sunday at 3 p.m. at University of Memphis’ Harris Hall, Pratt will also screen his film Awadagin Pratt: Black in America, which reveals his climb to fame and is a candid conversation about what it is like to be a person of color in the United States. Pratt will play for the audience, and a panel discussion will follow the film. Tickets for the event are pay-what-you-can and can be purchased here.

Boogie Nights!: A ’70s Disco Funk Dance Party
Black Lodge
Saturday, March 2, 10 p.m.
Throw on your best polyester suit, dance dress, big hair, bellbottoms, or any ’70s digs, and get lost in time to some of the best ’70s disco tracks, club hits, dance soul, and funk beats ever made. Expect videos, commercials, clips, and other ’70s pop culture eye candy on the screens all night by Lodge VJ and co-owner Queen Bea Arthur and lighting by Klamental. $10. 18+.

Science Cafe
Abe Goodman Golf Clubhouse
Tuesday, March 5, 5:30 p.m 
Wind down from the workday by learning something new over drinks. Join Overton Park Conservancy for a happy hour with guest speakers who will share unique perspectives from their corners of the scientific world. This month’s topic is the Hydrogeology of the Memphis Sand Aquifer with Sarah Houston and Scott Schoefernacker of Protect Our Aquifer, as they speak on balancing aging infrastructure, explosive growth, and sustainability. Be ready to learn, ask questions, and celebrate the Memphis Sand Aquifer in honor of World Water Day in 2024. Register here.  $5/recommended donation.

There’s always something happening in Memphis. See a full calendar of events here.

Submit events here or by emailing calendar@memphisflyer.com.



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News News Blog News Feature

Local Gun Safety Advocate Vocalizes Support for School Curriculum Bill

As the controversial bill requiring gun safety courses to be taught in Tennessee schools moves through the legislature, local voices are voicing their support.

Earlier this month Republican legislation, HB 2882, was introduced and would require gun safety curriculum to be added to the existing Tennessee Schools Against Violence in Education (SAVE) Act. Parents would not be able to opt their child out of training, and students could begin learning in grades as early as pre-K.

When the bill was announced, many opposed the proposal as it “accepts gun violence as school as a new normal,” while others believe it addresses the reality of how many children are actually exposed to guns. 

Gun safety advocate Bennie Cobb said a lot has changed in terms of gun exposure from when he was growing up. As a child, Cobb said he knew of people who had guns, but they weren’t “as readily available” as they are now.

“I had very limited exposure to guns until I got into law enforcement,” Cobb said. “I was commander of the SWAT team, I taught training academy, and I had the honor of attending the FBI National Academy in Quantico. In my law enforcement experience I never saw guns being displayed or possessed to the extent that they are now.”

Cobb says this exposure has led to a lot of gun violence in the city; however, he believes guns themselves are not the issue, but the lack of education and “respect for the gun” is.

“We passed the permitless carry process in Tennessee several years ago and people are walking around with guns who don’t have any understanding, knowledge, and education about the safe handling of guns,” said Cobb. “Law enforcement is doing the best that they can with the resources that they have as far as violent crimes.”

After retiring from the Shelby County Sheriff’s Office, Bennie Cobb opened Eagle Eye Security and Training Services, where he focuses on handgun training, self defense, and more. Through his business, Cobb has trained police officers and other members of law enforcement as well as local citizens.

“We also train young people in gun safety,” Cobb said. “We emphasize safe storage which is gun locks and safes to keep young people from getting their hands on guns. What we do is we try to educate as many people as we can, starting with the children.”

Cobb’s involvement with gun organizations such as the National Rifle Association (NRA) led him to finding out about the National African American Gun Association (NAAGA). This resulted in Cobb founding 901 Brothers And Sisters Keepers, the NAAGA chapter in Memphis, who are supporters of HB 2882.

Photo: Bennie Cobb

Prior to founding the NAAGA chapter in Memphis, Cobb’s business focused on teaching young people about gun safety, which he funded out of his own pocket, as he had a vested interest as a father and a grandfather that future generations would have increased knowledge and education about gun safety and the dangers guns pose.

While Cobb emphasizes the importance of teaching gun safety to children, he also offers the same training to adults, as their involvement plays a large role as well. He said since kids can’t buy guns, they are often exposed to a gun that was left unattended by a family member.

“Most of them in [our training] had no knowledge about guns,” said Cobb. “This is more important now than ever before. We’re permitless carry, walking around with semi-automatic rifles. The weapon of choice is an AR-15 or AK-47 when the rap music used to be about glocks.”

Cobb said gun education is crucial due to the different “variables” that are available now. He said gun safety curriculum in schools should not be a “one-time deal” but a continuing thing from grade to grade.

“If you’re educating and introducing all these young people in the city and school system to gun education, gun safety, respecting the gun, not shooting anybody, it’s going to have an effect on those young people as they get older, and continuing education will help reduce the same gun violence that we’re seeing in the streets now.”

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News News Blog News Feature

Developers, Seeking to Gain from BlueOval City Building Boom, Push for Weaker Wetland Rules

A high-stakes battle over the future of Tennessee’s wetlands has been playing out behind closed doors in recent weeks, with developers and environmental groups furiously lobbying on opposite sides of a bill to drastically roll back regulations.

The bill by Rep. Kevin Vaughan (R-Collierville) would limit state oversight over more than 430,000 acres of Tennessee wetlands. That’s more than half of the state’s critical ecosystems, which serve as a bulwark against floods and droughts, replenish aquifers and are prized by hunters, anglers and nature lovers.

Environmental groups warn that the proposed bill, if enacted by the General Assembly and signed into law by Gov. Bill Lee, could inflict irreparable harm on future generations.

“The proposed legislation favors the interests of developers over the safety of future flood victims and pocketbooks of Tennessee taxpayers,” said George Nolan, senior attorney and director of the Southern Environmental Law Center in Tennessee.

“Once a developer fills and paves over a wetland, it is gone forever. This is no time to repeal laws that have protected our wetlands for the last 50 years,” he said.

Vaughan called the measure an overdue check on red tape that costs developers time and money; he has denied weakened wetland regulation could lead to increased flooding.

The proposed legislation favors the interests of developers over the safety of future flood victims and pocketbooks of Tennessee taxpayers.

– George Nolan, Southern Environmental Law Center

He has accused state environmental regulators of “bureaucratic overreach” and “unnecessary inflation on the cost of construction” and pointed to the urgent need for relief from regulation given a building boom in the region he represents, where a new Ford plant is going up in Stanton just 40 miles from the offices of Township Properties, Vaughan’s real estate and development company.

“My district is one that is different from a lot of other people’s districts. We’re in the path of growth,” Vaughan told lawmakers.

Lee’s office did not respond to a question about whether he supports the bill.

West Tennessee Where Wetlands Abound.

There is perhaps nowhere else in the state where tensions between fast-tracking development and protecting wetlands are higher than West Tennessee.

BlueOval City, Ford Motor Co.’s $5.6 billion electric truck plant, has spurred a land rush in the region, with developers buying up properties, designing subdivisions and erecting apartment complexes at a fast clip ahead of its 2025 planned opening.

Restaurants, hotels, and grocery stores are springing up to accommodate an expected 11 percent increase in population by 2045 in the 21-county region surrounding the plant — making it the fastest-growing area in Tennessee.

West Tennessee counties also have some of the largest shares of wetlands that would lose protections under Vaughan’s bill.

The bill targets so-called “isolated wetlands” that have no obvious surface connection to a river or lake. Wetlands, however, rarely stand alone, often containing hidden underground connections to aquifers or waterways.

The 10 Tennessee counties with the largest share of at-risk “isolated” wetlands are located in West Tennessee, within commuting distance of the Ford plant.

Haywood County, where the plant is located, has more than 57,319 acres of wetlands that could lose protections under Vaughan’s bill — nearly 17 percent of all land area in the county, according to 2019 data from the U.S. Fish and Wildlife National Wetlands Inventory compiled by the Southern Environmental Law Center.

In Shelby County, where Vaughan is based, 35,482 wetland acres are at risk — 7 percent of the county’s total land area.

The region also lies atop the Memphis Sand Aquifer, the primary water supply for urban and rural communities, and farmers in west Tennessee. Wetlands serve to recharge and filter water that supplies the aquifer.

“This is such a unique moment in west Tennessee history,” said Sarah Houston, executive director of the Memphis advocacy group Protect Our Aquifers, noting projected growth data that shows population increases of 200,000 or more in the next two decades.

“But when you’re removing protections for wetlands, you’re cutting out that deep recharge potential for all the water supply West Tennessee relies on,” she said.

Vaughn’s business among those to profit from building boom.

Developers who wish to fill in, build on or otherwise disturb wetlands must first apply for a permit from the Tennessee Department of Environment and Conservation, or TDEC, which can approve or reject the plans.

The process can prove costly; companies must hire lawyers, hydrologists and other experts before filing a permit. And if they get one, TDEC can require developers to pay expensive mitigation fees for disturbing wetlands — potentially adding tens- or hundreds-of-thousands of dollars to construction costs. The fees are used to preserve wetlands elsewhere, balancing out what is lost by a single project. The process can add months, or more, to construction timelines.

Vaughan has spoken openly about ongoing frustrations in his own business to comply with the state rules, describing TDEC regulators as overzealous in defining marshy or muddy lands that are created by tractor ruts or runoff as wetlands.

State records show that Vaughan as recently as December received state notice that a project he is spearheading contains two wetlands: one at 1.42 acres and another at 1.51 acres.

Given the presence of wetlands, “any alterations to jurisdictional streams, wetlands, or open water features may only be performed under coverage of, and conformance to, a valid aquatic resource alteration permit,” the Dec. 8 letter from TDEC to Vaughan said.

The project, a 130-acre site of the proposed new headquarters for Thompson Machinery, Vaughan’s client, will have to incur costly remediation fees should its permit to build atop wetlands be approved by TDEC.

It’s one of multiple development projects that Vaughan has been affiliated with that have butted into TDEC wetland regulations in recent years.

PAC money flows in from west Tennessee.

Vaughan also represented Memphis-based Crews Development in 2019 when the company received a notice of violation for draining and filling in a wetland without permission.

Vaughan did not respond to questions from the Lookout, including whether his sponsorship of the bill presents a conflict of interest.

He is not alone among developers in the region who are seeking favorable legislation during a period of rapid growth.

West Tennessee construction companies and real estate firms have spent big on a new political action committee formed in 2022 to influence legislative policy. The little-known Build Tennessee PAC spent $186,000 in the six months before the start of this year’s legislative session, the fourth largest spender over that period, according to campaign finance records analyzed by the Lookout.

Keith Grant, a  prominent Collierville developer listed as Build Tennessee’s contact, did not respond to a request for comment.

Read more: Connecting the dots between Tenn. home builders and bill to deregulate construction on wetlands 

The measure also has gained the backing of influential statewide groups, including the Tennessee Farm Bureau, the Home Builders Association of Tennessee, Associated Builders and Contractors and the Tennessee Chamber of Commerce.

Bradley Jackson, president and CEO of the Tennessee Chamber of Commerce, said last week the legislation — which Vaughan recently amended to make distinctions between different types of wetlands — represents a fair and balanced approach.

Jackson said the chamber convened a working group of five trade organizations last summer that concluded Tennessee’s wetland regulations need adjustment. “We feel this deal strikes a really good middle group. It provides the business community with consistency and certainty. We can ensure we’re being compliant,” Jackson said.

Vaughan offers ‘compromise’ amendment; environmental groups say it leaves wetlands unprotected.

The legislation is scheduled to be heard Wednesday in the Agriculture and Natural Resources Committee, with an amendendment that makes distinctions between wetlands.

The amendment would allow developers to build on “low-quality” wetlands and up to four acres of “moderate” isolated wetlands without seeking state permission.

Environmental groups say the proposal continues to place large pieces of Tennessee wetlands at risk.

Rep. Kevin Vaughan, R-Collierville. (Photo: John Partipilo)

“Vaughan’s current amendment is not a compromise as it requires no mitigation for low-quality wetlands regardless of size and no mitigation for large swaths of moderate-quality wetlands,” Grace Stranch, chief executive officer of the Harpeth Conservancy said. “The development resulting from those huge carveouts will likely cause increased flooding, a decline in water quality, higher water bills, and aquifer recharge problems.”

The measure has also drawn pushback from the Tennessee Department of Environment and Conservation and the Tennessee Emergency Management Agency.

“We at TDEC fear the proposal could result in greater back-end costs,” Gregory Young, the agency’s deputy commissioner, told lawmakers earlier this month.

Alex Pellom, chief of staff for the Tennessee Emergency Management Agency, cautioned the bill could lead to more flooding; the state has already suffered its wettest years in history since 2019, leading to devastating floods, billions of dollars in property damage and loss of life.

“We continue to work with the sponsor to discuss potential solutions,” Eric Ward, a TDEC spokesperson, said last week.

A Supreme Court decision limits federal oversight.

Vaughan’s bill was introduced on the heels of a controversial U.S. Supreme Court decision last year that narrowed federal protections of wetlands, leaving it up to states to set their own rules.

The court concluded that only wetlands that have a surface water connection to rivers, lakes and oceans fall under federal oversight and are subject to Clean Water Act regulations.

There is little debate in the stormwater community about the value of wetlands as key instruments of maintaining water quality and mitigating damaging flooding.

– Aaron Rogge, Tennessee Storm Water Association

The majority of Tennessee’s wetlands — 432,850 out of  the state’s 787,000 acres of wetlands in the state — do not have a surface connection to a water source, according to TDEC. It is these wetlands Vaughan is seeking to remove from state oversight and protection.

“This is going to be a major change to the way that the state manages its water resources, and likely one that we’ll look back on as a product of our current political climate,” said Aaron Rogge, a Nashville-based civil engineer who is also the current president of the Tennessee Stormwater Association.

“There is little debate in the stormwater community about the value of wetlands as key instruments of maintaining water quality and mitigating damaging flooding; in fact, many cities and counties choose to actively construct wetlands to manage their runoff,” he said.

Tennessee is not alone in targeting wetland regulation after the high court’s decision, according to Jim Murphy, director of legal advocacy for the National Wildlife Federation.

Legislatures in Illinois, New Mexico, Arizona and Colorado are considering expanding wetland protections in light of the court’s decision while Indiana is among states considering a developer-backed bill similar to Vaughan’s.

“It’s a very fluid situation,” Murphy said. “In a lot of ways, it mirrors the politics of a state. But as you get down to state-level realities of what’s being lost, people are seeing what unregulated development means and often that means that their special places get paved over.”

Reporter Adam Friedman contributed to this story.

Tennessee Lookout is part of States Newsroom, a nonprofit news network supported by grants and a coalition of donors as a 501c(3) public charity. Tennessee Lookout maintains editorial independence. Contact Editor Holly McCall for questions: info@tennesseelookout.com. Follow Tennessee Lookout on Facebook and Twitter.

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Beyond the Arc Sports

Grizzlies Fourth Quarter Follies Lead to Timberwolves Win

It’s become a predictable pattern for the Memphis Grizzlies: two to three quarters of effective, winning basketball in a four-quarter game. When your starting lineup consists largely of second-string caliber players, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that your team is struggling against top-tier teams, and for anyone following the Grizzlies this year, Wednesday night’s 110-101 loss to the Timberwolves was no surprise.

The first half saw the Grizzlies out in front by a slim margin and taking a three-point lead into the second half. Going by the box score, there are two improvements over the last few games that stand out: getting more shot attempts than their opponent and grabbing more offensive rebounds.

Memphis went into halftime with 14 more field goal attempts than Minnesota, and with 12 offensive rebounds to their opponent’s zero. This is the opposite of what we saw from the Grizzlies in the first half of their recent game against the Brooklyn Nets, where the Nets took a 16-point lead into halftime while having 16 more field goal attempts and 5 offensive rebounds to the Grizzlies zero.

Fourteen was the magic number for the Grizzlies, as they ended the night with 14 more field goal attempts. They also gave up a 14-point lead, allowing the Timberwolves to begin their surge in the third quarter and finish it in the fourth, led by Anthony Edwards, who put up 25 of his 34 points in the second half.

Despite getting off more shot attempts overall and from three-point range, Memphis was outshot by Minnesota in field goal percentage (49.4% to 38.7%) and from beyond the arc (40% to 29.7%).

Jaren Jackson Jr led the Grizzlies with 33 points, 13 rebounds, 1 assist, 3 steals, and 1 block.

Jackson amassed 19 points and 10 rebounds in the first half.

Ziaire Williams with the trick shot.

Ziaire Williams who put up 16 points, 8 rebounds, and 2 assists. Vince Williams Jr finished the night with 11 points, 6 rebounds, 6 assists, 1 steal, and 1 block.

Santi Aldama closed out with 11 points as well as 5 rebounds, 1 assist, 2 steals, and 2 blocks.

Jordan Goodwin, who came to the Grizzlies on a 10-day contract in mid-February and was recently signed to a two-way contract, contributed 5 points, 8 rebounds, a game-high 8 assists, and 2 steals.

GG Jackson: youngest player in the league and a straight up bucket getter.

From the second unit, GG Jackson put up 14 points and 3 rebounds on 5 of 7 shooting overall and 2 of 4 from three-point range.

Who Got Next?

The boys in Beale Street Blue are returning to their home court to take on the Portland Trail Blazers in back-to-back games on Friday, March 1st, and Saturday, March 2nd. Tip-off is at 7 PM CST for both games.

Categories
Politics Politics Beat Blog

Democrat Dwayne Thompson Exiting State House

Dwayne Thompson, the Democratic legislator whose upset victory in a suburban state House District in 2016 ousted a Republican incumbent and gave local Democrats something to cheer about in that Trump year, is taking his leave.

He will not be seeking reelection in District 96.

“I’ve seen the General Assembly become ever more unresponsive and spiteful under the current Republican supermajority leadership. I’ve served 4 terms. This has one of the honors of my life to have my community allowed to represent them in the Tennessee State House. However, I need to spend more time with family and other priorities.,” said Thompson, who expressed confidence that he would be succeeded by a Democrat in the forthcoming 2024 election.

Thompson’s defeat of the GOP’s Steve McManus, who had served several terms in District 96, was unexpected, but it was only the first of four successive wins for Thompson — including victories over Republicans Scott McCormick and Patricia Possel.

In the course of Thompson’s four terms, the district, which bridged East Memphis with sections of Germantown, changed demographically, and by the time it was gerrymandered by the Republican supermajority in 2022 to run east-west across the northern rim of Memphis, it has clearly shifted from Republican  to Democratic dominance. 

The district’s new configuration, making it even more solidly Democratic, was a de facto concession to that fact.

Thompson, whose boyish appearance and energetic conduct of his office belies  his 73 years, said he was confident that he would be succeeded by a younger, aggressive Democrat. At the time of his election, Thompson was a retired Human Resources administrator. 

Local Democrats are currently hoping that Democratic businessman Jesse Huseth, who is targeting GOP incumbent John Gillespie this year, can inaugurate a new Democratic tenure in the adjacent district 97.

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Cover Feature Food & Drink News

Lights, Kitchen, Action!

Eddie Pao no longer directs motion pictures like he did in Taiwan. Instead, Pao, the owner of Mosa Asian Bistro, directs his kitchen staff.

Pao — aka “Mr. Eddie” — has been synonymous with Asian cuisine in Memphis for almost half a century. This includes his famous hot and sour soup as well as his wonton and pad thai dishes.

Pao, 79, who still comes to work every day at his restaurant at 850 South White Station Road in Eastgate Shopping Center, has manned five other restaurant locations since he opened his first Memphis spot in the late ’70s.

In addition to serving lunch and dinner, Mosa caters events almost daily. The restaurant prepares meals for St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital and for sports teams, including the University of Memphis Tigers.

If he’s not in the office, Pao is helping out in the kitchen making sure his fresh menu items are properly prepared.

“I have known Mr. Eddie since I was a kid,” says Jonathan Mah, owner of SideStreet Burgers in Olive Branch, Mississippi. “He has the best hot and sour soup in the city.”

The soup is “the perfect blend of sweet and spicy and sour.”

Mah, who had “the spicy dumplings and Eddie’s favorite noodles” on his last visit to Mosa, says, “I love the spice in the dumplings.”

Photo: Michael Donahue

Eddie’s Way

Born in Hunan province in China, Pao and his family moved to Taiwan when he was 5 years old.

Pao was a rebel growing up; he wanted to do things his way. “When I was little, to tell you the truth, I didn’t follow after my mother and father too much because they were very old-tradition people,” he says.

His parents showed him their way of doing things. They “wanted to go this way,” Pao says, but he thought, “Maybe I can go this way faster.”

Pao’s father worked as an accountant for the government, which was under Chiang Kai-shek, but Pao’s family wasn’t wealthy.

They had “very little money,” Pao says. Their extended family of 40 people lived in one house. Some of them had to sleep on the floor, he recalls.

Pao didn’t like to study. “I go to school, but I don’t follow the teacher too much. Just like I don’t follow my daddy and momma too much.”

He played basketball, and he loved comic books, including ones about Tang Sanzang, a 16th-century Buddhist monk.

Pao’s grandfather remarried after his wife died. Shing Tai Tai, which means “new grandma,” was the cook in the family. “She liked to cook soup for us. Tofu with yellow sprouts.”

Though he serves them in dishes at Mosa, Pao stays away from sprouts. “I don’t eat that any more. Ten years I eat that every day. I miss her cooking, but I don’t eat that.”

“He’ll take out the sprouts,” adds Pao’s daughter, Michelle Pao Levine, who along with her brother, Alex Pao, helps run Mosa.

Another great cook in Eddie’s life was his mother-in-law. She made dishes Pao later would serve in his restaurants: Szechuan chicken, Kung Pao chicken, and General Tso’s chicken.

Eddie didn’t do any of the cooking back then: “I watched and I helped clean up.”

But, he says, “She showed me how to make recipes. How to cook.”

Which came in handy later. “My sauce is different from every other restaurant ’cause my sauce is homemade and the recipe came from her.”

Photo: Courtesy Eddie Pao

Lights, Camera, Action!

Following high school, Eddie enrolled in the motion picture department at an art college because he wanted to learn to make movies. “I always had an imagination from reading comic books.”

After he graduated, Eddie got a job at a privately owned motion picture studio in Taiwan.

He followed the director around at first. “One month and a half later, the director said, ‘Hmmm. How come you know that much?’”

The director was so impressed he said, “You can be my assistant director on my next movie.”

In one movie Eddie worked on as assistant director, the main director, who was from Hong Kong, only spoke Cantonese. But the actor in the movie only spoke Mandarin. So, Eddie became the translator. “The actor and the director cannot understand each other. I’m very lucky. My grandmother is Cantonese, so I can speak it. And I speak Mandarin well; that’s my own language. A lot of things depended on me to finish the movie.”

Eddie eventually moved up to become a director. He believes what he learned directing movies helped him later on in the restaurant business: how to prepare for what you want to make. And then after you make it, check to make sure you did it right, he says.

Photo: Courtesy Eddie Pao

When he was 29, Eddie directed a kung fu movie about a 19th-century judge named Pao Ching Tien, or “Pao Kung,” which was his nickname.

Eddie, who isn’t a kung fu artist, says someone else on the set taught the actors how to “hit and kick.”

He also directed a movie with Charlie Chin, who was a heartthrob at the time. “He was a very handsome man.”

The film with Chin, a “very, very famous star” in Taiwan, was the last film Pao directed. He says Chin, who was “very nice” to him, told him he’d never cried before when he made a movie, but he couldn’t stop crying on the movie Eddie was directing. Eddie believes the plot rekindled memories from Chin’s own life.

Eddie also got in front of the camera. In one movie, he played the part of a student learning from a kung fu master, but he didn’t have to do any kung fu moves in the film.

From Movies to Memphis

In 1977, Eddie, his wife, and daughter, moved to Memphis, where his sister lived. He wanted to pursue the movie business in the United States, but he had a “language problem,” Eddie says. “I have to give it up. I have to make a living.”

It didn’t take him long to figure out what to do. “At that time I thought about my mother-in-law. I learned a lot from her.”

He thought, “Okay, I’ll open a restaurant.’’ Eddie began with “a very small restaurant” and “very little money” when he was 33 years old.

His first restaurant, which he bought from some friends who were anxious to sell it, was on Summer Avenue near Holmes Street.

He kept the previous restaurant’s name, which was “Formosa,” he says. “I didn’t need to change the name. I don’t need to spend more money.”

Eddie wouldn’t open the restaurant until he was satisfied with the food he was making. “I was testing until I was happy. And then I opened.”

“Prior to him opening, most of the other restaurants were serving Cantonese-style food,” Pao Levine says. “That food tends to not be spicy.”

“He brought spicy Chinese food to Memphis,” Alex says.

Eddie’s restaurant was an instant hit. “Many customers waited for almost an hour and a half, two hours. It was a small, nine-table restaurant.”

He stayed at that location for two years. In addition to enjoying the food, his customers taught him how to speak better English.

One customer, who worked for a bank, told Eddie he should open a bigger restaurant. Later, he told Eddie, “Hey, I found some place not too far from here. It’s bigger. Go get it.”

The man also told Eddie his bank would be happy to help him.

The new location on Summer Avenue near Highland Street had 24 tables and a bigger kitchen. People were waiting outside the first day when he opened the doors for business, Eddie says. All the tables filled up, and more people were “waiting for a table” a half hour later.

Over the years, Eddie opened other Formosa locations. One, which he later sold, is still on Quince Road. In 1995, he opened a Formosa in Germantown, but he later closed it because there wasn’t enough parking.

Photo: Michael Donahue

Making Mosa

In 2004, Eddie opened his first Mosa Asian Bistro on Poplar Avenue at Kirby Parkway. Pao Levine, who began working at Mosa after she graduated from college, says Mosa “kept the greatest hits from Formosa” and added the “best hits” of other styles of Asian cuisine. They served “Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese, and Korean” as well as Mandarin food.

Mosa was “more relaxed, more casual, and also a family atmosphere,” Alex says. “Formosa was a little more formal.”

The first Mosa didn’t start off with a bang. “Kirby was a tough location,” Pao Levine says. People were saying, “What is this Asian fusion? Pan Asian?”

But, she adds, “Within two months, we were a full house.”

Chinese restaurants were changing. The “tradition of an old-style sit-down full-service” Asian restaurant was dying out, Alex says.

Eddie never had a buffet at any of his restaurants. “He was always about fresh, made to order,” says Pao Levine. “Always. And still is.”

The Pao family (Photo: Michael Donahue)

In 2008, Eddie opened his current Mosa location. It was in a better building with better parking and better visibility.

They still featured some items that Eddie sold at his first restaurant location, like hot and sour soup, spring rolls, sesame chicken, fried rice, and Szechuan chicken.

They also added new items, including a range of pad thai dishes, the “most well-known noodle dish in Thailand,” Pao Levine says. Thin rice noodles stir fried and sautéed in a soy peanut sauce.

Eddie learned a basic pad thai recipe, but he made his own version, which was spicier with bolder flavors.

Mosa also began serving pho. Their head chef, A-Ton, is from Vietnam.

Asian beef sliders made with mini challah buns from nearby Ricki’s Cookie Corner & Bakery is their newest item.

When they first opened the new Mosa location, Eddie’s wife Charleen made desserts, including blueberry tortes, cheesecake, and cupcakes. They even put in a commercial bakery for her.

“Most Asian mothers do not bake American-style desserts,” Pao Levine says. “Asian desserts tend to not be as sweet.”

Charleen “just taught herself” to bake, Pao Levine says. Their mother, who is “Dad times 10,” is “such a perfectionist. No one can pipe the cream the way she wants it.”

Mosa stopped selling desserts after Charleen stopped baking for the restaurant years ago. She says she’s too busy with the grandchildren.

In October 2013, Mosa was featured on the Cooking Channel’s Cheap Eats. Eddie made his Thai Rainbow Panang Curry with Chicken.

They closed the restaurant during the shoot. “My dad, you could tell he was in his element because he loved being on camera,” Pao Levine says.

The director was a bit standoffish, but that didn’t stop Eddie. “In between takes he would just walk up to the director’s chair and say, ‘Excuse me. Can I take a quick peek at what you’ve done?’ He was really curious about what kind of angle she took a shot. He was wondering what she was trying to capture.

“Half an hour later, they were best friends. She found out talking to Eddie that he was a film director. Between every take she’d ask him, ‘What do you think about this?’ ‘What do you think about that?’ He has such a great eye.”

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We Recommend We Recommend

Quark Theatre Puts on The Sound Inside

On Friday, March 1st, Quark Theatre will stage Adam Rapp’s Tony-nominated The Sound Inside, directed by Tony Isbell.

The play, starring Kim Justis and Taylor Roberts, revolves around two characters, an isolated creative writing professor and her enigmatic student. “The play is about how the two of them get entwined in each other’s lives,” says Isbell. “They develop a relationship, not a romantic relationship, and — this is the part I can’t give away — Bella [the professor] makes a request of the young man, and we don’t know if he’ll be able to do it or not. And at the same time the young man is telling her the story of the novel he’s writing, and the audience is not sure whether what he’s telling is just a novel he’s writing, or if this actually happened to him. And there is some mystery about it and a little bit of suspense about it.”

Isbell continues, “It’s the kind of play that I love. It has some real emotion in it, but it also has some comedy. In fact, it has one of the funniest monologues I’ve ever heard in a play. Some of it is amusing. Some of it is, like I said, mysterious, and it’s something that people will be trying to figure out exactly if what you’re seeing is true or not. You could say that both of these characters are unreliable narrators.”

This will be the regional premiere of The Sound Inside. “We look for plays that are newer, that haven’t been done in Memphis, that are unique in some way or another,” Isbell says of Quark. “We tend to like small casts and shows that don’t require a lot in the way of set or special costumes because that’s just our aesthetic, a kind of minimalist aesthetic.”

This season, the theater company has already put on the American premiere of The Wasp to a sold-out run, and they’ll also be putting on another regional premiere with Constellations by Nick Payne in May. As of right now, Isbell says, opening night of The Sound Inside only has eight tickets left.

Tickets for the 90-minute-long show with no intermission can be purchased at quarktheatre.com. Performances are Fridays and Saturdays at 8 p.m., with Sunday matinees at 2 p.m. through March 17th. A pay-what-you-can performance will be on Monday, March 11th, at 8 p.m.

The Sound Inside, TheatreSouth, First Congo Church, 1000 S. Cooper, Performances March 1-March 17, $20.

Categories
Music Music Features

‘Yeah, You’re a Folk Musician!’

This year’s Folk Alliance International (FAI) conference and awards show, which just happened in Kansas City last week, was especially meaningful for Rachel Maxann. It was on this, her third visit to the annual gathering of global folkies, that she was first featured as an artist in the conference’s Official Showcase. And that’s causing her to look back in wonder at the musical journey she’s been on since moving to Memphis.

“I think living in Memphis really helped me embrace the folksiness of my music in a way that I hadn’t before,” she reflects now. “Because, as a Black female, I’ve always written songs like this, but I hadn’t really thought of myself as a folk musician. I would just call it ‘indie singer songwriter’ because I hadn’t seen that representation before. Of course, I admired the greats like Tracy Chapman, who’s finally getting her flowers once again.” Indeed, Chapman just garnered a Lifetime Achievement Award at the FAI last week. Yet not long ago, learning of the many other uncategorizable artists beyond Chapman was an epiphany of sorts for Maxann.

“It wasn’t until I moved to Memphis that I heard people like Valerie June, or Amythyst Kiah, or Allison Russell, and all these other amazing like Black female folk artists,” she says. “I really started embracing that. And then of course, the community of Memphis and Music Export Memphis [MEM] were full of people that were like, ‘Yeah, you’re a folk musician!’ And I’m like, ‘You know, I am.’ It was Elizabeth [Cawein of MEM] who reached out to me about signing up for the FAI. Here we are a few years later.”

She’s been busy in that time, having followed up her 2019 debut, Fickle Hellcat, with last year’s Black Fae, and the sonic evolution between the two has been striking. Whereas her debut captured the sound of her band running through a set of her eclectic originals, Black Fae aims for more ambitious production and offers more surprises. It first reveals Maxann’s embrace of her inner folk artist, opening with only her voice and acoustic guitar on “Wait for Me.” But it ranges far and wide from there, often with her well-honed band, but sometimes beyond that. The sweeping synths of “Goddess,” for example, could be one of those ’90s tracks by Brian Eno and John Cale, if they’d had Annie Lennox singing. For Maxann, reaching in these ways is the point, and that’s especially true of her latest single, “The Tides,” slated to drop on March 4th.

“When I release the song, it will be a version with just me and my guitar, singing solo, but there’s also the band version. I’m going to be doing both the versions at Folk Alliance as well. And then there’s also a version with my trio [featuring Tamar Love on cello and Alice Hasen on violin]. There are so many versions of the song! I will also be releasing the trio version as a lyric video. So you know, whatever version of ‘The Tides’ you like the best, it’ll be out there. Choose your own adventure!” she laughs, then adds, “Those are my favorite types of books.”

In the meantime, not overly concerned with genre tags, Maxann will continue to go where her deepest feelings take her, always expressed through her powerful voice, steeped in soul but with the plainspokenness of folk. Some call it the latter, but don’t expect any political anthems: Maxann embraces more of the personal side of folk than the music’s more activist tradition.

“I just take whatever I’m feeling and transform it into a cathartic experience via music,” she explains. “I did an interview a while ago, and one of the questions was, ‘Do you feel the need to write about being Black, or being queer, or being a woman in folk?’ And I’m like, ‘Well, not necessarily. I feel that just by writing the songs that I do, singing my experience, that in itself is singing about being Black, female, queer, or whatever. I feel like I’d be forcing it if I tried to sit down and write a protest song. If it inspires me one day, if it comes to me like that, I totally will. I’m not against it. It just hasn’t ever really hit me like that.’”

Rachel Maxann will appear at Hernando’s Hide-a-way on Friday, March 8th, as part of a songwriters-in-the-round show, and on March 28th, opening for Dale Hollow.

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Opinion The Last Word

Twist on American Gothic

While my grandparents owned several pitchforks, they were light-years from the frowning pair depicted in Grant Wood’s painting American Gothic. Rather, my grandparents beamed while running their horse farm because they enjoyed the work. I’m certain that the artist’s gloomy couple would have considered their outsized interest in racehorses frivolous and impractical. Grandpa never bred a big winner but persisted because he admired racehorses’ power and found pleasure in the statistical challenges of improving breeding lines. At the farm, there was a pulse of manic energy, and jockeys and grooms lived outside the 9-to-5 world.

Yes, my grandparents were an unorthodox pair, and they swept us into their lifestyles. Provided few warnings about the effect of gravity, my cousins and I rode horses believing that none of us would ever take a terrible fall. “If worst comes to worst — and I don’t think it will — relax and float down like a butterfly,” my grandmother advised. A pleasant euphemism for a fall but much easier to actualize when one has a good pair of wings. Convinced of our spectacular bloodlines, she even cleared a spot in the driver’s seat for anyone willing to step up, first placing her bet on Dax and directing him to drive us to the local barbecue joint. Driving wasn’t so different from steering bumper cars at the county fair, she reasoned, confident that the 8-year-old was up to the task. “I’m hungry, and it’s time to get some ribs!” she cried, brandishing a 10-spot bill. “Now climb in,” she ordered, settling my sister Andrea and cousin Mary Liz in the backseat.

The game was on, and after a short tutorial, she dropped the keys to the Volkswagen in Dax’s pudgy fingers. When the car at last skidded into the parking lot, I stared in awe at the South’s youngest chauffeur. At 10, I had a few years over Dax, but recent setbacks had convinced me that I was not legend material, and the evidence was solid. When I fell from a horse, the crash hurt like hell. Plus, my piggy bank was in grave trouble because I picked the wrong horses on every $5 bet that the adults placed for me at Oaklawn Track.

During this season of bruises and squandered allowance, a beloved dog went missing, uniting the bold and the wannabes in a mission. After finding Pepper, we dangled sun-toasted legs over the porch and philosophized about finding a treasure we feared lost, pausing in our profundities to blow bubbles crafted of Bazooka gum. Real, significant loss came the next year when my uncle accepted a job in Baltimore, and my aunt packed up, leaving behind Dax and Mary Elizabeth’s kid-size riding boots. I sulked in the back stall, dreading the separation to come.

Later, my sister and I grew close to another pair of cousins (on my mother’s side of the family) residing three hours south on the Arkansas slice of Texarkana. There, Kevin and Matt showed off their new Boy Scout merit badges in camping and woodworking, and the reigning expletive was “Hell’s bells!” expressing my aunt’s failure to bake the perfect side dish for the holidays. Taking notes, I compared patterns of conformity and unconventionality and the many options for ways to live, and at home, I had only to look at my mother and father to see radically different positions.

My cousins eventually went off into the world, and my sister and I left home as well. Predictably, a physician and a corporate vice-president emerged from the conventional side of my family. A brave entrepreneur — that’s Dax — took risks that paid off, and Mary Liz has been a powerful force. Defying the strictures of her husband’s paraplegic condition, she asked doctors to help them have children. Mary Liz’s passion for life and will to bring children into existence would receive hearty approval from both of our grandparents. In truth, they weren’t promoting horses to us, but rather the value of picking up the damn barbecue and enjoying the feast.

Why Memphis? It’s a perfect place to plant my hybrid self where I can hang out with colorful folks while pursuing goals that will never yield the high of winning a race but that do keep the bills paid. No legend myself, I’m exposed to shining stars in this city — artists, musicians, quirky characters. Crossing the Hernando de Soto Bridge, a view of Arkansas opens to the west and the Downtown skyline stands in the east. Here, it’s possible to stay close both geographically and emotionally to childhood experiences. As the Peabody’s staff serves high tea, musicians in clubs are preparing for revelry. Since there is something for all of my cousins to savor here, I hope to entice them to visit for a long weekend soon.

Stephanie Painter is a local freelance writer. She has written for Memphis Magazine, Germantown Magazine, Memphis Parent, Chapter 16, Number: Inc., and Episcopal Café. She is the author of the children’s picture book Liz Tames A Dragon.

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At Large Opinion

A Bang-up Job

Last Friday, a civil court jury in New York City found Wayne LaPierre, the now-former head of the National Rifle Association (NRA), liable for mishandling $5.4 million of the organization’s money.

Apparently unable to squeak by on his meager $2.2 million annual salary, LaPierre rolled up charges of more than $270,000 for clothes from a Zegna boutique in Beverly Hills, billed tens of thousands of dollars for private charter flights for himself and relatives, and took numerous extravagant NRA-paid vacations. In addition, LaPierre often billed the NRA for a stylist who charged $10,000 a session for hair and makeup for his wife, Susan LaPierre. Fancy!

The trial, prosecuted by New York Attorney General Letitia James, uncovered other fiduciary misdeeds, including that of LaPierre’s personal assistant, Millie Hallow, who he retained even after she was caught funneling $40,000 in NRA money to pay for her son’s wedding.

In leading the “nonprofit” organization that is arguably responsible for more civilian gun deaths than any in American history, Wayne LaPierre got rich and lived large. He famously said, “The only way to stop a bad guy with a gun is with a good guy with a gun.” It now appears that you can also stop a bad guy with a gun with a lawsuit. Or at least, make him resign.

The truth is the NRA has been in something of a decline. Membership has dropped by nearly a third — from 6 million members to around 4 million members — in little more than five years. And an internal audit cited by The New York Times found that the organization’s revenue is down 44 percent over the past eight years.

Despite these numbers, the NRA still has significant investments that pay consistent dividends year after year. These include, among many others, senators Ted Cruz, Lindsey Graham, Mitch McConnell, and Tennessee’s own Marsha Blackburn, who the NRA has funded to the tune of more than $1.3 million. (No word on whether Marsha was ever in line for one of those sweet $10,000 hairstylin’s.)

These political stalwarts assist their blood-stained benefactor by opposing such scary bills as the Protect America’s Schools Act and the Keep Americans Safe Act — which proposed to limit the size of gun magazines. It’s the position of Marsha, Mitch, and their NRA buddies that we can’t be forcing mass shooters to reload too often because it infringes their Second Amendment rights.

Still, as I mentioned above, there is some hope that we may be witnessing the end of an era. According to the Open Secrets organization, the NRA recently reported its largest-ever year-to-year decline in federal lobbying spending — from $4.9 million in 2021 to $2.6 million in 2022. There was also a decline in NRA spending in federal elections from $54.5 million in 2016 to $29.1 million in 2020.

Even given those encouraging trends, however, there’s no denying that LaPierre and the NRA managed to thoroughly transform the American political landscape over the past 25 years. Few Republicans have the courage to support gun reform — because they fear the NRA. And thanks to the NRA, the Second Amendment has been twisted to mean that any kind of permit or gun training or limitation as to where guns can be carried is a violation of holy writ. “Democrats will take your guns” is an ever-recurring election year mantra for the GOP. More than half of the 50 states have essentially no gun regulations for permitting or carrying. Thoughts and prayers are allowed — for now — but don’t get too carried away with those thoughts.

There is a 2013 video obtained by The New Yorker of LaPierre shooting an elephant in Africa. It’s on YouTube, but I do not recommend that you watch it, unless you consider such hunting a “sport.” LaPierre is guided to an ambush position where he can shoot the great animal from close range. It falls to the ground, lying still, groaning in agony. LaPierre takes three more shots into the moaning beast from 20 feet away but is unable to hit the kill spot pointed out by the guide, who is finally forced to make the kill.

There is a metaphor there for Republicans. There is a lesson there for all of us. Who can name the great beast?