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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Best Bets: Gray Canary’s S’more

Michael Donahue

S’more at The Gray Canary

I didn’t discover s’mores — that graham cracker, marshmallow, Hershey’s chocolate bar concoction — until I was a grown-up. My sister was a Brownie scout, but I don’t remember her mentioning the glories of s’more making over a campfire, which I associate with scouting.

I do know that I love the glorified “S’more” dessert at The Gray Canary. It’s absolutely delicious.

Instead of making gooey treats over a campfire, this dessert — which is quite large — reminds me of Baked Alaska, which I used to order as a birthday cake at the old Justine’s restaurant. I also got a Baked Alaska “birthday cake” at Antoine’s one year in New Orleans. This is that great ice cream/cake concoction that arrives at the table in flames.

Ditto The Gray Canary’s “S’more.” It also arrives at your table on fire.

I ordered one at a recent dinner with five friends at the restaurant and I immediately said I wasn’t going to share it. The server brought extra spoons, so I reluctantly relented. Then a fellow diner said, “Let’s order another one for the table.” We did. And that immediately was devoured. To the last smudge of cream.

I asked Michael Hudman, who co-owns Gray Canary with Andy Ticer, the history of their S’more dessert.

They were working on a dessert menu while driving to New Orleans, Hudman says. “We knew we wanted to use fire in some form or fashion. We played around with smoked cream, burnt cream, this and that, a lot of different ways. Andy may have said, ‘Hey, I love s’mores.’ So, we thought about that. It makes so much sense. When you’re down on a beach doing s’mores with the kids, it was a lot of fun.

“The restaurant kind of encapsulates high energy, lots of fun. The whole premise behind this restaurant was fun.”

The Gray Canary chef de cuisine Ysaac Ramirez showed me how he assembles the dessert.

He poured chocolate and hazelnut ganache — the base — on a plate. On top of that, he placed a frozen graham cracker-encrusted flor di latte soft serve cream, which he covered  with Italian merengue that he piped on. He then torched the whole thing to give it a golden brown, added graham cracker crumbs and hazelnuts to the plate and, finally, doused the dessert with grappa and ignited it.

Hudman agrees the dessert looks like a Baked Alaska. So, it perfectly fit with the restaurant theme — fun. “That same vibe — nice, loud, and rambunctious.”

The Gray Canary is at 301 South Front; 901 242-2932

Best Bets: Gray Canary’s S’more

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News News Blog

VIDEO: Time Lapse Shows Work on MemFix 4

VIDEO: Time Lapse Shows Work on MemFix 4

So, what are those crews doing when they’ve got I-240 all closed off?

Well, a new time-lapse video from the Tennessee Department of Transportation (TDOT) shows what they’ve been up to.

MemFix 4 is TDOT’s $54-million project to repair or replace four bridges in the Poplar/240 area. TDOT

A screen grab from TDOT’s MemFix 4 time lapse video.

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Politics Politics Beat Blog

Shade in Shelby County: A Guest Viewpoint

In a discussion over the weekend among the candidates for Shelby County Mayor, candidate David Lenoir was asked to respond to charges that his campaign had darkened an image of his opponent, Lee Harris, in a recent mailer. Lenoir denied that there had been any doctoring of the image and cast the blame for the topic onto Wendi Thomas, the Memphis journalist who most recently ran the MLK50: Justice in Journalism project. Specifically, Lenoir said, “This … was all cooked up by Wendi Thomas and you know how divisive she can be.” This response was wrong on so many levels, I feel a need to throw some shade on Lenoir (pun intended).

Daniel Kiel

First, blaming a critical media is like blaming the doctor who delivers an unwanted diagnosis. It is rooted in denial of facts, or at least of the way things might be interpreted. Second, though media-bashing seems to be a wise political strategy these days, Lenoir did not actually bash the media — he targeted a single member of the media, one who is black and female and whose work regularly points out racial discrimination and disparity in our community. Several white journalists had pointed out the racial overtones of the Lenoir mailer before Thomas, yet the fault was solely laid at Thomas’s feet.

One reason other non-Thomas journalists have pointed out the racial overtones of the mailer is that the racial overtones of the mailer are kind of difficult to miss. I received one of these mailers, which feature a shadowy Harris seemingly juggling $100 bills amidst claims that he will not be a responsible steward of the county’s money, and immediately shook my head. (Disclosure: I’m white) That it traffics in stereotypes, seeking to elicit a response in the viewer rooted in beliefs about trustworthiness of African Americans, is difficult to deny. It could even be read to trigger fear that some sort of rapper is running for mayor to make it rain in the club of Shelby County after raising taxes to do so. That these stereotyping suggestions appear at all is troublesome, but that they appear next to a darkened image is egregious, in my opinion. Not surprising given the local and national history with race-baiting and dog-whistling in campaigns, but still egregious.

To deny that the mailer could be understood in this way has several effects. It denies to those who are offended the dignity of deciding for themselves what is offensive. It is as if Lenoir is suggesting that people not be allowed to trust their own feelings — again, feelings that are being felt by white and black Shelby Countians alike, though likely not in equal measure — and instead, trust that he meant no harm. It also displays either a high level of ignorance or disingenuousness about race in our community. Either Lenoir is truly surprised that the mailer might be offensive, in which case he is showing himself as woefully out of touch with the experience of the majority of Shelby County residents. Or he knows, even hopes, it could be understood this way, consciously or unconsciously, and will lead voters into the safety he is offering. To me, the scapegoating of Thomas, a favorite target of local whites in power, suggests that the latter explanation is in play.

Lenoir could have blamed the media, broadly, for misunderstanding him, but he chose to cite one black journalist. He also could have feigned surprise at the reaction, acknowledged error, claimed ignorance, apologized, maybe even committed to not sending any more copies of the mailer out. That may have helped the issue go away, but maybe that is not the goal. Perhaps the goal is to give some subset of voters the sense that his opponent is not Lee Harris, but is actually Wendi Thomas.

Of Thomas, Lenoir says, “we all know how divisive she can be.” Who is the “we” in that sentence? My guess: white people, specifically white people uncomfortable with criticism from the black community. That Thomas’s work is “divisive” is hard to dispute — it divides opinions because it unapologetically touches on the racial, gender, and socioeconomic divides in our community. Thomas did not create those divides, again, any more than a doctor creates symptoms. The divisions Lenoir ought to be concerned about are the attitudes, structures, and practices that give Thomas and others focused on local inequity so much to write about.

Of course, Lenoir is not literally running against Wendi Thomas, the person. Rather, he is running against ideas some might associate with her. It is instructive to consider what a campaign against those ideas might look like. Over the years, Thomas has repeatedly raised complex and often damning questions about the distribution and use of power in our community. These questions are often inconvenient to those in power, but they serve a crucial purpose of accountability. It is as though Thomas is sitting on the community’s shoulder, reminding us of things we ought to have been considering all along — things like diversity in media and in economic development, the crippling barriers generated by poverty, racial and gender discrimination faced regularly by individuals in all walks of life and across levels of income. Think of hers as a voice of conscience, critical and persistent, but rooted in the desire to make things better.

A symbolic campaign against “Wendi Thomas” is a campaign against criticism and a campaign against change from a status quo that benefits Shelby County residents unevenly. It is a campaign against learning from mistakes, against acknowledging the feelings of others, against critical self-examination, against acknowledging the possibility that the community might look different — and less flattering — from a different perspective, all things that we could use more of. And, of course, it is a campaign against a black voice for black empowerment, a black voice that dares to question the current dispensation. And to be clear, Thomas has never been critical solely of white leaders; her voice can be inconvenient for anyone in power. It is just that political, and particularly economic, power continues to be disproportionately wielded by whites in Shelby County.

The shading of an image of an African American opponent in a county mayoral race reflects poor judgment or callous disregard of others’ feelings. An individual standing for election as the county’s executive should expect questions on the topic and either defend the decision or acknowledge a mistake. Instead, Lenoir opted to pass the blame on to a Shelby County citizen who has been willing to sit on the shoulders of our community and make noise. Our community could use more such citizens.

Daniel Kiel is a Professor of Law at the University of Memphis, a recipient of the University’s Martin Luther King Human Rights Award and a widely published author, especially on the subject of race relations.

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News News Blog

Panel Focuses on Death Penalty as New Tennessee Execution Looms

A panel of experts who have had front-row seats to state-sanctioned executions will discuss the death penalty here Thursday as the state prepares to carry out its first execution since 2009.

Last week, a judge ruled the state’s lethal injection protocol does not violate the Tennessee Constitution nor the United States Constitution. State officials adopted the new, three-drug injection in January to replace another drug, which became hard to get as some drug makers refused sell it to anyone hoping to use it for executions.

The new injection — made from midazolam, vecuronium bromide, and potassium chloride — has never been used in Tennessee. Attorneys for 33 death-row inmates have said using it would leave inmates aware and sensate during the execution and its effect is like “being burned alive from the inside.”

However, Chancellor Ellen Hobbs Lyle of the Davidson County Chancery Court ruled last week that, while using the drugs may cause pain, it does not amount to torture.

State officials are planning to kill Billy Ray Irrick on August 9th. Irrick got the death penalty for the 1986 rape and murder of a seven-year-old Knox County girl. Attorneys argue he has a mental illness that has never been fully explored in court.

Irrick’s attorneys are now working to get a stay on his execution until they can get an appeal on the use of the state’s new injection.
Google Maps

Riverbend Maximum Security Institution in Nashville is home to Tennessee’s death row.

A Shelby County man, Sedrick Clayton, is scheduled for execution on November 28th. He was convicted and sentenced to death here in 2014 for murdering the mother of his child and her parents. 

Clayton

The state’s last execution was in December 2009. Cecil Johnson was killed at Nashville’s Riverbend Maximum Security Institution for the murder of three, in a store in 1980.

This is the stage for Thursday’s panel discussion hosted by Tennesseans for Alternatives to the Death Penalty (TADP). The panel will focus on how executions impact corrections staff.

The panel includes Frank Thompson, former superintendent of Oregon State Penitentiary, who oversaw the state’s only executions in the modern death penalty era, and retired Chaplain Jerry Welborn, who served as Tennessee’s death row chaplain from 1997-2014.

When: Thursday, August 2, 2018, from 6:00-7:15 p.m.
Where: Evergreen Presbyterian Church, 1567 Overton Park Ave., Memphis, 38112

Categories
Fly On The Wall Blog Opinion

Memphis Isn’t America’s Sweatiest City

Cold comfort seems like the wrong way to describe this latest news.

But the mercury is climbing again, as we head into August and as our pits and upper lips go dewey and our thighs turn into cheese factories, we can all be thankful that we live in Memphis, and not one of the nine American cities that, according to a new report, are even nastier.

Honeywell Fans partnered with consultants from Environmental Health & Engineering to create the definitive sweaty city list based on a set of criteria that includes “humidity levels, length of summer and access to shade.” Shockingly, Memphis barely cracked the top ten.

As it happens, your Pesky Fly is a misery tourist who’s visited every single furnace on Honeywell’s top 10. So, instead of simply sharing the list, I’ve included some thoughts about each location.

1. Orlando, Florida — Anybody who’s ever stood in line at Disney World knows that Orlando can be peeing-your-pants-while-drinking-coffee-in-hell miserable. But as hot and bug-infested as Orlando may seem, it’s easy to maintain a smile and cheerful demeanor by reminding yourself that at least you’re not in Tampa. 

2. New Orleans, Louisiana — Let’s be honest. Regardless of Honeywell’s methodology, fewer experiences produce more sweat for the least amount of effort, than standing roadside on Carrollton, waiting for an afternoon streetcar. NOLA is probably at least as sticky, buggy, and stultifying as Orlando most days, but everybody’s having too good of a time to care.

3. Phoenix, Arizona — There is a place where dry heat meets the dry heaves. That place is Phoenix.

4. Dallas, Texas — Being in Dallas in the summer is like being in a prison movie where the sadistic warden punishes everybody by locking them in a boiler room and cranking the juice.

5. Las Vegas, Nevada — Like somebody covered Dallas in glitter and feathers.

6. Oklahoma City, Oklahoma — How this place clocks in at No. 5 is a mystery. The heat is like a blazing fist that reaches down your throat and rips out your tongue.

7. Kansas City, Missouri — I honestly don’t remember KC being all that hot. But I was in a brisket coma.

8. Austin, Texas —  Cooler than Dallas in most regards.

9. Atlanta, Georgia — One of America’s most miserable rush hours. Thankfully, there’s a proper bar at every exit of the commute.

10. Memphis, Tennessee — There are nine places sweatier than Memphis. And besides, who’s got time for weather talk when we have Bird Scooters to complain about?

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News News Blog

Goldstrike Opens Sports Betting August 1st

Gold Strike Casino Resort will accept its first legal sports wagers on Wednesday, August 1st at noon in Tunica, under new Mississippi regulations allowing licensed casinos to conduct sports book operations.

Invited guests, including local dignitaries and sports figures, will place simultaneous wagers at 12:00 p.m.

In an ironic twist, it was August 1st, 1992, when the first casinos opened for business in Mississippi, dramatically changing the financial and social landscape of the state.

Among those invited to place the first bets at Goldstrike are: Stanley Morgan, University of Tennessee Knoxville wide receiver and four-time NFL Pro Bowler; Former Mississippi Gaming Commission Chairman Nolen Canon; Mississippi Senate Tourism Committee Chair Lydia Chassaniol; and Mississippi House Gaming Committee Vice-Chair Rep. Cedric Burnett.

Goldstrike is owned by MGM Resorts International, which also owns Beau Rivage on the Gulf Coast. Beau Rivage will also kick off its sports wagering with a similar ceremony at noon on Wednesday. 

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Film/TV Film/TV/Etc. Blog

Three Identical Strangers

David Kellman, Robert Shafran, and Eddy Galland are the subjects of the documentary Three Identical Strangers.

The documentary Three Identical Strangers tells the story of three college-age kids in 1980 who discovered they were triplets by accident. It covers their initial dream-like excitement, then unravels the reasons for their separation at birth.

Told in modern documentary style, no head is ever onscreen for an entire sentence, cutting multiple times away to re-enactments with faces tastefully obscured, stock footage, home videos, and slow zooms into old pictures. Emotive instrumental music puts the viewer into the mood of these disembodied quotes: Things must be understood immediately, and rushed along. Every further explanation is presented as a shocking reveal.

The material rewards this approach: The story is compelling. The three brothers got to fulfill the Cinderella-like fantasy of having a new family and a secret history. And then, over the course of their lives, the fantasy darkened.

The triplets, David Kellman, Robert Shafran, and Eddy Galland, initially became famous upon the discovery of their connection. We see them joking with Donahue and Brokaw on talk shows, cameoing in Madonna’s Desperately Seeking Susan, and opening their own New York restaurant named “Triplets” (scored to “Scenes From An Italian Restaurant” by Billy Joel, of whom they all look like a younger version).

Director Tim Warble’s style works best at conveying their euphoria, savoring the details of Shafran’s first day at college, where everyone already knows him and calls him Eddy. The fast cutting widens to include the viewpoints of his entire tripartite extended family, and beautifully sells the idea of being caught up in an unexpected reunion.

Strangers nods to more idiosyncratic documentaries. The surviving siblings look into the camera in the manner of Errol Morris’ Interrotron, while almost everyone else has a traditional, off-camera eyeline. We see sped-up, tilt-shifted New York crowds set to a Phillip Glass-ian score. But the film’s dominant style is of its production company CNN Films — that of a televisual newsmagazine. To emphasize points, the film recycles its own footage and sound bites, apparently not expecting viewers to remember things said less than an hour before.

Since the documentary presents itself as a mystery, I won’t offer any spoilers. Centered around the Louise Wise Services adoption agency and a study by the psychologist Dr. Peter Neubauer, the movie builds to a shocking reveal that never quite comes, like it would in a Morris doc. Without a face for its villain, the film parlays its vagueness into attempted heartwarming support for “nurture” in the nature vs. nurture argument — the triumph of family over genes. It then concentrates the viewers’ ire on anonymous, bureaucratic sources of power: the adoption agency, researchers, and the modern custodians of that research. What ultimately weakens the film isn’t its efficient style but an unhappy ending. It creates a tension but can never release it. It’s a call to action that partially works.

Hierarchical structures concentrate power at the top, and when they do wrong, it takes great effort by individuals at the bottom to right the wrongs. This film has resulted in the release of some files, while alleging there are adoptees who still don’t know they were separated at birth from siblings they’ve never met. It makes one long for a Panopticon showing everyone’s misdeeds, for transparency in all things. While such openness would make life uncomfortable, with every institution and person’s awful pasts on display, it would prevent any past, like that of these brothers, from being irretrievable.

Three Identical Strangers

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

2nd Hopdoddy opening August 13th

The second location of the Texas-based burger chain Hopdoddy will open here on August 13th in East Memphis at Poplar Commons. There, the restaurant will join Nordstrom Rack, Chicken Salad Chick, and Ulta.

You can expect the same great burgers, bowls of fries, and imaginative milkshakes. In addition, Hopdoddy will continue its new “Brew Series” burger …

which emphasizes the synergy between burger and beer at Hopdoddy. In September, guests can expect a spotlight on local Oktoberfest beers along with the new Das Brat Burger featuring a bratwurst and potato patty topped with homemade sauerkraut, lingonberry preserve and Oktoberfest pickled mustard seeds.

 

The location will also participate in the chain’s “Goodnight for a Good Cause” charitable giving program. For every Goodnight Burger sold, a portion of the proceeds will go to the Stax Music Academy.

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News News Blog

State Wants Pause on Part of Driver’s License Order

tn.gov

A sample Tennessee driver license.

State officials have stopped revoking driver’s licenses from those who can’t pay traffic-ticket fines and fees and have lifted revocations for most, but they want a halt on the process to get revoked licenses back to all such drivers.

Department of Safety and Homeland Security (DHS) Commissioner David Purkey filed an appeal last week on a legal decision made earlier this month that ruled unconstitutional the state’s process of revoking licenses because drivers could not pay fines and fees.

The suit was originally filed in January 2017, in part by Just City, the Memphis criminal justice reform advocacy group, and Memphis-based law firm Baker, Donelson, Bearman, Caldwell and Berkowitz. The National Center for Law and Economic Justice, and Civil Rights Corps joined the suit later.

The order from United States District Judge Aleta Trauger mandated DHS officials to immediately stop all such revocations and reinstate any driver’s license that was revoked based solely on inability to pay.

But Purkey asked to pause a third mandate that directs his office to draft and submit a plan to identify and reinstate licenses of all of those whose licenses were taken because they couldn’t pay. Purkey argued that some ”drivers may face other revocations or suspensions on other grounds.”

Finding those will take time and taxpayer dollars, Purkey argued in his appeal. So, he wants an opinion from the Sixth Circuit Court of Appeal on the constitutionality of parts of Trauger’s order before he spends time or money.
[pullquote-1] “Moreover, the development of a plan while this matter is on appeal will require individual review of many driver’s license records, and such driver-by-driver assessments will be quite complicated in some instances,” reads the appeal. “The expenditure of government funds and resources to that endeavor, while the state exercises its right to appeal, would be potentially wasteful given the possibility of a reversal or remand for further proceedings.”

Purkey said, his department has “administratively lifted approximately 237,000 (such revocations) affecting approximately 118,000 drivers.” With that, he said pausing the creation of the plan would “cause no harm” to the plaintiffs in the case.

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News News Blog

Flyer Wins Three National Awards at Newsweekly Convention

The Memphis Flyer won three writing awards at the national Association of Alternative NewsMedia convention in San Diego last week. The Flyer competes in the “large paper” category (circulation 40,000 and over) against major city newsweeklies from around the country.

Flyer winners were:
Bruce VanWyngarden, who won first place in the Column category for his weekly Letter From the Editor.
Chris McCoy, who won second place in Arts Criticism for his movie reviews.
Chris Davis, who won third place in Beat Reporting for his story, “The Art of the Deal: What Happened at MCA?”