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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Food News

There’s no shortage of choices for dining at the intersection of Poplar and Mendenhall. For example, Café Toscana opened May 23rd in the shopping center next to Malco’s Paradiso cinema.
Chef and owner Giacomo Ciabattini went to cooking school in Florence, Italy, where he was born. After working for a restaurant there for about 10 years, Ciabattini moved to the United States in 1984, working first in California, where he opened his own restaurant in San Francisco in 1994. He then joined Romano’s Macaroni Grill to work in menu development and met his wife, Lea, a Memphis native. He later did menu development for the Olive Garden and was able to spend three months out of the year in Tuscany.
“It was great. I got to go home a lot, but now we have two little girls getting ready to start school, and we wanted them to be raised around their cousins, grandparents, and family,” Ciabattini says. “We moved here in December and started looking for a place, because we knew that’s what we wanted to do.”
The couple chose the location where Le Petite Bistro was for many years and spent weeks transforming the décor to give the restaurant a brighter, more open ambience. Ciabattini used a warm red and soft yellow palette to give the restaurant a more Tuscan feel. He also modeled the menu after an authentic Tuscan café, with fresh seafood and pasta dishes.
“It a little bit of a mixture, with more Tuscan and more contemporary,” says Ciabattini. “It is more simple and fresh than the traditional Italian dishes you would find at most restaurants.”
Café Toscana is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and for dinner from 5:30 to 10 p.m. daily except Sunday. Reservations are strongly recommended.
Café Toscana, 5007 Black Road (761-9522)

Downstairs from Cafe Toscana, Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream is set to open this week. Owner Marc Tate opened a Ben & Jerry’s in Germantown in July 2004, and he says it’s been a huge success, though he does plan to offer some new features at the new Memphis location.
“I want it to be not just an ice cream shop. I want it to be a dessert emporium,” Tate says. The location will offer low lighting and offerings beyond ice cream, such as cakes and Belgian waffles. In addition, Tate will open a patio with live music on the weekends.
A grand opening is slated for August 6th. “I’ve talked to a few of my neighbors, and we’d like to have a block party that weekend,” Tate says.
Ben & Jerry’s will be open Monday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and 1 to 11 p.m. Sunday.
Ben & Jerry’s, 5007 Black Road ()

Also new to the neighborhood is Carraba’s Fine Italian Grill, which opened its first Memphis location June 27th at the entrance to Clark Tower. The restaurant, owned and operated by Outback Steakhouse International, features an exhibition-style kitchen, where guests can watch the chefs in action. In addition to Italian specialties, the menu features wood-grilled meat and fish. Kids can shape and mold fresh pizza dough while waiting for dinner. A second location is slated to open in Collierville in the fall.
Carraba’s is open at 4 p.m. Monday through Friday and at 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. The restaurant closes at 10 p.m. throughout the week and stays open until 11:30 on Friday and Saturday.
Carraba’s Fine Italian Grill, 5110 Poplar Ave. (685-9900)

“Patrick Kelly: A Retrospective,” now at the Brooks Museum through August 28th, highlights the Vicksburg-born designer’s work from the 1980s. Kelly worked in Paris and was one of the first African-American designers to enjoy success in the competitive world of fashion.
To pay tribute to Kelly and celebrate Bastille Day, chef Penny McCraw of the museum’s Brushmark restaurant, will present a menu of French fare July 12th through July 16th. McCraw will prepare lobster bisque, crêpe de jour, and mesclun salad with duck confit and wild mushrooms, just to name a few items.
Kelly is also the inspiration for the Brooks’ Avante Garde Party, being held Saturday, July 16th. “You do have to be a museum member to attend,” says Diane Jalfon, public-relations manager of the Brooks. “But many people purchase a membership just for this event,” she says. The theme this year is “Material World: Couture and Casino Party.” The evening will include dancing, casino games by Harrah’s Entertainment, a fashion show from stores in Laurelwood Shopping Center, and, of course, plenty of food.
“We will have an upscale buffet with some French influences, but with it being summertime, we’ll have some fresh, crisp flavors,” says McCraw. “Outside I’m going to have an interactive station where I’ll be doing flaming bananas Foster.”
The Brushmark is open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Reservations are recommended.
For more information about museum membership, contact Effie Phillips at 544-6230.
The Brushmark, at the Memphis Brooks Museum of Art, in Overton Park (544-6225)




Categories
Film Features Film/TV

The New Worlds

In War of the Worlds, Tom Cruise’s Ray Ferrier emerges from the first alien attack with a white, ash-covered face. After escaping harm, he returns home, shaken and in shock. His children, unaware of any trouble, ask what has happened, but he doesn’t have any words for it. The attack was too horrifying, too terrible. All he can do is gather them and move them out of the house. But where? Where can they run when the terror is seemingly everywhere? They get in a car and drive, but the carnage is all around. When Ray’s daughter asks, “Is it the terrorists?” what we are seeing is an update of a classic story that cannot possibly be told without acknowledging the deep trauma of 9/11 and its ramifications.

War of the Worlds has fascinated us for more than 100 years. Set initially in Victorian England, H.G. Wells’ 1898 novel chronicles the landing of Martians and their swift takeover of the world in giant “tripods.” Some credit this book as the beginning of science fiction. Forty years later, Orson Welles and his Mercury Theatre performed an unusual and updated Halloween interpretation, retooled as a radio news broadcast. Even though there were numerous disclaimers within the program, there were pockets of hysteria across the country. (My grandmother fondly recalled hearing this as a girl. She wasn’t fooled.) In 1953, Hollywood offered another update, this time with the atom bomb as the preferred weapon against the enemy.

There’s an interesting pattern to this history. Each update of the story emerges from the specter of social disaster. In 1938, it was the threat of World War II. In 1953, it was a response to nuclear paranoia and the Cold War. Now it is terrorism.

Anyhoo … Ray is a bad single dad. His stately ex-wife drops the kids off at his messy New Jersey home for the weekend, and Ray is reminded, yet again, of how disconnected he is from their lives. Son Robbie (Justin Chatwin) is a rebellious teen, and daughter Rachel (Dakota Fanning) is precocious and well-spoken, if phobic. But family divisions are easily forgotten (temporarily) when aliens are attacking, and it’s not long before the arrival of intergalactic evildoers interrupts domestic squabbles everywhere. Instead, though, of arriving from another planet, they’re already here – deposited millions of years ago for an eventual uprising. They are horrible: giant three-legged metal monsters that zap with death rays and suck blood out of people. Ray and family essentially spend the film running until the final showdown, which, if you have read the book or seen the ’53 film, you know does not involve humans.

In the wake of 9/11, director Steven Spielberg has broken his pledge to never direct a film with bad aliens in them. The truth is that things that are alien to us are just as likely to be as bad as we are ourselves. Our panic and our response to terror must be examined. And so it is in this slick and satisfying remake. The destruction of the world looks quite real, and the aliens and their vessels look quite alien – retro, almost, which is fitting in a film that is the third remake of a science-fiction story (fourth, if you include the late-1980s TV series which was bad but awesome). By taking an almost exclusive Cruise-centric point of view, the film becomes very personal, and we can see our own responses and choices within his. And it’s not all running from aliens. The scene where Ray realizes he doesn’t know any of his daughter’s favorite lullabies is more devastating than the several human-vaporizations that preceded it. Likewise, when we first see the aliens, they are meticulously poring through a family photo collection. Creeeeeepy! And yet strangely real. They’re so careful with the photos. Weird. Alien.

Neither as grand in scope as it could be (what? no appearance by the president?) nor as suspenseful as it wants to be (Spielberg’s 1975 Jaws had the good sense to wait a full hour before showing us the shark), War of the Worlds still succeeds as the kind of social catharsis that can only be achieved by watching the world end. As with 1994’s Jurassic Park, you can tell that Spielberg sped this through production, but he shows here that he’s better at speeding than he was then. His touches are everywhere, and his sentimentality is used as sparingly as John Williams’ restrained and alarming score (whose sounds are sometimes indistinguishable from alien noises). Cruise, likewise, succeeds with the less-is-more approach. Seems like his apocalyptic personal life could take a few notes from the notion of subtlety and restraint. n – Bo List

Categories
Politics Politics Feature

Plante: How It Looks

Plante: How It Looks

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Editorial Opinion

GOOD NEWS BEARS

We’re as impressed by orderly presentations as anybody, and so we were intrigued by a joint press release put out late last week by four pillars of the local law-enforcement community: Shelby County sheriff Mark H. Luttrell Jr.; Memphis police director Larry Godwin; U.S. attorney Terry Harris; and Shelby County district attorney general Bill Gibbons.

But the proposed contribution was much too long for our Viewpoint space, so that – plus the fact that we kept hearing it read by each of the signatories in turn on the electronic media – caused us to demur.

Still, we are encouraged by the thrust of the piece, which is that – aggravated assaults, juvenile crime, and traffic mishaps aside – our community has been faring better in crime statistics of late.

Specifically, the latest FBI statistical report suggests that since 2003 violent crimes in the Memphis area have dipped by 2 percent and property crimes by 2.6 percent, as compared to a nationwide drop of 1.7 percent and 1.8 percent, respectively. Our four local law enforcers say further: “Looking at longer-term trends, the picture is even better. The city of Memphis has witnessed a dramatic 48 percent reduction in homicides the last eight years, along with a significant 41 percent reduction in reported robberies.”

Now, that is good. And though much of the rest of the four lawmen’s document is, well, P.R. for their offices, we’re still impressed. Keep up the fine work, men.

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We Recommend We Recommend

Wednesday, July 6, 2005

Native Son at the Flying Saucer. Di Anne Price & Her Boyfriends at Isaac Hayes Reloaded. Los Cantadores at Café Ole. Court Square Concert Series after work in Court Square with the Cody Smith Band. And now I have to beat it. I¹m feeling hot and delirious and need to head to Zinnie¹s for some help.

Categories
Politics Politics Beat Blog

POLITICS

FAIR SAILING


Reps. Stanley (left) and Kelsey

Speaking to the East Shelby Republican Club last Tuesday night, two local GOP legislators made clear what the state Republican party would make official a day later: The Tennessee Waltz scandal, along with all the publicity attendant to it over the next few months, will be a constant party talking point for the indefinite future.

“The fallout has been both good and bad,” said Representative Paul Stanley) of Germantown, the GOP’s floor leader in the state House.

What’s bad (besides the corruption itself) is that, as both he and Representative Brian Kelsey) of East Memphis pointed out, all legislators may have been tainted in the public’s eye. What’s good, as both legislators agreed, is that the scandal improves the climate for more and better ethics bills.

Governor Phil Bredesen has indicated he will call a special session this fall to deal with ethics legislation, and Stanley, while welcoming the opportunity, noted the controversy over the Democratic governor’s proposed reductions in TennCare rolls and suggested the special session might be a device to “ take attention away from it.”

Even so, said Stanley, “We need to be prepared.”

What’s also good about the ongoing scandal from the GOP point of view is that it gives Republicans a new opportunity to take the partisan gloves off, rhetorically. Example: In identifying the House State and Local Government committee as a burial ground for ethics legislation, Stanley took aim at two committee members in particular. “Ulysses Jones) and Larry Miller), who are two Shelby County Democrats, are infamous for killing these bills,” he said. (Jones is committee chairman.)

And freshman member Kelsey cast himself as an innocent in a Democratically controlled House that he made sound like a wicked place indeed. “It’s difficult to know what’s gong on in Nashville,” said Kelsey. “There’s a whole atmosphere of corruption that I didn’t know about personally.” He cited a time when he and numerous other Republicans offered a show of hands against a motion, only to hear House Speaker Jimmy Naifeh) of Covington pronounce “no objection” and declare the motion passed.

Resignation Asked of Newton; “no-shows” for Bowers)

Miscreant Republicans did not escape the two legislators’ ire, though. Noting that nominal Democrat John Wilder) had been re-elected Senate speaker despite a technical Republican majority in that body, Stanley said, “We’re weak in the Senate,” and called East Tennessee Republican senators Tim Burchett) and Mike Williams) a “big embarrassment” for giving Wilder their votes, the decisive ones, over Republican Senate leader Ron Ramsey).

That was mild, however, compared to Kelsey’s condemnation of fellow GOP House member Chris Newton) of Cleveland, one of the four legislators arrested in the Tennessee Waltz sting — and the only Republican.

Following up on Stanley’s criticism of Newton for having been one of nine House Republicans to vote for Democrat Naifeh as Speaker, Kelsey said, “I’m not saying that that vote leads to accepting bribes. But I am saying that the type of mentality in which you’re willing to get something in exchange — which would be a subcommittee chairmanship on his part — in exchange for a vote is the type of atmosphere of corruption that has taken place up there.”

Perhaps not coincidentally, the next day would see the public release of a letter to Newton from state Republican chairman Bob Davis) asking the beleaguered Cleveland legislator — considered in conservative circles to be a “RINO” (Republican in Name Only) — to resign.

In apparent anticipation of that, Stanley had similar advice Tuesday night for the accused four legislators (besides Newton, they include state senator John Ford) of Memphis, who has resigned, and two senators, Ward Crutchfield) of Chattanooga and Kathryn Bowers) of Memphis, who have not).

“I would hope they would resign,” Stanley said. “It would do the body [the General Assembly] a great favor.”

Both Stanley and Kelsey professed to be offended by Bowers’ efforts last week to solicit funds from lobbyists and others — ostensibly to defray her campaign debt from this year’s special Senate election.

As it turned out, Bowers had little luck with her two scheduled fund-raising affairs, in Nashville on Wednesday night and in Memphis, at the Embassy Suites in East Memphis, on Thursday night.

With TV cameras on hand and ready to shoot in both places, only one visitor came to Bowers’ well-catered Nashville event, while an uncounted handful at best may have showed up at the Embassy Suites, skirting around the cameras and heading to an upstairs hotel room for a private rendezvous with Bowers.

When Germantown Democrats gathered back in early June for their monthly meeting, there were two candidates on hand to offer themselves as successors to Bowers (who did resign that post) as local party chairman. By Saturday, when the club met again, the number of would-be chairmen had grown to five.

Or maybe just four. It depends on how you look at it. In addition to Joe Young) and Cherry Davis), the original two wannabes, there were now David Cocke), a two-time former chairman, and Talut El-Amin), the current acting chairman.

The fifth prospect was Matt Kuhn), a seasoned — if youngish — part-activist who introduced himself to the Germantown group as a willing draftee should factionalism prevent the consensus choice of one of the other four at the local party’s convention later this month. Kuhn declined, however, to join the others in a Q & A session following initial presentations by all five.

Anticipating a ritual protestation from other candidates that they did not themselves belong to factions, Young began his remarks with an acknowledgement that party factionalism did indeed exist.

Cocke, whom many think of as representing a “Ford” faction and Davis, considered by several to belong to a “Herenton” faction, deplored both the rumor and the fact of factionalism in eloquent, seemingly sincere speeches that surely did them no harm. So did Talut El-Amin, who has been less often pinpointed as belonging to this or that group.

None of that prevented bitterness from welling up in the Q & A — in which a number of audience members raised questions about the party’s use of local financial contributions during the 2004 election cycle and wondered aloud why the party was behind on the rent for the local Democratic headquarters.

Notable in the animated debate that followed was Cocke’s assertion that, as vice chairman last year, he did not “call the shots,” as well as Davis’ acknowledgement that “there was always this force pulling people one way or the other” during the last two years on a party executive committee that was evenly divided by what could only be called factions.

At press time, more ruckus seemed to be in store for the candidates at a candidate forum scheduled for this Tuesday night. Members of a group of newly participating Democrats now calling themselves “the Convention Coalition” posed most of the tough questions on Saturday.

Steve Haley), a first-time political candidate running for in next month’s Democratic primary election for the District 29 state Senate seat vacated by John Ford), was better able after Thursday night to put his money where his mouth is.

This was following a well-attended fund-raiser for Haley at Kudzu’s restaurant, bringing the kind of voter outreach the fledgling politician needs.

But Haley, a professor of political science at Southwest Tennessee Community College, may have a problem on his hands beyond the fact of being an underdog in a race dominated by three sitting state representatives — Henri Brooks, ) Barbara Cooper), and John DeBerry) — and Ophelia Ford), the former senator’s sister and a member of the well-known local political clan.

Among the attendees at Saturday’s meeting of Germantown Democrats was one Kevin McLellan), a former SWTN teacher himself and, like Haley, a white Democrat in a field largely populated by African Americans.

It remains to be seen how strong a campaign McLellan can make, but he made an effective presentation on Saturday and might conceivably compete for votes in Haley’s base. (And, yes, folks, demographic blocs are as much an elephant in the room of local Democratic politics as is political factionalism.)

Word from avowed members of the local Ford organization, by the way, is that family members may put aside some past difficulties with Ophelia Ford (who some years back unsuccessfully opposed brother Joe Ford) when the Shelby County Commission vote to fill the commission seat of their deceased brother, Dr. James Ford.)

The fact of Ford solidarity alone, if true, should entitle Ophelia Ford to be considered the favorite in the Democratic race. n

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We Recommend We Recommend

Tuesday, July 5, 2005

Jim Spake and Jim Duckworth at Fresh Slices Sidewalk Café & Deli. And I am telling you, if you haven¹t tried the new tapas menu at Dish (formerly Mélange) in Cooper-Young, you are missing out on some of the best food in Memphis. ‹ Tim Sampson

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We Recommend We Recommend

Monday, July 4, 2005

Today is, of course, the July 4th holiday, but it looks like most of the festivities happened over the weekend. You can catch The Memphis Redbirds tonight against Omaha at AutoZone Park. Or you could get out in the great outdoors and go to the Sierra Club Picnic starting at 2 p.m. in Meeman-Shelby Forest State Park, which includes the picnic, canoeing, and kayaking. ‹ Tim Sampson

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We Recommend We Recommend

Sunday, July 3, 2005

Today¹s annual St. Peter Home Picnic at St. Peter Village is one of Memphis¹ oldest traditions and features live music, food, a petting zoo, and children¹s activities. Today¹s Red, White, and Blues Celebration in Tom Lee Park and on Beale Street includes live music, a motorcycle cavalcade, and fireworks. And FreeWorld is at Huey¹s Midtown this afternoon (and later tonight at Blues City Café), followed by Watermelon Slim & the Workmen. (And Happy Birthday to some friends of mine ‹ Sahara, Byron, and Puddin¹!) ‹ Tim Sampson

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News The Fly-By

GIMME FIFTY DOLLA!

The Commercial Appeal recently ran a brilliant bit of accidental comedy about Memphis panhandling laws. According to the daily, “Forbidden panhandling behavior includes using profane or abusive language, panhandling in a group of two or more, acting in an intimidating or physically obstructive manner. It is forbidden to misrepresent the purpose of the donation, such as that it is for food when it is for illegal drugs, or that the panhandler is stranded or homeless, when he or she is not. The penalty is no more than $50 per offense.” With all these strictly enforced rules, how¹s a man supposed to get a bottle of the bumpy?