Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

In Their Cups

Ugly Mug Coffee started out in 1998 as a coffee shop near the intersection of Poplar and Highland, a gathering place for University of Memphis students. Back then, the shop was known for its free refills and for the fact that patrons could bring their own coffee mugs. Co-founders Mark Ottinger and Tim Burleson like to joke that the idea for the Ugly Mug’s name came from either Mark or Tim (depending on who’s telling the story) having such an ugly mug. The real story is that one day a customer walked into the shop, looked at the hundreds of mugs on the wall, and said, “That wall is full of ugly mugs.” The name stuck.  

In its early years of operation, Ugly Mug was more about the place — and supporting the local student community — than the coffee. But when Burleson and Ottinger were forced to make a choice between roasting their own coffee and keeping the shop open, they made the tough decision to close their retail operation. From that point forward, the pair dedicated themselves to getting the best-quality coffee for their customers and to buying only certified fair-trade coffee.   

At the time, Burleson had no idea how complicated the roasting business would be — as complex as brewing beer or producing a good bottle of wine. He and Ottinger visited various coffee plantations, where they tasted a lot of bad coffee and discovered that each country has its own grading system, based on bean size, altitude at which the coffee is grown, color, moisture, and taste. To complicate things even more, the coffee-roasting process is as tricky as choosing the beans. Through the three stages of roasting, during which the beans turn from green to yellow to light brown to dark brown, some 1,200 chemical compounds are changed in ways that augment the flavor, acidity, aftertaste, and body of the coffee. And that’s all in just 10 to 20 minutes. 

Ugly Mug launched its first full line of fair-trade, organic coffee in September 2002. In the beginning, the company didn’t do much in terms of marketing. The theory was, if they taste it, they will come. The company got the word out through local craft shows, Junior League shows, any venue where Ugly Mug could get people to try its coffee. Slowly but surely, the strategy worked: In 2003, Ugly Mug caught on with local grocers such as Miss Cordelia’s and Square Foods, and in March 2004, the coffee company landed its first major grocery store, Schnucks. A few months later, the business formed an agreement with the Memphis Grizzlies and the FedExForum to sell its coffee at the arena. And in October 2005, Ugly Mug made its first push to introduce its coffee outside the Mid-South, going to trade shows in 30 cities in just six weeks. It now sells to every state on the eastern seaboard, in addition to Alabama, Arkansas, Mississippi, Missouri, and — of course — Tennessee. 

Ugly Mug’s latest endeavor is its Elvis coffee, introduced in November 2005. For now, Elvis coffee includes just four limited-edition holiday blends. In the works are a Limited Edition Elvis Collector’s Series, Elvis hot chocolate, and an Elvis house blend. The coffee has garnered fans from all over the country — and the world. Just after the release of the Elvis coffee, Ugly Mug received more than 100 voice-mail messages, some in German, Japanese, and French. To date, the company has sent out shipments to all 50 states and 20 countries.

Now that the company is more established, Burleson says he and Ottinger hope to open another shop. It’s all about timing, he says. In the meantime, the easiest way to get your Ugly Mug fix is to have it delivered directly to your door — no taxes, no shipping fees. All coffee is roasted to order, which means the beans haven’t been sitting around for more than three or four days. 

For additional information about Ugly Mug coffee — including some quirky profiles of the company’s staff members — go to www.uglymugcoffee.com.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

On a Roll

Rising Roll Gourmet, a family-owned, Atlanta-based franchise, recently opened its first location in the Memphis area. The upscale deli has received high marks in past editions of Zagat for its gourmet sandwiches.

Started in Atlanta in 1996 as Uptown Gourmet Sandwich Company, owners Jeff and Bob Weiss soon realized they had struck a chord with customers who appreciated good, affordable food that was made fresh every day at a place with an “at home” atmosphere.

The food at Rising Roll is based mainly on family recipes, and while they provide a large selection of healthy and nutritious meals, they also have an indulgent side. Healthy options include the California Turkey sandwich (with oven-roasted turkey, guacamole, provolone, lettuce, tomatoes, and mayo), the Garden Salad, and the Original Veggie. Then there are combinations such as the Killer Bleu Turkey (a turkey sandwich with crumbled blue cheese, bacon, tomatoes, and Thousand Island dressing), Roast Pork Caliente (with aged Wisconsin Farm’s Cheddar and Roma mozzarella, creamy horseradish sauce, and double-smoked bacon), and the Spicy Crab (a crab cake topped with chipotle mayonnaise, pepper jack, and coleslaw). Bread choices include seven-grain, Swiss and Romano, rye, sourdough, French, croissants, and flavored wraps. To top it off, there’s a changing variety of Killer Cookies.

Rising Roll is open Monday through Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Rising Roll Gourmet, 7730 Wolf River Blvd. (737-8600)

Petra is an archaeological site in Jordan. It lies in a basin among the mountains that form the eastern flank of Wadi Araba, the great valley running from the Dead Sea to the Gulf of Aqaba. Petra is famous for having many stone structures carved into the rock, and it lent its name to a local restaurant: Petra Café on Poplar in Collierville. (Not to be confused with Petra on Madison Avenue in Memphis. The two restaurants are not affiliated.)

“We serve Mediterranean food, which means there are many influences — Greek, Italian, Turkish, Middle Eastern, all that,” says Lisa Douba, wife of Jamal Douba, owner of Petra Café.

Petra offers gyros, falafel, one of the city’s largest panini selections (including three vegetarian paninis and a zesty gyro panini), freshly made hummus, and tabbouleh. If that seems familiar, it’s no coincidence. Jamal Douba isn’t a novice in the restaurant business. He used to own Sadde’s on Poplar, located a couple blocks west of Highland in the space that’s now Raffe’s Deli. (Al Sakan, Raffe’s owner, is Douba’s cousin.)

“Jamal wanted a restaurant where people could stay to eat and enjoy their meal, and Sadde’s was a convenience-store deli,” says Lisa Douba. “So just over five years ago, we decided to open Petra Café in the Wolfchase area.”

Petra has since moved to Collierville, and the Doubas plan to open a second location in Germantown at 6641 Poplar early next year.

Although the tables are set with white tablecloths, the atmosphere is laid-back. For lunch, the restaurant serves an extensive selection of sandwiches, muffulletas, salads, and the like. Dinner brings a variety of lamb entrees and seafood dishes such as seared halibut, and kabobs. Diners are welcome to bring a bottle of wine; the restaurant currently doesn’t charge a corkage fee but is in the process of applying for a wine license.

Petra Café is open Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 8 p.m., and on Friday and Saturday for dinner only, 5 to 9 p.m.

Petra Café, 2140 Poplar, Collierville (853-3521)

If you’d like to try something new this holiday season and give candy instead of cookies to your friends and family, Mary Carter, Cake Decorating and Supply Center, has you covered. The store will offer a free candy-making class on Sunday, December 10th, from 2 to 4 p.m. No reservations are required, and you can bring a friend.

Mary Carter, 3205 Summer (452-1233)

siba@gmx.com

Categories
Film Features Film/TV

Rancid

Mel Gibson’s new film, Apocalypto, is a rancid salmagundi that mixes the Raiders of the Lost Ark trilogy, The Fugitive, and the Three Stooges into one of the most punishing movie experiences of the year. It’s the cinematic equivalent of being held down by older siblings while they dangle ropes of spittle above your forehead.

Gibson’s intentions are suspicious immediately. After a solemn Will Durant quotation about conquered societies that destroy themselves before outsiders come to destroy them — is Gibson trying to justify the rapacity and savagery of the European explorers by showing us that the New World’s original inhabitants were nasty too? — Apocalypto‘s opening scenes depict the everyday lives of a peaceful, jocular tribe who live and hunt among the bright green foliage of the Mexican jungle. Alas, their peaceful existence is interrupted by a sneak attack from a vicious warrior army, which captures the villagers and sells them as slaves. The film’s hero is the villager-turned-prisoner Jaguar Paw, who risks certain death and narrative plausibility countless times as he tries to return home to his wife and son, whom he has hidden in a well near the ashes of his former village.

As a human drama, Apocalypto is shallow even by the standards of the most calculating blockbuster. Fear is a weakness, and revenge is the only sustenance a starving prisoner needs. As an adventure story, the film is contrived at best and ludicrous at worst. How many starving prisoners can outrun a jaguar in the jungle? As a historical epic and anthropological inquiry, the film is a disgrace. To pick one example, the so-called Mayan sacrificial rituals are actually much closer to Aztec practices. Gibson’s inattention to such cultural differences is consistent with the still-shameful history of American adventure-film casting, where the word “Indian” means “savage” or “person in a loincloth” or, at the very least “someone with reddish-brown skin.” But maybe audiences don’t want cultural knowledge or historical understanding. Judging from the financial success of Gibson’s previous film, The Passion of the Christ, maybe all they want are troughs and troughs of gore, often filmed in shocking close-up and hammered home with as many sinew-splitting and bone-crunching sound effects as possible.

Let’s start with the animal-based brutality: A tapir is impaled on a gruesome trap, a mother uses insect heads to cauterize a son’s wound, small animals are tortured by heartless city children, a woman beats a monkey to death, and a jaguar is speared by some angry savages. Gibson also lingers on the human atrocities with psychotic concentration: A man’s temple is cut to reduce the swelling from a blow to the head, a man crashes into the rocks beneath a waterfall, and a jaguar (remember him?) gnaws a hunter’s face off. There are throat-slittings, disembowelments, beheadings, organs ripped steaming from victims, you name it. Oh, and the tapir-trap gag is reprised as well. Either this catalog of atrocities will thrill you or disgust you; I was disgusted and then bitterly bemused by the onslaught of Gibson’s brutalities.

From any perspective, Apocalypto is a work of staggering incompetence.

Apocalypto

Opening Friday, December 8th

Multiple locations

Categories
Film Features Film/TV

The awful truth about The Holiday: average.

There are, sadly, still so few women directors consistently turning out feature films that Nancy Meyers is considered an auteur. Meyers, who made her name in the 1980s as the screenwriter for comedy hits Private Benjamin and Baby Boom, has, in this decade, moved behind the camera for a series of indistinct, pandering, but still successful romantic comedies, starting with the high-concept Mel Gibson vehicle What Women Want (2000) and continuing with the Jack Nicholson/Diane Keaton-pairing Something’s Gotta Give (2003). That The Holiday is the best of the bunch just shows you what happens when you resist the urge to cast the egomaniacal likes of Gibson and Nicholson as rom-com leading men.

The Holiday, which Meyers also scripted, is based on a solid genre premise: London journalist Iris (Kate Winslet), a sad-sack Bridget Jones, and Los Angeles film-trailer director Amanda (Cameron Diaz), a sunny California girl, are both dealing with bad breakups and want to get out of town for the holidays. They find each other on a house-swap Web site and decide to switch cities for a couple of weeks. In England, Amanda meets and falls for Iris’ foxy brother Graham (Jude Law). In California, Iris strikes up a promising friendship with film composer Miles (Jack Black).

But, despite a fruitful set-up, flaws are abundant, starting with some class-bound real-estate porn familiar from Meyers’ previous films. Meyers incorporates lots of rhyming across her parallel storylines, and much of it works: Amanda is incapable of crying; Iris can’t stop. One particularly witty visual motif is the same stack of untouched book-club faves (The Corrections, The Kite Runner) languishing on a nightstand in each house. But Meyers falls flat in having each heroine totally rock out, dude, to predictable but out-of-character modern-rock hits that happen to come on the radio. Diaz has made similar moments of silly comic abandon work before (charming us by dancing in her Underoos in the otherwise worthless Charlie’s Angels, for instance), but she just looks silly squealing like a schoolgirl at the sound of the Killers’ “Mr. Brightside.” And when Winslet is forced to play one-woman-air-band to Jet’s “Are You Gonna Be My Girl,” you just feel sorry for her.

A recurring bit where a booming film-trailer voice-over analyzes Amanda’s life almost sinks the movie, but The Holiday ends up working despite these hurdles. Diaz struggles early, but for the most part the leads acquit themselves well, particularly the Brits. And Law, surprisingly, steals the movie with juicy line readings.

Jack Black doesn’t get a whole lot of screen time. Iris’ real companion for much of her trip is a retired, Oscar-winning screenwriter who gives her a list of classic romantic comedies to see, which has Iris raving about Irene Dunne and The Lady Eve and watching His Girl Friday with Miles.

Meyers gets points for acknowledging the greats, and if the references lead even one unknowing viewer to the video store, it’s worth it. But this bit also comes off as more than a little self-congratulatory. Citing the classics doesn’t put you in their company, and while Meyers’ movie is okay, it sure ain’t The Awful Truth.

The Holiday

Opening Friday, December 8th

Multiple locations

Categories
Opinion The Last Word

The Rant

It was with great good fortune that I got to spend Thanksgiving near Boca Grande, a beautiful island off the Florida coast. Granted, it’s nowhere near the Galapagos Islands, but all the wildlife here still makes one think of the wonders of nature and man’s relationship to it.

Boca Grande (also called “Gasparilla” Island, which loosely translated means light-skinned and very rich) is overrun with iguanas, which are nasty-looking lizards. They eat plant life and hang around people’s homes looking really, really ugly. This problem all started with some crazy rich lady on the island who decided to raise a few of these nasty docile creatures as pets. I guess she thought they were cute. It’s the same way Kevin Federline got to Malibu.

The unfortunate thing about nature is that the most vile creatures tend to breed at an alarming rate, and again I reference Kevin Federline’s short two-baby marriage to Britney Spears. The iguanas of Boca Grande are also apparently going at it like rabbits, and now they are all over the island. In response, the residents voted to hire a trapper and other pest-riddance entrepreneurs to kill the iguanas in hopes of slowing their population growth. I saw one of these trapper guys in downtown Boca Grande, and I had to go talk to him. The one thing I have learned on this earth is if you get a chance to talk to a gent who chases varmints for a living, you just have to stop what you are doing and savor the moment.

Indeed, I knew we would get along as soon as I read the sign on his 10-year-old truck which advertises that he is both an animal trapper and a taxidermist. You would not think these two skills would be transferable, but this guy is a modern-day Renaissance man. I jokingly asked him if there was anything that he would not mount. He, in a clearly much rehearsed but still self-amused manner, said, “Well, I would never mount a man’s wife, unless, of course, she is game!”

After that, I felt like I had to buy the guy a beer at a local haunt called the Temptation. And, if you can imagine this, the trapper-taxidermist really likes to drink. After explaining to me the events leading up to about 17 of his 25 scars, we discussed how the Animal Rights Foundation of Florida (ARFF) and PETA (which I think stands for People Entirely Too Angst-y) have come to the island to fight the slaughter of innocent iguanas. The island residents and PETA differ in their approach to this. Islanders want to capture and freeze the iguanas at the cost of $20 per lizard. PETA, on the other hand, wants to capture, provide housing, union job training, and food stamps for the lizards until they can register them as Democratic voters.

This issue brings to light the classic paradox of wealthy human families. The Economic Engine who made the money to afford the beach house is usually tough and conservative. Next in the life cycle come the soft and often directionless kids who were sent to liberal schools and stand for everything their parents don’t. These offspring find silly causes to demonstrate the compassion they think their parents lack. It’s a case of biting the hand that feeds them — if only they ate meat.

My conversation with the trapper continued. I asked him about various animals and how they behaved. It was like watching an Animal Channel documentary produced by Playboy. Most of his insight into animals tended to focus on their mating habits, much like the articles in People magazine.

He told me of a recent study that determined that male apes seek out the oldest female they can find to mate with. We both were confounded by this. Yet, on the bright side, it is the strongest evidence yet that modern man did not evolve from apes.

Human women are attracted to different traits in males than female apes are. Fortunately for males on Boca Grande, chief among those traits are a boat and a beach house. There is no recorded history of female gorillas being attracted to male gorillas for this reason, if you do not count Maria Shriver.

My suggestion for the islanders to rid themselves of the iguanas in short order would be to send free bus fare to some good-ole-boy hunters from my home state of Tennessee and put them up at the Gasparilla Inn for a few days. Not only would the island be lizard-free, it would soon be PETA-activist-free as well.

Ron Hart is a columnist and investor in Atlanta. He worked for Goldman Sachs and was appointed to the Tennessee Board of Regents by Lamar Alexander. His e-mail: RevRon10@aol.com.

Categories
News

Help Find Vaginica Seaman

Look, folks, all we do is report the insanity. We couldn’t make this stuff up if we tried to. There’s a new Website in Great Britain devoted to finding David Gest’s Memphis maid, Vaginica Seaman.

You may remember, a couple weeks back, that we reported the London Sun had called the Flyer offices asking us to send a reporter to Gest’s riverbluff house to talk to his maid and verify her name. Due to the long-distance connection and the incomprehensible British accent on the other end, our reporter thought they said his maid’s name was “Vagina.”

But no, it’s Vaginica. And they’re still looking for her.

Categories
News

Lisa Marie Presley is a Helpful Mom

Elvis Presley’s granddaughter, Riley Keough, is apparently dating singer (and Ashlee Simpson ex) Ryan Cabrera. But in pictures posted on PerezHilton.com, mother Lisa Marie gets into the act, too. Lisa Marie strokes Riley’s hair — or maybe she’s moving it out of the way of her mouth — as Riley and Cabrera make out. Check out the pic.

Categories
News News Feature

On the Dixon and Hooks Sentences

Everyone’s wondering who’s next in Tennessee Waltz and Main Street Sweeper.

Who else did Joe Cooper give up? Who did Michael Hooks give up to get such lenience? Did Roscoe Dixon drop any names before he checked into prison? And so on.

Going on two years after the first Tennessee Waltz indictments were handed up, this seems clear:

First, talk is cheap, but federal prosecutors are going to make a political corruption case against someone when they have tapes – preferably both audio and videotapes and preferably of more than one incriminating meeting.

Second, cooperation and taking blame pays big time. And going to trial, testifying, and publicly questioning the government’s case will cost you big time.

Tapes made by undercover cooperating witnesses Tim Willis and Cooper nailed Dixon, Hooks, John Ford, Kathryn Bowers, Edmund Ford, and Rickey Peete. The names of several other Memphis politicians and developers have come up, but none of them has been indicted. It’s a lot easier to convince a jury and the general public when you have pictures and tapes of money changing hands. A paper trail combined with the testimony of convicted felons like we saw in the 1993 trial of Harold Ford Sr. doesn’t cut it these days. The government lost that case.

If you’re not on tape, you might escape.

On the second point, Hooks got 26 months while Dixon got 63 months. The offenses are more alike than different. Both took money for influence from representatives of the fictional E-Cycle Management company. In fact, Hooks took over $24,000, while Dixon only got $9,500, some of which he gave away. Neither man had a criminal record.

So what’s the difference?

Dixon went to trial, lied to the FBI in a last-chance interview, and testified falsely on the witness stand. He consistently said he was trapped and selectively targeted. He was sentenced by U.S. District Judge Jon McCalla.

Hooks pleaded guilty. He blamed himself. He was woeful, abject, remorseful, self-critical, unflinching before the media. He asked only his attorney, Steve Farese, to plead for lenience at his sentencing. He is the nephew of esteemed former judge and civil rights leader Benjamin Hooks, who was in court Wednesday. He was sentenced by U.S. District Judge Daniel Breen.

Conclusion: Exercising your right to trial by jury, as thousands of violent criminals do at public expense each week, can cost you in a political corruption case. It can cost you financially and cost you in terms of prison time.

Sentencing guidelines are just that, guidelines, and McCalla is a harsher sentencer than Breen, at least in this context.

Finally, there is no constitutional foundation for this, but it pays to say you’re sorry, really really sorry. Comparing the sentences of Dixon and Hooks, Dixon got an extra three years – more time that Hooks’ entire sentence – not because he committed a more serious crime or had a different criminal history but because he exercised his constitutional right and did not say he was sorry, or at least not as convincingly as Michael Hooks did. This should be food for thought for ordinary law-abiding Memphians as well as Rickey Peete and Edmund Ford and the rest.

By John Branston

Categories
Sports Sports Feature

Inside the Griz

“Hate to start with a negative after a rare Griz win, but how did Damon Stoudamire stay on the floor for 13 minutes tonight? Stoudamire’s stat-line (1-4, with 4 turnovers and 4 personal fouls) doesn’t even begin to tell the story. Poor guy could barely walk out there. I’ve suggested it before, but I’ll just come out and say it now: Stoudamire will not play out his contract.”

Read more of Chris Herrington’s insights on the Griz at Beyond the Arc, the Flyer‘s GrizBlog.

Categories
News

Joe Cooper and William H. Thomas Were Partners in Land Deal

Billboard lobbyist Joe Cooper and his client William H. Thomas were also partners in buying a piece of land on Poplar Avenue across from Bud Davis Cadillac, court records show.

The sale is now the subject of a civil lawsuit filed by developer Jackie Welch. Cooper and Thomas are each named as defendants. Welch seeks payment of a real estate commission worth approximately $40,000 for brokering the sale of the land to a bank.

Cooper helped Thomas win approval from the Memphis City Council of a billboard proposal and zoning change for the Steve Road Planned Development off I-240 near Getwell. A federal criminal complaint made public last week says Cooper, while working undercover for the FBI, paid bribes to city councilmen Rickey Peete and Edmund Ford.

City council members say Thomas is a land developer who occasionally has billboard business before the planning office and council. He has not made any public comments and declined to return the Flyer’s call.

The address of Thomas’s office on Sanderlin (but not his name) is listed in the criminal complaint against Cooper. The complaint says Cooper sold cars from Bud Davis Cadillac to drug dealers using the names of other people to secure the titles. — John Branston