Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Booking It

Magellan Press, which in the late 1990s published Where the Locals Eat — A Guide to the Best Restaurants in America, recently released a revised, updated, and slimmer version of the mammoth original. The 2007 Where the Locals Eat lists the 100 best restaurants in 50 cities.

“Bill King, our publisher, had the idea for the initial book and gathered a lot of the information during his travels,” editor Rachel Lawson says. “It was a huge book, and we had been thinking about updating it for a while.”

For the new dining guide, the focus was narrowed to the 50 largest cities by population. Magellan randomly sent restaurant surveys to a number of people in each city and relied on local media and food writers to fill in the gaps.

In the Memphis section, Central BBQ, Chez Philippe, Folk’s Folly, McEwen’s on Monroe, Rendezvous, Ronnie Grisanti & Sons, and others are included.

No question, it’s a challenge to publish a dining book, especially when many restaurants close before their second anniversary. Magellan hopes to buffer this by soon offering an interactive website that allows users to rate restaurants, keep a list of their favorite restaurants, and chat with friends about dinner options.

wherethelocalseat.com

Patrick and Gina Neely, owners of Neely’s Bar-B-Que, will debut their Food Network show Down Home with the Neelys on February 2nd at 9 a.m.

The Neelys are no newcomers to the Food Network, having been featured on shows with Paula Deen, Al Roker, and Bobby Flay. February episodes of their own show include “Sunday Supper,” where the couple re-create family staples such as their signature barbecue ribs and Mama’s Strawberry Shortcut Cake; “Get Out of My Way,” which takes a look at the foods that Gina craves, from fried pork chops and vegetable soup to grilled pound-cake sundaes; and “Courting Pat,” during which Gina will cook the recipes that helped her win her husband’s heart.

For a schedule of Down Home with the Neelys and for more information about the show, visit foodnetwork.com.

Gourmet, the national food magazine, pays tribute to Southern food in its January issue. The jam-filled biscuits on the magazine’s cover may be all it takes to lure you into the kitchen to whip up your own batch or to ask Grandma for her recipe for homemade jelly. In addition to recipes for fried chicken, shrimp and grits, lemon meringue pie, coconut layer cake, oyster stew, and brandied peach pork chops, the magazine includes a previously unpublished essay by the late chef, cookbook author, and grande dame of Southern cooking, Edna Lewis, who looks at the big question of what is Southern.

In its annual list of 100 outstanding food items, experiences, ingredients, gadgets, foodies, and more, Saveur, another national food magazine, placed competition barbecue as number one, claiming it as our “most beloved national pastime.” Nothing new to Memphians and all those visitors who descend on the city every year for the Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest.

saveur.com

Cookbook collectors and home chefs looking to expand their library of culinary knowledge can take advantage of the Greenwood, Mississippi-based Turn Row Book Company’s Chef’s Library.

Described as a new “culinary book club,” the Chef’s Library allows you to choose between the “premium library,” which is a subscription of 12 cookbooks and books about food, and the “cookbook library,” which features between six and eight book picks for the year. It’s free to join the club. Members pay only the price of the books (average cost between $25 and $45) and a shipping fee of $6. The 2007 selections included Cat Cora’s Cooking from the Hip, the Lee Brothers’ Southern Cookbook, and Dave Pasternack’s The Young Man and the Sea. As an additional free service, Turn Row will wrap the book jackets in splatter-proof mylar covers.

turnrowbooks.com

A new addition to the Brooks Museum’s Art of Good Taste series is its Warm Up to Wine class, which offers participants an opportunity to learn more about wines from around the world with other wine newcomers. The next class, on Thursday, January 17th, at 6:30 p.m., features French wine and champagne and includes six pours, hors d’oeuvres, and instructions on how to taste, what to buy, and how to pair food and wine.

Price for the class is $25 for museum members and $30 for nonmembers. For more information and to buy tickets, call 544-6209.

Memphis Brooks Museum of Art, 1934 Poplar
brooksmuseum.org

Categories
Film Features Film/TV

The Ugly American

Paul Thomas Anderson’s There Will Be Blood is an implacable, unstoppable juggernaut of historical phantasmagoria and sheer strangeness adapted from the opening chapters of Upton Sinclair’s muckraking 1927 novel Oil!. While it has its set pieces, notably an apocalyptic oil fire, the film is a stylistic changeup for Anderson, a director previously known as a bit of a technical daredevil. As he charts the rise to power of California prospector turned oil magnate Daniel Plainview (Daniel Day-Lewis), Anderson reins in his camera pyrotechnics and slowly works his way through a big, sprawling, violent American landscape with deliberate care that borders on reverence. For better and worse, the end result is one of the damnedest things you’ll see at the movies all year.

The first part of the film inches along with the kind of righteous, artless blunt force that Sinclair summoned in his 1906 meatpacking exposé The Jungle. The great potential riches of the oil fields are always checked by the deadly working conditions of early-20th-century mining and drilling. Although dialogue is minimal in these opening scenes, Radiohead guitarist Jonny Greenwood’s menacing score barges in at the beginning and refuses to shut up. Watching the film, you start to feel like you’re inside a dangerous factory as it’s being built.

Alas, melodrama is even slipperier to handle than sweet, light crude. The second half of the film is as strange as the first, but it settles into a much more familiar shape as Day-Lewis’ aging, distant plutocrat mows down everyone who faces him. But this predictability and conventionality was tipped off much earlier. You can hear it in the names of the characters. This is a film where Plainview’s nemesis (Paul Dano) is a fiery evangelical minister named Eli Sunday. Sure enough, “E lies” like all them other folks in the fire-and-brimstone crowd do. You half-expect Day-Lewis’ business rivals to be named Bilkemoor and Steele, and you are more than a little shocked when he doesn’t fall in love with a woman named Prudence Goodwife.

But the slow burn of the finish never dims Day-Lewis’ electrifying performance. Taken collectively, his historical re-creations of American men are impressive in their range, depth, and symbolic force: In 1992’s Last of the Mohicans, he personified guileless strength. In 1993’s The Age of Innocence, he exemplified upper-class male cowardice. In 1996, he assayed frontier stubbornness in The Crucible. And he was probably the best thing in 2002’s Gangs of New York, playing a racist nut on the urban frontier. Now he embodies rampant capitalist aggression, and there’s a sense of finality in his performance, because it touches on all of the ugly Americans he’s played in the past.

Just like that indomitable showman P.T. Barnum, P.T. Anderson loves the freaky side of human nature, and this fascination is clearest in the film’s final showdown in a private bowling alley. Symbolism and political sophistication melt away as the scene explodes in bombast, metaphor, tenpins, and stale meat. He shows us two charlatans duking it out, two hucksters conning each other to death. The scene may be all punk political disdain and histrionic shouting, but as Plainview says earlier, it’s a helluva goddamn good show too.

There Will Be Blood

Opening Friday, January 18th

Studio on the Square

Categories
Film Features Film/TV

A visionary, legitimately inspirational biopic.

The Diving Bell and the Butterfly is a visionary celebration of language, women, food, memory, the imagination, the creative impulse, and (somewhat strangely) all the wonderful, life-affirming things you could be doing instead of watching movies. Through some daring subjective camerawork and many beautifully nuanced performances, Julian Schnabel’s new biopic is genuinely inspirational.

After an opening-titles montage of X-ray pictures scored to a French version of “Beyond the Sea,” the film opens when Elle magazine editor Jean-Dominic Bauby (Mathieu Amalric) awakens from a three-week coma. And for 15 gorgeous, startling minutes, we see the world entirely from Bauby’s extremely and mysteriously limited point of view. Like him, we are confused and disoriented: It is hard to separate dreams from flashbacks, and the random visits by medical professionals only increase the uncertainty and anxiety. Gradually, Bauby and the audience learn that he has suffered a massive stroke, leaving him a completely paralyzed victim of “locked-in syndrome.” His mind is intact, but his body is almost totally immobile.

This opening sequence is as profound an examination of the limitations of subjectivity as Hitchcock’s Rear Window. For the first time in a long while, moviegoers are reminded of the sheer wonder of seeing things: hallways, curtains, windows, sunlight, human faces. This fragility of vision is most powerful in the scene when Bauby’s right eye is sewn shut. As the screen slowly changes to pinkish-black, the effect is invasive and upsetting; it’s like an improbable reverse shot from the notorious eye-slashing opening sequence of Un Chien Andalou.

Eventually, Bauby’s range of motion is limited to his left eye. But after some dark nights of the soul and a dressing-down by his nurse Henriette (a radiant Marie-Josée Croze), he comes to terms with his new existence and embarks on writing a memoir of his experiences. The ingenious system of communication (and later, dictation) Henriette devises is simple, effective, and agonizingly slow. At times, you’ll feel like you’re trapped in a spelling bee at a French elementary school, but struggle and patience are essential to conveying Bauby’s willpower and lust for life.

Amalric — who also appears as a healthy Bauby in several important flashbacks — delivers a performance of great delicacy and wit. And his wit energizes the film. Bauby’s observant, ironic voiceover is disarmingly, consistently funny, especially in one scene when he silently begs for mercy as a gorgeous speech therapist, in an attempt to teach him how to swallow, lolls her tongue around her mouth just inches from his face. In another scene, he chastises Henriette when she takes offense at some wisecracks at Bauby’s expense. He laughs loudly at the remarks: “Ah, Henriette,” he sighs, “you have no sense of humor.”

This rueful joy at the ways of the world is also expressed through some flashbacks showing Bauby’s relationship with his ailing father (Max von Sydow). Von Sydow, given a chance to really act after years of playing demonic heavies in Hollywood blockbusters, does not waste the opportunity. His sad, graceful performance is entirely in tune with this delicate, wondrous work.

The Diving Bell and the Butterfly

Opening Friday, January 18th

Ridgeway Four

Categories
Opinion The Last Word

The Rant

I’m reading a collection of short stories by Rudyard Kipling. Some of them are set in Afghanistan, where the British were fighting the Afghans in the 1800s. Funny how in 2008, the British are back in Afghanistan fighting the Afghans.

You would think that three wars with the Afghans would be enough, but apparently the imperial impulse dies hard, even after the original British Empire has left Great Britain a third-rate country whose leaders seem to think they have no choice but to play tag-along behind the Americans.

The North Atlantic Treaty Organization has no reason to exist, let alone be in Afghanistan. It is a relic of the Cold War that should have been disbanded when the Russians disbanded the Warsaw Pact. The American establishment, however, seems to think it is a handy way to drag the Europeans into our own imperial schemes.

Nevertheless, American forces have been in Afghanistan for five years now, and American officials keep saying the Afghan army is not ready to defend the country. They say the same thing about the Iraq army. Funny, we can take a kid out of high school, give him 16 weeks of training, and ship him off to combat, where he gives a pretty good account of himself. Why has it taken five years to field an army in Iraq and Afghanistan? I’ve never been able to get an intelligent answer to that question. I suspect the real answer is that the American government does not plan to leave either country for a very long time.

There is a lot of oil in one country and a route for a pipeline in the other. The U.S. seems to have decided to replay the “Great Game” with Russia over the Caspian Sea petroleum resources, just as the British Empire once played it with the Russian Empire when both had their eyes on India.

As most of you know, I would prefer that we abandon our empire, for it is, like every other empire in history, bleeding us of treasure and blood. We don’t need to have troops in South Korea, Japan, Germany, the Balkans, and the Middle East. None of those countries is a threat to us, and all of them are capable of defending themselves. We have many domestic problems that need both the attention and the resources of our government.

Of course, journalists have as much influence on national and international affairs as a fan sitting in the bleachers has on the management of a professional baseball team. We can only observe and cheer or jeer. Voters are the only plain people who can influence foreign policy, but they can only do it if they choose intelligently which politicians to retain in office and which ones to dump.

The American establishment, by and large, excludes the people from any discussion of foreign policy. Other than as a recipient of propaganda, we have no part to play in setting the policy of our own government. We should object to that on principle, but most Americans have little interest in foreign affairs.

Perhaps when the traditional population has been replaced (or should I say displaced) by new immigrants, which shouldn’t take that long at the present rate, the newly arrived citizens will be more interested in foreign affairs. By then, we should be multilingual as well as multicultural. We might even get a president who can read a foreign newspaper.

I am, at least, preparing for the future by developing a taste for Chinese, Korean, Vietnamese, Arab, Hungarian, French, Persian, and Slovakian cuisine. All are easily available in the middle-class American city where I live. That in itself ought to tell you something.

Charley Reese has been a journalist for 50 years.

Categories
Film Features Film/TV

The Savages

The Savages teams Laura Linney with Philip Seymour Hoffman, the Robert De Niro and Al Pacino of the crummy-looking, myopic indie film. They play a pair of muttery, slovenly, small-minded siblings forced to take care of their ailing father (Phillip Bosco) once his live-in girlfriend dies. If you’ve seen either actor in Willy Loman mode, then you can tick off their dull virtuoso moments with ease: Hoffman explodes in rage, Linney implodes in front of God and everybody, and later in the movie they mumble phony, “revelatory” apologies to one another.

Fortunately, as unsurprising as either lead is, writer-director Tamara Jenkins’ direction is a little friskier at first. She photographs the Arizona desert where Bosco lives in hyper-saturated slo-motion as if mocking the opening montage of Blue Velvet. But I’ll be damned if I can guess why she did it, because she pulls up stakes 10 minutes into the film and moves the action to downbeat, dirty Buffalo, inadvertently (or perhaps deliberately) eliminating the possibility of a decent-looking scene, shot, or image in the process.

Some of us are at the age where our parents can delight in their grandchildren and complain about taking care of their own parents in the same breath. Elder care is a serious and not always pleasant subject. But can it be mined for comic material? I wonder. It would probably require a lighter touch, more sensitive and generous actors, and more free-floating compassion than anyone in this lukewarm and ugly-looking film can muster.

Opens Friday, January 18th, at Studio on the Square

Categories
News

About That Barack Obama E-Mail …

Flyer editor Bruce VanWyngarden asks: “What kind of complete idiot sends out an e-mail full of lies to millions of people and then includes a link to a site that disproves those lies?”

Find out here.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

McEwen’s On Monroe Sold

McEwen’s on Monroe is one of those restaurants that seems inseparably connected to its owner. Ten years ago, Mac Edwards, along with his wife Cindy, opened McEwen’s — named after their then-six-year-old niece Frances McEwen Edwards — in the space vacated by the old Red Rooster restaurant. Mac turned out the food, while his wife waited on customers. As the number of guests grew, so did the staff and the restaurant’s space, which expanded to include a bar area and offices in 1999 and a wine cellar for private parties in 2001.

Recently, however, Edwards decided it was time to move on. He’s sold the business to Bert Smythe, who will take over the restaurant with business partner and long-time friend John Littlefield at the beginning of February.

“Owning and running a restaurant is a lot of work, and we had a good time doing it,” Edwards says. “But now we’re at a point where we feel it’s okay for someone else to have a good time.” Edwards has no plans to retire to Florida or travel the world — he simply feels it’s time to step down.

“There aren’t many people I would have considered as possible new owners, but I’ve known Bert for some 20 years and we have worked together on many jobs. I know that’s what he wants and I know he can pull it off,” Edwards says.

Smythe has an extensive background working in area restaurants. Among his many jobs, he helped open Lulu Grill and worked as its manager. He managed Maxwell’s (now Dish) for two years and worked for Erling Jensen at his namesake restaurant for 10 years before taking a position as manager of catering operations at AutoZone Park.

“When I told my boss [I was leaving], he said that when he hired me he knew that we would have this conversation one day,” Smythe says. “He knew my passion was the restaurant business.”

McEwen’s regulars needn’t fear. Smythe says that most of the changes will be subtle and customers probably won’t notice much of a difference. Edwards will be on-site through May to make the transition as smooth as possible.

— Simone Wilson

Categories
News

First Horizon Loses $248 Million, Cuts Dividend

First Horizon National, parent of First Tennessee Bank and once the pride of the Memphis financial industry, reported a $248 million quarterly loss Thursday and cut its quarterly dividend from 45 cents to 20 cents. The stock price dropped 15 percent to $16, which is near its 52-week low and down 64 percent from its 52-week high of $45.

The news is another sign of financial gloom in the Memphis economy, where thousands of First Horizon employees and local investors own stock in the company. A FHN portfolio worth $1 million a year ago is now worth $360,000.

We have acted in several key areas by increasing loan loss reserves, reducing our mortgage servicing assets and national lending businesses, implementing productivity enhancements, and selling or reducing low returning operations,” said CEO Jerry Baker.

— John Branston

Categories
News

PETA Alleges Animal Abuse at Tyson Plant

A PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) investigation of a Union City, Tennessee, Tyson plant revealed widespread abuse of chickens, spokesman said today.

At a press conference in Memphis, PETA vice-president of campaigns Bruce Friedrich showed footage from hidden cameras worn by a PETA member working undercover in both the Union City plant and another plant in Cumming, Georgia.

On the black-and-white video, workers are shown throwing chickens against slaughter equipment, urinating in the live-hang area, and stabbing chickens in the neck. In one scene, a supervisor tells the undercover employee that it’s okay to rip chickens heads off when they are stuck in shackles.

“We have found horrific abuse at every Tyson plant we have investigated,” says Friedrich. “We keep thinking that it can’t get any worse — and then it does. Its time for Tyson and its major customers, like KFC, to sit down and take serious measures to stop the sadistic abuse that is taking place in its slaughterhouses.”

PETA filed complaints with prosecutors in Obion and Weakley counties in Tennessee, and is asking Tyson to fire workers responsible for the abuse documented in the videos, implement new training for workers, and install cameras to monitor workers.

PETA is also asking Tyson to consider phasing in Controlled Atmosphere Killing, a slaughter method that replaces the chickens’ oxygen with gases that painlessly euthanize the birds. Many European slaughterhouses have already implemented this method.

– Bianca Phillips

Categories
News

Congressman Steve Cohen Appears on The Daily Show

Congressman Steve Cohen was featured in a segment Thursday night on The Daily Show with Jon Stewart on Comedy Central. The program will be rerun Friday throughout the day.

Longtime Daily Show correspondent Samantha Bee interviewed Cohen on November 5th for a segment about the use of so-called “line-standers” — people who are paid hundreds of dollars by high-priced lobbyists to hold their place in line for Congressional hearings.

Cohen said, “I have been a vocal proponent of prohibiting line-standing, because I believe it robs the general public of its right to attend open, public Congressional hearings. Ethics reform has been one of my highest priorities since taking office, and this practice is a perfect example of the culture in Washington that I’m committed to changing.” Bee smirked — but Cohen held his own.

“We had a lot of fun with Samantha during the interview,” Cohen said.