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News The Fly-By

Victorian Resurgence

Since 2005, the city-owned Mallory-Neely House, a stately Victorian mansion, and the smaller Magevney House have been shuttered from the public due to a lack of funding. But if all goes as planned, the two historic properties in downtown’s Victorian Village may soon reopen for tours.

Last month, the Pink Palace Family of Museums advertised a position for a manager of historic properties for the Mallory-Neely and Magevney houses. According to Wesley Creel, administrator of programs for the Pink Palace Family of Museums, hiring a manager is the first step in reopening the museum homes to the public.

“I’m hesitant to put a timeline on the houses reopening until I have the position filled,” Creel said. “Sometimes you don’t find the right person and then you have to start all over again. I would hate to have that happen, but I’m careful about finalizing plans until we have the right person on board.”

The city closed both homes during a round of city budget cuts in 2005. Before their closure, the houses were two of three public museum homes in Victorian Village, a neighborhood of three- and four-story mansions that once housed the city’s wealthiest residents.

Currently, only the Woodruff-Fontaine House, located next door to the Mallory-Neely House and funded by a private organization, is open to the public.

The 25-room Mallory-Neely House was constructed in 1852 and features stenciled, hand-painted ceilings and original furnishings from the 1890s. The Magevney House, a modest clapboard cottage, was built in the 1830s and once housed Irish immigrant Eugene Magevney.

“Currently, we’re still spending limited funds to preserve the interiors, as well as the exteriors,” Creel said. “We keep the temperature humidity controls on, and there are security issues that are attended to.”

But the roofs and windows of the homes have fallen into disrepair. Creel said the city is budgeting $300,000 in the next fiscal year to make needed improvements to the houses.

Scott Blake, executive director of Victorian Village, Inc., couldn’t be more pleased: “We’re really excited that the city has decided to reopen these homes, because they’re critical to our heritage tourism development. We have to have enough activities in the area to attract tourists,” he said. “We’re looking forward to helping them out in any way we can.”

Categories
Letters To The Editor Opinion

Letters to the Editor

Census and Consolidation

If the city-county consolidation Charter Commission presents a proposed charter for a November 2nd referendum, as currently scheduled, the proposal may not include the final district lines for electing the new government’s council.

The document will specify the number of council members, whether they will be elected from single- or multi-member districts, and whether there will be any super districts or at-large positions. District lines will be included, but under court rulings, federal requirements, and state law, they will be based on population figures from the 2000 census, which are now 10 years out of date.

Census workers will conduct the 2010 census during March and April, but the first results are not expected to be released until late December, and the target date for releasing detailed numbers for drawing and redrawing districts is April 1, 2011. If the proposed charter is approved in November, it could set the first election on a date too early for the 2010 census results to be used in redrawing the districts. Council members would therefore be serving in districts shaped by the 2000 census.

It’s likely that significant shifts of population have occurred in Memphis and Shelby County since 2000.

The state metropolitan government law allows the Charter Commission to ask the County Commission and City Council to extend the nine-month time limit it is currently under in completing a proposed charter. It appears the earliest a referendum could be held after the new census figures become available would be late spring or early summer 2011, when the referendum would likely be a stand-alone item on the ballot and not part of a major election, as it would be in November.

The situaton relating to the census numbers presents the charter group with an additional complex issue on top of the others it already faces. The group could go ahead and draft the charter for November with enough time allowed before the first election for the districts to be redrawn using the 2010 census figures. The problem with that is many voters might not want to vote for the charter without knowing what the final district boundaries will be.

It is clear that the supporters of the charter referendum did not think everything through before deciding the referendum timetable. 

Jimmie Covington

Memphis

Glenn Beck

I’m not conservative, but I enjoyed most of Glenn Beck’s recent CPAC speech. Seventy percent of it was emotional appeal and conservative red meat. However, 25 percent was fun, educational facts. The last 5 percent of his speech, however, concerned me. Beck said, and I fully agree, “We need less Marx and more Madison.” And I was with him while he talked about personal responsibility, but then Beck took a “Marxist” turn of his own, as he decided to scapegoat a single group for our country’s problems. “Progressivism is a cancer in America,” Beck preached. The progressives are progressives. Their character and custom are the corruption and destruction of this land. We keep warning you: The progressives are a cancer that spreads inside the body of America.

Those last few sentences are not Beck’s, but they summarize his message. Here is a quote from the Palestinian Ministry of Religious Trusts: “The Jews are Jews. Their character and custom are the corruption and destruction of this land. We keep warning you: The Jews are a cancer that spreads inside the body of the Islamic and Arab nation.”

Beck is right. We need more Madisons — people who see a country full of fellow citizens holding diverse ideals, not cancers.

Brandon Chase Goldsmith

Memphis

Reinventing Government

I enjoyed John Branston’s article on reinventing government (City Beat, February 18th issue) and agree with the questions raised, especially why a new, bigger government would deal with the bloated government staff any better than the one we have now. Any new metro government will probably be run by the same people as we have in government now. It’s no coincidence that the city/county tax rate of Memphis is almost 33 percent higher than any other in Tennessee — about the same as the higher number of government employees.

Ronald Williams

Memphis

Categories
Music Music Features

Many Voices, Many Rooms

What is folk music? It’s definitely acoustic, right? Not according to Bill Kirchen, who concluded his Saturday night set at the 22nd International Folk Alliance Conference with a Telecaster strapped to his chest and a mini-history of the rock-and-roll guitar riff that started with Johnny Cash and Duane Eddy and worked its way to the Stooges’ “I Wanna Be Your Dog,” with more than a dozen stops in between.

Okay, but folk music is definitely about the primacy of the song. Tell that to Australia’s Dardanelles, who launched into a set-opening instrumental with this: “We’re going to start out playing a few jigs. Any jig fans out there? This is the only place on earth where I can ask that question and get a response.”

Is folk music white? Well, mostly, judging by the conference demographics, but make room for Miami’s Lee Boys, a “sacred steel” guitar band that had the crowd literally dancing in the aisles at the end of Saturday’s showcase.

Surely, folk music is about “real” instruments. Well, that’s mostly true. But this year’s Folk Alliance Conference had at least one artist pushing against that notion in the form of Rattlesnake Daddy, whose singer, Ryan Hedgecock, was manning a sampler, looping recorded vocal snippets into a swirl of sound that included live accompaniment from violin, bongos, and a didgeridoo.

The Folk Alliance Conference, which took place February 17th-21st at the downtown Marriott Hotel and Cook Convention Center, with public satellite shows at a variety of local venues, is a gathering of a couple thousand folk/traditional musicians and industry professionals from around the country and abroad (with heavy contingents, in particular, from Canada and Australia). They come together to swap songs and do business under the direction of the Memphis-based Folk Alliance and its executive director, Louis Jay Meyers.

“We do not need to define folk music, because it is something different to each and every one of you,” Meyers wrote in his introductory letter. And the variety of sounds at the conference was impressive. The solo-acoustic singer-songwriters most people envision when thinking of the term “folk” were certainly the core style, but surrounding them was all manner of “traditional” music: honky-tonk (Texan James Hand, a ubiquitous presence), Western swing (Nashville’s Carolyn Martin, who led a terrific seven-piece band with Memphian Eric Lewis on guitar), gospel (the aforementioned sacred-steelers), blues (young Aussie hotshot Kim Churchill), classic rock (Kirchen), aging punkettes (Sons of the Never Wrong), and so much more.

The Folk Alliance following might not be concerned with definitions, but one emerges: Folk music is rooted in some kind of identifiable, long-standing tradition and is music that can be performed for — or, preferably, with — fans and friends in an intimate setting.

Intimacy is the hallmark of the Folk Alliance Conference, what it has over most other musical gatherings. The conference’s official “performance alley” showcase concerts take place in refashioned conference rooms with seating ranging from a couple hundred to a couple dozen. But even more striking are the widely encouraged “private showcases” in the afternoons before and the late nights after the official showcases. These took place in hotel rooms on the 17th-19th floors of the Marriott, with various artists, labels, and other entities sponsoring and booking the rooms. Conference attendees could walk the crowded corridors, music streaming from every open door, all welcome to come in and enjoy the show.

The MPress Records room, up on the 17th floor, on Friday afternoon provides a snapshot as to how these private showcases work: bed shoved against a wall, sheer blue and red sheets tacked to the wall to spruce up the hotel-room interior; two-liter bottles of soda poking out of the bedside table drawer; extra guitars stored in the bathroom; people piled on the bed and lined against the walls as two artists take turns on songs, each giving a very different idea of what “folk” music can be. Amy Speace, wearing jeans and playing an acoustic guitar, putting across sharp songs in a grave, strong vocal style, is in the Lucinda Williams rootsy singer-songwriter mold. Rachel Sage, with two-tone hair and fishnet sleeves, sits at a hand-decorated keyboard stand and plays a moody song with classical overtones. She’s alt-folk, with a mix of Ani DiFranco and Tori Amos.

Down the hall, Tangleweed, a five-piece bluegrass band from Chicago, is playing to a room that is otherwise empty until photographer Justin Fox Burks and I poke our heads in. The 5-to-2 performer-to-audience ratio is a little awkward for both parties, but the band plays on. Meanwhile, upstairs, a young Australian quartet, the Little Stevies, led by sisters Sibylla and Bethany, are blending beautiful harmonies into a folk style with potential indie-rock appeal.

Most of the performers at Folk Alliance are names unfamiliar to those outside the subculture, but there’s also an interesting subset of performers who have all had their respective “pop moment” outside the folk genre. On Saturday’s schedule there was: Raul Malo, of alt-country band the Mavericks, which scored a couple of Top 20 country hits and a Grammy win in the mid-’90s; Jason Ringenberg, whose country-punk band Jason & the Scorchers were kind of a big deal for a brief moment in the mid-’80s; Bill Kirchen, formerly the lead guitarist for the post-hippie, proto-alt-country Commander Cody & His Lost Planet Airmen, which went Top 10 in 1972 with their version of “Hot Rod Lincoln”; and Rattlesnake Daddy’s Ryan Hedgecock, who was once the lead guitarist for next-big-thing country-rockers Lone Justice in the early ’80s.

For most musicians, pop moments never come. And when they do, they tend to be fleeting. But music lasts, and that’s what these men were here for.

As a lifelong devotee of pop music, I have a history of demurring at assertions of musical authenticity or the superiority of the “real.” But it’s hard not to embrace the concept when you’re sitting in a small room, a few feet away, while Malo is singing or Kirchen is playing guitar.

Malo played to a small but packed room, and in that setting his voice — Roy Orbison with a Latin tinge — was astounding. He opened with “The Lucky One,” the title track from his most recent solo album, and when he leaned into the chorus, the room rippled with disbelieving chuckles, appreciative sighs, and shaking heads. I cared much more about Malo from 10 feet away than I ever have on record.

Ringenberg followed Malo with an energetic, self-deprecating set, noting that the first new Jason & the Scorchers album in a decade-and-a-half would be out this week, while the sticker on his guitar promoting his successful current alter ego, kids’ music performer “Farmer Jason,” served as a reminder that time moves on.

Kirchen played later, opening with a love song to the Telecaster, “Hammer of the Honky Tonk Gods,” playing a couple of Commander Cody’s trucker/road songs, and peaking with a cover of Bob Dylan’s “The Times They Are A-Changin’.” In concept, that cover choice seemed like a sop to the “folk” setting, but Kirchen’s reading was surprisingly fierce, transforming the selection from folkie cliché to living testament, Kirchen’s electric solos and riffs embedded in both the melody and the combative thrust of the song.

The success of these artists not only demonstrated how the folk scene puts music first but also suggests that it’s an arena that allows artists to age comfortably. But the gathering would suffer without a sense that there’s a future to be found as well, and I found it in the form of the Parkington Sisters, a Cape Cod quintet I went to see Saturday night after a tip from Folk Alliance director Meyers, who said they’d been getting great word-of-mouth at the conference.

The Parkington Sisters are actual siblings (“real name, no gimmick,” as someone in another genre would put it), ages ranging from 18 to late 20s. They began their set with three playing violin and two acoustic guitar, but cello, banjo, accordion, and piano filtered into the mix on subsequent songs. All five sisters sang, and four of them were fine vocalists. The other, 18-year-old baby sis Lydia, was something more — a great singer, with an unaffected but older-than-her-years voice that carried traces of confessional folk, blues, and jazz. She reminded me a little of a rootsier Fiona Apple, a grittier Zooey Deschanel, a younger, less-damaged Janis Joplin. The sight and sound of her — always sitting, her ever-present smile oscillating between sheepish and mischievous — sinking into a song was easily the most exciting thing I saw at Folk Alliance.

The band — all apparently classically trained but without a hint of stuffiness — cites Joni Mitchell as an influence, but I’d peg a different ’70s touchstone, another sister act: Kate & Anna McGarrigle. Their music — swapping instruments and vocals, trading knowing looks and helpless giggles — was swept up in a natural enthusiasm, radiating love — for music, yes, but more so for each other.

I was impressed enough that when honky-tonker James Hand was late for a private showcase set on the 18th floor later that night, I headed down to the 17th to catch the Parkingtons again in their room. When I walked in, Lydia was sitting on the floor, her four sisters playing behind her while she sang “Will You Still Love Me Tomorrow.” Since any friend of the Shirelles is a friend of mine, I found a stray spot on the edge of the bed and crowded in with a dozen or so others to watch the rest of a set every bit as winning as their official showcase earlier in the night.

The Parkington Sisters have apparently yet to release an official album, so who knows where they’re headed? But remember that name.

Categories
Theater Theater Feature

Witch Hunt

Arthur Miller’s The Crucible was only a modest success when it was first produced in 1953, but its reputation grew quickly, and by the end of the decade, it was a certifiable classic.

The “red scare” was in full bloom when it opened. Writers, actors, and directors were denied employment because of alleged sympathies to Communist causes. And stage and film director Elia Kazan had become the most hated genius in the entertainment industry for handing over another list of prominent artists to the House Un-American Activities Committee. Miller, who had spent some time in Salem, Massachusetts, researching the city’s infamous witch hunts, had caught hold of a powerful and enduring metaphor.

The Crucible has since become the celebrated American playwright’s most frequently performed work, topping the immensely moving All My Sons and Death of a Salesman, which is widely regarded as Miller’s masterpiece. Although the work is unnecessarily long, the Harrell Theatre’s admirable, if uneven, production is a testament to the play’s staying power.

The drive from downtown Memphis to Collierville always takes longer than I think it does, and having not seen a production of The Crucible in several years, I spent much of the 40-minute journey to the Harrell Theatre trying to determine all the ways in which this story, so closely identified with a specific cultural moment, might still be relevant today.

On the passenger’s seat next to me there was a newspaper from the previous week devoting a significant portion of the front page to Tiger Woods’ public acknowledgment of his sexual indiscretions. On top of the newspaper there was a small package of photographs from Memphis’ first Tea Party, an event where locals wrapped themselves in flags, waved Bibles, and worked themselves into such a frenzy they thought they saw socialists everywhere. Tom Waits’ “Rains on Me” from the Free the West Memphis 3 CD blared over my speakers, reminding me that the witch hunt depicted in The Crucible has grown into something more than a metaphor. It was a fairly depressing trip, and things only got worse when the lights at the Harrell went down.

Director Amy Hanford takes a literal, no-frills approach to Miller’s story about a group of young Puritan girls who, after being caught dancing in the woods near Salem, protect themselves by accusing other townspeople of witchcraft. In this Crucible, the good guys are all a little too good, while the baddies are black-hats all around, snarling and shouting their lines like the devil’s own. Perhaps the playwright owns some of the blame for this, but it’s a director’s job to remind the pious judges, self-serving ministers, and greedy land barons that they are good people who honestly believe they are doing the Lord’s work.

Justin Asher, for example, is a commanding, positively regal presence as Deputy-Governor Danforth, but a man who wields so much power has no need to bark and growl so often.

Conversely, Brian Everson is an extremely likable John Proctor but too grounded in basic goodness. Proctor, The Crucible‘s chief protagonist, has a violent temper and struggles with guilt over past indiscretions and also with his lingering sexual urges. A bit more ambiguity could have kept this Crucible from becoming tedious in the latter half of the second act.

It’s only been a year and a half since Emily Chateau moved from Michigan to Memphis, but with seven shows under her belt, she’s quickly asserted herself as a major player on the local theater scene. Chateau is atypically stiff but no less excellent here as Elizabeth Proctor, John’s sickly wife and the source of his strength.

She’s a perfectly upright foil for Karrah Fleshman who plays Abigail Williams, John’s teen-age lover, as a naturally predatory product of her repressive environment. There is an innocence that underlies all of Abigail’s manipulations and her easy willingness to send half the town to the gallows if that’s what it takes to have her way. It’s a deceptively risky performance from an exciting young actor who seems to be finding her own unique voice.

It rained all the way home from Collierville, turning the 40-minute drive into something closer to an hour. But the time passed quickly, because I couldn’t stop thinking about how upsettingly current The Crucible still is. And this may be my urban prejudice talking, but even in 2010 — perhaps especially in 2010 — it seems like a particularly brave choice of material for a suburban community playhouse best known for its production of shows like Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat.

Categories
Music Music Features

Conduct Yourself

The musicians of the Memphis Symphony Orchestra (MSO) know a thing or two about working without a resident conductor.

Longtime conductor David Loebel resigned almost two years ago. Musical director candidates have taken his place over the past season, conducting symphony shows as they vied for the position that eventually went to Mei-Ann Chen. But the symphony’s new Opus One concert series won’t require the services of a conductor at all.

Instead, members of the Memphis Symphony’s chamber orchestra will conduct themselves in this concert series featuring alternative venues, nontraditional music, and audience participation. Opus One kicks off Thursday, March 4th, at 7 p.m. at One Commerce Square (in the lobby of the former Sun Trust bank) downtown.

“There will be no [conductor] waving [his] arms. Instead, we’ll be watching each other’s body language and breathing together,” violinist and concertmaster Susanna Perry Gilmore says. “Things are a little more amplified when you don’t have somebody to watch. We have to listen at a very intense level. It’s challenged and stretched me as a player.”

Modeled after New York City’s conductor-less Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, the MSO’s Opus One series was developed as a way to break down the “wall” between the symphony and the audience with the hopes of attracting a younger demographic.

As for musical choices, musicians will perform classical pieces in the first half of each show, but those will be followed by more contemporary works. The One Commerce Square show will feature big-band chart-toppers, and instructors from the Fred Astaire Dance Studio will provide on-the-spot dance demonstrations.

“We’re not going to sit on a stage. We’ll be on the floor, surrounded by the audience,” says Iren Zombor, assistant principal cellist. “To put people more at ease, musicians will talk before each piece about why they like the music and what it means to them. We want to take out the intimidation factor.”

“We didn’t feel like we were presenting something that had a broad appeal to a younger demographic — those people who like to hear live music but not if they have to sit for two-and-a-half hours in a formal concert setting,” Gilmore says.

A few MSO members traveled to New York City in September to study the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, which has worked without a conductor since 1972. Then in December, the MSO held an invitation-only test concert at the Clark Opera Memphis Center.

“We weren’t sure what to expect [at the December show]. Artistically and socially, it turned out to be a success. And now we’ve tried to tweak the flow of the evening based on audience feedback,” violinist Gaylon Patterson says.

Not only does the Opus One series have potential to attract a new set of symphony fans, it may also help MSO members develop as musicians. According to principal oboist Joey Salvalaggio, working without a conductor forces musicians to develop their own interpretations of a musical work.

“Everyone is encouraged to listen and comment. If you have an idea, we’ll put it in a trial phase,” Salvalaggio says. “When we try someone’s idea, they know that was their idea. They’re very conscious of ownership. That’s very different from how we operate with a conductor.”

The MSO has developed a code of conduct for Opus One rehearsals. When members have conflicting ideas of how a musical piece should be interpreted, each idea goes on trial, and if necessary, the group will vote.

“If we reach consensus and it’s not your idea, you have to get on board and put your ego aside,” Salvalaggio says. “It completely opens your mind. You hear an idea you wouldn’t have thought of, and it turns out to be amazing. You learn a lot about music that way.”

During regular symphony performances, the MSO may operate with as many as 80 musicians. But Opus One will never feature more than 35 musicians at one time. “It’s very hard to play without a conductor with more than 35 people,” Gilmore says.

Full-orchestra, conductor-led shows at the Cannon Center will continue.

“We’re still the artists we were before,” Patterson says. “What we want to do is invite new friends into our circle and expose another side of our artistic personalities.”

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Big-Dairy Smackdown

Small-Ag activists and organic watchdog groups found themselves in terra incognita recently: cheering the USDA for tightening the definitions of organic meat and dairy. On February 12th, the agency published “Access to Pasture,” a “final rule and request for comments” regarding organic standards for livestock. It’s been called the most sweeping rewrite of federal organic standards since their inception in 2002.

The rule closes several loopholes that mega-dairies have used to exploit the organic market with milk from farms that hardly resemble the farms that inspired the now $24.6 billion organic industry.

“Access to Pasture” mandates that meat and dairy cattle branded organic must graze for a minimum of 120 days on pasture. At least 30 percent of the animals’ total annual caloric intake must come from grazing.

While definitive with regard to dairy, the rule leaves one significant question open with regard to meat production: whether beef cows should be exempt from the above grazing requirements during a four-month fattening, or “finish feeding,” period, after which they are slaughtered. A 60-day comment period closes April 19th.

The new rule is a major blow to certain mega-dairies that for years took advantage of the previous rule requiring only that organic cows have “access to pasture.” The real-life manifestation of this famously ambiguous phrase was often a warehouse door opening to a muddy side yard.

Clarifying “access to pasture” has been under discussion between the National Organic Program and the USDA since 1994, and a rule similar to the new rule was first proposed in 2005. It languished in Bush’s USDA for a variety of reasons, some of which are currently under investigation. When the draft was opened for public comment, 80,327 were lodged, of which a large majority — all but 28 — favored clarifying the phrase access to pasture.

In addition to clarifying pasturing requirements for cattle, “Access to Pasture” tightens up several other cracks in the federal definition of organic. It expands and strengthens the language prohibiting antibiotics in organic feed, requires that any edible bedding (like straw and corn cobs) be certified organic, and mandates that pasture be managed as a crop — that is, to produce abundant forage.

Much of the new 160-page rule consists of comments, which are parsed and organized into arguments for or against the rule’s measures. Of the 26,970 public comments the USDA received, 26,000 supported more pasture time for organic cattle. All but 130 of the comments arrived via three modified form letters.

Many Small-Ag types were skeptical of Obama’s appointment of former Iowa governor Tom Vilsack as secretary of agriculture. Vilsack’s cozy relationship with corporate agribusiness earned him “Governor of the Year” kudos from the Biotechnology Industry Organization.

One of Secretary Vilsack’s first moves was to rip up the plaza in front of the USDA building in Washington and install a certified organic garden. He then recommended that all USDA facilities around the country do the same. Then Vilsack appointed Kathleen Merrigan as deputy administrator, the USDA’s number-two spot. She’s credited with writing the Organic Foods Production Act of 1990, in which Congress gave the USDA authority to oversee the organic industry.

While organic cheerleaders appear to have much to celebrate, some unfinished business will soon tell us more about which direction the USDA is really headed and how much the public’s hands are guiding it.

Public comment just ended on the USDA’s December 2009 determination that Monsanto’s genetically engineered (GE) alfalfa seed meets USDA standards. The determination came despite the agency’s acknowledgment that the GE alfalfa is likely to cross-contaminate with non-GE alfalfa.

Not one comment in a brief online survey of the registered comments favored approving this contagious alfalfa for planting. If the pattern holds, the response to these comments could create a showdown between Vilsack’s biotech interests and the newly comment-friendly agency he leads.

Another looming question is what will replace the National Animal Identification System (NAIS) proposal, which was recently scrapped in another victory for Small Ag. NAIS would have forced all livestock farmers to keep painstaking and expensive records of their animals.

And finally, the burning item of business that “Access to Pasture” leaves unresolved for another 60 days: “We are requesting comments on the exceptions for finish feeding of ruminant slaughter stock.”

As it stands, the USDA exempts beef cattle from the requirement that 30 percent of nutrition come from forage for a period of 120 days prior to slaughter. In practice this exemption allows organic beef cattle to be confined and fed grain for four months prior to slaughter, a practice known as feedlot finishing.  

“Access to Pasture” notes, “The sentiment among most of the commenters is that there is no place in organic agriculture for the confinement feeding of animals nor should there be any exception for ruminant slaughter stock.”

If that sentiment holds, the organic feedlot exception should end. But if the exception is upheld and “organic” beef is allowed to be “finished” in confinement, that would not only cast doubt on what appears to be a newly inclusive and democratic USDA, it would arguably violate several key aspects of organic livestock production. Confined feeding goes against the organic tenet that animals be allowed to express their true nature, and feeding grain to animals not only produces a different kind of meat that’s much less healthy, it’s also much more energy-intensive and environmentally destructive.

Perhaps the real discussion shouldn’t even be about whether organic beef cows can be confined and grain-fed for the last 120 days of their lives. The discussion should be about whether organic cattle should be fed any grain at all.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Seconds

Au Fond, the newest project from Ben Vaughn of Grace, is scheduled to open the first week in March. Last week, I took a sneak peek at the space, which is coming along nicely.

Au Fond, French for “in essence” and a cooking term for “the core of a dish,” will be part retail, part restaurant. Vaughn uses the term “farmtable,” a portmanteau word that evokes a wholesome, open ambience and offers an alternative to “café” or “bistro.” But what is a farmtable exactly?

According to Vaughn, it takes its cue from old English or French breakfast tables, where a select number of quality breakfast items would be served right next to the open kitchen. At Au Fond, eggs (chicken or duck), pancakes, brioche, rye breads, slow-cured bacon — all prepared in-house — will be on the breakfast menu. The lunch menu will consist of Kentucky “hot browns,” homemade pastas, chicken salads, pimento cheese, and the French staple, pommes frites. Au Fond will keep the drink selection simple, with a choice of white or red table wine and light or dark beer. Vaughn plans to make things interesting with the soda options, though, collecting familiar favorites and also some unfamiliar brands. (He handed me a bottle of spicy Blenheim Ginger Ale as a teaser.)

Like Grace, Au Fond will use every inch of its deep-set space, with a shop at the front, tables and seating in the middle, and eventually a bakery and cooking space in the back. Part of the wall between Au Fond and Grace will be removed, and both this opening and the front entrance on Cooper will lead into the retail store. Here, shoppers will find charcuterie, foie gras, an extensive menu of cheeses (Vaughn looks to have 130 labels) from all over the world, coffees, teas, vinegars, oils, spices, and extracts, ready-made items from Grace, and a host of bakery items. Other plans include offering fruit and vegetables from local vendors, pre-planted micro-greens to help people start their own herb gardens, and fresh-cut flowers from Flora Farms.

Menu options will be written on recycled wooden doors mounted on the wall, and Vaughn and manager Chey Fulgham have crafted a distressed facade for the retail shop to separate the front of the store from the courtyard-like dining section. A skylight and greenery will give the seating area an outdoor feel, and a fountain will make the picture complete. (When Vaughn mentions this last part to me, Fulgham looks up. “Oh yeah, did I mention I bought us a fountain?” Vaughn asks. Apparently not, although Fulgham doesn’t seem to mind.)

The rear of the space will be the last to reach its full potential. Vaughn hopes to set up an open kitchen and full bakery there, instead of sharing the kitchen with Grace. But for now the refinished brick room will be a place for cooking classes and tutorials on cheese and wine pairings.

Breakfast and lunch entrées will run from $6 to $8. The restaurant portion of Au Fond will be open daily from 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., and the retail shop will be open until 7:30 p.m. Vaughn aims to offer the same quality food as Grace but in a more family-friendly environment, with a focus on breakfast and a retail business unique to the neighborhood.

“Our goal is to create a timeless place that can root into Cooper-Young,” Vaughn says.

Au Fond, 938 S. Cooper (274-8513)

Already open down the street from Au Fond is The Reef, a laid-back take on its predecessor, The Blue Fish. The new eatery will certainly benefit from the name change. According to Reef chef Tim Foley, deliveries were routinely mixed up between Blue Fish and the downtown restaurant Bluefin.

But the change won’t be in name only. While the plan is to keep most of the Blue Fish menu, owner David Meredith hopes a combination of more reasonable portion sizes and smarter buying on his part will improve the restaurant’s price points. “We had become a place where you go for special occasions,” Meredith says. In addition to slashing the prices nearly in half, Meredith hopes to keep things more casual, become a “place where the locals go,” and maybe even attract a younger crowd. Other changes include lightening up the space with brighter paint and decorating the walls with work by local artists.

They haven’t gotten their liquor license yet, so in the meantime it’s BYOB. Check out the Reef for dinner, Monday through Saturday, or for Sunday brunch.

Categories
Film Features Film/TV

Mr. and Mrs. Tolstoy

The Last Station arrives in town with better-than-normal box-office hopes buoyed by a couple of high-profile Oscar nominations: Helen Mirren for Best Actress and Christopher Plummer for Best Supporting Actor.

Plummer is Russian novelist Leo Tolstoy, the author of War & Peace and Anna Karenina. Mirren is his wife, Sofya. The film is set in 1910, late in Tolstoy’s life, when he has morphed from merely the world’s most famous living writer to the head of a movement.

There is a commune dedicated to the Tolstoyan philosophy — an ascetic creed dedicated to pacifism, celibacy, vegetarianism, and other beliefs of which Tolstoy himself isn’t always a strict practitioner — surrounding the family’s summer home, and the great man himself is surrounded by followers whom Sofya considers to be parasites and sycophants. When one contends that Tolstoy is a prophet, Sofya chortles: “God, this is unbearable. No wonder I’m lonely. I’m surrounded by morons.”

The film’s conflict is over the rights to Tolstoy’s work. Chief acolyte Vladimir Chertkov (Paul Giamatti) is counseling Tolstoy to make the rights public upon his death, as a gift to the Russian people and as an extension of his personal philosophy. But a disgusted Sofya, seeking to protect the estate on behalf of the couple’s children, will have none of this. Caught in the middle is Valentin Bulgakov (James McAvoy), a young Tolstoyan hired by Chertkov to be Tolstoy’s personal secretary and, he hopes, his own spy, but who also becomes something of a confidant to Sofya.

McAvoy, whose big break came in a similar “witness to ‘greatness'” role in The Last King of Scotland, is the audience’s entry to the story and in some ways the lead character. His Valentin is a true admirer of Tolstoy and is at first dedicated to a philosophy he may not fully understand, as the film shows him gradually disabused of his rectitude and certainty by Tolstoy, Sofya, and, finally, Masha (Kerry Condon), a comely Tolstoyan who bemusedly equates sex between the two as “making [Valentin] forget God.”

Adapted by director Michael Hoffman from a novel by Jay Parini, The Last Station is not a conventional biopic. It requires little knowledge of — or, frankly, interest in — Tolstoy’s work. And I suppose one could argue that it lacks the heft of its subject matter.

Hoffman’s highest-profile credits are decade-old Hollywood semi-hits One Fine Day and Soapdish. The Last Station comes on more like an unusually juicy and smart TV movie than it does great cinema. It’s an extravagant acting piece that is written with zest if not exactly a strict adherence to history. (This is, after all, a Russian period piece populated by scenery-chewing British actors.)

Plummer plays Tolstoy less as a great man than as a wise old codger who understands he’s treated as a great man. And Mirren goes for broke. Her Sofya smashes the china, lashes out at the proto-paparazzi littering her yard, threatens two suicide attempts, and summons her husband home with a false report of illness but a real desire to get him back into her bed.

This is not an art film, for better or worse. It’s just a terrifically entertaining movie for smart grown-ups, which is an increasingly rare treat.

Categories
Film Features Film/TV

Martin Scorsese is missing in jumpy mystery-thriller.

Shutter Island, last week’s box-office champ, is currently perched on screens like Poe’s Raven, crowing “Nevermore” at anyone who believes that director Martin Scorsese’s best work is still ahead of him.

Scorsese’s latest film is a distracted, jumpy mystery-thriller characterized by its director’s unusual fascination with the psychological garland that swathes its meandering central story about Teddy Daniels, a U.S. marshal (Leonardo DiCaprio) who arrives via boat at an island hospital for the criminally insane to investigate a mysterious patient disappearance. When the film and its able actors are not dragged down into the muck of Daniels’ paranoid compulsions, it’s often an effectively rain-drenched mood piece that seems designed to induce in the viewer not just anxiety but sweaty, flu-like symptoms.

It’s a strange film, challenging and more clever than it first appears. But what’s most strange is that its director, cinematographer, and production designer leap to life whenever the hero is unconscious. The textures and corridors of Teddy’s dreams are incongruously tactile, dusted as they are by the rains of ash, snowflakes, and official documents that quickly visualize Teddy’s inner turmoil; he feels convinced that his world is simultaneously burning up, evaporating, and being buried by large, sinister forces beyond his control. In a way, Shutter Island would have been far more effective if it had abandoned its story altogether and stitched and scrambled all the avant-garde stuff into a fearsome short.

Astute film critics have noted several key cinematic touchstones that burden Shutter Island‘s tale of extraordinary madness, but a pair of pungent mid-1960s films, Roman Polanski’s Repulsion and Otto Preminger’s Bunny Lake Is Missing, haunt this film even more. The psychological horror of Polanski’s and Preminger’s films developed out of each director’s cool distance from their subjects, which was expressed through frequent occasions when improbable jolts upset the mundane activities of everyday life. Shutter Island leaves no room for the everyday; every patient has a dark secret, every cop wants to chew your eyeballs out, and every spectacular shot of DiCaprio scaling the island’s dangerous cliffs is designed to top Jimmy Stewart’s seaside encounters in Vertigo.

Nonetheless, there are a couple of eerie passages in the movie, and near the end of the film, the director sets off one startling, well-timed shock. But there’s a tactical problem Scorsese can’t solve that stems from the tricky script. As DiCaprio’s search starts to wither, there’s an even stronger sense that the story’s not supposed to make sense, which, even though the film’s last turn of the screw occurs with its last image, is far more frustrating than liberating. Neither the technique nor the impact of discrete scenes compensates for the feeling that you’ve been had.

Categories
Opinion The Last Word

The Rant

Hello, again, Dalai! And hello, again, people who worry about the size of their penises. Yes, those men in charge in China got mighty upset about the dangerous Dalai Lama visiting and meeting with Barack Obama in Washington the other day and, in fact, had asked him to cancel it. Seems they just can’t forgive the dude for wanting human rights violations to stop and for wanting Tibet to be independent of them. It’s kind of like Texas, only the women don’t have really big hair and Tibet doesn’t breed as many crooked politicians.

And while he didn’t get fist-bumped like he did when he was in Memphis (I still think that was one of the coolest things that’s ever happened here), he did meet with Obama, not in the Oval Office but in a somewhat less significant room of the White House, to downplay things a little. All of this seems ridiculous to me. If we want to have the Dalai Lama visit the U.S. capital and meet with the president, so what? Let Beijing get a life. And while they’re at it, they might want to do something about that haze of pollution hanging in the air. It looks like the cigarette smoke in my house, just on a much larger scale. And let them come on and join us. Bring on Iranian president Mahmoud Ahmadinejad. Let’s see what he has to say — and get him off in the corner and let him know that, ahem, yes, there are homosexuals in his country.

The point is to not let old grudges take up so much time. Communicate. When I first heard that China was pissed off about the Dalai Lama’s meeting with Obama, I laughed out loud and thought it must have been a joke. But I guess when it comes to land, power, money, religious views, and such, they take things pretty seriously. Sounds like the United States, the country where if you are a white male and you intentionally fly a plane into a building you are a criminal, but if you are Middle Eastern and you wear funny shoes you are a terrorist.

And what about that guy? I’m telling you, people better watch out. It wouldn’t surprise me if that starts happening more and more. You can screw with some people until they snap and can’t take it anymore. When you’ve got the government taking and taking and taking from you and you work hard and try to be fair, and then they give it to large financial institutions to bail them out and then officers of said financial institutions go on over-the-top, lavish retreats and get bonuses of hundreds of millions of dollars on top of the hundreds of millions of dollars they already make, some people are going to get mad as hell and not take it anymore. Dear God, I am starting to sound like Sarah Palin! Someone give me a Percocet, STAT!

It’s like when I am trying to watch Law & Order rerun marathons and every six or seven minutes Marie Osmond appears on the screen hawking that diet food you can order. First of all, I don’t want to be reminded that I am fat, and second of all, she is wearing more makeup than I wore when I was a guest clown in the Ringling Brothers Circus. It looks like a Halloween costume. She freaks me out. I bet she has the spices in her kitchen cabinets arranged in alphabetical order. And I am tired of her being thrust upon me without my asking. I could easily snap. I’m not going to fly a plane into a building because I get dizzy driving on interstate overpasses, but I could snap in my own way. I could drive out to one of the mega-churches and put “I’D RATHER BE HITTING MY CRACK PIPE” bumper stickers on all of the cars. I could hack into Mark Sanford’s e-mail and send him naked photos of Jack Black. Or I could just break into Marie Osmond’s house and rearrange her spice cabinet and send her over the edge so she would have to be locked up and never, ever appear on television again. That way, there would be more airtime for Toby. Yes, Toby, the dog that scoots his butt across that woman’s carpet and makes her scream. Now, that is a great commercial.

Oh, well. If only it were a perfect world. Maybe I’ll get in touch with the Dalai Lama. If he can straighten out Tiger Woods, maybe he can keep me on track.