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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Grind City Coffee Expo set for March 9th; plus Comeback Coffee and Vice & Virtue.

Is Memphis in a coffee renaissance? It may be too soon to tell. But something certainly is, ahem, brewing. For proof, look to all the third wave places like Launch Process and Low Fi popping up. Our next piece of evidence is the Grind City Coffee Expo, set for March 9th at Memphis College of Art.

Daniel Lynn and Rachel Williams are the event’s organizers. “It’s a way to bring Memphis coffee [purveyors] together under a neutral roof,” says Lynn. “And it’s a way to expose Memphians to what [these purveyors] have to offer.”

Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

Daniel Lynn (left) and Rachel Williams, organizers of the Grind City Coffee Expo

Guests will be given a tasting card and a five-ounce tasting mug to sample coffees from the nine vendors who will be at the event. The vendors include: Dr. Bean, Vice & Virtue, Comeback Coffee, The Avenue, Awal Coffee, The Hub, Reverb, Launch Process, and French Truck. Each, in turn, will offer something special for the show. Vice & Virtue is bringing a mini-roaster and guests can roast their own beans. Comeback Coffee will have coffee sodas(!).

Lynn says he was inspired to create the expo after attending the Science of Beer event, though he acknowledges “coffee’s more of my speed.” Lynn notes that he’s learned a lot from setting up the expo. For example, “spro” is short for espresso.

“Coffee is almost like a plate of barbecue,” says Lynn. “It’s something you can bond over.”

Tickets are $30, with proceeds going to Protect Our Aquifer.

Grind City Coffee Expo at Memphis College of Art, Saturday, March 9th, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.

Comeback Coffee, set to open in Uptown March 29th, has a lighted sign on the wall that reads, “Stay a while,” and they mean it. Comeback is owned by Hayes and Amy McPherson. Hayes marvels at the variety of potential customers. You’ve got your Uptowners, your St. Juders, North Memphians, Mud Islanders, and so on. “All those people can rub shoulders,” he says.

Hayes vows that Comeback will be quick and consistent. He plans on a little quality pushing. What this means is that there are no fancy pour-overs; drinks will be made by machine but from the finest sources. Folks can “sit and be,” he says. Plus, price points will be reasonable.

There will be classic coffee drinks as well as seasonal and specialty drinks such as mochas. A giant espresso machine sits on the counter just waiting to hit customers with a caffeine buzz. In addition, a menu, designed by noted local chef Cole Jeanes, will feature pastries, sandwiches, and toasts.

Comeback is in a pretty, old building on North Main. There is exposed brick and large windows on the west side. The McPhersons, who live upstairs, had taken note of the building, fantasizing what they could do with the space. Amy’s father is in commercial real estate. He had, on his own, taken interest in the building as well. The two sides compared notes and decided it was meant to be.

Hayes says he’s excited about the upcoming expo. “We’ve needed this for a long time,” he says. “We on the cusp of a coffee culture.”

Comeback Coffee, 358 N. Main

Wee beginning roasters often start with an air popper (meant for popcorn) to roast their first beans. Tim and Teri Perkins of Vice & Virtue Coffee did and quickly moved on to a whirley pop, trading up to better equipment as their knowledge grew. They are currently working out of a space on Hollywood with a commercial roaster and hope to eventually open a small shop of their own. Their coffees are currently available at Curb Market, Cooper-Young Community Farmers Market, Belltower Artisans, City Silo, the Grecian Gourmet Taverna, and at the roastery.

Tim and Teri Perkins of Vice & Virtue Coffee

Tim calls this a passion project, but this is an obsession of a Fatal Attraction variety. They travel to conferences, take classes. They talk, talk, talk coffee and never get sick of it. They caught the fever when they heard their first bean crack.

On the name, it involves Aristotle, the human condition, good versus evil. “It appealed to us,” says Tim. “I’m vice, she’s virtue.”

Tim points out that the “v” in the logo is actually a martini glass, which points to the notion of craft coffee moving into the craft cocktail space and the Perkinses’ plan to serve coffee cocktails one day.

The Perkinses say they’ve enjoyed learning about different beans from different countries, experimenting with coffee, and coaxing out the best flavors. “We know what we’re doing, but we can get better,” says Teri.

At the expo, Tim plans to walk guests through the roasting process, having them immerse themselves in the sensory experience. Like the McPhersons, the Perkinses say the expo is a long time coming and that Memphis’ coffee community has thus far been underserved.

“It’s a craft,” says Tim. “It’s an artform.”

Vice & Virtue offers cuppings on the first Friday of the month, from 6:30-8 p.m., at the Hollywood roastery, in conjunction with Broad Avenue First Friday. The next cupping is March 1st and will have a March Madness theme, where tasters are put to the test. Cost is $5.

Vice & Virtue Coffee, 482 N. Hollywood

Categories
Politics Politics Feature

Nashville and Memphis: Looking Ahead — and to the Past

James Mackler, the once and future Democratic candidate for the U.S. Senate, was on hand for the beginning of Monday’s meeting of the Shelby County Commission and, having been asked to open the session, presided over the pledge of allegiance to the flag with the same clarion command voice he must have been accustomed to as a member of American military effort in Afghanistan, where he was a helicopter pilot.

Mackler, a Nashville attorney, was making his second appearance in Memphis within a month, having assured the members of the Germantown Democratic Club in late January that he intended to run in earnest in 2020 for the seat being vacated by the quasi-moderate Republican Senator Lamar Alexander — and that he would not spare the person of President Donald Trump in the process.

The candidate, who aborted his first Senate run in 2018 to allow former Nashville mayor and Tennessee governor Phil Bredesen to carry the Democratic standard against ultimate Republican winner, Marsha Blackburn, is aware that he will likely face the same sort of negative campaigning as did Bredesen (presumably at the hands of GOP consultant Ward Baker, who takes no prisoners). But, having faced actual, not pretend combat, Mackler figures he can handle it. After the commission meeting, he was the beneficiary of a fund-raiser in Midtown.

Jackson Baker

coach Jerry C. Johnson

With the exception of an unusually complicated election of a new member of the Shelby County School Board to succeed Theresa Jones, now a city court judge, and a few housekeeping measures, Monday’s meeting of the commission concentrated on events and circumstances that tied into Black History Month. Among those honored were the five black women who had formerly served as Shelby County Commissioners. They were: the late Minerva Johnican, Bridget Chisholm, Deidre Malone, Edith Ann Moore, and Henri Brooks — all of  whom, or their family members in their stead, were presented plaques in honor of their service.

Next to be recognized was Jerry C. Johnson, the 101-year-old former basketball coach, for 46 years, of LeMoyne-Owen College. Johnson entertained attendees with reminiscences involving former broadcaster/city councilman Myron Lowery, during his time as a player.

There was also a proclamation extolling the historical figure, Robert R. Church Sr., for “his heroism in the face of  adversity, his business acumen, political savvy, philanthropy, and enduring contributions to Memphis and Shelby County.”

The election of a new school board member underwent considerable delay as one contender, Tyree Daniels, went through an elongated back-and-forth with commissioners about the issue of whether his residence was in the district he sought to represent. The discussion grew thorny as Daniels opened up more questions about his actual residence than he was able to resolve.

Ultimately, he withdrew, and the new school board member selected was Althea Green, a pastor and retired teacher who had obvious backing from educators attending the meeting.

• Was a piece of maiden legislation by freshman Democratic state state Representative London Lamar of Memphis just damned with faint praise? Or praised with faint damns?

Either definition might describe the first bill of Lamar’s to be introduced and heard in committee last week. HB17, which is inspired by the Cyntoia Brown case, would, in the language of its caption, establish “a presumption that a minor who is the victim of a sexual offense or engaged in prostitution using force intended or likely to cause death or serious bodily injury is presumed to have held a reasonable belief that the use of force is immediately necessary to avoid imminent death or serious bodily injury.”

Until her sentence was commuted in January by outgoing Governor Bill Haslam, Brown had been serving a sentence of 51 years in the Tennessee Prison for Women in Nashville for first-degree murder, felony murder, and aggravated robbery. Brown’s crime was committed when she was 15; she shot a john in the back of the head at a time when she was under the control of a pimp whose street name was Kut-Throat. When tried for the crime, Brown maintained that she had feared for her life.

Before Lamar’s bill was heard in the criminal justice subcommittee of House Judiciary on Wednesday, she, her Senate co-sponsor Brenda Gilmore (D-Nashville), and numerous supporters of the legislation held a press conference on the measure in a packed room in the Cordell Hull Building. It was a reminder of the notoriety of the Brown case, and the reality that it had become a cause celebre, related to the issue — a prevailing one on Capitol Hill these days — of criminal justice reform.

Certainly there was a tone of appreciative gallantry toward Lamar and her legislation — both in a motion by Representative Michael Curcio (R-Dickson) to send the bill to summer study and in courtesy remarks by committee member William Lamberth (R-Portland), the House majority Leader.

They and other members of the subcommittee heaped flattering remarks on Lamar — words that were strangely out of sync with the unanimous voice vote in favor of Curcio’s motion. As often as not, “summer study” is a destination for legislation on its way to oblivion, a fact well known to Lamar’s fellow Memphian, Representative Antonio Parkinson, who expressed a concern that the bill was being shunted, as he put it, toward “the abyss of summer study.”

But Parkinson was told that such was not the case — that, as both Curcio and Lamberth stated, there were just some “language problems” that needed to be worked out. The bill addresses “a real issue,” said Lamberth, maintaining that the measure would most surely be taken seriously. In fact, more than a few meritorious bills have in fact undergone serious study over the summer and gone on to be passed.

If that should be the case, the bill might re-emerge with fresh laurels at about the same time that Brown is scheduled to leave prison, on August 7th.

Categories
Cover Feature News

The Pink Palace Celebrates Memphis’ Bicentennial With a Powerful New Exhibit

“To study history means submitting to chaos and nevertheless retaining faith in order and meaning.”

— Hermann Hesse

Steve Masler, anthropologist and manager of exhibits at the Pink Palace Museum, would no doubt agree with this quote. In fact, he told me as much when I spoke to him about the museum’s grand exhibit, “Making Memphis: 200 Years of Community,” running from March 2nd to October 20th. “My feeling is that the exhibit’s design is an integral part of how you interpret it. It’s organized chaos, which is purposeful, because that is really the way that history works.”

Indeed, visitors to the exhibit should prepare themselves for total immersion in the images, artifacts, and sounds of the city. And its words. Let it be known that the Pink Palace has the biggest words — some up to six feet high. The exhibit team’s exhaustive community outreach program through 2018 elicited the words people most associate with the city, translated those into word clouds, and then made the word clouds larger than life with 3D sculptures of the most popular ones.

Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

“So when you walk in through these words, you see what current-day people have said Memphis means to them,” Masler explains. “Then you go into the room, which is full of things. Five thematic areas, or pods, and 10 chronological monoliths. And they’re all tied together with colored threads. Each of the five theme-pods has a color, sending out four threads to the other pods, and with threads of different colors coming in from the others. So overhead will be this web, and that’s what the story really is: This intertwined, complicated web of things. If you follow them, they go to certain specific points in the other pods.”

Caroline Carrico, supervisor of exhibits, chimes in: “The idea being, what makes Memphis today is the intersections of all these different stories, these different lines of thought. Our themes are Art and Entertainment, Commerce and Entrepreneurialism, Heritage and Identity, Migration and Settlement, and Geography and the Environment. So things come up in different places. For example, when we were putting it together, we’d ask things like, ‘Where are we going to put Robert Church?'” But Church, considered the South’s first African-American millionaire, had his hand in so many facets of the city’s early growth that choosing where to address his legacy was simple, according to coordinating curator Nur Abdalla: “Everywhere.” Carrico explains further, “So there’s not just one place where you read about Robert Church. You go through the whole exhibit, and find him lots of places.”

Steve Masler, manager of exhibits at the Pink Palace.

This approach, emphasizing the disparate, yet interconnected aspects of the city’s society and environment over time, is not a typical historical presentation. In the beginning, the team looked back at similar retrospectives in the past. “We have a pamphlet from the centennial, in 1919, that talks a lot about [city founders] John Overton, James Winchester, and Andrew Jackson … and Davy Crockett, who was barely here,” Abdalla says.

Carrico adds, “In the mansion, we actually have the sesquicentennial mural, and it’s very startling when you look at it. It was 1969, the year after MLK’s assassination, and the only African American on there is W.C. Handy, and he’s standing in a cotton field. The Civil War generals take up much more area than that. So we very starkly did not want to do that. We had a really clear picture of what we didn’t want the exhibit to be when we started, but not a predetermined plan of what it would be.”

Caroline Carrico, Pink Palace’s supervisor of exhibits, inspects the artifacts.

Abdalla (recently honored in the Flyer‘s “20<30” cover story) dove deep into hundreds of sources on Memphis history, distilling their insights for the team, who then collectively developed the focal points of the exhibit. “When you read the stuff that was written in the 1930s, and even the sesquicentennial in ’69, you read a lot about Jackson, Overton, Winchester, and of course they’re important. But they don’t come up in all our pods. They come up at the beginning. … We also find that every single pod has to talk about race. Because everything that happened here, just because of the social order, has to do with race.

“Even in the Geography and the Environment pod, race is discussed,” Abdalla elaborates. “We talk about pollution, neighborhoods prone to flooding, the planning of the interstates, which were built through the poorest neighborhoods to split them apart purposely.”

Nur Abdalla, coordinating curator for “Making Memphis: 200 Years of Community.”

As I spoke with the team, their acute sense of responsibility in curating the city’s history was palpable. As Masler recalls, “Ours is one of the biggest events, if not the biggest event, that’s going on for the [city of Memphis] bicentennial. And we didn’t know that that would be the case. But then we looked into what the city was doing, and it turned out that there wasn’t much, that we know about at least. It’s more spread out. In a way, they see it more as a tourism booster and a community feel-good event.”

Abdalla points out that the Pink Palace’s ambitions aimed higher — and wider. “We are the museum of the history of Memphis and the Mid-South, so there’s no way we were going to tell the stories in ways they’ve already been told. We started out with these huge research documents, these large essays that tie into these themes. And then you have to cut that down in ways that retain those meanings. So the pods and timelines are stepping stones. We’re telling the stories that have always been told, but in different ways, as well as stories that haven’t been touched on in other tellings of Memphis’ story.”

This includes looking at the grimmer aspects of Memphis’ past with eyes wide open. How, I asked, would they confront the city’s history of slave trading?

“We talk about it in various places when it comes up,” says Carrico. “But we confront it in depth in our Commerce and Entrepreneurialism pod, where we talk about slaves as merchandise, which was Nur’s suggestion.” Abdalla adds, “And we have a child’s shackles, relating to the text on the pod. So that’s where the artifacts really enrich the meaning.”

Such facts, presented point-blank, speak for themselves, as Masler clarifies. “The slaves were a good that were bought and sold in Memphis. And we were able to talk about the slave dealers in that way. What we say is pretty straightforward. We don’t say ‘and this was slavery, and slavery was bad!’ We say, ‘People were sold and were considered like merchandise.’ And our hope is that people look at that and go ‘Oh, that’s horrible.'”

In some cases, past issues of oppression that live on today are better taken up in the chronological sections, rather than in thematic pods. “We were trying to figure out how to talk about the Confederate statues,” says Carrico, “something that is clearly an issue now, and has a long past. It turned out that it was best to tell it on the timeline. So you can show when the Civil War happened, then talk about the later Lost Cause mythology and the Nathaniel Bedford Forrest statue. Then, after King’s assassination, we talk about the Jefferson Davis statue. And in the very last section of the timeline, we talk about #takeemdown901. Because the last timeline goes up to the present day.”

As it turned out, representing our current history and its demographic shifts required some creative thinking. “We have an amazing collection here, but recent communities were more of a challenge. We didn’t want to just make it black and white. We’ve had a Chinese community here since the mid-19th century, and the Chinese Historical Society was great, because they’re a historical organization. But when we tried to collect from the Latino community, it was harder than we were expecting. Then, through a personal connection with a mom’s group, of all things, we were able to get a tortilla press and some indigenous instruments. Or, we realized we weren’t representing punk and women in music. So we found a Klitz artifact through Steve’s friend Marcia Clifton Faulhaber. It’s not always the organizations that you think are the best sources for a community. You have to work your relationships in different ways.”

Abdalla notes a positive side to these unorthodox methods: “Yes, the artifacts are a bit of a challenge, but also an opportunity, because now we’re developing connections with these new groups of people to build up our permanent collection in the future. This is what happens when you go out asking people for things.”

Though the team’s exhibit planning appears to have unfolded in classic Memphis style, relying on friends and friends of friends, it also embodies some cutting-edge thinking in museum design. As Masler explains, “In the museum world, there’s a lot of thought going into what community involvement really means. With our exhibit — and we have never designed and built from scratch, in house, an exhibit this complicated — the word cloud you enter through is totally done by what people said.”

To that end, nearly 30 pop-up events were held last year, either at the museum itself or in different communities, where people could note what Memphis meant to them, and, if they wished, be photographed and even recorded on audio. “Part of the whole thing was community input and inclusiveness,” Masler goes on. “So we did these different word clouds at different times of the year, different locations, different aged people. Different neighborhoods. Each one has its own character. Caroline’s idea was to lay them out on a map, so you could see that at this particular date, this particular place, these people said these were their words. Across the city as a whole, the most common word people said was ‘Home.'”

“And then,” Carrico adds, “we took these events that Nur was taking out into the community, and designed them into the exhibit in a seamless way. It was part of the design from the beginning. We didn’t want to ask their opinion and then just slap it on at the end.” Thus, a mural of those who agreed to be photographed will cover one wall, and a “community curated” display case will feature an iPad where visitors can vote on what will be displayed from month to month. “I think we’re starting with the Prince Mongo poster,” Abdalla notes with a mischievous grin.

Young Memphians have built one corner of the exhibit. “The education department’s installing these decorated lockers on one wall. We worked with different schools around the city to make lockers designed around the themes of the exhibit. … And the top three exhibits from each category will be featured.” In addition, a special day of free admission on March 3rd will feature performers, and at the end of the month, the Pink Palace will host a symposium on women’s suffrage as part of a series tied to next year’s centennial celebration of that watershed moment.

The most intense community involvement may be in the exhibit’s presentation of the city’s future. Not only will visitors see a “Trace Your Memphis Journey” display, where they create their own connections between themes using actual thread, they’ll see what the city has in store for us in the years to come. As Carrico explains, “At one point, we were struggling with how to end the exhibit. And that’s when the idea came up to incorporate Memphis 3.0 and the city planning process into it. So if you follow the timeline, toward the end, you’ll end up with a display on the Memphis 3.0 Plan, looking at how that planning process is impacting where we’re going forward.”

And, at the behest of the UrbanArt Commission, two artists from the Memphis 3.0 community engagement process, Yancy Villa-Calvo and myself, will have work presented. From 2017-18, Villa-Calvo staged many pop-up events with a large, graphic map of the city, on which people could mark their favorite places, and even record vignettes about themselves. My project, dubbed ReMix Memphis, hosted similar events, all concerning people’s reactions to the sounds of the city. For this, Pink Palace visitors will be treated to a large video game console on which they can play sounds familiar to all Memphians, including trains, tornado sirens, and cicadas. And, in the spirit of the word clouds, they can note what sounds they associate with the city and drop their card in a slot.

Simultaneously with the exhibit’s opening, a SoundCloud link will present original works by Memphis musicians like IMAKEMADBEATS, cellist Jonathan Kirkscey, and others, who added music to ReMix Memphis field recordings, to create an eerie sonic journey through the city via 16 original tracks.

This, then was the perfect finale for the ambitious, cutting-edge exhibit. As Abdalla says, “I think it’s great that we’re a part of continuing that process that Memphis 3.0 started, like collecting the sounds, or Yancy’s asset mapping. It’s that continual message of, ‘Hey, this is not ending. The Memphis 3.0 district meetings may be over, but this is still something ongoing.’ It’s a great way to end everything.” Carrico adds, “Our hope is that anybody who comes in will see something that is powerful to them. Be it a picture or an artifact, they can see themselves in the story.”

Categories
Book Features Books

Stranger Things

“The child is dead. There is nothing left to know.” So begins Black Leopard, Red Wolf (Riverhead Books), the fourth novel by Marlon James, the Jamaican author who won the Man Booker Prize in 2015 for his A Brief History of Seven Killings. The speaker is Tracker, Black Leopard‘s narrator, a mercenary with a nose, known for his ability to track anyone anywhere, once he has their scent. Tracker’s gift lands him a deceptively simple job when the Moon Witch Sogolon needs to find a missing child, a boy without a name but not lacking in importance.

Working for a third party, Sogolon assembles a fellowship to locate and return the stolen boy. At the outset, their ever-shifting party includes the wolf-eyed, keen-nosed mercenary Tracker; Leopard, a shapeshifting jungle cat; and Sadogo, a melancholy giant. And though Sogolon’s fellowship is strange, still stranger things await them.

Hallucinogenic and magical, the pages of Black Leopard, the first novel in a proposed trilogy, are populated by witches, monsters, and fantastical beasts. There’s the flesheater, Asanbonsam, and his brother, the bat-like, blood-sucking Sasabonsam. And Ipundulu, the vampiric lightning bird, whose victims — those who live — become his slaves, beguiled by his charge. And every person Tracker meets could be a shapeshifter, a man-eating lion or hyena taking the form of a human. Tracker’s all-powerful nose becomes invaluable in James’ land of shifting allegiances and layered narratives.

Tracker comes from one of the river tribes, though he claims no home and no family. He is a lover of men in a world where it is dangerous to be so, and a nonbeliever in a world of dozens of religions. “I don’t believe in belief,” Tracker says again and again. And the question is, how could he afford the luxury of certainty, in a world so defined by its history, but a history always partially obscured? In James’ novel, history is a black hole, invisible, hidden, but with an inescapable gravitational pull, warping reality around itself.

The wolf-eyed mercenary is a trickster detective — and a fitting narrator for James’ tale of a missing boy, a hidden history, and an uneasy fellowship. For truth, as much as the child, is what’s missing in the world of Black Leopard, Red Wolf. The story takes place at a turning point in a mythical Africa, infinitely diverse and complex, with many cultures represented, each with its own values and beliefs. It’s the end of the age of the oral historians, who sang the history of the land, and though glyphs are old news, it is the beginning of the time of phonetic writing. James has created a world whose history is informed by our own, even while it underscores the changing ways we look at truth in our digital age.

In an interview with The New Yorker, James said he studied African folklore and mythology, in its myriads forms, for two years before beginning the novel, and his research shows on every page. The world of Black Leopard is made up of dozens of interlocking and often conflicting narratives.

With both the novel’s prose and plot, James confronts the whitewashing of history — and of the fantasy and science-fiction genres, specifically. Much of the novel’s intrigue revolves around the co-opting of history by the Spider King Kwash Dawa’s royal ancestor, who, in a violent coup, not only departed from his peoples’ traditions, but erased them. He had the storytellers killed, and within a few generations, history was what the king said. Or at least, that’s what Tracker has been told.

Black Leopard, Red Wolf asks its readers to confront their beliefs, as with every discovery, Tracker calls into question what he has been told so far — and what he has deigned to pass on to the reader. And with intrigue that deep, there’s nothing left to do but cozy up and enjoy the mystery. Because the truth is, in James’ novel as in life, we may never know the whole truth.

Categories
News News Blog

MLGW Will Now Let Customers Pay Same Amount Each Month

Memphis Light, Gas and Water (MLGW) now has a way for customers to pay the same amount for utilities each month, rather than paying varying amounts from month to month.

Through MLGW’s program, Budget Billing, customers’ bills will stay the same amount each month, by spreading out your annual energy expense over a 12-month period.

MLGW said the program doesn’t reduce customers’ overall energy expense. Rather, it allows residents to know the exact amount they will pay each month, which the utility anticipates will help customers manage their household budgets better.

After enrolling in the program, the utility will analyze residents’ previous year’s total utility usage to predict monthly payments, adjusting for rate changes and weather conditions. Total usage is then divided between 12 months.

The utility will do monthly reviews to compare how much customers’ utility usage is versus how much their monthly installments are.

After a periodic review, monthly payments might be adjusted to match actual usage. At the end of the year, any under- or over-payment will be factored into the next year’s payment installments.

Customers can apply for the program via mail, phone, email, or the MLGW website. Residents must have lived at their current address for at least six months to participate.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Best Bets: Edge Alley Shrimp and Grits

Michael Donahue

Shrimp and grits at Edge Alley.

Shrimp and grits is a popular New Orleans dish. So, if you’re celebrating Fat Tuesday in the Bluff City instead of in the Big Easy, throw on some Mardi Gras beads and head over to Edge Alley for chef/owner Tim Barker‘s version of shrimp and grits.

I believe the first time I tried shrimp and grits was at City Grocery restaurant in Oxford, Miss. It was amazingly delicious. I probably thought at the time, “Who could have come up with such an amazing thing?”

That was decades ago. Over the years, I’ve eaten shrimp and grits in many locations, including buffets at parties.

Also over the years, I seem to forget there usually is meat of some kind in shrimp and grits. I’ll order it on a night when I don’t want meat and then suddenly I’m surprised to find chorizo peeping out of my grits.

Well, there’s no meat in Barker’s shrimp and grits at Edge Alley. They’re fabulous. Shrimp, grits, tomatoes, onions, garlic, herbs, and spices. An entree with as much comfort as a Stratolounger.

“I prefer the shrimp and grits that doesn’t have ham in it,” Barker says. “Or sausage. I don’t think it’s necessary. But roasting all the vegetables and getting that char, nice deep color, we’re able to achieve the same effect without adding ham.”

And, he says, “I’m not a fan of heavier, salty shrimp and grits. My goal with our recipe is to make a lighter, fresher, more healthful approach.”

There is butter in his shrimp and grits. “It’s not exactly ‘healthy.’ I put a fair amount of butter in it. But I’m in the camp that says butter is good for you. A lot of people have condemned butter, but everything in moderation. In a sauce made of roasted vegetables, a little butter won’t hurt you.”

Describing his shrimp and grits, Barker says, “Lilghtly blackened Gulf shrimp. The sauce is charred. Spicy-charred tomato sauce. And then our pimento cheese grits.

“The technique we use to prepare our grits is fluffier and lighter so they’re not heavy and gloopy. Mine are, from the outset, designed to be lighter and almost fluffy.”

I’ve added a video of Barker making his shrimp and grits like he does at home instead of in a larger quantity like he does at Edge Alley.

So, turn on the video and let the good times roll in Barker’s kitchen.

Edge Alley is at 600 Monroe No. 101; (901) 425-2605

Michael Donahue

Tim Barker

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Best Bets: Edge Alley Shrimp and Grits

Categories
Intermission Impossible Theater

The Second-Most Racist Thing I Ever Wrote

Even today you can look to any random corner of my bookshelf see where forGET SOMEthing came from. But what matters is where it didn’t come from.

Like many fragile, anxiety-ridden white men in America today, I worry that my decades-old experiments with blackface will go public. I fear the fallout will be catastrophic and am concerned, even now, that my opening sounds too much like some ironic personal essay plagiarized from McSweeney’s. Because, I’m not really afraid. But in this moment, with America browsing old middle school annuals and memory books — artifacts memorializing our intimate histories better than a journalist ever could — I wonder if there’s some value in reviewing my own worst judgment as an author and artist? It’s good to see better and more honest dialogues about privilege filtering out beyond academics, as the idea sinks into popular consciousness. But privilege has helpers and component parts and if we’re ever to dismantle all that, maybe it’s not a terrible idea to reflect on seduction, pride, nostalgia, and all the intellectual blind spots and emotional investments that can make glaring insensitivities seem like no big thing — that can make biases impossible to self-diagnose and easy to manipulate. 
[pullquote-1]Unlike so many U.S. high school graduates (apparently), I never did “blackface.” I did something much worse. In the 1990s, when I was a young artist working outside the mainstream and trying my best to get noticed, I wrote and produced an arty little play requiring three other white actors to wear the burnt cork. I wanted to offend. I wanted to shock people out of complacency and cause a damn riot like Alfred Jarry, the French pataphysician who infuriated audiences with the first word of Ubu Roi. Could theater even move people that way anymore, I wondered before embarking — with open heart, purest intentions, and a crew of mostly white friends — on a consequence-free journey to none of the answers.

Shortly after graduating from college I decided black people were imaginary. Not literally; it was how my angry, artist’s brain processed being poor and powerless and almost as shocked by the things I saw daily in the street, as I was my own relatively high standing in the social order. It was impossible not to notice discrimination everywhere, not to mention the politicized drug war and urban development that hid and warehoused people. More relevant to the second-most racist thing I ever wrote, as a college student studying communication theory and history, I’d grown to believe that a monolithic media culture folds images of minority life — including those of struggle and overcoming — into a vast white supremacist fantasy. This fantasy (that I now document as a media writer)  is what I meant by “imaginary.” It wasn’t hardly “woke,” but I might still be proud of  those big ideas today, if I hadn’t expressed them so profanely and illustrated them in my script with a minstrel show. 

Of course I didn’t stop to reflect on the absence of black representation in my own process — Welcome to the 1990s. Hindsight will cut you.  

It’s gonna get nerdy in here, but only for a paragraph. In his book The Theatre and Its Double, Antonin Artaud imagined ways theater might be more like painting, and I ate that stuff up, even though I didn’t totally understand it. I drifted into performing arts as a teenager, partly because I wanted to be a visual artist but had little aptitude for it. So it came to pass, enraptured as I was by grotesque figures in Bosch’s “Garden of Earthly Delights,” and drunk on Post-structuralism, I wondered if I might be able to make tiny plays that worked like a painting montage, using nightmare images plucked right out of the American dreamtime? Could I spin media tropes, religious iconography, a spectrum of kitsch and other mass replicated images into a comic vision of hell on Earth, where nothing good can ever be obtained absent a focused and sustained period of humiliation?

Dude.

The second-most racist thing I ever wrote was a brief, surreal farce about the rituals associated with getting a job from “Help Wanted,” and entering “normal,” adult life. A woman played the leading man; a man played the leading lady; and my script featured a two-faced villain lovingly crafted to remind the audience of every slick infomercial they’d ever seen, and of every shitty boss they’d ever worked for. The plot was borrowed entirely from the Bible, and opened with the most shocking image I could imagine: A pair of blackface actors forced into an eternal game of kicking each other in the ass. I named the 40-minute skit forGET SOMEthing after a promotional sign I’d seen hanging in a fast food restaurant that spoke both to my Gen X sensibility and to an idea I couldn’t shake: We’re not allowed access to “normal,” without participating in rituals so reprehensible we make ourselves forget instantly. Then somewhere between all the getting and forgetting we stop being able to differentiate between the rituals and their promised rewards. 

Theatre Memphis’s 1980s-era production of Caesar & Cleopatra.

forGET SOMEthing was heady, no doubt. It was angry, full of extreme imagery and lots of reliably hilarious scatology. The climactic line “There is some shit I will not eat!” marked a dramatic turnaround as the doomed hero pushed back against his/her abusive boss Mr. Peelum, and his disgusting demands of fealty. With this unlikely battle cry, all “traditional” things in the show were liberated. The audience cheered and cat-called when Adam shed his boyish cocoon to become a fully grown (and mostly nude) woman with fig leaves in all the appropriate places. The crowd responded similarly when Eve, a receptionist so underpaid he/she moonlights as a phone sex operator, swapped genders and approached her counterpart as in this famous picture of the artists Marcel Duchamp and Brogna Perlmütter. When it looked like old man Peelum was vanquished for good and some strange paradise was finally possible, the bad guy came back to life, transformed into the Satanic partner Mr. Edom, to murder Eve/Adam, crushing all hope for a happy ending.

“I’m the boss,” Mr. Edom snarled triumphantly, as the decorative heart Eve wore around her/his neck pumped blood across the stage. “You can’t get rid of me. All you can do is change my name.”

Scene.

I suppose it wasn’t all Artaud and Ubu. The Who snuck in there in at the end, and, adding insult to irony, I imagined the whole enterprise to be a kind of love letter to Douglas Turner Ward, whose white-face comedy, Day of Absence, is one of the great American plays. 

Now that the stage is set I should do a bit of housekeeping. Like, if forGet SOMEthing is the second-most racist thing I ever wrote, what’s the first? “Steal This Flag” is an essay born in fragility and out of my frustration with intractable public debate over Confederate iconography when action seemed necessary. If the rebel flag-huggers wouldn’t peacefully lay down their red white and blue security blankets, the next step was obvious — Somebody had to take the flag away. Somebody (read: African Americans) should appropriate that oppressive iconography, bear all its shameful weight, and change the flag’s meaning so completely that racists can’t recognize or accept it as their own. Radical, right? But strip that column to its skivvies, and what have you got but another white reporter telling black folks that racism is their mess to clean up? Chop chop, black folks:  time’s a-wasting. 

“Steal This Flag,” found an audience and got my hand shaken by many sensible and successful white people. And speaking of bullshit, I’m only able to say I’ve never performed in “blackface” because it’s my entire body they painted brown.

As America continues to pore over her recent past and an Old South kept forever young in the autographed pages of our high school yearbooks, I additionally wonder about all the kids whose intolerable stage moms signed them up to play Siamese children in community theater productions of The King and I. I think about the musical theater kids who painted themselves red and spoke broken English as one of the native Americans in “family-friendly” entertainments like Little Mary Sunshine or Annie Get Your Gun. Or the ones who landed one of those plum yellow-face “comic relief” roles in their high school’s beloved production of Anything Goes. This was the wholesome stuff, and it’s been everywhere.

I think about another teenage ritual that took place on stage: “slave auctions,” the annual homecoming event where varsity athletes were sold to the highest bidder to perform reasonable, between-class labors for a day. Then there’s that one weird time when I was 19 and so damn excited to be cast in my first big costume drama on the main stage at Theatre Memphis, I didn’t bat an eye when director Sherwood Lohrey told me to shave off all my body hair because I’d be playing Egyptian and naturally they needed me smooth and bronze from head to toe.

Naturally.

The smooth, bronze show in question was  G.B. Shaw’s, Caesar and Cleopatra and to promote Theatre Memphis’s lavish costumes, a full color photograph of me being made up and dressed, appeared on the cover of the Commercial Appeal’s entertainment section. It was 1987. Not yesterday, but modern times by anybody’s accounting, and I don’t think a soul working for the theater, or the newspaper, gave my afro-wig a second thought.  So I didn’t either. 

Dammitt Gannett (even though Gannett didn’t own the Commercial Appeal in the 1980’s). I was an EGYPTIAN soldier. The Romans didn’t have to shave their bodies, paint themselves brown, or wear afro wigs!

To my great disappointment/relief, nobody rioted when forGet SOMEthing opened at an art gallery in Memphis’s Edge district. Instead, pale denizens of the gallery scene belly laughed, snorted, and rewarded my bad behavior with crazy applause. I was a hit, and toasted by academics (who invited me to sit in and talk to their classes), and tastemakers (who invited me to dinner!) About year later I revived the sketch for another group show at a different downtown art gallery. [pullquote-2]
Word was out for the second show. The sweaty upstairs gallery packed fast and got crazier as the night went on. People had been drinking, and once the show started, everybody laughed and hooted so wildly I couldn’t hear or follow my own dialog. When the crowd laughed at the clowns — totally unable to hear a thing being said — I got the sickest, sinking-est feeling in my gut. Listening to all this instant feedback — the kind of uncontrollable laughter every wannabe playwright dreams of — I started to think that maybe I’d made an awful mistake. I still believed in what we were attempting and was proud of the actors and what we’d done together. But now a big chunk of me wanted to make the whole thing disappear forever. Instead of disappearing, a Memphis art magazine called Eye (now disappeared) ran a glowing feature and an interview with the local musician/actor who played twin villains, Peelum and Edom. I was mad that they hadn’t spoken to me because I wanted credit. Or blame. Basically, I wanted to start the explaining.

The guy all the way down right looking all mad? Me.

forGET SOMEthing marked the beginning of the end of my time as a producing artist. A few more original scripts made it to their feet and I spent a couple of years working through the Center for Independent Living, making art and activist theater available to people living with brain trauma, autism, Down Syndrome, and various other cognitive and physical challenges. But I mostly worked on other people’s projects before applying for a receptionist’s position with Contemporary Media, and accidentally becoming a professional critic.

Dennis Freeland, the Memphis Flyer editor who made me a full-time writer, called me into his office one day to scold me for writing “like a regular reporter.” It’s probably why I still feel compelled to invest time in pieces like this one. He said he wanted me to go big and weird and take risks and do what I could to tell Memphis’s story in ways you can’t approach using a reverse pyramid style. He wanted gonzo stories like the “Adventures of Shirtless Man,” and hot takes in the vein of my weird plays, and occasional forays into storytelling and performance art. So, even as a writer who matured in a liberal petri dish, when I look back at the stepping stones, I have to acknowledge the presence of supremacy and exploitation. It’s no excuse that I was raised in practical segregation and came of age working in a medium that still makes a regular practice of yellowface, blackface, and expedient erasure. But I’m not making excuses. Even it I wanted to, modern controversies related to bad judgment and vintage photos, aren’t well-answered with whys or wherefores. They’re part of a messy, overdue process of discovering whether or not we’ve learned anything since. 

The Second-Most Racist Thing I Ever Wrote

I‘ll close with a memory that’s time-embellished, but as close to a picture of the truth as I can paint. It all starts with an old high school friend standing beside her broken-down car on the shoulder of Highway 13, somewhere outside of Clarksville, Tennessee.  She was going to Nashville to audition for a nationally televised lip-synch contest called Putting On the Hits. It was the mid-1980’s, and my friend’s brown hair was frosted and teased high. One red stiletto heel was ruined, and mascara streaked her cheeks and stained her denim jacket. After coming to her rescue with another friend in tow, the three of us took my car to a convenience store where we bought White Mountain Coolers and Pink Champale, then drove to a nearby creek to sit fully clothed in the water and toss a pity party because misfits like us never catch an even break. My friend sobbed because she thought she’d let everybody down, especially Tina Turner, and the darker-than-normal makeup she’d worn to look like her favorite singer, ran in the cold current. There, in the middle of that creek, with, “What’s Love Got to Do With It,” blaring from the nearby car’s speakers, she performed her lip-synch routine for us, and in that twisted John Hughes-moment we were all as good, and loving, and perfect as three underage kids drinking and dreaming their hearts out can be. But here’s the twist folks: I’m not playing this conclusion for sympathy. That sweet picture is the strongest evidence of corruption I can conjure.

Now that I’m done with all this, I almost forget the point and don’t know for sure that I made it. I think it all had something to do with how surprised I was by everyone’s surprise at all the casual racism that went down during the best years of our lives. It’s not like we weren’t all there the first time.

The news from back home. Also, the 1980s.

Categories
Politics Politics Beat Blog

Confederate Statue Issue, Millington Fireworks Go Forward

JB

Greenspace president Van Turner looks over legal notes.

NASHVILLE — Shelby Countians interested in a pair of issues got no final answers to their concerns on Tuesday, as both the still simmering issue of Confederate statuaries and the prospect of legal fireworks sales in Millington advanced another notch toward resolution.

1) The saga of the deposed Memphis monuments that once honored Confederate heroes Nathan Bedford Forrest, Jefferson Davis, and one Captain Harvey Mathes proceeded through one more skirmish on Tuesday as a three-judge panel of the state Court of Appeals heard arguments for and against a continued injunction against further action by Greenspace, Inc. to relocate the statues it uprooted last December 20.

Allan Wade represented the City of Memphis in the proceeding, Chris Vescovo represented Greenspace, and Doug Jones represented the Sons of Confederate Veterans Nathan Bedford Forrest Camp 215. The judicial panel — composed by Richard Dinkins, Frank Clement Jr. and W. Neal McBrayer took the case under advisement.

The injunction was issued last year by Davidson County Chancellor Ellen Hobbs Lyle, per a request by the Sons of Confederate Veterans chapter .pending a final disposition by the Tennessee Historical Commission. Greenspace, inc., is an ad hoc nonprofit headed by lawyer Van Turner, who doubles as chairman of the Shelby County Commission.

The issue of the city’s right to sell the parks containing the monuments to Greenspace has previously been resolved in favor of the sale, though the Confederate side continues to  seek to relitigate that aspect of the matter on further appeal. At some point and in some form the case is almost certain to go to the state Supreme Court.

2) If the rest of the way goes as easy for adherents of fireworks sales in Millington as it did in the state House Commerce Committee on Tuesday, you can expect a fair share of future “rockets’ red glare and bombs bursting in air” to have emanated from a point of sale is Millington.

As various pro-fireworks individuals looked on in Commerce, HB 106 (by Rep. Barbara Cooper, D-Memphis) was approved by voice vote. The bill next goes to the House Finance Ways and Means Committee for approval. No one spoke against the bill in the Commerce Committee, but, according to Billie Howard of Millington, one of the bill’s supporters, its progress forward has been “something of a struggle.”

It has already passed the Senate, however; so its prospects have clearly improved. As of now, fireworks sales are legal across the state line in Mississippi and in Lakeland, which was grandfathered in before prohibitive legislation was passed some years ago.

JB

Greenspace president Van Turner looks over legal notes.

Categories
Sports Tiger Blue

Tigers 81, Temple 73

“[Jeremiah Martin] seems confident in himself at this point. He’s a driven guy right now.” — Temple coach Fran Dunphy

As he nears retirement at the end of the season, longtime Temple coach Fran Dunphy found himself the recipient of a gift basket from the Memphis Tigers before Tuesday night’s game at FedExForum. Then, as part of the send-off, Tiger guard Jeremiah Martin did what he’s done the entire month of February: score at will.
Larry Kuzniewski

Jeremiah Martin

Martin’s 30 points completed one of the most remarkable individual months in Memphis history and, more importantly, keyed a Tiger victory over a team they’re chasing in the American Athletic Conference standings. Martin hit 11 of 16 shots from the field, scoring 15 points in both halves to help Memphis avenge a loss at Temple on January 24th. Over eight games in February, Martin averaged 30.6 points to take over the AAC scoring lead. The win improves the Tigers to 18-11 on the season and 10-6 in AAC play, now one game back of the Owls (20-8 and 10-5 in the AAC).

“Martin speaks for himself,” said Dunphy after the Tigers completed their fifth win in six games. “He’s got so much savvy out there, a wonderful finisher at the rim. He made plays not just for himself, but also for others.”

Martin handed out five assists in helping the Tigers erase a 38-33 halftime deficit. He sparked a key 11-2 Tiger run over a three-minute stretch late in the second half, one that increased a three-point Memphis lead (57-54) to twelve points (68-56). His three-point play during the run followed a three-point shot from the left corner by senior forward Kyvon Davenport, who finished the game with 12 points.

“I’m just playing within the flow of the game,” said a typically humble Martin after the game. “Overall, it was a well-balanced game. Every game now is a playoff game. I love it; there’s pressure. We know what it takes to win a tough game, but we’re still learning.”

“Temple came here knowing they needed a win,” said Tiger coach Penny Hardaway. “They played desperate. They shot really well in the first half, but 37 percent for the entire game. To get this win, I’m proud of them. We shot 57 percent in the second half and that was crucial.”

Temple guard Shizz Alston — second only to Martin among AAC scorers, averaging 18.9 points per game — scored 22 points but missed nine of 11 three-point attempts, often guarded by Martin himself.

“When we’re right, we’re capable of doing some things people thought we couldn’t do,” said Hardaway. “We’re peaking at the right time and able to do some great things moving forward.”

Hardaway has sought a collective toughness in his first college team, and seemed to recognize it, particularly late in Tuesday’s win. “We’ve been really grinding it out,” said Hardaway, “even in the loss at UCF. We made some mental mistakes, but we showed that we’re capable of staying in there, sustaining, and fighting back. Today’s game was no different. It was a playoff game in our minds. Temple plays that slow, methodical game, and we hung in there. The toughness is there now.”

Freshman guard Antwann Jones came off the Tiger bench and scored 10 points in 19 minutes, his most on the scoreboard since January 10th. Senior forward Raynere Thornton pulled down 11 rebounds and added eight points.

The Tigers travel to Cincinnati for their next game Saturday against the 23rd-ranked Bearcats. It will be March of course, the month for madness in the world of college basketball. All Memphis — both the team and city — can hope for is Jeremiah Martin playing like it’s still February.

NOTE: I’ll be on the road this weekend and unable to report on the Cincinnati game. I’ll be back on press row for the regular-season finale (March 9th) and throughout the AAC tournament (March 14-17).

Categories
Film/TV Film/TV/Etc. Blog

Nicholas Roeg and Nubia Yasin On The Cinema Screen This Week in Memphis

Legendary director and cinematographer Nicholas Roeg passed away last year at age 90.

He was the second unit cinematographer on Lawrence of Arabia, and was then promoted to full director of photography for David Lean’s epic follow-up, Dr. Zhivago. But he and Lean clashed on set, and he was quickly fired.

This turned out to be a blessing in disguise, as Roeg went straight to the director’s chair himself, and stayed there. His first film as helmer was Performance, a stylish look at swinging ’60s London that starred Mick Jagger. He went on to direct David Bowie in his signature role, The Man Who Fell To Earth.

Last Wednesday, Indie Memphis started a mini-tribute to Roeg with Walkabout, a gorgeously shot 1971 film set in Australia that maintains a strong cult following.

This Wednesday at Studio on the Square, they will screen Roeg’s influential 1973 horror film Don’t Look Now. Donald Sutherland and Julie Christie star as a married couple looking for psychic answers in Italy after their daughter accidentally drowns. It includes a controversial sex scene and some serious scary face from Sutherland. Get those tickets here.

Nicholas Roeg and Nubia Yasin On The Cinema Screen This Week in Memphis

Across town at the Malco Ridgeway, the Morris and Mollye Fogelman International Jewish Film Festival concludes with the French film A Bag of Marbles (Un sac de billes). Based on the memoir of Joseph Joffo, Christian Duguay’s 2017 movie is a story of friendship between two young boys during the Nazi occupation of Europe.

Nicholas Roeg and Nubia Yasin On The Cinema Screen This Week in Memphis (3)

Thursday at THE CMPLX, the big winner at the 2018 Indie Memphis Youth Festival, “Sensitive” by director Nubia Yasin and screenwriter Sage Scott, returns to the screen. The short film about a young Memphis man trying to live up to an elusive and toxic masculine ideal will be followed by a panel discussion with queer black men on their struggles for recognition and acceptance. The night will conclude with a feature film, 2011’s Gun Hill Road

Nicholas Roeg and Nubia Yasin On The Cinema Screen This Week in Memphis (2)