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SOUTHERN COMFORTS

While speaking at an academic conference on (of all things) barbecue, John Shelton Read, professor emeritus at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, was quoted as saying, “Barbecue,like jazz, sometimes changed when it left the South. And, like jazz, not always for the better.” This is why no self-respecting pitmaster wants to be known as the Kenny G. of barbecue.