I’m a great lover of the bean, so my favorite dishes tend to be some variation on pottage. A well-made plate of red beans and rice can be as grand as any cassoulet, and when the weather turns icy and cruel, hoppin’ John rules my world. About the only legume-based dish I’ve never been able to fully embrace is the refried bean, and I’ve often wondered, given all the fantastic bean dishes I’ve enjoyed out west, why local Mexican restaurants don’t distinguish themselves by offering something different. Enter Las Delicias and one of the best bowls of charro beans I’ve ever eaten.
