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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Well-Oiled

Before Sandy Barrios opened the specialty olive oil and vinegar shop Bazaar with her husband John and partner Sheila Smith Thomas, she worked in the insurance industry.

“This is literally the first time I’ve ever sold anything that was fun. Did you ever have fun buying insurance?” Barrios asks.

Justin Fox Burks

Sandy Barrios of Bazaar says, “You’re getting the freshest oil available.”

Bazaar, which opened late last year at Carriage Crossing in Collierville, is billed as a “crazy little food shop,” but with its rustic décor, it couldn’t be more inviting.

Tasting cups sit next to each flavor olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Tasting before you buy is not only expected but encouraged. Four bottle sizes are available, and prices start at $4 for 60 milliliters up to $24.99 for 750 milliliters.

The store is currently rotating 40 flavored and traditional vinegars and oils, the latter of which are from the Southern Hemisphere and were harvested in the spring. “You’re getting the freshest oil that’s available, and that comes through in the taste,” Barrios says.

According to Barrios, Bazaar’s staff hasn’t had to do nearly as much education on the concept as they anticipated. “It’s so much fun to sit back and watch. They’ll taste one and you’ll just hear them say, ‘Ah … oh wow!'”

Bazaar, 4630 Merchant Park Circle at Carriage Crossing (861-7218)

bazaaroliveoil.com

When Carol and Sam Braslow took a vacation to Pensacola in May, they weren’t expecting to leave with a business plan. “There was a store there called the Bodacious Olive. I’d never seen anything like it in my life,” Carol says.

With their store The Mighty Olive, the Braslows would be filling a niche that they hadn’t known existed. They had been looking for a new business to create since Sam’s family sold famed A. Schwab two years prior. They found a spot in Laurelwood and signed the lease in August. They opened November 11th and originally wanted to keep it quiet. “But then everybody found out about it!” Sam says.

Justin Fox Burks

They currently have 50 oils and vinegars on rotation, and there’s a bar for patrons to watch demonstrations as well as mull the tasting possibilities.

“I like to mix the chocolate vinegar and the coconut vinegar and the almond oil and make an Almond Joy,” Sam says of his favorite concoction.

Their Tuscan Herb olive oil, blackberry ginger balsamic vinegar, and fig balsamic vinegar have been among the top sellers. Bottle sizes range from 200 milliliters for $10.98 up to 750 milliliters for $24.98. Additionally, they have pasta, cheese, books, Olivina bath products, and chocolate from Ethereal Confections for sale.

Says Carol, “We’ll make you a believer before you leave.”

The Mighty Olive, 4615 Poplar at Laurelwood Collection (240-6226)

themightyolive.com

After 32 years of taking care of animals, veterinarian Kenny Ford is ready to take a chance on the tastes of the two-legged species as he prepares to open The Square Olive in March at Overton Square.

Ford plans to start with around 24 oils and vinegars available in-store and will have handmade soaps and lotions made with olive oil by his sister. He also plans on renting his space for small oil education gatherings.

The distributor that Ford will be working with will bring in a supply of oils from Argentina, but it might be just a matter of time before you’re dressing your salad with fruits harvested in the South.

“I’ve been looking, and there are a lot of domestic olive oil vineyards, mostly out West. Some are now coming to Florida and southern Alabama and Georgia,” he says. “Everything doesn’t have to come from the Mediterranean or doesn’t have to be imported. I won’t be limited to just one source, one place, one region of the country.”

As of November, Ford officially hung up his stethoscope.

“Instead of doing 50 to 60 hours a week at a veterinary clinic, I’ll be doing it at a store,” Ford says. “It’s different. I’ll meet different people. It’s a totally different thing.”

The Square Olive, 2094 Trimble in Overton Square

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Get Your Fill

Cash Saver in Midtown is breaking new ground by becoming the first grocery store in the city to set up a full-scale growler station in-store.

The spot, which opened last week, is known as the Madison Growler Shop, and it’s the baby of craft-beer manager Taylor James. “I think it adds a level of cool to us,” he says.

The Madison Growler Shop has 30 beers on tap, including Schlafly, Abita, Yazoo, and Lazy Magnolia. Customers can bring their own “growlers” or purchase one from the store for $5. Cost for a fill-up will range between $4 and $14, depending on the beer.

James is hoping to bring in more millennials to the store in addition to educating those who’ve never heard of the growler concept or want to learn more about beer.

“I will take an hour and talk to somebody about beer, that’s fine,” says James, who, for now, plans to keep the growler concept exclusively at the Midtown store.

“I want this to feel like home and have that small-town mom-and-pop-store feel again, ’cause that’s what we are,” James says. “Not only can you get your growler, you can go get your steak that you’re gonna have with it.”

1620 Madison

David Smith and Anthony Bond were chatting over beers one evening last fall, when, as one tends to do when sipping and sharing, they got to talking about their jobs. “It’s fair to say we were both burnt out and looking to do something different,” Bond says.

Their backgrounds — Smith’s in art; Bond, health care — didn’t quite set the stage for what they wanted to do, but they decided to do it anyway. Bond opened his own growler spot in Chattanooga in August and, in partnership with Smith, opened The Growler about two weeks ago in Cooper-Young.

“When David and I talked about the concept, we wanted it to be the Starbucks for craft beer,” Bond says. “The aura, the atmosphere, the layout will be the same, but beers will be a little bit different in each market, depending on what’s available.”

The Growler features 24 beers on tap, priced between $10 and $14. Customers can bring their own growler or buy one for $5.

Half the beers come from local brewers, which provides the ideal opportunity for what Bond is planning to call a “tap takeover,” where local brewery representatives will come in and educate patrons about their brand. The Growler’s owners are also working with a nearby restaurant to supply food, and they’re hoping to hold pairing events with local restaurants and make the space available for private events.

For now, Smith will manage the day-to-day operations of the Memphis shop alongside Columbus transplant (and his future son-in-law) Kevin Eble. Bond, who lives in Chattanooga, will focus on the research and business aspects and is planning to open more shops in other markets in the region.

Bond says they’re not looking to reinvent the wheel but rather create the ideal experience. “Memphis is already very knowledgeable about their craft beers and what they like, and we’re simply gonna provide that market.”

921 S. Cooper (410-8223)

Heather Reed admits that up until three years ago her attitude toward beer was that she “did not like it at all — at all.” It was her old college friend Bryan Berretta who turned her around by introducing her to craft beer.

The timing was good, because Reed and Berretta were planning on going into business together and Berretta was fixed on it being the beer business.

“Three years ago, if I had come to her with this idea, she would have said absolutely not,” says Berretta. “There are so many different types of beer — especially in the craft-brew industry — so many very diverse ways of brewing that it’s just a matter of discovering what your palate is and going from there.”

That diversity and understanding is what they are seeking to bring to the Memphis Filling Station, a growler facility they are opening together in East Memphis in the spring.

While they’re still in the process of securing a space, the pair feels that East Memphis gives them the advantage to stand out and reach a different part of the city, one that may not be so keen to make the trip to Midtown for a growler fill.

“We [said], ‘Who needs us? Let’s go there,'” Berretta says.

They’ve concentrated hard on building a presence on social media and with their website, which has a wish-list feature for visitors to leave comments on which brews they’d like to see offered. In addition to offering about 30 local and national beers on tap, Reed says they want to make the experience fun for the entire family by also offering snacks, root beers, ice cream, and cream sodas for kids — all of which they are hoping will make them stand out among the competition.

memphisfillingstation.com

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Madison Growler Shop at Cash Saver Opens Today

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Finally, you can pick up your freshly filled growler along with tonight’s dinner at the Cash Saver in Midtown beginning at noon, when their growler station, Madison Growler Shop, opens for business.

Bring your own growler — or purchase one from the store for $5 — and fill up from their selection of 30 beers (Schlafly, Lazy Magnolia, Yazoo, etc.) they have on tap. The cost will range between $4 and $14 for a fill-up, says beer manager Taylor James (pictured), and they will be filling until 7 p.m.

“We’re excited to start pouring,” says James.

Follow the Madison Growler Shop on Twitter, @madisongrowler. Follow Taylor James, @taylorhjames.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Sweeties

Twenty-eight-year-old Leena Asbridge had been working as a field examiner for First Tennessee, but the travel schedule was getting to her. It felt like a good time to start a business: “When we would travel, we would look for somewhere to get dessert or candy and always end up at Fresh Market dipping into the jars of candy,” Asbridge says. “Everybody loves candy.”

Asbridge’s sweets’ shop, Sweet Noshings, offering an array of treats from the standard Hershey’s brands, dried fruit and nuts, and chocolate-covered pretzels to RingDings and malted milk balls, opened in Overton Square a couple weeks ago.

“It’s something truly unique to the Square,” says Elizabeth Berglund, community relations director for Loeb Properties, which leases space in Overton Square. “The fact that someone like Leena, who had a very successful career in the corporate world, was so passionate about opening a candy store specifically in Overton Square really made us excited for her to be a part of it.”

With custom-built cabinetry, benches, and salvaged furniture, Sweet Noshings has a modern industrial feel enhanced by down-home decorations. An old sewing bench nestled in the corner now functions as a candy stand; a chandelier with lime-green bulbs hangs not far from a suspended bicycle, along with various kitchen appliances that were spraypainted and hung directly above the glass jars of candy.

The candy may be the main draw, but Asbridge wants you to stay for the gourmet popcorn that is made in-house and comes in more than 20 flavors. “We’ll have anything from caramel to vanilla and green apple, and then we’ll have all the cheese flavors, then we’ll have all the chocolate varieties — chocolate with Oreos, chocolate with marshmallows,” she says.

Visitors can create their own bulk bags of candy and nuts, as well as design their own popcorn. They can come enjoy a cup of Ugly Mug coffee with a yogurt parfait, muffin, or oatmeal for breakfast. They can get a cookie or slice of cake too: “Everybody gets something,” Asbridge says. “If mom and dad want cake and the kids want gummy worms, everybody can come to one place and sit down. We’re not all eating yogurt and we’re not all having cookies — we’re picking what we want.”

2113 Madison (731-446-8499)

For Phillip Ashley Rix, owner of the recently opened Cooper-Young boutique Phillip Ashley Chocolates, all it took was a taste of a subpar gourmet chocolate to make him think, Man, I can do better.

At the time, he was working with FedEx and had started looking into culinary schools, but it would be awhile before he set foot in a kitchen or even began playing with his own flavors. First, he did some reading — for two years. “All I did was study chocolate and study spices, study ingredients, how we taste, the zones of the palate,” he says. “I never went after this as a hobby.”

A graduate of Bartlett High School and Middle Tennessee State University, Rix moved away and spent more than a decade working in sales and supply-chain management for corporations including UPS, FedEx, and Apple, the latter of which brought him back home to Memphis in 2009. That same year, he finally got into the kitchen and began teaching himself how to blend his own flavors to create the sweets he had been dreaming of. He launched his online chocolate company Chocistry in 2009, later rebranding it Phillip Ashley Chocolates in 2012, after he left his job and went full-time with the brand.

His creations look like they belong in a jewelry box. They are hand-painted in vibrant eye-catching hues and infused with flavors of champagne, passion fruit, egg nog, ginger snaps — and even liquid smoke, as in his cobalt-blue Memphis BBQ chocolate.

The flavors are inspired by what Rix himself likes, including his two-layer Key Lime Chocolate. “I’m a big key lime pie fan, but no one ever thinks about the crust,” he says of his stacked chocolate of key lime rum, marscapone, and graham cracker. “Each piece is communicating with you in a different way. That’s why I say that every chocolate should tell a story. Every piece has a name, every piece has a different look. The flavors have a purpose,” Rix says.

The chocolates are 35 cents a gram; gift boxes run $25 for a six-piece box. Rix wants customers to understand that they are paying for more than just a piece of candy. They’re paying for an experience: “We use the best ingredients. We spend a lot of time making sure everything is beautiful. We don’t just throw anything out here. We respect our customers enough to give them the best all the time. Consistency is our friend,” he says.

The shop holds artwork by Kris Keys and Yancy Calvo-Villa, and are part of Rix’s vision to have a rotating gallery of work by local artists. On Tuesdays, when the shop is open by appointment only, guests are welcomed with a glass of champagne. “We just try to be sexier in the way we present,” says Rix, pointing out that even the boxes, which bear his signature, have magnetic closures. It’s all part of his designer aesthetic.

“I don’t want to just be another chocolate company. I don’t want to just be ‘Oh, the local Memphis shop.’ We love being the local shop, but we’re not just a local shop,” he says. “How great would it be to say, ‘The best chocolate you’ll ever taste in the world is based in Memphis’?”

798 S. Cooper (207-6259)

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Good for You

If you like your food spicy, chances are there’s a bottle of hot sauce somewhere in your kitchen. It might be a generic store brand or the how-did-we-exist-before? Sriracha. They’re good, sure, but are they crazy good?

Jim O’Brien would answer that with a big, fat no, though as the founder of the Crazy Good line of condiments, he’s admittedly biased.

The 38-year-old chef-turned-entrepreneur is the brains behind peppery concoctions with names like Chaos Theory, Fruits of Fire, and Raging Pineapple. “I can’t put out a product that I don’t think is crazy good. It’s about accountability for me,” O’Brien says of the copyrighted name.

Justin Fox Burks

From Shabam! to Chaos Theory and beyond

The Crazy Good line includes five hot sauces, a wing sauce, a salsa, and two chile powders and are sold at Cash Saver, Whole Foods, City Grocery, Miss Cordelia’s, Superlo, and Krogers within Shelby County. It’s also served in some 20 restaurants — Alchemy, Bardog Tavern, Slider Inn, and Young Avenue Deli, among them — around the city. O’Brien is planning to roll out 10 new products in 2014, including a cornbread mix, catfish breading, and Bloody Mary mix.

O’Brien is a St. Louis native who came to Memphis after dropping out of high school. He spent his early 20s learning the ins and outs of a professional kitchen under chefs such as Erling Jensen and Rick Farmer. He then left the city to go to culinary school and eventually wound up in Albuquerque.

The Southwest completely changed O’Brien’s culinary landscape. He was introduced to hot and meaty New Mexico chiles, which are added to everything. “You order anything in a restaurant, they’re going to ask, ‘red or green?’ Do you want red chile or do you want green chile? And if you can’t make up your mind, you say ‘Christmas,’ and you get both,” he says.

O’Brien was working for a food distributor when, on the side, he began working with clients who participated in barbecue competitions, bringing a level of standardization to their work. Soon, others began asking him when he was going to develop his own products, and he realized that actually wasn’t a bad idea. He began brainstorming, set a few guidelines (all-natural, unique, gluten-free), and started experimenting with a few sauce concoctions of his own.

Justin Fox Burks

Though his sauces are indeed hot, O’Brien maintains that he focuses on the food before the pepper in his product development.

“I think when people focus on a certain pepper that they want to use, or a certain spice, those end up being almost a novelty product that becomes too hot for anyone to enjoy. I’m looking at ‘What are we making? What are we using this for?’ At the end of the day, everything’s meant to be enjoyed and to be used on food,” he says.

O’Brien created his hot pineapple, green-hued Southwest Sweet Heat sauce as a complement to fish tacos, and s’mores served as the fire starter for the Chaos Theory Ghost Pepper Sauce. Chaos Theory is O’Brien’s personal favorite and is filled with flavors of cocoa, orange, ginger — and enough ghost peppers to give the back of your throat a nice burn. The Memphis-inspired Shabam! Sauce is a more tame option and can be used on everything from barbecue to red beans and rice.

“I was always kind of annoyed with the fact that Louisiana sauces are a go-to staple for everything when they don’t truly fit the foods of different regions,” O’Brien says, noting that his aim with Crazy Good was to create something that paired well with such regional fare as cornbread, greens, chicken, and catfish. “Personally,” he says, “I think I nailed it.”

crazygoodsauces.com

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Sweet Noshings Soft Opening Set for Wednesday

You’ve got all day tomorrow to eat as much turkey and stuffing as you please — why not take today and fill up on candy?

The Overton Square shop Sweet Noshings is finally removing the paper from its windows and will have a soft opening at 10 a.m. today at their space on 2113 Madison. The store is owned by 28-year-old Leena Asbridge, a former field examiner at a bank, who signed the lease on the space in July and has been working hard to turn the one-stop candy shop into a reality.

Though Sweet Noshings’ original projected opening date of Halloween was missed, customers can still find pre-packaged fun sizes of Kit Kats, Bit-O-Honeys, and a near-overflowing jar of candy corn.

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Going beyond your regular Snickers and M&M fare (though you can get those too), the shop aims to please every type of sweet tooth with a selection that includes classic colored and striped hard candies, chocolate-covered gummy bears, and even dried fruit and nuts, all available by the pound. The kitchen is popping up fresh, sweet-drizzled gourmet popcorn and serving muffins and cake by-the-slice. There’s not just sweets coming from the candy store, though – you can find freshly brewed Ugly Mug coffee or grab a bowl of hot Umpqua oatmeal from the bar.

“We look forward to seeing all of Memphis come out and see what we have,” says Asbridge

The store will be closed on Thanksgiving, but Asbridge says they will re-open Friday at 7 a.m.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Eb’s Cookies: “Best Cookies Ever” and a Pop-Up Shop

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What do you get when you cross a new mom with a knack for baking, who is seeking a creative outlet outside of her growing family?

You get cookies … and you get ideas.

“Baking kind of takes me to a happy place,” says Ebony Clark, who was pondering what to do while on maternity leave once she gave birth to her second child in 2011. She began researching a few recipes online and experimenting with flavors, and arrived at a few prototypes, including what would become her signature milk chocolate and white chocolate Tuxedo cookie.

She began offering her cookies to friends at game nights at her home, and word got out that Eb’s Cookies were pretty good – good enough that she started taking orders from within her circle. Around Father’s Day of that same year, Clark, who had worked as an accountant, decided to market herself as a business and created cookie baskets as gifts. “I got several orders, which I thought was pretty good for my first time in the business,” she remembers.

Things have only grown from there, and now cookie connoisseurs from all over the country can place an online order starting at a $10 half-dozen or $20 dozen of cookies, which she bakes out of her home in Cordova.

Ebs Tuxedo cookie

  • Eb’s Tuxedo cookie

Sweet Potato cookie

  • Sweet Potato cookie

Flavors range from classic oatmeal raisin, peanut butter, and snickerdoodle to her specialty Sweet Potato Cookie that has a pecan crumble on top.If you order in town, she can even ensure a personal delivery if one so chooses.

Clark might be new to the baking world, but her cookies, boldly touted on Eb’s website as the “best cookies ever,” are not for amateurs.

“Even McDonalds and Subway have decent cookies – but my cookies are created with a lot of care – these aren’t just your average cookies for kids,” she says.

As far as longevity, Clark feels that she on the right track. She’s holding a pop-up event the Sunday before Thanksgiving, and is looking at opening up a stand-alone store by the middle of next year.

Her family assists with packaging and sales, and her 4- and 2-year-old girls are always offering to stir. “I have dreams of my daughters being cookie heirs one day,” she says.

Clark will hold a pop-up shop on Sunday, November 24th from 2 to 5 p.m., at 6373 Quail Hollow Rd Ste 102.