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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Recipe for Success

It has been a banner year for Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman of Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen and Hog & Hominy.

So far, the pair has been named two of the Best New Chefs of 2013 by Food & Wine, and their second restaurant, Hog & Hominy, was named one of GQ‘s Most Outstanding Restaurants of 2013 and one of the South’s Best New Restaurants by Southern Living. It also received a glowing review in The New York Times.

But 2013 isn’t over yet, and Ticer and Hudman aren’t finished racking up milestones. On September 3rd, their first cookbook, Collards & Carbonara: Southern Cooking, Italian Roots (The Olive Press), hits the stands. We sat down to find out more about the next big step for two of Memphis’ hottest chefs.

Memphis Flyer: You guys have been busy this year. How long has this cookbook been in the works?

Ticer: We were approached by Patti Clauss, the recruiter for Williams-Sonoma. She’d been to Andrew Michael a few times and liked what we were doing.

Hudman: They talked to us two years ago about doing a book. We were like, “Hell, yeah!” And then six months went by, and we didn’t hear anything.

Ticer: We kind of gave up on it. Then, a year later, they got in touch with us again, and we were like, “Hell, yeah! We’re ready to rock.” And they were like, “You’ve got a year to do it.”

Hudman: We had a year to do it, and we procrastinated for six months.

Ha! So, when it came time to sit down and work, how did you start culling your recipes?

Hudman: Originally, the book was just going to be the first five years at Andrew Michael. But then our editor, Jen Newens, came to Hog & Hominy and she [said], “No way. This has to be in the book.”

How even is the distribution of Andrew Michael recipes and Hog & Hominy recipes?

Ticer: Pretty even. Vegetables and desserts are pretty much from Hog & Hominy, the pastas are pretty much from Andrew Michael, the starters are from both, and the entrées are from Andrew Michael.

Hog & Hominy is more elevated casual food, whereas Andrew Michael is fine dining. Did you find it easy to mix the two styles in the book?

Ticer: Yeah, and we made it more approachable for cooking at home. We know it’s hard to cook restaurant food at home, so we definitely geared this toward the home kitchen.

Hudman: The book gives you different levels. There’s stuff that any novice cook can do, but there’s also a medium-level challenge, and then, at the end of the book, the tasting menu will let you flex your fancy-cooking muscles.

What’s next for you two? Do you plan on doing another book?

Hudman: There are a few other restaurants we want to do, a few other concepts. I swear, I think we could have two or three restaurants in the next three years. And then a butcher shop, for sure — a place where we can really showcase local farms and their products and the art of butchery. It’s something we’ve always wanted to do.

Ticer: As for [another] book, absolutely. We hope to start one this January.

Hudman: It’s been a cool experience. In five years, we’ll be able to look back at this snapshot of everything we’ve done up until this point.

Ticer: We might look back and think, What the hell were we thinking?

Hudman: Yeah. But what I love about this book is it’s more than just recipes. You can dive into what really makes us tick and things that inspire us.

Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman are hosting a release party for the book on September 3rd, at 5:30 p.m., at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen and Hog & Hominy, featuring special guests Preston Van Winkle of Pappy Van Winkle bourbons and chefs John Currence, Tien Ho, Mike Lata, and Kelly English. Tickets to the event are $125 per person and include a signed copy of Collards & Carbonara, plus cocktails, wine, and food. Proceeds benefit the Southern Foodways Alliance. To purchase your ticket, call Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen at 347-3569.

There will be a booksigning for Collards & Carbonara at the Williams-Sonoma Germantown store, on Saturday, September 7th, at noon.

Collards & Carbonara is available for pre-order from Amazon.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Midtown Magnetism

As Cooper-Young continues to blossom and Overton Square comes back to life, Midtown is proving a magnet for new restaurant concepts and established favorites alike.

In 1987, Bill Latham and Al Roberts opened the first Amerigo in Jackson, Mississippi. In 1997, the pair brought the popular Italian restaurant to Memphis. Now, Latham and Roberts are exporting another popular Jackson restaurant to Memphis: Babalu, a tacos and tapas joint, will join the ongoing revival of Overton Square in early 2014.

The popular Jackson eatery is the latest to come from Latham and Roberts’ Eat Here Brands, which is also responsible for Interim in East Memphis. Known for its fresh guacamole, crafted tableside with a mortar and pestle, Babalu’s menu is eclectic but with a distinctly Spanish bent. Many of the offerings, like blue hull corn tacos, tamales, and various tapas, will be the same core items from the Jackson location. But Latham and Roberts said the executive chef in the Overton Square spot, who has yet to be hired, will have space to get creative with daily specials and appetizers.

“The focus is on high-quality ingredients, freshly prepared,” Roberts said. “We mix and match different ethnic foods with a Southern flair.”

In the former T.G.I. Friday’s space, Babalu is poised to bring back the electric atmosphere of Overton Square with an indoor and outdoor bar and plenty of handcrafted cocktails.

“I remember Overton Square back in the late ’60s and early ’70s, back when T.G.I. Friday’s was there and Lafayette’s Music Room and Bombay Bicycle Club. It was a great area,” Latham said. “We’re happy there will be restaurants all around us. It just brings more energy to the area.”

Babalu, 2113 Madison, babalums.com

Muddy’s Bake Shop, the celebrated cupcake mecca, has been luring sweet-toothed customers to its East Memphis location since it opened in 2008. Last week, owner Kat Gordon announced she will open a second location — something fans have been hounding after for a while — on Cooper, just north of the Cooper-Young neighborhood.

“For the first couple of years, I was so opposed to the idea [of expanding], but when you have a really great team of employees, you have to give them a chance to grow or they’ll leave you,” Gordon says. “So I’ve been thinking about how to do that without losing the heart and soul of who we are.”

But not losing the heart and soul of Muddy’s doesn’t mean Gordon wants to clone her original bake shop. In the charming, 1,800-square-foot house at 585 S. Cooper, Gordon will grow her second location into something all its own.

“I have no interest in trying to replicate the other Muddy’s. I think it’s important for that store to retain its own identity,” Gordon says. “This will be a sibling business, so there will be overlap. I’m not about to tell the people of Midtown that they can’t have their Prozac [cake], but I have a lot of time, while the construction is going on, to think about what the menu will look like, what it will have in common with the other store, and what will be different.”

Gordon is exploring the possibility of offering more J. Brooks Coffee, for instance, and considering converting the house’s large yard into a patio. Construction will continue through the rest of the year, and Muddy’s Midtown — what Gordon anticipates her patrons will dub the new shop — should open in early 2014.

“The sentimental part of me really wants to open in February, because that’s when the [first] shop opened,” she says. “It would have a lovely symmetry to it.”

Muddy’s Bake Shop,

5101 Sanderlin (683-8844)

muddysbakeshop.com

Categories
News The Fly-By

Open House

If you think the housing market has taken it on the chin, you can imagine what the downturn has done to historic homes.

Lately, though, things are looking up for Memphis’ oldest residences. The Magevney House on Adams downtown, shuttered by city budget cuts in 2005, will reopen its doors to the public starting September 7th.

The grand reopening follows closely on the heels of the Mallory-Neely House’s reopening as a historic house museum last November. It was also closed in the 2005 budget season. Both the Magevney House and the Mallory-Neely House are operated by the Pink Palace Family of Museums.

On top of an already tight financial situation, the homes were forbidden to reopen without making accommodations to come into compliance with the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA).

The renovations proved to be a difficult undertaking for the Mallory-Neely House. The city funded a new ramp for the back of the house, along with some ADA-approved bathrooms, but the second story of the home remains off-limits to visitors with disabilities. Instead, those visitors are offered a virtual video tour of the second floor — also funded by the city — which is screened in the carriage house behind the home.

The Magevney House found itself in a similar predicament. A two-bedroom clapboard house, dwarfed by the surrounding buildings in the heart of downtown, the home is so small that structural changes to make the home wheelchair-accessible would compromise the historical integrity of the home. As an alternative, the Pink Palace created a virtual tour of the Magevney House, which will also be on display at the Mallory-Neely carriage house.

“We had ADA consultants, funded by the city of Memphis, come in and do an audit and tell us what could be done. It was determined that the only way to make the Magevney House 100 percent compliant would ruin the historical character of the house,” Creel said. “[The virtual tour] is the same length as a real tour, and we point out the same artifacts in the same order as a real tour.”

The Magevney House was built by Irish immigrant Eugene Magevney in the 1830s and serves as a snapshot of antebellum life in the South. Here, the city’s first Catholic baptism and first Catholic wedding took place, and next door sits the historic St. Peter Catholic Church, founded in part by the Magevney family. Eugene Magevney died in the yellow fever epidemic of 1873, but the home remained with the family until it was given to the city in 1941.

The family stipulated that the house be open to the public free of charge, unlike the Mallory-Neely House, which is able to charge admission to visitors. The stipulation creates a sticky wicket for operating and maintaining the historic home, and though the city funds maintenance of the property, the daily operating costs of the home are left to the Pink Palace. Without any extra funding to reopen the Magevney House, Creel said the Pink Palace is relying on its devoted staff and generous volunteers to keep the home open every first Saturday of the month from 1 to 4 p.m.

“We’re stretching, but we think we’ll have enough money to do this by judiciously watching every hour somebody’s on duty,” Creel said. “It’s a part of Memphis history that we’d like to share with the public. I wish it were open more often, but we’re doing the best with what we’ve got.”

Categories
Film Features Film/TV

Spectacular, Now

There is something spectacular about Miles Teller.

Not simply Miles Teller as Sutter Keely in James Ponsoldt’s The Spectacular Now — a part that may as well have been written for him— but Teller as a rising actor with an irresistible, boyish charm and a sensitivity that peeks through his impish smile. Even as the goofy sidekick, Willard, in Craig Brewer’s remake of Footloose, Teller displayed a depth that was poised for the right moment to reveal itself.

That moment is now, it seems. In The Spectacular Now, based on the book by Tim Tharp, Teller takes on the role of Sutter Keely, a hail-fellow-well-met and lovable class clown who instantly wins over the audience, and almost as instantly wins over Aimee Finecky (Shailene Woodley), a studious wallflower who discovers him passed out on a lawn while she’s delivering papers one morning. Sutter, a sweet-talking zen-master of living in the now — as long as the “now” includes taking slugs from a flask, keg parties in the woods, and girls — draws Aimee from her shell, and in turn, the viewer hopes, Aimee will shake him into a sense of purpose.

The two are an unlikely pair, but the playful banter and tender, awkward romance are genuine enough to buoy the relationship — long enough for Sutter’s more profound struggles to hit the viewer like multiple punches to the gut. His penchant for drink is nascent alcoholism. His boyish charm is the earliest stage of lifelong suspended adolescence. His playfulness is an unwillingness to face his future and the fact that he might not graduate high school. “I don’t see what’s so great about being an adult,” he tells his geometry teacher, whose class stands between Sutter and graduation. “Are you happy?”

At the root of Sutter’s hangups is a failed relationship with his father, a familiar scenario that borders on the trite. But Ponsoldt doesn’t devote too much of the film to Sutter’s deadbeat dad. More is focused on the aftermath of his father’s abandonment, and whether or not Sutter will, as his boss laments, ever “yank [himself] out of neutral.” A testament to Ponsoldt’s discernment, the ending is not tidy, nor are the lessons here.

Indeed, up-and-coming indie director James Ponsoldt has given us one of the best coming-of-age films of late with The Spectacular Now. In his honest, good-faith treatment of teenage characters, mercifully absent is the pandering, exploitative sexuality of the American Pie teen movies, as are the hackneyed stereotypes of high school jocks, nerds, misfits, and prom queens.

Ponsoldt’s teens are authentic, emotional, and rash; smart, witty, and kind. Woodley, refreshingly plain-faced throughout the film, and Teller, who bears real scars on his face from a car accident a few years ago, are as real as one could hope for teenage characters to be. You might feel like you knew them in high school. You might just recognize yourself in them.

The Spectacular Now

Opening Friday, August 23rd

Studio on the Square

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News News Blog

30 Pictures of Elvis Fans and Their Shrines

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Food & Drink Food Reviews

In With the New

Tucked away in a Berclair strip mall next door to Charlie’s Meat Market, Edo, reportedly the first Japanese restaurant in Memphis, had the quaint, outdated decor to prove it. A small and quiet spot, Edo has enjoyed generations of loyal followers more interested in the authentic Japanese cuisine than the less-than-glamorous surroundings.

The new stewards of this Japanese mainstay in Memphis are not interested in changing the reputation of Edo, but they are looking to spruce the space and the menu up a bit. Leng Khoun, 26, and Leon Nguyen, 27, both graduates of Central High School, decided to buy the restaurant in May, when the former owners opted to sell. Khoun had been hired to work in the kitchen six months earlier, and when the opportunity to take the helm arose, he asked his longtime friend Nguyen to partner in the project.

“Leon is actually the one who told me about Edo back when we were in high school. It became my favorite restaurant,” Khoun says. “I started working here part-time, and then the opportunity came along [to buy it]. I thought I’d be older when it happened, but opportunities like these don’t just come along all the time.”

Khoun and Nguyen have so far preserved the traditional Japanese menu items that fans have come to expect, but they’ve also started adding some more modern touches, like hibachi-style fried rice, panko-fried Japanese chicken nuggets, spring rolls, and sweet and spicy shrimp. They’ve also added 10 sushi rolls to the menu, appealing to a newer, less traditional taste in sushi. To wit: deep-fried fusion-style rolls like the Cheesy Roll with cream cheese, crab, salmon, basil, fried and topped with a special sauce.

They also touched up the interior, painting every inch of bare-wood trim in the space a sleek black and adding a few new decorative touches. They’ve scaled back operations to just dinner service, but, for the most part, diners will find the same Edo they’ve known and loved for decades.

“I want this restaurant to live up to its name,” Khoun says. “For people to know it’s still Edo and with the traditional foods still there.”

Edo is open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday starting at 5 p.m.

Edo Japanese Restaurant, 4792 Summer (767-7096)

Since Sekisui’s Humphreys Boulevard location closed in January, the owners have been eager to find a new spot to land in East Memphis. Now, in the former location of Theo’s Bistro at Poplar and Kirby, the new Sekisui East is slated to open this September.

With six locations throughout the Mid-South, Jimmy Ishii’s hibachi-and-sushi empire hasn’t exactly suffered during this lengthy real estate search, but finding a way to get back into the valuable East Memphis market was top priority.

“We loved it [at Humphreys], and we wanted to stay, but Baptist Hospital owns the building and is converting all of that area into doctors’ offices. So we had to find a new home,” David Lindsey of Sekisui says. “It was a big objective of ours to relocate as closely as possible to that area. That restaurant had been open for 23 years and had a very loyal following.”

The new space is already primed for a restaurant, so not much was left to transform the building into a Sekisui. They’re adding a sushi bar, which is the bulk of the construction project, but since Sekisui is partnering with some of the former owners of Theo’s Bistro, the process is moving along quickly.

Longtime fans of Sekisui’s signature dishes will appreciate the familiar menu and find a friendly face in Chef Hiro Nakajima, formerly of the restaurant’s Humphreys location.

“Sushi fanatics like their chefs, and they go to certain sushi bars for a specific chef,” Lindsey says. “We felt it was important to keep Hiro, so his customers would be able to find him.”

Find Chef Nakajima and your Sekisui favorites at this new East Memphis location starting sometime around September 1st.

Sekisui East, 6696 Poplar, sekisuiusa.com

Categories
News The Fly-By

Green Grocer

On a particularly muggy Thursday morning, an unusual-looking bus sits at the dock of the Easy Way Distribution Center warehouse on South Mendenhall. Painted in a neon-green hue and decorated with larger-than-life drawings of fruits and vegetables, this retired MATA bus has got a brand-new bag.

Known as the Green Machine, the bus-turned-mobile market has spent the last two weeks venturing into food deserts and other underserved areas of Memphis to bring fresh produce to residents. Each weekday, the bus makes a different round of stops — from North Memphis to South Memphis, Center City to Orange Mound. This morning, the bus is waiting to be stocked. Where seats once lined the aisles, now large wooden bins rise up from the floor, and soon, these bins will be filled with watermelons, corn, tomatoes, squash, grapes, and bananas — all supplied by Easy Way.

What may seem like a humble operation is actually the product of a Herculean effort started in the spring of 2012. Partnering with St. Patrick’s Catholic Church, Kenneth Reardon, a professor and director of the graduate program of city and regional planning at the University of Memphis leased an old MATA bus. He then called on a visiting professor from Italy, Antonio Raciti, to draw up plans for repurposing the bus into the Green Machine. But before he could do so, Reardon had to track down the obsolete bus plans and specifications from the Volvo plant in Quebec, where the auto manufacturers were thrilled to hear about the bus’s second lease on life.

Once the designs were done, one of Reardon’s students, who’d served in the military and had experience from an auto body shop in Kandahar, stripped the bus down so it could be primed and painted. Local students from Hollis Price High School stepped in to hand-paint the bus, and the Memphis Grizzlies rewarded the kids with practice jerseys and T-shirts from the players.

“None of this could have happened without robust partnerships with students, churches, neighborhood associations, Easy Way, and our advisory board of 24 organizations,” Reardon says.

With the bus loaded up, the Green Machine embarks for its first stop of the day, the Venson Center high-rise at Danny Thomas Boulevard and Beale. Here, like most of the stops, seniors and residents living with disabilities make up the bulk of customers. Only two weeks in, the bus has captured the attention of a number of shoppers, but young people are few. Too, there are large chunks of time where no one enters the bus.

Although the Green Machine will focus on serving impoverished neighborhoods, there’s no income requirement for shoppers.

For now, for those who do frequent the Green Machine, the experience seems to be about more than buying food.

“There is a big social and community aspect to this,” Reardon says. “On our very first day out, there was a torrential downpour, but at our first stop there was a 104-year-old woman there waiting. Food establishes and maintains a sense of community.”

Karlita Weaver, the Green Machine cashier and operator agrees. “They’re really appreciative,” she says. “I’m already starting to recognize some of the same faces coming in here.”

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Muddy’s To Open Midtown Location

A sneak peek of the new Midtown Muddys from the Muddy's Instagram page

  • A sneak peek of the new Midtown Muddy’s from Muddy’s Instagram page

Midtowners, get your grubby, little, cake-grabbing paws ready: Muddy’s Bake Shop is opening a location near Cooper-Young.

Owner Kat Gordon says they closed on the quaint 585 S. Cooper house a few days ago. Now, she’s dreaming up all kinds of menu items for the new bakery. Sure, they will still have many of the Muddy’s classics — “I’m not going to tell the people of Midtown they can’t have their Prozac,” she says — but Gordon wants the Sanderlin and Cooper locations to maintain their own identities. The shops will be siblings, not twins.

This isn’t the first time Muddy’s has been on Cooper. For two and half years, Gordon had a somewhat secret helper kitchen at 800 S. Cooper that filled custom orders and supplied the Sanderlin location. In 2012, the 800 S. Cooper bakery was moved to 2497 Broad Ave., where it operates today. But Gordon says Cooper-Young, the neighborhood she calls home, was always on her radar.

“Apparently we can’t get away from Cooper,” she says. “It called us back.”

With 1,800 square feet at the S. Cooper location, Gordon will have plenty of room to play around with new concepts. She says she’s interested in bolstering her relationship with locally owned J. Brooks Coffee, for instance, and she also plans to convert the building’s large yard into a patio.

As for the name, Gordon is thinking Muddy’s Midtown, “because I imagine that’s what people will call it anyway,” she says. Construction on the charming house will probably continue through the end of the year, and Gordon is aiming for an early 2014 opening.

“The sentimental part of me really wants to open in February because that’s when the [first] shop opened,” she says. “It would have a lovely symmetry to it.”

Muddy’s Bake Shop, 5101 Sanderlin, 683-8844, muddysbakeshop.com

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

New Ice Cream Shop on Summer Opens Next to Taco Truck

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Is this heaven?

No, it’s Summer Avenue.

It’s Summer Avenue at Mendenhall, where, as of last Friday, you can grab a paleta and a scoop (or three) of ice cream after tucking away some of the finest tacos in the city at the Tacos Los Jarochos food truck. Yes, this is real life. Yes, we now have a taco-truck-ice-cream-shop partnership going on. The synergy is palpable.

Tacos Los Jarochos (left) and the Los Jarochos ice cream shop (right)

  • Tacos Los Jarochos (left) and the Los Jarochos ice cream shop (right)

Two years ago, Tacos Los Jarochos emerged in a humble parking lot near the corner of Summer and Perkins. They began as this little taco trailer, which now serves as a back-up trailer and will trek Los Jarochos tacos to Cordova starting sometime next month:

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From there, Tacos Los Jarochos relocated to yet another humble parking lot — this time further down Summer, in front of a defunct cash advance store — and graduated to a bona fide food truck with a colorful wrap displaying its name. To their repertoire of authentic tacos and quesadillas, Tacos Los Jarochos has added burritos and Mexican hamburgers made with meat ground in house and topped with cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, and pineapple. And, of course, their usual bevy of salsas, sauces, and accoutrements is available for all the mixing and flavor pairing your heart desires.

Choriqueso at Tacos Los Jarochos

  • Choriqueso at Tacos Los Jarochos
Pastor and chorizo tacos at Tacos Los Jarochos

  • Pastor and chorizo tacos at Tacos Los Jarochos

The ice cream shop, Los Jarochos Paleteria y Neveria, is run by Carlos Pavon, whose parents own the Tacos Los Jarochos truck. The obvious next step for the family business, the ice cream shop offers a menu similar to, but scaled down from the popular La Michoacana paleta shop down the street:

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Two scoops of creamy caramel pecan hit the spot, and the $2.50 serving was generous. As for the paletas, more conventional flavors abound, but adventurous palates will be lured in by the mango-chile-cucumber flavor combination, a spicy-cool dichotomy you won’t find in your average American ice cream shop.

Los Jarochos Paleteria y Neveria is open seven days a week, from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Tacos Los Jarochos and Los Jarochos Paleteria y Neveria, 4894 Summer Ave., 314-5735

Categories
News The Fly-By

Voices Raised

For victims of domestic violence, a voice can be a very powerful thing.

Hence the name of the new domestic violence survivor advocacy group, VOICES. Made up of about 20 domestic violence survivors, VOICES aims to stamp out silence about domestic violence and give victims the strength and resources to break free from their abusers.

“My story of violence and abuse began in 1978. It didn’t end until 2005,” VOICES member Mary Ann Carmack told a room of fellow members and reporters at a press conference last Thursday. “I was 18 years old, and after a brief and intense courtship, I married my husband. Within a week, he found a photograph and went into a rage because there were pictures of boys from my high school. He referred to them as my former lovers. He proceeded to hit me, push me down the stairs, and kick me until I got up and ran out the front door.”

Carmack, along with VOICES members Miea Williams and Joyce Parkinson, shared their harrowing experiences as victims of domestic violence.

Williams was married to a pastor and recovering addict who beat her so badly doctors told her she was lucky to be alive. Parkinson found herself in a cycle of physical and sexual abuse that carried on from her first husband to her second. All three women describe the transition from victim to survivor as one of finding their voice.

“When I finally wrenched myself free of this situation, it was the hardest thing I’d ever done,” Carmack said. “Now I can use my voice to be a voice for those who still live in fear of violence.”

VOICES is housed in the Family Safety Center at 1750 Madison and connects victims with a large safety net, which includes resources such as counseling and legal support at the Shelby County Rape Crisis Center, the YWCA of Greater Memphis, the Shelby County Crime Victims Center, and the Exchange Club Family Center.

Vernetta Eddleman, manager of the Shelby County Crime Victims Center, estimates that the Memphis Police Department receives around 25,000 calls related to domestic violence each year.

“Some of these are repeat calls, but many are not,” Eddleman said. “And for every one victim who calls, there are two or three other victims who don’t.”

The phone call or police report is only the beginning, Eddleman said. Getting out of the relationship is a process, one that many victims cannot do on their own.

“You are more likely to be a victim of homicide after you leave,” she said. “That’s why you have to have a plan.”

This is where organizations like VOICES can point victims in the direction of the information and support they need to leave abusive situations safely. But simply acknowledging that domestic violence exists and happens to people of all races, genders, and classes may be the first and most important step to bringing domestic abuse to light.

“You live in silence. You live in fear and isolation,” Carmack said. “But the perpetrator of violence and abuse cannot succeed without your silence. You think and hope that your silence guarantees your life. It doesn’t.”