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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Caffeine Fix

Jeremy Harris, owner of Memphis’ newest local roastery, Reverb Coffee Company, wasn’t always a fan of the dark, heady brew.

“I didn’t even drink coffee until after college,” says Harris, who opened shop in April. He’s a Memphis native who returned to his home in 2012 from missionary work abroad with a newfound passion for coffee and the knowledge to back it up. Harris was inspired to launch his own roastery after helping to start a coffee shop for a nonprofit in Malaysia.

“I read blogs and watched videos and studied everything coffee,” he says. “That’s where I got the basic knowledge, and I decided to bring it back here to Memphis.”

Harris renovated a room in the small backhouse behind his grandparents’ home near Bartlett. There, he set up his simple roastery — the roaster itself was the most expensive investment — and started experimenting in small batches. Six different beans from Costa Rica, Colombia, Guatemala, Tanzania, Burundi, and Sumatra are kept pure; Harris says he’s committed to single-origin roasting, in which beans are not blended to create certain flavor profiles.

“I take one bean from one country and leave it all by itself and let that bean stand for itself and showcase its flavor,” he says. “It’s another way to be transparent with customers and let them know exactly what they’re getting.”

As for his preferred brewing technique, Harris says he opts for the pour-over method.

“It’s really unadulterated and straightforward,” he says. “You can get all the essence of what the coffee is supposed to be, because you have more control over temperature and how long you brew.”

Reverb Coffee Company beans, whole bean and ground, are available for $10 per 12-ounce bag at Trolley Stop Market and Maggie’s Pharm. Harris is working to create more wholesale connections and partner with local coffee shops and restaurants. Eventually, he’d like to open some coffee shops of his own. For now, he’s content to work in his grandparents’ backyard, where his grandfather stops in for a cup of coffee and a chat whenever he likes.

Reverb Coffee Company, www.myreverbcoffee.com

When he came face to face with the possibility of retirement, Ahmad Sharif did what anyone would do. He consulted the immortal wisdom of the TV show Cosby.

“In the show, Bill Cosby retired and opened a coffee shop,” Sharif says. “In that coffee shop, he could sit around with his friends all day and swap lies and drink coffee and enjoy their time. As my time came around, that episode came back to me. I’ve been drinking coffee all my life. Ever since I was 14, my dad would get me up every morning with a cup of coffee, and that was our time to sit around and talk.”   

Sharif’s coffee shop, The Grindz Coffee & Tea, is geared toward older patrons looking for a place to relax, without the bustle of chain coffee shops like Starbucks. He’s situating his prices below Starbucks prices as well but tapping into Pacific Northwest coffee expertise by sourcing his beans from Longbottom Coffee in Oregon. In addition to the coffee drinks, the Grindz sells deli sandwiches as well as pastries from the nearby Pat-A-Cake’s Bake Shop.

He says so far he’s had a lot of return customers, primarily people who live on or around Dexter Road, the part of Cordova where the Grindz is located. And this local vibe is what Sharif was hoping for. He also lives in the neighborhood, and his coffee shop is a way for him to bring the surrounding community together.

“It’s a small, family-friendly neighborhood operation,” Sharif says, adding that both his wife and son work at the shop. “I’m not trying to compete with Starbucks, not by a long shot. I just want to provide a neighborhood meeting spot.”

The Grindz is open Monday through Saturday from 6:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.

The Grindz Coffee & Tea, 8195 Dexter in Cordova (203-7840)

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Fired Up

When Ciao Baby! opened in April, Collierville got its first taste of Neapolitan wood-fired pizzas.

Set up much the same way a sandwich shop is arranged, Ciao Baby! lets patrons build their own pizzas, which are then fired up and ready to go in a little over a minute. Gone are the days of waiting a half-hour or more for your classic pizzeria pie to be ready. Gone (gone!) are the days of getting full on soda while you wait or slyly topping complimentary crackers with powdered Parmesan cheese to sate your hunger.

In fact, by the time you sit down, your pizza will most likely be right there with you. Walk down a long counter that runs alongside one wall of the dining room, following as a Ciao Baby! employee prepares a pizza to your liking. Choose from three classic pizzas — Margherita, Bianca, and Marinara — and top this pizza base with cheeses, meats, and veggies. For those who aren’t feeling so creative, Ciao Baby! has plenty of suggestions. More traditional pizzas with San Marzano tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and meats abound, but patrons will also find more adventurous options like the Bacon Ranch with bacon, chicken, ranch dressing, and cheddar cheese.

“Wood-fired pizza has been in our family for generations,” says Adrian Arcuri, whose delightfully familiar Italian-American accent is more than a little reminiscent of The Sopranos. He moved here from Connecticut in 2011 to start a pizzeria with his wife Ashley. “This is the real deal,” he says. “No frozen dough, no frozen cheese, no frozen sauce, no conveyor-belt oven. My oven is an authentic Neapolitan wood-fired oven.”

That oven turns out what Arcuri calls “Vera Pizza Napoletana,” which is an authentic (and highly protected) method of making pizza according to the traditions of Naples, Italy. The dough is made simply with water, flour, yeast, and sea salt. The crust is thin but not cracker-like; the inside is soft and pliant; and the crust is hearty.

For dessert, Ciao Baby! does authentic cannolis, dotted with chocolate chips and pistachios and wrapped in a pizzelle cookie instead of the traditional fried cannoli shell. For options beyond pizza, Arcuri has expanded the menu to include other wood-fired items like calzones, sandwiches, and hot wings. Soon, he says he’d like to include wood-fired bagels, a small, rustic type of bagel popular in Montreal.

“They’re starting to do them all over New York now,” Arcuri says. “It’s unbelievable. It’s great stuff.”

Ciao Baby! is open every day for lunch and dinner.

Ciao Baby!, 890 W. Poplar, Suite 1, Collierville (457-7457) ciaobabypizza.com

The Arcuris will soon be in good company, as another quick-fire, custom pizzeria is set to open on Ridgeway Road later this summer. Pyro’s, a new concept from Kirk Cotham and Chad Foreman, will take on the vibe of Swanky’s Taco Shop, with a focus on gourmet, custom pizzas, craft beer on tap, and an atmosphere for hanging out.

Cotham and Foreman were also looking for a concept that could be duplicated in other locations, such as the spot they plan to open at 2035 Union near Overton Square later this year. If successful at these first two locations, Pyro’s will expand to three or four locations in Memphis and then look beyond the Mid-South, Cotham says.

The thin-crust pizza will cook very quickly in the gas-fired oven and come out with a crispy bottom but stay moist throughout. Like Ciao Baby!, Pyro’s will offer suggested topping combinations, including some unusual ones like the Shepherd’s Pie with meat, potatoes, and a white sauce. But if you are particular about your pizzas, you can also build your own.

“The good thing about this place is, I can go with my wife, and I can get pepperoni and she can get chicken pesto,” Cotham says. “And we both get exactly what we wanted, coming off the oven at the same time and served hot.”

Pyro’s will be open every day from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. and even have egg-based breakfast pizzas. Cotham isn’t sure that the hours will be the same for each location he opens, but with the Park Place location, Pyro’s enthusiasts will be able to get pizza for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Pyro’s, 1199 Ridgeway, info@pyrospizza.com, pyrospizza.com

Categories
Cover Feature News

Out of the Picture

On a muggy Wednesday morning, Parkway Village seems suspended in amber. Rows of 1970s homes line the streets of this Southeast Memphis neighborhood — modest ranch-style houses with slightly sloping roofs all in the same brown hue.

In the 1970s, “Quarry” might have lived here. In 2013, Quarry might have been filmed here.

But the Vietnam vet-turned-sniper and the title character of Quarry, one of HBO/Cinemax’s new series hopefuls, is nowhere in sight. Absent, too, are the show’s cameras, director, location manager, producer, and extras. Instead, 19 miles south, just across the Tennessee border, Horn Lake, Mississippi, hums with preparations for filming the series pilot.

It wasn’t supposed to be this way. The riverside city of Memphis, with its large swaths of gritty, not-yet-gentrified neighborhoods and time-capsule strip malls, was the first location choice for Quarry producers. But a weak Tennessee state film-incentive fund, most of which stays in Nashville, forced Memphis to go head-to-head with the competitive incentives of the state of Mississippi. Memphis lost.

Back in Parkway Village, a car sputters, backfires, and heads south.

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Quarry, based on the novels of Max Allan Collins (who also wrote Road to Perdition), follows a veteran whose rocky return from Vietnam in 1973 drives him into a life of contract killing. The premise is a dark and seedy one, and it seemed a perfect fit for Memphis, a city with weathered architecture in abundance and a natural grit that money can’t buy and other places can’t fake. If all went according to plan, the pilot would be greenlighted for a series that would cash in on Collins’ fan base and become for Cinemax what The Sopranos was for HBO.

Perhaps, thought Memphis and Shelby County film commissioner Linn Sitler, Quarry could be for Memphis what Nashville, the ABC series about the country music industry, has been for Nashville. “A series like this is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity,” Sitler says. “It’s the kind of series you really want to knock yourself out to get.”

Once HBO/Cinemax set its sights on Memphis for its filming and production base, it looked first to the Tennessee Department of Economic and Community Development (ECD), the agency wholly responsible for the disbursement of state film-incentive funds.

Since the early 2000s, the film industry has increasingly relied on film incentives such as tax breaks and cash rebates from state governments, which have been eager to lure productions. In the 1980s and 1990s, producers were swayed by deal-sweeteners that now seem quaint: city services, free office space, and police protection. This was a world in which Memphis thrived. Now, cash is king, and film production outside of Hollywood is increasingly dominated by states with competitive film-incentive programs, such as Louisiana, New Mexico, and Georgia. Tennessee has invested comparatively little in its film-incentive program since the program’s inception in 2006. And since the state requires that rebates only apply toward in-state purchases and hires, it has fallen off the radar for many production companies.

With Memphis as its creative first choice, HBO/Cinemax tried its luck with Tennessee’s film-incentive program anyway. According to the ECD, HBO/Cinemax initially requested the state commit incentives for Quarry‘s pilot and the six-season series they hoped would follow. For the pilot and potential first year of production, HBO/Cinemax sought $13.5 million in incentives and parity with Mississippi’s incentive program. Though Tennessee does not offer incentives for out-of-state cast, crew, and purchases the way Mississippi does, perhaps the ECD would be able to broker a competitive deal. Instead, the ECD turned HBO/Cinemax down.

“We were really disappointed,” Sitler says. “We hoped [the state] would negotiate with HBO/Cinemax.”

With only $2 million guaranteed recurrent annual funds in Tennessee’s film-incentive fund, asking for $13.5 million to base Quarry in Memphis might have seemed like an exercise in futility. However, in January, the legislature voted to add around $11.25 million to the state film-incentive fund, bringing the total of the fund to a little more than $13 million.

In an email exchange with state officials, Sitler suggested that the ECD make Quarry the same offer for its first season that had been made for Nashville‘s first season — around $9 million. With approximately $13 million available in the incentive fund, the hope was that HBO/Cinemax might be convinced to base Quarry‘s production in Memphis.

As it turns out, however, the $11.25 million in the film-incentive coffers was already earmarked for another production. Governor Bill Haslam, whose close personal adviser, Tom Ingram, is a lobbyist for Gaylord Entertainment, the production company behind the Nashville series, had set aside those funds for season two of Nashville. When asked if the $11.25 million special appropriation from the legislature was ever open to competitive applications from other film projects in the state, Clint Brewer of the ECD said no.

“The second season was picked up, and the money was put in the budget. The department’s view on the series Nashville is that it was a unique branding opportunity for the state,” Clint Brewer says. “The department’s view is that it’s a good return on investment and that it’s marketing and branding for the state that you really couldn’t buy. It’s an hour-long commercial for the state.”

Since headquartering in Memphis was no longer an option for HBO/Cinemax, the company opted to base the production of Quarry in north Mississippi. For certain key shots, cast and crew would spend about three to four days filming in Memphis. The ECD agreed to spend $85,250 to incentivize those days of shooting.

Mark Norris, a Tennessee senator from Collierville who has spent the last seven years lobbying to create and maintain the state’s film-incentive fund, says he respects the administration’s “healthy skepticism” about incentivizing out-of-state workers. Still, the state’s unwillingness to negotiate with HBO/Cinemax is a sore point.

“We lost out to Mississippi,” he says, “because I don’t think we ever really competed for [Quarry].”

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Getting turned down for features and network television series is not a new phenomenon in this corner of the state. Since the incentive program began in 2006, Memphis has watched as films and series set in Memphis, such as The Blind Side and Memphis Beat, filmed in Georgia or Louisiana, invoking the name and history of Memphis without actually setting up a camera here.

“We’re on our third show now,” says Craig Brewer, longtime advocate for Memphis’ film industry and the filmmaker behind Hustle & Flow, Black Snake Moan, and, most recently, Footloose. “We’re on our third show that is going to be filmed somewhere else that’s supposed to take place in Memphis, Tennessee. One of which was called Memphis Beat.”

Another — Hellcats — was a 2010 CW comedy-drama about cheerleaders set in Memphis and filmed in Vancouver. In one particularly painful scene, two characters sit on the dock of what is supposed to be the Mississippi River — with a mountain range looming in the background.

Even more startling is how Tennessee’s film incentives have been distributed. Since 2006, about $23 million has been doled out or committed to productions across the state. Projects in East Tennessee have received roughly $2,500,000. Projects in West Tennessee have received $1,080,000. Middle Tennessee projects have received around $19,400,000.

“It’s really no different than companies that apply for incentives to create jobs,” says Clint Brewer of the ECD, whose grants and loans committee determines which projects receive incentives. “The private sector dictates where they want to locate. We don’t favor one town or city or region over another.”

Craig Brewer, an advisory board member for the Tennessee Film, Entertainment, and Music Commission, who is quick to confirm his support for the Nashville series, nevertheless questions the disparity between Middle Tennessee’s incentive funding versus that of the rest of the state.

“Nashville’s a big city. It’s a big show-biz town. If nobody was coming [to Memphis] to ask to do their shows here in town, I wouldn’t be complaining,” Craig Brewer says. “But it seems like every one of our shows doesn’t get incentivized and every one of theirs does. Is it because of luck? I don’t know. But somehow, someone is deciding to work with producers to get [Nashville’s] shows going.”

If this sounds like sour grapes, perhaps Brewer’s struggle to get Footloose filmed in Memphis could explain the hard feelings. When Paramount greenlighted Brewer’s pitch to remake the 1984 classic, Brewer presented three stipulations for taking on the project. The first two involved selecting certain members of his team, and the third requirement was that it be filmed in Memphis.

“The studio said, ‘If you can keep the budget at $25 million, we’ll meet all those parameters,'” Brewer says. So he set about working with then state film commissioner Perry Gibson to create a package of film incentives that would keep Paramount happy and bring the production of Footloose to Memphis.

“Gibson had the discretion to go into the fund to procure a production coming here,” Brewer says. “When the budget came in on Footloose, it was over $25 million, and the studio was not interested in cutting the script. [The studio] said, ‘Wait a minute. [We’re] looking at a budget that puts this in Atlanta, Georgia, for under $25 million.'”

Brewer looked to Gibson to negotiate with Paramount. Under former governor Phil Bredesen’s administration, the film-incentive fund had been stocked with $20 million for luring in just such large studio productions. Gibson had agreed to a certain amount of incentives, but, according to Brewer, was about $1.8 million short of what Georgia was offering.  

The Tennessee Film, Entertainment, and Music Commission would not negotiate any further. Footloose went to Atlanta, and the film commission ended the year with a hefty surplus, which later, according to sources close to the state commission, went to fund the pilot and first season of Nashville.

“The money was there to make Footloose. But someone decided, ‘No, we’re not going to cave. Those parameters can’t be met. We’ve been flexible here and there, but we can’t be flexible anymore,'” Brewer says. “Then I found out the numbers on the Hannah Montana movie.”

Hannah Montana: The Movie, partially filmed in Nashville in 2008 and starring Miley Cyrus, was a highly publicized feather in the cap of the Tennessee Film, Entertainment, and Music Commission, which lobbied hard for the $28 million Walt Disney Pictures production to be filmed in-state. In fact, the state seemed to bend over backward to keep the production from going to Louisiana, according to a June 2008 article in The Tennessean.

For Hannah Montana, Gibson agreed to incentivize non-Tennessee crew, a sensitive practice for which Gibson was later blasted in a 2013 “Performance Audit” by the Tennessee Treasury. Incentivizing out-of-state cast and crew and playing fast and loose with in-state headquarters requirements is, according to the ECD, verboten in their incentive rules. At the time, however, such allowances were used as bargaining chips, at the discretion of the film commissioner. Gibson took full advantage, incentivizing out-of-state hires as well as the wages for the Cyrus family, despite their questionable status as Tennessee residents.

In addition to mismanagement and poor administrative oversight of the film-incentive program, the 2013 audit of the Tennessee Film, Entertainment, and Music Commission found that Gibson had not disclosed that her husband, entertainment lawyer Kenneth Kraus, was affiliated with a law firm involved with at least three productions that received incentive payments. “This represents a serious concern about the proper disclosure of conflicts of interest by film commission staff,” the audit read. Gibson was ousted as film commissioner in 2011 and replaced with Bob Raines. At the same time, decision-making power was shifted away from the film commissioner to the ECD.

“Gibson was criticized for going above and beyond to get [Hannah Montana], which I don’t fault her for,” Craig Brewer says. “The problem for me is that Memphis mayor A C Wharton called up [about Footloose] and said, ‘We need this movie. We haven’t had a movie in so long. It’s our filmmaker; he wrote it specifically to be here. But there was really no one being an advocate for us in the circles that could move that.”

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Since it was established in 2006, Tennessee’s film-incentive fund has been steadily diminishing, whittled down from its initial $20 million funding level to $2 million in annual guaranteed funding. By comparison, Mississippi offers up to $20 million each year in film incentives. Georgia and Louisiana have no annual cap on the amount of film incentives they can distribute. All three states are considered highly competitive by the film industry.

“To give you some perspective, I made Hustle & Flow. It came out in 2005, and Atlanta was nowhere on the map. No one was thinking about Atlanta,” Brewer says, remembering a time before Georgia’s incentive program became one of the top programs in the country. “But a lot of people who worked on Footloose with me never went back to Los Angeles. My crew went from Footloose to Fast Five and then immediately to another movie. Some of them are still [in Atlanta]. Somebody made the right decision, and that city is making money because the industry is there.”

And while Louisiana, Georgia, and Mississippi benefit from incentivizing out-of-state workers whose wages can be taxed by the state, Tennessee has no state income tax. But with a 5 percent sales tax on food and a 7 percent tax on everything else, the state stands to gain revenue nonetheless.

Other states with no income tax have found ways to stay competitive. In 2010, Florida put aside $296 million worth of film-incentive tax credits through June 30, 2016, much of which was used to lure television shows such as The Glades and Burn Notice. Extra incentives were made available for productions that shoot in the off-season or take place in an “underutilized region.”

“It’s our view that the way we’ve got the [incentive] program set now is acceptable,” Clint Brewer says. “I do not believe you will see Tennessee move toward the kind of large film funds that Georgia and Louisiana and states like that have. We think there’s a better return on investment trying to invest in the local industry.”

Craig Brewer can point to myriad ways filming in Tennessee boosts the local economy and film industry, whether or not out-of-state workers receive incentives.

“If [the state] had incentivized [The Blind Side], we would have had teamsters, builders, electricians, local crew, actors, actresses. Plus the movie took place in Memphis, Tennessee,” he says. “It was a Memphis story. If the movie took place here, Memphians would have had work.”

“They would have been spending money on accommodations, groceries for catering, office equipment and furniture, construction supplies, rental cars, gasoline, airline tickets from local travel agencies, production equipment, and wardrobe supplies,” Sitler adds.

Without a change to the state’s incentive program, north Mississippi will likely continue to get the projects Memphis cannot afford. The halcyon days of Memphis-based films such as The Firm and The People vs Larry Flynt will fade further from memory. And while the Quarry pilot continues production just across the state line and production of the second season of Nashville, fueled by around $12.5 million in new state incentives, heads into full swing in Middle Tennessee, Memphis is left looking for something bigger than a bit part.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

The New York Times Reviews Hog and Hominy

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We’ve always said: If you don’t gorge yourself at Hog and Hominy, you aren’t doing it right.

New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells suggests the same in his recent review of this east Memphis hotspot. He experiences the joy of eating high on the hog in Memphis, with nary a dry-rubbed BBQ rib in sight.

Wells piles on (and praises!) a selection of Hog and Hominy’s eclectic, Southern-meets-Italian items: spicy fried sweetbreads, a beef and cheddar hotdog, and a piece of peanut butter pie. He even suggests that this younger sibling of Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman’s first restaurant, has surpassed its older brother.

I was helping myself to a slice — okay, several slices — of the Red Eye pizza the night the Times photographer came in to document this year-old golden child of Memphis’ dining scene. I sidled up to Ticer, pointed to the cameraman set up in a corner of the restaurant, surrounded by so many perfectly plated wedges of pie, and asked who he was shooting for.

“The New York Times,” Ticer said softly. “A critic was in last week.”

Both Ticer and Hudman seemed too nervous to admit the review might be a good one. That night, the entire restaurant was tense with the knowledge that something important was happening, or perhaps wishing they’d worn a better outfit for the mystery cameraman’s photo session.

Now, with this glowing review behind them, the pair can breathe a little easier. But only for a moment. They’ve got a surge of business ahead of them, no doubt. Let’s just hope there will still be room for us locals.

Hog and Hominy, 707 W. Brookhaven Circle, 207-7396, hogandhominy.com

Categories
News News Blog

“Buttercup,” the Duck With a Prosthetic Foot to March at Peabody

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Move over, Chuck Berry. There’s a new duck-walking rock star in town.

Buttercup, the Pekin duck who made national headlines for his prosthetic foot, will join the Peabody Hotel ducks for a waddle down the hotel’s red carpet on Wednesday. There, in front of some of the most famous fowl in the world, Buttercup will be named “Honorary Duck.”

Born with an inverted foot, a painful deformity that prevented him from walking, Buttercup was adopted by a Memphis-based rescue group, Feathered Angels Waterfowl Sanctuary. With the help of the local 3D printers at NovaCopy, Feathered Angels was able to customize and print (!) a prosthetic foot for Buttercup.

Watch Buttercup’s first steps on his new foot, and then join the Peabody Duckmaster in honoring Buttercup this Wednesday at 10:30 a.m. at the Peabody Hotel.

The Peabody Hotel, 149 Union Ave., 529-4000, peabodymemphis.com

Categories
News The Fly-By

Back in Action

Hannah Sayle

Late last month, it seemed as though the Memphis head-shop industry was up in smoke after a Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA) raid led to public nuisance closures and arrests of shop owners, but most of the affected stores have now reopened their doors.

The DEA swept through Shelby County on June 26th as part of a nationwide crackdown on illegal synthetic drugs, resulting in more than 40 arrests and the closure of 14 local businesses.

The bust took place in more than 35 states and was labeled “Project Synergy,” the culmination of a two-year investigation into the proliferation and sale of synthetic drugs. The investigation focused primarily on synthetic cannabinoids (a synthetic marijuana often sold as “spice” or “K2”) and synthetic cathinones (a chemical analogue for methamphetamines, better known as “bath salts.”) Both of these drugs can cause hallucinations and paranoia, and in the case of bath salts, heart attacks and strokes.

Individuals, business owners, and employees suspected of being involved in what investigators allege is a multi-million-dollar international synthetic drug network were indicted on federal charges ranging from conspiracy to possess and distribute to money laundering.

But while those federal cases will likely play out over the next few years, many of the temporary injunctions that closed down 14 local businesses have been processed and settled, and most of the shops in question are back in business.

The 14 local stores shut down as public nuisances on June 26th included Humidor Tobacco and Beer on Houston Levee; Tobacco Etc. and Friendly Quick Stop on Stage; Tobacco World on Quince; Buddy’s Smoke Shop on Whitten Road; Whatever and the Highland Smoke Shop on Highland; Tobacco for Less and Tobacco Hutt on Summer; A&P Tobacco Shop on Austin Peay; Wizard’s on Madison; Tobacco Superstore on Winchester; and Tobacco Zone and Tobacco Box on Germantown Parkway.

As of July 3rd, Whatever, Highland Smoke Shop, A&P Tobacco, Tobacco World, Humidor Tobacco and Beer, Friendly Quick Stop, Tobacco Superstore, Tobacco Zone, Tobacco for Less, and Tobacco Hutt have been permitted to resume operations, on the condition that they cease selling synthetic drugs and pay a $2,650 fine. As of July 9th, Wizard’s and Tobacco Box were free to open their doors. According to Paul Hagerman, assistant district attorney, the owners of Buddy’s and Tobacco Etc. have both suggested they will close their businesses for good.

As to why some stores were authorized to resume business on July 3rd and others were forced to wait another week, Hagerman said three stores — Buddy’s, Wizard’s, and Tobacco Box — were punished more harshly because their employees acknowledged to undercover officers that the substances they were selling were illegal. Hagerman says the offending employees at those three stores have all been terminated.

“The important part of this whole thing was to get the message out to stores that they are responsible for what they sell,” Hagerman said. “And of course, the federal charges were a big message.”

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Lunch Break

Twenty years ago, Tom Cruise sat in the window of the Front Street Deli as Mitch McDeere, plotting his escape from Memphis in the hit film The Firm. Today, Lance Silkes stands behind the counter as the new owner of the deli, recounting his decision to save this Memphis institution from slipping away.

“I knew about the history of the deli and recognized that in a lot of ways this was one of the first restaurants to come back to downtown after the exodus,” Silkes said. “After reading a little more about the situation, I realized it was really threatened with extinction.”

This “situation” was the passing earlier this year of Lee Busby, Front Street Deli’s owner and operator for 37 years and a fixture of the downtown lunch scene. Coupled with the need for repairs and updates to the restaurant space, Busby’s passing seemed to signal the end of the deli altogether. But Silkes, who runs Tastin’ Round Town culinary tours, was determined to keep this quirky, 350-square-foot eatery in business. “It’s an odd little store,” Silkes said. “It really took someone with experience working in a nontraditional kitchen space. I refer to this thing as a food truck without wheels.”

From his tiny kitchen, Silkes is cranking out many of the same menu items Busby did. “The idea is, if someone hadn’t been here in 10 years, they’d walk in and recognize the place and they’d recognize the menu,” he said. But Silkes has also added some new touches from his experience running a New York-style deli in Lafayette, Indiana, such as Italian sausage with peppers and onions, as well as some more adventurous items, like the Maui Burger with a sausage and beef patty, panko bread crumbs, Vidalia onion, lettuce, and pickled ginger, served on a King’s Hawaiian bun.

Front Street Deli, which is now officially open once more, will maintain the same hours, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday, which fits in well with Silkes’ food tour business. The prices will also stay fairly close to what they were before, with sandwiches starting at $5.50 and a complete lunch ringing in around $7.

Front Street Deli, 77 S. Front (522-8943)

The Office@Uptown is a shared office space in the heart of the recently revitalized Uptown community. But don’t let the business facade fool you: There is a palate party in the back, where The Office@Uptown Cafe is crafting some serious sandwiches for your midday meal.

Owner Valerie Peavy says the cafe was not in their original plans, but after looking around the neighborhood, she and her husband Jeff Harrison saw that the area could accommodate another food spot. “It was a natural fit,” she said. “We want to be a resource for the community.”

If simple, tasty sandwiches count as a resource, and we are of the opinion they do, the cafe is a veritable wellspring for Uptowners. Chefs Rodney Shelton and Yvos Warren have laid out a small selection of paninis, sandwiches, and salads based on “the things we like,” Peavy said.

“We figured, let’s don’t complicate things,” she added. “I’ve been places where they take a basic roast beef sandwich or a basic ham sandwich and fancy-shmancy it up to the point where you think, I just wanted a ham sandwich.”

To that end, a ham sandwich at the Office@Uptown Cafe is a ham sandwich.

The turkey panini on ciabatta is exactly what it purports to be — the right proportions of sliced turkey breast and smoked cheddar cheese layered with fresh spinach, tomato, and chipotle mayo.

The Smokey City Melt is a ramped-up grilled cheese with both smoked and plain cheddar, topped with tomato and served on a hearty sourdough bread.

All of the sandwiches are a good size for lunch and cost under $7. The dining area seats eight comfortably, but service is fast enough for to-go orders if dining in is not an option.

The kitchen is open Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. “We’re looking to expand eventually and be open Monday through Friday 7 to 7 and Saturday 8 to 4,” Peavy said.

“But we’re taking it slow for now. We’re working on our breakfast menu and our coffee drinks. We’re looking forward to where this ride takes us.”

The Office@Uptown Cafe, 594 N. Second (522-1905)

www.theofficeatuptown.com

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Young Upstarts

Ink, the newest addition to Cooper-Young’s restaurant community, is not technically an upstart, so much as a makeover of the former Cortona Contemporary Italian concept. Nor is the sudden change new to a corner restaurant space that has seen many concepts wither on the vine in the last 20 years. And that’s precisely why manager Jennifer Dickerson says they decided to mix things up.

“Because of the size of the space, to be profitable we had to have people in the seats all week long, even on slow nights like Tuesday and Wednesday,” she says. “Our idea was to split the place in two, so we’re not relying so much on dining to provide the revenue. We thought adding more of a bar atmosphere would help with that, because people are generally more apt to walk into a bar to hang out than they are to come into a restaurant to have a sit-down dinner.”

Diners will still be offered the option of a sit-down dinner, but the dining space is smaller and the menu features more items for sharing as well, which suits the bar and lounge area as much as the dinner table. Entrées, which range from $18 to $22, include some of the favorites from Cortona’s menu, like the Arancia Rosa shrimp and grits, and fans will still have Cortona’s brick-oven pizzas ($15-$18) to fall back on.

Among the new menu items are sharing plates like the sweet potato poutine with feta and shiitake gravy and the carnival chicken on a stick. They also serve a weekly Sunday Soul Brunch with soul-food favorites and the sweet sounds of soul classics on vinyl.

As for the bolstered bar area, Dickerson says they’ve got the largest champagne selection in town at the lowest prices, and their cocktails are also full of bubbly. The “867-5309,” for instance, is one of Dickerson’s favorites: champagne, grapefruit, St. Germain, and honeysuckle vodka.

“We want everything to be high-quality but down to earth,” Dickerson says. “New takes on old classics.”

Ink, 948 S. Cooper (729-0101)
inkmemphis.com

With Imagine Vegan Cafe settled into its new location eastward down Young, the restaurant space between Goner Records and Skunx Chef Pub was ripe for the taking, and Robin Brown was ready with a concept.

Greencork, which is set to open in August, is Brown’s reentry into the food scene after a hiatus from restaurant management and catering. Her focus is accessible, affordable wine offerings and a comfortable atmosphere for sampling those wines with small plates.

The most interesting aspect of this particular wine and small-plates concept is the addition of self-service. Like SoBou in New Orleans or the Wine Room outside of Orlando, Greencork will feature wine dispensers where patrons can select and pour their own 2-ounce, 4-ounce, or 6-ounce samples from 32 different wines.

“It seemed to me that there was something missing in Cooper-Young,” she says. “What it was is a place where people can come and kick back at the right price point. You’ve got the [Young Avenue] Deli, which is great, it’s an icon. And then you’ve got more upscale spots. But we wanted to fit something in the middle.”

The ambience will be relaxing and unintimidating, says Brown, who has arranged comfortable couches and chairs around a newly built fireplace and downsized the existing bar to give it a cozier feel. The 32 wines on tap will change regularly, and if all goes according to plan, the selection will expand. Greencork will also feature champagnes, full bottles and splits, as well as some craft beers and eventually some liquor drinks. Brown says she’s also interested in offering a non-alcoholic option like dry sodas — fizzy waters with little or no sugar, often mixed with fresh fruit.

As for the menu, Brown and her daughter Katy Sloan are working on small, sweet and savory items to pair with the array of wines. Think familiar foods with little twists, like the Reuben spring rolls or bacon, lettuce, and tomato cheesecake. And if you’re feeling romantic, grab a picnic basket for two ($24) complete with meats, cheeses, cheese truffles or spread, salmon mousse, pâté, crudités, deviled eggs, fruit, condiments, and bread and crackers.

“We want this to be personal,” Brown says, “a comfortable place where the wine is always at the right price, there’s always a friendly face, and the food is recognizable and tasty.”

Greencork, 2156 Young (207-5281), info@greencorkwine.com

Categories
News The Fly-By

Transfer Call

As Juvenile Court magistrate Dan Michael read his decision, 14-year-old Jonathan Ray, the teen accused of setting a fire that killed his mother in their Hickory Hill home on April 5th, sunk his face into his hands. Minutes later, as guards escorted Ray back to the detention area, he crumpled to the floor, sobbing.

“He’s a child, and he cried like a child,” said Ray’s defense attorney, Rob Gowen. “He knows he’s facing 51 years.”

According to Michael’s decision, Ray, who has a history of depression and suicidal ideations and is currently taking antidepressant and antipsychotic medication, is unfit for rehabilitation in the juvenile justice system. Despite the pleas of his stepfather, grandparents, aunts, and cousins, who pledged to support Ray even as they were mourning the death of his mother, Gwendolyn Wallace, Michael’s decision was final: Following this transfer hearing on June 26th, Ray’s case was immediately bound over to adult court, where he will be tried for first-degree murder.

“We can’t wait six years to see if [Ray] is fit for rehabilitation,” Michael said in his decision. “We need to know now.”

Gowen said that throughout the proceedings in Juvenile Court, there was pressure to dispose of Ray’s case as quickly as possible. From Ray’s arrest to his final transfer hearing, Gowen had less than three months to prepare, a mere fraction of the prep time afforded an adult trial. But transfers come with serious, lifelong implications: When teens are transferred in Tennessee, they forever lose the right to be tried as juveniles, and studies show the recidivism rates for transferred juveniles are higher than those who stay in the juvenile system.

The breakneck speed with which transfer decisions are made, an attempt to lower the number of youths in detention, means a rush to determine amenability to rehabilitation, and that worries Sandra Simkins. Simkins is the due process monitor appointed by the Department of Justice (DOJ) to oversee changes to the Juvenile Court of Memphis and Shelby County (JCMSC), following a two-year investigation in 2009, which revealed civil rights concerns, routine violations of due process protections, and transfer hearings set only two weeks after a child’s arrest.

“The rushed time frame [of transfers], added to the woefully low allocation of resources, challenges the integrity of the entire system,” said Simkins, in her June 6th progress report on JCMSC. “Fourteen days is not enough time for attorneys to obtain and review the necessary documents, evaluations, and investigation required to address factors such as the child’s suitability for additional treatment.”

In the end, it took only a total of 10 to 12 hours with Sidney Ornduff, the director of the division of clinical services at JCMSC, to seal Ray’s fate. The June 26th transfer hearing hinged entirely on the testimony of Ornduff, who used a personality test and interviews to determine that Ray was not amenable to treatment. “I think I have a pretty good feel for who this kid is,” she said. “His prognosis for change is very poor.”

Prosecutor Dan Byer and a police lieutenant exchanged fist bumps as they filed out of Ray’s transfer hearing. Byer believes transferring Ray will preserve valuable time and resources for youths more amenable to treatment. “A couple of years [of Ray] messing with people’s heads and then being released,” he said. “We took that option off the table.”

But Gowen thinks a lack of resources and a precedent of JCMSC avoiding cases deemed “too difficult” are more likely at play.
“They don’t have the resources to deal with him,” Gowen said. “That’s why they want him out of there. Either you make the decision to invest in this kid or wash your hands of it and send it to adult court. The question is: Why have a Juvenile Court system?”

Ray is being held in pretrial detention at 201 Poplar, away from the general population. He is on suicide watch, naked in solitary confinement — a suicide prevention tactic known as the “buck naked cell.” He has no access to a therapist or psychiatrist.

“He’ll stay there until he’s no longer suicidal,” Gowen said. “As long as he’s telling them he wants to kill himself. Eventually, he’ll learn not to say anything.”

Categories
Style Sessions We Recommend

Model Material? Casting Call on the Peabody Rooftop

Yoo hoo! Models! Tonight, from 6-7 p.m., we’ll be hosting the third installment of our open casting call for models at the Peabody rooftop party. Select individuals will be given the opportunity to participate in our annual fall fashion shoot, and have their beautiful mugs splashed across the pages of the Memphis Flyer. Is it the chance of a lifetime? We like to think so. Come join us at tonight’s rooftop party!

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The Peabody Hotel, 149 Union, www.peabodymemphis.com