Categories
Opinion Viewpoint

Festival International

It was exactly 6:07 p.m. on a Friday when we ordered our first Abita on our way to the Vermilion Stage to see a group from French Guiana (reggae to zouk). We had made the trip in just under seven hours and were ready for a break from Memphis music.

In its 15th year, the Festival International de Louisiane in Lafayette, Louisiana, packs in nearly 200,000 people for five days of world music, offering a wonderful alternative to our own Beale Street Music Fest, or for that matter that other festival in New Orleans you’ve heard so much about. Actually, the Southern Arts Foundation claims Festival International “surpasses the New Orleans Jazz Festival in scope and variety of performance.” A word of caution, however: Be ready for a major difference — no drunks, no fights!

The Mouton sisters attribute the atmosphere to their culture. Cajun grannies from Lafayette, they have never missed a festival. We met them as we maneuvered through a sea of chairs for a front-row position for the Super Rail Band de Bamako from Mali, a group we would eagerly see again the next day. “We’re such a friendly culture that nobody fights,” they bragged.

We didn’t argue the point, but in our combined years touring festivals, never have we witnessed a more amiable gathering. The police? They actually wave and ask if they can help. Lines for the porta-potty? Forget it. Beer lines? Be ready with your tickets before you get there. You prefer Tequila shots? No problem. The Continental flight attendants who volunteered to man (and woman) that booth (all drinks were donated by the distributors) were more than happy to help. One lime or two?

With a paid staff of only four, the festival relies on over 1,000 volunteers to keep the gathering free to the public. And this on a budget of $400,000. (The government of Quebec not only has a tourist booth, it’s actually a contributing sponsor.)

Spread over a 12-square-block area in downtown Lafayette, the festival features five stages with nearly 500 musicians from 14 countries. And the food — oh, the food. What do you follow your alligator kabob with? Crawfish maque choux or boudin? How about a bread pudding or freshly boiled crawfish? We sampled these and many more during our three-day stay. With prices ranging from $3 to $5, who could complain? And we’ve never experienced oyster po-boys quite like those we had at Chris’ restaurant on Jefferson Street. Not overcooked, the oysters exploded in your mouth — all 11 of them.

Mousta Largo’s Mektoub Tour at the Lafayette Stage interrupted our eating. Based in Belgium, this astounding Moroccan group performed Maltian reggae, Moroccan salsa, and Argentinean flamenco. They even entertained the kids with tales of the Arabian nights the next day at La Place des Enfants, a stage reserved for the under-10 set.

When the schedule ends around 11 each night, anyone up for more music migrates to the Grant Street Dance Hall. Fortunately, we had enough energy left to go and be there the night when the best band in the world played (except for maybe the Rolling Stones). The festival program describes Suroit as “pure energy on stage,” and we wouldn’t argue that. For nearly three hours they performed what their manager labeled “traditionnelle Celtique de haute mer” (traditional Celtic of the high sea).

The group hails from Iles de la Madeleine, a small island group off the coast of Nova Scotia. “We are Cajuns just like you,” the accordionist said while introducing a song that could have migrated with the 18th-century Acadians to Louisiana. Their mix of fiddle, accordion, bagpipes, and mandolin, backed by drums and guitar, made for quite a show. After securing a promise from the manager that he would try to book them into the Hi-Tone in the near future, it was back to our motel for a few hours’ sleep.

When in Lafayette we usually reserve our Saturday morning for a pilgrimage to Mamou, just northwest of the city. Fred’s Lounge is the place to hear authentic Cajun music broadcast live on a local AM station. The small bar recently celebrated its 50th anniversary and on any given Saturday you might sip your Bloody Mary next to a biker from California, a student from Australia, or a Fontenot from Eunice.

The festival tries to bring in new groups each year, consistent with its mission to introduce world music to Louisiana. Although there are mostly groups from French-speaking nations (the festival bills itself as the largest Francophone event in the country), there are occasionally others. The Puerto Rican salsa band Jimmy Bosch and the hard rock of the Native-American band Indigenous are two examples.

Of the nearly 100 performances over the weekend, about 40 percent are regional Cajun groups. At Stage Louisiane you could attend a workshop in traditional Acadian music or marvel at master fiddler Rodney Fontenot. Undoubtedly, the surprise of the festival was the French band Les Yeux Noirs (the Black Eyes). The group was concerned that their music might not be appreciated in Cajun country; they shouldn’t have worried.

“The French know the music of Eastern Europe, but what about America?” asked Eric Flabiak, the lead fiddler. The members’ ethnic mix includes Russian, Polish, and Romanian. Previously known as the Black-eyed Gypsy Soul Sensation, their passionate songs, some in Yiddish, soon had the audience roaring its approval, forcing two encores.

By the time Sunday rolled around we were drinking nothing but bottled water. Unfortunately, one of the few cancellations of the festival was the Mahotella Queens from South Africa, who in the early 1960s experimented with traditional African music, rhythm and blues, soul, marabi (South African Jazz), and American gospel. Their music became the anthem of the resistance to apartheid.

Suroit (did we say they were the best band in the world?) played again that afternoon, and after Zachary Richard finished his set at 4 p.m. we were ready to face the trek back to Memphis. We were home before midnight carrying some of the best musical memories of our lives.

To access the festival’s Web site, go to www.festivalinternational.com. For more information on world-music festivals see Peter Gabriel’s womad (world of music, arts, and dance) site at www.womad.org.

Categories
Music Record Reviews

Short Cuts

As its title might indicate, The Facts of Life is a concept
album about sex. But unlike Let’s Get It On or, well, pretty much any
Prince record, celebrating carnal pleasure isn’t its primary point. Instead,
this British band has crafted a complicated, caring song cycle that addresses
sex among the young and inexperienced (and demystifies sex for the
young and inexperienced) from several angles, including the physical
difficulty of the act itself.

In terms of music and attitude, Black Box Recorder splits the
difference between archetypal, femme-fronted, trip-hop bands such as
Everything But the Girl and Portishead and the more lyrically pointed Brit-
rock of Pulp. The musical masterminds behind the group are Luke Haines of the
Auteurs and John Moore of the Jesus and Mary Chain, who craft minimalist
keyboard-based pop with subtle dub undercurrents — it’s sturdy, catchy stuff
that sounds as good on listen one as it does on listen 15, but it never draws
attention to itself. Instead singer Sarah Nixey’s voice is left up top,
putting across one whip-smart song after another. Nixey’s vocals are formal,
elegant, and considered but also convey compassion. She turns The Facts of
Life
from an ethnography on the travails of teen sex to a compendium of
sisterly (or even motherly) advice.

This second Black Box Recorder album has the audacity to begin
with three straight driving/sex metaphors — each at least in the same
aesthetic ballpark as “Little Red Corvette” and a whole lot more
honest and responsible. These songs are sweet, sly, and vivid. On “The
Art of Driving,” Nixey plays a sexual beginner cooly counseling an
overeager lover: “I wish you’d learn to slow down/You might get there in
the end/Don’t think the accelerator pedal is a man’s best friend/You don’t
have to break the speed limit/You don’t have to break your neck/Another speed-
boy racer/cut out from the wreck.” “Weekend” uses a weekend
road trip as a metaphor for sexual uncertainty, Nixey swooning to her driving
companion, “Maybe this weekend [pregnant pause] maybe never.”
And “The English Motorway System” contemplates the patience and
attention that go into the journey itself.

The lovely, hushed “May Queen” dramatically yet lightly
presents the first fumbling steps of school-age romance as private pact — its
first-kiss hesitancy rhyming with the carnal finale “Goodnight Kiss”
(“Use your imagination/We can go anywhere Tonight we’ll draw
blood”). But the centerpiece is the title track, an actual hit in
England. Most of the songs, understandably, are pitched from a female
perspective, but here Nixey turns a kind eye to the plight of an adolescent
boy phoning a girl for a date: “Now’s the time to deal with the fear of
being rejected/No one gets through life without being hurt/At this point the
boy who’s listening to this song is probably saying/that it’s easier said than
done/and it’s true.”

Not every song on The Facts of Life tackles Topic A.
“Straight Life” is a sardonic take on class and domesticity
(“home improvements/in our dream home,” Nixey croons) that recalls
Roxy Music and latter-day Gang of Four. But Black Box Recorder’s measured look
at the messy reality of physical intimacy among adolescents is what makes the
album special. With kids today subjected to a constant bombardment of teen-
diva sexpots and booty videos, it’s almost a public service announcement. —
Chris Herrington

Grade: A-

Catch-all, SWAG (Yep Roc Records)

SWAG is a Nashville “supergroup” composed of Robert
Reynolds and Jerry Dale McFadden, both of the now-defunct Mavericks, as well
as former Wilco drummer Ken Coomer, Cheap Trick bass player Tom Petersson, and
solo artist Doug Powell. As its title suggests, their debut album is a catch-
all of such pop influences as the Beach Boys, Big Star, and the Kinks — to
name just a few — and the band relies on them very heavily for direction and
inspiration.

Songs like “I’ll Get By” and “Ride” sound
like vintage Cheap Trick, and “When She Awoke” contains some very
Beach Boyish ba-ba-bas and lush orchestration. Both Reynolds and guest singer
Scotty Huff sound eerily like White Album-era Paul McCartney on
“Near Perfect Smile” and “Different Girl,”
respectively.

But the band plays with such energy and obvious affection for
these self-penned tunes that Catch-all becomes more than just the sum
of its influences. There’s a playful inventiveness here, evident in the
harpsichord groove on “Please Don’t Tell,” the smooth harmonica that
graces “Near Perfect Smile,” and the call-and-response solo between
baritone guitar and piano on “Eight.” Such unexpected flourishes add
life to the album. This project could easily have been derivative and stiff,
but Catch-all sounds spontaneous, endearing, and heartfelt. —
Stephen Deusner

Grade: B

Do What You Want, Garageland (Foodchain Records)

On Garageland’s second album, Do What You Want, singer
Jeremy Eades sounds like a forlorn, lovesick teen, inflating everyday romantic
confusion to dramatic life-or-death proportions. In the process, he and his
three fellow New Zealanders create catchy indie pop with occasional flashes of
eloquence and wit.

Eades is a master of portraying pain through small gestures. For
example, on the deceptively laid-back “Good Morning” he invests the
simple question “How are you?” with bittersweet yearning,
concluding, “It’s a small town/I’ll probably see you around.”

But Eades isn’t the only star on Do What You Want. Andrew
Claridge’s surprisingly versatile guitar scorches and burns through songs like
“Burning Bridges” and “Love Song” and shimmers
reassuringly on quieter numbers like “Good Luck” and “Good
Morning.” His playfully funky groove gives “Kiss It All
Goodbye” its sunny mood, while “Middle of the Evening” hinges
on his aching, echoing solo. There are a few moments, as on “What You
Gonna Do?,” when Claridge overpowers Eades’ vocals, upsetting the
otherwise appealing balance.

On the whole, the peaks on Do What You Want are higher
than the lows are low. It’s a fine album, uneven and a little misguided at
times, but it succeeds with frequent bursts of charm and insight. —
SD

Grade: B

Taj Mahal, Taj Mahal (Columbia/Legacy)

The second half of the 20th century saw numerous blues revivals.
The one that happened in the late ’60s is particularly memorable for much of
the execrable music made live and on record. White middle-class American and
English musicians who quickly made the transition from garage bands to yowling
hippie bluesmen should probably never be forgiven for the sheer tonnage of
crap they made from 1967 to 1972. Anyone who ever suffered through a boogie-
band night at the Overton Park Shell during that period will be quite familiar
with this phenomenon.

But there were exceptions, like the Massachusetts guitarist,
singer, blues historian and popularizer Taj Mahal, who was one of the first
out of the blues-revival chute with this recently re-released 1967 debut for
Columbia. What the screechy hippies strained for he simply delivered with only
a minimum of patchouli reek. The songs recorded here were all blues
clichés even by 1967 — three by Brownsville’s Sleepy John Estes,
Willie McTell’s “Statesboro Blues,” Sonny Boy Williamson’s
“Checkin’ Up On My Baby,” and even the inevitable cover of Robert
Johnson’s cover of “Dust My Broom.” But what’s interesting is the
alternating playfulness and reverence Mahal brings to the performance of these
predictable old chestnuts. No, the record is not a classic by any means, but
it sure beats the hell out of Keb Mo and the entire Alligator Records catalog.
Ross Johnson

Grade: B+

You can e-mail Chris Herrington at herrington@memphisflyer.com.

Categories
We Recommend We Recommend

wednesday, may 2nd

Want more garlic in your diet? At There s No Such Thing as Too Much Garlic, a cooking class tonight at Mantia s call 762-8560 for reservations learn about using garlic in soup, appetizers, entrees, and maybe even dessert. You probably won t want to bring a date though.

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We Recommend We Recommend

tuesday, may 1st

Looks like a good day to fly a kite in the Park. Watch Dark Angel on Fox. Visit a local eatery and promote the city s economy.

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We Recommend We Recommend

monday, april 30th

The Ladies of St. Jude Golf Tournament is today. It s for a good cause St. Jude and it s at the Windyke Country Club. Oh, and it starts at 8 a.m.

Categories
News The Fly-By

AL GORE’S ALBATROS (Part V)

Top Ten Responses To The Question, ‘How Fat Is Al Gore?’

1.He’s so fat, Clinton is thinking of hitting on him

— from The Late Show with David Letterman, April 27, 2001

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We Recommend We Recommend

sunday, april 29th

Hang out at Autozone Park as the Redbirds take on Salt Lake City for the last game of a four-game series.

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We Recommend We Recommend

saturday, april 28th

The Memphis Symphony Orchestra s last pops concert of the season features the astonishing Melba Moore and conductor Vincent L. Danner. It all happens 8 p.m. at Eudora Auditorium.

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We Recommend We Recommend

friday, april 27th

The Temptations and the Four Tops, together, at Horseshoe Casino.

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We Recommend We Recommend

thursday, april 26th

Kathy Webb, chef and part-owner of Lilly s Dim Sum, Then Some, hosts the restaurant s monthly Dinner with the Chef at 7 p.m. Reservations are required, but it s quite a feast with dim sum, yummy entrees, information about the dishes, and even dessert.