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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Grilling 101

Memphians love a cookout. There’s just something about smoked ribs with a hint of hickory flavor and marinated, grilled chicken breast that you can’t replicate in an oven or on the stove. But grilling can be an arduous task, full of laborious chores like lugging heavy bags of charcoal, keeping a constant eye on cooking meat, and scrubbing the grill afterward. Throw in the potential for eyebrow scorching, and this cooking technique may just be more trouble than it’s worth.

Nonsense, says grill guru Steven Raichlen. With just a little innovation and smarter operations, grilling can replace all other forms of preparing food. He ought to know. With a series of best-selling barbecue books, a television show, and a signature line of grilling utensils, Raichlen is the grill authority.

His path down charcoal road began in 1994, which he likened to hearing God’s voice saying, “Follow the fire.” Raichlen visited 25 countries on five continents before eventually publishing The Barbecue Bible. “Grilling is not rocket science. It’s done all over the world in primitive ways,” says Raichlen, who’s seen makeshift hubcap grills in Third World countries and open fires in the desert. Since then, he has gone on to write 26 books, defeat chefs Bobby Flay and Jacques Pepin in barbecue battles, and launch Barbecue University at the Greenbrier in West Virginia, where participants can earn grilling diplomas in a three-day crash course.

In the Raichlen household, every meal is grilled. When it comes to eating out, Raichlen doesn’t make judgments on others’ barbecue. “I celebrate regional variations,” he says. “People always ask who makes the best barbecue, and I don’t do that.” For Memphis, says Raichlen, what stands out are the dry rub and mustard glaze.

“The fascinating thing about grilling is that it’s different every time,” he says. “When you cook in an oven and set the temperature, it remains at a constant heat and the outcome is the same each time. With grilling, every time you build a fire it behaves differently.”

Raichlen is currently on a multi-city tour teaching audiences how to tame those fires and have a successful grill experience. The “Tools and Techniques Tour” includes information from The Barbecue Bible, as well as its counterpart, How To Grill. “[My] books are like food porn for guys who like to grill,” he says. “Lots of them feel like they should know how to grill, but you’re not born knowing it. You need to learn it.”

To reinforce these tenets, Raichlen’s tour programs demonstrate techniques similar to those found on his PBS show, Barbecue University, including the 10 Commandments of Grilling and the griller’s mantra: “Keep it hot. Keep it clean. Keep it lubricated.” Raichlen’s seminar also features the 53 gadgets in his new Best of Barbecue line, which includes a three-pound grill press and a clip-on grill headlight.

While some of the cool gadgets may be a little extreme for amateur grillers, Raichlen does advocate the essentials, such as tongs and basting and grill-cleaning brushes. He says the main objective of the tour is to teach people something they didn’t know. For men: It’s okay not to know how to grill. For women: Their stumbling block is usually lighting the fire. Raichlen first teaches gas-grill safety. He recommends gas grills for women for easier grilling. For both sexes, the most common mistake is covering the grill with food, which makes maneuvering difficult.

“Every time we fire up the grill, we remember the moment when we moved from animals to humans when we began cooking our food,” says Raichlen. “If you’ve been grilling the way your daddy taught you – to scorch everything until it’s blackened – you will realize that you can control the food. The food doesn’t have to control you.”

Steven Raichlens Tools and Techniques Tourat Viking Culinary Arts Center, 119 S. Main, 6th floor (578-5822), 5-7 p.m. Wednesday, June 22nd

by Janel Davis

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News The Fly-By

Yours, Mine, and Ours

Trammell Crow may have won the Memphis City Schools’ facilities maintenance battle, but the company’s predecessor is still in the war. At this week’s meeting, school board members questioned district administrators about the management transition since awarding Trammell Crow the contract in April.

MCS chief operations officer Lavon Alston presented an update recently during a committee meeting. While his report included a timeline of completed events, it also revealed a problem with existing maintenance equipment previously used by Aramark.

The company has said that much of the equipment now used in the district’s schools and warehouse — mops and buckets, as well as larger items like electric waxers — belongs to the company because of the initial contract agreement. But the district says they own some of the equipment. Superintendent Carol Johnson said administrators have talked with Aramark and that the company has other plans for their equipment and will not leave it with the district after their contract ends June 30th.

“The debate is who does own [the equipment]. The contract was signed 12 years ago [with Aramark] and the language is vague,” said Alston.

According to that June 1993, contract “all equipment provided by ServiceMaster [Aramark] in connection with management services … shall remain the property of ServiceMaster [Aramark].” But the contract also maintained that existing maintenance service equipment shall be provided by the district.

“The issue really is that much of the equipment is now outdated,” said city schools attorney Percy Harvey. “Since we decided to have Trammell Crow bring in new equipment anyway, it may not be worth it to challenge [Aramark] on it.”

Whether Aramark pursues legal action, it will not deter Trammell Crow from beginning their contractual obligations on July 1st, company representatives said. Trammell Crow’s $2.7 million bid, including costs for equipment purchases, was the lowest of those considered by the district.

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Cover Feature News

Towing the Line

Cynthia Smith’s morning was right on schedule. She left her home for work at the usual time, and although traffic was heavy, she made it with a few minutes to spare. But as she opened her car door, a man approached, flashing a gun underneath his shirt. He ordered Smith from the car, snatched her purse, then got in and sped off.

Eventually the thief was caught in Smith’s car, where he had been living for more than a week. Her car was towed to the Memphis Police Department’s (MPD) impound lot, where it sat for days while Smith wrangled with her insurance company over liability and fees. While the company finally agreed to tow the vehicle to a dealership, Smith had to pay two towing bills, impound-lot storage fees, and thousands of dollars in damages.

Not only was Smith robbed by a gunman, she was gouged by a Memphis towing system that is badly in need of an overhaul. A city ordinance is supposed to regulate the towing industry through a division of the Police Department. Unfortunately, the division is a one-person operation, and the ordinance — last revised in 1989 — is years beyond its usefulness. A committee composed of wrecker operators, attorneys, city councilmen, and members of the Police Department is working to update the policy and prevent lawsuits that have plagued other cities.

The MPD wants to regulate all service and storage charges. Wrecker owners say free enterprise is important to their business and that accusations of gouging are mostly unfounded. Meetings have been held since spring, headed by committee chair and city councilman E.C. Jones. “There had been requests from some wrecker owners about fees that haven’t been increased for some time, especially due to the increase in fuel costs,” Jones says. “We also had concerns from the Police Department that we needed to strengthen the ordinance a little. We’re not trying to keep people from getting in business, but we’re trying to make sure that the public is not being taken advantage of by unethical people.”

Everybody’s Business

When your car is towed for being illegally parked, or picked up after an accident, or moved from your home to a service station for minor repair work, you’re being served by the tow-truck industry. In Memphis, approximately 100 companies provide this service — towing cars, overturned tractor-trailers, hazardous-material containers, and stalled school buses — in order to keep city streets clear. The MPD uses a rotating list of 48 wrecker companies to tow more than 2,600 vehicles each month involved in wrecks, thefts, and DUIs.

Police sergeant Monique Campbell is the one-person division that enforces the city charter wrecker ordinance. Campbell is responsible for wreckers and other transportation services, such as taxis, horse carriages, and motorized scooters. “I feel safe in saying that [the MPD] is in good control of who’s driving and who’s towing for us,” she says. “But a lot of companies not on the [police rotation] list are not regulated by anybody. Sometimes they don’t even have regular business licenses, and that is a requirement.”

The city pays towing companies $75 for each car towed to either the city’s impound lot or to a privately owned lot. The fee is recouped by the city from vehicle owners or from their insurance companies. Companies set their own prices for private calls and non-consent tows. Vehicles towed by companies that are not on the police rotation list often charge fees double or even triple what the city pays.

The committee is proposing a $10 increase in fees to $85 and an increase to $95 over the next three years. The price would be standard for MPD calls, but officials are also considering regulating private towing companies as well. Wrecker operators say the increase is long overdue but still not adequate.

“Most of my business is private tows and body-shop contracts, but there are some [wrecker] companies out there really hurting because the city price is too low,” says All-Care Towing president and CEO Mike LaBudde. Like most wrecker operators, he thinks the $85 proposal from the city is inadequate. “The cost ha sn’t been raised in 10 years,” he says. “If we had been receiving a simple 3 or 4 percent cost-of-living raise each year, we wouldn’t be in this situation now. All we want is a fair price.”

A fair price is relative, says Dallas’ administrator of Transportation Regulation, Don Bearden. In the late 1990s, Dallas towing companies sued the city for an increase in police-call fees. Before the lawsuit, police tows in Dallas paid $48. The fee was increased to $95 after the suit, but with the fee increase came stiffer penalties for violating city towing ordinances. Similar issues have sparked new regulations and fee changes across the country. Congress is now considering legislation that would give authority for towing regulations to state governments.

“It’s funny that the wreckers talk about the injustice of the low city money but will tow for auto clubs for a lot less,” says Bearden, who oversees 43 companies on the Dallas police rotation list.

But LaBudde says comparing auto-club tows and city tows is comparing apples to oranges. “Of course, I’ll tow for AAA for less, because you can be done with the entire call in 20 minutes. Those calls are close to us and have a destination of less than five miles. There’s also no street to clean and no headache. Police calls can take up to four hours, depending on the traffic at the city’s impound lot,” he says.

In addition to running his company, LaBudde is president of the 25-member county towing association and vice president of the 60-member state towing association. The Shelby County organization has proposed raising the standard price for police calls to $135. “The city must come up to $135, or they’ll be hard-pressed to find someone to tow for them,” says LaBudde. “If they go jacking with us, they’ll never forget it.”

What Memphis residents are unlikely to forget are the increased costs. Not only will they be responsible for the towing fee, but other proposed increases would also hit their pocketbooks.

The administrative fee assessed for each tow ticket processed at the city’s impound lot is being raised from $5 to $7.50. The fee, currently paid by wrecker operators, could soon become the responsibility of vehicle owners. Storage fees, also paid by vehicle owners, could increase to $20 each day. Also on the horizon is a Police Department plan to increase the size of the city’s vehicle storage facility, which would cost taxpayers about $17 million in capital improvement funds.

Cost of Business

Under the city’s proposed ordinance changes, fees charged to wrecker companies for things such as zone stickers and permits could increase as well.

“People would be surprised at how much it costs to keep gas in my trucks or that it costs me $870 per truck for tags,” says LaBudde. “That’s not even counting the cost of salaries. I don’t think anybody would want to work today for the same amount they were getting 10 years ago.”

Not only have expenses increased but so has the danger, says Memphis wrecker operator James Birch. While working in Ft. Worth, Texas, Birch nearly lost his life at an apartment complex when the vehicle owner fired 17 rounds into his tow truck. A bullet through the door left Birch with a deflated lung and broken ribs. The shooter’s reason for shooting at the tow truck driver: “to scare him a little.” Birch bought a $55,000 repo-style truck instead of the flatbeds used by most wrecker companies. Now he rarely has to leave his vehicle.

“The city is trying to regulate something they know nothing about,” he says. Birch tows for European Wrecker and Body Shop on Main Street. The business operates three lots and is on the city’s rotation list, towing in downtown and Midtown. “There is no profit to be made in towing for the city, and it takes too long,” says Birch. He says the city is punishing everybody for the actions of a few.

During a Flyer ride-along, Birch removed three vehicles from the New Horizon Apartments on Millbranch. Although the tows were not police calls, they still had to be reported to police communications, or COMSTAT.

The first tow went smoothly. Birch’s new truck can secure a car in about five seconds. The second tow became momentarily tense when the vehicle owner came onto the parking lot, but he left without confronting Birch.

Birch’s biggest complaint is that he can’t get through to COMSTAT on a timely basis. Before towing a vehicle, a wrecker driver must notify the Police Department. On this occasion, Birch got five busy signals before finally reaching an operator. Then he had to wait 20 minutes, after which he was told to call back in 10 minutes. It took Birch a half-hour to get through and report that he was going to tow a vehicle.

“That’s a short call,” Birch says. “Lots of times the system goes down or the operators are in the middle of a shift change and you’re stuck waiting for at least an hour.” Birch estimates that his company spends about 3,000 minutes each month on the line with COMSTAT. “That’s ridiculous,” he says. “Can you imagine holding up your employees for that long? That lost time and money have to be made up.”

Gene and Lisa Gleaves have owned Gleaves Towing on Democrat Road for 30 years and have been on the police rotation list since its inception. About 30 percent of their business is city calls.

Lisa Gleaves is one of the most vocal members of the city’s towing ordinance committee. Gleaves has seen towing-business costs skyrocket. “Everything has increased, from fuel to steel. The city isn’t even offering us what they did 15 years ago,” she says. “It granted companies a $20 increase then, and now they want to give us half of that. I think the police officers understand what we do, because they are out there in the streets with us, and just like them, we’re always the bad guys. Whether it’s an accident or not, no one likes to see a tow truck.”

“We can talk till we’re blue in the face,” says LaBudde, “but we’re going to get what the city gives us.”

Whatever is passed will at least be a step in the right direction, says Lisa Gleaves. “It’s time for this dinosaur to be updated. For many people a car is their second largest investment, and as wreckers we owe them quality service to protect that investment,” she says.

The motto on the back of Gleaves’ business card sums it up: “The bitterness of poor service remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.”

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News The Fly-By

F-Stop

“Tell us who you are, where you live, and where you get your mail,” reads the first page of a TennCare Bureau questionnaire. Answers on the questionnaire determine the fate of continued state health-care coverage for 323,000 current TennCare recipients.

Recipients have 30 days to complete the surveys and return them to county Department of Human Services (DHS) offices. Once received, DHS officials will determine continued eligibility under TennCare Medicaid.

Those not meeting the qualification for the streamlined TennCare coverage are kicked off the plan via a letter from the bureau: “DHS looked at the facts and papers you gave them. They said you don’t qualify for Medicaid. Their letter to you said why. Your TennCare will end on <20 days after receiving the letter>.” Those likely to be cut include recipients 19 and older on the TennCare Standard program, uninsured and uninsurable adults eligible for coverage elsewhere, non-pregnant adults 21 and older in medically needy categories, and those covered under the federal Medicare program.

A possible reprieve still looms for 97,000 of the most medically needy recipients, but a long-debated consent decree must first be restructured.

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News The Fly-By

F-Stop

Memphis Area master gardeners spent part of last weekend on their knees, but it wasn’t in prayer. Instead, more than 35 volunteers planted 3,600 red and white vinca plants at East Parkway and Madison, bringing back the big Memphis “M”.

The planting project was organized by the Memphis City Beautiful Commission (MCBC), after they received phone calls from concerned citizens about the once-vibrant landscaping.

“This area is usually maintained by [the city’s division of] park services,” said organization chairperson Bethany Smith. “With the mayor cutting the staff of that division, the plan for the M was to leave it empty this season.” Springing into action, the group raised $1,500 to buy the plants and recruited the Americorps Exchange Club to clean out the bed.

To a passerby, the M looks compact, but at close range, the bed is immense. According to master gardener Fern Gagnon, the giant flowerbed is 50 feet by 70 feet and requires more than two hours to water. The gardening group will weed and maintain the bed throughout the summer. MCBC has already been approached about the other Memphis M, located near the airport. The organization is looking for corporate sponsors to manage that project.

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Opinion

It’s a Woman Thing … and Men Too

“I call this year’s showcase ‘10 years of yes I can,’” says Sisterhood Showcase founder and Grace magazine editor Tina Birchett. ?This shows that anyone who has a dream, is in the process of taking a leap of faith, or thinking about taking a leap of faith can make it.?

This week, the four-day showcase — full title: the Sisterhood Outreach Summit & Showcase — celebrates its anniversary with celebrities, physicians, and motivational speakers under the theme “A Reunion of Sisters.” In addition, this year’s showcase has an emphasis on men.

The showcase has continued to grow since its inception in 1996, Birchett says. At that time, the event was a small affair with the specific goal of reaching African-American women about health issues. The enthusiasm of participants led Birchett to hold the showcase a second year and to begin the quarterly magazine Grace.

“Everyone thinks that the showcase grew out of Grace, but it’s the other way around,” she says. “So many people were enlightened by that first show that they wanted me to coordinate the event each month, but there was no way to pull that off. So, I did the next best thing, a magazine, and made the showcase its signature annual event.”

But keeping this type of show unique was a challenge. In fact, similar events in other cities were unsuccessful or became little more than flea markets and weekend socials. To keep her event from losing its significance, Birchett refuses to use labels such as “expo” and “festival.” “I keep the word ‘showcase’ at the front of my brain at all times,” she says. “And I measure all of the planned events by that standard. Is this a showcase event or an expo event?”

Birchett’s event is distinguished by its balance of entertainment and education. In addition to the annual men’s fashion show and concerts, this year’s showcase also brings a new partnership with Black Entertainment Television and the BET Foundation’s traveling health initiative. Panelists, including actress Vivica Fox and celebrity fitness trainer Jeanette Jenkins, candidly discuss everything from heart disease to HIV/AIDS during a two-hour seminar.

“We look at activities that have had measured success in local markets that focus on the concerns of the Africa-American community,” says BET Foundation executive director Lynda Dorman. “Women should come prepared to ask questions, then go the next step and enter the booths for health screenings.”

This year, the event has expanded to four days to include a publisher’s luncheon, a golf tournament, and a comedy show. Also on the list of new events is a Saturday-morning gospel service, a children’s area, and presentation of the Grace Award to four Mid-South women.

The 10th-anniversary year is also about men. Each year the event attracts about 20,000 visitors, with 15 percent of those being men. With returning host and actor Shemar Moore, a partnership with the 100 Black Men, and concerts by R&B performers Tweet and Temmora, Birchett expects male attendance to possibly reach 35 percent. Highlighting the men’s participation will be a march from Peabody Place to the convention center led by the 100 Black Men organization, followed by a forum on improving self-confidence, self-love, and self-image. If the men get tired, Birchett has created a lounge area for them.

For Birchett, there appears to be no slowing down. “For years, people have tried to get me to move the show from here to a larger city, but I believe in Memphis, “ says Birchett. “My continual dream and prayer was, If we could just make it to the 10th show. We have made it, and I do plan on an 11th and beyond.” n

The Sisterhood Outreach Summit & Showcase takes place June 2nd-5th at the Memphis Cook Convention Center. For a complete listing of events, visit SisterhoodShowcase.com. For more information, call 579-9333.

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News The Fly-By

Tough Questions

Where did you attend school? Where were you born? What is your last name?

For most people these questions are routine, but illegal aliens often fear that answering such questions could get them deported. The issue got more complicated last week when the federal government approved health-care reimbursement payments to hospitals and doctors across the country to help recoup the expense of providing services to illegal immigrants. Costs for these services have skyrocketed in recent years, hurting hospitals financially and forcing doctors to provide services free of charge.

Under the new plan, the Centers for Medicare and Medicaid Services (CMS) will distribute $1 billion over the next four years. Two-thirds of the money will go to health-care providers based on the estimated number of undocumented aliens in each state. The remaining third will be distributed among six states with the highest number of undocumented alien arrests, including the border states of California, Texas, and Arizona.

But there’s a catch: To receive the quarterly reimbursements, hospitals must prove that they are treating illegal immigrants by questions such as those above. But the questions can frighten patients who are in the U.S. illegally and make them less likely to seek treatment.

“Word will get out to the immigrant community that the funds are there and that these are the questions that the hospital is asking,” says Dr. Stuart Polly, chief medical officer at the Regional Medical Center of Memphis (the Med). “It’s going to be uncomfortable for our staff to ask them, and it’s going to be uncomfortable for the patients to answer them. I’m sure they would like us to recover the money, but at the same time they don’t want to jeopardize their personal status.”

Polly is no stranger to immigrant issues, having spent years at a border hospital in El Paso, Texas. “I think it’s a good thing that the federal government has now realized that it costs to care for this population and is willing to put some money into emergency care,” he says.

According to the federal Division of Immigration and Naturalization Services (INS), more than seven million illegal aliens live in the U.S. Approximately 46,000 illegal immigrants live in Tennessee.

The Med is one of several Tennessee hospitals vying for a share of the state’s $1 million allotment for fiscal year 2005. While the Med has no way of knowing what percentage of its patients are in the country illegally, the foreign patient population has increased exponentially. In 2004, the number of Hispanic patients — the Med’s largest foreign-born population — almost doubled from 2003.

(The Med is also seeing an increase in Asian and African patients. The federal government requires that translator services be provided for non-English-speaking patients. Those who speak a more common language, such as Spanish, are assigned interpreters. For more unusual languages and dialects, translations are done by telephone.)

CMS payments only reimburse hospitals for the “stabilization” of patients. Costs for treatments and follow-up hospital visits are not covered. This exclusion has spurred protests from health-care providers, who say they need additional funds for follow-up care.

“No hospital is going to release a patient before they’re ready, and there’s much more to treatment than stabilization,” Polly says. “The emergency room visit or the trauma center bills will be considered if we bill them correctly and if we have collected the indirect information on a patient’s immigration status. The remainder of their hospital stay will not be covered, nor will the cost of returning the patient to their home country if that is necessary. It’s kind of a mixed message.”

The Med staff has not yet developed a protocol for the indirect questioning and subsequent filing of forms to receive CMS payments.

“I think hospitals across the state will look at the impact for them and decide whether it is worth participating [in the program],” says Polly, adding that the Med will continue to provide care for all patients, regardless of immigration status. “There’s no question about that,” he says.

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News The Fly-By

A Quickie with

Last week, Newsweek released its annual list of America’s best high schools. The ranking is based on the number of college preparatory Advanced Placement (AP) or International Baccalaureate (IB) tests taken last year by all students at each public school, then divided by the number of graduating seniors at those schools. Exams scores are not a factor in the rankings, and the list does not include private schools or schools requiring academic prerequisites for entrance.

Topping the list was Jefferson County High School in the small town of Irondale, Alabama. No school in Tennessee appeared on the list until the mid-300s. (Numbers one to 100 were included in the magazine’s printed May 16th edition. Numbers 101-1,000 were featured in an extended online story.) Locally, White Station High School was ranked 621 (falling from 353 last year) and was the only Memphis or Shelby County school to make this year’s list.

Flyer: White Station made Newsweek‘s list again this year. What do you think about that?

Winnette: Anytime you receive positive recognition, it’s a good thing, but the ranking is definitely not the whole picture of a school. I would really like to see a ranking based on results of the tests and not just the number of students who took them. I think we would fare higher on that type ranking than a lot of the schools on the list.

White Station was the only Memphis school to make the list. What sets this school apart from other public high schools?

Our students are self-motivated and have lofty goals. They know that the AP tests and honors classes are important. We offer 18 AP classes. Two hundred sixty-two students took at least one AP test last year and our success rate was 83 percent. We also have a good mix of parents, teachers, and students who don’t settle for doing or accepting less than they can.

These kids compete against each other in class and on the tests, and that makes a big difference. A teacher can do so much more when students already understand the importance of education than when he/she has to continually motivate her students. At my previous school, kids hid their smarts; here smarts are “in.”

This ranking is based on only one criterion. What other criteria would better represent your school?

The amount of scholarships earned by our students — more than $14 million last school year — where the students were accepted [to college], and our National Merit Scholars. Things like that provide a more complete picture.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Supply Side

You wanna see the coolers?”

Sure, why not?

“We’re one of the last companies that still processes our own meat,” says Fayette Packing owner David Keith. “Our niche has always been fresh.”

Here at Fayette Packing, fresh means animals hanging from the ceiling. Someone has to provide the whole hogs, pork shoulders, and ribs for the teams competing at the three-day Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest. But can’t you just go to the neighborhood Kroger and fill your cart? Not if you’re in it to win it, according to barbecue experts.

Shelby County commissioner and prize-winning barbecuer John Willingham once drove to a Tennessee farm in Fayette County and picked his own pig, fed it a mixture of food and barbecue seasoning, had it processed at Fayette Packing, and entered it in the contest. “I don’t remember if he won with that pig or not,” says Keith. “But it made for a great story.”

Fayette Packing has been working with barbecue teams for the past 25 years. This year, the company will provide the meat, including 50 whole hogs, for about 100 teams. In the last five years, Keith estimates that Fayette’s meats have finished at least third in the whole-hog, ribs, and shoulder categories. In 2002, the company was the official meat sponsor for the barbecue competition. Their reputation has expanded beyond Tom Lee Park, and the company now provides meat for the Tunica Rivergate Barbecue Festival and for traveling teams entering contests across the country.

The company was started by Keith’s grandfather and has been in the meat business for 50 years. Many of its processed hogs and cattle are locally raised by Fayette County farmers. Orders are handled by 12 employees. Custom processing — from slaughters to vacuum packing — accounts for a small amount of business. From the holding pen to the table, pigs take about a week and cows require three weeks for processing. But most of Fayette’s work is wholesale. The company makes sausage for Exline’s pizza, shoulders for the Rendezvous, and their own brand of sausage and barbecue rub under the Keith Farms label.

“We did 18 pig kills today. If you’d come a little earlier, you would have seen the care we take with our meats,” said Keith. “That’s what matters: quality.”

Fineberg Packing in North Memphis also supplies Memphis in May barbecue teams, including up to 10 teams this year. Although the company ceased live kills four years ago, it can still provide whole hogs through a third party.

These days, the company processes its own bologna, links, hot dogs, and bacon and functions as a supplier of finished meat products.

Fineberg’s plant manager won’t let his name be used in this story, but he’s been at the business 45 years and everyone in the industry knows him . “The company is not about me. It’s about that man up there,” he says, pointing to a wall portrait of founder Ben Fineberg, who began the business in 1938.

Whoever gets the credit is not nearly as important as the 25 items that Fineberg sells, such as its Starling brand bologna found in grocery stores across the Mid-South.

“Darling, Get Starling” reads the label. The plant manager is proud of the bologna. In fact, he keeps a cutting board and knife in a desk drawer.

“Taste that,” he says, slicing a thin piece. “We don’t put any extra stuff in our bologna, like chicken livers.”

Fineberg also sells items under the Chelsea label, as well as LaRosa hot tamales. About 50 employees man the plant, which like Fayette Packing, operates year round.

“We have provided jobs for people in this part of town for a long time,” says the manager. “It’s an accomplishment to just say you made it this far.”

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Supply Side

” You wanna see the coolers? ”

Sure, why not?

“We’re one of the last companies that still processes our own meat,” says Fayette Packing owner David Keith. “Our niche has always been fresh.”

Here at Fayette Packing, fresh means animals hanging from the ceiling. Someone has to provide the whole hogs, pork shoulders, and ribs for the teams competing at the three-day Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest. But can’t you just go to the neighborhood Kroger and fill your cart? Not if you’re in it to win it, according to barbecue experts.

Shelby County commissioner and prize-winning barbecuer John Willingham once drove to a Tennessee farm in Fayette County and picked his own pig, fed it a mixture of food and barbecue seasoning, had it processed at Fayette Packing, and entered it in the contest. “I don’t remember if he won with that pig or not,” says Keith. “But it made for a great story.”

Fayette Packing has been working with barbecue teams for the past 25 years. This year, the company will provide the meat, including 50 whole hogs, for about 100 teams. In the last five years, Keith estimates that Fayette’s meats have finished at least third in the whole-hog, ribs, and shoulder categories. In 2002, the company was the official meat sponsor for the barbecue competition. Their reputation has expanded beyond Tom Lee Park, and the company now provides meat for the Tunica Rivergate Barbecue Festival and for traveling teams entering contests across the country.

The company was started by Keith’s grandfather and has been in the meat business for 50 years. Many of its processed hogs and cattle are locally raised by Fayette County farmers. Orders are handled by 12 employees. Custom processing — from slaughters to vacuum packing — accounts for a small amount of business. From the holding pen to the table, pigs take about a week and cows require three weeks for processing. But most of Fayette’s work is wholesale. The company makes sausage for Exline’s pizza, shoulders for the Rendezvous, and their own brand of sausage and barbecue rub under the Keith Farms label.

“We did 18 pig kills today. If you’d come a little earlier, you would have seen the care we take with our meats,” said Keith. “That’s what matters: quality.”

Fineberg Packing in North Memphis also supplies Memphis in May barbecue teams, including up to 10 teams this year. Although the company ceased live kills four years ago, it can still provide whole hogs through a third party.

These days, the company processes its own bologna, links, hot dogs, and bacon and functions as a supplier of finished meat products.

Fineberg’s plant manager won’t let his name be used in this story, but he’s been at the business 45 years and everyone in the industry knows him . “The company is not about me. It’s about that man up there,” he says, pointing to a wall portrait of founder Ben Fineberg, who began the business in 1938.

Whoever gets the credit is not nearly as important as the 25 items that Fineberg sells, such as its Starling brand bologna found in grocery stores across the Mid-South.

“Darling, Get Starling” reads the label. The plant manager is proud of the bologna. In fact, he keeps a cutting board and knife in a desk drawer.

“Taste that,” he says, slicing a thin piece. “We don’t put any extra stuff in our bologna, like chicken livers.”

Fineberg also sells items under the Chelsea label, as well as LaRosa hot tamales. About 50 employees man the plant, which like Fayette Packing, operates year round.

“We have provided jobs for people in this part of town for a long time,” says the manager. “It’s an accomplishment to just say you made it this far.”