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News News Feature

TRANSLATION: MEMPHIS

WAXING MY WINGS

I think that I was born with somewhat of an Icarus syndrome.

Ever since I was a tiny Jenn I’ve always loved to fly, and the fascination remains with me today. Of course, I prefer wings that are welded and made of steel as opposed to those feathered and adhered with wax, but I think you know what I mean.

There’s something about glimpsing the world from a vantage point where the people disappear, where scale shifts and geography widens, that stills me. From thousands of feet in the air the will of any one being falls away and towns, cities even, begin to show personalities in and of themselves.

Over the past several weeks I had occasion to fly from Philadelphia to Dallas to Chicago to Memphis. Such is the whirlwind of the thrifty vacationer who’ll make connections in favor of reduced airfares. The synopsis of my journey: NJ/Philly, 24 hours (after 17 hours in the car, yippee); Dallas, 2 hours; LA, 96 hours; Chicago, 5 hours; airtime, roughly 10.

While the trip was fun, and I had the perfect holiday with my family on my brief day spent in New Jersey, one of the best parts of the entire trip was looking at our city from overhead at night.

Having my first pedicure, writing a wedding ceremony, running around barefoot in a Chinese bridesmaid’s dress that didn’t quite fit me, drinking too many White Russians and spending too much money on myself in the spirit of vacation weren’t too bad either.

The grandeur of my return was probably heightened in significance due to the gut-shattering proliferation of turbulence from O’Hare to Memphis.

Even post-September 11th, I still love to fly, though I apparently represent something of a security threat in my appearance and am ALWAYS the person whose bags are randomly screened. But a small plane jostling through thunderstorms does not a happy traveler make. Even for a travel-happy Jenn.

That being said, the sight of Memphis lit up like a Lite-Brite below me was gorgeous. I saw tiny model houses with their tinier model cars in the driveway, all without conflict or trouble perceptible from such a height. Just barely could I make out the vaguest hint of some holiday lights, most likely from the more ostentatious holiday cheer types.

I haven’t yet decided whether it was this holiday display or that along the highway to the Jersey shore, cast in the glare of sleet and snow, that was more impressive. To be sure, I saw neither from my normal vantage pointÑthat of the last minute shopper who might or might not notice them on the way to Target or some such last-minute shopping Mecca.

But back to Memphis from the sky…

The lights of the bridge twinkled in the Mississippi’s eyes, and the Pyramid looked less like a debated social eyesore and more majestic, like a pyramid should be.

Trailer hitches awaiting trucks or railway assignment were piled high like so many Legos.

And our airport being the distribution capital for all airports, there were of course many other planes all around in their own holding patterns. In fact, I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many planes awaiting landing in my life, with the possible exception of Newark airport.

It’s funny, what looks like a swarm of red fireflies is really millions of other things–

people, mail, cargo.

To put this all in perspective, I spent about 13 of the hours preceding my descent either in the air or languishing in various airports, but I don’t think the overhead view of the city at night would have diminished any were it only one.

Like I said, perception is a funny thing from the sky.

Categories
News News Feature

TRANSLATION: MEMPHIS: Moments of Grace

Ahh…the season it is. A time for hustle and bustle, as the cliché demands.

Of course, the month for last minute shopping and shopping and shopping brings with it the unfortunate dilemma of how to drive ANYWHERE without ending up in a wreck.

It seems that the would-be Santa’s of the world lose track of the little things, such as those yellow and white lines in the roads. Pedestrians dreaming of sugar plums can be seen dancing into the center of almost every intersection in the city, and I won’t even get into the logistics of trying to make one’s way through the mall…

I attempted to brave Wolfchase this weekend, and I didn’t even get to see Mr. Claus what with the intricate waltz that is walking through a mall in December. Therein is yet one more reason to patronize the small independent places of business that aren’t located in a shopping center.

But back to the driving. In the last week, I have seen more wrecks and almost wrecks than in the previous six months combined. Not that I’m the perfect driver.

When heading South on Cleveland the other day, I was reminded of a beautiful little event that occurred in my driving life not to long ago–one I thought I’d share in the light of the season. It was inspiring to me, at least.

I was on this particular occasion heading South on Cleveland, towards Jefferson en route to a storage facility where my best friend had stowed away her things when she left for the bright lights of Los Angeles.

At this point in my life as a Memphian, I was not yet aware of that tiny quirk wherein you can’t go left almost anywhere in the city, and especially in that part of the city. So, obviously, I went left.

In my defense, I was en route to fulfilling a favor for somebody, so I technically should have been exempt from the no left rule. I say this in jest, but I also think that it is the type of thinking that informs our collective behavior on the roads during the season of good tidings and such.

Needless to say, my bad decision was rewarded with the appearance of flashing lights, and a certain settling in the pit of my stomach that can only be translated as “damn it.”

I rolled down my window, awaiting the appearance of the harbinger of my punishment, and listened to the sound of those heavy black boots approaching. And then, something amazing happened!

With a crack and a roll, the sky poured down with the most amazing deluge I have ever been so happy to witness. Then the officer who was about to ticket me told me to forget it, and ran back to his car…I was free!

Though this was a major moment of victory for me, and I thank the kind heart of the officer who didn’t want to be wet, it’s obvious that this type of thing doesn’t happen every day.

In my particular case, I think it was payback for the time that I was pulled over by a Memphis officer in squad car #666, and given a court date of Friday the 13th. (Truly, I am not making that up!)

My point, though, is that we are subject to the laws of traffic and mortality even when we’re out doing things for othersÉso drive carefully, because I, for one, want to make it home for the holidays.

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Opinion Viewpoint

TRANSLATION: MEMPHIS: The Memphis, er, St. Louis Blues Again

It’s a surprisingly easy drive from here to St. LouisÑstraight up 55 and into the land of beer and brick. I’d never made the trip before, and when presented with the opportunity last weekend I jumped on it like the travel-friendly girl that I am.

One interesting thing about Memphis is how you can drive roughly five hours in any direction and land in a place completely different than if you had spun the compass another way. You’ve got Little Rock, New Orleans, northwestern Arkansas, eastern Tennessee, and of course, St. Louis, the proverbial gateway to the West.

To start, I’d never seen the easterly boundary of Arkansas before.

Immediately after crossing the bridge on 40, a friend of mine pointed out a “village” of sorts along the banks of the river where it is rumored that some of the area’s gypsy population makes home.

There you find a sea of broke-down cars, buses, and miscellaneous metal that I had never noticed before, and that somehow looked beautiful, the occasional retired carnival ride amidst the clutter.

Something is chilling about a half-carousel on the side of the road, rusting and fading rainbow colors in the light. It’s as if you can imagine the ghosts of children perched upon it and waiting for it to come back to life again.

Or maybe I was just feeling poetic since I hadn’t been out of the city in a while. Oh well.

Continuing on, we made our way through Missouri, land of the disturbing signage. Every mile or so we were directed to drink beer, to secure a DNA test to determine the identity of our baby’s daddy, and to avoid abortion at all cost.

Most of the anti-abortion ads were unfortunately positioned right before Smirnoff Ice ads, but what can you do? Perhaps the participation in “intelligent nightlife” prevents the situation that might land one with an unplanned pregnancy.

It is worthy of note, though, the way the temperament of a particular region’s population can be gleaned from the type of advertising and socio-political commentary that goes on along its highways.

As you pull into St. Louis from 55 North, you get your first glimpse of the famed Gateway Arch through the steam that billows off of the Anheuser-Busch plant. The passage to the west, it seems, is lined with barley and hops.

To celebrate, I proceeded to drink entirely too much beer.

Our journey to St. Louis was made to catch a band named Coalesce, and they played at a tiny little club called the Creepy Crawl on N. Tucker. Think the Map Room’s basement, but with a caged in bar for the over-21 crowd.

St. Louis itself reminded me a lot of Pittsburgh or Philadelphia, but crossed with a certain I-don’t-know-what from Memphis.

It’s almost too easy to imagine the city in its heyday, strange people in old-fashioned outfits bustling down the street. I spent a good amount of time sitting in the window of our room at the Day’s Inn, pushing my mind to envision it that way.

Though the city is indeed run-down in many sections, including the area in which we stayed, it seems that the demolition crews have chosen to keep a remarkable number of the old buildings standing. I wish that modern architecture would be this ornate.

Swirls of brick caught the light in every directionÑreds spanning from the color of a day old rose to the burnt sienna recreated by Crayola. It was gorgeous in that way that appeals to those enchanted by the past.

PlusÑand here’s a major bonusÑthere was a bar that had the decency to make available a pinball machine. I think every bar should have pinball, and if you know of such a place in Memphis, please tell me!

But I digress, as I’m known to do.

It seems that as quickly as we got to St. Louis it was time to leave, but I’m glad to have made the trip. The more you know about the places in proximity to your home, the more the identity of your home makes itself clear.

It’s a strange equation that involves geography, identity, and the passing of miles, and in spite of all of the beer, I think I learned something.

Categories
News News Feature

TRANSLATION: MEMPHIS

With its recent change in ownership, back in April, the Hi-Tone Café in Midtown has been serving up an increasingly eclectic entertainment menu of late.

From week to week, and with a thumbs up from Jenn, their offerings are straying beyond any one definition of cool, so to speak. I’d say that’s a good sign–a healthy city needs venues that incorporate a variety of creativity, and a good club should do just that.

This coming Sunday, that shift will lean towards the metal side with a double-bill including Jersey’s Dillenger Escape Plan and Atlanta’s Mastodon. YES!

If you like your music brash, aggressive and bad ass, then you have absolutely no excuse not to be there.

Besides, um, it’s a Sunday night. What else do you have to do, watch TV? The Simpsons are a rerun this week.

Ever since I first heard Mastodon, I’ve been a huge fan, in case you care. Sometimes, metal can fall on the cacophonous side, which for me is absolutely fine. If that’s intimidating to you, though, rest assured.

Mastodon is as heavy as they are rhythmic.

Composed of ex-members of Today is the Day, Lethargy and Social Infestation, the quartet puts on a live show that puts this relatively new band in the running to blow away many of their contemporaries. Much of this can be credited to their drummer, Brann Dailor, who is probably one of the best live drummers I’ve ever seen.

Mastodon is opening the show for The Dillenger Escape Plan. This Jersey quartet combine metal and hardcore to a blistering effect, and boast a collaboration with the now ubiquitous Mike Patton of Faith No More fame on their most recent album, entitled Irony is a Dead Scene. And isn’t it though?

I think we can blame Alanis Morissette for the death of irony. Damn her.

Anyhow, another bonus as far as The Dillenger Escape Plan is concerned is that they’ve got a song called The Mullet Burden. (I’m building a case here…are you swayed yet?)

If you haven’t heard of these bands, there are tracks all over the Internet, so sample it and then go. I’d check out the Relapse Records label website to start.

Well, I guess that’s enough biased promotion for today. Keep this in mind though–if you stay home to watch the Hollywood Christmas Spectacular instead of catching this show, I’ll be very disappointed in you.

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News News Feature

TRANSLATION: MEMPHIS: Karoling A La Karaoke

Do you ever find yourself languishing around the house on a Friday or Saturday night, unsure of what to do?

Let’s just say you’re a bit listless and eager to be amused. You want to have a bit of fun, but don’t want to go far, and for whatever reason don’t even care what kind of triviality might pull you off of the couch for a little while.

I found myself in this predicament this weekend, and somehow was enticed to go check out one of the sillier mainstays of the Memphis weekendÑkaraoke at Yosemite Sam’s.

And indeed, it’s nothing if not ridiculous, which is not a criticism exactly.

Yosemite’s has to be one of the few real dives left in the city. It seems that time stopped in this little venue quite some time ago, although that’s what lends it a certain lowbrow charm that the newer bars can’t emulate.

I mean, you’ve seen the outside of the place, haven’t you? If that paint job isn’t old school, then I don’t know what isÉ

And the karaoke? This is standard, bad, karaoke, which isn’t so bad what with the cheap, free-flowing pitchers of beer that scatter the tables en masse. In fact, I recommend a drink or two if you’re brave enough to brave the best of the worst.

It’s hard to pin down exactly what makes this cultural phenomenon so enticing. Maybe it has something to do with the media-driven culture of celebrity that pervades every moment of our lives as consumers. Is it that a moment with a microphone and some backing tracks gives us the chance to reclaim our pop idols and make them more our own?

Perhaps.

Either way, it’s fun as hellÑat least once. Plus there’s no cover, which is always a motivating factor for me. Yes, I’m cheap, and I’ll stand proud and admit it!

On the particular evening that I traveled into this odd vortex of song and parody, there were quite a few people there, eager to show off their, um, talents.

There was not-Patsy Cline, not-Garth, not-Bon Jovi, and even a not-David Allen Coe.

Come to think of it there were quite a few voyages back into the splendor of 1980’s Bon Jovi rockdom, strangely. I heard a guy over my shoulder commenting that it’s nice how it’s cool to like Bon Jovi again. As if we ever stopped.

But the latter, the David Allen Coe tune came to infect my weekend with a vengeance.

Actually, it was the Coe rendition of the Steve Goodman song, You Never Even Called Me by my Name. You probably know it. “You don’t have to call me darlin’, darlin’. You never even called me by my name…”

Of course, I had never heard it before, which probably makes me a big fat loser. In my defense, though, my parents didn’t listen to country, so I never got to hear these classics in my Yankee childhood. Only now, in my Southern youth, am I discovering such things.

No matter. When my boyfriend heard the song, he spent the rest of the weekend singing it all over the house, in the car, in the shower. Now that song is a part of me, all thanks to Yosemite Sam.

As I said, an evening in this Midtown haunt is not by any means a highbrow event.

But it is fun, and on certain weekend nights that’s really all that matters.

Categories
Art Art Feature

ESTIMATING ACKER

Essential Acker:

The Selected Writings

of Kathy Acker

Edited by Amy Scholder and

Dennis Cooper

Grove Press; 335 pp.; $15 (paper)

Rip-off Red, Girl

Detective/The Burning Bombing of America

By Kathy Acker

Grove Press; 201 pp.; $14 (paper)

I’m not easily destructible as I allow them their destruction. this begins this dense hardly understandable material. through illusion and fantasies who are reality. necessities. you will have to try to understand.

— from The Burning Bombing of America

Kathy Acker, to be certain, was not an author who created easy, cover-to-cover reads. If profanity, violence, pornography, poetry, or nontraditional literary forms offend you, then you might want to steer clear of her entirely. But if you enjoy (or can at least tolerate) these things, then a foray into Acker’s world can be as rewarding as it is challenging.

That said, Essential Acker and Rip-off Red, Girl Detective and The Burning Bombing of America (two short early novels of Acker’s that were recently rediscovered and just now published) are an interesting window onto the career of one of 20th-century America’s most brazen female novelists. Though perhaps novelist is not quite the right term. To quote the author in Rip-off Red, Girl Detective: “Narratives are purely for shit. Here’s the information go fuck yourself.” Whew.

Stylistically, Acker, who died in 1997, is often compared to William S. Burroughs, owing to both her roots in New York City’s writing scene and her insistence on pushing the boundaries of, and redefining, form. Sometimes, she was entirely successful in this endeavor. To this end, the draw of Essential Acker, in particular, lies in its career-spanning chronology. Over the course of nearly 30 years, as Acker became more adept at defining her own experiments, the reading experience became clearer, more digestible.

Her themes remained surprisingly consistent. Acker’s heroines and heroes are sexual creatures, hopelessly indulgent in the physical realm, yet they never seem to cave in to hopelessness or self-pity. It seems that the author’s personal politics, those of a self-empowered, book-hoarding outlaw who at different points in life worked as both a 42nd Street sex-show performer and a college professor, were solidified early on. Herein lies Acker’s most powerful exploration: Through her writing, she continually focused on creating a reality in which one could exist comfortably in the male and female realms simultaneously. Her characters run through her meandering prose with the battle cry “[A] (wo)man wants to control his/her life,” as crystallized in The Burning Bombing of America.

The trouble with Acker’s work is that it’s difficult to discern the boundaries between autobiography, fiction, metafiction, and even plagiarism. This last, a self-conscious choice on the part of the author, eventually forced her to make a public apology to Harold Robbins over material “pirated” from his work. But Acker’s main obsession was the power of language to change reality, which included borrowing scenes and characters from other works with the goal of redefining them.

It’s easy to get disoriented in Acker’s universe if you’re mired in the conventionalities of literature. Nevertheless, she was ultimately successful in putting the complexities of politics, sex, and identity under the microscope and emerging with something that was uniquely her own. To truly find one’s self, I suppose, one must get lost along the way. — Jennifer Hall

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News News Feature

TRANSLATION: MEMPHIS: Shooting Stars and Social Progress

When I lived in Florida, a small rodent wearing tight red pants told me that if I wished upon a shooting star, my dreams would come true.

I hated that small rodent, as well as the rest of his kingdom, but I sure liked the idea of granted wishes.

Last night, of course, I had my chance to try out his philosophy, as the annual Leonid meteor shower was live in concert, right above our heads. Somehow, don’t ask me, I actually got up at 4 in the morning to witness it.

Now the song says that it makes no difference who you are, and that anything said wisher desires will come to them. As I was too lazy to get up at 3 AM and drive to a locale sans light pollution, I ultimately racked up about 8 wishes. Not too shabby for a half hour’s work, though this must pale in comparison to the gains of those in rural areas who had the potential to see up to 600 desire-granting light bursts per hour.

There’s something to be said, I guess, for life outside the big city.

November’s Leonid shower is the visual display wrought when the earth glides through the astral garbage, as it were, left behind by the Tempel-Tuttle comet.

The collision of these streams of comet residue and our atmosphere creates what we call shooting stars, and those that could be witnessed last night were from trails left behind in 1767 and 1866.

It’s kind of like earth was swimming through a celestial yard sal– if you think about it in a certain way.

I’ve always been a sucker for the stars, and especially for shooting stars. It’s like watching the outside trying to come in; the heavens knocking on our door. Meteors are like passion in motion, the flame symbolizing our curious relationship with the universe beyond.

But enough of my quasi-poetic ramblings.

Let’s get back to those eight little symbols of chance, my reward for overcoming my sleep addiction and bringing my tired ass outside.

Wishes, of course, are simply directed energy.

Unlike the spokesman for the Magic Kingdom, I think that superstition is a means of channeling desire, of meditating on a cause so that the self naturally begins to act in ways that promote whatever said cause might be.

Maybe you think this sounds ridiculous. Creating change, of course, requires not only positive energy, but a whole lot of dedication. Action must follow a thought, if a thought is to become an actuality.

How nice it would be, though, if all of Memphis could have stood outside last night and ruminated on fixing our stalled school system, or on creating a positive way in which we might eliminate the vast problem we have with violent crime.

If a thought can change behavior, then maybe some collective thinking could help this city figure out a few of its major problems, with or without the stars.

But I don’t know–perhaps we could use the help…

Categories
News News Feature

TRANSLATION: MEMPHIS: Hearts of Stone

What is the sound of one hand clapping?

Silence…the hint of applause without any sonic repercussions?

To hear it told by some, this would be the sound of a typical Memphis crowd at a music event here in the home of Rock and the Blues.

It seems that we have developed something of a reputation in the music world as having some of the toughest audiences in the country. Which beckons the question–why? And furthermore, how, what with the vast musical heritage of our city?

Herein, though, I suspect we might find our answer.

Having lived in and around several major metropolitan areas, including Philadelphia, New York City, and Orlando, I have never seen a place where beats and measures seem so deeply ingrained into the fabric of life as in Memphis. Bars are everywhere, from the gussied up tourist spots to the down home dives that define the two extremes.

And in every single one there’s music, music, music.

Sounds good so far. Well, most of the time, depending upon where you are…

With the proliferation of places to play, there are more than a few musicians milling about, as would be expected. In fact, whether in a band or not, it seems that damn near everybody in this city is a musician on some level.

And this is precisely what makes our crowds so tough.

On one level, it’s about competition. In a city with more bands than you could shake your proverbial drum stick at, the audiences are bound to be composed largely of other bands. This translates in some cases to a participatory black-hole, where said “other” musicians don’t want to make too much of a fuss over any band but their own.

I’m going to venture to say, though, that this is less prevalent than a more positive possibility.

Could it be that the reason our crowds don’t seem as responsive as those in other cities is that in many cases we’re watching not so much as fans, but as fellow musicians?

Meaning that while we’re not running around in circles and shouting until our throats run dry, there are nevertheless many of us who are quietly analyzing the performances of others from the standpoint of craft, not sociability. And we might even be enjoying it!

I mean, this is Memphis. If there is a city that’s had a chance to get over the stardust that glitters around musicians as they are portrayed in popular culture, I’d say that we’d be it.

We’re used to musicians being good. In fact, we expect it.

And yes, it would be polite, I suppose, for our appreciation to be more vocal.

It’s hard to maintain the idea of “rock stars” being larger than life, though, when so many have wandered up and down our streets and in and out of our bars. Many of them, of course, have been locals themselves.

Humbling though it may be, the stars are people too, here in the river city. So if and when we don’t shout, be heartened. If we’re not screaming, that means we might actually be listening.

READER REACTION

hey, i liked your article on the sound of one hand

clapping. being a local musician I think you have done

a pretty good job at explaining this phenomenon! In

memphis there are simply a lot of very talented

musicians (and artists in general), and a lot of

venues. You can pretty much go anywhere on any given

day of the week and hear a great band. This probably

has more of an impact on attendance than ‘people just

not caring’ enough or cut throat competition among

bands; most musicians I know in bands are relatively

supportive of one another. I couldn’t swing a cat by

the tail (not that I would…my cats wouldn’t tolerate

it) without hitting an extremely talented artist in

this town. But it is nice when people show up at gigs!

by the way, my band (Thingamajig*) plays at

reedmeister’s on friday, november 22, 2002…it’d

really help us if you could load about 523 of your

closest friends into a car, and come on down! ha ha

ha…

thanks again for the article, it was well reasoned

chris leek

thingtone.com

Categories
Opinion Viewpoint

TRANSLATION: MEMPHIS: Looking at the Lottery

When I was a kid, back in New Jersey, I was always entranced by the lottery.

No, I didn’t gamble. In fact, I can count on one hand the number of times that I’ve tossed my money into the winds of chance, hope, and government sponsored “luck.”

But there was something about the way those numbered balls floated above their fans. Vanna-esque women, with a swoop of the hand, would press a button and voila! Suddenly the fated numbers of pick-3, 5, or 6 would be determined, and people all across the state would look hard at their tickets, ecstatic or more likely, chagrined.

How fast the golden ticket can become tarnished.

For me, though, it was all about watching how something completely random can create value. Floating numbers in the cosmos of chance that land and become something much more concrete.

The opportunity to win or lose.

It is with those images in mind that I have observed the amazing controversy over the proposed legalization of a lottery in Tennessee.

I’m not going to voice my opinion one way or the other, largely because I’m somewhat undecided on the issue, and also because I have no vested interest in attempting to sway you one way or the other.

However, I would like to comment on the structure of the debate as I’ve seen it go on around me for the last several weeks.

One of the major complaints that many disenfranchised voters express about the candidate races is that they are presented with little, if any, concrete information in. In exchange, they are presented with a lot of mudslinging and he said, she said bickering.

When personalities are involved, I suppose that’s inevitable.

But when it comes to a decision on the lottery issue, it seems to me that a bit more depth would be appropriate, pro or con.

On the one hand we’ve seen the largely church-driven opposition, decrying the lottery on the basis of its immorality. On the other hand we have the pro-lottery advocates, led by Senator Steve Cohen, who penned the debated amendment to the Tennessee Constitution that would make the lottery a possibility.

At heart, there are some concrete peripheral issues that should have made this debate both lively and thought provoking.

As far as I have seen this has not happened.

While the faith-based contention that God would not vote for a lottery is interesting, and certainly valid for those who follow the particular God being referenced, it isn’t enough in a free society to justify the stance that the lottery would be wrong for everybody.

Similarly, Cohen’s repeated retort that to not support the lottery is “crazy” lacks a bit in the depth of argument department. To be completely honest, I also find that language to be a little bit irresponsible.

What we’ve ended up with here is a public debate of “God says no,” versus “you’re crazy not to say yes,” which has left the voter with less time to chew on the actual implications of voting no or yes, and more time to ponder their faith or sanity. I don’t expect everybody to agree with me here, but both considerations sort of miss the point.

How about analyzing whether we have any good alternatives to acquiring the funding for education that the lottery might provide? Or, alternately, why not spend one’s debate time considering the economic status of the proposed lottery’s players, and the impact that it might have upon them?

Both of these points have been raised at one point or another, but it seems that too much of the public dialogue on the matter has been a bit lacking in depth.

For those of you who are reading this on Wednesday, the debate has already been settled, at least for now

Let’s hope, though, that the acquisition of the information used to make that choice was not, itself, a game of chance.

Categories
Opinion Viewpoint

TRANSLATION: MEMPHIS:Confessions of an Honorary ‘Arkie’

I have a small confession to make. Before I moved to Memphis, I don’t think I believed that Arkansas actually existed.

Perhaps this sounds silly, and of course it’s a mild exaggeration, but the “natural wonder” was always a strange concept to me–something I knew little, if anything, about.

And then there was Wal-Mart. The horrors of I-40 and I-55 in the land of the monster rig truck stop. Rumors of gypsy girls that wandered the state’s less traveled byways. A reported preponderance of circus folk.

This, I heard, was not Arkansas, or at least not the real Arkansas.

But I lived with my ignorance up until this past weekend, when I was introduced to the state in all its colorful splendor.

Tagging along with a friend who was traveling to Newton County, I found that the journey revealed more and more of the state’s beauty with each passing mile.

For there, in the Western region of the state, I saw fall like I remember it when I was a child.

Blazing oranges, hellfire reds and purples come to life along the rolling hills of the Ozarks. Crisp, clean air. And the most beautiful skyscape imaginable. I had forgotten, I think, that there are so many stars in those heavens of ours.

The trip was made for a wedding scheduled for Saturday in Ben Hur, which is less a town than a region with a church and a few cabins. But by God, it was beautiful. As to why the town is called Ben Hur, I couldn’t find the answer. One person commented that perhaps it’s because the founder of the area proclaimed, “I been ‘her,” but don’t quote me on that one.

That, however, raises a strange similarity between Arkansas and New Jersey that I had never before considered. In Jersey, of course, there are thousands of stereotypes centered around the supposed mafia culture that people think cloaks the entire state in drama and danger.

Then there’s the bad first impression factor, courtesy of Newark airport. Oh the illustrious backdrop of industrial refineries.

If you’ve been to Jersey, though, you know there is a whole lot more to it. Even beauty, gasp, gasp!

The same goes for the poor impression that I formerly held based on the introduction to the state via the West Memphis truck stop.

So we in Jersey have the Tony Soprano stereotype, vis a vis a hillbilly stereotype that Arkansans are faced with. And sure, there are hit men in Jersey, and I’m sure there’s a hillbilly or two in our Western neighbor.

However, that only skims the surface of either state, and the parallel that I discovered involves a certain self-humor that is forged in response to the assumption that these things are the only prevalent elements of culture to be found in either. Obviously, this just isn’t true. Furthermore, there’s nothing wrong with the people who fit those characterizations anyway.

Aside from the illegality factor for my home state’s mafiosos. But anyhow…

As we neared the region, I was reminded of the hills of San Francisco. Meaning we were ass deep in fog. Somehow, though, it only made the ascent more awe inspiring. And what did I find there?

Aside from the aforementioned autumnal wonder, I encountered some of the friendliest people that I have ever met in my life.

Following the wedding, the bride’s family hosted on the most involved Halloween party that I have ever seen, complete with a hayride down a dirt road to a “spook house,” lovingly and elaborately created on an abandoned property.

But the food! We’re talking smoked meats, casseroles and side dishes of every kind, and a frightening drink called “grunch,” which involved a fair amount of grain alcohol.

That was dangerous, and damn good.

I also had the opportunity to wander around those fascinating cabins, to meet a man who used to play with Jerry Lee and Willy back in the day, and to talk to some refreshingly laid back people who made me feel welcome from the moment of my arrival.

By the end, I was so caught up in the euphoria of the place that I was ready to drop everything and move there.

But the best part?

Perhaps it was a measure of solidarity, but I don’t think a single person responded with “JOISEY,” when I told them where I was from.

Now those are some great people!