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Food & Wine Food & Drink

New ownership at Three Angels Diner and Raffe’s Deli.

New management is risky business. Just ask Louis XVI. When he was crowned king of France in 1774, the country had been ruled by guys like him — fat guys with rosy cheeks and beautiful blond wigs —for more than 1,000 years. Then the National Assembly came along, and — it was the darnedest thing — people’s heads started coming loose from their bodies! Poor King Louis was among those whose head was misplaced.

Change can also be good. Case in point: Three Angels Diner. Jason and Rebecca Severs, the husband-and-wife team behind Bari Ristorante in Overton Square, did a culinary 180 when they opened this restaurant four years ago in the Broad Avenue Arts District. They chose the diner format for its flexible menu with dishes agreeable to both parents and kids and for its late-night hours to serve restaurant workers, artists, and musicians. Since then, it has consistently won acclaim, including being featured on Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives with Guy Fieri.

Justin Fox Burks

Amy and Julio Zuniga of Three Angels Diner

Now Three Angels is under new management. In June, the Severses sold it to Rebecca’s sister and her husband, Amy and Julio Zuniga. Which begs the question: Can the new owners maintain the reputation for quality and consistency established by their predecessors?

The preliminary signs are good. On a recent Tuesday, the Carrot Ginger Soup ($3.50) was spot-on: rich and creamy with just the right amount of gingery tang. It neatly complemented the Second Angel Salad ($8), which combines grilled Portobello mushrooms, roasted red peppers, and goat cheese over romaine, drizzled with lemon vinaigrette.

On the whole, the dishes were like the restaurant itself — outside: minimal and stark-looking; inside: surprisingly tasty. And that’s the idea, says chef Julio. He says he wants to steer Three Angels away from a “diner” aesthetic and more in the direction of a tapas and wine bar.

The Zunigas have opened a brand-new patio, and they plan to start serving breakfast soon. They’ve also renovated the menu. They’re keeping customer favorites like the Colossus Burger ($9), a veritable mountain of ground beef, bacon, gouda, fried onions, and slaw. But they’re adding lighter fare like the Angel Wraps ($4), crisp lettuce wraps full of panko-crusted beef and Korean slaw with ponzu sauce.

It’s a revolution worth watching.

 

Growing up in Chickasaw Gardens, my friend Dan and I used to walk to Raffe’s Deli, just down the street from Poplar Plaza. The reason was simple: They had Bomb Pops. You remember those red, white, and blue popsicles that tasted like cherry, lime, and blueberry? And melted into sticky, multicolored sludge on the back of your hand?

Back then, Raffe’s was a bit of a dive, but these days a new wind is blowing at Raffe’s. On May 1st, it was bought by Sean Feizkhah, who says he plans to transform it into a proper restaurant and beer market.

Just two months later, the place is hardly recognizable. For starters, Feizkhah has torn out the chunky wooden bar and the heavy curtains. The floors have also been redone. The result is a light, airy space where you might actually want to…oh, I don’t know, eat.

Feizkhah says that over the next few months, he plans to continue his overhaul, which will include adding a growler station and expanding the menu to include Persian and Turkish fare. In the meantime, Raffe’s continues to serve its signature Greek food.

Wanna make an afternoon of it? Buy a six-pack of Tiny Bomb Pilsner ($8.99) sourced from Memphis’ own Wiseacre Brewery. Pair it with a Syrian Gyro ($6.50), a flatbread sandwich made with roast lamb and tangy Syrian tabbouleh. All right, it’s no Bomb Pop; but then again, we’re not 12 any more.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Now Open on South Main: Café Pontotoc

Cherie Lamb and Cady Smith

  • Cherie Lamb (front) and Cady Smith

If you walk down South Main, you may notice a new, striped awning in front of the old Corked Carrot space. Hm, you might think. I don’t remember hearing anything about a new restaurant there.

Chances are, you didn’t. About a month ago, with exactly zero fanfare, owners Milton and Cherie Lamb opened Café Pontotoc, a wine bar with a growing menu of small plates. Despite the quiet opening, it’s worth stopping by. Or at least, Meg Gavin thinks so.

“It’s great for a girls’ night out,” said Gavin. “I mean, they have wine on tap, what could be better than that?”

On a recent Thursday night, Gavin was celebrating her 29th birthday with about 12 of her friends. The women said they planned to see Steel Magnolias at the Orpheum, followed by a night out on the town. But first they were enjoying some 2013 Acrobat Rosé of Pinot Noir and a light supper at Café Pontotoc.

“There really aren’t a lot of places like this in Memphis,” said McRae Sutter, age 28. “Where it’s not like, you know, BEER. A place where you can sit and have a glass of wine and a good conversation.”

The steak tacos ($7 for two) were beautifully seasoned, wrapped in local corn tortillas with a zesty pico de gallo. And the Vietnamese spring rolls ($8) were refreshingly crisp, served with both hoisin sauce and chili garlic sauce.

Owner Milton Lamb is the first to admit that his menu is a little eclectic. But he says that’s not a bad thing—especially when nothing on the menu costs more than $9.

“I guess I would just say try the food,” Lamb says. “We picked these flavors because we think they go well together, so I’ll just let the food speak for itself.”

“Life is short, you know?” adds co-owner Cherie Lamb. “And you’ve got to take chances. So this is the chance we’re taking.”

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Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Now Open: the new Jack Binion’s Steakhouse

Joelle_Being_Flirty.jpg

I set out for the Horseshoe Casino in Tunica, Mississippi. Come on, come on, I thought, blowing on a pair of red, translucent dice. Daddy needs to pay off his college loans.

But on this particular night, it wasn’t just the craps table that was calling me. Wednesday marked the grand re-opening of Jack Binion’s Steakhouse inside the Horseshoe, which has just completed about $10 million of renovations.

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(And about time, too: before the remodel, Binion’s was a bit of a cave, an old-timey place where the heavy décor matched the heavy cuisine. Was there really a thick cloud of cigar smoke, or am I just imagining that?)

Anyway. Forget what you know. Executed in deep red, the new Binion’s is a breath of fresh air, a wide-open space that balances big-city cool with a certain Southern charm. The portions are lavish, and the staff are friendly and professional.

The changes are most evident in the lounge. Over the course of the evening, I heard several people say that it has a distinctly Vegas vibe, and I have to agree. This is the kind of chill, sophisticated space that’s hard to find in Memphis, let alone Tunica.

I especially liked the bar itself, executed in chunky slabs of translucent onyx. Lit from below, they glow molten yellow like the Sankara Stones from Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom. Honestly, the pictures don’t do it justice.

Because this was a media event, I was handed a menu and given carte blanche. Order what you want! said the cheerful staff. And oh by the way, don’t forget about cocktails and hors d’oeuvres. And I thought, you know, life’s really not that bad after all.

Before wading into the appetizers, I made sure I was sufficiently primed to enjoy the experience with a Knob Creek Manhattan. All right, yes, there are loads of fancy cocktails on the menu, but you know what? Bah humbug. I’ll have the bourbon.

Feeling dandy, I moved right on to the food. And let me just say, executive chef Bruce Ford knows what he’s doing. Over the course of the night, I didn’t take one bite that wasn’t carefully thought-out and well-executed. Ford has also introduced a number of lighter menu items—fish, vegetables, small plates—that are designed to help Binion’s appeal to a wider audience. I’ll just quickly fire off a few favorites.

I recommend starting with with the chipotle grilled shrimp ($14). It’s definitely got some bite to it, but it’s beautifully balanced by the sweet tang of the mango salsa.

From there, move on to the heirloom tomato salad ($10). No joke, this was maybe my favorite thing on the menu. It comes with Maytag blue cheese, a roasted garlic vinaigrette, and ribbons of shaved cucumber—but the real showstoppers are the tomatoes themselves, big honking things from Ripley, TN.

For a main, I say stick with steak. There’s lots of wonderful fish on the menu, but come on—aren’t you craving some red meat this evening? I had the 14 oz. prime New York strip steak ($48), which was so tender that you probably wouldn’t need a knife to cut it. Pair that with the decadently cheesy scalloped potato gratin ($9), and you’re good to go.

After dinner, it was time to make some money. Now on my third (third?) Knob Creek manhattan, I felt pretty confident in my ability to pay off—or at least make a sizable dent in—the outstanding balance on my college loans. So I screwed my courage to the sticking place and stumbled out onto the floor of the Horseshoe.

Forty dollars later, it was time to call it a night. Media event or no, the Horseshoe Casino is not in the business of subsidizing the minor gambling habits of impoverished freelance writers. Oh well, I thought. I drifted upstairs to my hotel room and crawled into bed, while visions of Ripley tomatoes danced in my head.

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Categories
Cover Feature News

Labor of Love

On a Thursday morning in early May, Amy Stewart-Banbury squeezes a dollop of ultrasound gel onto Brandi Hardin’s belly. Then she settles a plastic microphone in the goop and starts gingerly moving it around. Brandi is pregnant, and Stewart-Banbury is using a special device called a fetal doppler to listen to the baby’s heartbeat.

At first, the only sound is the steady roar of the arteries in Brandi’s uterus. Stewart-Banbury concentrates and moves the microphone a little lower. Then, suddenly, there it is, a rhythmic, underwater whooshing noise: ba-bow ba-bow ba-bow. When she hears it, Brandi’s face lights up.

“Hey, baby,” she says, looking down at the bump in her belly. “Hey, sweetie!”

The sound is Laluna March Hardin. At 34 weeks in utero, she weighs 4.5 lbs. — about the same as a cantaloupe — and her fingernails will have just grown out to the ends of her tiny fingers.

Laluna is special for a number of reasons, not the least of which is that her parents, Brandi and Scott, have decided to give birth at home. For the past six months, they’ve been preparing for that moment — doing things like labs and ultrasounds, consultations and home visits — with Stewart-Banbury, their midwife.

“I figure, you know, birth is a part of life,” says Brandi, 38. “It was something I wanted to experience without being drugged out or scared.”

Brandi owns Esthetiques, a skin spa on Brookhaven Circle. She says Laluna was conceived on a trip to New York, where Brandi was administering special skin treatments to runway models as a part of New York Fashion Week.

“So clearly,” she enthuses, “Laluna is going to be a girly girl.”

Scott Hardin, 34, is a record producer. He and Brandi met while he was taking out the trash at his old job, just down the street from Esthetiques. He says he was initially skeptical about the whole midwifery thing.

“I didn’t say no,” recalls Scott. “But like a lot of people around here, I think I had some questions about it.”

Of the more than 60,000 babies born in Shelby County this year, fewer than 150 will be born at home with a midwife instead of in a hospital. Families choose home birth for any number of reasons including the possibilty of fewer medical interventions — things such as epidural analgesia and caesarean sections.

The World Health Organization states that in a healthy population, C-section rates should never exceed 14 percent. In 2012, the U.S. rate was 32.8 percent. That’s worrisome, because recent research has shown that, perhaps due to not being exposed to helpful bacteria found in the mother’s vagina, babies born by C-section are more likely to experience health problems such as allergies and obesity later in life.

Brandi has a more personal reason for wanting to have her baby at home. Since the age of 35, she has struggled with catamenial epilepsy, a seizure disorder linked to her hormones. It causes her blood pressure to drop to abnormally low levels, resulting in grand mal or localized seizures.

“If I hadn’t had this experience,” explains Brandi, “I don’t think I would be trying for a home birth. But now I know what it’s like to be pumped full of medications in a hospital, and I just don’t want that for my baby.”

“To the doctors,” she continues, “I was just a patient, a chart, a number. But with Amy, it’s different. To her I am a person.”

Typically, the risk factors associated with Brandi’s condition would have made her ineligible for a home birth, but Stewart-Banbury and Brandi’s primary care doctor began collaborating early on in the pregnancy. Together they determined that if Brandi could keep her blood pressure within certain healthy limits, then she could attempt to give birth at home.

“As a midwife,” says Stewart-Banbury, “my first priority is not a home birth; it’s a safe birth. So if I see that something isn’t going right, I won’t hesitate to transfer to a hospital.”

Today, 99 out of every 100 American babies are born in a hospital — but it wasn’t always that way. For most of the country’s history, home birth was the norm. In 1900, virtually all American babies were born at home, and half of them were assisted by midwives.

Then medical science came along and claimed childbirth for itself. Beginning in the early 1900s, doctors — the vast majority of whom were men — portrayed midwives as dirty, illiterate, and ignorant, and persuaded women that birth was a medical procedure best handled by physicians in the context of a hospital.

By 1940, the percentage of women opting for out-of-hospital births had dropped to 44 percent. By 1960, it had dropped to 1 percent, where it has remained ever since. In some states, home-birth midwifery is actually illegal.

But lately the practice has been experiencing a bit of a comeback. According to data from the Centers for Disease Control, the number of home births increased by 29 percent between 2004 and 2009, the last year for which detailed data is available. Each year in the U.S. about 30,000 babies are born at home.

Stewart-Banbury, now 39, was born into a traditional, Catholic family at Baptist Memorial Hospital in East Memphis. She says she first heard about the modern practice of midwifery in 1995 from her then-boyfriend, Scott.

“Scott and I were on one of our very first dates,” Stewart-Banbury remembers. “We were driving down Poplar in his Volkswagen van, and all of a sudden he just turns to me and says, ‘When my woman has a baby, she’ll be using a midwife.'”

“I remember thinking,” she continues, “that this guy was the biggest asshole I’d ever met. One, I couldn’t believe he would refer to her as ‘his woman.’ Two, I couldn’t believe he would presume to dictate where and how she would have her baby.”

Four years later, they were married.

That day also marked the beginning of Stewart-Banbury’s slow march toward midwifery. She says that after her conversation with Scott, she couldn’t get the idea out of her head. Her fascination was only reinforced by listening to stories of her friends’ births.

“I would go visit them,” Stewart-Banbury recalls, “and they would say things like, ‘It was horrible. I was so scared. I’ve never been so embarrassed in my life.’ And I remember thinking, this is sad. My friends should have been happy to be having a baby, but instead they were frightened and humiliated.”

“Meanwhile,” she continues, “Scott’s friends were having their babies at home. We would bring them dinner, and these women would say things like, ‘This is the best thing that has ever happened to me. It was so much fun! If I could do it again tomorrow, I would.'”

At the time, there was just one midwifery service in Memphis. Stewart-Banbury apprenticed there in 1999; five years later she was licensed as a midwife by the state of Tennessee. In the meantime, she had two children of her own, both born at home.

Today, Stewart-Banbury is a Certified Professional Midwife (CPM), meaning she has completed a three-year course of study, along with an apprenticeship, and has passed a certification test given by the North American Registry of Midwives. Since starting her own practice in 2004, she has attended 296 home births, at the rate of about 30 per year. She says her busiest months are June and July.

“I think the main difference between home birth and hospital birth,” says Stewart-Banbury, “is the absence of fear. When women are at home, they are not afraid. You are a guest in their house, and they have supreme authority.”

Is it safe to have your baby at home? That depends on whom you ask. There are a lot of numbers out there, and unsurprisingly, emotions tend to run high around this issue.

The data most often cited by opponents of home birth comes from what’s become known as the Wax paper, published in 2010 in The American Journal of Obstetrics and Gynecology. The paper — a meta-analysis of 12 studies — found that babies born at home were about twice as likely as those born in hospitals to die in their first 28 days of life. Home birth, the paper suggests, results in a neonatal death rate of about 2 per thousand, whereas the rate for hospitals is just 0.9 per thousand.

But many in the medical community have criticized the Wax paper for what they say is a faulty statistical methodology. Critics argue that there was no logical basis for which studies were included in — and which excluded from — the paper’s meta-analysis. They also contend that some of the studies cited include unplanned as well as planned home births, rendering the paper’s conclusions mostly meaningless.

Proponents of home birth cite studies from the World Health Organization and the Journal of Midwifery and Women’s Health, both of which find home births to be at least as safe — and in some cases, safer — than hospital births. They also tout benefits like higher birth weights and better APGAR scores.

What becomes clear, as one wades through the literature on this issue, is that more and better research is needed. What’s also clear is that, at least for now, both hospital and home births result in a small number of infant deaths. It’s a grim fact that Stewart-Banbury takes very seriously.

“Unfortunately,” says Stewart-Banbury, “I can’t guarantee a safe birth. Even when babies are born in the hospital, hospitals can’t guarantee a safe birth. What I can do is give the assurance that I will listen to your baby, and I will use all the tools and all the experience I have to make your birth as safe as possible.”

I have to confess that going into this story, I was pretty naïve about childbirth. As a 29-year-old single man, it just wasn’t really on my radar. To give you some idea, when I learned the baby’s due date, I marked it in my planner like this: “June 10th – baby born.”

Apparently Laluna didn’t get the memo. She nearly joined us at the end of May, when Brandi suddenly started having contractions — a practice run, as it turned out. June 10th came and went.

Brandi and Scott felt sure that Laluna, whose name means “the moon,” would make her debut on Friday the 13th, when the moon was full — but no dice. Laluna, they realized, was doing this thing on her own schedule.

When I finally got the call, it was 8 a.m. on June 17th.

“John, I think you should come on over,” Stewart-Banbury said. “This baby is definitely coming today. She might even be here before lunch.”

Previously, Stewart-Banbury had warned me that when this call came, I should drop what I was doing and get in the car. Brandi, she explained, has been doing pilates for most of her adult life, and women who do pilates tend to shoot their babies out like BBs.

I didn’t need to be told twice. When I got to the house, things were pretty far along. The middle of the Hardins’ living room was now taken up with an inflatable birthing tub. At five feet in diameter, it was like a kiddie pool with a sterile plastic lining.

In the middle of the tub, in about two feet of warm water, was Brandi. She’d been having contractions since midnight, and at that point they were coming four minutes apart. Just as I walked in, a contraction hit, and Brandi made a sound like a horse’s whinny.

“All right,” Stewart-Banbury said, “that was good, but next time I want you to make a lower sound. When you get your voice up high, it pulls the baby back up, and we don’t want that.”

Stewart-Banbury had brought along her two apprentices. Also in the room were me, the photographer, and Scott Hardin, who crouched alongside the tub and held Brandi’s hand. The two of them didn’t say much, but it was clear from the way Brandi held on that she was getting a lot of strength through that hand.

Over the next hour, we waited while Laluna descended through Brandi’s pelvis. Stewart-Banbury checked Brandi’s blood pressure, which looked good: 110/76. So did Laluna’s heartbeat. Meanwhile Brooke Prudhomme, one of the apprentices, applied pressure to Brandi’s lower back to ease her pain, which was considerable. Then it was time to push.

“I can’t do it,” said Brandi, clenching her teeth.

“Yes you can,” answered Stewart-Banbury, her voice firm and reassuring. “You are so much stronger than you think you are.”

Brandi was kneeling in the water, with her elbows on the side of the tub. Previously she had been making a lot of noise, but now the room became strangely quiet. Brandi hissed and grunted while Stewart-Banbury quietly coached her.

And then, all of a sudden, there was a baby. It happened so fast, it hardly seemed real. One moment there were seven people in the room — the next, eight. Prudhomme pulled the pale infant out of the water and put her in Brandi’s arms.

“Hey baby,” Brandi gasped, ecstatic and exhausted, “What do you think? It’s a lot brighter out here, huh?”

Laluna March Hardin was born at 9:52 a.m. on Tuesday, June 17th. She measured 18 inches long and weighed 6 lbs. 10 oz. I’m no baby expert, but Laluna is an exceptionally beautiful baby, with a distinguished chin and an important-looking nose.

Over the next few minutes, Stewart-Banbury and her apprentices cleaned and examined Laluna, checking for good bowel sounds and the Babinski reflex. Everything looked good. Within 20 minutes of being born, Laluna was clean and dry, safe and warm, resting with her parents in their own bed — in their own home.

“I don’t even know how I feel right now,” confessed Scott, looking down at the baby, “It’s like, wow, you know? I guess I’m still not used to her being here.”

Stewart-Banbury is the first to admit that home birth isn’t for everyone. Women with certain risk factors — things like diabetes and thyroid disease — should almost certainly give birth in a hospital. The same applies to women who are fearful of childbirth, or who simply would feel more comfortable in a clinical environment.

But for those women for whom it is safe and who want it, Stewart-Banbury says home birth can be a truly life-changing experience.

“If you can push a baby out at home,” she says, “you can do anything. And I love helping women realize that. I love helping them empower themselves.”

Brandi and Scott Hardin seem to agree. When I visited them a few days after the birth, they were spending some quiet time with Laluna, who was napping in an adorable pineapple onesie. Given the chance, I ask, would they have done anything differently?

They don’t even have to think about it. They both have the same answer — a single word: “no.”

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Q&A with Aryen Moore-Alston

Aryen Moore-Alston

Think fast. You’re standing in front of a dangerously watery mushroom sauce, and you’ve got exactly 90 seconds to save it. To make matters worse, you’re on TV, and food legend Alton Brown is standing just across the kitchen counter.

Are you terrified? Well, Aryen Moore-Alston isn’t. When she was faced with that exact situation two weeks ago, she didn’t bat an eye. “All right,” says Moore-Alston, “I wanna use the onions that Reuben put some flour on, and we’re gonna put them in the pan with the mushrooms.”

Boom. The sauce thickens, and the day is saved. Even Brown is impressed. “Wow,” he says, smiling, “how extraordinarily clever of you.”

Moore-Alston is a finalist on the 10th season of Food Network Star, a reality show in which 12 chefs compete to get their own series on Food Network. Although she doesn’t have the same pedigree as some of the other contestants — Moore-Alston is self-taught and has never cooked in a restaurant — she has shown herself to be a capable chef and a wily competitor.

When she’s not on TV, Moore-Alston lives with her boyfriend and young daughter in East Memphis, where she owns a catering company. The Flyer recently caught up with Moore-Alston to talk about growing up in Italy, working with Giada De Laurentiis, and making dessert from aloe vera gel.

Flyer: So you grew up in Naples. What was that like? Moore-Alston: Oh my gosh! It was amazing. My father was a musician for the Navy, and my mother was an actress and a recording artist. She ended up having some TV shows on Italian public access TV. I went to an Italian school at the age of two, but then I couldn’t really speak English very well, so they switched me to an American school.

How did you get to Memphis?

After my father died, my mother was looking for a place for us to live, and she had met my father here. After he passed away, I think she was looking for that connection with him, and Memphis is where she found it.

How did you start cooking?

My dad is the one who taught me. When he was cooking, I’d sit on a stool and ask him questions. That’s when I got daddy-daughter time. After he passed away, when I stepped into the kitchen, I felt like I was stepping into his shoes. I wanted to understand who my father was, and by cooking, I got to see the love that he gave us.

Let’s say you win this thing and get your own show. What’s it gonna be like?

I love international cuisine, and I want to show people how easy it is to make it at home. Like, you can go to your neighborhood Vietnamese store or Indian market, pick up a cactus leaf, and do something amazing with it! Or buy aloe vera gel and use it to make a delicious dessert.

Which of the Food Network mentors do you most enjoy working with?

Well, obviously, Giada is a woman, and I think there are certain things about this industry that she’s trying to prepare us for, the women. She’s like, “Look, it’s gonna be hard, but you have to look great, you have to speak well. If you’re gonna come on this network, you have to match me.” And I really respond to that. It makes me want to work hard, until one day I’m an equal with Giada.

What areas do you need to work on?

Because I’m self-taught, there are some things that I just don’t know. Things that you would learn in culinary school, I just don’t have that. So that’s what I need to do, is go back and learn some of the basics. It’s like learning how to read, you first need to know the alphabet. I sort of skipped that!

In episodes one and two, the mentors said your food was a little bland. How do you respond to that?

It’s interesting, because usually, my food is not bland! I don’t think I would have gotten on the show if my food were bland. Maybe at first I was holding back; I think I was afraid of bringing too much to the table. But now that’s all I’m bringing — flavor.

If you were trying to give the mentors a taste of Memphis, what would you cook them?

Oh! That’s a good one. I think I might make a pulled pork barbecue slider with a pickled onion cole slaw and a fried green tomato. Then I’d serve it on an onion bun. That way I’d be giving them something different, but it’d still be very Memphis.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Q&A With Bestselling Author and Locavore Guru Michael Pollan

If you’ve heard of farm-to-table, you’ve heard of Michael Pollan. Along with Alice Waters, he practically invented the movement. In books like The Omnivore’s Dilemma and In Defense of Food, Pollan showed readers the horrors of industrial food systems and advocated a return to traditional, local, and sustainable fare.

Like many aspiring locavores, I read and I cheered. But Pollan was hiding something from his fellow foodies. He didn’t really know how to cook. In his own words: “It’s not like I was a total novice. I mostly grilled. I would marinate expensive filets and throw them on the grill.”

In Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation, Pollan’s new book, the author finally learns to make his own supper. In the process, he takes readers on a mouthwatering journey across the United States, learning to barbecue a whole hog in North Carolina and make sauerkraut in California. The Flyer recently caught up with Pollan to chat about microbes, complex carbohydrates, and good, old-fashioned barbecue.

Flyer: Americans spend just 27 minutes per day cooking. How did we get here?

Michael Pollan

Michael Pollan: A lot of reasons. One of them is changing lifestyles. Now you have both men and women working, so you don’t have someone in the home who could be cooking. And rather than develop a new division of labor around cooking, families have invited food corporations into our lives to cook for us. And that’s something the industry has been wanting to do for a long time.

Is the way we eat now making us sick?

Oh, absolutely. Four out of the top-10 killers today are chronic diseases linked to the way we eat. We spend about a trillion dollars a year on health-care costs linked to diet. Just an example: We struggle with very high rates of Type 2 diabetes — 8 percent and soaring. So when you hear the words “health-care crisis,” what you should hear is “the Western diet.”

Why is cooking so important?

The short answer is that it’s only by cooking that we can control the amount of sugar, fat, and salt in our diet. We just can’t count on companies to do that in a responsible way. But that’s hardly doing it justice. There’s the intellectual stimulation, the sensory stimulation. The social dimension. The family meal correlates with so many positive markers: not just nutritional health, but things like success at school and drug use.

All right, I’m coming to dinner. What are you cooking?

Ha. If a guest were coming over? I’d buy a chicken and brine it. The brine would be a mix of salt, sugar, and spices. And some garlic and lemon peel. Then I’d slow-grill it at about 250 degrees for an hour and 15 minutes. That way the skin would be all crinkly and brown and delicious.

Let’s talk microbes. Why should we embrace things like yeast and bacteria?

What we’ve learned is that there is an ecosystem in your large intestine consisting of trillions of microbes. Mostly bacteria. And these bacteria are key not just to digestion, but to things like your immune system and your mental health. The thing is, you’ve got to feed them! Taking care of that ecosystem turns out to be a very important part of your health.

Wow. That’s kind of gross and kind of awesome. What should we feed them?

The thing is, these microbes don’t actually like the Western diet very much. Most of what Americans eat — things like sugars and fats — are absorbed in the small intestine. But these microbes live farther down, in the large intestine. If you want to make it down there, you’ve got to eat complex carbohydrates: plant fiber in all its various forms. Bananas and oats and onions and nuts and avocados.

Memphis is a barbecue town. Can you offer any tips for backyard barbecuing?

Slow down. Most people cook barbecue too fast. Great barbecue is cooked very slowly. Part of that is learning how to control the temperature. If you’re using coals, you really have to wait for them to burn down before you put food on. Then you can add one or two coals every now and then. You really want to be close to 200, 250 degrees. If you’re over 300, you’re not barbecuing, you’re grilling.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

On the Scene at the Memphis Greek Festival

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When Odysseus and his crew visited the land of the Lotus-eaters, they encountered a people so completely devoted to their own appetites that they did nothing all day but sit around and feast on the narcotic fruit of the lotus plant. The sailors tried it too, and they almost ended up staying. It was all Odysseus could do to get them back on the boat.

Much the same thing happened yesterday, here in Memphis. I’m speaking, of course, of the Memphis Greek Festival. After landing my vessel at Annunciation Greek Orthodox Church and partaking in the feast, I very nearly foreswore my homeland and stayed. No, they weren’t serving lotus fruit. But I think baklava cheesecake will do just as well.

The festival continues today until 8pm. For me, the food is the main draw—about which, more later. The festival also features live music by Kostas Kastanis and and traditional Greek dancing by the Athenian Dance Troupe. There are bouncy castles and an outdoor marketplace. For those who like a bit of theology with their spanakopita, there are even church tours led by Annunciation’s Father Jim Berends.

(Speaking of spanakopita, did you happen to catch this wonderful article in the Flyer last month? It’s a must-read for anyone who’s serious about Greek food in Memphis.)

Back at the festival, I had a late lunch with Anna Denton (nee Maniatakou). At age 79, with wavy gray hair and a mischievous twinkle in her eye, she’s everybody’s Mediterranean grandma. She’s also one of the women who helped start the Greek Festival back in 1958, and she’s been helping out ever since.

“I’m the one who started doing shish kebabs,” whispered Denton.

At Denton’s recommendation, I tried the lamb shank with tomato sauce over rice. And now, reader, let me recommend it to you. The festival is full of delicious food, but nothing can touch that lamb, tender and smoky and supremely flavorful.

“Americans don’t cook cook lamb enough,” Denton confided. “You have to leave it on until it’s well done. That’s where you find the flavor.”

For dessert, I was served a round robin of sugary delights, eight in all. Of course, I’ve never met a pastry I didn’t like, but my particular favorites were the koulourakia (Easter cookies) and the indokarida (coconut macaroons). I should add that the women of Annunciation Church began preparing these desserts back in January. Because, yes, there’s that much demand.

After lunch, I took a church tour and got a Greek dance lesson from Liz Ramage, who teaches the Athenian Dance Troupe. Then, after a quick spin through the Agora Marketplace, I stopped to catch my breath at the bar tent.

That’s how I met Lee McBee and Troy Fink. They said they had come for the late-night dancing—which was interesting, because when I spoke to them, it was still only 2:30 p.m.

“I’m glad they have a bar,” reflected McBee. “You know? It’s like, thank God.”

“Last year somebody tried to make ouzo jello shots,” added Fink. “It was really foul.”

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Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Greek to Me

There’s comfort food, and then there’s comfort food. For some, it’s a warm bowl of chicken and dumplings. For others, home tastes like a cup of creamy mac and cheese. For me, it’s always been spanakopita: a Greek phyllo pastry stuffed with spinach and feta cheese. When I bite through that flaky crust and arrive at the savory, spinachy center, I have been known to forget my own name. So in preparation for the Memphis Greek Festival at Annunciation Greek Orthodox Church May 9th-10th, I set out to find the best spanakopita in town. Like Ulysses before me, I determined “to strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield.”

For whatever reason, Greek food in Memphis tends to cluster around the intersection of Poplar and Mendenhall. To wit, there is more spanakopita in the shadow of Clark Tower than you’ll find for a hundred miles in any direction.

At Petra Café‘s new location in Sanderlin Centre, fans of Indiana Jones will instantly recognize the wall-sized photograph that presides over this quaint cafe. Petra is the city in present-day Jordan carved into a sandstone canyon where Harrison Ford had to find the Holy Grail and beat the Nazis.

The filling in Petra’s spanakopita ($3.50) is herbed and tangy, with hearty chunks of feta mixed throughout. The crust is golden-brown and flaky.

Petra is also known for its sandwiches. I recommend the Zesty Petra Gyro ($8.99), a satisfying blend of grilled beef and lamb topped with mushrooms, onions, and bell peppers.

Petra Café, 5101 Sanderlin (505-2812)

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Ciao Bella‘s spanakopita ($8) can best be described as “deep-dish” — i.e., more filling, less crust. That appeals to some, but I prefer Ciao Bella’s Fig Prosciutto Flatbread ($20), a delicious sauceless pizza finished with arugula, gorgonzola, and a tangy balsamic drizzle.

FYI, for those who might get a hankering for the pastry while watching the latest blockbuster: Ciao Bella’s spanakopita as well as many of its other dishes are available at the Ridgeway Cinema Grill.

Ciao Bella, 565 Erin (205-2500)

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Justin Fox Burks

Spanakopetakia at Jim’s Place

For my taste, Jim’s Place does it best. Rather than preparing their spanakopita as a pie and serving slices, they serve “spanakopetakia” ($8.50), or spinach puffs. Each bite-sized triangle is individually wrapped in a layered, flaky crust. The filling is delicious, but, really, I can’t say enough about that crust: light and sunny, like a trip to Mykonos. Pair it with the souflima ($17.95), an original recipe that features succulent rotisserie pork on a bed of rice pilaf with tomato sauce.

Jim’s Place, 518 Perkins Ext. (766-2030)

jimsplacememphis.com

Justin Fox Burks

Kwik Chek’s spanakopita

I never would have expected to find spanakopita at Kwik Chek, the converted convenience store on Madison. But there it was, staring up at me from a deli counter sandwiched between racks of potato chips and energy drinks.

Owner Sue Choi is a Korean whose ex-husband is Greek, so the menu is all over the place. Would you like some falafel with your bibimbap? How about a gyro with your pajeon? And yet the spanakopita ($3.99) is tasty. It may not be the best in town, but the crust is admirable, and if there were an award for exceeding expectations, Kwik Chek would win it, hands-down.

Kwik Chek, 2013 Madison (274-9293)

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

On the Scene at the Memphis Zoo’s Annual Wild World of Wine and Beer

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You may have heard some strange noises coming from the zoo last night—and it wasn’t amorous alligators or lustful lemurs. No, last night it was a crowd of dedicated conservationists, each doing her best to save the animals, one drink at a time. That’s right, at the Memphis Zoo’s 16th Annual Wild World of Wine and Beer, attendees could taste 48 wines from around the world, safe in the knowledge that 100% of the proceeds from the event would go toward conservation. In the words of one party-goer: “Drinking is my favorite way to help animals.”

When it comes to outdoor parties in Memphis, April can be dicey. But last night the zoo hit the jackpot. At 7 p.m., when the party got going, the sky was lit up with a gorgeous orange-and-pink sunset. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky, and the temperature hovered in the low 70s—ideal weather for drinking, talking, and dancing.

The event featured beer from three local breweries: Memphis Made, Wiseacre, and High Cotton. But the main attraction was definitely the wine tasting, featuring 48 different wines from around the world. These were organized geographically, with eight tables representing regions like Oregon, Australia, and Argentina. When I spoke to nurse Jutta Siebert, she had just tried a Belle Ambiance Cabernet Sauvignon from California. “It’s very succulent,” she enthused “and not too sweet.”

There was also a silent auction, featuring abstract paintings by both human and animal artists. That’s right, they actually got the giraffes to paint! And sea lions and orangutans. But for my money, the real show-stealers were sublime plant arrangements made by Memphis Zoo horticulturalist Jill Maybry.

Memphis Zoo Conservation Director Andy Kouba said he expected to make between $40,000-$50,000 thousand dollars from the event. “Some of that money,” continued Kouba, “will actually help us reintroduce local endangered species into the wild—animals like the Mississippi Gopher Frog, the Trumpeter Swan, and the Louisiana Pine Snake.”

Live music was provided by the Kathryn Stallins Band, who performed covers of rock classics like “Proud Mary” and “Mustang Sally.” The crowd seemed shy at first, but as the evening wore on, perhaps swayed by the plight of the endangered animals, they lost their inhibitions. The dance floor was crowded and lively until the band stopped playing, at 10 p.m.

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