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Food & Drink Food Reviews

Southern Pantry Author Jennifer Chandler on the Beauty of Canned Tomatoes

Jennifer Chandler’s latest cookbook The Southern Pantry Cookbook: 105 Recipes Already Hiding in Your Kitchen is a handy guide for anyone who’s stood before their fully stocked pantry and thought: What’s for dinner? And it’s particularly good for those who don’t know what it means to have a fully stocked pantry. Chandler offers a list of what every kitchen should have on hand in the pantry as well as the fridge and freezer — goods and produce that lead to such dishes as Tamale Pie, Creamy Vidalia Onion Soup, and Mississippi Mud Brownies. There’s nothing exotic in Chandler’s list — all ingredients are available at your neighborhood Kroger.

We asked Chandler to name what she considers her most essential pantry items. “Chicken stock. Salt and pepper — salt and pepper is underrated,” she says. “And butter. And chocolate, but that’s another story.”

Justin Fox Burks and Amy Lawrence

We also asked her to come up with a list of the most versatile pantry items. Among them are frozen vegetables, ground beef, Creole seasoning, frozen shrimp, and pimentos.

And then there’s canned tomatoes. Chandler says she keeps cans of whole tomatoes and diced tomatoes in her pantry at all times.

“There’s nothing worse than a tomato that has no flavor,” Chandler says. “Tomatoes are good really only two or three months of the year. Canned tomatoes are picked at their peak. I would be lost without them.”

Dishes using canned tomatoes from The Southern Pantry, clockwise from top: Shrimp Creole, Chicken Fricasse, Freezer Veggie Soup, Jambalaya Pasta, Creamy Tomato Soup, Tamale Pie, Frogmore Stew, Lucky Black-Eyed Pea and Collard Green Soup, Grillades

Justin Fox Burks

Shrimp Creole

Shrimp Creole

from The Southern Pantry Cookbook

1 1/2 pounds large shrimp

(16/20 count), peeled and

deveined, thawed if using frozen

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon paprika

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1/2 cup finely diced yellow onion

(1 small onion)

1/2 cup finely diced green bell pepper

(1 small pepper)

1/4 cup thinly sliced celery (1 stalk)

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 can (28-ounce) whole tomatoes

with juice

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1/2 cup chicken stock or water

Kosher salt and freshly ground

black pepper

6 cups cooked white rice, warm

Place the shrimp in a large mixing bowl and toss with cayenne pepper and paprika.

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the oil until a few droplets of water sizzle when carefully sprinkled in the pan. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring occasionally, until the shrimp are lightly browned, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the cooked shrimp to a plate and reserve.

In the same pan over medium-high heat, warm the remaining oil until a few droplets of water sizzle when carefully sprinkled in the pan. Add the onion, bell pepper, and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 1 minute more. Add the whole tomatoes, breaking them up with a spoon or fork. Add the tomato paste and stock. Stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens, about 20 to 25 minutes.

Return the shrimp to the pan and stir to combine. Cook until the shrimp are warmed through, about 2 to 3 more minutes. Adjust seasonings as needed. Serve warm over white rice. Serves 6.

Cooking Tip: I find that canned whole tomatoes melt into a sauce better than canned diced tomatoes. To break them up, I like to cut them with my kitchen scissors while they are still in the can before adding them to the pot.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

A Peek Into Bars’ Lost and Founds

So, apparently, one night or day (who knows?) somebody up and left their shoes at the Buccaneer. Interestingly enough, the shoes abandoned at the Bucc are Bucks, in classic taupe. The owner may have been drunk. Maybe he had flip flops on and was going to change into the Bucks. Maybe he was the one who brought the pillow in and left his bike helmet, too. Justin Fox Burks suggests that the pillow was for a drum set, but I like to imagine something far less logical.

All of this, of course, is mere speculation, gathered from the beery anthropology pit of the bar’s lost and found box, which in this case is a lost and found booth as well as a lost and found closet/office (“cloffice,” we are told).

Justin Fox Burks

Candice Corum at the Buccaneer in the “cloffice”

A couple weeks ago I lost my wallet, and then I found my wallet. Somewhere in between, I called the Blue Monkey where I had lunch and am told they don’t have it. Desperately, I described the wallet, as if mere adjectives will conjure it up. “Oh, honey,” the woman on the phone told me, “all we’ve got are sunglasses and car keys.” This made me laugh because I figured this was true of all lost and found boxes. So I decided to check.

And, yes indeed, there are a lot of glasses (the Bayou has the most stylish) and car keys. (We even had reports of cars “lost” at two places.) Somebody left meds at Alex’s (nothing fun, we checked) and yet another person left a full cosmetics bag. If you can’t find your phone charger or music stand, you might check Murphy’s.

Justin Fox Burks

Benny Carter at Murphy’s

But mostly, it’s clothes — an array of shirts and jackets and sweaters and scarves. There is a swell tie with whales on it at Alex’s. At the Buccaneer, beyond the shoes, we unearth sweaters and jackets and a sweet-looking scarf. At Murphy’s, there’s a cool vintage leather jacket, a North Face jacket, and tons of sweaters and shirts.

It was also at Murphy’s where we witness an amazing reunion. “That’s my umbrella,” a man says. But then he comes over to the pile of lost and found stuff and picks up the umbrella, looks it over, and decides, “That’s not mine.”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

True Grits

Confession: The mushrooms used for this Grits & Eggs dish came from Whole Foods.* Otherwise, the core ingredients for this stick-to-your-bones beauty, created by Justin Fox Burks, is all local. The produce is available at the winter market held each Saturday from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. in the parking lot at Tsunami restaurant. The grits from Delta Grind are sold at a number of locations (see below), and the Jumpin’ Juniper hot sauce is available at Brother Juniper’s.

“It’s a Southern classic — a vegetarian riff on shrimp and grits,” Justin says. “It’s smoky, comforting, and awesome.”

The recipe, which is posted online at the Flyer‘s food blog Hungry Memphis, is not complicated, but it is multi-layered. The mushrooms are smoked, the tomatoes are marinated in champagne vinegar and other ingredients, and the broth is home-made with mushrooms and miso. But Justin notes that this is a dish that can be made as simply or as involved as suits your mood. “We do some form of this dish once a week,” he says. If there’s a time-crunch, he suggests using a good store-bought stock. — Susan Ellis

1 Eggs from Donnell Century Farm

Sold at Miss Cordelia’s and the winter market at Tsunami. Served in dishes at the Brushmark, Muddy’s Bake Shop, Sweet Grass, and Thyme.

2 Grits from Delta Grind

Sold at Café Eclectic, Farmers Market Midtown, Miss Cordelia’s, Muddy’s, Trolley Stop Market. Served in too many restaurants to list here, but including Amerigo, Automatic Slim’s, Grill 83, Interim, Itta Bena, Local Gastropub, and Sole.

3Baby kale from Gracious Gardens

Sold at the winter market and served in dishes at Tsunami.

4Herbs from Millstone Gardens

Sold at Miss Cordelia’s and Superlo and served at numerous restaurants, including Erling Jensen the Restaurant, the Grove Grill, and Paulette’s.

5Tomatoes from Micmak Farms

Sold at Trolley Stop Market and the winter market. Served in dishes at the Trolley Stop Market.

* Shiitake mushrooms grown by Mississippi Natural Products are being sold at the winter market by Van Cheeseman of Flora Farms.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Here Here

Pictured is a beet salad with crispy goat cheese — a dish dreamed up and done up using all local ingredients by Justin Fox Burks. Regular readers of Burks’ thechubbyvegetarian.com know that he doesn’t follow recipes. Instead, he lets the ingredients lead the way. It’s a fitting approach for shoppers at the city’s farmers markets.

For this salad, Burks formed the goat cheese into balls and froze them overnight. He then rolled them in beaten egg and bread crumbs and deep-fried them over medium heat.

The beets were peeled and sautéed in olive oil. The tomatoes were sliced. And the lettuce was topped with a mixed-to-taste dressing of olive oil, honey, and balsamic vinegar.

Why not try it yourself or maybe try to top it? And, if you’re not so inclined, included below is information on where you can get these local ingredients cooked by someone else.

Beets from Flora Farms

Produce sold at the Memphis Botanic Garden Farmers Market and the Memphis Farmers Market. Served in dishes at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, Au Fond/Grace, Chez Philippe, Interim, Restaurant Iris, River Oaks, Sole, Tsunami, and Umai.

Tomatoes from Micmak Farms

Produce sold at the Memphis Botanic Garden Farmers Market, the Memphis Farmers Market, Miss Cordelia’s, and the Trolley Stop Market. Served in dishes at J. Alexander’s.

Lettuce from Bennett-Burks Farm

Produce sold at the Memphis Botanic Garden Farmers Market, the Memphis Farmers Market, and the Trolley Stop Market. Served in dishes at Felicia Suzanne’s.

Dressing made with honey from Peace Bee Farm

Products sold at the Center for Southern Folklore, the Cupboard, the Memphis Botanic Garden Farmers Market, the Memphis Farmers Market, Muddy’s Bake Shop, and the Trolley Stop Market. Served in dishes at Chez Philippe, Felicia Suzanne’s, the Inn at Hunt Phelan, and McEwen’s on Monroe.

Onions from Whitton Farms

Produce sold at the Memphis Botanic Garden Farmers Market, the Memphis Farmers Market, and the Trolley Stop Market. Served in dishes at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, Chez Philippe, Felicia Suzanne’s, the Inn at Hunt Phelan, Interim, Jillbilly’s at the Trolley Stop Market, Mesquite Chophouse, and Restaurant Iris.

Goat cheese from Bonnie Blue Farm

Cheese sold at the Memphis Farmers Market and Miss Cordelia’s. Served in dishes at Au Fond/Grace, Chez Philippe, Felicia Suzanne’s, Hi-Tone Café, Interim, and Restaurant Iris.