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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Think Big

Ben Earhart is the self-proclaimed best bartender in Memphis, the “crazy Tennessean” who mans the bar at Kooky Canuck and serves as the gatekeeper of the best happy hour Downtown. We headed to Kooky Canuck to watch the draft and talk Canada with Earhart and owner Shawn Danko. It seemed only fitting that we talk basketball with Danko — who relocated to Memphis from Toronto — and get the opinions of Memphis’ second-most famous Canadian now that our most famous Canadian is NBA champ Marc Gasol.

Kooky Canuck is known for its big menu items, most notably their various “Challenges,” including the Kookamonga, King Kookamonga, and Humonga Kookamonga, a $99.99, 25-pound meal to be consumed between no more than four people in under 60 minutes. Those who claim victory over the burger earn a spot on the wall of fame and a free meal. The burger challenges might’ve made them famous, but there’s more to this place than the food. When it comes to all things bar-related, Kooky Canuck does it big and cheap.

Justin Fox Burks

Ben Earhart

Happy hour is from 3 to 7 p.m., Monday through Friday, and features a house wine, well mixed drink, or domestic beer for $2.50. A 34-ounce Molson Canadian sets you back a mere $5 at any time. Ten dollars will get you a craft beer of the same size. Interested in a 34-ounce cocktail? It’s $9.99 all day every day, pal. And a 12-ounce pour of a house wine, literally a pour to the brim of the standard wine glass, is $6.99. With these deals, you, too, can be drunk enough to nearly fall off a bus during a parade in your honor.

Speaking of Gasol’s now-legendary drinking antics after earning a ring with the Toronto Raptors, what would owner Danko’s poison of choice be if he needed to tie one on while bussing through the streets of Toronto? “Canadian whiskey, absolutely,” he says. He prefers Forty Creek, but clutched in his hands is a bottle of Wayne Gretzky’s proprietary booze that he’s giving a shot. Canadian whiskeys are normally blends and, in Canada, they’re often referred to as ryes, despite the absence of rye in almost all of them, Danko says. Earhart reappears with Forty Creek Copper Pot, a Canadian whiskey with a maple finish that he asks us to try. Maybe it’s the effect of the 34-ounce beer I’m enjoying, but the maple-y Copper Pot is almost as delightful as my beloved Jameson.

Danko is quick to point out Memphis-Canada connections, including Canadian politeness’ similarity to Southern hospitality. The Memphis Grizzlies now have two Canadians with the addition of Brandon Clarke (the other being Dillon Brooks). Danko also shares that Kyle Lowry’s first meal, upon moving to Memphis, was at Kooky Canuck. His favorite memory of Gasol came a few years ago at the Grizz Gala in Tunica. As he posed for a picture with Gasol, Danko accidentally grabbed his ass (we’ve all wanted to do it, so shout-out to Danko for getting the job done) and then, as is custom for our polite Northern neighbors, apologized profusely.

Kooky Canuck’s drink specials are the shining star of this place, but its most prominent feature is the décor. The inside is full of deer, moose, and caribou heads. Where does one acquire this substantial collection? “Bachelors getting married,” Danko deadpans. While I might be here for the booze and taxidermy, it’s worth noting that Kooky Canuck also has a substantial menu and a kitchen that stays open late. On weeknights, the kitchen is open until 1 a.m. and the bar until 3 a.m. On weekend nights, the kitchen is open until 2 a.m. At the Cordova location, it’s open until 2 a.m. every night of the week to accommodate those unfortunate suburbanites who don’t have a plethora of late-night dining options.

Interested in finding out how many $9.99 34-ounce cocktails you can consume under the watchful eyes of a dead moose? Head to Kooky Canuck and vie for a coveted seat at Earhart’s bar. You might end up in the warm embrace of your new favorite Canadian whiskey and with that much more in common with your recently departed Memphian-turned-Canadian.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Bar DKDC: Sanctuary for Real People

When it comes to drag performances, the higher the heels, the higher my expectations. Mary Gagz and Her Gaggle of Drags, performing at Karen Blockman Carrier’s Bar DKDC every Monday night from 8:30 to 11 p.m., leave little to be desired in their full-on takeover of one of Memphis’ favorite artful holes in the wall. The night also serves as the bar’s industry night. The evening’s general feel is reminiscent of Bar DKDC’s sister restaurant, The Beauty Shop’s Rehab nights that used to occur every Monday night. It’s a throwback to the grand days of Rehab: late nights, a colorful cast, and the sort of hangovers that leave you questioning many of life’s decisions. Looking for a reminder? Head to Bar DKDC and this time, remember to take off work on Tuesday.

We arrived about halfway through the show this past Monday and the girls and their fans were in full swing. Tia Burchfield is the bartender on Monday nights and said that part of the reason they began hosting Mary Gagz and the rest of her girls is to try out a re-launch of Rehab. The night includes a full show and industry night prices, including $5 well liquor drinks, $2 PBRs and High Lifes, and $6 Fireball and Tullamore Dew shots. If that doesn’t serve to lube one up after a long weekend of working in hospitality, then your expectations are, honestly, way higher than the heels will ever be.

Justin Fox Burks

Mary Gagz and Her Gaggle of Drags

In a manner, Bar DKDC caters overwhelmingly to us night owls; shows typically begin later and go late into the night. People roll in after long hours, ready to commiserate and imbibe with their fellow restaurant crews, eager to be among their people after dealing with the general public and their obnoxious children in various dining settings. That’s the feeling at DKDC; it’s authenticity and inclusion, a sanctuary for real people with real stories.

But unless you’re living under Mississippi mud, you know about the musical acts at DKDC. Mary Gagz and Her Gaggle of Drags are relatively new to the lineup; they began their weekly performances in late January. From the looks of it, they’ve already established themselves in the fabric of Bar DKDC and its incredible ability to morph into a perfect venue for whichever act it is hosting. Everyone has probably spent a sweaty night in DKDC. Shows get packed and those who do not arrive early will be doomed (or delighted) to stand and sway with the music rather than find a comfortable seat. But that’s the atmosphere! Get up close and personal with the rest of the fans. Pack into that small room and feel the passion. Find yourself falling backwards into the photobooth as the crowd runneth over. And, if you’re Mary Gagz and company, work the room like you own it and take possession of the hearts and souls of those who watch.

The drag performance was a more low-key affair than the pulsating throng of people you normally encounter at a late-night weekend performance (and thank the heavens above; it’s Monday, after all). The girls had plenty of room to move about, titillate, and invite others into their wild world. The audience came prepared to drink, cheer, and offer monetary support to our Memphis performers who put so much into their alter egos. Tia, our bartender who has probably seen her fair share of debauchery, rock-and-roll, and drunken exploits cited none of the former as her favorite reasons for working at DKDC. She simply said that it’s the people that she works alongside that make her job most enjoyable. It speaks to the scene that Bar DKDC cultivates. It’s a place for all of us, both queens and bartenders, both those looking for a thrill and those of us looking for a meal, both those in need of camaraderie and those in need of a break. DKDC bathes itself in a light that begs both for secrets to be kept and secrets to be told, and what better place for a drag show than that?

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

The Colorful Mi Tierra

Imagine a whimsical wonderland of sombreros vueltiaos, artificial flowers, and empanadas right near the Memphis-Bartlett border, a true “beach within reach,” a wild place of music, décor, and margaritas to which words can’t do justice. That’s Mi Tierra, a Colombian restaurant at 5883 Summer, and that’s where we ventured last week for a change of pace and just the right amount of tequila.

Mi Tierra is nestled in a bizarre shopping center, but it’s hard to miss with its bright colors and Colombian flags. The first thing that greets you is a sandy beach out front. This is a beachside bungalow of a restaurant, complete with two covered patios and fake parrots aplenty. Inside, no surface goes uncovered. From the windows to the walls, it’s a tropical canopy, a mish-mash of tiki and jungle, a fanciful paradise. Mirna Garcia, the owner, explains, “We go for decorations here.”

Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

Mi Tierra is covered from top to bottom with colorful decorations and fake parrots.

Justin Fox Burks

A sampler platter of Colombian delights.

Garcia opened Mi Tierra nearly 16 years ago; this Halloween will mark her official anniversary. She has had plenty to celebrate in those 16 years. Besides her weekly reggae parties and Saturday late nights, she is also a regular competitor in the Flyer‘s annual Margarita Festival. Last year, she won second place with her passion fruit margarita, a delicious concoction that wholly masked the tequila, which could be dangerous on a warm patio day.

Speaking of patios, Mi Tierra does it right. Besides their front porch patio, they also feature a large covered patio to the side of the building. It’s the perfect place to throw a real afternoon rager. There’s a bar, TVs, and enough seating to accommodate 50 of your most fun-loving friends. Owing to its roof, this is a patio to be enjoyed whenever it’s warm, rain or shine. The patio is just one of many hidden gems lurking in the restaurant, though.

While exploring the restaurant, there’s a lot to take in. More so than any other place I’ve visited (and I’ve been to a lot of Cracker Barrels), Mi Tierra is absolutely covered. The flowers above hide large speakers (and at least one speaker is wearing a soccer kit) and televisions. There’s a fish bowl in one wall, small houses embedded in another, and a large drop-down screen that, the night we visited, was showing some salsa dancing. Mi Tierra celebrates its regulars and its history by showcasing photos on each table and I aim to make it in a table photo one of these days (disregard that print film is on the outs; I’ve always wanted to be a table photo person and this seems like the place to be one).

Justin Fox Burks

Mirna Garcia holding Mi Tierra’s second-place trophy from Margarita Fest.

Justin Fox Burks

Margaritas!

Mi Tierra is yet another place that caters to the very deserving service industry crowd. As Garcia says, “At 10 p.m., the lights go down and the music goes up!” She keeps the bar open until 3 a.m. and the kitchen open until 2 a.m. on the weekends for late-night entertaining, dancing, and revelry. For those looking for delicious food after-hours, this is the place. We enjoyed a large platter between four of us full of plantains, empanadas, arepas, various meats, and a cilantro dipping sauce that was unbelievably good. None among us, however, was willing to order the mysterious bebida con queso. My Spanish is at the intermediate level, but if my translation is correct, it’ll take more than three margaritas for me to try a cheese drink. But the margaritas! They were delicious. It’s easy to see why this group took second place in the Margarita Festival and why I’ll be rooting for them to take home the first place prize this year.

As is well-established, I often go to bars in the Midtown and Downtown areas and don’t venture out to the Bartlett area for much. We could all take a page from Bartlett’s book, though, and support such a thriving Latino-owned culinary scene. Mi Tierra is one of many treasures in the area, and with a patio and drinks like that, it should be a go-to spot for not just Bartlett-dwellers but all the rest of us, too. Don’t believe me? Check out the length of their line at the Margarita Festival and let that do the talking.

Mi Tierra, 5883 Summer Avenue

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Patrick’s: a perfect little gem of a watering hole.

Patrick’s Neighborhood Bar & Patio has been a staple of the East Memphis bar and restaurant scene for over 25 years. Catering to families and late-night crowds alike, it features one of the city’s most underrated patios, which was in full swing when I visited the bar recently. Also in full swing? The number of knick-knacks and stickers covering literally every single surface of the bar and walls. It feels like a more accessible Cracker Barrel, but my friend had a more accurate description. “It looks like the suspenders from Office Space. Full of flair.” Between the patio, the bar inside, and the restaurant, Patrick’s offers something for everybody that finds themselves in need of a solid neighborhood restaurant.

The flair extends to the massive menu. There are steaks! There are sandwiches! There is shrimp alfredo! There are burgers, sliders, and tacos! They offer a meat-and-two every day! But as usual, I’m not here for the meatloaf or fried okra or Cuban. I’m here because it’s been a long week and I’ve earned myself a cold draft beer.

Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

Jo Chetter

Patrick’s is a bar full of regulars (a bunch of regulars that, apparently, have also had a long week and earned themselves a cold draft beer), which I appreciate because it means it’s good enough and cheap enough for people to regularly return. While the restaurant area stays crowded with families, the bar is more of a beer-and-sports crowd, a perfect little gem of a watering hole hidden in a family-friendly restaurant. You can eat with the kids and then send them along while you kick back a couple Budweisers with someone’s grandpa at the bar. Or you can relocate to the patio and hang out with the after-hours restaurant crowd who regularly meet up at Patrick’s. It makes a great place to enjoy Memphis Italian Festival without actually having to go into Marquette Park and risk, well, whatever it is we risk when we go into a sprawling festival with alcohol and pasta.

Carrie Stephens

Speaking of risk-taking, Patrick’s contains some items of flair that 100 percent open it up to much-deserved criticism. It’s a Memphis bar, but they’ve managed to somehow stuff a handful of Kansas Jayhawks items into the bar area, which is a move bold enough to a) showcase a huge pair of balls and b) drive away some of the more loyal Tigers fans among us. How has the Kansas memorabilia survived these past few seasons? Is it bolted down? How many drunk dudes have tried to liberate that stuff from the bar and feed it to the dumpster out back? People never cease to surprise me. Sadly, the bartender couldn’t offer any explanation (or the tearful apology I was hoping for).

When my friend went to the restroom, a man sitting nearby told me that he had been coming to Patrick’s for 40 years, which I find curious as it is not that old, but maybe that’s the testament to how heavy the drinks are poured. The right amount of whiskey would make math hard for anyone. He also couldn’t tell me the origin of the Kansas gear; he simply shrugged and said that maybe it’s because the Tigers’ colors are blue, too. Someone come and get your uncle!

Patrick’s might seem, at first, to be a bar without much identity owing to its desire to try to cater to everybody, but a look around the place will clear that up. If it appears that it tries to cater to everybody, it’s because it does and it works. A group of college-age dudes was seated out on the patio getting out-drunk by a spirited group of octogenarians. A young couple sipped whiskey sours (if that isn’t a throwback drink, I don’t know what is) at the bar. A toddler tried to hold the door open for me. People of all ages converged upon Patrick’s to enjoy what I hope is the start of another glorious Memphis patio season. The good news is that not only are we all welcome, there’s plenty of room to squeeze a few more regulars in there.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

A Visit to Pontotoc Lounge

The only reason that the Pontotoc Lounge wasn’t packed the night I went is that, presumably, not enough people know that there’s an actual bar that is equal parts the “Be Our Guest” set from Beauty and the Beast and a contemporary art funhouse. It’s luxurious and intimate, creative and dark. We went in the middle of the week and spent a few hours with Cady Smith, one half of the bartending duo who designs, names, and serves the drinks at Pontotoc Lounge. It didn’t have any cursed Prince Charmings, but if one spends enough time at this elaborate, mirrored bar, one could easily understand the appearance of dancing furniture.

Pontotoc Lounge has undergone a bit of an overhaul. Its former version was bright and airy with white walls. It was the kind of brightness and natural light that I don’t like to associate with drinking unless said drinking is being done on a patio. It also felt out of place in an arts district known for its devotion to darker, grubbier bars. Fortunately, owner Daniel Masters must have recognized this, because he went in the complete opposite direction with Pontotoc’s latest incarnation. The walls are now black, and the lights are low. Large, framed mirrors are hung everywhere, and in the dimness of the space, the mirrors make for a fun adventure for anyone navigating toward the restroom. This is made no easier by the incredible mural by Frances Berry that covers the whole hallway including the ceilings; Berry’s line work makes this a perfect location to be blindfolded and spun around before being made to walk a straight line. Masters also dropped “café” from the name and added the slinkier and sexier “lounge.”

Justin Fox Burks

Cady Smith with a blazing cocktail

Smith and her colleague, Jonathan Wade, have put together a hell of a drink menu that matches the new look. It’s unique without being over the top, featuring cocktails like the Mezcal Negroni (a combination that works way better than it should) and the Constant Sorrow, which is the perfect drink for the post-holiday Seasonal Affective Disorder that’s wrecking your life right now. For the more adventurous among us, the menu also has the Safe Word (gin-based with ginger and rosemary) and Love Your Mouth (inexplicable flavor combination of rum and egg white). They’ve incorporated local spirits from Old Dominick into their menu, which Smith says they try to change seasonally. She and Wade make most of their bitters, shrubs, and tinctures. The Smokin’ Mary, made with Old Dominick bourbon, was a delicious concoction made even better by a rosemary tincture that is so concentrated it can be lit on fire. Anyone who lights drinks on fire can fully expect to see me back at their establishment. Pontotoc also serves their wine in large, voluminous glasses, which is an oft-ignored special something that all bars should do.

Perhaps the most grandiose display of luxury within the Pontotoc is the oversized, completely unnecessary chandelier. It’s hard to describe how large it is, as a piece half its size would still look massive in the narrow, dark space. Evoking the Beast’s mansion and frolicking décor, it’s cartoonish in the perfect way. I felt fancy sitting underneath it, so I can only imagine how girls on actual dates probably feel when they visit Pontotoc. It is the perfect centerpiece in a bar where interior decorating is already much celebrated and respected.

The Pontotoc Lounge is by no means a dive bar, but it does a bang-up job of fitting in with the dive bars, chandelier and all. It knows its South Main audience, because there are two TVs for those who like decadence but also need to keep up with Mike Conley and 624 new Grizzlies. It has a full menu with meat and cheese plates and chicken and dumplings among other delicious-sounding dishes. They even serve brunch until 6 p.m. on Sundays (2 p.m. on Saturdays) for those patrons who find themselves allergic to sunlight, or, because they’re a monster from a Disney movie, don’t like going out in the daytime. Give this place a visit; I may just be there, too, clapping gleefully at things on fire.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

A Visit to the B-Side Memphis.

The winds of change have blown through the Memphis bar and restaurant scene over the past couple of years. Some old favorites have closed or, more appropriately in the case of the Buccaneer, been burned and razed. From the ashes rises B-Side Memphis, opening in the seemingly unlikely location of Minglewood Hall. Minglewood has been home to a random hodge-podge of businesses over the years, but not many of them have been a beacon shining bright to the crowd that now finds its way to B-Side. It hasn’t been for lack of trying on Minglewood’s behalf: We are just naturally skeptical of ample parking and clean toilets. These amenities are outside of our comprehension when coupled with our treasured local acts.

“We’re doing music every night,” general manager Brad Boswell says. “The focus is on Memphis music.” In a market that hasn’t always been kind to out-of-town bands, this makes sense. Boswell books B-Side himself and stacks each bill with those treasured local acts. He explains that B-Side isn’t just a restaurant or a bar, but a place to go check out music. The focus on Memphis doesn’t end with the tunes, either. The bar serves Pancho’s cheese dip, hummus, and feta dip from nearby Casablanca, kolaches from Howard’s Donuts, and meat pies made by local musician, tattoo artist, and apparent meat pie connoisseur Mark Svetz. Boswell and his brother, Ben, have a full menu planned for the spring, but honestly, can it get any better? There is no stopping you, dear patron, from dipping your locally sourced meat pie in the Pancho’s.

Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

Brad Boswell at B-Side

As if B-Side’s focus on Memphis music and beloved local dips wasn’t enough, Boswell also corralled some familiar talent. His staff is full of former employees of both Old Zinnie’s and the Buccaneer, so pounding beers at B-Side will feel, for many of us, just like home. B-Side has a happy hour starting when they open at 3 p.m. each day and running through 8 p.m. It features $1 off of everything, excluding the already-affordable High Life pony bottles. On Saturdays and Sundays, they open at 6 p.m. Each night of the week, they’re open until 3 a.m., allowing for maximum hell-raising and music-listening. B-Side itself isn’t the cramped, grubby bar that we’ve all embraced in the past. Its ceilings are high, its bar long, its floors hardwood. It’s a space that finally affords us the square footage to rock without fear of the walls caving in or the floor giving way.

Boswell wasn’t kidding about the whole “it’s a place to see music” thing. While there are plenty of tables and booths, there is way more emphasis on space to stand, inviting us to actually pay attention to what’s on the stage. On the night that I went, the crowd stood quietly, enraptured by the peaceful sitar-playing of Naan Violence, the first of a four-band, all-Memphis bill. Each Monday, Devil Train takes the stage, yet another tradition borrowed from bars long gone. And yeah, it’s an actual stage! A dedicated space that doesn’t require moving tables or stacking chairs!

Is this where we are now, Memphis? Have we finally traded in and traded up? Have we finally gotten what we’ve long deserved? This is a bar that has finally answered to all of us who have grown up. We’ve long stood in puddles of bodily fluids in the dive bars of Memphis, smoked in spaces without fans or ventilation, suffered a from-behind soaking from a domestic beer. We’ve gabbed loudly through sets, stumbled into restrooms with no toilet paper, and hugged walls stained with years of sweat and smoke. B-Side has taken all of us in, shown us the light, and graced us with its actual adult bar presence. We loved our falling-apart-at-the-seams dives, and we still love the ones that remain. B-Side Memphis, however, is the beautiful new bar that has all the feel (and all of the people) of the good old days with less of the trash and germs. We’ve arrived, guys, and there are plenty of meat pies and parking spaces here.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

The Red Bar: lounge-y to the max.

“Big or small?” is normally the question used to shame tourists into buying larger sizes of beer on Beale, but at the Red Bar it’s just the standard follow-up question when someone orders a martini. Although I’m used to varying sizes of martinis depending on where I am, I never get different options within the same establishment. Enter the Red Bar, the lounge counterpart to Side Street Grill in Overton Square, where size variety is the spice of life.

The Red Bar is lounge-y to the max. It’s dark and smoky with mostly red lights (so it’s not just a clever name), a small, intimate bar of only eight seats, and a raucous, close-knit group of regulars. The night we arrived, Tyler, the bartender, told us it was close to getting very busy because of the Saints-Cowboys game that evening. “Are you a Saints bar or a Cowboys bar?” I asked, since nearly every Overton Square bar has a designation. “Neither,” Tyler said. “Hell, we’re just going to get rowdy at this place anyway, even if no one has a dog in the fight.” Sure enough, the lounge fills up, with the most motley of the crews taking over the community table near the TVs.

Why so rowdy? Having not visited the Red Bar in a couple years, I forgot about their legendary drink menu that lends itself to rowdiness. The drink menu is full of various shooters, all of which can be made into either a small or jumbo-sized martini. The Red Bar doesn’t slack in the shooter department; it contains mixtures that have never before been seen, concoctions immediately forgotten about after leaving college or the Florida panhandle, and abominations normally consumed after losing a bet. Factor in the possibility of any of these drinks being served in a three-ounce martini glass and it stands to reason why, suddenly, the Saints-Cowboys game on the TV is the most important life event ever. I took note of the “Hennything is Possible,” a mixed drink made from Hennessy. If we can fabricate a mixed drink out of Hennessy, then colonizing Mars can’t be far behind.

Tyler, the man at the helm of the bar most nights per week, is the kind of guy everyone wants at their neighborhood watering hole. He greets each person by name as they walk in and immediately pours their drink, handing it to them as they walk past the bar. There’s a gentleman nearby drinking a well whiskey and Fireball on the rocks and Tyler is even making this without judgment. (Then again, after a few Cooter Shooters, martini-style, I wouldn’t be opposed to trying it for kicks.) Everyone should be so lucky to encounter such an able and affable bartender, a man who knows those kinds of secrets about you.

The Red Bar doesn’t just corner the market on shooters; they provide a plethora of delightful daily specials. On Martini Mondays, enjoy their martinis at a discounted price of $5 for small and $10 for a large. Tuesday is Draft and Pasta Night, a carb-laden indulgence of $2.50 pints and $22 pasta dinner for two that includes an appetizer. On Wednesdays, it’s Steak Night. For $34, you’ll get an appetizer and two steaks plus sides and salads. On Thursdays, all import beers are $2.50. There is a two-drink minimum to take advantage of those food specials, but bear in mind they have a reputation as a bar to uphold.

The night we blew into the Red Bar, Tyler already had a small crowd of regulars seated in front of him. We weren’t there for two minutes before we got to know them and fell into the kind of spirited discussion that’s normally reserved for close friends. That speaks to the feel of the place, though; it’s an amiable crew of close friends that will still welcome visitors into their circle. No one is afraid to have the sort of conversation that turns a stranger into a friend, and in Overton Square, a district slowly becoming a little too sterile in some places for some longtime residents, that’s just the feel that I’m seeking.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Lucchesi’s Beer Garden: beer, falafel, pin ball.

There is a bar far enough away from the Highland Strip to avoid the undergrad crowd, but close enough to find a philosophy grad student boyfriend that challenges your parents’ conservative beliefs. It’s a bar free and clear of an entertainment district, but still within walking distance of Taco Bell. It’s Lucchesi’s Beer Garden, and it has some bitchin’ neighborhood bar amenities to offer.

The Beer Garden, located at 84 S. Reese, is just off Poplar behind Raffe’s Deli. The two were once connected but are no longer affiliated. Raffe’s daughter, Basma, now owns the Beer Garden with her husband, Tony Lucchesi. The Beer Garden serves up some awesome food out of a tiny kitchen adjacent to the bar including the Big Bad Blake, a panini that holds the honor of being the most expensive sandwich on the menu, and the Triple H, which the Flyer‘s own Michael Donahue proclaimed to be the best sandwich he’d had in 15 years.

While we as Memphians always celebrate cheese fries and other cheesy pub fare, a bar menu full of falafel, hummus, and gyros is a welcome change-up. The amenities don’t stop with a distinct and delicious menu, either! Pinball is quickly ascending on my list of favorite bar sports, and the Beer Garden has three pinball machines: Batman, No Fear, and The Champion Pub. I’ve never laid eyes on The Champion Pub anywhere else, and it’s just delightful. You get to fight a guy named “Knuckles O’Brien” with a ball.

Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

If pinball and gyros don’t do it for you, maybe the specials will. Tony has Happy Hour all day on Sunday from 3 to 10 p.m., and Fridays and Saturdays from 10 p.m. to 12 a.m. He and Basma also have a Wednesday pint night and $1 off all bottles and cans on Tuesday nights. Yeah, $1 off bottles and cans! Finally giving the omnipresent “draft night” a run for its money. Of course, the Beer Garden is a beer-only establishment, which is probably implied by the name for the more astute reader. And the beer is everywhere! It’s stacked in the corner near a sign that says “Smile, there’s beer.” It’s piled next to the record player where Tony is spinning an Elvis Costello record. They’ve curated an excellent selection, including local brews, a delicious pineapple cider, and a sour from Earthbound Brewing called “Fuzzy Pickles” that is pretty damn good.

Although the beer selection might be the selling point for someone to visit for the first time, it’s the camaraderie that keeps this place busy. Blake, the sandwich’s namesake, and Kevin are two of the bar’s regulars. Kevin started coming by when he lived in the neighborhood over 10 years ago. He says the Beer Garden is the kind of place where you can make it what you want it to be, whether you want to join in on the conversation or sit alone. That being said, “There are no private conversations at this bar,” Kevin adds. He and Tony also told me that a lot of nights when there’s nothing else on, they watch all the eclectic sports, like professional darts and curling. For all of us who, during the Olympics, took to Twitter to express our undying love for the sport of curling, this should be welcome news. Wondering where to watch it year-round? Look no further, curling fans.

From the pinball to the food to the pineapple cider and pickle beers, The Beer Garden’s amenities offer something for everyone. Tony and Basma allow it to change with the times, too. They’ve rearranged the kitchen nearly 10 times to better accommodate the ebb and flow of orders. In 2015, they cut out indoor smoking (but still allow it on the patio). They’ll put the sound on for some games and then other times, like the night I visited, it’s the Grateful Dead that you’ll hear. The regulars embraced me, as I get the impression they’ll embrace anyone who is willing to join in on the conversation. The conversation is, after all, the most important amenity.

Lucchesi’s Beer Garden, 84 South Reese, (452-3002), beergardenmemphis.com

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

The Lamplighter: “You Either Love It or Hate It.”

The Lamplighter Lounge is lit only by lamps. No overhead lighting casts its unflattering light on this hole in the wall or its patrons, located at 1702 Madison. The Lamplighter Lounge recently changed hands, coming under ownership of Chuck Vicious, a longtime bartender. While Chuck and co-owner Laurel Cannito have made a few changes, the Lamplighter remains as dependable as its lamps: a shining light that attracts barflies.

“We’re the type of bar that you either love it or hate it,” says Thomas, the engaging and charming man behind the bar when my friend and I visited. I get what he’s saying, but he sells the Lamplighter short. The people who hate it would hate any old Midtown dive. No one is at the Lamplighter for a carefully curated wine list; they’re there to rage at a rock show, drain several pints of PBR, and blast cigarettes even though they’re trying to quit. If one takes proud ownership of their vices, then, yeah, they’re going to love it.

In addition to its lovingly dingy interior, full of furniture that looks like it was commandeered from a 1970s insurance office that closed up shop, the Lamplighter proceeds to check a lot of dive bar boxes. There’s PBR on tap, of course, but also PBR in bottles (you know, if you’re a snob about cheap beer). There’s smoking allowed inside. Kitschy, smoke-stained posters adorn the walls, and the sign directing you to the restrooms reads, “The Boardroom.” Check, check, and check. The most notable change under Chuck is the removal of the pool table, freeing up more space for bands to play. Not a bad idea, especially considering that as I recall, that pool table had a lot of stories to tell, and most of them didn’t involve actual billiards. A pool cue is still affixed to the wall. “As a memorial,” Thomas says. The most welcome change, however, has been the removal of the carpet from the floors. “As a blessing from Midtown Jesus,” I say.

Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

Thomas pours a PBR

The Lamplighter, like any good dive, allows you to bring in your own liquor and pay for a set-up fee. When it comes to alcohol, they only serve beer. There are plenty of local and domestic beers available. Amazingly, they now offer La Croix, so all of Memphis’ weird seltzer nerds can pound flavored waters in a bar, as absolutely no one ever intended. They also offer a variety of hot teas and pour-over coffee, which is intriguing in a place like that. It brings together in seamless combination two of Memphis’ favorite things: coffeehouses and dens of iniquity.

Thomas, wearing a Jeff Gordon shirt and recommending Long Road ciders to several patrons, is an untapped talent in the bartending world. He works both Sunday and Thursday nights; on Thursdays he also hosts karaoke. I’ve never witnessed Lamplighter karaoke, but I’ve been to enough dive bar karaoke nights to have a firm grasp of what kind of performances patrons will witness. When asked about other 2018 amenities they have to offer, Thomas says, “Well, we’ve got wifi and an auxiliary cord!” Rejoice, everyone! While you can still spin some vinyl behind the bar, you can now also plug in your iPhone and force others there to listen to your own lackluster musical selections! Someone down the bar from us adds that the Lamplighter boasts a new PA as well. It’s welcome news for anyone who’s been to a show there, as sometimes bands stumble on the line between loud, creative genius and sounding like they’re taking the stage inside a construction dumpster. Again, you’re not at the Lamplighter expecting the acoustics of the Orpheum. You’re there to listen to loud music and accidentally spill beer in your friend’s purse.

We’re joined later by a wedding party, welcoming its first out-of-town guests for a weeklong Memphis affair. Their guests, from halfway around the world, receive their first introduction to Memphis in the form of the Lamplighter Lounge, a round of cheap beers, and a selection of board games (they’re playing Connect Four). The bride, faithful to the Lamplighter, wouldn’t have it any other way. Lord knows those lamps have been shining on a lot of folks, welcoming them to Memphis, for a long time.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Checking Out Sweet Grass

In restaurants, as in life, the younger sibling seems to get all the attention. That’s why you and your pals spend your happy hour drinking beer, eating the famous Badass Nachos, and watching Sportscenter highlights at Sweet Grass Next Door. You’ve forgotten the original. You’ve left it high and dry because you can’t watch Around the Horn on a non-existent TV, nor can you order a plate of nachos that feeds approximately 327 people at the original (and older) Sweet Grass. Sweet Grass came along in 2010 at 937 Cooper, a year and some months before Sweet Grass Next Door opened its doors, well, next door. It’s time for Sweet Grass to take back what is theirs, and Nick Lumpkin, the Cocktail Program Director of Sweet Grass and all its sister restaurants, is leading the charge.

Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

Nick had been employed by various other local restaurants when he landed a gig at Sweet Grass. Humbled before chef/owner Ryan Trimm and staff, he worked as the parking lot attendant. You know, that guy you cuss out because you don’t understand why you have to pay to park to go get sloshed at the Deli? It was a testament to his devotion to the Sweet Grass family, because he worked in the parking lot each weekend for a year. Eventually, just two and a half years ago, he began working bar shifts and there he has remained ever since. He curates a careful menu of cocktails, many under $10, which is becoming rare in the Midtown mixology scene. Competing with Next Door and its successes can’t be easy, though, so we went to pay a visit to the restaurant that started it all.

Get bartender Nick Lumpkin (opposite) to mix you something at the original Sweet Grass.

Sweet Grass is one of many restaurants that is on the fancier side but with a bar that is decidedly more relaxed. We arrived in the middle of a rainstorm and, though the dining room wasn’t busy yet, the bar was packed. Furthermore, it’s the type of bar where two drowned-rat-looking people coming in from a storm are welcomed. The Sweet Grass bar boasts a deal unlike any other in Memphis: Tuesday through Friday, oysters are 50 cents each from 5 to 7 p.m. The oysters are rotating; any given day they offer oysters from the East, West, and Gulf coasts. Think you can snag this deal at Next Door? Think again, buddy. It’s only available for patrons of Sweet Grass.

But that’s not all Sweet Grass offers! They have an incredible selection of whiskeys and bourbons; Nick thinks the number is close to 100. My friend and I asked Rachel, who was tending bar, what she felt like making (you’ll see that this is a running theme at the Sweet Grass bar) and she served us two whiskey cocktails that were delicious. We followed those up with one of Nick’s original creations, the Rye Time, made with Wild Turkey 101 Rye, honey gastrique, and thyme. Nick, and seemingly Rachel unless she just felt sorry for me because I looked like hell, says that he enjoys catering to people and going off-menu to craft a drink that he knows they’ll enjoy.

He also knows what the people want. On Sunday nights, he keeps the bar open until midnight, welcoming those from the service industry. He spins records and offers a cocktail menu with $6 drink specials. Shockingly, this is not a well-known thing. He’s been doing it for nearly four months, and all us restaurant and former restaurant folk, creatures of habit, flock to the same bars each night. Friends, we are missing out. A bartender who will make craft cocktails for $6 and play vinyl until midnight on Sundays? We don’t deserve Nick.

Ditch the little sister that is Sweet Grass Next Door and take your ass to Sweet Grass for once. You don’t need a reservation to slam some local beers and eat oysters at the bar. Hobnob with all the fancy people about to sit down to dinner while you and Nick recount his sordid parking lot past. While I was racing through the rain toward Sweet Grass that evening, Nick was stuck in that same rainstorm, only he was on a Bird scooter. Now that’s a guy I’d like to give money to.