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Hoping For A Rosy Future

A rose by any other name — still won’t impress Colby Midgett.

“I hate roses,” says Midgett. “They are just so normal, you know. It’s like the go-to for all flowers. But there are so many other beautiful flowers that people just overlook.”

As owner of Premier Flowers, Midgett says she still uses roses every day. Over the years, she’s used them in hundreds of floral arrangements, including one that took 500 roses. And she’ll be using more this week for Valentine’s gifts. Valentine’s Day is “a rose holiday.”

Premier Flowers (Credit: Colby Midgett)

Midgett recently moved her florist business to 2095 Madison Avenue after almost eight years downtown. As far as she knows, she may be the first full-scale florist in the history of Overton Square.

She just got tired of what was going on at her old shop at 10 North Second Street, No. 105. “The shop had been broken into three times over the course of five years,” she says. People vandalized cars parked near the shop.

Midgett also had problems when she’d “try to beautify the outside of the store” with plants. The pots were damaged or stolen and the plants got “pulled out of the pot.”

“It was always just something,” she says, adding, “I just got tired of investing money in that location. It started to have an effect on my pocketbook.”

Business also wilted after the pandemic and people began working from home instead of their downtown offices. “It just got weird downtown. Downtown just started to change.”

She decided to close when her lease was about to come to an end last October. She began selling her equipment. “Every piece of refrigeration equipment I owned. The walk-in alone was probably worth about $12,000, but, of course, I didn’t get that.”

A property investor from LPI Memphis, who was buying some coolers  and other restaurant equipment from her, told her about Overton Square. “He said they would love to have us over here as a pop-up.” 

She moved to the new location last November. A native Memphian, Midgett says,“What prompted me to open a florist shop, I would say, was love for flowers and plants and just nature. I love designing. I have a passion for it. I come from a crafty family. My mother and grandmother, they were gardeners. So, I’ve always loved gardening and designing.”

She began her floral business out of her home. “And then it quickly grew,” she says. “I opened my first brick and mortar at Poplar and Tillman.”

Midgett stayed at that location in Chickasaw Oaks for about a year until she moved downtown. “I just needed more space. That business rapidly grew. When I moved downtown, my business grew 47 percent.”

She wasn’t sure at first if moving downtown was the right decision. “I was hesitant initially, but I’ve always loved downtown. And the space was beautiful. An old building surrounded by windows. I was hesitant, but I stepped out on faith and did it anyway.”

But parking was terrible. Customers kept getting tickets. And, she says, “The shop got broken into the first year I was downtown. They kept coming in the same window on the alley side.”

Premier Flowers is now a six-month pop-up in Overton Square.  “We’re just trying the space out. Just to get a feel of the market over here.” But, Midgett says, “It’s like starting a business all over again, really. What I like most about it is they have their own security. And you always see them.”

She also likes the fact that Gould’s Salon Spa-Overton Square is on one side of her shop and Golden India restaurant is on the other side. “We have a backdoor — we didn’t have a backdoor downtown — that looks out into the courtyard.”

Midgett feels welcome at her new spot. “They’ve been wanting a florist over here from what I’ve been told.” And, she adds, “Business has picked up a little.”

Her regular downtown customers are loyal. “People  love our work and our designs. So, I feel like they’ll support us no matter where we are. But the walk-in traffic was a little bit more over there because people are always out walking.”

Asked what describes her style of floral arranging, Midgett says, “We may do a whimsical, airy design, and maybe pop in an orchid. I may throw in some dried palms or just something to give it a unique look. Not like the usual florist sends out.”

She uses “fresh flowers. We don’t do any silks.”

Hydrangeas — “a Southern favorite” — are popular, she says. She may use hydrangea flowers with some tropical greenery, eucalyptus leaves, and “maybe some curly willow or some pussy willow or some green dianthus. Something that gives it a different look. I don’t like to use a lot of low-end flowers like carnations or alstroemeria, or daisies or anything like that. But we do use those.”

As for who makes up the majority of her customers, she says, “We get more men.”

Midgett may hate the flower, but she hopes now in her new Overton Square location — with security and more peace of mind — everything will be coming up roses.

Premier Flowers (Credit: Colby Midgett)
Premier Flowers (Credit: Colby Midgett)
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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Bar Limina Opens in the Edge District

Bar Limina is raising the bar on what a Memphis cocktail establishment should be.

Slated to open in March at 631 Madison Avenue in the Edge District, the space will be “a really great cocktail bar,” says owner Josh Conley, 34. “It’s a technique-driven cocktail bar. Just really well executed cocktails. Some plays on classics.”

In addition to “really high standards of service and really great drinks,” Bar Limina will “feature bartenders from all over the world right in this space with relative frequency.”

He says, “It’s really great for our guests. It offers them this rotating concept: asking bartenders to come in and present an entirely different concept.”

Bar Limina has a lot in common with Conley’s Etowah Hunt Club dinner series. Etowah features at least four pop-up dinners a year, hosted by Conley and Cole Jeanes, chef/owner of Kinfolk Memphis and the upcoming Hard Times Deli. The seasonal dinners feature top chefs from around the country.

“People will want to be here to see what the next attraction is. Same thing with the Etowah dinner series. Just a great extension of that.”

The visiting bartenders, which could be 40 or so people a year, will include some who have been nominated for awards, including the prestigious James Beard Award.

Bar Limina also will feature its own staff of local bartenders, who can learn new techniques, recipes, and ingredients from the out-of-town bartenders. “That’s a lot of knowledge you just don’t get elsewhere,” Conley says. “We want to move the needle as to what Memphis does as a drinking city.”

The same concept is being done in other cities. “The idea of a guest shift at a bar is not an original idea. But doing it at this scale and with this frequency isn’t seen anywhere else.”

As for food, Conley says, “We don’t have a kitchen staff. Just small plates, cheese, charcuterie. That sort of thing. And some other fun things.”

They won’t feature live music inside the bar, which seats about 40 people. “It’s a pretty small place.”

But they have access to a small courtyard. “I can see live music being out there.”

The Bar Limina space was formerly occupied by Inkwell. “We’re in the process of redoing the aesthetics of the space and making it feel like our own.”

It will be “really bright and airy” with a lot of plants. “We’ve got those incredible terrazzo floors that are original to the building.”

The rooms, including the bathroom, feature colorful, intricate tile patterns. “This space originally was a tile showroom, so all the tile through the entire place is wild.”

Colors include “light blues, creamy white, mustard yellow, olive,” he says. The front of the bar, which seats 12, has a black quartz top “with this ox blood enamel finish on the front.”

“I’ll be bringing in some more wood elements to warm it up a little,” Conley says. “We’ve got some early classic leather bar stools. We’ve got light white marble cafe tables.”

And “a great U-shaped leather booth sits back in the corner.”

Art work will include a 12-foot-wide piece of original art by Kyle Taylor behind the bar.

Their neighbors include Ugly Art Co., JEM restaurant, Rootstock Wine Merchants, and the upcoming Hard Times Deli. “There’s a lot of really good synergy in the neighborhood right now.”

Conley, who is from Northeast Arkansas, is a professional bartender, who has worked “in and out of bars. I’ve been around the industry.”

He “instantly gravitated” to the craft cocktail movement. “It was just something I got enamored with, and I made a lot of friends who worked in bars, or worked in coffee.”

“I really mostly learned on my own time,” he says. “It’s my hobby.”

Asked to name his favorite cocktail, Conley says, “I go through phases.”

If he only had one cocktail to drink for the rest of his life it would be a “cocktail à la Louisiane,” which he describes as a “Sazerac and Manhattan mash-up.”

But, Conley says, “I usually drink martinis at home. Gin. Always gin.” 

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WE SAW YOU: Mike McCarthy’s El-Bow Party

Memphis filmmaker/sculptor Mike McCarthy threw his annual El-Bow party, in homage to the shared birthdays of Elvis Presley and David Bowie, on January 25th at McCarthy’s Midtown home.

Each icon got his own cake made by Kasey Dees.

The party, McCarthy says, “was for people who I worked with and sort of a payback to people I’ve been collaborating with.”

This year, the party was part of a longer series of events dealing with the history of rock-and-roll in Memphis. The Marcialyns with Marcia Clifton, Tim Prudhomme, Rev. Neil Down, and Memphis Flyer reporter Chris McCoy performed.

McCarthy kicked everything off with his Glam Rock Picnic last June, where he unveiled his 10-foot papier-mâché work-in-progress sculpture of Bowie, who performed in Memphis. 

McCarthy will tentatively hold his “next Bowie sculpture awareness event”on February 25th. The four Bowie faces have been cast into bronze by the Lugar Foundry. The statue, which portrays Bowie in the “Tokyo Pop” jumpsuit by Kansai Yamamoto, has four heads, which represent Bowie’s predilection for taking on different identities, McCarthy says. 

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Books

Mother-and-son Duo Launch Second Children’s Book

Once upon a time there was a little boy who asked his mother if he could have a pet.

The little boy’s name is Payton Burk. His mother’s name is Kathleen Weatherford. His question led to the two collaborating on their first children’s book, If You Take A Cicada Home as a Pet, in 2022.

They recently completed their second  book, If You Take A Groundhog Home as a Pet. The new book will launch at 3:30 p.m. today, January 30th, which is Burk’s 10th birthday, at a book signing at Novel at 387 Perkins Extended in Laurelwood Shopping Center.

If You Take a Groundhog Home as a Pet

Weatherford, a metalsmith/jewelry artist whose custom-made pieces sell across the country at high-end stores, says Burk was 7 years old when he got a homework assignment to write what it’s like to have a pet. He said, “Oh, mom. I don’t even have a pet,” Weatherford says.

“He’d been begging to have a pet,” but the family is “on the go a lot,” so Weatherford told him, “You don’t need a pet.”

On their way to school, she and her son saw a cicada which appeared to be sleeping. “It looks like a little alien to him. And it flies off. I said, ‘Oh, man. That could have been your pet.’ He got so upset. He said, ‘Now I really don’t have a pet.’”

But, she adds, “That’s when we started the journey of writing.”

But starting that day, Weatherford and Burk began composing a book to and from school each day about what it would be like to have a cicada for a pet. “We would text little pieces of the story in the voice texts on my phone.”

They’d compile everything and organize their thoughts after he got home from school. Burk was learning sentence structure without even knowing it.

Weatherford also realized putting a book together was helping Burk’s recently-diagnosed ADHD.

When the book was completed, Weatherford hired Victoria Trum from Moldavia in Eastern Europe to illustrate the book. 

Weatherford self-published the book, which she originally gave as family Christmas presents. She put the leftover books at Landmark Booksellers in Franklin, Tennessee. “They sold out every time.”

Last winter, Burk asked his mother if they could write another book. “He was getting really tired of winter because he couldn’t play outside.”

Weatherford told him, “We’d better hope the groundhog doesn’t see his shadow. Burk came up with the idea of someone capturing the groundhog as a pet so it won’t be able to see its shadow. The result would be an early spring. If You Take a Groundhog Home as a Pet was born.

Creating a book together was much more than just a pastime, Weatherford says. “The whole purpose was to help him with the creative part of his brain where he was learning, but not knowing he was learning.”

Working on the book helped him in school. “His grades improved substantially,” Weatherford says. “He’s excelling.”

And, she says, “He’s not so frustrated. He doesn’t get so upset. He thinks, ‘I need to step back and organize these thoughts in my head.’”

More books are on the horizon, Weatherford says. “We’re looking at 10 books we have right now on our vision board.”

They dedicate a certain amount of time each day to writing. They’ll sit down, put some ideas on paper, and then come back to them later. After they finish the text, the two talk about what type of illustrations will go with each part of the book. “It’s teaching him to organize, slow down, patience, ask for help. All the things you struggle with in ADHD.”

They send the completed parts of the book to Trum before Burk goes to sleep at night. “When we’re going to bed, she’s getting her day started. So, I have to have these thoughts organized.”

Then, she says, “I’ll wake up the next morning and she’ll have a draft of it.”

Weatherford and Burk attended WriterFest Nashville about a month ago at Belmont University. They’ve taken some short book tours with their first book, but they’re planning a longer book tour this summer with both books. As well as, hopefully, a new book by then, she says. “We’re hoping to get it done by the end of the school year.”

Burk is ready to move on to the next phase of book writing. He recently asked, “Mom, is there any way we can start writing chapter books?”

Weatherford responded, “Maybe one day you can take over and start writing chapter books.”

Burk also came up with a side project: a hot sauce called “Burning Bunghole,” which they’re already selling.

“Every time he comes to me with an idea, I jump on it. I love it. I love that he’s using that creative part of his brain. Let dreams inspire you.”

And, she adds, “The sky’s the limit whatever we decide to do. I want to do whatever I can to help him.”

Weatherford’s advice to parents? “Just get to know your kids. Spend time with them. Put your phones away. We need to slow down and look at what’s in front of us. Figure out what makes your child tick.”

And, hopefully, everyone will live happily ever after.

To order the books on line, go here.

Kathleen Weatherford and Payton Burk (Photo: Gretchen Shaw)
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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Look for the Traditional and the Eclectic at Dvour Desserts

Tyler Jividen wasn’t big on cakes, cookies, and doughnuts as a child. “Growing up, I really wasn’t a huge sweets eater,” he says.

But now, as head baker at Dvour Desserts at 523 South Main Street, Jividen creates — and samples — about three new cheesecake flavors a week. Doing the math, he’s made more than 150 different cheesecake flavors in the past year.

Jividen, 33, grew up in Brighton, Tennessee, as one of two children of parents who cooked. He was an “open-minded eater,” who “kind of wanted to try everything,” he says.

When he was 12 years old watching the Food Network, Jividen got “super obsessed” with preparing food. “Just the basic alchemy of it. The building and layering of flavors. Being in tune with nature. The more I got into cooking, the more into nature I got.”

He always liked being outside. His parents always had a garden. “Mushroom foraging is something I do now as a hobby,” he says. “Instead of just roaming the woods, I now have a little more purpose for it.”

As a student at the old L’Ecole Culinaire, where he graduated in 2013, Jividen wasn’t interested in baking at first. Baking “involves too much science and precision. You have to be precise with everything, which ended up being what I liked about it.”

He “noticed something was there” when he worked with dough. Jividen met chef Derek Buchanan, an instructor at the school and “a phenomenon at making bread.”

Jividen stayed after class and watched Buchanan demonstrate all the steps it took to bake bread, including shaping and fermenting the dough. “I was hooked from there. When we were making dough and starting shaping it, there was something about having my hands in dough, shaping it, pressing it into certain shapes. There was something I really enjoyed about it. And I wanted to keep doing it.”

When he was 20, Jividen got his first restaurant job as a busboy at Texas de Brazil. “I got to wear the regular pants. It was just the gauchos that got to wear the big pants.”

But even as a bus boy, Jividen learned something about cooking. “There was the meat aspect over the fire that I really liked‚ something really primal.”

He worked in the prep station at Hog & Hominy before manning the pizza oven. Jividen was more interested in baking, but, he says, “There’s not really much opportunity here in Memphis. When you’re looking for a job as a high level bread baker, you don’t really have much of an option.”

Jividen moved to France for about eight months after getting an internship at Le Calabash in Yzeures-sur-Creuse, France. Working with Michelin star chef Sidney Bond, Jividen learned to “care for product and ingredients and keeping things seasonal, keeping things as local as possible.”

Care for products involved treating the refrigerator as a “cold garden,” he says. Carrots were carefully wrapped in paper towels that had been dipped in water. Fish had to be stored in the same direction. Flat fish that swam on the floor of the ocean had to be stored “on its belly.”

Jividen then moved to Dubai, where he worked with another Michelin star chef Greg Malouf at the Dubai International Financial Centre.

He didn’t get to do a lot of baking for the year and a half he was abroad, but Jividen did a lot of observing. “I went to every baker I could when I was in France.”

Jividen learned how bakers made “different types of croissants. The way they handle the dough. Types of butter they use. The butter they use there is just incredibly rich. Way more rich than the butters here.”

While in Dubai, Jividen got married. He and his wife Joyce, who is from the Philippines, moved to Seattle, where he worked as head baker at Canlis restaurant. “The West Coast has more access to local grain and different types of them. Whole grain is what I like most. It has more flavor. It’s more technical to work with.”

He also worked as a head baker at Bakery Nouveau. “That’s where I started learning about croissants, Danishes, and more warm brioches and puff pastries.”

After they had a child, Jividen returned with his wife and son to Memphis, where he worked at Catherine & Mary’s, P. O. Press, Erling Jensen: The Restaurant, and the cafeteria at Rhodes College.

He also was pastry chef at Comeback Coffee, where he used brioche dough instead of croissant dough.

Jividen learned about the job at Dvour Desserts from Tony Nguyễn, who was head bartender and a server at Texas de Brazil when he was there.

Dvour owner Travis Brady described what they were doing as far as making cheesecakes and cookies at the time. But, Jividen says, “I had the freedom to create new stuff and take it in a different direction. Assuming it didn’t suck.”

He makes little cheesecakes in silicon bowls and freezes them.

He also sells slices, including his turtle cheesecake. For example, he made a caramel cheesecake with an Oreo pecan crust topped with “Heath pieces, toasted pecans, and chocolate chips. I like to echo flavors a lot instead of doing a bunch of different flavors.”

Jividen also makes his popular Italian “bombolonis” — fried brioche stuffed with jams, jellies, or namelaka. “I like to add namelaka. The texture is lighter than a ganache but denser and richer than a mousse.”

He makes bombolonis every Saturday “from 9 until we sell out.”

They also make savory brioche with white cheddar cheese, sausage and a sweet brioche with pecans, brown sugar, and cream cheese on Saturdays.

He usually makes “one or two or three” new cheesecake flavors every week. “The cheesecake book is filling up pretty quick.”

And, he adds, “We keep five staples. Two flavors rotating seasonally and two rotating weekly or biweekly.”

Jividen’s key lime cheesecake is his most popular flavor at Dvour. “Somewhere between a key lime crust pie meets cheesecake. Rich, smooth, and creamy like key lime pie, but a lot denser. Rich and decadent like a cheesecake.”

For the Teladoc Health gala on January 31st at Clark Tower, Jividen is making a chanterelle cheesecake.

Dvour cheesecake staples include key lime, strawberry, cookies and cream, and one made from ube, a purple sweet potato from the Philippines.

He did a cranberry and gingerbread spice cheesecake with an Oreo crust for Thanksgiving. And, for the holidays, he made a bourbon praline pecan cheesecake.

Cheesecake flavors dance in Jividen’s head like sugarplums. “Making a peanut butter and jelly cheesecake has been on my mind for a long time. But every time I get ready to do it, muscadine season is over.”

Jividen also wants to make a cheesecake using caviar and espuma, which is “a foam you make in a canister. Not as thick as whipped cream, but like a champagne foam almost in a way.”

Biting into this cheesecake will be “like biting into air.” 

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WE SAW YOU: Science of Beer

After they got wet outside, guests wet their whistles inside at Science of Beer.

The annual event was held January 17th at Pink Palace Museum and Mansion. About 550 turned out on a rainy evening for beer from local breweries and cuisine from local food purveyors.

What’s different about this beer tasting is that guests also learn about what they’re drinking. As Pink Palace special events coordinator John Wesley Mullikin said in a Memphis Flyer interview in 2024, “I’ve got the education component, where people are actually learning things. I try to get everybody to talk about what’s different about your beer. What makes your beer special.”

Science of Beer is “not just come and drink beer and eat food,” he says.

The museum also needs to raise money. The profits they raise support its STEAM (science, technology, engineering, arts, math) educational fund, which “provides low-cost experiences for underserved students in this area.”

This year’s event was “a huge success,” Mullikin says.

Note: The museum’s “Science of Wine” fundraiser will be April 25th. 

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Good Times Set for Hard Times Deli

Hard Times Deli is slated to open in February. And that means good times for foodies.

“We’re doing an upscale sandwich shop,” says Harrison Downing. “It’s our take on classic deli sandwiches.”

Downing is the executive chef as well as owner/operator of the upcoming restaurant at 6555 Marshall Avenue near Sun Studio in the Edge District. His other owners are his Secret Smash Burger Society pop-up cohorts Cole Jeans, owner of Kinfolk, and Schuyler O’Brien, City Silo food and beverage director.

Their bread will be made at Josh Steiner’s Hive Bagel & Deli. The beef and pork will come from Home Place Pastures in Como, Mississippi.

“We’ll have, of course, an Italian on the menu.” The classic sandwich is made with salami, pepperoni and mortadella. And, Downing says, “We’ll be making our own mortadella using Home Place Pastures pork pepperoni salami.”

They’re still doing their smash burger at pop-ups and special events, but the one at Hard Times Deli will be another version of their standard. It will be a “chopped cheese” burger, which is “a big New York deli thing. Picture a Philly cheese steak. But it’s ground beef instead of steak.” You put the meat on the flat top, cheese on top “and then you chop up the sandwich.”

The chopped cheese is a spin on a New York deli classic. (Photo: Cole Jeanes)

They will have a smoker in house for their sandwiches, Downing says. “We’ll have four hot sandwiches and four cold sandwiches. And a couple of vegetarian options.”

Downing described the type of bread he wanted to Steiner. “I gave him the bread I really fell in love with — ‘Dutch Crunch’ — in the San Francisco area. Over the past year we’ve been doing some tinkering and working on it.”

“It’s a sweet bread between a brioche and baguette with a slight sweet crust,” Steiner says. “Harry had one bread on his mind when he approached me about helping him with his fresh bread. We worked back and forth for a couple of months and I think we nailed it.”

A native Memphian, Downing says his mother was “a ridiculously good cook.” His first restaurant job was at Jim’s Place Grille in Collierville. “Once I started really getting into it at Jim’s Place, I just never got away from it,” he says.

He also worked at Greys Fine Cheeses & Entertaining and Hog Wild BBQ. But, Downing says, “I’ve always wanted to open a sandwich shop.”

When his sandwiches began getting popular at Greys, Downing pitched the idea to open a sandwich shop to Jeanes and O’Brien. He said if they were going to open one, now was the time. That was more than two years ago. “We’ve been putting our minds together and finding a space and getting it built up.”

Architects John Halford and Patrick Brown of cnct design helped everything come together. “I was looking for a place to do something and I stumbled across this with John.”

Halford told Downing about his building, which once housed the old Escape Alley bar. “The building was abandoned and completely cinder-blocked up.”

Downing, who frequented High Cotton Brewing Company, wanted his own place in the area. “I’ve always loved the Edge District. You’re close to everything. Especially with a sandwich shop and doing what we’re doing, there’s no one in that area doing it. You’re surrounded by hospitals and colleges. People that eat that kind of food.”

There are “four art studios” and “a couple of tattoo shops,” he says. “It’s the next cool, artsy neighborhood.”

They began working with cnct design a year ago. Brown “showed us 3-D floor plans. We just kind of gave him our vision and what we wanted to do and we all worked through it together.”

The new space is “really, really pretty inside,” he says. The interior features cobalt blue and cornsilk yellow tile floors and dark stained woodwork and shelving.

Says Brown: “The last time the building was occupied it was Escape Alley. It was a dive bar. We looked at it for years for possible tenants.”

They wanted it to be “an active space [with] food, drinks. And the tenants [being] active in the community was important for us. We got really lucky when we ran into Harrison, Cole, and Schuyler. They’ve got their hands in a lot of projects.”

He describes them as “a great group of younger, energized people” who “have an eye for what they want.”

And, he adds, “They knew they liked these vintage style diners. That’s where the checkered floors come in. Very mid-century, ’50s, ’60s, and ’70s. Darker stained woods, checkered floors. We brought in some of that lighter yellow. The canary yellow in the tile. So, looking into all those design features and bringing it into an industrial building and trying to modernize it for today’s world was pretty much the main scope.”

Kinfolk went with the “old-school diner” look, Downing says. Hard Times Deli went with the “old-school sandwich shops” look.

The name Hard Times Deli came from the three owners going through hard times, including “trying to run restaurants for other people,” he says, adding, “The industry is rough. Long hours. Not a lot of pay.”

They also have been getting used to becoming “new dads,” Downing says. “All of us are pretty new to the married game and new to the dad game.”

The restaurant, which will feature lunch every day except Sunday, will seat 40 inside. It’s too small to do live music inside, but when the weather gets nicer, outdoor events with music can be held in the spacious parking lot, Downing says. “And if it’s 6 and people are still hanging out, we’ll keep slinging food.”

Helping him in the kitchen will be Bailey Patterson and Cody Boswell. “We’re all sandwich artists here,” says Downing. “All of us have done crazy food.”

Transforming the old building, which previously was “an eyesore,” is helping to improve Memphis. “We want to be a part of making the city better.”

And this won’t be the only Hard Times Deli location, Downing says. “We are looking to grow. I’m kind of building this model. Making it scalable. We’d like to get multiple businesses open. And we have other concepts in the works.” 

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WE SAW YOU: Graceland’s ‘90 For 90 Exhibit’

Elvis fans turned out in chilly weather to pay homage to their King.

Though it was the day after Elvis’ 90th birthday on January 8th, out-of-town fans remained in Memphis and visited the various exhibits, including the new “90 for 90 Exhibit,” which features Elvis clothing and other memorabilia and artifacts.

The birthday celebration, which ran through January 11th, included a birthday cake, a Proclamation Day Ceremony, live concerts at the Graceland Soundstage, dance parties, special tours, and panel discussions.

A threat of snow, which became a reality January 10th, apparently didn’t deter the loyal fans. The only snow the truly avid fans probably had on their minds was — according to Google — “When the Snow Is on the Roses,” which Elvis sang in a live concert in 1970; “Snowbird,” which he covered in 1970; and “On a Snowy Christmas Night,” which the King recorded in 1971. 

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Jake Behnke Takes the Helm at Belle Meade Social

Jake Behnke is heating up the kitchen at Belle Meade Social.

Behnke, 33, who became executive chef a year ago January at the restaurant at 518 Perkins Extended, is receiving praise from customers as well as his employers.

He took the job after leaving the now-closed IBIS, where he also was executive chef. “I left IBIS because business was slow,” Behnke says. “Honestly, it was nauseatingly slow. It was the type of slow where you kind of see the writing on the wall.”

But he was able to create a lot of dishes there. “The menu was absolutely eclectic at IBIS. We had Greek. I had Roman. I had Asian. I had quail dumplings: purple cabbage slaw, crispy wontons with pickled ginger.

“Some of the things I did at IBIS I’m doing at Belle Meade. Like the short rib I do is pretty much the same short rib I did there. We take it off the bone and then we run beef stock with the bones and trimming for about 18 hours. We take the meat and we get a good sear on it with just salt, pepper, and olive oil. And then we braise the meat with a classic mirepoix: carrots, celery, bay leaf, thyme, all that. 

“But the nuances that make it ours are the addition of Worcestershire and soy sauce, ginger, tomato, and jalapeños. All that goes into the braise, so the short ribs are taking on those characteristics.”

Executive chef Jake Behnke added the short rib and beet carpaccio to the menu. (Photos: Courtesy Jake Behnke)

Describing another dish he brought over from IBIS, Behnke says, “I used to do a smoked chicken thigh with the twice-baked sweet potato and the blistered green beans.”

But, he says, “The chicken is no longer like the smoked chicken, though. I now do a citrus-and-herb chicken.”

Behnke was given “full autonomy over the kitchen” at Belle Meade Social. “For a chef, that’s a big deal. You want room to express yourself.”

He likes the fact he can make whatever type food from any region instead of sticking to only one type of dish. “I would never want to be a chef at a barbecue joint or an Italian restaurant.”

A few things, including the spinach dip and the steak and noodle salad have remained from the old Belle Meade Social menu. “None of those have changed dramatically, but they’ve been improved.”

Behnke’s creations for Belle Meade Social include his beet carpaccio. “It’s roasted beets sliced thin. And we shingle them on the plate, going around the edges with beets and arugula pesto. And we do a spritz of red wine vinegar and then feta cheese, toasted almonds, and fresh dill over the top.”

He also uses beets in his seared salmon with risotto dish. “How many places can you go where they feature beets on the menu?”

As for what’s coming up on the menu, Behnke says, “My next push for menu changes is going to be family-focused salads and desserts.”

Belle Meade Social’s current grilled chicken salad comes with pineapple, peanut sauce, and a wine vinaigrette. “The honey lime vinaigrette is now too sweet, in my opinion. I’m going to use all the components but just retool it.”

He plans to make a grilled chicken and pineapple kabob, which will go over the salad. “Instead of tortilla strips over the top,” he says, “I’m rolling around the idea of doing a tortilla bowl.”

Behnke will rub the inside of the bowl with spicy peanut butter powder. “So, it’s basically the same flavor combinations, just applied differently to kind of elevate the look and the experience of eating it.”

He also plans to add some dairy-free, gluten-free vegan desserts. “There’s just not enough of that stuff out there.”

Behnke wowed Belle Meade Social owner Paul Stephens and manager Chad Weatherly when he arrived for his interview. They asked him to make something for them. So, he made fresh focaccia bread; an arugula, strawberry, bleu cheese, and candied nuts salad; a butternut squash bisque; short ribs; a Yukon Gold and sweet potato gratin with garlic cream; and, for dessert, an orange and tarragon crème brûlée and a mixed berry cobbler. “I did a seven-course meal in three hours,” Behnke says. “I just wanted to show them my chops.”

He says, “Those are all things that have skill, method, technique, and finesse all wrapped up in them.”

Behnke knew if he was “to be able to juggle all those” along with “time management,” he would impress the higher-ups.

He did. Benhnke was offered the job on the spot.

A native Memphian, Behnke studied at the Chef Academy Italy in Terni, Italy. His first restaurant job was a dishwasher at The Grove Grill, where he later became a pantry cook. He also worked at the old Interim, Acre, Restaurant Iris, and Sweet Grass restaurants.

Ryan Trimm, who worked at The Grove Grill before opening his own restaurants, including Sweet Grass, was one of his mentors, Behnke says. “Ryan taught me a lot of the basics: cutting, chopping. And he also taught me about the mother sauces.”

He adds, “Ryan also taught me whole hog butchering, charcuterie, and pickling.”

Trimm has played an important role in Behnke’s job as executive chef at Belle Meade Social. “Anything I do there is always an influence from him.”

But maybe one of the most important lessons Behnke learned from the veteran chef was Trimm’s motto: “Proper preparation prevents piss-poor performance.” 

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

FOOD NEWS BITES: Mahogany Memphis to Close in February

Mahogany Memphis in Chickasaw Oaks Mall is closing in late February, says owner Carlee McCullough.

But her other restaurant, Mahogany River Oaks, will remain open.

Mahogany Memphis is “only open for special events through February 28th,” McCullough says.

Discussing the closing, she says, “I said, ‘You know what? Let me close it and focus all my energy on River Terrace,” adding, “We were doing everything we could to drive traffic to it. But it just wasn’t there. Once we opened up River Terrace, everybody’s there.”

Mahogany Memphis, which is at 3092 Poplar Avenue Number 11, opened in November 2018. It features “upscale Southern with a dash of Creole.”

Mahogany River Terrace, which opened in October on Mud Island, features “upscale Southern with a dash of Creole, and with an emphasis on seafood.”