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Eyesores

Putting together an “Eyesores” issue isn’t as easy as you might think.

After all, where do you even start — or, more accurately, stop? Vast areas of North and South Memphis are almost painful to look at: blocks and blocks of abandoned buildings and decaying industrial sites. And it’s not just confined to regions outside the expressway loop. Urban blight pops up like acne throughout Midtown, East Memphis, Hickory Hill, and beyond.

But to qualify for an eyesore, we decided to focus on specific sites or buildings that stood out from their surroundings — properties that, if improved or even removed — would surely make a difference to their neighbors.

Some things, it seems, never change. We looked at eyesores several years ago in the Flyer, and it was disturbing how many of those properties could have made the current list. The Sterick Building, for one, should earn a Lifetime Under-Achievement Award, since the downtown landmark once proclaimed “The Showplace of the South” has steadily decayed for the past 30 years or so, and in the current economic climate, we don’t expect that situation to improve anytime soon.

But sometimes we find glimmers of light among the ruins. The old Lowenstein/Rhodes-Jennings Building — a Main Street structure so decrepit that barriers were erected around it to shield pedestrians from falling debris — reopened several months ago as newly renovated condos.

So there is always hope, and we present the Eyesores of 2009 with that thought in mind: Boy, these places are ugly, but somebody, somewhere, may be able to make them useful, profitable, and even beautiful again.

1)Celebration Station

I-40 and Sycamore View

by Michael Finger

Celebration Station

Memphians may know how to have a good time, but we sure don’t like paying for it. Entertainment complexes don’t survive in this city. Old-timers can remember long-gone places like Rainbow Lake and Al’s Golfdom, and more recent losses include Skateland, Maywood, Adventure River, Malibu Grand Prix Raceway, and Jillians. (And let’s not forget Libertyland; see below.)

When Celebration Station opened in 1993, it was sensory overload for the thousands of visitors who packed the seven-acre complex day and night. Outside, the place offered two miniature golf courses with brightly painted castles and other elaborate obstacles, a spacious pool filled with bumper-boats equipped with outboard motors (when you grew weary of smacking into other boats, you just turned the motor 90 degrees and put yourself into a vertigo-inducing spin), and a figure-eight concrete race track, complete with an arched bridge and powerful Honda-engined go-karts.

Indoors held a food court, rows of old-timey Skeeball lanes, all sorts of coin-operated arcade games and rides, and private rooms for birthday parties and other events. But then it all came grinding to a stop. In 2001, the owners closed the park for the season, and if they ever reopened, no one noticed. People driving along the expressway surely wondered why it was dark and quiet, and every day, it seemed, the grounds attracted more trash and graffiti. Today, Celebration Station is a depressing shell of its former self. The go-kart tracks remain, but the bumper-car pool is filled with scummy water, and there’s not a trace of the miniature golf courses. A faded sign still beckons, in a mocking way, “Open 24 Hours.”

2)Clayborn Temple

280 Hernando

by Michael Finger

Celebration Station

For better or worse, three landmarks from the American civil rights movement are located in Memphis: the National Civil Rights Museum, Mason Temple, and Clayborn Temple. The first two look a whole lot better than the last one.

The authors of Memphis: An Architectural Guide, perpetuate an urban myth by saying, “In this building, Martin Luther King Jr. gave his ‘I have been to the mountaintop’ speech before he was assassinated.” No, they’re wrong about that; King gave that speech at Mason Temple (just south of Crump Blvd.) on the evening of April 3, 1968. But they are correct when they say this building — constructed in 1892 as Second Presbyterian Church — “is one of the most imposing churches in the city.”

In the 1960s, Clayborn Temple served as a rallying ground for many civil rights demonstrations, and it was often the starting point for protest marches to City Hall. As late as the 1980s, it was still used as a sanctuary, but the years have taken their toll. Membership declined, and it didn’t help when the church pastor resigned amid allegations of rape and battery. “Clayborn has just had problems all around,” said a leader of the AME Church in Atlanta, which owns the property.

In the late 1990s, construction of FedExForum directly across Linden supposedly weakened the rear wall of the old church, and an unstable wing had to be demolished. At one point the Memphis City Council appropriated $150,000 to help restore the building, but the money was rescinded after complicated legal arguments about the separation of church and state. And so for years, it has stood as you see it here, its sturdy grey stonework set off by peeling white plywood.

3)Ambassador Hotel

345 S. Main

by Michael Finger

Clayborn Temple

Early in the 1900s, South Main was a beehive of activity, lined with family-owned businesses, shops, and small industries. Union Station and Central Station brought hundreds of visitors and tradesmen into the district, and many of them needed affordable places to stay, so small hotels and rooming houses opened up on just about every block.

The Ambassador was one of the largest of these medium-budget hotels, a sprawling place that originally occupied three separate buildings. One of those structures burned to the ground years ago, and another fronting on Vance has been converted into nice condominiums. The main hotel structure on South Main closed in the mid-1970s and has remained vacant ever since. In 1997, Memphis Heritage put the Ambassador Hotel on its list of the top 11 most endangered sites in Memphis, but that didn’t inspire any action except to board up the windows.

Over the years, a series of developers have announced they would transform the old building into a thing of beauty, usually in the form of shops or condos, but so far that hasn’t happened. Just about every building on this stretch of South Main has been revamped except this one. The exterior still looks decent, but vandals and vagrants who have crept inside have made a shambles of the interior.

4)Trousseau

1775 Union

by Michael Finger

Ambassador Hotel

It stands like a gray ghost along Union Avenue, a relic from a bygone age that really wasn’t so long ago. As recently as the 1960s, women who wanted the finest fashions in town didn’t flock to the suburban malls — for the simple reason those malls didn’t exist. Instead, they shopped at high-quality stores downtown and in Midtown, and Trousseau was one in an exclusive group that included Helen of Memphis, Minor Francis, Julius Lewis, and others. But when the malls opened, the boutique shops were doomed. Most of them were demolished; the once-proud Helen of Memphis is now a parking lot for Rite Aid.

Trousseau, which opened in 1949 and moved to the present location in 1974, closed in 2001 when the owners opened a new location in East Memphis (which closed a few years later). The empty building on Union is practically surrounded by parking for its next-door neighbor, Schnucks, which badly needs more space, so it’s just a matter of time before the old lady comes tumbling down.

5)Quality Inn

271 W. Alston

by Michael Finger

Trousseau

Developers constantly tout “location, location, location,” and in the 1960s, a motel facing the main highway leading into Memphis from Arkansas probably seemed like a great idea. Opened in 1967, the 150-room Quality Inn did a booming business — for a while. But just a few years later, the new Hernando DeSoto Bridge stretched across the Mississippi River, and most of those travelers switched to I-40. Tourist business along Crump Blvd. slowed to a crawl, the Quality Inn declined, and the building finally closed in the 1970s.

The good news is that the property is in the hands of developer Lauren Crews, who is presently transforming a derelict landmark nearby, the old U.S. Marine Hospital, into upscale residences. “That motel building stands at the gateway, so to speak, for our other developments,” says Crews, “so we certainly want to do something with it.” For a while, the fate of the property seemed in limbo, since the Tennessee Department of Transportation is looking at ways to improve the Crump Blvd./Riverside Drive/Memphis-Arkansas Bridge interchange (a confusing mess for anyone who’s tried to find the National Ornamental Metal Museum), but Crews says that the two options now on the TDOT table will spare the old motel.

“It may look awful from the outside, but it’s a solid concrete building and actually in good shape,” Crews says. “It’s got a great layout and could be easily converted into condos, apartments, or even back into a motel, for that matter.”

6)Medical Center Tower

Madison and Pauline

by Michael Finger

Quality Inn

This is an oddity — one of the city’s eyesores that many people don’t really notice — until they look up and see the empty 19-story building looming overhead, looking quite forlorn. The Medical Center Tower opened in the 1960s as a Holiday Inn, complete with a seven-story parking garage on the lower floors, a nice restaurant, and a swimming pool on the roof. The motel closed in 1989 and sat dormant for several years. In 1995 developers announced they would renovate the structure and reopen it as a smaller Holiday Inn, with some of the lower floors devoted to office space. Well, that never happened, and a year later The Commercial Appeal reported that the building’s status was “murky.”

Over the years, other developers pondered using the building as apartments and offices, but they never did anything about it. Finally, in 2005, the Memphis Bioworks Foundation purchased the property for $500,000 and announced they would tear it down to make more space available for UT Baptist Research Park. No date has been set for its demolition, but we hope they bring it down with a blast of dynamite as they did with the old Baptist Hospital. That was so cool.

7)Libertyland

E. Parkway and Central

by Michael Finger

Medical Center Tower

Libertyland opened in 1976 as “America’s Bicentennial Theme Park.” In addition to rides and midway games, there was a miniature Statue of Liberty and a truncated Independence Hall. Visitors could explore Mark Twain’s Island, get splashed in the log-flume ride, ice-skate in an open-air pavilion, and — you’d generally save this for last — ride the famous Zippin Pippin, supposedly the oldest wooden roller coaster in America.

Across the country, though, children and their families seemed to lose interest in these little homespun amusement parks, lured away by Disney World, “fun line” cruise ships, and other vacation destinations. One by one, the smaller places closed, and Libertyland soon joined the list, as developers announced plans for a better location for the Mid-South Fair and a more profitable use (they hoped) for the property occupied by what one of our colleagues called “Little-Bitty Land.”

The closing of Libertyland was quite a mess. Owners of an amusement park in North Carolina somehow ended up with the entire Zippin Pippin when they wanted to purchase just a few of its cars (especially the one favored by Elvis Presley). Before they could dismantle the thing, however, the city stepped in and declared that sale invalid, but not before just about every other piece of the park that could be removed was auctioned off.

Today the old park should be called Lonelyland. Although Friends of Libertyland bemoan its fate, Henry Turley, developer of Harbor Town and Uptown, among other grand ventures, and a group of investors have unveiled plans for Fair Ground, an ambitious project that would also embrace the aging Liberty Bowl Memorial Stadium and the now-closed Mid-South Coliseum. The only thing they are waiting on is the same thing that is holding up many projects: money.

8)Frisco and Harahan Bridges

Mississippi River

by Michael Finger

Libertyland

When it opened in 1892, the Frisco Bridge was an engineering marvel — the longest bridge in North America and the third-longest span in the world. It only carried one set of railroad tracks, though, so it was joined in 1916 by the Harahan Bridge, which not only carried more trains but also featured one of the scariest travel adventures in the country. A narrow, wooden roadway was suspended from each side of the bridge, just a low railing separating nervous drivers from the Mississippi River far below. An unexpected hazard was revealed in 1928, when sparks from a passing train set those planks afire. Though the roadways were eventually rebuilt, the automobile traffic dilemma wasn’t really resolved until the Memphis-Arkansas Bridge opened in 1949.

by Michael Finger

Harahan Bridge

All three bridges are still in use today, the Frisco and Harahan carrying freight trains on a daily basis. They were so sturdily constructed that they will probably stand for another century. But they sure look like hell, don’t they? The ownership of a railroad bridge can be a complicated mess — often a joint venture between the states and the various railroads who use it — but would it really be that much trouble to slap a coat of silver paint on these things every 10 years or so?

9)Chicago Pizza Factory

Madison, near Overton Square

by Michael Finger

Frisco Bridge

When it opened in 1970, Overton Square was the city’s premier entertainment district, a grouping of some 30 shops, clubs, and restaurants. Centered around the intersection of Madison and Cooper, the district soon stretched down the street and eventually included this building, which opened in 1972 as Sweet Caroline’s and later changed its name to the Chicago Pizza Factory. Overton Square eventually lost much of its appeal, and this business locked its doors in 1989, but the building has remained something of a time capsule. Peer through the windows, and you’d think it closed last night. Tables and chairs, complete with salt and pepper shakers and napkin holders, are still inside, as if diners had just stepped away. The owner, contacted numerous times by potential buyers, steadfastly refuses to sell the property.

10)Chisca Hotel

272 S. Main

by Michael Finger

Chicago Pizza Factory

Old-timers don’t have any trouble listing downtown’s “grand” hotels: Peabody, Gayoso, King Cotton, and even Wm. Len. Then there were the “second-tier” properties, such as Chisca. An imposing structure with nice stained-glass details here and there, it mainly catered to businessmen working in the South Main area. The authors of Memphis: An Architectural Guide dismiss it, commenting that “it was clearly built on the cheap; there is little here that is not strictly utilitarian.” Maybe so, but anyone who held high school formals here in the 1960s and ’70s thought the old Chisca was something special. And it has a historic importance, too, for radio station WHBQ was located off the lobby. It was from here that deejay Dewey Phillips conducted the first on-air interview with a young singer named Elvis Presley.

Like most downtown hotels, the Chisca closed in the 1970s. The property and a newer addition called the Chisca Plaza Motor Court were purchased by the Church of God in Christ, which has made part of the building their headquarters. Unfortunately, the church has allowed the main structure to deteriorate, and upstairs windows have been open to the elements — and pigeons — for years.

11)Third Street Post Office

555 S. Third

by Michael Finger

Chisca Hotel

Not all eyesores are old or abandoned buildings. The post office on Third Street makes our list mainly because we are still bitter about what it replaced — Union Station, complete with domes and arches and tiles and all sorts of wonderful ornamentation, a place the authors of Memphis: An Architectural Guide called “the finest Beaux Arts structure ever built in Memphis.” That came tumbling down in the late 1960s, when travelers took to the skies instead of the rails, and it was replaced by … this.

In the past, public buildings, especially big-city post offices, were grand edifices, with soaring entrances, marble concourses, and other adornments. But this is neither an impressive nor inviting structure. It’s a brutal-looking, top-heavy fortress, three floors of “bushhammered concrete.” Its main entrance is a dinky pair of aluminum doors that lead to a bare parking lot, and everything about the building says, “Go away.” It just makes our eyes hurt to look at it.

by Michael Finger

Third Street Post Office

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Cover Feature News

On Target?

It’s 9 p.m. on a Monday, and I’m standing in Bay 2 at Rangemaster. Impact-resistant eyeglasses cover my regular glasses, and foam-cushioned earmuffs dampen the sound of the pistols fired around me to a gentle POP POP POP.

I’m at the “ready” position, just as I’ve been instructed — leaning forward with my weight on the balls of my feet, gripping my 9mm Beretta with both hands, my finger off the trigger, the barrel angled toward the floor. Over an intercom, the instructor barks, “Okay, I want you to take one shot and one shot only. UP!”

I raise the pistol, aligning the rear sight notch with the front sight until the barrel points dead-center at the vaguely human silhouette printed on the paper target just 10 feet away. With a steady squeeze, I pull the trigger until — BLAM! — the gun jumps in my hand and a ragged hole appears an inch below the target’s “heart.” It’s a good shot, and I’m happy. I won’t have any trouble passing the shooting portion of the handgun carry permit class. It’s the written test I’m worried about.

School Begins

I’ve been around guns since I was a kid, mainly plinking away with .22 rifles at cans and other inanimate targets. I was considered a crack shot by my friends, but as I got older, I sold my guns and turned to other, quieter hobbies. But a few months ago, I reasoned that — living in Memphis and all — it wouldn’t be a bad idea to carry a pistol when my job took me into “interesting” parts of town. And so I decided to get a handgun carry permit.

Here’s the procedure: You first have to take a state-certified course in handgun safety before submitting your application. A number of places and people around town teach these classes, but I went with Rangemaster on Mendenhall because I had seen their little target decals on car windows.

The “Basic Personal Protection Course” costs $99, which gets you a 26-page workbook, ammunition, targets, and range time. Classes are either eight hours on one day or four hours on two consecutive days. The two-day option was available, and on this evening in March I found myself at Rangemaster with 19 other students.

I didn’t know who might sign up for these classes, but with my unruly hair and penchant for Harley-Davidson shirts, I was probably the scruffiest fellow in the class. My classmates included a twentysomething woman who worked in advertising sales for another publication in town, several women who struck me as Germantown housewives, and several fellows a bit older than me. Everybody looked so … normal.

Raving gun nuts don’t bother with handgun carry permits, I gathered.

Safety is a major issue at Rangemaster. We could bring our own weapons, or they would furnish Glocks for us. I preferred to use my own gun, and as soon as I walked in with my unloaded Beretta, the Rangemaster crew took it, put masking tape with my name on the handle, and carefully stored it away. I wouldn’t see it again until we got on the range.

Other students began to file into the Rangemaster lobby, and everyone was quiet and strangely subdued. It was almost like we were embarrassed to be doing this. Nobody discussed politics (a hot issue in the gun world), bragged about hunting, or even talked about their guns.

Promptly at 6 p.m., we filed into a classroom and settled behind four rows of long tables. Posters on gun safety and operation were prominently displayed around the room, and an odd assortment of objects — including fake guns, a plastic knife, and a banana — was piled on a table at the front.

Our instructor introduced himself as John Parker, a former security officer with the U.S. Air Force. He was an affable fellow, all right, but it was clear that he meant business. Around his waist was a heavy belt that held a Glock in a leather holster, a pair of extra magazines, a flashlight, and a pepper-gas dispenser. He later told us that he was, in fact, carrying two other weapons that evening, though we couldn’t tell where.

The class is a combination of personal instruction by people like Parker, interspersed with a series of videos hosted by Tom Givens, the chief instructor at Rangemaster, a fellow with so many firearms qualifications that it takes an entire page to list them in the class workbook. Parker explained that we had a lot to cover — too much, really — in just two days, so there would be no time for anyone to ask questions.

The first thing he did was ask how many people had never fired a gun before, and almost one-third of the class raised their hands. Then we got started by talking about gun safety, a topic that was never far off the table. “All guns are always loaded” was one mantra that we were told to memorize, as was “Never point your gun at anything you don’t intend to destroy.” Not wound or kill. Destroy.

We watched videos that explained the two basic types of pistols, how they operate, and their advantages for self-defense. Revolvers are easy to use, we learned, but they tend to be bulky, they don’t hold a lot of ammo, and they’re hard to reload. Only one person in the class, it turned out, had a revolver.

Semi-automatic pistols, which fire one shot with each pull of the trigger, are a better choice. They can hold as many as 17 rounds in the magazine, and then it’s a simple matter to remove the empty clip and load another.

All this firepower is important because, Parker explained, “It’s not like in the movies. When you shoot a bad guy, he’s not going to fly backward and crash through a plate-glass window.” In fact, depending on the ammo, he may keep coming toward you even after he’s been shot — plenty of time for him to still shoot or stab you. In guns, we learned, size does matter.

A target used to qualify for a handgun carry permit

Other videos showed us the different types and sizes of ammunition, how to pick out a high-quality firearm, and how to select a holster. After all, even with a carry permit, you can’t strap on a pistol and walk down the street. That makes the police very nervous. The gun has to be concealed — usually by tucking it away in a special holster that fits inside the waistband of your pants or skirt.

The whole point of all this early instruction was to help us find a gun that would do the job when it was needed, a weapon that would be (and here’s another mantra): “wearable, user-friendly, reliable, and effective.”

Parker then walked us through a wide range of real-life scenarios, the purpose being to show us that — despite our handgun permits — we were NOT police officers, and we couldn’t shoot people — or even shoot at people — just because we felt like it. If anything, we were told again and again to avoid confrontations whenever possible.

He presented one tricky situation that stuck with me: You’re alone at home and you hear a window shatter. You pull out your trusty Smith & Wesson and venture downstairs. In the living room, you spot an intruder, so you bring him down with a couple of shots (again: one shot will almost never do the trick). But then you spot another guy, and he raises his hands and says, “I surrender! You got my buddy there, but don’t shoot me.”

What to do? You don’t know if the first guy is dead, or just faking, and how do you hold your gun on another assailant — who may or may not be pretending to surrender — while you fumble with a phone call to the police? Parker said, “You tell that guy to get out the way he came in — through the window if he has to. You want that threat out of your way. Let the police catch him. That’s their job, not yours. Then you hold your gun on the first guy until the police arrive.”

And if you’re ever involved in a shooting, he says, always clearly identify yourself to the police. The cops will have only seconds to assess the situation when they arrive, and they may decide that the main threat is the guy still holding the gun, and that’s just too bad if it happens to be you.

So that’s how most of the class went. We followed basic rules and guidelines in our workbook, while Parker and Givens illustrated them with real-life stories. Some instructions surprised us. For one, don’t fire a warning shot. “A warning shot fired into the air will come down and hit somebody. A warning shot fired into the ground can ricochet,” Parker said. “But the main reason? A warning shot tells the bad guy that you really don’t want to shoot him.”

The main lesson — and this was hammered into our heads again and again — is that you can’t fire a weapon at somebody unless — and this is the direct quote from the workbook — you face “a type or degree of force that would be reasonably expected to cause death or serious bodily injury.” You can’t shoot somebody who simply angers or threatens you. The recent incident in the Trinity Commons parking lot, where one fellow allegedly shot another after an argument about their SUVs, was brought up as a perfect example of what not to do. “From what I understand, the threat was over,” Parker said. “That guy should have walked away.”

After two hours or so, we took a break out in the lobby. A few of my classmates mentioned offhandedly why they were taking the class. Two kinds of fear motivated them. Most wanted to protect themselves: “I just want something to carry in my purse,” one woman said, and another said, “My father wanted me to carry a gun.” But one fellow said, “I don’t know if this is true, but I’ve heard Obama is going to do away with carry permits unless you’re already grandfathered in.” In other words, get one now while you still can.

Range Masters

After we filed back into class, we learned that we would be shooting real guns that night, not just aiming the plastic ones that had been passed around the class. Students were grouped into pairs. I was B-2, matched with another fellow whom I knew only as A-2. We would share Bay 2 inside the range.

Like schoolchildren going to recess, we lined up at the range door and picked up our “eyes and ears” — the protective goggles and earmuffs. We still didn’t have guns. Once inside, Parker went over the basic rules of range safety, because things can indeed become dangerous very quickly when bullets are flying: Always keep your weapon pointed down-range. Don’t load or unload your weapon until you are instructed to do so. If you have a jam or any problem at all, raise your free hand (the one not holding the gun), and signal for help. And so on. We got the message.

The shooting range is a cavernous concrete chamber. Across the back are shooting bays — 10 booths separated by what I presumed were bulletproof walls — open at the front and back. A low shelf across the front of each bay holds your gun and ammo and keeps people — and you know somebody would do this — from walking toward their target while people are still shooting. A bench along the back wall lets the other shooters relax out of harm’s way.

The paper targets are clipped to a pair of steel cables. An electric toggle switch in each bay brings the target toward you for changing and then carries it back to the firing line. Signs everywhere warn you how much you will pay if you miss the target — accidentally or on purpose — and shoot away the cable or other working parts of the range.

The 10 members of group A stepped into their bays, while the “B” folks waited their turn on the benches. Each student’s pistol lay on the shelf in front of them, along with a box containing 25 rounds of ammo. Parker had everyone first go through “dry” firing — with the magazine removed, just holding their gun in the ready position, then raising it to the “up” position for firing — over and over until our arms ached.

Finally, it was time for some real shooting. Other instructors in the range showed us how to load six, and only six, rounds in the magazine — a fingernail-breaking process since it involved forcing bullets past a heavy spring in the clip. Parker shouted, “Ready!” We stood with pistols pointed downrange, our fingers off the trigger. Then, “Up!” and we raised them and fired at the targets 10 feet away. Even the people in class who said they had never fired a gun before hit the target. And so it went for the rest of the night, firing one shot at a time until the clip was empty. Placing your gun on the shelf and sitting down so the next group could do the same. Then firing two shots at a time, reloading, and firing three-shot bursts.

We did have a minor crisis that evening. After most of us had taken one shot, the young woman in bay 4 raised her hand. Parker said, “Cease firing. Hot in Number 4.” The woman put down her pistol and walked quickly out of the range, accompanied by an instructor. Good grief, we thought — what had happened? It turns out a red-hot cartridge ejected by her Glock had landed inside her open blouse. Ouch! Most of us buttoned our collars after that.

By the end of the evening, we were allowed to fire six shots in a row. It was tempting to just blast away, but Parker cautioned us, “Take your time. It’s about accuracy, not speed.” Then we slipped the empty magazines from the guns, put the weapon and our “eyes and ears” in a plastic tray, and filed out of the range. The first night’s lesson was over, and I drove home, my arms weary from holding the gun in the “ready” position for so long, my ears ringing, and my clothes reeking of gunpowder.

Banging Away

The next night, promptly at 6, we gathered again in the range. After getting to shoot 20 or so practice rounds, we were handed new targets, again with the human silhouette on them. An X on the target marked the heart, and vital areas in the chest, head, and groin were outlined. As much as everyone wanted to try a clean head shot, we were told to aim at the X in the chest.

This time accuracy was more important, because this was the qualifying test — 50 shots, in groups of three until we ran out of ammo — and each one had to hit the target. I carefully aimed my Beretta at the “Up” command and slowly pulled the trigger. The gun kicked in my hand, but I didn’t see a hole in my target’s “heart.” Not even close. Instead, I had hit the “guy” close to the groin. What the …?

“You anticipated the recoil and probably ‘pulled it’ at the last second,” said the instructor standing behind me. “It’s okay. You still managed to get his femoral artery.” For the next shot, I relaxed and this time put my target out of its misery by firing shot after shot directly into the box on his chest. If that had been a “bad guy” he would be very dead indeed.

A target used to qualify for a handgun carry permit

Shooting over, we washed the gunshot residue (“GSR” in all the CSI-type television shows) off our hands and trooped back into the classroom for some last-minute instructions. Again, Parker emphasized that firing a gun was a no-other-alternative situation. Even if the cops didn’t arrest you, lawyers were ready with all kinds of civil lawsuits. It simply had to be a life-or-death situation, and you — the fellow with that brand-new handgun carry permit — had to make that decision in a matter of seconds.

He offered another stressful scenario. Parker tossed a fake knife to a student in the back row of tables and told him to stand up. Was that student a “deadly threat” to our teacher? No. Because it would take him quite some time to get around all the chairs and tables, and Parker might — he emphasized might — be able to get away without killing anybody.

But then he had the knife-holder move into the aisle, and Parker also moved into the aisle, still standing about 30 feet away. Now, was the fellow a deadly threat? Yes. “A man can run that distance in as little as two seconds. He can stab me before I can get a shot off.” So in this case, the only course of action would be to shoot the fellow with the knife before he could attack — a sobering thought.

Again and again, he emphasized that we had to assess the threat level before shooting. He picked up a plastic pistol and pointed it at a lady in the front row. If it were a real gun, was he a threat? Could she shoot him if he did that? We all agreed yes, and we were right.

But then he picked up a banana — yes, a banana — and did the same thing. Would the lady shoot him now? She thought about it awhile, then said, “Probably not.” We all laughed at that “probably,” but the correct answer was no. The “robber” — no matter how crazy he acted — was not a threat armed with a banana.

Midway through the evening, Parker reeled off sobering statistics about the level of crime in Memphis: rapes, murders, and aggravated assaults. Then he said something odd: “Do you know what aggravated assaults are? They are really attempted murder, but a certain group of people in this country didn’t like the sound of that, so they changed the term to aggravated assault. Yes, I’m talking about liberals.”

Huh? Liberals? I began to raise my hand to protest but remembered we weren’t supposed to ask questions. And I also remembered an unspoken rule of firearm safety: Never argue with a man holding a gun. Or, in Parker’s case, three of them.

Putting It in Writing

Finally, it was time for the written test. We had heard rumors that it was 50 questions, or 100 questions, or all fill-in-the-blank. Whatever, the test was hard. In reality, we tackled 35 questions, some fill-in-the-blanks based on the basic rules we had studied the night before (“_____ guns are ______ loaded”). Others were multiple-choice questions: “A semi-automatic handgun: a. fires once with each pull of the trigger, b. has a magazine, c. has one chamber, d. all of the above.” Not exactly brain teasers.

The last two questions asked us about our favorite radio stations, so I don’t think they actually counted. The whole thing took about 15 minutes. When it was over, Parker gave away a secret that some of us had already noticed: “Yesterday I told you that you always had to be aware of your surroundings. Well, you could find every single answer on the test by just looking at the posters on the walls of this room.” And so you could.

Every person in the class passed the shooting and written tests that night. We were given certificates and little Rangemaster decals to put on our cars. But as the evening came to an end, Parker warned us, in no uncertain terms, that taking this class did not prepare us for a gunfight in the real world, where the targets were often shooting back at you. To prepare yourself for those dire situations, Rangemaster offered other classes, such as “Tactical Pistol” and “Defensive Shotgun.” They even offer a “Vehicle Defense / Anti-Carjacking” course.

When it was over, I confess I was surprised — and impressed. Even though all the instructors were trained and certified by the National Rifle Association, they never pushed NRA membership on us. They never harped about the Second Amendment. They never asked who we voted for. And except for a few vague digs about liberals, they never commented or complained about that Obama fellow who was going to take everyone’s guns away. Some students did, but not the instructors.

Waiting Period

Completing the Rangemaster class was just the first step in the complicated process of earning a handgun carry permit. You have to take your certificate, along with a passport or birth certificate, to one of the Tennessee driver’s testing centers to apply for the permit. Anyone who has ever applied for a driver’s license knows what an ordeal that is. After more than an hour wait, I met with a clerk and affirmed that I was not a convicted felon and had no plans to overthrow the U.S. government. They don’t just take your word for it; that’s why the application process takes 90 days. And don’t even think about paying the $115 permit fee with a check or credit card. It’s cash only or a certified check.

But there’s more. Next comes the fingerprinting, taken at locations around town that offer digital fingerprinting services. Finally, you’re done.

So let’s see: eight-hour class, target shooting, written test, certificate, application, birth certificate, photograph, and fingerprinting. Total cost: $205. Getting a handgun carry permit is a long, expensive, and complicated process. But while I’m waiting three months (and probably more) for the permit, I suppose I’ll take some target-shooting classes — and hope that the only thing I ever shoot is made out of paper.

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Flyer Flashback News

Flyer Flashback

Last week’s cover story by John Branston spotlighted the Stanford Financial Group: “An international financial scam burns Memphis investors, nonprofits, and politicians.”

Well, not much has changed in 15 years. The March 3, 1994, issue of the Flyer included a story — yep, by John Branston — headlined “Prominent Memphians Caught up in Alleged Texas Scam.” The whole mess sounds depressingly familiar:

“Several prominent Memphians are trying to recover over $1 million they invested with a Houston socialite accused of operating a Ponzi scheme. Teresa Rodriguez was known as one of the sharpest business operators in Houston. She played on her ethnic background and political savvy to get business for her employment-contracts firm. Contracts from the Small Business Administration were supposedly so plentiful and profitable that Rodriguez could pay investors a 10 to 20 percent return per month.”

Just one problem: “Rodriguez was not registered as a minority contractor and had never received any SBA contracts.”

Memphians caught unawares included a former president of Union Planters Bank, a vice president of the Sara Lee Corporation, and the CEO of Le Bonheur Healthcare Systems, who lost every cent of their investment when Rodriguez’ house of cards came tumbling down.

As we went to press 15 years ago, investors had filed a lawsuit to recover their losses. Rodriguez eventually went to prison for mail fraud.

Michael Finger

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News The Fly-By

Remembering Natalee

On Thursday, February 5th, more than 300 people filled the gymnasium at Rossville Christian Academy to hear Beth Holloway talk about her daughter, Natalee, who vanished May 30, 2005, during a school trip to the Caribbean island of Aruba.

The 18-year-old’s disappearance sparked a media frenzy, and Beth Holloway began her talk by bluntly stating what she believed happened to her daughter almost four years ago: “Natalee was kidnapped, raped, and killed. She went there to have fun, but she ran into others who had a different agenda.”

According to police investigations, Natalee was last seen in the company of three young men on the evening of May 30th. Her school group was supposed to return to her hometown of Mountain Brook, Alabama, the following morning, but the young woman didn’t show. That morning, said Holloway, “I got the call every parent would dread — one that would change my life forever.”

She and her husband immediately flew to Aruba, and a quick glance at her daughter’s hotel room, showing her clothes neatly packed and her passport on the bed, told her “something was terribly wrong.”

One problem was that the chief suspect, 17-year-old Joran van der Sloot, was the son of a prominent judge. The police claimed they didn’t have enough evidence to arrest the young man or two others also seen with Natalee that evening, “so we were left to search on our own,” Holloway said.

She and her family investigated every tip they could, including bizarre tales that Natalee had been kidnapped and sold into prostitution or was being held prisoner in one of the many island crack houses that the police pretended didn’t exist.

“The hidden underbelly of the island had been exposed,” she said, “and it wasn’t pretty.”

Holloway believes she knows what happened. She said that van der Sloot finally confessed to killing her daughter: “He gave her a shot of rum, and that produced a seizure. He then got friends to help him dump her body in the sea. We’ll never know if she was alive or not when that happened.”

The case, however, is still considered unsolved. “There is nothing I can do to get justice for Natalee,” said her mother, “because they don’t do things [in other countries] the way we do here.”

So now Holloway is speaking to groups like those who gathered at Rossville Christian Academy.

“The best way to honor Natalee,” she explained, “is by talking with students about personal safety. It’s not a safe world — not on Internet chat rooms and not on island vacations.”

Holloway recently founded an organization called TravelEd to teach personal safety to students and young men and women who travel abroad. That effort has taken her to schools in 23 states.

“You can never feel too confident or too safe,” she said. “My daughter let her guard down for a moment, and in that moment she vanished.”

Holloway ended her talk with a video tribute to her daughter and then autographed copies of her book, Loving Natalee.

“People often ask what keeps me going,” Holloway said. “The human spirit can withstand a lot — more than I ever thought possible. And I talked to Natalee and I pledged never to give up. Never.”

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News

Remembering Natalee Holloway

On Thursday evening, more than 300 people filled the gymnasium at Rossville Christian Academy to hear Beth Holloway talk about her daughter, Natalee, who vanished on the night of May 30, 2005, during a school outing to the Caribbean island of Aruba.

The 18-year-old girl’s disappearance sparked a media frenzy, and Beth Holloway began her talk by showing video clips of Barbara Walters, Geraldo Rivera, Bill O’Reilly, Nancy Grace, and even Dr. Phil. Walters began her news segment in typically dramatic fashion, calling the case “every parent’s worse nightmare: A daughter goes away on holiday and never returns.”

And this is essentially what happened to Natalee Holloway. Surrounded by ads for Collierville Screen Print, the Bank of Fayette County, Wilson Furniture, and Zellner Equipment, and facing a banner painted, “Go Lady Wolves!”, Holloway began her talk in the school gymnasium by bluntly stating what she believed happened to her daughter in Aruba three years ago: “Natalee was kidnapped, raped, and killed. She went there to have fun, but she ran into others who had a different agenda.”

According to police investigations, Natalie was last seen in the company of three young men on the evening of May 30th. More than 100 members of her school group were supposed to return to her hometown of Mountain Brook, Alabama, the following morning, but the young woman didn’t show up. That morning, says Holloway, “I got the call every parent would dread — one that would change my life forever.”

She and her husband immediately flew to Aruba, and a quick glance at her daughter’s hotel room, showing her clothes neatly packed and her passport on the bed, told her, “It was more than just intuition. I was certain that something was terribly wrong.”

One problem was that the chief suspect, 17-year-old Joran van der Sloot, was the son of a prominent judge on the island. According to Holloway, he told “more than a dozen” different accounts of what he did with the missing girl that evening, though insisting that he later dropped her off at her hotel and never saw her again.

The police claimed they didn’t have enough evidence to arrest the young man, or two others also seen with Natalee that evening, “so we were left to search on our own,” Holloway said, by putting up “KIDNAPPED” posters with her daughter’s picture, and pleading for tips and information. “It was such a paradox,” she said, “to see such natural beauty [on the island] and yet experience such horror at the same time.”

She and her family investigated every tip they could, including bizarre tales that Natalee had been kidnapped and sold into prostitution or was being held prisoner in one of the many island crack-houses that the police pretended didn’t exist. “The hidden underbelly of the island had been exposed,” she said, “and it wasn’t pretty.”

After four days without sleeping, eating, or even bathing, Holloway told the Rossville audience that she finally asked a cab driver to take her to a chapel.

“I had descended to the lowest place a human spirit could fall, but I knew Natalee wouldn’t want me to give up,” she said. “My faith in God was my only hope, and I needed to pray harder — to get someplace where God could hear me.”

She was taken to a beach on the island where someone had erected a row of crosses, and it was here, she said, “that a complete peace blanketed me. I know Natalee is with God. He wrapped his loving arms around her and helped her get through whatever ordeal she went through that night.”

Holloway said she believes she knows what happened. She said that Joran van der Sloot finally confessed to killing her daughter: “He gave her a shot of rum, and that produced a seizure. He then got friends to help him dump her body in the sea. We’ll never know if she was alive or not when that happened.”

The case, however, is still considered unsolved because — confession or not — she said the Aruban police don’t want to pursue it.

“There is nothing I can do to get justice for Natalee,” said her mother, “because they just don’t do things [in other countries] the way we do here.”

So now Holloway is speaking to groups like those who gathered at Rossville Christian Academy.

“The best way to honor Natalee,” she explained, “is by talking with students about personal safety. It’s not a safe world — not on Internet chat rooms, and not on island vacations. So don’t get yourself into situations where you can’t defend yourself.”

Holloway recently founded an organization called TravelEd, to teach personal safety to students and young men and women who travel abroad. That effort has taken her to school campuses in 23 states. She offered many tips, from being aware of your surroundings to forming a “safety circle” with friends, and noted, “You can never feel too confident or too safe. My daughter let her guard down for just a moment, and in that moment she vanished.”

Holloway concluded her hour-long talk with a video tribute to her daughter, then sat at a table in the gym and autographed more than 100 copies of her book, Loving Natalee. Everyone in the audience also picked up commemorative bookmarks and bracelets woven by Natalee’s friends, the colored strands representing “faith, hope, and love.”

“People often ask what keeps me going,” Holloway said. “The human spirit can withstand a lot — more than I ever thought possible. And I talked to Natalee and I pledged never to give up. Never.”

–Michael Finger

Categories
News

AC/DC Concert Blasts FedExForum

I know quite a few people who feel the cannons fired during “For Those About to Rock (We Salute You)” — the number that usually closes an AC/DC show — is hokey, but I happen to think it’s one of the iconic images in rock-and-roll theater.

And judging from the cheers, shouts, and wild applause from the sold-out crowd that stayed on their feet during the Australian group’s entire show at FedExForum Friday night, I guess I’m not alone.

It was a helluva concert, one that left me with my ears ringing from the sounds cranked out of a row of 10 Marshall stacks, my brain numbed by truly stunning visual effects, and my hands sore from clapping.

The show opened with a tremendous stunt — a larger than life-size locomotive, belching flames and steam, slid out from behind a curtain to complement the opening number, “Rock and Roll Train.” Add to that a four-story doll that inflated (and even tapped her foot to the beat) during “A Whole Lotta Rosie,” the huge “Hell’s Bell” that dropped from the rafters to kick off the classic song of that name, great videos (including a B-24 dropping guitars and babes from its bomb-bay doors) projected on a pair of giant screens behind the band, and then the row of six massive cannons that boom, boom, and BOOM during the band’s closing number, and you have a truly classic AC/DC concert.

The almost two-hour performance featured non-stop hits — “T.N.T.,” “You Shook Me All Night Long,” “Back in Black,” among others — from the group that’s now been touring for almost four decades, with three songs from their new album, Black Ice, thrown in just to show the band hasn’t lost its touch.

Singer Brian Johnson’s screeching vocals were actually in good form, and lead guitarist Angus Young — still wearing that schoolboy outfit at age 55 — seemed as nimble fingered as he was 20 years ago. His blistering 10-minute solo on his Gibson SG during “Let There Be Rock” not only brought almost constant applause, but a rather surreal scene, when hundreds of concert-goers suddenly whipped out their camera phones to capture him playing on an elevated platform that rose from the middle of the arena.

Johnson told the crowd, “This is for you, Memphis,” when the band cranked out “Dirty Deeds (Done Dirt Cheap),” but he really had the audience in his pocket the whole evening. Diehard fans of AC/DC surely left satisfied, and anyone not familiar with the band or their music probably left impressed. After more than 30 years, these guys can still rock with the best of them, cannons and all.

— Michael Finger

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Cover Feature News

What a way to go

How can a child drown in a fountain in a public park, in full view of people who could have rescued him? How could a grown woman tumble out the window of a downtown office building? How does a man in a house get killed by an airplane?

Our city’s cemeteries are filled with the graves of men and women, boys and girls, who have died from all manner of causes — accidents, disease, war, even suicide. But there are a few whose deaths are considerably more unusual, even mysterious — deaths that make us stop and ponder their fates, and wonder, “Gosh, what a way to go.”

As Halloween approaches, we thought we’d share their bizarre farewells from this earthly pale with you.

UNDER HEBE’S GAZE

Of all of our city’s parks, downtown’s Court Square probably seems the unlikeliest place for anybody to die by drowning. After all, it’s blocks away from the Mississippi River, and the square’s historic fountain is too shallow to be a danger. Besides, there’s a cast-iron fence around the entire basin.

But when the massive fountain was unveiled back in 1876, topped with the statue of Hebe, that octagonal basin was actually a concrete moat more than six feet deep, often stocked with catfish, turtles, and — if you can believe some accounts — a couple of alligators. And there was no fence around it. If anybody thought the showpiece of Court Square was a hazard, they never said anything about it until the afternoon of August 26, 1884.

That day, 10-year-old Claude Pugh, described as “a newsboy and small for his age,” was sitting on the stone rim of the fountain, playing with a toy boat in the water. He leaned too far over and tumbled in, and since the bottom of the fountain was sloped, and slippery from algae, he couldn’t regain his footing.

What’s incredible is that the park was filled with visitors that day who could have saved the boy, but didn’t. “There were a number of men, women, and children in the square at the time,” reported the Memphis Daily Appeal, “and not an effort was made to save him. Stalwart men did not move a muscle, but stood silently by with staring eyes and gaping mouths.”

After struggling for several minutes, Pugh slipped beneath the surface. Newspaper editors expressed their outrage at the people who witnessed the tragedy: “Their hearts must have been made of stone, and the milk of human kindness in their breasts sour whey. More consideration should have been given a dumb beast.”

When a fireman was finally called to the scene, it took him more than 15 minutes to recover the boy’s body from the water. By that time it was too late. Little Claude Pugh, “the only son of a widow of good family and her chief pride and comfort,” was buried in Elmwood Cemetery. No gravestone marks the site today.

TRAGEDY AT EADS

For 15 years, Benjamin Priddy had been driving a Shelby County school bus, picking up and dropping off students at the little schools in the Eads, Arlington, and Collierville areas. During that time, his driving record had been impeccable.

But on October 10, 1941, Priddy made a fatal error that would result in the worst school tragedy in Shelby County history.

That afternoon, he picked up a busload of kids from the George R. James Elementary School, a little schoolhouse that once stood on Collierville-Arlington Road, just west of Eads. Driving along the two-lane county roads, he had dropped off all but 17 of his young passengers, when he made a sharp turn to cross the railroad tracks that once cut through the heart of the small farming community. Although he had a clear view of the tracks at the crossing, for reasons we will never know he pulled directly into the path of an N.C. & St.L. passenger train roaring toward Memphis at 50 miles per hour.

The tremendous impact almost ripped the bus in half, tumbling the wreckage into nearby woods. Priddy was killed instantly, along with six of his passengers; many of the other children were horribly injured. In those days, few families in the county had telephones. News of the tragedy spread by word of mouth, and frantic parents rushed to the scene, piled the victims into cars and trucks, and rushed them to the nearest hospital in Memphis, more than 20 miles away. “It was one of those sights you never want to see again,” one father told the Memphis Press-Scimitar. At Baptist Hospital, other parents found themselves “in a madly revolving world suddenly but surely spinning off its axis.”

No one aboard the train was injured, and investigators struggled to make sense of the accident. The engineer claimed the bus never slowed as it approached the crossing. Some of the children said they yelled at Priddy to stop when they saw the train hurtling toward them, but he didn’t seem to hear them.

The sheriff told reporters that Priddy had complained of a headache that morning and surmised that “he might have suffered an attack of illness.” Other townspeople conjectured that after driving this same route for 15 years and never encountering a train at Eads, Priddy had probably felt he didn’t need to stop there. On this fateful day, though, the train was running 20 minutes late, and the timing couldn’t have been worse.

Priddy was laid to rest in Bethel Cemetery near Collierville, and the six children were buried here and there in Shelby County. In Eads, the tracks were pulled up years ago, and the only reminder of the accident is a memorial plaque mounted high on a wall inside the town’s community center.

OUT THE WINDOW

The newspapers said Thelma Lloyd was “well-known in the interior decorating field,” and the 41-year-old woman had just returned to Memphis after working for several years with the Marshall Field Company in Chicago. On the morning of December 8, 1941, she left her house at 2258 Monroe, where she lived with her parents, and took the bus downtown to go to work at Seabrook Paint Company. Everyone who saw her that morning reported she was in “good spirits.”

She never arrived at work. After getting off the bus, she walked straight to the Medical Arts Building at 240 Madison and took the elevator to the eighth floor. The elevator operator, who later testified that Lloyd “seemed neither nervous nor excited,” said the woman walked to the restroom at the end of the hall after leaving his elevator. The time was 11:40 a.m.

A few minutes later, downtown workers saw a body plunge from an eighth-floor window of the Medical Arts Building. Nobody could tell whether she had jumped or fallen. Rushing to the scene, they found the woman in the alley below, terribly injured. She was rushed to St. Joseph Hospital, but died within a half hour.

Police were baffled. The woman’s purse was found on the washstand in the bathroom, but there was no suicide note. Although Lloyd’s brother, a former football star for Southwestern, said his sister had recently been ill, she gave no hint that she would take her own life. In those days, before air-conditioning, many office buildings had windows that opened. Police concluded it was possible that Lloyd had rested against the windowsill and then fallen backward out the window.

The Commercial Appeal decided the death was “apparently a suicide,” but the medical examiner was not convinced. On her death certificate, in the space for the cause of death, he typed, “undetermined.” Thelma Lloyd was buried in Forest Hill Cemetery.

LOST AT SEA

Born in Memphis in 1863, Granville Garth grew up in a prosperous home, the son of the president of the Germania Bank here. In his late 20s, he moved to New York to make his fortune, and within a few years, became president of the Merchant’s National Bank in that city.

But then his life took a strange turn. For reasons that were never revealed, in late December 1903, the bank’s board of directors persuaded their president to take a holiday, “to go far from the scenes and incidents distressing him,” as The New York Times put it. So Garth took the steamer Denver to Key West, where he visited for a few hours, then came back aboard when the boat departed for Galveston. When the ship docked in Texas several days later, Garth could not be found. The ship’s crew revealed he had “received cables and messages that seemed to drive him nearer to despair.” Authorities presumed he had jumped overboard somewhere along the way and determined he had done so on Christmas Day.

But why? Family and friends told reporters that the 40-year-old man had “mental anxiety of an altogether personal nature.” At the same time, they said, “What those troubles were are well-known to his friends, and they are known to many in society. Below stairs, in the servants’ world, they are as well-known as to the directors of the bank.”

Nobody could make sense of that. Garth’s brother-in-law later told reporters, “The public does not yet know what the trouble was. Mr. Garth was a disappointed man. He played a game of chess and lost.”

It was all very mysterious. The Garth family put up a stunning granite obelisk in Elmwood Cemetery, inscribed with the cryptic words, “LOST AT SEA.”

DEATH FROM THE SKY

In 1944, Norman Cobb worked as an air traffic controller for Memphis Municipal Airport. The 23-year-old probably never dreamed that he would be killed by an out-of-control airplane that smashed into his house.

Just before 11 o’clock on April 29, 1944, people in the vicinity of Poplar and Cleveland looked up when they noticed a U.S. Army B-25 bomber in distress. Some witnesses said the twin-engine plane actually flipped over in midair; others said the engines were sputtering or had quit completely. The plane zigzagged for almost a minute, dropped within a hundred feet of Tech High School, then plunged straight down into Cobb’s house at 322 North Claybrook.

The Commercial Appeal conveyed the horror of what happened next: “The brief staccato bark of a dying motor, a plane plummeting earthward, the terrible sound of impact, a dense cloud of black oil-smoke billowing skyward.”

Piloted by a Memphian, Captain Ralph Quale, the B-25 was on a training flight with two other men aboard when the engine failed just minutes after takeoff from the Memphis airport. The scene was utter chaos: “a maelstrom of shouting, running people, of siren-screaming fire apparatus and ambulances, of semi-hysterical women, of grim-faced men who wanted to do something but couldn’t.”

The women had good reason to be “semi-hysterical.” The house on Claybrook was occupied that morning, and everyone in it was killed instantly. Along with Cobb, the victims included his 22-year-old wife, Naomi, their 2-year-old daughter, Garlene, and another resident, 55-year-old Beatrice Withers. Cobb was home that morning because his shift didn’t begin until 4 p.m.

It took the fire department, aided by special chemical units from the airport, hours to quench the flames. No one ever determined the cause of the accident. The pilot never reported a problem with the airplane, and the B-25 had been inspected and overhauled just six days before. An officer with the Army’s Accident Investigation Committee admitted, “I am as much at a loss to explain the cause of the crash as the general public.”

In the days that followed, more than 20,000 people visited the crash site. Although seven lives were lost, everyone breathed a sigh of relief that the doomed airplane had somehow missed Tech High School, the Southern Bowling Lanes, Sears Crosstown, and dozens of other crowded businesses in the area.

Norman Cobb’s death certificate reads: “Accidentally burned to death when Army bomber fell on his home and exploded.” The remains of Cobb and his family were buried in Topeka, Kansas. His home on Claybrook was rebuilt, and there is no trace of the crash site today.

THE MISSING MAN

Just inside the entrance to Elmwood Cemetery is a stunning memorial, almost 20 feet tall, and topped with a lifesize statue of a gentleman named Smith. A stone lion crouches in front of the monument, which is adorned with plaques, columns, and other decorations.

But nobody is actually buried here, because Jasper Smith simply disappeared one evening while walking in downtown Memphis. It’s one of our city’s enduring mysteries.

According to historian Paul Coppock, Smith was a “well-to-do real estate man.” He lived with several sisters and nieces in a nice house on Orleans, near Madison. On the evening of May 29, 1899, Smith left home and told the women he would return before 9 o’clock. He never came back.

Much later that evening, some friends claimed they saw Smith leave a downtown saloon and head down a narrow alley called Whiskey Chute, running between Main and Front, just north of Madison. The next day, police found his horse and buggy several miles away, at Poplar and Belvedere, but no one ever saw Smith alive again.

Coppock writes, “Gradually, the town accepted a theory that thugs, who assumed he carried large amounts of cash, had jumped him in the dark and dumped his body in the river.” But there were other theories, among them a report that he had withdrawn $1,000 from his bank that morning and had planned his disappearance because “the women he was sharing a home with were driving him crazy.” But if you were going to leave town, wouldn’t you take all of your money with you? And rumors persisted that his family had killed him for their inheritance.

The newspapers held out hope for his return, with one story saying that Smith had probably decided to visit some of his real estate holdings in the area, though the reporter didn’t explain why he would do that at night and leave his horse and buggy behind. Even so, the article said that Smith “is expected to reappear in due season and in good shape.”

He didn’t. Years later, he was declared legally dead, and his sisters erected the monument in Elmwood. The rest of his family eventually was buried nearby, their graves marked by almost identical memorials.

A BOLT FROM THE BLUE

On the afternoon of June 6, 1913, several children were playing in the front yard of a home at 1674 Lawrence Place in Midtown. Without warning, a black thunderstorm swept through the city, and the children dashed for cover from the fierce wind and pelting rain. Six-year-old Aileen Embury scampered across the street to her own home at 1677 Lawrence Place.

She didn’t make it.

The Memphis Daily Appeal reported, “As she ran toward her home, a blinding flash of lightning appeared around her and the girl sank to the ground. Persons who rushed to her found her dead. The bolt that caused her death flashed directly to the child’s body. When it had gone, a life was the toll of damage done. No mark was left on shrubbery or houses nearby.”

The funeral service, as was the custom of the times, was held at Aileen’s home the next day. She was buried in Forest Hill Cemetery.

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News

Guitar Center Reissues Elvis Presley’s “Covered” Guitar

Most people think of Elvis Presley as more of a singer than a guitarist, but many fans remember his stage appearances with a Martin D-28 acoustic, sporting a distinctive tooled-leather cover with his name inscribed in it. He purchased the guitar in 1955 and used it throughout his career. The original is now on display at Graceland.

But here’s your chance to own an exact copy. The folks at Guitar Center have worked with C.F. Martin & Company to produce a limited-edition version of this iconic guitar. According to Guitar Center, “The Martin D-28M Elvis Presley Commemorative Limited Edition features an exact reproduction of the leather cover originally crafted by Charles Underwood, and a TCB lightning bolt inlay on the heel cap.”

The guitar features Elvis’ signature inlaid into the neck at the 12th fret, and a mother-of-pearl image of the performer set into the headstock.

Production will be limited to just 175 guitars, and the price is fit for a King, too: $9,199. For more info, check out the Guitar Center website.

And remember, nothing improves the sound of a guitar more than covering it in leather.

–Michael Finger

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News

Only Walls Remain at Anderton’s East

Like shucking an oyster, wrecking crews with Chandler Demolition have pretty much scraped away the interior of the old Anderton’s East restaurant at 1901 Madison. Crye-Leike Realtors, which owns the property, have announced they may convert the building into retail space or use it for their own Midtown offices.

The restaurant closed in late 2005, and the roof collapsed during a storm in February. The demolition crews have preserved the elaborate terra-cotta facade — at least for now — with rows of steels beams bolted to the walls and attached to the concrete foundation inside.

For almost half a century, Anderton’s was one of our city’s most popular restaurants.

In the late 1940s, Herbert Anderton opened an oyster bar downtown at 151 Madison that was a huge success. In fact, when the place celebrated its tenth anniversary, Anderson had his employees bake a 400-pound birthday cake and serve it to all his satisfied customers. In that first decade, he claimed he had served more than six million oysters, and who would argue? The man loved oysters so much that he built a house on East Parkway with an oyster-shaped swimming pool.

In 1956, he decided to expand, purchasing the old Gilmore Seafood Restaurant at 1901 Madison and renaming it Anderton’s East. An old Press-Scimitar story said the new establishment had “an air of quiet elegance” but that’s not how most people would probably describe it. Instead, patrons remember the bizarre pirate-ship bar (complete with cannons), organic pink ceiling “blobs” that floated over diners in the main dining room, a blue glass panel etched with sea creatures, and — for a while — even a waterfall outside the front door. Oh, and all this inside a bright-blue/green terra-cotta facade.

It seemed like it might last forever, but all the Anderton’s restaurants (there was a third one in Whitehaven) closed. When the Madison location shut its doors in 2005, everyone thought they had seen the last of the most unusual restaurant interiors in town.

But much of Anderton’s funky interior has been moved across town, to a new bar on Broad called The Cove. Owner Jim Marshall had spent most of his life in the design business when he decided he wanted to open a bar. He found the location on Broad, and then went to an auction of Anderton’s furnishings. “I had no intention of buying anything,” he told Memphis magazine a few months ago. “I just popped in out of curiosity.”

Well, he popped back out as the owner of Anderton’s distinctive bar, as well as lighting fixtures, murals, and other pieces of the old place. He moved everything to The Cove, and says, “When I got the bar in, it looked as though it had been made for this place.”

And yes, they serve plenty of oysters there.

Meanwhile, the Anderton’s site has been declared a “derelict and dangerous building” by the city’s Division of Fire Services. Will the Madison Avenue landmark remain standing much longer? Stay tuned.

— Michael Finger

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The Memphis Olympics: Parallel Bars

In this week’s cover story, Flyer writers discover some unique Memphis Olympic events. Here’s Michael Finger’s look at the Parallel Bars.

Parallel Bars: The competition is stiff along one block of Madison Avenue.

Arm muscles rippling, backs straight as arrows, legs braced securely, eyes straight ahead, concentration focused. It’s poetry in motion, and the awed spectators wonder just how long the participants can continue until they slip and tumble to the ground.

Oh sure, the parallel bars competition at the Olympic events is fairly interesting, but what’s that got to do with this? Here, we’re talking about the drinkers perched on the stools, lifting frosty mugs of Budweiser to their lips at a pair of “parallel bars” in Memphis: two Midtown landmarks named Old Zinnie’s and Zinnie’s East.

From the outside, Old Zinnie’s is a curiosity — a turreted building constructed in 1905 at the corner of Madison and Belvedere that over the years has housed a drugstore, a beauty parlor, and even a bicycle shop.

“We opened Zinnie’s in 1973 or 1974, right after Huey’s opened,” says Perry Hall, current owner of Zinnie’s East. “The original owner was a guy named Gerry Wynns. Everyone called him Winnie, but he didn’t like that name for a bar, so they named it Zinnie’s.”

Precisely 109 meters to the east (a distance sanctioned by the Olympics committee), Zinnie’s East is a newer establishment, a two-story brick structure erected on the site of a white cottage that was home to a classical-music bar fondly remembered as Fantasia.

So why build two Zinnie’s practically side by side?

“We thought we were going to lose our lease down at Old Zinnie’s, because the landlord kept raising the rent,” Hall says. “So we tore Fantasia down in 1984, and our plan was to just let the other place go and build a new one right here.”

And?

“We opened Zinnie’s East on February 14, 1985 — Valentine’s Day. And on the 13th we walked away from the old place thinking it would go downhill,” Hall says. “But it wouldn’t die! It just would not die. And now it’s become a haven for all the kids from Rhodes.”

Old Zinnie’s is now owned by Bill Baker. “Not the Bill Baker from Le Chardonnay,” Hall explains, “but the other one.”

Having two bars with essentially the same name, he admits, has confused customers.

“Old Zinnie’s is associated with just a beer and a hamburger, and for a long time people didn’t think we [at Zinnie’s East] did anything but serve beer and hamburgers.” Instead, the new Zinnie’s offers a wide-ranging menu, tasty plate lunches, and for those who care nothing at all about their cholesterol levels, a concoction called the Zinnie-Loney: fried bologna, Swiss cheese, and grilled bacon on a bun. Angioplasty costs extra.

Old Zinnie’s has some nice architectural touches inside, including a magnificent old bar with tile accents and illuminated stained-glass panels spelling out “Zinnie’s.” But “new” Zinnie’s (as it’s often called) features an underappreciated work of art — etched glass panels, designed by Memphis artist (and frequent Flyer contributor) Jeanne Seagle that, says Hall, “has the whole panorama of what Madison Avenue was like when we opened in 1985 — all the characters, from Monk to Dancin’ Jimmy.”

And there’s more. Upstairs at Zinnie’s East is yet another bar, called the Full Moon Club. It originally opened across Belvedere from Old Zinnie’s, then moved to the second floor of Zinnie’s East, taking over space that had been used for catering private parties.

Unfortunately, the Olympic judges refuse to acknowledge that the Full Moon Club and Zinnie’s East would qualify for the uneven parallel bars competition — it’s some silly technicality — but as far as parallel bars go, Old Zinnie’s and New Zinnie’s are both winners.

More Olympics?