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Food & Drink Food Reviews

Eggs Benedict at Rizzo’s

Rizzo’s Diner in the South Main Arts District is taking brunch in a whole new direction. One example: the eggs Benedict, which Rizzo’s gives a very Southern and very Louisiana treatment. The dish is composed of a crispy yet tender English muffin crowned with a perfectly poached egg. Any brunch dish, or any egg dish for that matter, needs to have a gooey, runny, and luxuriously textured yolk. Thankfully, the chef knows how to prepare eggs perfectly. Along with those two components are succulent slices of slow-roasted Newman Farm pork loin that are earthy, sweet, tender, and juicy. The entire dish is anointed with a Cajun hollandaise, which is subtly spiced and creamy and doesn’t in any way overpower or interfere with the other flavors on the plate. It’s a rich plate of food that is an excellent match for a slow Sunday morning. — Michael Hughes

Rizzo’s Diner, 106 G.E. Patterson (523-2033)

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Food & Drink Food Reviews

Breakfast Burger at Majestic Grille

Breakfast Burger at Majestic Grille

The Majestic Grille has given me another reason to love brunch. The first is their Majestic Mimosa, which is a bottle of bubbles and a carafe of orange juice. The second reason is the Breakfast Burger — fried egg, crispy bacon, melted cheese, and a gloriously medium burger. Heavenly. There’s crunch, velvety smoothness, and richness. Be sure to ask your server to have the kitchen make the yolk runny. The silky gelatinous texture of the golden yolk is paramount to the success of this burger. Go get this now. — Michael Hughes

Majestic Grille, 145 S. Main (522-8555)

majesticgrille.com

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Food & Drink Food Reviews

Sweetbreads at Restaurant Iris

Sweetbreads at Restaurant Iris

The sweetbreads appetizer at Restaurant Iris is a playful spin on the classic dish of chicken and dumplings. If you’ve ever wondered what sweetbreads are, they’re the thymus gland of a young cow. But don’t let that scare you off. When prepared correctly, sweetbreads can be exquisite. At Restaurant Iris, Chef Kelly English puts them through multiple treatments, including poaching and brining. This results in something tender and succulent with a slightly sweet yet savory earthiness. They come served over house-made gnocchi that are light as air with a pillowy tenderness. The sauce is deep and rich like a concentrated broth that coats the gnocchi and sweetbreads yet doesn’t weigh them down. The dish accomplishes what so many like it strive for: elegant and elevated comfort food.

Michael Hughes

Restaurant Iris, 2146 Monroe (590-2828)

restaurantiris.com

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

“Tennessee Sunset” at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen

No matter if you drink it or not, Jack Daniel’s is a point of pride for Tennesseans. Shawn, the bartender at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, has taken this spirit and elevated it into a refreshingly bright cocktail. Combining Jack with Cointreau (a French orange liqueur) and St. Germaine (an elderflower liqueur using hand-harvested elderflower blossoms), he presents a drink with citrus and floral characteristics that don’t mask the charcoal-inflected whiskey. Many times a mixologist’s fallback is to pour a drink into a martini glass. However, this cocktail is presented over ice in a rocks glass with a simple yet beautiful garnish. It’s just the thing to wash the day away.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

The Main Event

Brooks Museum’s Art of Good Taste — Memphis’ premier gastronomic and vinous series — has rebranded itself the Memphis Wine & Food Series. Since its inception, this fund-raiser has brought some of the best chefs and winemakers to Memphis. Last year saw Chef Celina Tio, a competitor on Next Iron Chef and Top Chef Masters, and Giacomo Neri, whose Brunello di Montalcino was awarded number-one wine in the world by Wine Spectator.

This year, the Brooks is hosting one of the biggest names in Napa Valley, Silver Oak, which was arguably the first “cult” Cabernet.

“We got involved because of [event chair] Frank Muscari. He is an ardent fan,” says Charlie Campbell, Silver Oak’s director of national sales.

“This business is all about relationships,” Campbell adds. “This is a great event for us and a great opportunity to get involved with such a vital part of Memphis’ arts and culture.”

While the Silver Oak name alone could draw a crowd of wine trophy hunters, the Wine & Food Series planning committee didn’t stop there. Silver Oak’s executive chef Dominic Orsini will join Brushmark chefs Wally Joe and Andrew Adams and Felicia Suzanne’s Felicia Willett to create the courses for the series’ Patrons Dinners on May 6th and May 7th.

“Every year, the Memphis Wine & Food Series brings creative chefs to the museum,” says Adams, who is the Brushmark’s chef de cuisine. “Even after 16 years of working with Wally Joe, I still learn something new every day. This year, I am excited to work with Felicia and Dominic.

“Memphis has come a long way in the past decade with its food availability,” Adams continues. “Every week, I am introduced to new products or familiar products that are now local.”

Those fresh, local products will be featured throughout the Patrons Dinner menu. “I am excited to see how Dominic uses our Tennessee duck to make his ‘Duck Prepared Two Ways’: seared breast over spring vegetable fricassee and leg cannelloni with morel mushroom ragu,” Adams says.

Highlighting the local bounty alongside one of the most coveted wines in California makes perfect sense considering the national love affair with Southern food. What food lovers have at their fingertips in Memphis is covet-worthy, and events such as this showcase why.

“As busy as the week of Patrons Dinner and the auction is, the best part is anticipating and then finally walking past the farmers’ booths [at the farmers market] and seeing what we will actually cook,” Adams says.

“We will have the absolute freshest, seasonal local food. I am really excited to get rich golden farm eggs, which will be going into my chocolate cremeux.”

Supporting one of the important arts organizations in Tennessee while eating delicious food and drinking awesome wine seems like a no-brainer.

“The arts and culture are part of the soul of a city. They are what define the personality of a city,” Campbell says. “The museum is right there in one of the most beautiful parts of our city. What’s not to love?”

For more information about the Brooks Museum’s Wine & Food Series, visit memphiswineandfoodseries.org

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Short Rib Sliders at Napa Cafe

I am a braised meat slut. Lamb shank, pork … braise it, and I’m in heaven. For me, there is nothing more comforting than a braised beef short rib. Napa Café in East Memphis takes this glorious cut of meat, shreds it, and places it on house-made brioche with an electric-purple slaw. The soft brioche gives way to the unctuous and rich meat. The cabbage-jicama slaw is crunchy and creamy with a contrasting herbal-earthy note that plays off the short ribs beautifully. A plate of these paired with a glass of wine from Napa’s stellar list and I’m happy. —

Napa Cafe, 5101 Sanderlin (683-0441)

Napacafe.com

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Taste Nice

Every month, there are multiple wine tastings across the city. These are perfect opportunities to sample new wines and break outside of your comfort zone.

Events like this are fun, of course, but that doesn’t mean politeness and manners don’t still apply. Here are a few things to keep in mind the next time you attend a wine or spirits tasting:

1) Don’t say “fill it up.” This is a “tasting” not an opportunity for you to get sloshed. Most events have multiple wines, and if you tried all of them (and swallowed), you probably would need a taxi. If you want to go back and resample any particular wine, there is ample opportunity to do so.

2) The spit bucket is your friend. Just because your glass has wine in it doesn’t mean you need to shoot it back like a fraternity boy does tequila. Pour out what you don’t want to finish, and by all means spit it out every once in a while.

3) Don’t treat the pourers as if they are your own private spigot. Interact with them, and if interacting isn’t your thing, then step aside to make room for other guests.

4) If there is food at the wine tasting (and there almost always is), don’t hoover up as much as you can as quickly as you can.

5) If you show up late, don’t complain that the wine and food are running low. Arriving at 8:15 p.m. at a tasting that ends at 9 is considered late.

6) Don’t pretend you know something you don’t. No one is going to judge you based on your lack of wine knowledge. That’s the point of tastings: to educate, increase awareness, and expose you to new wines. Ask questions, be curious, try grape types that you’ve never heard of or can’t pronounce.

7) Open your mind. Think you hate white wine or only drink red? If you are at a tasting, take it upon yourself to try as many different wines as you can. You might just find some new favorites. If you have a wide array of wines at your disposal, why wouldn’t you want to try as many different ones as possible? You paid your admission, so make the most of it.

8) If you enjoyed yourself at any particular event, ask to get on the e-mail list of the retail store or restaurant that hosted it. Whenever they put on any future tastings, you will be the first to be notified.

Wine tastings are immensely fun, and if you keep in mind the previous pointers, they will be even that much more fun for everyone.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Roasted Marrow Bones with Pico de Gallo at Restaurant Iris

There are few things that make me feel like a true carnivore. The Roasted Marrow Bones at Restaurant Iris do that deliciously. Just looking at the plate makes me giddy. The bones come to the table sawed open and topped with an explosively bright pico de gallo. The pico cuts through the rich “meat butter” that is scooped out of the bones — slathered on buttery house-made brioche. It’s the essence of meat — so pure, rich, unctuous, and earthy. My new resolution? Eat more marrow.

Restaurant Iris, 2146 Monroe (590-2828)

Restaurantiris.com

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Aviation Cocktail at Sweet Grass

In the cocktail world, there are two schools of thought on the Aviation. Some mixologists consider the original Aviation to be made with Crème de Violette, gin, and lemon juice. For others, this is a Blue Moon. By whatever name, I call it thirst-quenching. The bartenders at Sweet Grass have a deft hand when it comes to this cocktail. The Crème de Violette is the star of the show with its vibrant true purple color and heady aroma of fresh violet. At first glance, one might expect this unique liqueur to taste perfumey. But it does not. Sweet Grass’ Aviation has a perfect balance of acidity, floral sweetness, and intoxicating aromatics.

Sweet Grass, 937 S. Cooper (278-0278)

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Spirited

There are no limits or constraints in the world of cocktails anymore. Both the traditional and the modern co-exist on countless cocktail lists. Across the country, bar chefs are concocting unique, handcrafted, and deliciously drinkable creations, and Memphis has by no means been passed over by this trend. We are seeing more and more artisanal spirits enter our market, giving both professional and amateur mixologists many options for their bar. House-made cordials, infusions, and spins on classics are popping up all over our city, but it’s still very much in its infancy.

Luckily, we have a full artillery of spirits to work with. Corsair Artisan, based in Nashville, produces an incredibly expressive battery of liquors, from absinthe to whiskey. It seems as though Corsair, founded in 2007, has come about in the very midst of the cocktail culture exploding across the country.

“When we were deciding whether to launch, we saw a convergence of interest in high-quality, locally produced foods and the revival of classic cocktails,” says Andrew Webber of Corsair Artisan. “We thought craft spirits were going to take off on the back of these combined movements.”

As with cooking, crafting a good cocktail means sourcing the best possible ingredients. Corsair has that same meticulous attention to detail with the components of its spirits. “Most distillers use very conservative grain bills for whiskey relative to what brewers have been doing with craft beers. Using interesting barley preparations and unusual grains for whiskeys is one of our major passions,” Webber says.

Tasting their Triple Smoke Whiskey is a lesson in thresholds. Lovers of Islay Scotch will recognize some of the flavor profiles. However, those who don’t care for that particular style will appreciate that Cosair took the whiskey to the limit without going over the edge. It’s intense and wonderful. The Triple Smoke is crafted using Sweet mashbill paired with barley smoked with peat, cherry wood, and beechwood.

These whiskeys aren’t even some of the more esoteric spirits that Corsair has produced. “About 20 experimental whiskeys, including lagered whiskeys, a chocolate bourbon, and a wormwood wit whiskey have proven popular with tasters but haven’t been released [yet],” Webber says. “Other experiments have produced whiskeys too unusual even for us!”

While gin isn’t the first thing that comes to mind when people think of Tennessee, Corsair is quietly changing that — at least in the world of the spirits enthusiast. Their Gin-Head Style American Gin came out of nowhere to win the gold medal at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition in 2009. They use only sustainably harvested, traditional botanicals and distill them in a hand-hammered pot in small batches. The botanicals are vapor-infused as opposed to the typical infusing into liquid alcohol. The result is a super-pure, intense-tasting gin that is fantastic.

The folks at Corsair are humbled by the overwhelmingly positive response their small-batch, hand-crafted operation has received.

“Once we make a spirit, we tend to be lost as to what to do with that spirit [beyond putting it in a glass neat],” Webber says. “We’re always amazed and gratified when we see what cocktail enthusiasts can do with our spirits, taking them in directions we never considered.”

Smoke & Spice

3 oz Corsair Artisan Triple Smoke

Whiskey

1/2 oz St. Elizabeth’s Allspice Dram

1 teaspoon lemon juice

2 dashes Regan’s Orange Bitters

Pour all ingredients in a mixing glass over ice. Stir at least 20-30 times to cool the mixture down and achieve proper dilution. Strain into a rocks glass with no ice and garnish with a lemon peel.