Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Drafted

I got into home brewing because of a Christmas crisis,” says Lazy Magnolia cofounder Leslie Henderson.

“When you’re married to an engineer, it’s very hard to figure out what to get them for Christmas. I racked my brain and finally thought about a beer kit. A friend had told us a little bit about it. I thought, hey, this will be fun for a weekend.”

Henderson takes a moment away from the Atlanta Food & Wine Festival, where she is a panelist, to talk about Lazy Magnolia, the Kiln, Mississippi-based brewery that launched in 2005. The brewery has grown rapidly, now selling its products across the South.

Henderson, herself a chemical engineer, and her husband, Mark, an electrical engineer, met in college. After college, they moved to the Gulf Coast to start their careers. For a while, things went as expected. Then the beer took over.

“We brewed our first batch of beer, and I thought it was going to be terrible but at least it would be fun. But it was actually pretty good. We started experimenting every weekend. You can imagine when a chemical engineer and an electrical engineer get in the kitchen, it can get kind of crazy.”

But it turned out to be a good kind of crazy. And crazy good.

“We were having so much fun brewing beers that we brewed much more than we could ever drink ourselves,” Henderson says. “We would take beer to friends’ houses and have awesome beer parties at our house. We would ask that people write down their opinions, because I would have five different versions of a beer.”

It was during this period of initial experimentation that the flagship beer for Lazy Magnolia was born.

“During that time of home brewing, we developed the recipe for Southern Pecan. My husband had the idea of making something truly Southern, and he couldn’t think of anything more Southern than pecans — pecan pie, pecan pralines,” Henderson says.

Southern Pecan is the only commercially produced beer made using pecans, and even back in the kitchen brewing days, it was a hit.

“A lot of our friends started telling us we should go pro with this,” Henderson recalls. “We said no one else in Mississippi is doing this. There has to be a reason. So [we did] a couple of years of research to learn is it legal, can you get financing for it, and is there a market for it?”

When the Hendersons were ready to go pro, timing and luck were on their side.

“We were in the right place at the right time,” Henderson says. “The craft brewery movement was just starting to come this way. And it’s a young movement. With craft beer, we’re working together, not fighting each other. It’s more of a community.”

Her own brewery is more a family than a company.

“I have three priorities. Number one is that nobody gets hurt or killed on my watch,” Henderson says. “One thing about women brewers, we’re kind of like mothers. I’m kind of like a mother to my employees.”

This family is a growing one, and as Lazy Magnolia grows, so does its impact. Christiana Craddock, Southeast brand manager, says, “We’re not just a brewery from the South; we’re a brewery about the South. Lazy Magnolia is not just a beer. It’s a lifestyle; it’s an ideal. It’s sitting on the porch with your neighbors.”

Henderson sees the beer as an ambassador for Mississippi.

“I knew that my business could be a vehicle for bringing a better reputation to our state, showing off the good things that we have to offer. We’re a state full of charm, hospitality, and romance. That’s the kind of image we’re trying to put forth all around,” Henderson says. “Lazy Magnolia. ‘Lazy isn’t a bad word. Think about life in New York City. That’s constantly on the go. You don’t have time to talk to your friends. Here, we sit on the back porch, listen to music, drink some beer. It’s all about relationships and family and fun. That’s what a lot of our culture is about — friendly, happy.

“Our mission statement used to be, ‘We don’t tell people what to like. We just give them lots of choices.’ But over the years through our involvement with a lot of charitable organizations, it has turned into ‘Making Mississippi a better place one pint at a time.'”

So what’s in the future for Lazy Magnolia?

“I’m never satisfied,” Henderson says. “As soon as you reach a milestone, you have to get yourself educated and emotionally prepared for what’s going to happen next. You never stop learning. The problems I have now will seem like a trifle in five years. I look back five years ago and laugh at the things that stressed me out then.”

It might seem pessimistic to look beyond bright spots to the next problem, but, for Henderson, that’s where the thrill is.

“It’s so interesting. I’m constantly learning something. Right now, I am just so interested in seeing how the careers of all my team members develop. I’ve had so much fun building the team, learning how to get the culture right. I used to be thinking about the brewing. Now I’m thinking about the details of human psychology. So my brain is always on, and I’m growing as a person. I’m seeing the impact we’re having on our state.”

But in the end, it all comes back to the beer.

“I’m not a beer snob; I’m a beer geek. Being a beer geek means you really love beer and want to get into all the intricacies of it,” Henderson says with a smile.

lazymagnolia.com

Categories
Food & Drink Food Reviews

Sam’s Bar-B-Q Rebuilds

If the smell of smoke from a barbecue pit is the best, the smell of smoke from a burning barbecue restaurant is the worst.

Last June, Jon and Seresa Ivory were called to their Humboldt, Tennessee, restaurant, Sam’s Bar-B-Q, at 10 p.m. because of a fire. The fire department extinguished the minor blaze, which had started outside the building. After using heat sensors to ensure the fire was out, the fire department left.

At 2 a.m., the call came again. A fire had started in a different location outside the building, but it was much worse this time. Before being extinguished, it nearly destroyed the restaurant. Overnight, a thriving business with traditions reaching back more than 60 years was brought to a standstill.

Seresa Ivory’s father, Sam Donald, began smoking pork in Gibson County in the 1940s. After working for others for years, Sam and his wife, Mary, opened their own restaurant in 1988. Sam died in 2011, and Jon and Seresa took over the business. Their plan then was to keep the business going and, eventually, pass it on to Seresa’s daughter, Francesca Martin.

Upon hearing of the fire, Tony Kail, Humboldt resident and author of Meat Fire Wood: The Survival of West Tennessee Barbecue, put out a call for help for the sake of the family and of the community, which was on the verge of losing an institution.

“They are historically tied to one of the deepest barbecue lineages in Gibson County. Sam’s is a symbol of an art form that has survived through several generations of family,” Kail says.

John T Edge, director of the Southern Foodways Alliance (SFA) at the University of Mississippi, had just written an essay on West Tennessee barbecue, including Sam’s, for Garden & Gun magazine. Kail had previously talked barbecue with Edge, and he immediately contacted Edge regarding the fire. Edge then reached out to his fellow members of the Fatback Collective, a group of like-minded lovers of all things swine. The collective didn’t hesitate to take on the task of rebuilding Sam’s.

Nick Pihakis of Jim ‘N Nick’s Bar-B-Q brought a crew to Humboldt to survey the site. Although the roof and wood-framed walls had burned, the cinder-block walls still stood. And most important of all, the pit could be saved.

After putting a plan together, Edge went to the SFA, and the food community in general, asking for volunteers. So it was that 20 people found themselves in Humboldt on two hot days in late July. The majority of the work for the volunteers was to load several dumpsters with debris. The restaurant consisted of a room with the pit, an adjoining room where customers placed their orders, and a larger two-story space.

The lower floor had been a storeroom for items unrelated to the restaurant; its contents had been lost in the blaze. The space above was in the process of being converted into an apartment for Francesca and her children. Fortunately, it suffered only minor smoke damage.

Volunteers began clearing the storeroom with the vision of a new dining room. In the pit room and previous service space, cleanup proceeded under open skies even as more skilled workers were beginning to add trusses for the new roof.

Though the walls and chimney of the pit survived, refurbishing it was the biggest challenge. Decades of accumulated grease and ash formed rock-hard layers inside the potentially fragile pit wall. Alternating bouts of vigorous pickax work and gentle scraping restored the walls to usable condition. With guidance from Jon and Francesca, local masons and iron workers were brought in to line the pit with fire bricks and add a new door.

As a lover of barbecue and a champion of Southern food, Edge is thrilled by the progress that has been made to date: “Sam’s is a Tennessee barbecue stalwart with a great back story. It was great to see the town of Humboldt — along with barbecue devotees from around the South — rally to the cause. It was greater still to witness the emergence of next-generation pit master Francesca Martin, known to all who worked the early stages of the rebuild as ‘Pit Baby,'” he says.

Seresa Ivory has soldiered on during the entire ordeal, never letting the setback overwhelm her. What has been overwhelming for her is the outpouring of love and assistance. Thanking volunteers at a lunch provided in a local church by the Old Country Store in Jackson, Tennessee, her eyes filled with tears. Later, back at the jobsite, she took a break from working to look on in near disbelief.

“This was a terrible thing, but it has become such a blessing,” she says.

Two months into the rebuilding process, the roof is up, and the good kind of smoke is once again rising from the pit. Work on the new and enlarged dining space is well under way, but it’s progressing slowly because of typical construction obstacles and because the family is being careful not to overextend themselves. Life continues, however, and the restaurant now serves barbecue from the original small dining room on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

Sam’s Bar-B-Q, 500 W. Main, Humboldt, TN (713-784-9850)

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Home Run

Mississippi native Martha Foose is coming to town on Thursday, April 21st, to sign and discuss her new cookbook, A Southerly Course: Recipes & Stories from Close to Home. She’ll be returning from New York after an appearance on Good Morning America. Passing through Memphis just may be the highlight of that trip, though.

“I love to get my Viet Hoa on. I have to get my rice vinegar fix,” she says.

For all her traveling, Foose continues to come home time and again. After pastry school in France and jobs in California, Minnesota, and New Orleans, she returned to Pluto Plantation, her family’s land in Tchula, Mississippi.

At home, she has lots of energy around her. “There are always people coming in and out of the kitchen at Pluto,” Foose says.

When she goes back out on the road to promote A Southerly Course, she will have to carry that energy with her, but she will have help there as well. When school is out, Foose is sometimes able to bring along her husband Donald Bender and their son Joe. The experience has led to some changes in Joe, but it has also reinforced some things.

“He has become quite a hotel connoisseur. His key card collection continues to grow,” Foose says. “And he still wants to be a zookeeper, so visiting zoos and aquariums continues to be a high priority for us.”

Foose’s first book, Screen Doors and Sweet Tea: Recipes and Tales from a Southern Cook, took her across the country from the smallest bookstores to national television. Her triumphant tour culminated with awards from the James Beard Foundation and the International Association of Culinary Professionals.

After the success of that book, Foose has worked hard to make this latest one its equal.

“The first time I had no idea what to expect,” Foose says. “This time, there’s a little more pressure. [With Screen Doors], it was safe to go with fried chicken and catfish. This time, it’s a little more out there. I just hope people will get it.”

While her first book celebrated many traditional Southern dishes, it also included new classics such as paper-sack catfish — the Southern staple en papillote — and inside-out sweet potatoes — a marshmallow surrounded by mashed sweet potatoes. How, then, to top that?

“Things can come at you from different angles,” Foose says. “Sometimes it’s a dish I’ve had somewhere. I say: What do I have around the house that I can make this with? And other times you learn something strange. A mirliton is a type of squash, but it’s also the name of a musical instrument like a kazoo. So I created a stuffed mirliton recipe. Crazy things can take you off on a tangent to make something.”

Other times her inspirations come from closer to home: “Sometimes it’s paying tribute to a friend, like my essay about going through Eudora Welty’s cookbook collection. I wanted to add something that’s reflective of her, so there’s a plain, simple custard pie recipe. There’s a recipe for crab ravigote that I wanted to include to support New Orleans fishermen.”

What’s her favorite recipe from the book? “Sugar snap peas and peaches. It’s kind of like a chutney. It’s really yummy,” Foose says.

New Orleans Times-Picayune photographer Chris Granger took the photos. “He was absolutely a joy to work with. As a Southerner who understood why some things were important, Chris totally got it,” she says, then adds:

“There is a recipe in the book for corn oysters, little fried nuggets like oysters. I say in the book that you should make them for your vegetarian friends. Chris took a picture of the Cornstalk Hotel fence in New Orleans to go along with the recipe, a little inside joke for Southerners.”

Martha Foose will sign and discuss A Southerly Course: Recipes & Stories from Close to Home at Davis-Kidd Booksellers on Thursday, April 21st, 6 p.m. She will return to Memphis in August to join Kelly English at Restaurant Iris for his series of brunch collaborations.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Two for Brunch

What’s the first thing a young chef does after opening his own restaurant? Find someone else to do the cooking for a change.

After Kelly English opened Restaurant Iris in Midtown, he started checking out the Memphis restaurant scene. Las Tortugas Deli Mexicana in Germantown was a favorite find, as much for the people as the food.

On his first visit, English had an elephant-ear torta, a hand-carved sirloin sandwich, that reminded him of the roast beef po’boys he loves from his native New Orleans. He was hooked.

At the same time, Jonathan Magallanes, owner of Las Tortugas, visited Restaurant Iris “to see what all the fuss was about.”

“I was more than impressed,” Magallanes says. “I was blown away. It felt like everything I hope people experience at Las Tortugas.”

“Ours are very different restaurants but with very similar philosophies of carefully sourcing ingredients and taking care of our customers,” English adds.

English and Magallanes became friends quickly, and with that friendship, they began to exchange ideas. When Kelly competed in Cochon 555 in Atlanta, he looked to Las Tortugas for help.

“Kelly was in our kitchen learning tamales,” Magallanes says. “He used his own recipe for the filling at the event, but he learned technique with us.”

Last October, English and Magallanes were invited to cook at the annual Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium in Oxford, Mississippi. Their barbacoa was chosen to match the symposium’s “Global South” theme, and they were presented a challenging ingredient — cow heads — to prepare traditional tacos de cabeza.

“We had one practice run, and it went well,” English says. “For the event, we were going to do 42 cow heads. I wasn’t sure how it would work. Two heads in a hole is one thing; 42 heads and 800 pounds of charcoal is an entirely different thing. We were very confident in what we were doing, but we knew there was an outside chance that it wasn’t going to translate to 42 heads.”

After a sleepless night and a nearly disastrous encounter with the Oxford Fire Department over the size of the fire, the barbacoa was a resounding success, providing a unique dinner to hundreds of symposium attendees.

The teamwork between English and Magallanes will be seen at another event, thanks to changes English is making to the hours at Restaurant Iris. The restaurant will serve dinner on Monday nights, and brunch with visiting chefs will be served only on the third Sunday of each month.

According to English, Jeff Frisby, Restaurant Iris’ general manager, came up with the idea of a collaborative brunch.

“We wanted to do something where we could cook with some friends and take in some people regionally and offer Memphis something that they don’t have on a regular basis,” English says.

The obvious choice for the first brunch partner was Magallanes.

“Kelly called and asked if I was interested. I was more than interested; I committed right away. We’ve been experimenting and talking and tasting ever since,” Magallanes says.

Both restaurants’ styles will be represented in a blending of techniques and flavors. “This will be a very different type of brunch,” English explains. “We may not even serve biscuits. We aren’t at Jonathan’s. It will be a complete collaboration,” English says.

After the meal with Magallanes on January 16th (which is already sold out), brunch in February will feature Jennifer Chandler, author of Simply Salads and Simply Suppers. Future brunches will include Lee Richardson of Little Rock’s Capital Hotel; Elizabeth Heiskell, co-author of Somebody Stole the Cornbread from My Dressing; and Kat Gordon, owner of Muddy’s Bake Shop.

The friendly partnership between English and Magallanes will continue as well.

“Jonathan is one of the most passionate people about food that I have ever met. He will text me at 3 a.m. with a dish. He is full of ideas,” English says.

For more information on upcoming brunches, go to restaurantiris.com or call 590-2828.