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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Rumba Fries at the Rumba Room

My fiancé and I brought our baby girl to a daytime kids’ event at the Rumba Room a few weeks ago. Located on South Main, this nightclub hotspot is a perfect place to show off your Latin dance skills or to pick up some new ones. What I didn’t know was that the Rumba Room kitchen staff have some tasty skills of their own.

The dancing was working up our appetites. The bar menu features classics like nachos and wings in 14 different flavors (including Red Hot), and there are also a few Latin-themed items, like the Baja Shrimp Tacos and Cuban Sandwich.

If you are looking to load up on carbs (you know, for those extra-fast dance moves), the Rumba Fries are your best option. These fries are not going to earn you any health points, but if you want the ultimate indulgent bar-food snack, these have got you covered — crispy French fries smothered in two kinds melted cheese, pico de gallo, bacon, green onions, and with your choice of ground beef, chicken, or veggies.

The fries are served piping hot with sides of ranch dressing and ketchup. You should plan on sticking around for that extra round or two on the dance floor, just to avoid this treat going straight to your hips. —

THE RUMBA ROOM, 303 S. MAIN (523-0020)

memphisrumbaroom.com

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News

Running on Full

When Tony Bennett sings “I Left My Heart in San Francisco,” I think what he means to sing is “I Left My Taste Buds in San Francisco.” On a recent trip to the Bay Area, my fiancé Eric, our baby, and I ate enough to feed three elephant seals. In a city known for being a melting pot of cultures, I wasn’t surprised that the food was just as diverse.

Our first meal was at Café Gratitude, which was appropriate, since we were grateful to have survived a cross-country plane trip with a five-month-old. Nestled in the Mission District, Café Gratitude is an all-vegan restaurant with a ton of raw menu items. We started with the “I Am Abundant” sampler plate — sprouted almond hummus, hempseed pesto crostini, spicy cashew nacho cheese with flax chips, olive tapenade, buckwheat crackers, spring roll, and a cup of the house soup. Eric ordered the homemade kombucha. It was icy cold, fresh, and subtle enough that I could have downed an entire glass of it.

After brunch, we caught up with our friend DJ Chad White and did the “tourist tour” — Haight-Ashbury, the Grateful Dead house, Chinatown, Fisherman’s Wharf, and Twin Peaks, which provided a panoramic view of the city. All that ocean air made us crave crab, so we piled back into the car.

“Chinatown is for tourists,” Chad said. “Let’s go to the Outer Sunset neighborhood.”

We parked illegally and ran across the street to one of the many tiny establishments selling dim sum. It was very authentic … so much so that I wasn’t sure I wanted to even ask what kind of meat was in the middle of the soft, steamed white buns. The sweet BBQ pork dumpling was the best and most familiar.

Back in the car and still on the hunt for crab, we had all but given up when Chad yelled, “Stop!” He told us to park (only semi-illegally this time), and we ran across another street to Swan’s Oyster Depot, one of the city’s mainstays. It’s been serving delicious seafood since 1912. Judging from the line extending out of the door and the 45-minute wait, it’s probably not going anywhere anytime soon.

The other customers waiting in line assured us that the wait would be more than worth it. By the time we sat down and started breaking off chunks of crusty white bread to dip in the chowder, we realized they were right. The menu was a bit pricey, but if you are looking for incredibly fresh seafood, this is the place to go.

We ordered the crab salad — lettuce piled high with fresh steamed crab and a side of creamy dressing. I didn’t need the dressing. The crab was so sweet, tender, and the perfect amount of salty, I could have easily finished another plate. The crab chowder was more broth-like than the traditional thick and creamy chowder, but I liked the lighter version. We also quickly polished off a plate of fresh, buttery oysters.

As much as we could have lingered, we decided to hit the road and make room for the other hungry customers waiting in the dark outside.

Although our day had been one long food-fest, we couldn’t leave the city without at least sampling some sushi. A quick Google search of the words “sushi and San Francisco” brings up a mind-boggling number of results, so we took a chance and picked Crazy Sushi (it had the best reviews). Turns out, it wasn’t such a crazy choice. Eric ordered a variety of sushi — and a lot — to-go.

Back in our hotel room, we shared a cup of green tea and broke out the chopsticks. Maybe it was all the walking we had done, or maybe it was because it was our last meal, but it was some of the best sushi I’ve ever put in my mouth. The winner was the “Black Imagine Woman,” a mouthwatering combination of spicy eel, king crab, avocado, and black tobiko. I didn’t think it could get any better but wondered if the “Fairytale Yellowtail” or the “Lesbionic” roll would be just as good.

I’ll have to wait until our next trip to the West Coast to find out. Meanwhile, I think my taste buds, which I left in San Francisco, will do just fine without me.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Say Uncle

Ever since I moved to Memphis nearly three years ago, I’ve discovered that everyone in town has a strong opinion about who fries up the best chicken. I always feel a bit out of my element when it comes to arguments surrounding meat or fried foods, since I am a tofu and veggies girl from Cali. However, a recent visit to Uncle Lou’s Southern Kitchen made me feel okay about cheating on my usually healthy diet — and gave me a bit of a best-fried-chicken-in-town opinion of my own.

Owner Louis Martin opened Uncle Lou’s in April 2001. Most of the recipes are family originals or created by Martin. The best recipe on the menu? Sweet Spicy Love sauce.

I’m a ketchup gal and not really a fan of hot sauce. I did grow up in a state where Mexican food was plentiful, but I always ordered the mild (aka wimp) version of everything. Because of my hesitancy toward anything spicy, I was nervous about Uncle Lou’s and hoped that I would find something on the menu that wouldn’t send my mouth into shock.

Imagine my surprise when I ate several wings doused in Sweet Spicy Love. The wings were just right, mostly because they weren’t heavily breaded. The sauce took front and center, as it rightly should, since it was amazing — the perfect combination of burn-your-lips spicy and make-your-tongue-dance sweet.

My first bite was actually more of an inhalation, which coated my lungs in hot sauce fumes. And then, since I’d only had a moderately adverse reaction to the hot sauce, I tried another wing. And another. And five more.

In order to recover, I finished off the fried corn nuggets. (Hey, survival is survival.) Slightly sweet, chewy in the middle, and crunchy on the outside, the corn nuggets were like a palate cleanser between bites of wings, fried chicken, and French fries.

Just when I thought I couldn’t possibly eat one more bite of anything, Martin brought out a plate with honey-buttered biscuits. Soft, chewy, and buttery melt-in-your-fingers, the biscuits disappeared in under two minutes. They were a perfectly sweet way to finish up the meal.

Martin has created a spice mix called Corruption that will make going bad seem so good. A simple mixture of salt, onion and garlic powder, lemon and celery salt, and other spices, it can be sprinkled on anything — chicken, burgers, fries.

If you were driving by Uncle Lou’s, you might dismiss it as one more dive on the edge of a strip mall. But it’s been featured on the Food Network show Diners, Drive-ins and Dives. It might be a dive, but don’t let that fool you. The service is amazing and the food … well, if you aren’t drooling by now, you don’t have taste buds.

Next visit, I’ll follow Martin’s advice and call in my order ahead of time. Our food did take some time to arrive (everything is made-to-order), but it was well worth the wait. While we waited, I checked out the wall filled with framed newspaper and magazine articles about Uncle Lou’s. I was intrigued by the two large maps of the U.S., with hundreds of colored pins representing visitors.

By the way, you can buy an entire kitchen’s worth of supplies, like breading, sauce, and spice seasonings. I ended up coming home with a bottle of hot sauce. My affair with ketchup is not over, but I did put the hot sauce on a separate shelf. Don’t want them to get all jealous and spicy on each other.

Uncle Lou’s Southern Kitchen 3633 Millbranch (332-2367)

unclelousfriedchicken.com

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Momma’s Veggie Sandwich at Three Angels Diner

Three Angels’ menu is brimming with classic comfort foods (think meatloaf and fried chicken), as well as vegetarian items like a mock egg salad sandwich and a veggie burger with veggie bacon. Many of the restaurant’s ingredients come from local farms, and the vegetables change daily to reflect what’s available. The times I’ve dined there, the options have included mustard greens with vinegar, sautéed eggplant with red pepper, sautéed green beans with ginger, and lots of fresh soups.

On a recent visit, I tried Momma’s Veggie Sandwich. With its house-baked tofu, roasted red peppers, red onions, mayo, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar, it’s a heavenly way to get your veggie requirement for the day. The sandwich came with homemade, crispy potato chips and a deviled egg. And while I almost never eat dessert, I was lured into it with the promise of peanut butter and chocolate. The Peanut Butter Surprise was layers of chocolate, whipped cream, and hardened crunchy peanut butter. The perfect way to undo all the good work I had done by eating a veggie sandwich. — Sarah Christine Bolton

Three Angels Diner, 2617 Broad (452-1111)

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Almond-crusted Shrimp at Nagoya

My boyfriend and I recently ventured south to check out Nagoya Japanese Cuisine in Southaven, Mississippi.

It was mid-afternoon, so the restaurant was almost empty. After starting our meal with those sweet-smelling hot hand towels and delicious miso soup, we ordered way too much sushi and a couple of different appetizers. The first one came out in less than five minutes — five huge shrimp breaded and completely covered in crunchy, sliced almonds.

I consider myself somewhat of a shrimp connoisseur (or maybe an addict). I love shrimp and have eaten them just about every way possible, including raw, so I feel I have the experience to state that the shrimp at Nagoya were by far some of the tastiest I’ve ever had. The almonds provided a very nutty flavor that worked really well with the mild shrimp, and the whole thing was fried to a perfect crisp and served with a salty and sweet sauce. Lucky for me, the arrival of my boyfriend’s sushi distracted him long enough to let me snatch up the last shrimp on the plate between us.

There were several other items on the menu that we didn’t get to try, like barbecue squid and sukiyaki, yam noodles in broth, which means we have to go back. Not that I’m trying to stuff my face with more almond-crusted shrimp or anything like that.

Sarah Christine Bolton

Nagoya Japanese Cuisine, 7505 Malco Blvd., Suite #101 in Southaven, MS (662-349-8788)

nagoya55.com

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News

A Full Agenda

My first experiences in East Tennessee years ago included a full day at Dolly Parton’s Southern-style theme park, Dollywood, my introduction to sweet tea, and a traffic jam in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park because of a bear climbing a tree. So, on a recent trip to Knoxville, I was surprised to find a city with fabulous restaurants and a thriving arts community … and not a bear in sight.

On the first day, my boyfriend Eric and I ate at La Costa, a cozy restaurant located on Market Square. The menu featured lots of vegetarian options, so I ordered a delectable oven-roasted sweet-potato burrito with roasted eggplant, blackened tofu, goat cheese, and toasted pecan vinaigrette, with an incredible cilantro cabbage slaw. My boyfriend chose a smoked duck-breast salad over field greens with honey-chipotle vinaigrette, Granny Smith apples, goat cheese, and toasted almonds. Our waiter was really cool and gave us some inside tips on the music scene in the city.

After lunch, we discovered Yee-Haw Industries, a letterpress art print shop and creative studio. A poster from a concert at Young Avenue Deli pasted on the ceiling caught my eye, and we chatted for a minute with Adam Hickman Ewing. The artists’ process is done almost completely by hand. They start by sketching on paper (gasp!) and then hand-carve the design into wood or linoleum blocks.

Walking into the Magpies Bakery was like a trip to Disneyland for cake lovers. In the colorful baking area, several decorators worked feverishly and intently. A sample tray offered up mini cupcakes for the tasting. When I stopped chewing long enough to ask owner Peggy Hambright about her business, she told me that the bakery is “going green” by using Green Car & Courier, a bio-fueled fleet service, to make all deliveries. I decided to help out their sustainability efforts and eat another cupcake, so they wouldn’t waste any at the end of the day.

The next morning, we slept in and decided against the hotel coffee, especially since Old City Java, a funky coffeehouse on South Central Avenue, was just a couple of blocks away. Around the corner was Gay Street, with several art galleries and boutique shops, many in restored, turn-of-the century warehouses. On our way to lunch, we stopped by Art in Public Places, a large-scale outdoor sculpture exhibit, and my boyfriend convinced me to climb onto a giant metal chair. Luckily, the cop parked right behind us didn’t even notice.

The Knoxville Visitor Center isn’t just a spot to pick up souvenirs and a city map. It houses a café, the WDVX radio station, and, on Fridays, live music. We ate chopped salads to the music of Christabel and the Jons, a hip young jazz band with vintage outfits and lots of soul.

While there, we visited DJ Grace Leach in the announcer’s booth. “I’ve been with the radio station since the days when it was housed in a trailer,” she said. “I pretty much come with the woodwork.”

Dinner was at Nama Sushi Bar, a swanky restaurant on South Gay Street. We started with wasabi hummus with pine nuts. Our tongues survived, and we ordered sushi. Eric decided to try the chef’s special.

“The chef loves it when customers order the special, because she gets to create something completely one-of-a-kind,” our waitress said.

The menu was loaded with vegetarian options, so I decided to try the veggie futo roll, with asparagus, snow peas, carrots, tomatoes, spring mix, pickled gourd, cucumber, zucchini, gobo, daikon radish, sprouts, and wakame wrapped with mame nori. I didn’t understand half of what I was eating, but it tasted great, and I didn’t miss the fish.

For dessert, we visited Schakolad Chocolate Factory, owned by Gus Paredes and his family. He and his two teenage daughters welcomed us graciously with cool, bubbling champagne in chocolate-lined glasses and let us go behind the counter, pull on gloves, and try making some chocolate candies. It turned out chocolate is easier to eat than make, and we decided to purchase Paredes’ skillful concoctions and left the candies we made to cool on the counter.

Our last meal of the trip was lunch at Litton’s Market, Restaurant and Bakery. We were told to save room for their desserts, which was an easy tip to remember, since the dessert cases hypnotized us the moment we walked in. The co-owner, Lynda Jones, was back in the kitchen, making everything — salad dressing, hamburger buns, mashed potatoes — from scratch.

“We use real butter, real sugar,” she said. “Don’t ask me about calories. That’s not my job!”

We followed her advice and in blissful ignorance devoured a slice of chocolate malt cheesecake.

Thank goodness the airlines haven’t gotten to the point of weighing passengers and charging more for people who take a weekend trip and come back with a few extra pounds. We wouldn’t have been able to afford to get on the plane, which might have not been such a bad thing. I think Magpies was open late that day.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Go East

Sometimes, eating out reminds me that you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover. A few weeks ago, my boyfriend suggested we try Genery, a Sudanese restaurant on Jackson Avenue, just east of Trezevant. The exterior is nondescript except for a sign advertising burgers, wings, and African food, which is slightly deceptive. So is the menu.

The key to success at Genery is to ask the waiter for the “real deal,” as in the really authentic food. Our waiter finally realized that we didn’t want a gyro and headed back to the kitchen to place the order.

While we waited, we drank hot tea. We had three options: white, green, and a milky, sweet chai-like version. Our food arrived still sizzling: a chicken stir-fry dish with peppers and tomatoes and a massive platter of subtly scented rice, hummus, and fresh, ripe bananas. It was divine. We vowed to return.

We did a week later and brought a friend with us. He had already discovered Gereny and become something of a regular.

This time, I tried the goat meat, which was very tender, while the guys tried the salmon, slow cooked with lemons and chili peppers. All the dishes came with rice, salad, and a spicy chili pepper relish. I dug my fork in to try a large bite and was rewarded with instantly cleared sinuses and lungs.

“Go easy on the relish,” I managed to choke out, in between chugs of fresh, sweet mango juice. Luckily, our waiter had brought us an entire pitcher.

After we were all too full to move, we sat and finished the dregs of our tea. At the table across from us, a group of men were eating from a large communal platter, the traditional way to eat East African cuisine. Our friend asked our waiter what the men were eating.

He told us it was an egg dish, commonly eaten for breakfast.

“Can we taste it?” our friend asked. As full as I was, I decided to try a bite when it arrived at our table. I pulled off a chunk of the crusty white bread and scooped up a bite of what looked like scrambled eggs with tomatoes and onions. Within minutes, we had polished off the whole plate. It was that good. I tried to ask our waiter what it was called, but between his accent and new customers, I wasn’t able to get a clear answer.

When I got home, I did a quick Google search on East African food. And that’s when things got tricky.

The more I researched African cooking, the more overwhelmed I became. In the same way a New York pizza is very different from a Chicago pizza, African cuisine varies widely, depending on which region of the continent you happen to be in. Even within individual countries, dishes can differ depending on the area and the available ingredients.

Part of the difficulty in defining African cuisine by country or region is because during the “Scramble for Africa,” between the 1880s and 1914, European settlers defined colonial borders without regard to pre-existing territories or cultural differences among tribes.

This made perfect sense to me, especially because it seems that Gereny has influences from several different countries in Africa, not just Sudan.

Studying African cuisine is a lesson in occupation. Starting with the Arabs more than 1,000 years ago, various cultures have invaded the continent, bringing with them spices, plants, and cooking techniques that are now a part of the cuisine.

The Arabs brought steamed rice and spices like saffron, cloves, and cinnamon. Portuguese explorers introduced roasting and marinating techniques and oranges, lemons, and limes from Asian colonies. Later, they introduced New World items like chilies, peppers, maize, tomatoes, pineapple, and bananas (most of which are very much a part of the cuisine at Gereny). The British and Indians introduced vegetable curries, lentil soup, and chapattis.

One thing is definitely clear about Gereny: The food has a very strong Middle Eastern influence.

Items such as hummus and gyros are menu staples, but don’t go to Gereny to have a chicken gyro. Go for something totally different, like the goat meat (kind of like lamb but not) or the Kingfish (salmon smothered in grilled lemons and a red spicy sauce).

It might be difficult to pin down exactly what type of cuisine Gereny serves, but one thing is certain: It’s tasty. Go get some before word gets out about this delicious hole-in-the-wall.

The menu prices range from $10 to 12 for an entrée, but keep in mind that includes tea, any beverages (like the super-tasty mango juice we tried on our last visit), extras like hummus, and tax.

Gereny

2356 Jackson (458-6330)

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Chattanooga Chew Chew

Located just five hours from Memphis, Chattanooga at first glance
might seem like a sleepy version of Nashville. The city boasts lots of
tourist attractions, beautiful rolling hills, and a variety of outdoor
activities.

But a closer examination, which I was able to have one weekend in
early October, revealed a city eagerly embracing artistic endeavors,
sustainable business, locally grown food, and a thriving agri-tourism
industry.

Agri-tourism, for the uninitiated (which is what I was until this
trip), is a vacation that focuses on farms, local food, and education
about farming culture. Because of the rich farming industry in
Tennessee, Chattanooga is a natural culinary and agriculture
destination.

No agri-tourism/culinary trip would be complete without a bit of
risk. So, at the Tennessee Aquarium, which sits right on the Tennessee
River, I did something crazy.

“Anyone want to try some toasted mealworms?” One of the keepers was
giving a demonstration about the different foods that the aquarium
prepares each day for the fish. I slowly raised my hand.

They were quite delicious. Crunchy, salty, and slightly meaty, I was
craving more for the rest of the day.

In addition to offering exotic snacks to its visitors, the Tennessee
Aquarium was very influential in reviving downtown Chattanooga and
tourism in the city. When the aquarium opened in 1992, downtown was not
very active. But within a few years, several restaurants also opened in
the area, and tourists began to visit Chattanooga just for the good
eating. Farmers on the outskirts of the city started to capitalize on
the growing interest in Chattanooga, and the city’s agri-tourism
industry has been expanding since.

The growing popularity of agri-tourism is partly because people are
interested in knowing where their food comes from and how it’s grown.
Meeting the farmers who grow the food completes the circle.

In Chattanooga, not all farmers are outside the city. John Sweet,
founder and owner of Niedlov’s Breadworks, grows an urban garden
outside his bakery. Sweet began his love affair with bread when he did
a baking exchange program in Germany.

“I stood on a concrete floor, kneading artisan bread for eight hours
a day, 40 hours a week,” he said. “And I just fell in love with
breadmaking.”

Sweet is committed to community involvement and sustainable
practices. He grew up on a 15-acre farm, so composting and gardening
are second nature. He grows tomatoes, beans, corn, and basil in the
bakery lot. He built a water-collection system and composts all the
bakery’s food scraps.

Crabtree Farms is an urban farm located near downtown Chattanooga.
Covering more than 22 acres, it has a weekly farm stand on-site that
offers produce, flowers, a community garden, pick-your-own crops, and
various outreach and education programs. Outside the city is Apple
Valley Orchard, a family-run farm that grows more than 30 varieties of
apples. Visitors can tour the orchard and pick apples to take home.

One of the highlights of my trip was a visit to Williams Island
Farm. Located on a 450-acre island in the middle of the Tennessee
River, the farm is run by five young farmers. Three of them —
Noah Bresley, Beth Austin, and Daniel Westcott — took some time
away from tending their fall crops to give me a tour.

The farm provides produce to a few restaurants and markets. The
farmers also do their part to reach people by offering educational
tours and dinners at the farm.

“We want local food to be very accessible,” Bresley said. “Some
people respond to the taste of fresh, local food. Other people buy it
because they feel like it’s the right thing to do.”

Because so many Chattanooga restaurants buy from local farmers,
tourists can experience the city’s rich agriculture without traipsing
through the mud. Susan Moses, co-owner of 212 Market Restaurant, has
built her family restaurant into Tennessee’s first certified green
restaurant and bicycle-friendly business.

The restaurant opened downtown in 1992, long before downtown
Chattanooga was considered a good location. Now, 212 Market is not only
an excellent place to eat, it is also a shining example of
sustainability. They cut water usage by 70 percent, changed the
lighting to LED lights, started composting and recycling, tinted the
windows in the dining room to cut cooling costs, and use lots of local
ingredients.

Tom Montague is the founder of Link 41, an artisan butcher. His
business is still in the works, but when his farm is established, the
animals will be raised free-range.

There wasn’t enough time to visit every farm in the area, so I am
definitely planning a return visit sometime soon. And depending on the
time of year you visit Chattanooga, you will experience different
crops. Whether you want to get down and dirty and pick your own food,
or if you’d prefer a farmers market on a Saturday morning, Chattanooga
has a little something for the inner farmer in us all.

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Cover Feature News

Young and Invincible?

In July 8, 2007, Grant Frank spent 36 hours at the Med. It cost him
$28,417.54.

At 4 a.m., he woke up to what he describes as “the worst pain of my
life.” He fumbled for his phone and called his father. “I’ve got to go
to the hospital,” he said. Soon, he was doubled over in the stark
waiting room of the Med, signing a form in which he verified his lack
of health insurance and agreed to pay off any medical bills to the best
of his ability.

After five hours in the waiting room, with the pain in his abdomen
getting worse, Frank was called to an examination room. He was
diagnosed with a gallstone, and because of the high toxicity of bile
stored in the gallbladder and the risk of rupture, doctors opted to
remove his gallbladder immediately. When he came out of surgery a few
hours later, Frank was given a brief convalescence in a semi-private
hospital room and was discharged by the end of that night.

“We got the bill a month later,” Frank said. “It said to pay as soon
as possible and that I could set up a plan, but all their plans were
things that I couldn’t do — like $400 a month. At that point, I
was making about $800 a month. My rent was $350, and my car insurance
was $125. With food and living expenses, it didn’t leave me much to pay
them.”

Frank is not alone in his experience. In 2008, 27 percent of
Americans age 18 to 34 were without health insurance, according to the
U.S. Census Bureau. That’s compared to 18 percent of those age 35 to
50. The highest concentration of uninsured adults are those age 20 to
25, a group typically undergoing the pivotal transition from parental
or university-based coverage to employment-based or private
insurance.

Jessamyn Bradley, 24, finished graduate school at the University of
Memphis in May 2009, but she hasn’t had insurance since well before
that.

“When I graduated from Middle Tennessee State University with my
bachelor’s, I was dropped from my parents’ insurance because I was over
18 and no longer a student,” Bradley said. “I guess that’s been about
three years, and it’s terrible, terrible, terrible. I haven’t had my
teeth checked in over two years, and whenever it’s time for an eye
exam, my mother foots the bill. And heaven forbid when it’s time for my
annual pap smear.”

Besides the risk of sudden illness, young adults have the highest
rate of injury-related emergency department visits. When an accident
happens or serious illness strikes, the uninsured and underinsured
(those who have some health coverage but are not protected from high
health costs) are left with medical bills they cannot pay. A 2007 study
by the American Journal of Medicine reported 62 percent of all
bankruptcy cases were medical-related. Even more startling, three
quarters of those debtors had some kind of health insurance.

Justin Fox Burks

Burt Waller

Where the System Breaks Down

The status quo is bleak for patients and costly for providers. At
the Med, the Mid-South’s safety-net hospital, uninsured or underinsured
cases are far from unusual. The Med treats patients regardless of
coverage or ability to pay, not only patients from Memphis but from
throughout a five-state region. According to Judy Briggs, executive
director of revenue cycle, uninsured or “self-pay” patient visits made
up 31.8 percent of the hospital’s potential revenue for the 2009 fiscal
year. The hospital must absorb whatever portion of that revenue goes
unpaid.

When uninsured or underinsured patients receive treatment at the
Med, the hospital handles the billing process in a variety of ways. An
in-hospital representative from MedAssist checks to see if the patient
qualifies for Medicaid or Social Security. If the patient is the victim
of a crime, he or she could receive up to $30,000 in assistance from
the Crime Victim Fund. If the patient is below the poverty line, the
case could be considered “charity care.” If the patient does not fall
into one of these categories, he or she is responsible for setting up a
payment plan, like the one Frank was offered. As a last resort, a court
can garnish a patient’s wages after the provider sues the patient for
the bill.

According to Frank, the payment plans offered by the Med were
unrealistic, and the collection agencies were unrelenting. His mom
agreed to pay off the separate $2,375 bill for doctors’ fees, but the
bulk of Frank’s medical debt remained. A court decision was made to
garnish his wages, then after just one paycheck, the garnishments
stopped. Now, Frank said he’s waiting for the hospital to make its next
move. In the meantime, his credit report bears the stain of his
exorbitant medical debt.

Government-aid eligibility requirements, which are based on age,
income level, and/or disability, leave a pocket of people exposed to
the risk of medical debt. Many young people, like Frank and Bradley,
who are new to the job market, fall above the poverty line — and
therefore above the cutoff for government aid — but below the
income level necessary to survive a serious financial blow. In many
cases, jobs available to entry-level workers don’t provide health
insurance, and individual policies are prohibitively expensive.

Bradley works full-time at a chiropractic clinic but is paid hourly
and receives no health insurance from her employer. “I have a gym
membership through work,” she said. “But I have to pay for private
insurance.” 

Many uninsured young adults utilize nonprofit health clinics, like
Memphis’ Church Health Center and Christ Community Health Services.
These organizations provide basic health care for uninsured Memphians.
Fifteen percent of all uninsured patients who rely on the Church Health
Center for health care are between 18 and 34, many of them uninsured
after they “age out” of TennCare eligibility. Unfortunately, because
walk-in visits are first-come, first-served, the clinics aren’t able to
handle every patient who seeks help.

“We have to turn people away every day,” said Burt Waller, executive
director at Christ Community Health Services. It’s a situation
compounded by the increase in uninsured young Memphians seeking
treatment at the clinic. The number of young adults age 19 to 34 who
were treated jumped 10 percent from 2007 to 2008, a “significant
increase” according to Waller.

The socioeconomic makeup of the patients is shifting as well. “We
have seen an increase in the number of middle-class people coming to
our clinic, because so many people are losing their jobs and,
subsequently, their health insurance,” said Marvin Stockwell of the
Church Health Center.

Waller suggests that the local increase is part of a larger economic
trend. “Companies are using a lot more contract and part-time
employees,” he said. “People change jobs more often, especially in
today’s recessionary economy, and fewer companies are offering full
benefits.” In fact, 46 percent of people age 18 to 34 are not covered
by employment-based insurance, according to the Census Bureau.

Waller said the system starts to break down when patients seek more
complicated treatment for serious illnesses. The Christ Community
clinic and other health centers in Memphis accept walk-ins, but for
specialty surgeries or procedures, treatment can be costly and
appointments hard to make. People put off seeking care until they
absolutely have to, then when they come in, their problem has often
already reached a more severe — and more expensive —
level.

If Frank had possessed some form of private insurance, the financial
blow would have been less severe. Insurance plans such as HumanaOne’s
Monogram, offer a low-premium, high-deductible “catastrophe” insurance.
The company’s marketing of the plan focuses on young, generally healthy
consumers and is advertised as “ideal for recent college graduates or
graduate students.”

So why wouldn’t young people sign up for these plans?

“Affordability,” Frank said.

For many young adults, even the minimal coverage for basic health
care does not always seem worth the premium. Monogram, which does not
include dental insurance or cover lab work, X-rays, and emergency room
visits until the deductible is paid, has an average premium of $40 a
month, or $480 a year.

In addition, subscribers must pay for all prescriptions up to $1,000
and hospitalizations up to $7,500. The plan covers a routine annual
physical, immunization and pap smear, but all other doctor visits are
on the patient’s tab. Many young people don’t see the point of paying a
monthly premium if basic doctor visits are out of pocket anyway.

Heidi Park, 29, works for the University of Memphis as a contracted
researcher and has no health insurance coverage. She has opted to pay
for her own medical costs.

“Some health concerns earlier in the year led me to visit the doctor
for the first time in many years,” Park said. “I paid out of pocket,
and it was not pretty.”

Justin Fox Burks

Jessamyn Bradley

The “Young Invincibles”

A national organization called Young Invincibles (younginvincibles.org) has co-opted
the pejorative title often used to dismiss the young and uninsured. The
group is working to dispel the myth that young people consider
themselves invincible and is trying to educate and galvanize uninsured
young adults.

Armed with startling statistics about their demographic — more
than half of all young adults between the ages of 20 and 29 are
overweight or obese; the highest prevalence of human papilloma virus is
among women age 20 to 24; and one-third of all HIV diagnoses are made
among young adults — the organization hopes to turn the public
perception that young adults don’t need or want health care.

According to a recent survey conducted by the Department of Health
and Human Services, 28 percent of uninsured young adult men and 40
percent of uninsured young adult women reported not receiving at least
one needed health-related service in the prior 12 months, because they
could not afford it.

“At that age, you don’t think about health insurance, because you’re
mostly well and you don’t have that much money to lose,” 9th District
congressman Steve Cohen said. “You don’t think about getting sick when
you’re young. You think about raising hell.”

Cohen is an outspoken proponent of a health-care reform bill that
would give everyone, even young adults, regular, affordable access to
doctors. He sees it as the first step to curbing high medical
costs.

“You have to have a more holistic approach toward the patient to see
that they stay healthy,” Cohen said. “Beyond that, I think you need a
public plan to keep the health-care companies’ prices from continuing
to rise.”

Cohen remains optimistic about a plan that controls costs via a
“public option.” “I think we’re going to have a bill,” he said. “That’s
what President Obama desires and what the majority of the Democratic
caucus desires.”

Recent polling suggests it’s what the majority of the public wants
as well. But even if a bill passes, it will take time to phase in
fully. What should young uninsured Memphians do for now?

“We focus on prevention to keep people healthy before they get
sick,” Stockwell said.

Cohen’s advice is practical but not too reassuring in the
short-term: “Buckle your seatbelt,” he said. “Don’t talk on your cell
phone when you’re driving. Try to live a healthy lifestyle. Don’t drink
and drive.”

Forty-four years after President Lyndon Johnson signed Medicare into
law in an effort to spare elderly Americans from “the terrible darkness
of despairing poverty” caused by rising medical costs, we are now faced
with a generation of young people who may be consigned to bankruptcy or
years of paying off hospital bills because of an unexpected injury or
illness. It is no less frightful a prospect for the next generation of
Americans to face crippling debt at the outset of their adult
lives.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Food Fight

Ah, the school cafeteria. Land of tater tots, mystery meat, and
cranky lunch ladies. Long the source of material for TV shows, movies,
and comedy acts, school cafeterias are in reality no laughing matter.
Nearly 27 million children eat meals at school every day, and for most
of them, what they eat at school is the most nutritious meal of their
day. The problem is, it can’t even be called nutritious.

“Look at what our children are being offered at school: processed
foods high in fat, junk food, soft drinks loaded with sugar … the
list goes on,” says Chef Ann Cooper, school-lunch-reform advocate and
author of Lunch Lessons: Changing the Way We Feed Our Children.
“It’s a public-health time bomb.”

According to the Centers for Disease Control, the prevalence of
obesity among children 6 to 11 years has more than doubled in the past
20 years. Among adolescents, obesity has more than tripled. Sixty
percent of children and adolescents exceed the USDA daily dietary
guidelines for saturated fat, and only 40 percent meet USDA daily
requirements for fiber.

“Kids are bombarded with Happy Meal commercials that tell them that
they have to eat McDonald’s food to really be happy,” says Vaughan
Dewar, founder of Food Awareness, a Memphis-based volunteer group
devoted to raising awareness about the benefits of a plant-based
diet.

Parents should be ultimately responsible for what their children
eat, but schools have a great opportunity, and responsibility, to
contribute to the health of the nation’s children. Seventy percent of
all elementary schools meet government-mandated nutritional guidelines,
but only 20 percent of secondary schools do.

“Whatever we’ve been doing is not working,” Dewar says. “We’ve
obviously got a problem. One of the best ways we can address the issues
is to improve the school lunch program.”

Cooper, who is the director of nutrition services in Boulder,
Colorado, has been involved in the culinary world for more than 30
years and has been a school lunch reformer for more than a decade. She
is partnering with organic food leader Whole Foods Market to raise
funds to continue building “The Lunch Box,” a free online resource to
empower schools to reform their lunch programs.

In an effort to give students healthier meals, Cooper encourages
schools to serve more fruits and vegetables, buy from local farmers,
and involve the kids in the process of growing and preparing food. She
also speaks at town halls and PTA meetings and reaches out to
communities with tools like calendars with menus and recipes.

“We are marketing to parents, who really care about the issues,”
Cooper says. “We are marketing to the advocates, and of course, we are
marketing to the school administration.”

Any change will have to be incremental. “We should work toward
replacing the most harmful foods first,” Dewar says. After he made a
presentation to Memphis City School leaders about the dangers of eating
processed meats, he began working with them to find substitutions for
items like hot dogs. So far, he hasn’t had any luck. “My challenge is
trying to find a substitute that can compete with a 20-cent hot dog,
bun, and ketchup,” he says.

In order to replace harmful foods, three criteria have to be met: It
has to be cost-effective, it has to meet nutritional guidelines, and,
perhaps most importantly, it has to pass the student taste test.

As any parent can confirm, getting kids excited about healthier food
can be a challenge. Cooper says the key is hands-on experience.

“Kids should be gardening, cooking, touching the food, planting the
food,” she says. “We send interns into school cafeterias and have them
do tastings with the kids.”

In addition, changes in the cafeteria have to be within the
constraints of available equipment and personnel. “When you have lunch
ladies who are used to working with box cutters and scissors, you have
to retrain them to be more actively involved in the food preparation,”
Cooper says. According to Dewar, most school cafeterias simply heat up
frozen, pre-cooked food to serve to students.

Cooper argues that school lunch reform is possible without pouring
tons of additional money into the school system, but she does admit
that more funding will be necessary in the future.

“The issue is not about spending less — or even about spending
more,” Cooper states in her book. “We need a different worldview based
on measuring the health of children and the health of the planet.”