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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Do French Fries Make You Strong?

My husband, Warren, is a really good cook. He’s also an archaeologist who often goes on digs for weeks at a time, leaving the monkeys — Satchel, age 4, and Jiro, age 2 — and me to fend for ourselves. Prior to my husband’s most recent departure, I got my hands on a list of places where kids eat free (or almost free) from MemphisLovesKids.com. I organized it by day and came up with a plan to get the monkeys a free meal every day for a week.

When I told Warren about my plan, he said, “You are probably going to get sick.”

Monday: CiCi’s Pizza

We arrived at the CiCi’s in Poplar Plaza shopping center at 5:45 p.m. The monkeys and I paid our $9.24 and hit the buffet line.

According to a large sign, CiCi’s uses “100% real mozarella, freshly prepared sauce, freshly made dough, and garden-fresh vegetable toppings.” Equally admirable was the salad bar that had lettuce other than iceberg and several enticing pizza toppings. There was also fusilli pasta that came with a choice of red or Alfredo sauce, garlic bread, and cheese bread.

The pizza bar had 16 varieties of piping-hot pies ranging from pepperoni to Hawaiian. Desserts included brownies sprinkled with confectioner’s sugar, apple cinnamon pizza, and strudel. The monkeys were psyched.

Satchel had four pieces of cheese bread, one slice of pepperoni pizza, some plain pasta with Parmesan cheese, and 1.5 brownies. Jiro had two slices of pepperoni pizza, two Hawaiian Punches, and one brownie. I had a small salad and three slices of pepperoni pizza.

Satchel asked, “Mama, does pizza make you strong?”

“Yes,” I said proudly. “Pizza has something from all five of the food groups.”

CiCi’s Pizza, 3474 Plaza Avenue, Suite 1 (452-6225)Buffet hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. dailyChildren 3 and under: 99 cents; child buffet: $3.18

Tuesday: McAlister’s Deli

The McAlister’s kids’ menu offers seven choices: toasted cheese sandwich, PB&J, Mac’s Dog (a hot dog), kids’ nachos, ham-and-cheese sandwich, turkey-and-cheese sandwich, and cheese pita pizza. The sandwiches come with chips, and everything comes with Teddy Grahams (which I hid from the monkeys). Drinks are extra. While the kids’ meal prices were pretty fair ($1.19-$2.75), I have to admit, having to pay for drinks took a little bit of the fun out of the “free-ness.”

Satchel chose nachos, and Jiro chose pizza. (He was rallying for day two at CiCi’s the whole drive over.) I ordered the chicken Caesar wrap.

When I looked at Satchel’s plate, I felt very embarrassed by the cold, hard reality of the nachos. Jiro took one look at his pizza that was “covered in blood” (as Satchel noted) and went right for the chips and dip. Satchel insisted on a piece of pizza in return. As he was about to take his first bite of Jiro’s pizza, Satchel said, “Ooh fly!” I shooed it away but not quickly enough. He said, “I can’t eat it now that the fly puked on it.”

Then he turned his attention back to his own plate and asked, “Do nachos make you strong?”

I carefully considered my answer in light of the fact that he had nothing else to eat. “Um, sort of,” I said.

McAlister’s, 3482 Plaza Avenue in Poplar Plaza (452-6009)Kids eat free Tuesdays after 5 p.m. (two kids per adult)

Wednesday: IHOP

I had informed Satchel that we were having breakfast for dinner at IHOP. He excitedly asked, “Does that mean we get dinner for breakfast?”

When we pulled into the almost empty parking lot at 5:45 p.m., I was a little shocked. The only other times I’d been to IHOP (Sunday morning or the wee hours of the weekend), it was packed. Several large window signs pictured chocolate-chip happy-face pancakes and declared, “Kids Eat Free All Day Wednesday.”

The kids’ menu was a paper placemat with pictures of each item, things to color, and activities to do. I asked the monkeys to point to what they wanted. Jiro immediately pointed to the chicken strips, and Satchel predictably pointed to the chocolate-chip happy-face pancake.

I didn’t want to eat since I was planning to attend a party later in the evening, but I had to in order to get a free kids’ meal. I brought my mom along so that both monkeys could eat free. I figured I should stick with breakfast and ordered the Migas (eggs, tomatoes, cheese, jalepenos, and tortilla strips). My mom ordered the chicken-breast dinner.

The monkeys busied themselves with the crayons and the menu activities. Jiro quickly grew bored and attempted to swing from the low-hanging light fixture above our table. When informed that this was not appropriate, he let out several shrill protests that made me happy that there were very few people around.

When the monkeys’ food came out, Jiro took one look at Satchel’s chocolate-chip happy-face pancake and lunged across the table. Satchel blocked him, and more shrieking ensued. Eventually, we were able to convince Satchel to share, and he cut off an entire eye and half the forehead for his brother.

“Mama, do pancakes make you strong?” Satchel asked.

I opted for the truth: “No, but you had a really good lunch, so it’s okay.”

Once everyone was done and we were paid up, I enthusiastically said, “Now that we had breakfast for dinner, let’s have broccoli and apples for dessert!”

IHOP, 2060 Union (725-4448)Kids eat free all day Wednesday (one kid per adult)

Thursday: Piccadilly

My friend, Andria, caught wind of my “kids eat free” spree and decided that she and her 3-year-old, Miss M., would meet us at the Piccadilly cafeteria at 6 p.m. At the boys’ school, I’d run into our mutual friend Shiloh and invited her and her 2-year-old daughter, Lydia, along too.

We arrived to find the place bustling with lots of kids, lots of seniors … lots of everybody. The line for food was long but not too long. Satchel immediately ran up to the glass to see what treasures were lurking behind it. He pointed at the black-eyed peas and said, “Ooh, I want some of those beans!”

When we got to the front of the line, Andria, Shiloh, and I looked at each other and simultaneously groaned. The food selection started with dessert. Blue Jell-O was the first thing, followed by cupcakes with pink and blue icing and sprinkles.

I had no intention of blowing our almost-free meals on extras. I asked the server if dessert was included with the kids’ meals, and, to my amazement, she said yes. Jiro wanted both a cupcake and Jell-O but eventually went with just the cupcake. Satchel happily chose chocolate pudding. As we made our way toward the entrees, Satchel immediately zoned in on the fried chicken. “What about fish?” I asked hopefully.

“No. Chicken!” he said.

Then Jiro piped in and said, “I want chicken!”

As my friends and I were ordering, Jiro looked at me and said, “I need to go pee-pee.”

“Can you hold it?” I asked. He nodded yes, but two seconds later said no. I looked around at the scene and wondered how I was going to manage leaving mid-order. Thankfully, Shiloh agreed to order the sides for me.

I rushed Jiro to bathroom as fast as I could and got us back in line in time to get rolls and drinks. When we got to the end of the line, a nice woman was waiting to help me carry our trays to a table.

Then, as if things couldn’t get any better, both monkeys sat down and started eating. Jiro really wasn’t interested in anything besides his chicken. Once it was gone, he set his sights on the cupcake.

He had a couple licks of icing and decided it wasn’t all that. Then he started looking at me with pleading eyes and mouthing a word I could not understand. After a few minutes of me going, “Huh? Wha?” he grabbed my hand and led me back to the food line to where the blue Jell-O was.

“Jelly!” he said.

Once back at the table, a waiter came over and gave everyone a balloon. Satchel was clearly making up for the week’s lack of nutritional dinners. He ate his chicken, all of his mashed potatoes (and gravy), and broccoli. Then he ate half of my green beans and almost all of the black-eyed peas I’d ordered at the last minute, remembering his initial request. Then he looked at Shiloh and said, “Can I have some of your salad?” It was amazing. Finally he ate his pudding. When he was done, he calmly said, “I need to poop now.”

Piccadilly, 3425 Poplar Avenue (324-6442)Kids’ meal: 99 cents to $1.99 on Thursdays and 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturdays

Friday: Time-out

Warren came home for the weekend, and I just couldn’t motivate myself for another restaurant visit. Our choices for Friday were already slim (and far away): Gus’s Fried Chicken in Bartlett or the American Café in the Wolfchase Galleria. We opted to stay home and eat spaghetti, salad, broccoli, and bananas.

Saturday: Hooters

Baby’s first visit to Hooters: Jiro with a hot dog and crayons

At 1:30 p.m., Hooter’s had a pretty decent crowd. There were 20 to 30 men of various ages parked in front of a wall of TVs. Most of them were drinking beer and just hangin’. I was the only woman present (not on staff, that is), and we seemed to be the only people taking advantage of the “Kids eat free on Saturdays” offer.

I read the kids’ menu upside down from Jiro’s placemat as he began coloring: “Chicken wings, chicken strips, burger, grilled cheese, hot dog, PB&J, fish & chips. What do y’all want?”

“Fish & chips!” Satchel said.

“Hot dog!” Jiro said.

“Nobody wants chicken? They are famous for chicken!” I said.

“Okay, I’ll take chicken strips,” Satchel said.

“Why not try the chicken wings?” I prodded.

“Okay,” he said most agreeably.

Next I set about figuring out what I was going to eat. Thanks to the buxom ladies decorating my menu, everything looked good. (I also noticed that Warren was taking an unusually long time to order.)

Finally, I decided on the Hooters cobb salad. I thought for sure that Warren would get the wings, but he went for the chicken-breast sandwich (“Hold the chicken and the sandwich,” as The Office‘s Steve Carrell would say.)

Our food came out pretty swiftly, and the monkeys wasted no time descending on the curly fries.

Jiro asked, “French fries make strong?” as Satchel listened in.

“Yep,” I said as I avoided Warren’s stare.

Warren’s chicken breast was voluptuous and literally falling off the bun. My cobb salad, with buffalo chicken, was actually rather delicious. I tried to get Satchel to eat his wings, but after one bite he said they were too hot. Jiro took his hot dog out of the bun and squawked when he saw bun remnants sticking to it. Once Warren removed them, Jiro ate a few bites before chucking the rest of it across the table.

While we settled the check, I asked the manager why they offered a “Kids eat free” day when none of the other Hooters do.

“Uh, I don’t know. I can call corporate,” he said. He started walking away and then turned back. “This store was opened by a guy with four kids. I think he started it.” He caught his breath and continued, “The manager now has one kid and one on the way.” I smiled at him and nodded. “It’s good for business and good for the community,” he added. “Not everyone around here is that well off, so it helps people afford to eat out.”

I thanked him, gave our very attentive waitress a nice tip, and headed toward the car.

I joined Warren and the monkeys who were already strapped in their car seats.

“Did you like that restaurant?” I asked.

“Yes!” they hollered.

“What did you like best?”

“The curly fries!”

Hooters, 2653 Mt. Moriah (795-7123)

Kids eat free all day Saturday

Sunday: Checkers

I noticed the “$.69 Cheeseburgers, Shakes, Hot Dogs, Wed & Sun” sign on Monday night on our way home from CiCi’s. I’ve never been to Checkers before, but I figured that had to be a pretty good deal. Since I was on the last day of my “Kids eat free” week, I hadn’t eaten all day, and I just happened to have a car full of kids, I decided to try it out.

“Who wants a milk shake?” I asked the monkeys and their two cousins.

“Me! Me! I do! Me!” they responded.

“Anybody want a cheeseburger?”

“Yes! I do! Yes! Yes!” they responded.

I pulled up to the window and said, “I’ll take five chocolate shakes and five cheeseburgers.”

“I want vanilla,” my 10-year-old nephew said.

“Me too!” said my 5-year-old niece.

“And me!” said Satchel.

Before Jiro could chime in, I amended the order. “Make that four vanilla milk shakes and one chocolate. And five cheeseburgers.” I thought for a second. “Make four of those plain. No, just ketchup.”

“I like ketchup and mustard,” my nephew said.

“Okay. Four with ketchup and mustard and one with everything,” I said.

The voice in the box was annoyed and confused.

“Can I have French fries?” my nephew asked.

“There will be no French fries,” I said.

“Why?”

“They aren’t 69 cents.”

I pulled up to the second window and handed over $6.98. (I think they forgot to charge me for one shake.)

The worker handed me the shakes, and I immediately began putting the straws in. “They’re kind of small,” my nephew said.

“Well, it’s 12 ounces more shake than you had a minute ago.”

He couldn’t argue with that logic.

Epilogue

Although the “Kids eat free” week was fun for the monkeys and kept me from cooking, it caused me much distress in the breakfast and lunch department. I was working double time to sneak in fruits, vegetables, and milk. I’m not sure what most of the restaurants we visited have against fruit or vegetables with a kids’ meal or why they have candy machines everywhere, but clearly, when kids eat free, you get what you pay for.

Stacey Greenberg is a Flyer contributor and writer of diningwithmonkeys.blogspot.com.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

How You Slice It

Downtown is distinctive for many reasons — the river, the art galleries, urban living, and pizza. Yes, pizza. Within a short stretch, there are a number of restaurants offering various styles of pizza that are so tasty and unique, downtowners may never order delivery again.

Alice’s Urban Market is on South Front Street, just around the corner from the train station. Andy Grooms, the owner and a former employee of Pizza Hut, introduced pizza to the menu in February after he bought a 700-degree oven. Some of his pizzas are named after popular television characters such as Miranda, Charlotte, and Samantha from Sex and the City. (Carrie didn’t sell and had to be taken off the menu.) Others he’s named for locals, such as businessman Andy Cates. When asked how someone might get a pizza named after them, Grooms quickly replies, “Give me a hundred bucks.”

Alice’s staff makes the crust daily, and it is really stellar. The crust makes traditional pizzas like the Plain Jane (cheese) and the Andy Cates (pepperoni) shine. However, there are also several unusual pies to choose from, like the Pedro, which is composed of chorizo and crawfish with sautéed onions, roasted red peppers, mozzarella, and pepperjack cheese. Call ahead 15 minutes and pick up a fresh, hot, New York-style pizza at Alice’s Monday through Saturday from 4 to 9 p.m.

Across the street from the train station is the Arcade Restaurant. Though most popular as a breakfast spot, the Arcade provides something of a salve for those who are lamenting the closing of Pie in the Sky. The Arcade and Pie in the Sky have an intertwined past, and many of the pizzas the Arcade serves are reminiscent of those that were served at Pie in the Sky. At the Arcade, the Downtowner has garlic, ricotta, tomatoes, pesto, artichoke hearts, onions, and calamata olives, much like the former Moon Pie. However, this reincarnation is much cheesier and saucier than any slice at Pie in the Sky. (The entire crust was covered in sauce rather than swirled.) Keep in mind the Arcade closes at 3 p.m. Saturday through Thursday, so if you get a hankering for one of their pizzas for dinner, you better hope it is a Friday when they stay open until 8 p.m.

Hop on the trolley and go one block north of The Orpheum to the Majestic Grille for their signature flatbread. The Majestic specializes in grand food at a great price, and the Spicy Shrimp flatbread is a steal at $6. The sauce and the cheese are good but nothing out of the ordinary. What makes this pizza great is the hearty serving of shrimp on top that is smartly combined with roasted onion and oven-dried tomatoes. It is plenty big and can easily be shared with a friend. The flatbread with pulled pork, barbecue sauce, caramelized onions, and mozzarella is also a hit with customers.

Next door to Majestic is Bluefin, which specializes in “edge” cuisine, a style of cooking that is on the cutting-edge and combines the freshest and most exotic ingredients in one dish. Bluefin offers a variety of edgy pizzas. The current favorite is the Spicy Tuna pizza. The crispy crust is drizzled with Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise, which has a sweeter flavor compared to regular mayonnaise, and Thai Sriracha hot sauce. On top is a sprinkling of bite-sized cubes of raw tuna, grape tomatoes, red onion, and nori. The nori, which is shredded and oddly very cheese-like in texture, is the real star of this dish. The Wild Mushroom pizza with pancetta, caramelized onions, smoked gouda, and red wine demi is Bluefin’s second most popular pizza. The smoked salmon pizza, featuring capers, red onion, quail egg, and goat cheese, is also worth a try.

Over at the Peabody Place shopping center, Encore offers daily pizza specials, all of which are made with a fresh and crispy crust akin to pita bread. The Braised Short Rib pizza features a tomato and onion fondue sauce, fresh mozzarella, incredibly tender and juicy short ribs that have been braised for 24 hours in Beaujolais, and a fresh spring mix. The end result is more like an open-faced sandwich than a pizza, and it literally melts in your mouth. Other daily specials include a garlic ham pizza and Pizza Margherita.

Finally, just a couple blocks away, in the old Café Samovar spot, is Meditrina, which specializes in Mediterranean fare. The Coca is a Spanish-style pizza made with a yeast-free crust that is a cross between a pastry and a cracker. The toppings vary daily depending on the chef’s mood and what ingredients are available. Normally, the sauce is made from pesto, and the topping is fresh-roasted Ripley tomatoes and goat cheese. Other recent toppings have included grilled asparagus, roasted chicken, smoked salmon, and capers. The Coca is a very popular lunch dish and is served with a side salad. It’s just enough to make you full but not fade into a food-induced coma.

Alice’s Urban Market, 513 S. Front (575-9979)

Arcade Restaurant, 540 S. Main (526-5757)

The Majestic Grille, 145 S. Main (522-8555)

Bluefin — Edge Cuisine and Sushi Bar,

135 S. Main (528-1010)

Encore Restaurant and Bar, 150 Peabody Place,

Suite #111 (528-1415)

Meditrina, 83 Union (523-9625)

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Following Orders

There are several Thai restaurants in Memphis these days, but in 1994 there was only one: Jasmine.

Pam and Justin Fong, Jasmine’s owners, are both of Chinese descent but were raised in Thailand. When the Fongs moved to Memphis in 1983 to join family, Pam and Justin got their start working in other people’s restaurants while they raised their three young children: Anna, Nick, and Cindy.

In 1990, the Fongs were ready to open their own restaurant and rented a space in a small strip mall on Covington Pike in Bartlett. Jasmine quickly became a popular spot for Chinese food, and the Fongs began building relationships with their customers. Anna says, “Our customers became our friends and viewed us as their own kids. It really shaped who we are. Our teachers would come eat and tell my parents about our grades. My sister even got an internship from a customer.”

At their customers’ bidding, Jasmine introduced a Thai menu in 1994 and a vegetarian menu soon after. The Fongs refer to these early vegetarian customers as their “founding fathers.” When Justin started preparing dishes with no dairy products or fish sauce, he lost weight, lowered his blood pressure, and felt healthier while still getting to eat the things he loved. He then made it Jasmine’s mission to prepare healthy and creative dishes using fresh ingredients.

News of Jasmine’s Thai and vegetarian menus spread quickly, and the Fongs found that the majority of their customers were driving from Midtown. In 2003, when it was time to renew their lease in Bartlett, the Fongs decided to move the restaurant closer to their customers. To the delight of many Midtowners, they purchased a small house on Cooper Street next to Tsunami in the heart of the Cooper-Young business district.

The new location on Cooper has allowed Justin to experiment more, and he is constantly adding new things to the menu — most recently, lemon-grass tofu and Thai pepper basil. “Each time my dad adds something to the menu,” Anna says, “we think, What are we going to take off? We never end up taking anything off, because we think of certain customers who would be mad if we [did].”

Among those favorite dishes: green-curry tofu, crispy bean curd and fried vegetables with garlic sauce, crispy orange bean curd, and yum tofu. The yum tofu is the perfect combination of hot and sour, featuring flame-broiled tofu, fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, white and green onions, peanuts, cilantro, garlic, and red pepper in a light lemon and soy sauce.

Jasmine also offers a delicious dessert that is hard to find anywhere else in Memphis: mango and sticky rice. Jasmine has fresh, plump mangoes delivered from Houston and serves them alongside special long-grain Thai sticky rice that is mixed with coconut milk to form a custard.

Justin Fox Burks

Justin Fong

Justin is the main chef, but Pam assists with appetizers and desserts. (They have a long-standing argument over who makes the best peanut sauce.) Pam takes all of the orders and delivers all of the food. Customers come for the food and for the company.

“My mom has more friends than anyone I know,” Anna says. “A lot of customers call the restaurant ‘Ms. Pam’s.’ After a bad day at school, my friends go and talk to my mom. She’ll talk about anything.” Pam often greets customers by their first names, asks about their families, and can often be seen happily carrying babies around while grateful parents enjoy their meals.

The Fong children are grown now and have careers of their own. Anna, 28, is studying to be a pharmacist, Nick, 26, is a dentist, and Cindy, 24, is completing an MBA. All three still help out in the restaurant when they can. “I have two lives. People always think I look familiar when I’m at the pharmacy,” says Anna. “Working at the restaurant is my daily bread and my daily meal!”

But those days could be numbered. Justin likes to remind everyone that he plans on retiring in two to three years, and despite the positive experience they say they had growing up in the restaurant, the Fong children have no interest in taking over. Pam says Justin may give his recipes to a nephew, but Anna adds that her dad doesn’t use measuring spoons, so they really need to find someone to come in and make the recipes their own. “We want someone to use our recipes for good and not evil. We don’t want to be like [a big chain restaurant]. We want our product to stay small,” she says.

Perhaps Jasmine’s customers, the ones who were so instrumental in changing Jasmine’s menu a dozen years ago, can change Justin’s mind and convince him to stay in the kitchen a while longer.

Jasmine is open Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 10 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 10 p.m. Closed Mondays.

Jasmine Thai and Vegetarian Restaurant 916 South Cooper (725-0223)