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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Kale Chips

The Cosmic Coconut is an all vegan, all organic juice bar, which is pretty otherworldly for Memphis. I’ve been a fan since day one and often pop in for a Go Green (cucumber, apple, celery, ginger, chard, lemon) juice when I’m running errands out east. On my last few visits, I’ve also picked up an order of their delicious kale chips. I know, right? Kale and chips don’t even belong in the same sentence, but they taste so good it is easy to forget that they derive from a vegetable. The kale is coated in dressing and then put in a dehydrator overnight. The dressing is definitely the secret here. Made from shredded coconut, cashews, garlic, lime, lemon, sea salt, ginger, cayenne, black pepper, carrots, nutritional yeast, and Mexican fiesta seasoning, it is a little sweet, a little spicy, and also quite tangy. After the initial crunch, the chips basically melt in your mouth. Seriously, a vegetable has never tasted this good. — Stacey Greenberg

The Cosmic Coconut, 5101 Sanderlin (729-7134)

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

The Bourne Identity

Thirty thousand people make a living selling hot dogs in New York City. The Bourne brothers, Todd and Tommy, decided to try and do the same in Memphis.

Todd Bourne started selling hot dogs two-and-a-half years ago. He said he woke up one day and told his wife that he wanted to buy a hot dog cart. “She’s from Long Island and said it was okay, but that I couldn’t put no red weenies on it.”

Todd first set up his Memphis Dawgs cart on Union and Main downtown. He sampled many varieties, but says his customers chose the Big Nathan’s, which are quarter-pound, all-beef hot dogs. “I haven’t turned back,” he said.

He eventually left downtown for more eastern pastures on Poplar at Amro Music and then later at Samuel’s Furniture. Six weeks ago, folks from Wolfchase Galleria invited him to set up in the food court with a no-strings-attached deal. They wanted him to use a steam table. But he said he’d feel more comfortable with a cart. “I can sling a lot of weenies off of my cart,” he says.

Todd has two carts in the mall and says he is bringing an outdoor feel inside. “Oh, boy, is it working. It’s getting better and better. I’m going to be there awhile,” says Todd, who admits that he wasn’t sure he’d like it but has quickly grown to love the conditioned air in the mall. Friday, Saturday, and Sunday are his big days: “The rest of the week, it’s tumbleweeds, but they tell me the tide turns when the kids get out of school.”

Selling 200 hot dogs is a good day for Todd. He credits Twitter for changing his business. “The folks who knew me from the street come in and support me,” he says. (His Twitter handle is @memphisdawgs.)

He keeps his business simple: hot dogs, chips, drinks, and two kinds of cake. Hot dogs are $4 and chips and drinks are $1 each. He has a dozen toppings for the hot dogs, but the “Memphis Dawg” is his biggest seller, accounting for 80 percent of sales. It’s topped with creamy cole slaw, a secret spicy barbecue sauce, and celery salt.

“You know, in Memphis you either gotta deep-fry or barbecue. The Memphis Dawg will make a rabbit slap a hound,” he says.

Todd says even his little brother is “hot dogging” now. Thomas, or Tommy, who is two years younger than Todd, started selling hot dogs part-time in 2010 while continuing to work his regular full-time job servicing X-ray processors. “I started using my vacation days to sell hot dogs because I was having so much fun,” Tommy says. “I love being behind the cart and putting smiles on people’s faces.”

He was inspired by the fact that Todd could work from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. and then go fishing. Tommy set up a separate business, Southern Dawgs, and began selling full-time on April 20th. “I started with a regular ol’ meat dog, but since my reputation was at stake, I decided to sell something worth buying and switched to the Nathan’s dog.” He, too, has a variety of condiments including Todd’s secret barbecue sauce.

Tommy followed in his brother’s footsteps by setting up in East Memphis. He’s at Amro two or three times a week and can be found at the gas pumps at the Kirby Gate Kroger on Quince the rest of the week. He also does special events. “Out east, they want things of this nature. They’ve really embraced us,” he says.

Right now, selling 30 hot dogs a day is a good day for Tommy. “I go out wanting to sell 60, but if I sell 15, I’ve made myself happier than if I went to work for eight hours.” He also uses Twitter to generate customers under the name @dawgertom.

Todd’s days of afternoon fishing have ended. He works 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day except Sunday, when he works from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. “I try and take one day off a week, but it’s hard to leave and not worry. It’s like leaving my baby alone.”

Tommy helps Todd out at the mall when it rains, and Todd’s son, who is graduating from White Station High School this year, has also been a big help.

Although Todd and Tommy have both moved east, Todd says his buddy Steve, who sells hot dogs downtown from his Blues City cart, now carries the “Memphis Dawg.” “He had lots of people asking him after I left,” explains Todd, who doesn’t view other carts as competition. “We’re all in this together,” he says.

Follow the Bourne brothers via Twitter:

@memphisdawgs and @dawgertom.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Hunny’s Buns

Chef Marisa Baggett, best known for her sushi skills, has cooked up a new side venture she’s calling Hunny’s Buns. She’s baking fresh yeast buns and packing them with savory fillings. (She also plans to add salty sweet candies and “otherwise intriguing treats” to her offerings.) The five flavors currently available are Asian barbecue pork, chicken kimchee, Japanese-style curry vegetable, orange duck, and mustard pretzel. These are not your typical buns. They are a gourmet version of the steamed buns found in Asian markets. My favorite is the Asian barbecue pork, which is bursting with tender roasted pork tenderloin tossed in a sweet, sesame-scented barbecue sauce. Think of it as the cutest, neatest barbecue sandwich ever. More adventurous eaters will enjoy the chicken kimchee, which includes spicy cabbage, and the orange duck, which includes candied ginger and orange peel. Those who are looking for something a little more standard will appreciate the mustard pretzels that include Chinese hot mustard and hot dogs. (Soy dogs available by request.) Hunny’s Buns are $12 per half-dozen and $22 per dozen. — Stacey Greenberg

Hunny’s Buns: Order online via Facebook or email orderhunnysbuns@gmail.com

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Fries with That?

The French fry has been getting some extra love and attention at local restaurants, and patrons are taking note. It’s hard to narrow down the contenders to a top tier, but Fuel Café, Slider Inn (which is related to Bardog Tavern), and the Brass Door have really done the potato proud and are worth a taste.

At Fuel Café and in the Fuel Food Truck, the French fries are downright pampered. Owner and chef Erik Proveaux has put a lot of time and energy into creating the perfect fry. “I like them to be crispy on the outside, not greasy, and fluffy on the inside with just the right golden-brown color,” Proveaux says. To this end, he has developed a process that yields pretty consistent results.

First, he takes good old Idaho potatoes and cuts them using a wall-mounted French fry cutter. He lets them fall into a bus tub of cold water to soak for at least two hours. Then they are drained and dried on a sheet pan with paper towels. Next, he par-fries them in 300-degree peanut oil and lays them out on sheet pans to cool in front of a fan until they get to room temperature. He wraps the sheet pans, freezes the fries, and later brings them back out to thaw only enough to be separated and bagged up for use on the line.

“They are held in a small freezer in the kitchen, and when we get an order, we fry them to golden-brown deliciousness and toss them in fine sea salt,” Proveaux says.

For those who like fancy dipping sauces with their fancy fries, Fuel has them covered. They serve a plate of fries with three dipping sauces: a creamy truffle Parmesan sauce, a garlicky rouille (homemade olive-oil mayonnaise with smoked paprika and chipotle powder), and sweet chili ketchup sauce.  

Bardog Tavern and Slider Inn owner Aldo Dean says that he got into the restaurant business to sell alcohol. Since Tennessee laws require bars to sell food, Dean figured he might as well serve great food.

Bardog and Slider Inn serve the same fries except the ones at Slider Inn have a little skin on them.

“They’re quarter-inch shoestrings that are shipped in frozen and already cut,” Dean says. Dean likes the shoestring fries because they don’t have a long fry time. “Some places double fry them for extra crispiness, but we don’t have time for that,” he says.

What really sets the fries apart is the special mixture sprinkled on them when they come out. “It’s a secret blend. I can’t tell you what it is,” Dean says. After a pause, he says, “Okay, it’s salt and sugar — a 50-50 mix.”

Dean will not, however, divulge the exact recipe of the legendary bourbon mayonnaise used for dipping. “I should probably get it patented,” he jokes. It was inspired by a dip he had in a Belgian restaurant called Pomme Frite. Both of Dean’s restaurants sell a ton of fries, but Slider Inn sells considerably more due to its more limited menu.

The fries at the Irish pub the Brass Door are also making a name for themselves. Rumor has it that the secret ingredient is duck fat. “It’s all true,” owner Seamus Loftis says. “But I cannot credit the Irish — only my chef, Scott Donnelly.”

Donnelly starts with hand-cut Idaho potatoes, blanches them, and then fries them in a combination of regular fryer oil, lard, and duck fat. “The duck fat and lard impart a slightly sweeter, more potato-y flavor and help get the potato crunchy on the outside and creamy on the inside,” Donnelly says.

The restaurant is currently selling about 500 to 600 pounds of French fries a week. “The hardest part is blanching and frying at the right temperatures,” Donnelly says.

The fries are available as a side or a starter. The starter features a savory house-made curry sauce.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

BÁnh MÌ at Pho Saigon

If you like barbecue sandwiches with hot sauce and cole slaw, then you absolutely have to try a bánh mì sandwich. It takes this hot/sweet/savory combination to the next level. Most Vietnamese restaurants offer bánh mì sandwiches, whether they are on the menu or not. Although bánh mì is technically the term for any type of bread, it is commonly used to denote a small baguette. The small, crunchy baguette is the foundation of the sandwich, which usually includes liver pâté, sliced pork, steamed pork roll, cucumber, pickled carrots and daikon radish, sliced cucumbers, sliced jalapenos, and fresh cilantro. Pho Saigon has taken the bánh mì to the next level by including a layer of crispy and flavorful barbecued pork rather than the typically bland sliced pork used in other restaurants. They also make their own pâté from ground pork and tomatoes. These substitutions make it a bit more amenable to the American, er, Memphis palate. At $3.99 a pop, there really is no excuse for not trying one.

Stacey Greenberg

Pho Saigon, 2946 Poplar (458-1644)

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Tom’s Tiny Kitchen Pimento Cheese

Something is happening in Tom Flournoy’s “tiny kitchen.” He’s found a way to make pimento cheese taste good. Real good. It’s full of thickly shredded, sharp cheddar cheese, mayonnaise, pimentos, onions, and spices. That’s it. Now, I know there are fans out there who think pimento cheese tastes good no matter what, but those of us who thought we didn’t like it have suddenly had to change our tune. Had “Tom’s Son” (that’s what his name tag said) not given me a free sample at the Cooper-Young Farmer’s Market a few weeks ago, I am sure I wouldn’t have even tried it, much less purchased a $7 tub of it. Before I could complete my transaction, two ladies from Cordova came up. They had run out of the delicious sandwich spread and needed more. Now! Tom’s Son wasn’t surprised. Apparently, the city is full of die-hard fans of Tom’s Tiny Kitchen pimento cheese. Available at Miss Cordelia’s, High Point Grocery, and SuperLo Foods on Spottswood.

Tom’s Tiny Kitchen, tjflournoy@gmail.com (569-7677)

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Food & Drink Food Reviews

Vegetarian Cheese and Walnut Loaf Sandwich at Fuel

The vegetarian cheese and walnut loaf sandwich at Fuel isn’t something that I would normally order. Chef Carrie Mitchum, who is a vegan, definitely has a magic touch. The loaf is basically her mom’s meatloaf recipe, minus the beef, with walnuts substituted. It’s a combination of oats, ground walnuts, cheddar cheese, spices, and onions. It’s bound with egg then glazed with ketchup and brown sugar. You can order it hot or cold, but as good as it is, I can’t imagine eating it cold. The sandwich can be made on white, wheat, or a baguette, and the bread is grilled on the flat top with a little olive oil. It’s dressed with Fuel’s signature burger sauce (ketchup, mayo, Dijon mustard, and horseradish), lettuce, tomato, and a dash of sweet chili sauce. It seems like a lot for one sandwich, but everything fits neatly into place and tastes fantastic. This flavorful sammy costs $10 and comes with your choice of fries (Fuel has great hand-cut fries), salad, or chips. Serious fans of the loaf can get a larger serving for dinner with mashed potatoes, green vegetables, and mushroom gravy for $16. — Stacey Greenberg

Fuel Café, 1761 Madison (725-9025) fuelcafememphis.com

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We Recommend We Recommend

Key Lime Pie Ice Cream at La Michoacana

It’s pretty ridiculous how often I go to La Michoacana for paletas. Owner Rafael Gonzalez, seemingly stunned, finally said to me, “You don’t like ice cream?” I’d tried a few tastes here and there, but I was so focused on the rainbow of frozen pops in the front of the store, I couldn’t be persuaded to go any further. Well, big mistake. The ice cream is even better than the paletas. The base for the ice cream and the paletas de leche (creamy pops) is the same, but the ice cream is simply amazing and completely different from the standard fare elsewhere. It’s super creamy yet still light and fluffy. Like the paletas, it is made fresh every day, and that must be the secret to its awesomeness. I’m currently obsessed with the key lime pie, which has the perfect key lime flavor — not too tart, not too sweet. Crumbled cookies (or “crust”) are layered throughout, making this treat better than an actual slice of pie. I like to savor each bite, making sure to get a bit of crust each time. It’s the perfect treat.

La Michoacana, 4091 Summer

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Newman Farms Berkshire Pork Tacos at Las Tortugas

Just when I thought that Las Tortugas couldn’t get any better, they started adding locally sourced meats to the menu. Owner Pepe Magallanes and his son Jonathan were already very particular about every ingredient they used, shopping each morning before the store opened to find the perfect ingredients. Adding Newman Farms pork and Neola Farms beef takes everything up another notch. On a recent visit, I tried the Newman Farms Berkshire pork tacos and was blown away. Pepe and his crew obviously spent a great deal of time cooking the meat to perfection. Marinated in citrus juices and slow-cooked, it’s crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Once shredded and put into corn tortillas with crema, spicy chile sauce, cilantro, onions, and avocadoes, it’s almost too good to be true. At $11.95, it is one of the more expensive items on the menu, but each order includes four tacos, lettuce and cucumber salad, homemade chips, salsa, and avocado sauce. I’m a firm believer that the offerings at Las Tortugas are better fit for fine china than plastic baskets, but I’m happy to be able to enjoy them in such a warm and inviting atmosphere. —

Las Tortugas Deli Mexicana, 1215 S. Germmantown Parkway (751-1200)

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

BLFGT Salad at Felicia Suzanne’s

The BLFGT Salad at Felicia Suzanne’s — OMG! This Southern take on the traditional BLT sandwich features fried green tomatoes rather than regular ol’ tomatoes, which negates the need for bread and makes it one amazing salad. All the ingredients are stellar, but the thick yet crispy Newman Farms bacon is out of this world. Two perfectly fried tomatoes are stacked with strips of bacon and a layer of cheese (the menu reads fresh mozzarella, but I could swear mine had homemade pimento cheese), topped with a heap of baby mixed greens tossed in a delicious rémoulade dressing. The savory and salty crunch of the bacon mixed with the firm sweetness of the tomatoes and the slight kick of the dressing is outstanding. The BLFGT is available on the dinner menu and the Friday lunch menu for $12. It’s the perfect middle to a long, leisurely dinner but can also hold its own as a full meal during lunch. —

Felicia Suzanne’s, 80 Monroe (523-0877)

feliciasuzanne.com