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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Stop, Drop, and Roll at Pacific Rim

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  • Justin Fox Burks

One of my favorite rolls at Sekisui Pacific Rim isn’t actually on the sushi menu. The Stop, Drop, and Roll is listed as an appetizer — most likely due to the fact that it contains neither seaweed nor rice. Yellow fin tuna, avocado, cucumber, and romaine lettuce are wrapped in rice paper, sprinkled with cayenne pepper, and served standing in a puddle of ponzu sauce (made from soy, lemon juice, and rice wine vinegar). Believe it or not, what holds this roll together is mayonnaise. Yes, mayonnaise. But not just any mayo. It’s Kewpie, a special, Japanese variety often found in Sekisui’s rolls. The “mouth feel” is magnificent. The crispiness of the romaine and cucumber superbly balances the delicious squish of the avocado and melt-in-your-mouth premium tuna. The cayenne pepper gives this wrap a fiery touch, hence the reference to fire safety in the roll’s name. Feel free to treat the ponzu sauce as your personal fire extinguisher.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Vegetarian Sandwich at Yang’s Deli

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  • Justin Fox Burks

The first-time visitor to Yang’s Deli on Summer will no doubt be overwhelmed by the choices. The extensive menu features a variety of subs, salads, fried delights, and Chinese food. The chaotic interior is filled with plastic-coated pictures of everything from fried shrimp baskets to shrimp lo mein. I certainly found myself at a loss when presented with so many options.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Tostada de Ceviche Y Camaron at La Playita

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  • Justin Fox Burks

As a child, I snacked on whole lemons, so it should come as no surprise that ceviche — citrus marinated seafood salad — is one of my favorite dishes. The lemon (or lime) juice marinade “cooks” the seafood without heat, which is … well … cool. It is hard for me to eat ceviche without being transported to a tropical retreat in my mind. For those of you without access to my mind, I suggest you get in your car and head to Macon Road for a little taste of paradise. The Tostada de Ceviche y Camaron at La Playita is full of plump shrimp and is piled high on a crispy corn tostada shell. Topped with pico de gallo and fresh avocado, it is addictive. Just writing about it makes me want to drop everything and drive to Bartlett.

The Flyer is archiving its “Recommended Dishes.” This RD is from March 2008.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Tastee & Cozy: On the Road with the Sterns

Before heading out on a 3,200 mile road trip to Yellowstone with our monkeys (Satchel, 7, and Jiro, 5), my husband Warren suggested that we purchase Jane and Michael Stern‘s Road Food book. Being a big fan of the Sterns—I love listening to them describe food on NPR every Saturday morning—I readily agreed.

Our first stop was at Booches in Columbia, MO. It was a pool hall that has been selling burgers since the early 1900s.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Cherry Sno Cone Supreme at Jerry’s

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Jerry’s Sno Cones is the perfect place to reward yourself for surviving a sultry day in the Mid-South. While there, you are sure to see many other survivors slurping ice cream and sno-cones or wolfing down chili cheese fries and burgers. On your first visit, you may feel overwhelmed by the myriad choices of flavors and combinations. The menu’s additions, haphazardly taped to the windows, and the sugar-buzzed people surrounding you — all of them enjoying a different delight — will not make your decision-making any easier.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Sweet Tooth Aching?

At my last appointment, my dentist, Dr. Jodi Rump, informed me that
I had no cavities. Then she directed my attention to her computer
screen, where she had a slideshow of pictures. Not pictures of my teeth
but pictures of cookies. Cookies decorated to look like saddle
oxfords.

“You have to go to the Busy Bakery in Bartlett,” she insisted.
“Their cookies are so good they make my teeth ache.”

Was she merely giving me a tip or trying to give me cavities?

Jodi Rump discovered the Busy Bakery’s owner, Rochelle McMahan,
through her sister-in-law, Katie Rump. Katie is Main Street Dental’s
financial coordinator and a mother of three. “We just called her the
Cake Lady,” Katie says.

Before opening the Busy Bakery last November, McMahan and her
daughter, Christina Hogan, used to do cake and cookie drop-offs at the
Exxon service station on Summer at Graham. “There would be 10 or more
cars waiting — all full of moms,” Katie says with a laugh. “When
McMahan pulled up in her Explorer, everyone jumped out of their cars
clutching their checkbooks.”

McMahan says at the height of their business, she and Hogan were
making two deliveries a day, sometimes in two cars. “After five years,
we were getting extremely busy and decided we better do something,” she
says. “We had a lot of people encouraging us to open a bakery.”

McMahan, a longtime baker who worked at Kay Bakery for more than 11
years, is renowned for more than cakes at her Bartlett storefront.

“We’re an old-fashioned bakery, and we make things that you can’t
find anywhere else, like cream horns, éclairs, turnovers, and
cinnamon rolls,” McMahan says. Her husband, Larry, also makes a variety
of breads to go with the sweets, and McMahan’s nephew and grandchildren
work behind the counter. “We’re a real family business,” she says.

Justin Fox Burks

Rochelle McMahan’s cookies: a labor of love

With so much to choose from, it’s hard to pinpoint the big sellers
at the Busy Bakery.

“Some weeks, it’s cakes. Some weeks, it’s cinnamon rolls,” McMahan
says. For now, the Busy Bakery is trying to keep up with the orders and
hoping that they continue to grow.

Valerie Hamilton, a business developer for a local law firm, says
parents were fighting over who got to take the sticker with the Busy
Bakery contact information off the cake box at her daughter’s 5th
birthday party.

“Zora’s dad heard about [the bakery] and ordered a Tinkerbell cake.
Holy moly, that cake was good!” she says. “The Tinkerbell cake actually
looked like Tinkerbell.”

Katie Rump threw her daughter a movie party on her 6th birthday. The
Busy Bakery created a 3-D cake shaped like a box of popcorn to fit the
theme. Since the featured movie was Hotel for Dogs, McMahan also
made cookies shaped like dogs and used real popcorn to decorate the
platter. But, according to Katie, the most amazing thing was when the
cake was accidentally dropped on the way out of the bakery. McMahan
offered to fix it for free, claiming it was “no big deal.”

So what are McMahan’s favorite cake creations? Hamburgers and
pizzas.

“Kids love pizza, so parents like to get cakes that look like
pizza,” she explains.

In addition to baking, the Busy Bakery hosts birthday parties where
children can make and decorate their own cakes, cupcakes, or
cookies.

“We have a lot of fun at our parties,” McMahan says. “On weekends,
we joke that we should have named ourselves the Busy Busy Bakery!”

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Sopa Pollo at Rio Loco

cce0/1245266498-recdish2.jpgTraditionally when I go to a Mexican restaurant, it’s all about the chips and dip, burritos, chips and dip, big beers, chips and dip, margaritas, and chips and dip. On my last visit to Rio Loco, however, my companion threw me for a loop

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Deal or No Deal?

I love to eat out, but with times being tight, I’ve had to come up
with new ways to justify my fancy-food habit. A friend sent me a coupon
for 80 percent off at restaurant.com, the Chicago-based company
that provides “rich savings” at restaurants all over the country. With
more than 80 restaurants participating locally, I decided to load up on
coupons to a few of my favorite places as well as a couple of new
restaurants I’ve wanted to try. After purchasing $250 worth of coupons
for $11, I felt pretty good about eating out again.

“We help diners enjoy great meals out for less by providing at least
50 percent savings on all restaurant gift certificates,” says Jeff
Conlin, vice president of public relations and corporate communications
for restaurant.com. “Our other
goal is to help restaurants fill empty tables.”

Participating restaurants do not receive any portion of the coupon
sales. Instead, restaurant.com
offers them online exposure with a micro-website as well as detailed
information gleaned from customer survey results. (Each diner is asked
to fill out a survey via e-mail after redeeming a coupon.)

There used to be a two-week delay while the coupons were processed
and mailed out, but the site has been updated so I got a link to my
coupons right away. As I printed them out, I noticed the “Top 3 Ways to
Use Your Certificate,” which included: “1. Ordering Dessert, 2. Trying
an Appetizer, and 3. Going for the Grand Entrée.” (I found that
these suggestions took hold of my subconscious, because rather than
being thrifty when I went out, I probably spent more than I would have
without the coupon. Oops!)

Trisha Gurley has patronized restaurant.com numerous times and says she
mainly uses it for Sekisui coupons. “My husband and I are sushi fiends,
but our budget doesn’t let us indulge as much as we’d like,” she
says.

Paige Walkup also is a big fan of restaurant.com and uses it when she
travels. “Whenever I go to a conference, I check if there are any local
restaurants on the site. I usually cross-reference recommendations from
chowhound.com and roadfood.com to see if it it’s somewhere I
might want to explore,” Walkup says.

Because coupons are typically offered at 50 to 80 percent of their
face value (i.e, a $25 coupon can be purchased for as little as $3),
there are “rules of use” which vary by restaurant.

“Restaurants are allowed a lot freedom to adjust the rules of use.
Some restaurants do not accept certificates on Fridays and Saturdays.
Restaurants also have different minimum food-purchase requirements,”
explains David Lindsey, director of marketing for Sekisui, Inc.
(Sekisui, Bluefin, Sekisui Pacific Rim, and Dish all accept coupons
from restaurant.com.) “For
example, in our restaurants, you have to buy $35 in food to redeem a
$25 certificate. But in some restaurants, you have to buy $45 in food
to redeem a $25 certificate,” Lindsey says.

It is very important for customers to read the rules of use before
they purchase the certificates.

“One problem we see is when people receive these certificates as
gifts,” Lindsey says. “Even though the rules are printed on the
certificate, they don’t take the time to read them, so when the bill is
presented, they are shocked to see an 18 percent gratuity included or
that they didn’t meet the minimum requirements.”

Restaurants are asked to commit to one year when they sign up with
the coupon service, but they can remove themselves from the service at
any time. Michelle Long says she went to a popular local Mexican
restaurant recently and discovered a coupon posted on the door with a
sign that read, “We no longer accept these.”

“The economy is bad, and I wanted my $3 back,” Long says,
laughing.

Restaurant.com does credit
customers in the event that a restaurant stops participating. Conlin
cites the economic downturn as a reason for struggling restaurants to
pull out of the promotion. “The most successful restaurants take
advantage of our reporting tools,” he adds.

Some customers have complained about a third-party offer that is
linked to the purchase site.

“A friend of mine found a charge for $14.95 for Shopping Essentials
after she bought several certificates,” Gurley says. “Apparently, if
you blindly click along while purchasing, you can inadvertently be
signed up for this site and be charged monthly. This has not happened
to me.”

Conlin says that no one likes to be told they didn’t read the fine
print. “Nine times out of 10, that’s what it is,” he says.

Ultimately, it’s about building a mutually beneficial relationship
between the site, the restaurant, and the consumer.

Restaurant.com is probably the
most successful promotional program Sekisui is involved with,” Lindsey
says. “Our philosophy is: A chair with a customer getting a discount is
better than an empty chair.”

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Winging It

One of the most noticeable items on Best Wings’ menu is the option to purchase 1,000 wings for $735.

“I only sold 1,000 one time, and that was to a caterer,” admits Best Wings owner Curtis Chism. The line at lunchtime, however, suggests that Chism knows a thing or two about volume.

You’ll find Best Wings on Summer Avenue near East Parkway. Nestled inside a small strip mall near Family Dollar, Best Wings of Memphis offers a casual atmosphere that specializes in getting customers their food in a timely fashion.

After 10 years of being in business, Best Wings has a very tight system in place, making it a popular stop for the mid-city, on-the-clock lunch crowd. Customers come in, place their order, pay, fix themselves a drink, wait a few minutes for their number to be called, and then head out the door. (Customers can also enjoy their food at a leisurely pace in the restaurant’s newly expanded interior.)

Chism, who got his start in the grocery business, says he opened the restaurant because he loves to cook. Ten years ago, wings were a new concept in Memphis, and he decided to do something a little different. “There was a demand for it,” says Curtis Chism Jr., the owner’s son who managed Best Wings until last year when he opened his own restaurant, Onix, downtown. “My dad always says to give the people what they want.”

At Best Wings they certainly aim to please. The wings are fried whole and then slathered in (or sprinkled with) your choice of sauce. Customers can choose from hot, mild, seasoned mild, honey-glazed, honey-glazed mild, barbecue, honey barbecue, lemon pepper, and regular salt and pepper. While mild sauce is the best seller, there are fans of every sauce. One customer in particular recommends half lemon pepper and half honey-glazed. “It’s the absolute perfect combination of sweet and spicy,” she says.

Wings aren’t the only thing that has people lining up at Best Wings. The fried catfish is arguably even more popular than the chicken. “People love the breading because we make it from scratch,” Curtis Jr. says.

Another trick at Best Wings is to cut the catfish filets into smaller pieces to reduce the greasiness. This light and crispy fish gives “fried” a whole new meaning.

by Justin Fox Burks

Best Wings, located on Summer Avenue, specializes in chicken wings and getting customers their food in a timely fashion.

For those who can’t decide between the chicken and the fish, Best Wings offers a Wing & Catfish basket for just under $10 that includes a generous serving of catfish, three whole wings, a side, carrots, celery, two rolls, and ranch dressing.

In addition to the wings and catfish, Best Wings offers sandwiches, burgers, and even veggie burgers. Side items include fries (seasoned and regular) and fried okra. Those looking to satisfy their sweet tooth must try a slice of employee Ms. Rose’s lemon pound cake. And, of course, no visit to Best Wings would be complete without a glass of sweet tea.

When Curtis Jr. decided to open Onix, he wanted to do a few things differently. Onix bills itself as a restaurant and lounge and features live music on the weekends. “I like to have drinks and relax, so I mixed this into my restaurant,” says the LeMoyne-Owen graduate.

While Onix’ menu offers a variety of seafood and other items, one thing stands out: the wings. Curtis Jr. says he serves the same sauces as Best Wings, but his wings are the smaller, Buffalo-style. He also distinguishes his wings by serving them with Belgian waffles. “Once people try the chicken and waffles, they get hooked,” says Curtis Jr., who first had chicken and waffles in Atlanta.

“I wanted to do something different,” he says, much as his father did 10 years earlier.

While the Chisms have two very different styles when it comes to restaurants, they share the same work ethic. Curtis Jr. credits his dad for passing on his love of cooking as well as his business skills and talent.

“My dad is old-school,” Curtis Jr. says. “He can do a little bit of everything, like fixing the fryer when it breaks.”

Curtis says that despite having nine employees, he still likes to do the cooking himself three or four days a week. “We really love what we do,” Curtis Jr. adds.

Best Wings of Memphis, 2390 Summer, #102 (458-7711)

Onix Restaurant and Lounge, 412 S. Main (552-4609), onixrestaurant.com

by Justin Fox Burks

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Let’s Make a Deal

Has the one-two punch of the rotten economy and holiday shopping left you a little light in the pockets? You say you’re too tired to cook but too broke to go out? Never fear. Eating out doesn’t have to break the bank and spending your money at local restaurants helps support their hardworking owners and staff.

Best Thing Since Sliced Bread

Located in Midtown along a strip of Vietnamese markets and other businesses, Lobster King is well known for its dim sum, fresh seafood, and other specialty dishes. Now they are offering a deal that can’t be beat: bahn mi sandwiches for $2.50.

Have it your way: bahn mi sandwich options at Lobster King

Bahn mi sandwiches combine standard Vietnamese ingredients like thinly sliced carrots, daikon, onions, jalapenos, cilantro, and meat — your choice of chicken, pork skin, meatball, or a combination — on a crusty French baguette. The sandwiches are made to order, so you can sit down and enjoy one in the restaurant or take it to-go. Either way, the turnaround is quick.

You’ll probably need two to get full, but if you buy five, you get one free!

Lobster King Seafood Restaurant, 32 N. Cleveland

(725-5990) lobsterkingseafood.com

Straight to the Heart

Caritas Village, located in the heart of Binghamton, is one part community center and one part restaurant. Its aim is to provide a positive alternative to the street corners for neighborhood children, which is why Caritas Village has a homey feel to it. Comfy sofas, stacks of board games, vibrant art, and lots of friendly faces fill the building.

Chef Erik Waldkrich, who is the son-in-law of Caritas founder Onie Johns, has created a menu of tasty sandwiches and other delights. There is soup always on, and daily specials range from pot roast to chicken shwarma. The specials, which cost a mere $6, come with sides and a dessert. (The coffee bar is the most economical in town.) One meal at Caritas is sure to fill your stomach and warm your heart.

Caritas Village, 2509 Harvard (327-5246)

Nothing Finer

Chef Matthew Crone, a native son who earned his restaurant stripes in Portland, Oregon, recently returned to Memphis to open Sole Restaurant & Raw Bar (along with longtime friend, Chef Jackson Kramer) in downtown’s Westin hotel. The restaurant is decidedly posh and has a cosmopolitan feel, and the menu features mostly seafood with a smattering of beef and chicken for good measure.

If fine dining is no longer in your budget, but you still want the experience, treat yourself to one of Sole’s daily $9 lunch specials, featuring dishes such as grilled salmon with wilted spinach and crispy catfish and creamy Delta grits. The price includes tax and tea, so unless you can’t resist dessert, you won’t break the $10 barrier. I have certainly paid much more for a meal of this caliber. Lunch is served from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., so you could technically have lunch as an early dinner.

Sole Restaurant & Raw Bar, 221 S. Third (334-5950)

solememphis.com

Seven Ways to Save

Clip those coupons. Check out local papers for buy-one/get-one-free coupons, or visit restaurant.com to save yourself from $7 to $30 at a number of eateries, including fine-dining establishments.

• Don’t forget the kids. Many restaurants offer “Kids Eat Free” or “Kids Eat for $1” specials. In fact, with a little research at memphisloveskids.com, you could have the kids eat free nearly every day of the week.

• Be an early bird. Join the octogenarians (and new parents) between 5 to 7 p.m. and save yourself some cash.

• Join the club. Many restaurants reward their frequent visitors through club cards. These cards often earn you a free meal after you purchase a set amount (e.g., buy eight meals, get the ninth free). Some cards allow you to accrue a percentage of each meal.

• Do lunch. Many restaurants have great lunch specials. Take advantage of them. Even if you don’t get the special, chances are you’ll spend a lot less eating lunch than dinner.

• Water, please. Don’t order soda and automatically save yourself a couple of bucks. (Skip the alcohol and save even more.)

by Justin Fox Burks

and the results…