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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Next Level in Bartlett; pickle happy hour at Hu.; plus — Spirits & Soul Fest; Brewfest.

Willie Haynes is a Philadelphia Eagles fan. But Next Level Sports Bar, Haynes’ new bar in Bartlett opening Thursday, April 25th, will not be an Eagles place, per se. Instead, he sees fans from all teams gathering there, talking some shit — “That’s what makes it fun,” says Haynes — and having a good time. “It’s open for everybody,” he says.

At the opening, Tennessee Titans tight end Jonnu Smith will be there, signing autographs and talking guests through the draft. On Friday, the second night of the draft, Xavier Woods of the Cowboys will be there. On the third night of the draft, Next Level is not doing anything special because, Haynes assures, “Nobody watches the third round.”

Justin Fox Burks

Willie Haynes’ Next Level showcases sports stars like Muhammad Ali.

Along one wall, there is massive projected screening. Ain’t no way you’re missing the game. There are TVs scattered about as well. And, as this is a sports bar, games will be played — pool, darts. Then there’s the mechanical bull. “Who doesn’t want to ride it?” ponders Haynes, while admitting, “You’ll never see me on the bull.”

Football helmets adorn a waist-high dividing wall, and prints of sports legends provide some color. Muhammad Ali bursts from a collection of colorful rectangles and spatters. Off to one side is a walk-in humidor, where guests can stash their cigars at 70 percent humidity. A back bar offers cigars as well — Monte Cristo, Rocky Patel, and the like.

Muhammad Ali

The menu is solidly sports bar fare — burgers, pizza, sandwiches — divided into sports-themed sections: Starting Line-up, End Zone, Victory Lap.

Among the pizzas are the Touchdown with pepperoni, Canadian bacon, and Italian sausage; the Flying Eagle is topped with buffalo chicken and blue cheese crumbles.

The Heavy Weight Champ features shaved sirloin, peppers, sauteed onions and mushrooms, topped in a cheese sauce and served on a hoagie roll. The All Star burger is your classic — with lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, and onions. It comes with a secret sauce. The Memphis Express sandwich has since been renamed. It’s deep fried catfish.

Haynes once operated a bar in Frayser, which is where he grew up. He now lives nearby Next Level. “It’s just a nice neighborhood,” he says.

Haynes says he’s older and wiser than he was when he ran that first bar, and he plans to apply what he learned then. “Now that I’m older,” he says, “really all I have is my family and sports.”

Next Level is open Sunday through Thursday, noon to 1 a.m., and Friday and Saturday, noon to 3 a.m.

Next Level Sports Bar, 2857 Appling Way, thenextlevelsportsbar.com

Hu. Diner’s charcuterie plate

Pickles on pancakes? It’s not as unlikely as you might think. TJ Harville, executive chef of Hu., imagines turning pickled raspberries into a syrup. In fact, there’s just about nothing Harville wouldn’t pickle.

“I’m fascinated with eating them and making them,” he says.

Hu. recently introduced its pickle-centric happy hour, Pickled Happy Hour, running from 5 to 6:30 p.m. every day at the Downtown hotel’s bar. It features a small-ish menu of pickle-fied snacks and cocktails.

The menu has deviled eggs (made with pickle juice) and chicharrones. The charcuterie plate includes meats from City Block Salumeria and a selection of pickled vegetables like tomatoes, green beans, and celery.

Harville has a base brine that he will build on for certain items. The celery is made with a brine jacked up with smoked paprika and jalapeño. The celery is used in the bar’s Bloody Mary. The tomatoes and the cucumber pickles take advantage of the basic brine, which has champagne vinegar, which is not as potent as regular vinegar, says Harville.

On to the cocktails … The Pickle Rick is made with a raspberry pickle syrup and topped with pilsner, what Harville calls a summer patio drink. The Gibson is the straightforward classic with Beefeater, vermouth, and a pickle. The Pickleback is a shot of Jameson and a shot of pickle juice — a standard of the restaurant industry.

Harville says that pickling is fundamental to cooking, especially Southern cooking. He embraces the idea of Hu. becoming Pickle Central. “It’s something I’m super passionate about,” he says.

Hu. Diner, 3 S. Main, huhotelmemphis.com

The Spirits and Soul Fest is happening next Friday and Saturday Downtown. The event is in conjunction with the Tennessee Whiskey Trail and Memphis’ bicentennial celebration.

Friday, on South Main (from G.E. Patterson to Talbot), from 6 to 9 p.m., ticket holders can sample whiskeys from distillers along the trail. On Saturday, noon to 5 p.m., the party moves to Old Dominick on Front Street. It will include cocktails and food from local food trucks. There will also be seminars on making classic cocktails and stories from the trail.

Day passes are $75; two-day passes $100.

For tickets and more information, go to spiritsandsoul.com.

Memphis Brewfest is returning May 11th, from 4 to 7 p.m., at the Liberty Bowl.

If you like beer even the tiniest bit, you won’t want to miss this one. Brew Fest features beers from some 50-plus domestic and international breweries. A “best of Belgium” beer garden will be curated by the folks from Flying Saucer. Plus, there’s music from Drunk Uncle, pictures in the Amurica booth, and food from Cousins Maine Lobster, MemPops, New Wing Order, DineOneOne, and others.

Tickets are $45; $100 for VIP. For tickets and more information, go to memphisbrewfest.com.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

The Ins and Outs of Margaritas

Folks. Folks! Margarita Festival is coming up. It’s the most wonderful time of the year for all y’all who like an expertly crafted margarita surrounded by good friends and good food. This year, as always, area restaurants will be vying to win Best Margarita. Among the contenders are Agavos, Blue Monkey, Babalu, Regina’s, Mi Tierra, My Favorite Place, and many more. Proceeds from the event go to Volunteer Memphis, and tickets always sell out. This is a 21 and up event and is set for May 11th, 3 to 6 p.m., at Fourth Bluff Downtown.

To talk us through the beautiful mysteries of the margarita, we turned to one of Memphis’ most notable bartenders, Dave Parks. (Many know him as “Parks!”) Parks has been behind the bar at all of Memphis’ most happening restaurants. He’s currently serving drinks at Iris.

Jennifer M | Dreamstime.com

What’s your view on margaritas?

It brings in spring. Coming out of the cold weather, most people are leaning toward heavier, more warming drinks — whiskey, things like that. And then when the weather starts to warm up, people want something that’s a little lighter, a little more refreshing, and margaritas kind of epitomize that ringing in of spring.

Do you like making them?

Oh, yeah.

Do you have a view on the way they’re made?

Okay, mixes … how about no.

They’ve got way too much corn syrup in there and flavorings, and they hurt so bad the next day, even if you use a decent tequila. You use other ingredients that are pretty good, and when you use the mix, it’s not good. It’s gonna hurt tomorrow.

What’s your approach?

I’ve always used a straightforward, easy-to-remember formula. It’s 2:2:1:1.

I do two parts tequila, and in margaritas, I always go with a white tequila. As long as it’s one that’s a decent quality. There are ones out there that are really inexpensive like Espelon. Or, you can go a little higher with Casa Noble.

So, two parts tequila, two parts lime juice. I like fresh lime juice. If you’re feeling lazy, Nellie & Joe’s makes a commercial key lime juice. And if you cut that with half water, it’s perfect. You can keep that in your fridge, and it lasts for four weeks.

And then one part orange curacao. You can use a triple sec, but I like the orange curacao, though, because it’s a little richer and it’s not any more expensive.

And one part agave nectar. I always cut that with about half water, too, because it’s so thick.

Quick and simple: two parts tequila, two parts juice, one part orange curacao, one part agave syrup.You can make them, no problem, in no time at all.

When someone is drinking a margarita, what should they be tasting?

I like dry and citrusy.

Sometimes if you want something that’s a little richer, you can go with a Reposada tequila. You can smell and taste a little toffee or caramel in it.

At some places, you can order multi-colored margaritas and the like. What’s your take on the novelty margarita?

All to taste, if you’re looking for that sort of thing. You feeling festive? Yummy. Blue curacao — you know that turns drinks blue. Well, it’s just a colored version of orange curacao. It’s a novelty item.

Are you a frozen or on the rocks guy?

I don’t like them frozen. I like them on the rocks. I actually drink them chilled and then strained.

Anything else we should know about margaritas?

Spend money on your ingredients; you’ll be a lot happier the next day. Don’t don’t end up with heartburn. It’s because [your favorite place to get a margarita is] using a lime juice that will claim to be a lime juice. You know, there are several brands out there, when you look at the ingredients in there, they’re water, corn syrup, citric acid, and food coloring. So it’s not the food that’s giving you the heartburn, it’s the poor quality margarita that they’re making you.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Mama Gaia Ballet Memphis Location To Close

Bianca Phillips

It was announced today that Mama Gaia, an all-organic vegetarian restaurant, will close its Ballet Memphis location at the end of April.

Mama Gaia was one of the first businesses to open in Crosstown Concourse. It opened in  spring 2017.

The restaurant offered pitas, quinoa bowls, salads, and soups.

The restaurant was owned by Cru and Philipp von Holtzendorff-Fehling. Philipp said before the opening: “Our goal is to inspire people to be more conscious about what they are eating and encourage them to incorporate high-quality, organic foods into their regular diet to promote healthy living and a sustainable environment. Right now, we are focusing all our efforts on building our brand with this Crosstown location, but we hope to make it an emerging trend for future generations.”

The Crosstown restaurant closed in September. Saucy Chicken, owned by the same ownership group, took over the space.

The second Mama Gaia opened in Ballet Memphis in August 2017.

From the release:

MAMA GAIA to cease operations in Ballet Memphis’ Midtown headquarters
Mama Gaia will be open until April 30, 2019; Ballet Memphis in discussion with potential new partner

MEMPHIS, TENN. (April 17, 2019) – – – MAMA GAIA, a fast-casual organic vegetarian cafe, will close its location in Ballet Memphis, effective the end of April. Mama Gaia has leased the cafe space at Ballet Memphis’ headquarters at 2144 Madison Avenue since September 2017 and will continue operations through April 30, 11am – 6pm Monday through Saturday.

This was the second location for Mama Gaia; it closed its original Crosstown Concourse cafe in September 2018 in order to focus on catering operations and other ventures. The ownership group opened the successful Saucy Chicken concept in the same Crosstown location.

“We have enjoyed our nearly two-year partnership with Mama Gaia, and we look forward to welcoming another enthusiastic partner to our beautiful cafe space here at Ballet Memphis,” Dorothy Gunther Pugh, CEO & Founding Artistic Director, said. “The Memphis food scene in the Midtown area is thriving and we are excited to be a part of it. We wish the Mama Gaia team all the best in future endeavors.”

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Margarita Fest Coming at Ya

A few exciting changes for this year’s Margarita Fest. It’s got a new earlier date, now set for May 11th, 3-6 p.m. And it’s got a new setting — the Fourth Bluff Downtown.

Imagine it — you, a ‘Rita, and the sweeping views of the river.

As always, area restaurants will be vying for the prize — Best Margarita in Memphis. Past winners Blue Monkey and Agavos will be there slinging their best. Among the other participants are Babalu, Mi Tierra, My Favorite Place, and many more.

Tickets get guests 15 samples, but don’t worry, full-size drinks are available as well.

Tickets usually sell out for this one. Don’t tarry.


Proceeds go to Volunteer Memphis.

You must be 21 or over to attend. 

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News News Blog

Memphis Pets of the Week (April 11-17)

Each week, the Flyer will feature adoptable dogs and cats from Memphis Animal Services. All photos are credited to Memphis Pets Alive. More pictures can be found on the Memphis Pets Alive Facebook page.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Phillip Ashley Chocolates Opens Saturday

On Saturday, chocolatier Phillip Ashley Rix will unveil his latest shop, Phillip Ashley Chocolates at 1200 Madison in the Medical District.

The space is significantly bigger than the Cooper-Young shop, with an expansive kitchen in the back, big enough to host chocolate making classes come summer.

“We needed the space to grow,” explains Rix.

Rix is a self-taught chocolatier who launched his business in 2012. Part of the appeal of his chocolates were the unique ingredients — sweet potato! — and another was the beauty of his product — pretty gem shapes with airbrushed lines and splatters. Rix was also savvy in pursuing partnerships with area chefs and events like the Grammys and the Oscars. He’s also built quite a business in supplying businesses — FedEx, ServiceMaster among them — with chocolates for employee and client gifts.

Rix says the place was no more than a two walls and a bare floor when he first saw it. Today, it is an airy spot with a long counter topped with Rix’ treats. At front, there are a few tables to encourage guests to stop for a coffee or tea, which the shop will offer. (Rix sees this as a cafe.)

Along one wall are shelves. The bottom few will feature goods from mostly local African-Americans purveyors. Items such as Pop’s Kernal Popcorn and Beneva Mayweather rolls will be included. Rix also plans collaborations with such businesses as Sweet Magnolia gelato.

Art will be shown on a rotation. Right now, it’s the work of Danny Broadway, a longtime friend of Rix. 


The store will sell its 24 signature flavors — French blue cheese, bourbon and fig, and sweet potato are a few. There will also be the Memphis collection — 12 pieces that sum up Memphis in a bite. We’re talking sweet tea lemon, peanut butter and banana, and barbecue, of course. There’s also one Rix named Hot Buttered Soul (!).

Rix is encouraged by all the traffic; some 24,000 cars pass by in a day. He says people have been stopping by already, though they aren’t open yet. Indeed, two such folks came in during our interview.

In addition to the new shop, Rix will introduce a monthly chocolate subscription service on Saturday. It’s $49 per month, with six chocolates per package. “It’s for the chocolate person,” says Rix.

Grand opening is Saturday, April 13th, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Individual chocolates will be sold for $2 each.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Gelato fix from Sweet Magnolia, Dipsticle.

Hugh Balthrop, the owner of Sweet Magnolia Gelato Company, has a vision for his new production space. He’d like to have a commercial kitchen in the back, with retail up front. A glass wall would separate the front from the back, so customers would be able to see how the gelato gets made.

“It’d be like an interactive experience,” Balthrop says.

Sweet Magnolia has to move from its current production space in Clarksdale, Mississippi. Balthrop has been considering new spaces in Clarksdale, Oxford, and Memphis. A North Mississippi spot would be good for his employees, Balthrop allows, and Oxford has a kitchen that is already FDA-approved.

Justin Fox Burks

Sweet Magnolia Gelato Company

“This has been one of the most challenging decisions I’ve ever made in my life in terms of business,” Balthrop says.

He admits to feeling a pull from Memphis. “We’ve been around for almost eight years, and we made our first retail partner in Memphis. It was Miss Cordelia’s, and they gave us our first opportunity and then we got into Whole Foods and we’re in a lot of restaurants [in Memphis].”

Balthrop likes Downtown and Midtown for options, and he’s particularly keen on the Edge District, though he thinks that it would take two years to get production up and running, and he knows that gelato waits for no man.

Dipsticle, Facebook

The good news is that Sweet Magnolia is opening its first retail location at 409 South Main, the food hall which features City Block Salumeria, Civil Pour, Dee’Lightful Bliss Bakery, and more. He hopes to be open by May 1st. (It has been reported that Sweet Magnolia was taking over the ice cream parlor at Railgarten, but that deal fell through.)

At 409, Sweet Magnolia has secured a spot at the window and there will be a floating bar there, so guests can check out the South Main flow. Balthrop ordered a special display cabinet from Italy that keeps the temperature gelato-appropriate. And, right now, Balthrop is hooking up with local farmers to secure the best, freshest ingredients.

At the new store, Balthrop is planning to collaborate with Dee’Lightful Bliss, which already serves the gelato on its skillet cookie. There will be milkshakes and cookie sandwiches and pints to buy (think classics like strawberry cheesecake, brown sugar and bourbon, and honey vanilla) as well as Affagatos (gelato spiked with espresso). There will be JustWater for sale. (Will Smith’s son Jaden is behind JustWater, which is sold in cartons rather than plastic bottles) and Shotwell and Phillip Ashley candies. There may be something cooking with Civil Pour.

Ultimately, Balthrop hopes to franchise Sweet Magnolia some day. The gelato is currently available at about 100 places from Memphis to the Gulf Coast all the way to Atlanta.

sweetmagnoliagelato.com

Dipsticle Artisan Gelato Cafe is located in Cordova at the Trinity Commons shopping center, near the Kroger and next to Cedars restaurant. It opened in 2017. New ownership took over in December.

The first order of business for the new owner Katrina Younis: marketing. Younis studied business in college and applied what she learned. She took to social media, posting images on Instagram of Dipsticle’s gelato on a stick (some dipped in chocolate, some not), along with some of happy customers. She went on Twitter and Facebook. She began actively pursuing events where her product fit. (One such event was the Grind City Coffee Expo.) Anything to get the Dipsticle brand out there.

One thing Younis never considered was changing the name. “It’s a fun name,” she says, adding that it fits because of the option of having a chocolate-dipped pop. “We recommend dipping,” she says. “It’s absolutely delicious.”

Dipped and drizzled treats from Dipsticle Artisan Gelato Cafe

Dipsticles offers around 25 flavors — cookies and cream, caramel coffee cake, pistachio, orange cream, mango and green apple sorbets. They also have assorted coffee drinks and milkshakes. Then there’s the wafflsticle — a waffle on a stick. The waffles are red velvet, Belgian (regular), chocolate, and cinnamon. And, yep, it can also be dipped in chocolate. They look sort of like corndogs.

Younis says she had yearned to own a business, and the gelato biz seems ideal for her. She loves to experiment in the kitchen, and she has a pretty big sweet tooth. “It’s been crazy busy,” she says, “but so much fun.”

Dipsticle Artisan Gelato Cafe,
694 N. Germantown Pkwy. (614-9622), dipsticle.com

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Tiger Bryant Talks Tops

Justin Fox Burks

Yesterday, it was announced that a new ownership group was taking over Tops Bar B Q. Among that group is Tiger Bryant, who is behind Soul Fish and Young Avenue Deli.

Bryant discussed his thinking behind the move and the group’s plans for Tops.

What was the idea behind this?
Tiger Bryant: It’s an iconic brand. The primary investors [Darrell Horn and Matt Salisbury] and myself were raised on barbecue. Back when Mr. Messick [who bought the business in the 1980s] passed away, we started to make inquiries.

Are you worried you’re going to mess it up?
No. There are no plans to change anything. The long-term employees are really part of the asset. Everybody is still secure in their jobs.

What do you like specifically about Tops?
It’s got the natural Memphis feel to it. It’s kind of old school.

I think it’s very welcoming, really, to all walks of life. I don’t care if you’re an attorney or a ditch-digger, you’re just as welcome and you’re going to get the same food.

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Was there any resistance from the family to selling?
It just naturally worked out. Ralph [Horn, Darrell’s father] is very tied to the financial world and they bumped into who I guess was the family trustee [and they said they were considering selling] and that just started the dance.

You said you weren’t going to change anything, but are you going to add to menu, maybe broaden it?
We’re not changing anything right now. I’ve had these phone calls and texts today telling me not to mess with the hamburger, don’t mess with the barbecue. I’m like, guys, nothing is changing.

If anything, we’re going to bring some operational efficiency and try to help the stores work at the same speed of service.

Do you have a particular Tops location that is your location?
I grew up in Central Gardens.

Anything else?
Like I said, I think everybody’s excited. We’ve brought in a great team, which I think is going to bring a lot to the table.

We’re taking the ball and running with it, but we’re not going to spike it.

Justin Fox Burks

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Tops Under New Ownership

memphisbbqguide.com

Announced this morning, Tops Bar-B-Q has been sold to an investment group, which includes Tiger Bryant, who is behind Young Avenue Deli and Soul Fish.

The other investors are Darrell Horn of Green Wealth Management and Matt Salisbury, a banker. Terry Trim, a restaurant vet and most recently director of operations at Kooky Canuck, will act as president.

The restaurant, which has 15 locations in the area, is known for its pulled pork topped burgers and brisket.

Full release below.

Tops Bar-B-Q Announces New Ownership

Investor group acquires the 67-year-old award-winning restaurant group and iconic brand
New owners will continue the legendary restaurant’s tradition of great barbeque, delicious burgers and friendly service

MEMPHIS, TENN. – April 2, 2019 – Tops Bar-B-Q today announced that the company has been acquired by an investor group led by Darrell Horn, Matt Salisbury, and Tiger Bryant, a local restaurateur and founder of Soul Fish Café and Young Avenue Deli. With 15 locations throughout the greater Memphis area, the award-winning Tops Bar-B-Q has been serving classic barbeque, burgers and more in a family-friendly atmosphere for 67 years.

The new ownership team brings to the table both extensive restaurant expertise and financial acumen to build on what is already a successful business. Maintaining the warm customer experience, popular menu and friendly staff – the heart and soul of Tops – are the owners’ top priorities.

“Tops Bar-B-Q is a special institution in Memphis, and barbeque is big business here,” said Bryant. “Tops offers not just outstanding food, it is also a true gathering place where people from all walks of life – of all ages – come to enjoy.”

Nurturing the business and allowing it to continue for years to come was the impetus for one of the lead investors, Darrell Horn – a diehard fan of Tops’ barbecue since childhood – to buy the company. His father Ralph Horn is also an investor in the company. Ralph, the retired CEO of First Tennessee, is well known for the award-winning, positive workplace culture he helped build at the bank.

“Tops is very personal to a lot of people around Memphis, and it’s important to us to keep that tradition alive for many years to come,” said Darrell Horn. “Years ago, my grandfather used to drive from Mississippi specifically to eat at Tops Bar-B-Q. We owe a debt of gratitude to the Messick family, George ‘Monty’ Montague and the entire team for making Tops such a special place for so many people. In the coming years, we look forward to bringing Tops Bar-B-Q to a new generation of patrons in the greater Memphis area.”

Tops’ long-standing CEO Monty Montague, who has been with the company for 45 years, was part of the ownership search, looking at potential buyers alongside the trust that held the company after Messick’s passing. The 81-year-old Montague will continue in his current role at Tops and will be joined by Terry Trim as the new President who brings over 30 years of restaurant executive and operating experience. Horn, Salisbury and Bryant will serve on the Tops Bar-B-Q Board.

“One of our goals was to get new ownership that would be a good fit for our company, and we got a good fit,” said Montague. “We want to continue with the same culture and the same delicious barbeque, and do it the way we’ve been doing it for years – the old fashioned way. That’s the successful way.”

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Jerry’s Causes Stir with Orange Shirt

Jerry’s, Facebook

Jerry’s Sno Cones, the beloved purveyor of frozen treats, upset some true-blue tigers fans when they posted an orange (UT) Jerry’s shirt on Twitter. Calls for a boycott were made.

“I got a bunch of girls, you know — hundreds of them for years,” says David Acklin of Jerry’s. “They really wanted an orange T-shirt to take back. They want to take a piece of Memphis.”

(They also have a blue shirt.)

Claims were made that Jerry’s Twitter account was then deleted. Acklin denies this but says he’s not social media savvy. He says that they blocked those who were not followers and those who were being overly rude and using crass language.

Jerry’s Causes Stir with Orange Shirt

“We didn’t shut down Twitter,” he says. “We didn’t want it to be used as a platform for people to be hateful to each other.”

Ultimately, says Acklin, he’s heartened by the fervor of Memphis fans.

“We want Memphis football to do well; we want soccer to do well, and we want people to show up no matter. Whether we’re losing or not, show up.”

Acklin adds that they adding a new sno cone called Eye of the Tiger tomorrow. What’s the flavor?

“We’re still working on it,” he says.