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Food & Wine Food & Drink

This, That

“I skate. I don’t do it out there,” says Mark Horrocks, pointing to a massive open space filled with ramps of various heights and an intimidating halfpipe.

Horrocks considers himself more of a long boarder and snowboarder. He is co-owner of Society Skatepark & Coffee, along with Matthew Wrage. The park is in the Binghampton neighborhood and opened last fall. It took some doing. The ramps were once the property of the recently closed Hazard County Skatepark in Atlanta. The Society crew headed there and dismantled the park. It took six semi trucks to get it back to Memphis.

Society is the only private indoor park in this area, which means, says Horrocks, that folks can “go year-round, rain or shine, day or night.”

Justin Fox Burks

Mark Horrocks, co-owner of Society Skatepark & Coffee

The park is ideal for parents who want their kids in a safe environment, while they can be inside in air conditioning and read or work on their computers and have a cup of coffee.

About that coffee — they offer Dr. Bean’s cold brew and assorted coffee drinks made with Vice & Virtue. They plan to highlight Memphis-roasted coffees and introduce some out-of-town brands as well. Inside a case is an eye-widening array of treats — huge brownies, rice krispies treats, and chocolate chip cookies, about which Horrocks says, “People have told us it’s the best chocolate chip cookie ever.” Everything is made in-house.

They also offer cold drinks and a few grab-and-go items, such as pasta salad from Franco’s Italian Kitchen. They plan to expand the grab-and-go menu soon with sandwiches and salads.

Justin Fox Burks

One corner of the front half of Society is devoted to Contact Skateboard Shop, which is run by Zac and Heather Roberts.

Contact offers everything a skater could need or want. Customers can custom-build their skateboards. There are decks from 5boro and Alien Workshop, wheels from Super Juice, and trucks from Ace. Many of the items are exclusive to the store.

Of course, you have to look the part. (How much of skating is style? “Everything,” Roberts says. “That’s all there is. It’s wild.”) They’ve got your New Balance and Lakai skate shoes, your Dickies Flex pants, and various branded T-shirts and hoodies.

Society offers lessons for the kids every Saturday for the wee beginners to the more advanced shredders. Horrocks says sometimes the girls outnumber the boys. There are also classes for adults on Monday nights.

At some point, Society plans to hold concerts and bring in pros for demos as well as hold competitions. In the spaces with the ramps, there is art by Birdcap, and a really stark and cool mural by Frances Berry surrounds the halfpipe.

At one point, Horrocks recalls asking himself, “Is this a good thing to do?” These days, he’s feeling pretty optimistic.

“For Memphis,” he says, “[skate culture]’s only going to grow.”

Society Skatepark & Coffee, 583 Scott, societymemphis.com

A few years ago, Ephie Johnson threatened her sons Andre and Jonathan that she was going to open a shop and have them work in it. They didn’t believe her. She opened her first Pop-a-roos on North Parkway Downtown in 2014.

The second Pop-a-roos opened in the Crosstown Concourse a few weeks ago.

The thinking behind Pop-a-roos was that she likes popcorn. Johnson’s dad was her inspiration. “My dad made all kinds of popcorn, fun different flavors,” she says, recalling that her dad made use of such ingredients as Smucker’s syrup.

Ephie Johnson

It was Johnson’s mother who really fostered her creativity. Johnson says that her mother can make anything taste good, and when her mother compliments her popcorn or asks her to bring her some, it’s the ultimate seal of approval.

Among the flavors she offers are: River Mix, Real Dill, Loaded Baked Potato, Sharp Cheddar, Banana Pudding, Strawberry Cheesecake, Birthday Cake, Nacho Cheese, 901 Mix, and Chicago Mix. Price points run from $2 to $20.

Among the more popular popcorns are the Chicago (caramel and cheddar) and River Mix (peanut butter, caramel, and cheese).

“I’m not going to tell you that much,” Johnson says when asked about her approach to making her popcorns. And she doesn’t.

Johnson also runs the Neighborhood Christian Centers, which offers assistance to those in need. Some of the Centers’ clients work for Pop-a-roos. “It’s popcorn with a purpose,” she says.

Among the offerings at Pop-a-roos are hot dogs and koolickles (pickles made with Kool-Aid). The purple koolickle is grape flavored and the red is well … “Red flavor can be whatever flavor is red,” Johnson says.

Painted on one wall of the new space in the Concourse is “It’s on and poppin.” Feels like a pretty apt motto for Johnson.

“I’m a black woman out here trying to make it happen,” she says.

poparoos.com

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Barbarossa Brothers Opening Downtown

Imaadh Jayah, Mustapha Mustapha, and Omar Mustapha

Barbarossa Brothers is opening on April 17th in the Sam’s space at 7 N. Main Downtown.

But, Sam’s fans, don’t fret. Sam’s will still be around during the day for breakfast and lunch. Barbarossa will take over the space at 5:30 p.m.

Barbarossa will be Sam’s “alter ego,” explains Imaadh Jayah, who is behind the concept with longtime friend Omar Mustapha.

They think of it as “pop-up-ish but permanent.” Jayah says it will sort of be like when Kelly English took over the menu of the Five Spot. The integrity of Earnestine & Hazel’s was intact, but you could get a great meal there.

“The foundation is nice,” says Jayah of Sam’s. “We’re going to add to that. It will be the perfect blend.”

Jayah will be in charge of the menu. He’s cooked as such fine-dining establishments as McEwen’s and Flight.

Mustapha will be in charge of front of house and marketing.

Barbarossa is named after 16th century pirates. It’s applicable here, says Jayah, because he and Mustapha feel boundless in terms of the food and the scope of the project.

Mustapha has been working on an app called Edesia, which tracks local food trucks. They hope to incorporate that app, along with working with local artists while encircling young folks and creative types into a sort of community revolving around the restaurant. The goal — fingers crossed — is to one day host a festival.

The food at Barbarossa will be heavily Mediterranean/Greek with hints of Cajun. Jayah explains that this was how he learned to cook. There’s his take on Shrimp & Grits, with a harissa tomato broth and couscous, along with garbanzo croutons. The Greek Fries, they say, are outrageous with Kasseri cheese, gyro meat, and gravy — like an exotic poutine. There are pasta bowls and salads and lots of favorite dishes from Sam’s — wings, catfish, burgers.

So what’s in it for the owner of Sam’s, Mustapha Mustapha, who is the father of Omar? They say it took some convincing but the elder Mustapha saw the potential of a new clientele.

“We’re really trying to get the city involved,” they say.

Barbarossa Brothers will have a soft opening starting April 17th and will have a grand opening a week later.

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News News Blog

Memphis Pets of the Week (March 21-27)

Each week, the Flyer will feature adoptable dogs and cats from Memphis Animal Services. All photos are credited to Memphis Pets Alive. More pictures can be found on the Memphis Pets Alive Facebook page.

[slideshow-1]

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We Recommend We Recommend

Memphis 101 at Civil Rights Museum

The New Memphis Institute works to make Memphis “magnetic.” What that means in practical terms is that they aim to get folks rooted and engaged, because if you’re involved in your community, chances are you’ll stay in that community.

They have three programs: Embark for 20-somethings; Fellows for those in their 30s; and Intensive Senior Executive for director types. They hold “Instant Memphian” events for newcomers, teaching them the Tiger fight song or pointing them to a good barbecue spot. Their popular Exposure day event, held around the first of September (9-01), involves a celebrity kickball day and beer.

Calvin L. Leake | Dreamstime.com

Calling all Bluff City history buffs

“Memphis 101” is an event they hold regularly. It’s led by Jon Campbell and Ken Taylor. “It’s history class, essentially,” says Anna Thompson, communications specialist for New Memphis. “Why we are where we’re at, to make more sense of this.”

The next “Memphis 101” will be Tuesday, March 19th, at the National Civil Rights Museum.

The event is described as a crash course that will explore “why Memphis is the place it is today and how our history impacts where we are headed.”

The evening will be divided into themes like music, food, politics, etc.

“We’ll go into why we were a music hub and what being a birthplace of rock-and-roll did for other music of today,” Thompson says.

Thompson says they’ll also get into some uncomfortable topics, such as systematic repression.

Thompson notes that the class may be of special interest because of the upcoming Memphis bicentennial. Folks should know what’s what.

And, it’s worth pointing out there there will be food and drink at the event: Central BBQ and local beers. Very Memphis.

“Memphis 101” at the National Civil Rights Museum, Tuesday, March 19th, 6-8 p.m. RSVPs required: newmemphis.org/events

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Women’s Water at Evergreen Theatre

Water is necessary for life, but it can also be destructive. “Women’s Water” will dive into all of water’s aspects during this poetry/performance event.

“Women’s Water” is not put on by a specific group. It’s friends going on stage sharing their poetry/gifts — going with the flow, as it were. Among those participating are Bria Brown, Jasmine Settles, Akina Morrow, MadameFraankie, and Rheannan Watson.

Settles says water signifies birth, renewal, and cleansing. The link between women and water is strong. Settles points to women carrying life as the biggest example.

When it rains, it pours.

“Women’s Water” will be divided into three phases: drought, flood, and dance. The drought section will denote a “lack thereof,” Settles says. It will take a look at when people don’t have the basic necessities. Flood will cover the feeling of drowning, when life becomes too much. Dance will be about how we move through the phases.

And while one of the phases is titled “Dance,” the only dancing during “Women’s Water” will be symbolic. “It’s how we move through life,” Settles explains.

Settles says there will be some heavy topics touched on, like Hurricane Katrina and the Flint Water Crisis.

And, of course, the Mississippi River will make an appearance.

“Yeah,” Settles says, “we mention the Mississippi often.”

“Women’s Water: the Emergence of Drought, Flood, and Dance” at Evergreen Theatre Friday and Saturday, March 15th-16th, 7 p.m.

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News News Blog

Memphis Pets of the Week (March 14-20)

Each week, the Flyer will feature adoptable dogs and cats from Memphis Animal Services. All photos are credited to Memphis Pets Alive. More pictures can be found on the Memphis Pets Alive Facebook page.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Catching Up with Old Dominick’s Alex Castle

Alex Castle, head distiller at Old Dominick, does not remember the first time she tried whiskey, but she has a very vivid memory of her first encounter with the stuff.

“My parents, for whatever reason, thought it was a really great idea to take my brother and me to Maker’s Mark for a tour,” she recalls, “and why it was surprising to me is neither of them drank bourbon at the time.”

Castle thought the place smelled gross, that her father putting his hand in the mash was gross, and the bourbon-laced fudge she got at the end of the tour was, yes, gross.

Her feelings on bourbon, to say the least, have softened a little.

Old Dominick’s offers Huling Station Bourbon Whiskey, Memphis Toddy, Southern Gin, American Dry Gin, Honeybell Citrus Vodka, and Pure Memphis Vodka.

Castle says Old Dominick’s bourbon whiskey is still a couple years off. She describes Old Huling as a rye whiskey. The Memphis Toddy story is, well, storied.

The forebears of Old Dominick’s founders Chris and Alex Canale used to run a grocery distributorship. At that distributorship they sold flavored whiskey. We’re talking prohibition era here. So Old Dominick’s Chris and Alex had found a sealed bottle of the bourbon. They decided to unseal it and send it off to get the liquid analyzed, so they could figure out how to make it themselves.

Old Dominick product in their most basic form

The modern-day version of the toddy features cinnamon, black pepper, cardamom, lemon peel, orange, clove, and grapefruit. It is, what Castle describes as a flavored bourbon.

Castle oversees all aspects of the production at Old Dominick, from the new oak barrels (made from West Tennessee oaks) used for the whiskey to the bottles for the final product. She gathers the raw materials and makes sure all the equipment is in working order. She is, above all, in charge of quality control.

Castle has an astute palate, which has served her well in this job. She says her favorite whiskeys are those with caramel and toffee notes.

On Castle’s desk is an old cookie jar from her childhood days. It’s shaped like a black and white rooster with a brilliant red comb. It looks familiar … just like the dominecker rooster of the Old Dominick logo.

Her parents, the ones who took her on that gross trip to Maker’s Mark, took it as a sign. Castle did, too.

Old Dominick will be at Whiskey Warmer, which is happening Friday, March 22nd, from 6 to 9 p.m. at Overton Square. Tickets are $39.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Dinner and a Movie at Powerhouse Cinema

When the Powerhouse Cinema opens tonight Downtown, it may just redefine what dinner and a movie means.

The cinema, which once housed steam generators for the train station, is the best and brightest in movie technology — recliner seats that recline all the way back, huge screens for IMAX, reserved seating. But we’re here to talk about the food.

The Powerhouse features a full-scale restaurant with a wood-fire oven for pizzas. The menu ranges from everything from chicken sandwiches to avocado toast.

You can also get milkshakes and booze ’em up at the bar. Scott Tashie of Malco says the menu covers all the bases. They’ve got pretzels made by Dave Scott of Dave’s Bagels and local beers on tap. The cocktail menu includes nods to both Memphis (Mud Island Tea) and to movies (007).

Tashie says they incorporated items from some of the other Malco grills and punched up the restaurant’s menu with new items such as the wood-fired pizzas. The menu includes a hodgepodge of influences and genres — wontons and toasted ravioli, fried shrimp with firecracker sauce, and barbecue nachos. There are also salads and fish and chips. The pizzas are mostly classic — veggie, Hawaiian, pepperoni. Of course, you’ve gotta have a pork-barbecue pizza.

The space is meant to invoke a good atmosphere and good vibes, says Tashie. There are TVs around and a nice patio out front.

Malco partnered with the Memphis Area Transit Authority (MATA), which owned the building, to get the Powerhouse built.

“None of this would be possible without MATA,” say Karen Melton, Malco’s VP and director of marketing.

Along the restaurant’s front, there are the original windows (the glass was replaced). Bricks from the original building were repurposed. Along those eco-friendly lines, a new corn-based straw is being introduced and Malco will serve popcorn in recyclable bags.

Tashie says cinemas such as the Powerhouse are on trend, offering the latest amenities. But Malco wants to stay ahead of the trends.

“We want to be on the cutting edge,” says Tashie, “for Memphis, for Malco.”

With the high-quality sound, the large MXT (IMAX) screens, the pizza and the beer, Malco is aiming for a high-quality experience for its patrons.

One nice perk of the new theater is the in-seat delivery. (Some other Malcos offer this, too.) Patrons order from the concession stand and have their order delivered to their seat. This service ends 10 minutes after the movie starts.

Tashie says of the restaurant, “It’s meant for everyone.” Folks can just stop by for a cocktail or a quick dinner without ever buying a ticket. You can relax and hang out on the patio. But if you’re so inclined to see the Marvel movie, the Powerhouse offers a “true dinner-and-movie experience,” says Tashie. 

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Whiskey Warmer Coming at You!

The Flyer’s Whiskey Warmer will be held Friday, March 22nd at Overton Square, from 6 to 9 p.m.

This whiskey-centric event is ideal for whiskey newbies and connoisseurs alike. With some 40 varieties to sample, guests can hone in on the whiskey that really suits them. Representatives from the brands will be on hand to discuss their products.

Ticket holders get a card for 15 whiskey tastings. Tickets are $39 and must be purchased in advance.

There will be bluegrass music from Graber Grass and food from the Second Line, that white-hot food truck Cousins Maine Lobster, and Laura’s Kitchen.

Some of the brands featured at the event include George Dickel, Crown Royal, Bird Dog, Four Roses, Russell’s Reserve, Louisa’s Liqueur, and Southern Comfort. Memphis’ Old Dominick will be there as well.

Proceeds benefit Volunteer Memphis. 

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Elwood’s Shells and Cousins Maine Lobster

The original iteration of Elwood’s Shells was a food truck parked next to Elwood’s Shack. It lasted about three hours, says Elwood’s Shells general manager Devin Wood. A fire at Elwood’s Shack put the truck permanently on blocks. But the idea for Elwood’s Shells was revived about eight months ago, and Wood, along with Elwood’s Shack owners Tim Bednarski and Mandy Edwards, set about looking for a spot for this Creole seafood restaurant in earnest.

They found it in Cooper-Young, in the old Jasmine space. The chairs and the booth along the south wall were reupholstered in bright fabrics, and a jolly roger flag hung out front. They couldn’t figure out what to do with the giant wok.

“This neighborhood is perfect. It’s who we are,” Wood says.

Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

Elwood’s Shells

In keeping with the Cooper-Young vibe, Elwood’s Shells hopes to introduce a vegan (!) menu and they want to use recyclable packaging and straws. And while they don’t have a liquor or beer license yet, they happily point their customers to nearby City Market for beer and wine or to Hammer & Ale.

Bednarski is from the coast, and the restaurant’s dishes come from family recipes. The pivot from brisket to seafood is in keeping with the Elwood’s brand, Wood says. “The main thing was we wanted to provide a thing that Memphis doesn’t have — on a different level.”

The different level approach is evident throughout the menu, which is overseen by chef Alan Hayden. There’s the Elwood’s Fondue — a bestseller — with shrimp, lobster, crab, mushrooms, and spinach. Elwood’s shrimp and grits is another customer favorite. Wood is fond of the Red Fish Lamar (named after Lamar Sorrento, whose work hangs on the walls), which is topped with crab and lobster and a meuniere sauce and served with an herb mushroom orzo. The po’boys are modeled after Mother’s, the famed restaurant in New Orleans.

Elwood’s Shells also serves breakfast — fluffy cat head biscuits, fried egg sandwiches, migas, and breakfast burritos, among the offerings.

Coming up, in the next couple months, Elwood’s Shells hopes to add a patio out back, add liquor and wine, and introduce a weekend brunch. Seems like plenty is on Elwood’s plate. But looking further ahead, the Elwood’s brand has its sights on Downtown. But first things first. “We’re interested in Downtown,” says Wood. “It will be a little while. There are still things we want to do here.”

Elwood’s Shells, 916 S. Cooper, (552-4967), elwoodsshells.com

Donell Todd is a Shark Tank fan, but when he saw the episode featuring Cousins Maine Lobster, he was skeptical. “I didn’t think it would work,” he recalls. But when he happened upon a truck in Atlanta, he had to try it and left impressed. So much so, that he reached out to the cousins of Cousins, Jim Tselikis and Sabin Lomac, about starting a truck in Memphis.

Todd and his wife Felesha launched the Memphis version of the Cousins Maine Lobster food truck last Saturday.

According to Lomac, they were in business a couple of months when they were urged by the producers of Shark Tank to appear on the show. They did and convinced Barbara Corcoran to back them.

The company has since expanded wildly — now with 30 trucks and eight brick-and-mortar restaurants. Lomac says it was the exposure from the show that helped them realize this sort of success.

The menu for the Memphis truck features two types of lobster roll (Maine and Connecticut), a lobster grilled cheese, lobster tots, clam chowder, and lobster tacos and shrimp tacos.

“The lobster is amazing, just like wow,” Todd says. “I can’t even explain it.”

The truck will be at Wiseacre Thursday, March 7th, from 5 to 8:30 p.m.; Friday, March 8th at Health Sciences Park, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; and Memphis Made Sunday, March 10th from 1 to 6 p.m.