Author: Susan Harrell

Buoyed by the spring weather, we found ourselves daydreaming about tropical beaches and craving seafood. So we ventured downtown to Aristi’s, located on Monroe Avenue in the former site of a Melting Pot restaurant.

Aristi’s is an atmospheric and neighborhoody place. A small, street-front entrance serves as a gateway to a sunken, cozy bar, an elevated dining area, and, if the restaurant is busy, a downstairs dining room. A beautiful wood bar seats about 15 and doubles as the designated smoking area. The walls are painted brick-red, and Caribbean-inspired paintings and ironworks adorn the walls. The upstairs dining room seats 50 comfortably and has a back-wall booth.

On our two visits, the service was excellent. We were seated as soon as we arrived by a very pleasant hostess, then our waitress introduced herself and quickly took our drink order, giving us time to peruse the menu.

To kick things off on our first visit, we ordered the empanadas. The ravioli-sized pastries were made with a cornmeal crust and stuffed with a savory meat and potato filling. These empanadas were baked and came with a spicy fresh salsa of tomatoes, onion, peppers, and a hint of habanero — a fine companion. The appetizer was tasty. So tasty, in fact, we ate them all, with only the empty dish covered with a greasy white napkin as evidence that the empanadas ever existed.

On our second visit, we tried the yuca and “Robert’s BBQ Shrimp” as appetizers. The yuca, or cassava, is a long brown root similar to the potato and is native to South America. Aristi’s version came deep-fried and served with a mojo/mole sauce, typically made with garlic, lard, olive oil, citrus, and onion. The pungent Creole garlic sauce was excellent and definitely great for sharing. The shrimp dish is the namesake of one of the owners and was perfectly grilled, then brushed with a spicy, fruit-enhanced barbecue sauce and served over basmati rice. This was my favorite appetizer.

We also ordered the “Cuban Veggie Salad” — greens topped with grilled eggplant, red and green bell peppers, onion, zucchini, and basil. A Cuban mojo dressing accompanied the salad. The flavors of the salad blended extremely well with the dressing. It’s sizable, though, so I suggest ordering the salad as an entrÇe or sharing it with a friend.

One entrÇe we ordered was the beef chimichurri. The two, four-ounce cuts of beef were cooked well-done when we’d asked for medium-well. But the chimichurri — a ubiquitous condiment for grilled meat in Argentina — was a mÇlange of pureed parsley, oregano, onion, garlic, salt, pepper, vinegar, and olive oil, and it added a nice twist. The sides for the steaks were garlic potatoes and a basic carrot and broccoli, mixed-vegetable dish.

The jerked scallops, unlike the steak, were undercooked and bathed in a floral and overpowering jerk sauce. They were a disappointment. I tried to cut the jerk seasoning with the rice side and vegetable medley, to no avail.

On our second trip, we ordered the red snapper with papaya chutney and the arroz con pollo. Two red snapper filets had been lightly breaded, sautÇed, and then smothered in sweet and spicy papaya chutney. The fish proved deliciously flaky yet firm. When the menu says they drench the fish in the chutney, they mean it. Large chunks of fruit, vinegar, sugar, and spices made for a delicious accompaniment, but a little could have gone a long way. The snapper came with saffron rice and sautÇed mixed vegetables. A fairly good dish overall, but I am not sure it commanded $23. There wasn’t much chicken in the arroz con pollo, but it had a nice, fresh flavor.

Desserts vary nightly. On our first visit,the key lime pie tasted more like cheesecake. The bread pudding, however, was divine — rich slices of warm cinnamon and egg-custard-soaked bread drizzled with a luscious sauce and pecans. Go for it. On our second visit, we had the flan, and it too was delicious. n

Aristi’s, 126-128 Monroe (527-6930), is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and for dinner Monday through Thursday from 4 to 10 p.m.; Friday from 4 to 11 p.m.; and Saturday from 5 to 11 p.m. Lunch prices range from $2 to $9.25 and dinner from $7.25 to $25.

The Half Shell at the corner of Mendenhall and Poplar has created a nice niche as a neighborhood restaurant. On two separate Friday nights, we found the place packed — our fellow patrons clearly at home in the Half Shell’s cozy, casual atmosphere.

The menu is welcoming too, with a variety of seafood, steak, sandwich, and salad choices. It is a good menu for entertaining when you are not sure what your guests will like.

For starters, we had the oysters Rockefeller, which came on a bed of rock salt and was topped with puréed seasoned spinach, bread crumbs, and creamy Parmesan cheese. It arrived bubbling hot, and the plump oysters were prepared perfectly. I liked the oysters Bienville even better. A spoonful of butter, minced onion, mushrooms, and shrimp blended with a Béchamel cream sauce, white wine, lemon juice, a dab of hot sauce, bread crumbs, and finely grated cheese made this dish irresistible. The shrimp and lobster tamales, however, were a little disappointing. The flavor of the masa and ancho chili sauce mixed well with the medium-size shrimp, but we could not locate any lobster meat.

Next up was the seafood gumbo, a rich copper-colored soup with large shrimp and Cajun sausage served with rice. I would definitely order it again. Ditto for the Caesar salad with our choice of blackened yellowfin tuna. Be warned: Both the gumbo and the salad are big enough for a meal.

The Half Shell combo I ordered for an entrée proved a bit frustrating. The spicy blackened catfish came perfectly prepared as did the three fried gulf shrimp, but the crabcakes were overly seasoned and breaded and then deep-fried, causing the meat to lose its texture and true taste. Many chefs broil the crabcakes so the oil from the fryer doesn’t steal the flavors.

Things definitely got better. My dining companion complimented his filet mignon and Alaskan crab legs — the steak cooked as requested and the crab legs succulent and sweet. The “voodoo” catfish and grilled amberjack were winners as well. The spicy catfish came over a fluffy shrimp stuffing with a side of steamed broccoli, and the juicy grilled amberjack came with rice pilaf and spinach sides.

On our second visit, we had the grilled salmon and grilled mahi mahi. The salmon came over three strategically placed fried green tomatoes. (These meals were offered in a lunch- or dinner-size portion, an excellent touch I thought.) The salmon, drizzled with a velvety hollandaise sauce, looked as if it came straight out of a culinary magazine. The succulent mahi mahi also came with fried green tomatoes and was surrounded by a chunky fresh tomato mixture and tiny pieces of green and yellow squash. Heavenly.

For dessert, the Half Shell’s version of the Key lime pie had the perfect tang to it. The other dessert of note was the cräme brñlÇe — a very rich custard topped with a delicate caramelized layer of brown sugar.

I have to say that the Half Shell exceeded my expectations on both visits — nice atmosphere, a friendly staff, and a large variety of tasty cuisine. It’s a good place to kick back and relax after a long week. Go see for yourself.

The Half Shell has two locations — 688 South Mendenhall (682-3966) and 7825 Winchester (737-6755) — and is open Monday through Friday 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Saturday 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m., and Sunday 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m.

All-Natural

Guava offers Cordova a healthy alternative.

Meredith Yates, owner of Guava, the Healthy Gourmet in Cordova, knows a thing or two about healthy living. When she was 3 years old, her mother Anne opened Nature’s Pantry, a health-food store in Knoxville. While other kids’ moms were packing bologna sandwiches in their lunchboxes, Anne was filling Meredith’s with tofu dogs. She was allowed only one natural soda and candy bar per week, and Anne relied on herbal cures to heal her daughter when she was sick.

Those 29 years of healthy living have given Meredith the experience to run the only natural-foods store in the Cordova area. Guava, which opened in November, specializes in products that contain no dyes, no hydrogenated oils, no aspartame, and “nothing artificial.”

“There was recently a shortage of coconut oil, and a company called me and said they had some. So I placed an order,” Yates recalls. “When it came in, the labels were all misspelled and you could tell it wasn’t a quality product. People kept coming in wanting to buy some, but I wouldn’t sell that. I sent it back.”

Guava is located at 1890 Berryhill Rd. #104 (at Chimneyrock), 507-9033. — Bianca Phillips

The Glass Onion is named after a Lennon/McCartney-penned Beatles song from the “White Album.” The restaurant’s philosophy is lifted from this lyric: “Where everything flows. Looking through the bent backed tulips, to see how the other half live.” When we met some friends there a couple of weekends ago, seems that the other half was there, as well as the other, other half. I’m talking standing room only.

The building formerly housed Lilly’s Dim Sum, and the first thing you notice about the Glass Onion is the change in character. The restaurant now has gleaming hardwood floors, an additional dining room, and a bar area. The atmosphere is casual — dim lighting, neon signs — and I would guess it seats about 60. Though we had to wait for a table, we whiled away the time at the bar, which had plenty of available seats.

To start the meal, we tried the coconut-battered shrimp, which was served with a pineapple, jalapeno, green onion, green pepper, and cilantro relish. This sweet, robust relish enhanced the shrimp without overpowering it and gave an island feel to a chilly evening. We also ordered the three-onion pastry, which came in a wonton wrapper rather the standard phyllo dough. I think the wrapper is a better choice because its texture handled the caramelized onions, shallot, and sherry glaze and kept this creation contained in a perfect little package that looked as wonderful as it tasted.

There are three salads on the menu: Caesar, Greek, and Italian. The traditional Caesar — romaine, fresh Parmesan, and homemade buttery croutons — is a sure thing. I also really enjoyed the Greek salad with the crumbled feta cheese, kalamata olives, sliced green peppers, and pecans. I would never have thought to add pecans with feta (goat cheese, sure, but not feta). The crunchy nuts really enhanced this salad. The Italian salad, meanwhile, was a simple bed of greens with prosciutto and anchovies.

For our first entrÇe, we had the tasso-stuffed shrimp. (Tasso is smoked pork that is highly seasoned.) This dish came on a bed of melt-in-your-mouth Gouda cheese grits and six large Gulf shrimp drizzled with a garlic cream sauce that calmed the spiciness of the tasso and enhanced the sweet flavor of the shrimp. Terrific, though it should have been served warmer. Next up: the chicken breast marinated in beef juice. This succulent bird came served over a Thai curry risotto with mint yogurt to cool the curry.

The special this evening was a large filet of halibut with lobster sauce. The mild fish was prepared perfectly — flaky but not overcooked. It came with cheese potatoes topped with crunchy fried noodles. It tasted great. Of course, we couldn’t resist the peanut-butter pork chops. (Curious, we asked the waitress how it was prepared, and she told us that the chops are smothered in peanut butter prior to cooking.) The two large chops were accompanied by a sweet cinnamon-brushed grilled banana and a spicy apple slaw. This dish is a must-try. Its only flaw is the slaw. While I love spicy food, I would suggest the preparers ease up on the pepper. The side was beautiful with fettuccini noodles, cabbage, red peppers, and apples, but I found it too strong and almost inedible.

Desserts are not listed on the menu because they are made from scratch and change frequently. On this night we ordered one of each of the offerings: pecan pie, amaretto cheesecake, Oreo cheesecake, and Snicker pie. All the desserts are worthy of mentioning and tasting. Just be careful to not fill up before you get to them.

The Glass Onion is a nice addition to the Cooper-Young neighborhood. It’s a place that stretches to meet that “other half” with its creative menu and welcoming vibe. Enjoy it. n

The Glass Onion is located at 903 South Cooper Street (274-5151). Reservations are not required. Lunch is served until 5 p.m.; dinner is served from 5 to 10 p.m.; and the after-dinner menu 10 p.m.-2 a.m. Lunch prices range from $5 to $6.50; dinner $6.50 to $17; and appetizers and salads $4 to $8. Separate checks for parties over six are not permitted, and gratuity will be automatically added.

I am a major fan of Garrison Keillor’s Prairie Home Companion show on NPR Saturday nights. One of my favorite skits is “Guy Noir, Private Eye” — “one man still trying to find the answers to life’s persistent questions.” So, of course, I couldn’t resist when I stumbled upon a little hole-in-the-wall with an attitude and definitely not the same old, white-table-cloth-and-fine-dining establishment. Did I mention the restaurant has the same name as Guy Noir’s favorite watering hole?

The 5 Spot is what you might call a mini-restaurant tucked behind Earnestine and Hazel’s, located on the corner of South Main and G.E. Patterson. I know many of you are thinking: behind Earnestine and Hazel’s? Yes, indeed. The kitchen sits in the middle of the room with a couple of tables surrounding it. (During the summer months, there will be additional outdoor seating along the sidewalk on G.E. Patterson.) The lighting is dim, probably a good thing since the room is ancient all the way down to the concrete floors. To say this place is rustic is polite, but it is comfortable and does have character with its unusual display of memorabilia on the walls. And with Earnestine and Hazel’s in the front of the building, the 5 Spot in the center, and a bar for private parties in the back, the restaurant certainly isn’t lacking in its cast of characters.

After we sat down a man took our beverage order. He was friendly and quickly gave us the menu for the evening. He then retreated to the kitchen where he doubled as the chef.

To add to the unpretentious nature of the restaurant, the menu is hand-written on a piece of brown stock paper. The dishes are revolving. I like the idea of having a different experience each time you go. This evening, the menu included one salad and nine entrées — or so we thought. While entrée choices included a beef tenderloin, grilled or blackened grouper, and blackened catfish, many of the dishes included shrimp as a main ingredient. Unfortunately, we were informed they were out of shrimp and pasta, so pickings were slim.

First, we each enjoyed a mixed mesclun green salad with a ginger lemon and sesame vinaigrette — light and refreshing. For his entrée, one of my dining companions chose the beef tenderloin, which was prepared to order and arrived smothered in a bordelaise sauce. The velvety tenderloin and rich bordelaise were exquisite with the Southern-style sides of creamy cheese grits and a mix of black-eyed peas and turnip greens. (The menu said the sides for the evening were sautéed veggies, but these were also not available.) Another treat we had: the grilled grouper. It was a lean, firm, and moist piece of white fish that came in a lemon garlic butter sauce, which was delicious. It too came with a side — black-eyed peas, turnip greens, and cheese grits — though I think the unavailable sautéed vegetables would have made a more agreeable accompaniment.

I ordered the blackened catfish. A large fillet of perfectly seasoned catfish came with the same lemon garlic butter sauce as the grouper and the same side items. Not the best catfish I have ever had. The chef gets credit for trying to be creative, but the butter sauce was a bit acidic and too rich for the catfish.

No desserts were offered that evening, but the server/chef was apologetic. His delivery did not arrive that day.

Overall, the 5 Spot is a great little neighborhood restaurant. It is fun and relaxed — a place to kick back and enjoy a good meal after a hard day’s work. We will positively go back to try some of the dishes we were deprived of, though I’ll probably make like my friend Guy Noir searching for answers and call ahead to check if all the deliveries have arrived.

The 5 Spot, 84 Bishop G.E. Patterson Boulevard (523-9754). Dinner is served Wednesday-Saturday from 5 to 11 p.m. Entrées on our visit ranged from $12 to $20. There is no full bar, but you may bring your own wine. Reservations are not required.

To cap off a great day at the new Stax Museum, a group of us decided to continue the soul theme with dinner at Isaac Hayes Music ™ Food ™ Passion located downtown in Peabody Place. It was Saturday night, but early Saturday night, and we weren’t expecting the $10-per-person cover charge when we came only for dinner. But, going with the flow, we paid and were seated promptly. (Though we had asked for a booth, the only one empty belonged to Mr. Hayes, and not just anyone is worthy of his throne.)

The musicians are center stage so everyone can see them. And if your view is obstructed by someone or something, there are monitors strategically hung from the ceilings so you won’t miss anything the band does. The emphasis on music is continued with the menu, which looks like an album cover and is sorted into “tracks,” such as appetizers, soups and salads, sandwiches and burgers, entrées, steaks, ribs and “hot buttered soul” (entrées that are not barbecue), and desserts. The menu also includes interesting snippets about Hayes’ career.

We started with the Delta catfish fingers, which were served with rémoulade and sweet-and-sour sauces. The crispy fish, coated in cornmeal and fried golden-brown, held up to the thick rÇmoulade, making a tasty snack. We didn’t care for the sweet-and-sour sauce, but the kitchen gets credit for trying to be different. The Rib Ticklers should have been an entreée. A huge platter was piled high with smoked rib tips bathed in a sweet and spicy barbecue sauce. These ribs pulled easily from the bone and melted in your mouth. I would definitely recommend this appetizer, but make sure you and your dining companion are big eaters.

The garden salad was your basic medley of greens, tomatoes, and assorted veggies. Nothing wrong with that. But the Caesar salad’s romaine lettuce came drenched in an overpowering, lemony dressing. Not a bad flavor, just way too much of it.

While we waited for our dinner, we enjoyed an awesome band. The wait took longer than expected, however, and as I looked around the room, it appeared the staff was rather sparse for a Saturday evening and they were busing their own tables. The long wait and the fact that our drink orders arrived after our appetizers and then were not refilled in a timely manner were probably a result of the skimpy staff. I realize needs are difficult to predict on any given night, but a Saturday night with live music should indicate that more staff will be necessary. In addition, the staff should be focused on their customers, and there should be a separate bus staff for a restaurant of this size and caliber.

For dinner, one of my companions chose the 16-ounce rib-eye steak. This steak, ordered rare, had a beautiful red interior and came with onion rings and macaroni and cheese. This mac and cheese was the real deal — large noodles and creamy, velvety cheese sauce with a golden-brown crust. My companion beamed with happiness.

Another companion, however, was not so pleased with the tilapia fillets. According to the menu, the fillets would be basted with Isaac’s Jivin’ Jerk Sauce then charbroiled. What came to the table was soggy and the sauce pungent to the point of sour. The tangy fried green tomatoes that came with the fish, on the other hand, hit the spot.

I chose Isaac’s herb-roasted chicken — half a hen seasoned perfectly with lemon pepper and garlic and slowly oven-roasted. The meat was oh-so tender, the best lemon-pepper chicken I’ve ever had. Other notable entrÇes include the turkey meatloaf and passionate pasta.

We finished our evening with Isaac Hayes’ homemade desserts. The bread pudding came served warm with a bourbon sauce and vanilla ice cream. The combination of cinnamon, raisins, and bourbon sauce mixed with vanilla ice cream is spectacular. The warm and chewy chocolate brownie topped with vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, and whipped cream is a chocoholic’s dream. But my favorite was the warm pecan pie Ö la mode — the largest piece I’ve ever seen. I wished I had skipped dinner and simply ordered it.

All in all, Isaac Hayes’ restaurant and club is a great value: ample portions, good food, and reasonable prices. If they tweak their service slightly, I think they will be a wonderful addition to downtown, although I still have an issue with having to pay a cover charge at 7 p.m. just to have dinner.

Isaac Hayes Music ™ Food ™ Passion is located at 150 Peabody Place (529-9222) on the second floor. Hours: 11 a.m.-1 a.m. seven days a week.

Though naive to the fundamentals of basketball, even I know the talent Shane Battier displays on the court. But would that same level of professionalism be apparent at the restaurant bearing his name?

Shane Battier’s Prime Minister’s steakhouse is first challenged by its location. Seems to be some bad restaurant karma at 135 South Main. Ciao Baby, the Italian Fisherman, and Rialto, among others, are all now memories. And while we fretted about going on a Saturday night without a reservaton, there were not more than five or six tables occupied in a dining room large enough to seat about 100. But the hostess was very pleasant and the place was nice — upscale in tone with white tablecloths, intimate lighting, soft music, and waiters in tuxedos. I thought to myself: This is the perfect way to start an evening.

For beginners, we tried the coriander- encrusted ahi tuna. The center-cut tuna filet had been quickly seared to maintain its medium-rare, rich flavor. A chunky pineapple and ginger fruit salsa spooned over the fish was absolutely beautiful. The Maryland crab cakes came next and were served atop mesclun greens drizzled with a light lemon-cream sauce. These golden-brown crab cakes were packed with pieces of white lump crabmeat, lightly seasoned with bread crumbs, herbs, and small chunks of onion. The cream sauce and the succulent crab melted in your mouth. Not to be outdone — the marinated beefsteak tomatoes with fresh buffalo mozzarella and a basil-pesto vinaigrette surrounded by crisp grilled bread. On a warm summer day, this platter could not be beat.

The traditional house salad is a sampling of mixed baby greens, red cabbage, cucumber, tomatoes, croutons, and your choice of dressing. My recommendation: Try the house vinaigrette, which is packed with herbs. The Caesar salad is not a bad choice, either: large romaine leaves, shaved Parmesan cheese, and big crunchy croutons tossed with a classic Caesar dressing. However, the big score was the New England clam chowder, which was rich and creamy with chunks of clams and potatoes.

The wait between appetizers and our soup and salads was typical for an upscale restaurant. What took place after is not. One of my companions ordered the lobster, and the waiter returned a few minutes later to request that he make another selection since the restaurant was out of lobster. The perplexing thing occurred when the waiter came back 30 minutes later and informed me that they were now out of veal. The menu does offer a variety of choices, so there were other items to tempt us. Unfortunately, our lovely evening went downhill from here.

After a two-hour wait, our entrÇes were served. The menu claimed the blackened scallops and shrimp came tossed in a sherry cream sauce with red onions, bell peppers, and sliced mushrooms served over angel hair pasta. This eye-catching dish, with its array of colors and sweet seafood, fell prey to a dash of cayenne pepper. The pepper overwhelmed the seafood, cut the sherry, and made it too spicy. Don’t get me wrong. I love hot and spicy food but only when the dish is intended to be that way.

The New York strip steak, the 8- and 12-ounce filets all ordered medium-well, appeared burned and had to be sent back. It is difficult to justify keeping an overcooked steak when prices are from $27 to $35. The 12-ounce filet had been ordered accompanied by creamed spinach, but what appeared on the platter were very charred spears of asparagus. At this point, the manager offered to cook our steaks himself; a gracious effort but what returned to the table were rare to medium-rare cuts of meat. One of my companions could not enjoy his steak so rare, so we took it and the overly doused-in-butter garlic-smashed red potatoes to cook at home. The highlight of the entrÇes was the blackened tuna — sushi-grade tuna topped with a roasted red pepper and fruit salsa served over wild rice and grilled asparagus. We devoured this selection, which is sad considering the best entrÇe we ordered at a steakhouse was fish.

After the three-hour ordeal, we attempted to order dessert. We ordered the baked Alaska for two and the fried cheesecake. Again, we waited, to the point we gave up and canceled the desserts. As we were leaving, the fried cheesecake was placed on our table and we all took one bite. The golden-brown and warm cheesecake had been rolled in crumbs and deep-fried. A little late, but I would recommend it highly.

Our experience at Prime Minister’s Steakhouse could have been and should have been much better. After being open for eight months, the kitchen, wait staff, and management should be getting in their groove. All in all, the wait staff and the setting were grand, but the kitchen has got to get its act together. Burning entrÇes, running out of menu staples, excessive waits, and high prices are not going to cut it. To make it among the pros of the Memphis restaurant scene, Shane’s team needs to re-group and get back to the fundamentals of quality cuisine, exceptional service, and timeliness, and then they can defend the prices they are demanding. n

Shane Battier’s Prime Minister’s steakhouse is open for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and from 5 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. Reservations are not required but may be made by calling 432-3675. Appetizers range from $7 to $12, soups and salads from $5 to $7, sides are $3 to $12, and entrÇes $18 to $36.

One of the newest additions to the downtown dining scene, Cayenne Moon sets the mood with its red walls, black wrought-iron balconies, and dim lighting courtesy of one monster of a chandelier. Definitely a scene straight out of King Creole.

To kick things off, we sampled the New Orleans lump crabcakes and the Cayenne shrimp with cool salsa. The crabcakes came packed with large pieces of white crabmeat, white onion, and a side of rémoulade sauce. The onion should have been more finely chopped, plus the crabcakes had been left in the skillet too long and were burned on the bottom. In contrast, the shrimp were blackened to perfection. The peppery seasoning of the large shrimp went well with the sweetness of the mango salsa. Our only regret was that we only had one order.

There are 26 entrées on Cayenne Moon’s menu, and if this isn’t enough, there are also nightly specials. Although we were all tempted by the charbroiled bologna steak, we chose instead the seafood étouffée, shrimp scampi, Caribbean jerk salmon, and, a special of the evening, sea scallops. First up was the scampi, introduced by the aroma of lemon and butter. This dish, with its plump pink shrimp bathed in a garlic-butter sauce tossed over angel-hair pasta, tasted as good as it smelled. Next came the seafood étouffée served over white rice. The étouffée had a light copper roux as a base, and crawfish and shrimp were its featured seafood. Unfortunately, the anticipated rich étouffée flavor didn’t exist, and it needed a lot of hot sauce, salt, and pepper to give it a kick. The menu offered a choice of dinner rolls or cornbread, but on this night cornbread was not available. We got over this disappointment quickly, however, when a plate of warm yeast rolls appeared. Seconds, please.

The filet of salmon seasoned with Caribbean jerk ordered by one of my companions appeared on a bed of grilled pineapple rings and topped with a mango salsa. The allspice combination of cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon with the pineapple enhanced the fish. The flavors mingled fabulously, though the salmon was overcooked. I selected the seafood special for the evening: four bacon-wrapped sea scallops dusted with Cajun seasoning and a baked potato for the side. I thought combining the scallops with a potato and not offering rice a bit strange. The scallops had been prepared at too high a temperature and were dry, overdone, and the bacon burned. The uneventful baked potato came with sour cream and butter. The best part of the meal was the salad. Most of the entrées come with a small dinner salad. Cayenne Moon’s homemade house dressing is a very flavorful herb-packed basil vinaigrette.

We could not give up on Cayenne Moon quite yet, so we ordered hot tea and coffees and pondered the dessert selection. At this point a break was in order. And while the service at Cayenne Moon is very attentive and the atmosphere festive, the bathroom is scary. Truck-stop scary. If Cayenne Moon is going to make the type of investment they have in décor and food and demand the prices they do, then a simple, tasteful, and clean bathroom should not be out of reach.

Back to the desserts. The bread pudding was smothered in a delicious praline caramel sauce and crowned with vanilla ice cream. The dense praline cheesecake was drizzled with melt-in-your-mouth caramel. The beignets were topped with lots of powdered sugar and served with warm honey. The scalloped bananas were prepared a bit differently from the way the menu described. Instead of the bananas rolled in pecans, deep-fried, and served with warm chocolate sauce and ice cream, I got a banana cut into four pieces, rolled in chocolate, then rolled in pecans and served with vanilla ice cream. Don’t get me wrong, I have no complaints. This dessert is pure ecstasy. In retrospect, I should have ordered it first. It is most definitely the crown jewel of the desserts and maybe the entire menu.

Cayenne Moon has some areas that need a little work, but it is definitely a positive addition to downtown. It is open Monday-Friday from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. for lunch and Tuesday-Saturday from 5 to 11 p.m. for dinner. You can visit their Web site at CayenneMoon.com and take a look at their lunch and dinner menus. Appetizers range from $7.95 to $10.95, entrées from $14.95 to $39.95, and desserts from $3.95 to $7.95. Lunches range from $4.95 to $10.95.

Bhan Thai is located about half a block west of the intersection of Peabody and Cleveland, near Crump Stadium. The main entrance to this converted home brings its patrons into a quaint bar area. A hostess greeted us immediately and seated us in the main dining area. The room accommodates about 25 guests. Smaller dining rooms surround the main area and create very intimate gathering spaces. The interior of the restaurant is filled with color, from the bright red and yellow fabric on the chairs to the paintings that adorn the walls. Behind the restaurant is a deck with an outdoor fireplace and a cozy dining area featuring a pianist.

But enough about the ambience. Let’s move on to the food.

For starters, we chose the crab Rangoon and the featured appetizer, green-lipped mussels. The mussels were drizzled in a curry cream sauce and decorated with large slices of white onion and red peppers. This vibrant dish paled only when compared to its taste. The plump mussels had been steamed perfectly, and I was pleased that the mussels’ delicate flavor could be heightened by the sweetness of onions and peppers without the sauce drowning them. Unfortunately, the crab Rangoon did not live up to our expectations. The wontons came minus the crab but with a lot of sweet cream cheese. A sweet-and-sour sauce accompanied the dish but wasn’t needed.

We bypassed the soups and ordered the signature Bhan Thai salad, which was generous and plenty for two. A pile of fresh mixed greens topped with sliced boiled eggs, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, bell peppers, and fried tofu came drizzled with a creamy peanut dressing. Crispy fried noodles capped this salad and gave it a saltiness and definite crunch.

While we zeroed in on appetizers and the salad with ease, choosing our entrées proved more difficult. So many options — diners can have chicken, beef, pork, shrimp, or tofu added to each entrée, curry, noodle, or fried-rice dish, excepting the house specials.

Our first selection was the cashew nuts with beef: cashews with chopped red peppers, broccoli, onions, carrots, and thinly sliced, tender steak served with a spicy chili sauce. This dish had great curb appeal, and the sauce gave a nice burst of flavor to the vegetables. The “Eight Angels,” a house specialty, was not so special. The menu description — “sautéed shrimp, chicken, pork, and beef with asparagus, carrots, shitake mushrooms and baby corn in a delightful mild brown sauce” — sounded wonderful. I believe the sauce contained a fish or oyster sauce. Either way, it was just too bland. This dish had everything going for it, from presentation to ingredients. It just fell short in its delivery.

For my entrée, I ordered the sliced boneless roasted duck in a spicy red-curry cream sauce. The anticipation almost got the best of me. The sauce cradled not only the most tender duck I have had in a long time but also chunks of fresh pineapple, green and purple grapes, tomatoes, bell peppers, and basil. I admit to being disappointed that the dish came on a plate rather than in the pineapple shell described on the menu, but don’t get me wrong: I cannot complain about this entrée.

Finally, we had the “Three Companions,” another large-portion pleaser with its three good-sized lambchops smothered in chopped red and green bell peppers and onions, Bhan Thai’s signature spicy basil sauce, and freshly chopped sweet basil used as a garnish. The lamb was prepared perfectly, tender with a slightly pink center. The only recommendation I can make is for the chef to select a leaner cut of meat. As with all of the dishes, the jasmine rice was a flavorful addition to this house specialty.

As if we had not had enough, we inquired about dessert. Our waiter explained that Thai cuisine is not big on desserts, and the only item on the menu that evening was a chilled mango. We declined, and, stuffed though we were, we left Bhan Thai hoping for more.

Bhan Thai is located at 1324 Peabody. Lunch: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday. Dinner: 5 to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday and 5 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Currently, Bhan Thai offers wine and beer. Reservations are not accepted. Take-outs are welcome. 272-1538.

I had heard many things about Paulette’s sister, Three Oaks Grill, but I needed to come to my own conclusions. So on a Saturday night about 7, my friends and I arrived at Three Oaks Grill in Germantown, across the street from the Germantown Commissary. We were escorted through the first dining room and into a larger dining room in the rear of the restaurant. The two rooms have distinct atmospheres. The warm and earthy ambience in the first room is set by its wood paneling. The second, larger room seats about 80 and is airier due to its surrounding glass doors. Cozy booths, exposed wood beams, hardwood floors, and a stucco fireplace would make this a great space for functions.

We kicked things off with the crab cakes. This crab was treated with respect: It was not overpowered by the breading nor was it mixed to the point of being unidentifiable. The warm rémoulade sauce served with the cakes was a perfect match. We then tried the roasted red pepper. This appetizer was proof that simplicity in cooking can create the most rewarding dishes — a bright-red pepper, seeded, roasted, and filled with mozzarella and herbs then sprinkled with goat cheese. The purity of the flavors needed little dressing, and the crostini made delectable companions.

For soup, we chose the corn-and-bacon chowder. The lightly creamed chicken broth of the chowder cradled cubed potatoes, sweet corn, and smoked bacon. Though my companions enjoyed the soup, I couldn’t help but think it was a mis-order for a warm August evening.

More refreshing were the salads. The Caesar was true to form — crisp romaine lettuce in a creamy dressing with crusty croutons and shaved Parmesan cheese. The Bel-Air salad, a mix of dried cherries, Mandarin oranges, walnuts, and balls of walnut-encrusted goat cheese over fresh greens tossed in orange vinaigrette, was a bit lackluster. Perhaps toasting the walnuts would help. The warm apple-and-pear salad was a winner. Freshly cooked, warm pieces of apple and pear clung to mixed greens that were drizzled with walnut vinaigrette and crumbled Gorgonzola cheese. The fruit, cheese, and hint of walnut in the dressing exploded on the palate. My companion was sincerely surprised at how good this salad was.

Now, at this point, you may be wondering about the garden salad. Well, so were we. Our waiter, with apparently too many tables to cover, had forgotten to put the order in. He apologized and offered to get one immediately, but we declined, since we were hopeful our entrées would arrive soon. We were wrong, and now seems the perfect time to warn would-be patrons. While you may make a reservation for dinner at Three Oaks Grill — and I suggest you do — plan on about three hours for dinner for a party of four. The restaurant was not full or overwhelmingly busy for a Saturday night, and the staff was extremely polite and apologetic, but

Enough lecturing — let’s move on to the entrées.

The menu at Three Oaks resembles Paulette’s, though the entrées are a more diversified selection of seafood, poultry, beef, and pork dishes. We picked the New Zealand rack of lamb — rib chops oven-roasted and topped with a Pinot Noir sauce. New Zealand lamb is of the highest quality because no hormones or steroids are given to the animals. The meat was so tender, no knife was needed, and the richness of the Pinot Noir grape gave the dish its burgundy color and balance. Our next dish, the halibut with crabmeat, was a large, moist, flaky fillet stuffed to bursting with rich crabmeat topped with a fresh tarragon cream sauce, and served with baby carrots.

Veal is one of my favorite meats, and Three Oaks’ veal tenderloin with apple-y brandy sauce was too enticing to pass up. I was not disappointed. Thick slices of grilled tenderloin mingled in an almost golden brandy cream sauce. The sweetness of the sauce was enhanced with diced shallots and tempered with the earthiness of sliced mushrooms. This veal was so very tender and came with two crisply fried potato leek cakes.

The filet Paulette, however, was disappointing. The menu called for a Black Angus filet mignon lightly coated with cracked black pepper. What my companion received was an extremely small, overcooked filet that could hardly be sliced with a knife. The filet sat dwarfed in the middle of a large white plate in a sauce of butter, cream with tomatoes, onion, and bell peppers. The accompanying garlic whipped potatoes were the best thing about this dish.

Since the portions at Three Oaks Grill were reasonable, we were left with room for dessert. The Key lime pie had a buttery graham-cracker crust, a tangy Key lime filling, and a sweet dollop of fresh whipped cream. The bread pudding was warm and rich with plump raisins and cinnamon. It was delicious with the café au lait we ordered. Grand Marnier, unfortunately, overpowered the beautiful strawberry crepe with fresh whipped cream.

Three Oaks Grill (757-8225 ) is located at 2285 South Germantown Road,and is open Sunday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. for lunch and 5 to 9 p.m. for dinner, and Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 p.m. for dinner. Appetizers range from $6.95 to $10.95, soups and salads from $3.50 to $6.95, and entrées from $16.95 to $26.95. Full bar and an extensive wine list are also available.

The menu at downtown’s Amber Palace delivers many options to the Indian-food enthusiast. It’s sorted by appetizers, soups, tandoori, complete dinners, vegetables, seafood dishes, entrées, chef’s specialties, breads, biryanis, extras (chutney and pickles), desserts, and beverages. If there is not a dish on this menu to tempt you, you really shouldn’t be in an Indian restaurant.

We kicked things off with the aloo tikki — “kick” being the operative word here. While the menu said these potato-and-peas-filled deep-fried fritters were mildly spiced, the cayenne will clear your sinuses. (Consider this a warning: While you’re asked to specify mild, medium, or spicy for your entrées, even the mild has some oomph.) The vegetable pakoras were fritters with cauliflower, eggplant, and onions. These fritters were very good — lightly spiced with a nutty flavor, deep-fried, and served with chutney. The murg pakoras should have been called boneless chicken strips with a little cumin in the batter. They were tasty but ordinary, uneventful.

For our first entrée, we had the murg tandoori, a chicken breast and thigh marinated in yogurt, lemon, a little garlic, ginger, chili, garam masala, and a little food coloring to make the chicken a vibrant red. The chicken came hot in a black skillet with slivered white onions and lime wedges. My dining companion considered it a little dry (it was just the way I like it) but found the flavors to be quite appealing. Next up: the chana palak, fresh spinach cooked curry-style with garbanzo beans, herbs, and served with white basmati rice speckled with black caraway seeds. The spinach had a creamy consistency, and its layers of flavors made it the perfect mate for the garlic naan. Naan is flat leavened bread traditionally slapped onto the walls of a tandoor oven to bake while the meat is cooking. Our naan had been seasoned with a touch of garlic that, with the richness of the spinach, made a very filling and welcome addition to our meal.

The mixed tandoori was murg tandoori, murg tikka (tandoori-roasted boneless chicken), sheesh kabob with lamb, shahi lamb kabab (marinated lamb skewered over hot charcoal), and shrimp. The sheesh kabab’s lamb had been ground and had a curry flavor. The shrimp was like rubber, but the lamb had the tenderness of a piece of filet mignon — no knife needed. The best entrée we ordered had to be the lamb biryanis with raita. Biryanis are made up of basmati rice and meat and/or a vegetable in a curry sauce with raisins and nuts. The lamb biryanis came mounded on a large plate and served with a side of raita (a creamy mixture of yogurt with a hint of sweet-tart apples and the nutty flavor of roasted cumin seed). Its bright red color and sweet spicy flavor (both traits from the curry, paprika, and turmeric) mixed with tender, moist lamb that melted in your mouth. As I enjoyed the mingling of the flavors, I bit into a plump golden raisin. The sweetness of the raisin and yogurt mixture tempered the curry and gave the dish richness and depth. I looked for the nuts the menu mentioned would be in the dish but never found any. They really weren’t missed. The biryanis was delicious without them.

By this point, we were stuffed and had enough left over to feed all of us for days — trust me, the Amber Palace is generous with its portions. And yet we ordered dessert anyway. We chose to share the kulfi, an Indian-style ice cream, which had the consistency of ice cream blended with gelatin. The kulfi was extremely sweet, though the saltiness of pistachios and almonds helped even out the flavor. I enjoyed it and I am glad we ordered it, but it was a bit sweet for me.

As my companions and I relaxed after this delightful meal, we reflected on our experience and checked out the décor. The restaurant is painted bright royal-blue and gold. The black metal chairs and white cloth-covered tables seat about 100 patrons comfortably and give the restaurant a very modern feel. Amber Palace has strategically placed televisions in the front and back of the restaurant showing Indian music videos. I am not really a fan of any television being in a restaurant (unless it is a sports bar/restaurant) and definitely found them distracting. The wait staff is knowledgeable, helpful, and attentive without being obtrusive.

Amber Palace is located at 97 South Second Street (578-9800) across from The Peabody. Lunch hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Dinner hours: 5 to10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Appetizers and soups range from $1 to $5.95, entrées $7.95 to $12.95, and desserts $2.50 to $2.95.