Author: Susan Harrell

Pardon me if I sound like a cheesy advertisement, but, wow, has downtown changed — the bright lights, the new buildings, the entrepreneurial spirit, and especially the new restaurants. One of the newest is Felicia Suzanne’s, located in the Brinkley Plaza building. Owner/chef Felicia Willett (Suzanne is her mother) previously worked with super-celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse, producing his cooking show and assisting with his books Every Day’s a Party and Emeril’s TV Dinners.

Felicia Suzanne’s makes an awesome first impression. The 20-foot ceiling is smooth and lavender but interrupted by jagged flashes of the ceiling’s original plaster. The walls are decorated with square cushions in various earth tones, patterns, and textures and do double-duty by controlling noise and maintaining intimacy. A large, cherry-wood bar divides the bar area from the main dining room — a cozy setting with tables draped in white linen and punctuated by red velvet chairs and booths.

Though we had reservations, our table was not quite ready when we arrived, so we took the opportunity to sit in the bar and enjoy the ambiance. It was a short wait, and soon we were looking over the menu, a thoughtful bow to French cuisine with a Cajun/Southern twist.

For starters, we had the crispy oysters tossed in a flavorful New Orleans barbecue sauce and served over creamy grits. The duck terrine, prepared with shallots and thyme, was served chilled with a dried-cherry compote and whole-grain mustard with cornichons (tart pickles).

The Kentucky Limestone Bibb salad, with extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and shaved Parmesan, was simple and straightforward. The baby spinach salad, by comparison, was a heap of greens tossed in a Maytag-blue-cheese vinaigrette and adorned with delectable morsels of apple-smoked bacon, crispy red onions, spiced pecans, and homemade cheese straws. Next, the crab salad — chunks of sweet white crabmeat mixed in Creole mustard sandwiched between two crispy and tart fried green tomatoes, which were topped with mixed greens and Creole mustard vinaigrette.

(The crab salad was such a delight we thought about ordering more, but the decision was made for us due to our missing waiter. This neglect turned out to be an unfortunate theme of the evening, though we appreciated Willett visiting each table.)

For entrées, we had a perfectly prepared filet of salmon served over creamy grits and crowned with freshly steamed asparagus and oven-roasted tomatoes with a light Creole mustard sauce. This dish made one of my dining companions very quiet and very happy. The filet of beef tenderloin was prepared to order and presented with haricot verts, roasted potatoes, apple-smoked bacon, and red-wine-braised shallots and finished with a dollop of Maytag-blue-cheese butter. A knockout.

The succulent herb-crusted Colorado rack of lamb, drizzled with a Dijon mustard reduction, was so tender no knife was needed. A buttery French gratin of potatoes layered with goat cheese finished the entrée superbly. The final selection of the evening was the roasted halibut with a sauté of wild mushrooms, fresh asparagus, and Mediterranean fava beans with Louisiana crawfish tails served over a parsnip purée with a lemon butter sauce. (Whew!) This dish demonstrated Chef Willett’s creativity and her loyalty to Cajun and other regional influences. The beautiful red crawfish, the earthy textures and flavors of the mushrooms, the white of the fish, and the aroma and coloring of the lemon-butter made this dish pleasing to all the senses.

For dessert, we ordered the bread pudding. This simple dessert had been enhanced by fresh coconut and white-chocolate sauce. There was a lot of it, and we were glad. The caramel cheesecake topped with warm caramel and pralines was as smooth as butter, rich, and decadent — the perfect match for a strong cup of coffee. And no chocolate lover could resist the warm brownie topped with ice cream.

Felicia Suzanne’s, located at 80 Monroe in Brinkley Plaza (523-0877), is open Tuesday-Thursday 6-10 p.m. and Friday-Saturday 6-10:30 p.m. Reservations are requested, and jackets are preferred for men in the dining room. Appetizers and salads: $6-$10; entrées: $22-$30. A full bar is available.

It was a leisurely Saturday afternoon, a day so perfect that grilling

was mandatory. But fresh out of charcoal, we trucked on out to

Bartlett to the Side Porch Steak House, a small family-owned restaurant open for

26 years. If you haven’t been there before, you’ll probably drive right past it. But

if you do, make sure to turn around.

As you approach the restaurant you notice

the simplicity of the little white building with

blue-and-white-checkered curtains and an announcement of a

family member’s wedding taped to the front door. There is an ease to the place, which

reminds guests that this is a family

establishment. The dining rooms are casually

decorated. Wood cupboards with arts and crafts

line the walls, plants are scattered about, and the tables are draped with plastic

tablecloths and finished with fresh flowers.

We were seated quickly, and our waitress promptly brought us our drink order.

Our tea and water came in large mason jars, which fit right with the décor. A basket of

complimentary warm croutons heavily brushed with butter came with the beverages.

For starters, we selected the fried dill pickles. The pickle wedges were

quarters of whole cucumbers cut lengthwise, breaded, lightly fried, and served with

a side of ranch dressing. These were some of the best fried pickles

I’ve had not greasy, not mushy, a little spicy, and

served warm. We were not, however, as impressed with the fried mushrooms. The

mushrooms tasted like they had been frozen and cooked too quickly. Although they

looked wonderful, they squirted very hot residual water that had not cooked out. As for

the lightly seasoned, grilled shrimp, the menu claimed the appetizer was spicy, but it

didn’t have the kick I expected.

All entrées included a simple but

fresh dinner salad and a basket of dinner rolls to go with the menu’s usual steak choices

filet mignon, New York strip, rib-eye, T-bone plus fish, pork, and seafood

dishes. Choices with entrées included a

baked Idaho potato with all the condiments, a baked sweet potato served with

cinnamon sugar, or french fries.

For our main course, we started with a generous serving of grilled

tilapia bathed in butter. (Tilapia is a popular freshwater fish found in Asian

cuisine. The muddy taste once associated with this fish is no

longer present in the farm-raised variety.) This entrée melted in

the mouth. Not to be outdone were the pork chops two

half-inch, center-cut, grilled-to-perfection chops that were juicy and

packed with flavor. Pork can easily be overcooked,

but these were succulent and coupled with a baked potato with the trimmings.

The 14-ounce rib-eye steak served as medium-well was a grave

disappointment to my dining companion. Typically,

the biggest concern with this most prized cut of meat is how it’s cooked. The steak

we were served at Side Porch was charred on the outside, while portions of the

inside remained slightly too rare for my friend’s taste. Moreover, this steak consisted

of more fat than beef. (I would encourage the chef to be

more cautious of the steaks served at the high end of their price

range.) Not to be discouraged, my companion happily finished my order of surf and

turf. The half-inch filet cut from the small end of the tenderloin was extremely tender

and the perfect match for my grilled shrimp, which were brushed with a mixture of

butter, lemon, and parsley.

The menu instructed us to inquire about the desserts, but we got the

check before we had a chance. We piped up anyway, and it turned out to be my favorite

part of the meal. The pecan pie came warm and served with vanilla ice cream. The warm

corn syrup, sugar, vanilla, butter, and pecans

mixed with the ice cream was delicious. But the French silk pie wasn’t the chocolate

creamy decadence my mother makes. I’m not saying it wasn’t tasty, but if you ever tried my

mother’s pie, you’d see why I am so spoiled.

The Side Porch Steak House is located at 5689 Stage Rd. (757-2484).

Hours: Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5

to 10 p.m.; closed Monday. Appetizers range from $3.95 to $5.95, salads $2.95

to $8.95, and entrées $9.95-$17.95. No reservations required.

If you are looking for that perfect place for a late-night cup of coffee and dessert or a little wine, a casual supper, and sultry, live jazz, then Zanzibar in the South Main Arts District fits the bill.

Zanzibar’s atmosphere is electric with its multicolored walls, funky painted bar, and art gallery. The restaurant seats about 50 comfortably. Street parking is ample, and the trolley stops right in front.

The dinner menu is sorted into three categories: “one” for appetizers, “two” for salads and soups, and “three” for entrées. And there is always a daily special.

In category “one,” we sampled all the appetizers offered. The salsa Diablo was a dark, pebbly mashed avocado blended with garlic and chopped tomato and served with crisp corn tortilla chips. The nutty Hass avocados ensure a coarse, thick texture that clings to the chips and a flavor that will leave you wanting more. The Pacific prawn ceviche, served with avocados and capers, includes prawns cooked by the acidity of lime juice. Our favorite “one,” without a doubt, was the glazed beef, chicken, and pork skewers covered in a sweet chile/garlic glaze. Vinegared cucumbers sweetened with a little sugar made for the perfect complement. (Just a note: The menu stated that the skewers would be served with rice noodles, but the sticky rice worked just as well and the noodles were not missed.)

Of category “two” we sampled the romaine and radicchio with baby greens, which came dressed with Maytag blue cheese, thinly sliced Granny Smith apples, and white balsamic vinegar. The Zanzibar Caesar was basically a simple half-head of romaine lettuce with Zanzibar’s own thick, garlicky Caesar dressing and large shrimp. Very satisfying. But the Caesar paled in comparison to the peanut soup. Served in a brightly colored coffee mug, the thick, amber soup had chunks of potato, chicken, carrot, red pepper, and Northern beans floating in a rich, aromatic peanutty chowder. It smelled wonderful, it tasted better, and the flavor seemed to get richer as I got closer to the bottom of the cup.

Category “three” was where the choices became tough. Zanzibar offers a tempting variety of entrees, from roast Peking duck to vegetarian Red Rose potato and tofu curry. We chose the grilled chicken fettuccini. The chunks of grilled chicken atop traditional noodles, prepared al dente and tossed in a creamy rich white (you can opt for red) sauce with the perfect hint of garlic, were worthy of a fine Italian restaurant. The New Zealand rack of lamb was prepared in a “French” manner, meaning the meat had been cut away from the end of the rib so that part of the bone was exposed. The pieces of tender lamb had been delicately bathed in a honey, rosemary, and balsamic-vinegar glaze and carefully placed over delectable mashed potatoes mixed with garlic and basil. The herbs, vinegar, and honey demonstrated the kitchen’s knowledge of the importance of blending flavors.

The roasted-pork empanadas, unfortunately, were not empanadas at all. I expected a traditional Spanish treat of pastry crust filled with savory meat. Zanzibar’s version of an empanada is more closely related to a tostada, a crisp tortilla with shredded pork and served with refried pinto beans garnished with guacamole, salsa, and Mexican cabbage slaw. And by the time they were served, the empanadas had gotten cold and were bland and chewy.

Our favorite selection, however, was the Jamaican rib-eye strips — extremely tender strips of seasoned steak grilled to perfection with caramelized red onions, accompanied by garlic/basil mashed potatoes, and finished with freshly prepared asparagus, zucchini, and squash.

And so it went: “One.” “Two.” “Three.” I had had it. Then I spotted “Four” — Zanzibar’s glass cabinet filled with every cheesecake one could think of and a few other sweets too powerful to pass up. My favorite was the caramel praline cheesecake, a decadent, creamy, rich cheesecake drizzled with caramel and sprinkled with candied pecans. Oh, the calories! One of my companions ordered the key lime cheesecake. Unfortunately, it had a gummy consistency and lacked a tastable luster. The caramel turtle cheesecake was a success. The creamy vanilla cheesecake layered with caramel, chocolate, and pecans was a party for the palate.

Zanzibar is located at 412 South Main Street, 543-9646. Hours: Tuesday-Wednesday 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., Thursday-Friday 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday brunch 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Live jazz Thursday-Friday. Appetizers and salads range from $5.95 to $8.95, entrées $6 to $22. Zanzibar offers an extensive coffee selection and dessert menu. Wine and beer are also available.

At Christopher’s, located on Brookhaven Circle in East Memphis, two cement lions guard the entrance. A small host area leads to two dining rooms and a small bar area, which, combined, seat about 100 comfortably. I had called early on a Saturday to make reservations, but the dining rooms were already booked. A little surprised but with my interest piqued, I agreed to dine in the bar.

When we arrived, we were warmly greeted and immediately guided to our table. The hardwood floors, the hardwood bar, the fireplace, and the candles created a warm and glowing atmosphere. Unfortunately, we were seated at an awkward table too close to the end of the bar. Perhaps fewer or smaller tables would be more practical for such a cozy space.

To start, my companions and I selected the sea scallops in Rockefeller sauce — three large scallops and a slice of grilled herb polenta topped with fresh spinach leaves. The creamy sauce was infused with the flavors of butter and Pernod. Delicious. Not to be outdone was the savory, dried-tomato cheesecake. I have made a sun-dried-tomato cheesecake or two in my day, but I have never thought to oven-dry or purée my tomatoes prior to mixing with the cream cheese. The puréed tomatoes made the cheesecake reddish pink and absolutely lovely in contrast with the white serving plate. The pepper-seared tuna carpaccio, with pickled-ginger slaw and a drizzle of wasabi, was packed with flavor.

For the salad course, I had my heart set on the Bibb lettuce salad with chilled Maine lobster. Unfortunately, they were out of lobster and the substituted shrimp did not tempt me. So we went for the mixed green salad with crumbled feta and diced tomatoes, olives, and cucumber pico tossed in a traditional herb vinaigrette. The spinach and arugula salad with port-poached apples, roasted walnuts, and Roquefort dressing was tasty but seemed to be missing the arugula.

Christopher’s specialty soup that evening was lamb and Black Angus steak stew — a hearty broth that also contained carrots, potatoes, and a bit of cayenne. This slightly spicy soup matched the roaring fire and reminded me of my days living in the Northeast. Enough reminiscing: If they offer the soup when you’re here, get it.

The entrée selection had hints of Caribbean, Southern, and Asian influences. I chose the Chateaubriand of veal with wild mushrooms and Cognac cream. I rarely prepare veal and rarely resist ordering it. Christopher’s Chateaubriand featured medallions of velvety veal thinly sliced and slightly grilled with a melt-in-your-mouth sauce (a reduction of white wine, shallots, herbs, mushrooms, and butter). The veal was complemented with garlic mashed potatoes and steamed asparagus.

The chef’s featured entrée was trout. The large serving of fish covered the plate, was perfectly prepared, and was almost too beautiful to destroy: The succulent trout was placed on a mound of yellow couscous and crowned with a relish of orange cantaloupe, cucumber, and honeydew melon. The subtlety of the fish with the fruit danced on the taste buds. And while my companion claimed he was full after his stew and appetizers, he almost finished this large portion.

(At this point I would like to thank the wait staff at Christopher’s. They were very attentive without being obtrusive. They made our experience delightful.)

For dessert, we tried the Grand Marnier-scented crème brûlée, which came in a small teacup and made the perfect mate for coffee — not too much but a smooth and creamy treat with a caramelized crust. The “Chocolate Decadence,” a flourless chocolate cake, was very rich and very fudgey and absolutely delicious.

I was just thinking about how good our meal had been when our waitress appeared with the walnut French toast. The richness of the bread with chunks of walnut prepared as French toast and smothered with caramelized bananas and ginger ice cream made this grateful diner realize she needed nothing more to make an evening perfect.

Christopher’s is located at 712 West Brookhaven Circle, 682-5202. Appetizers range from $9 to $10, soups and salads $6 to $12, entrées $20 to $28, and desserts $5 to $8. Full bar and wine list are available.

For real estate agents, it’s location. For me, a dining critic, it’s all about timing from the wait to be seated to the lapse between ordering and eating to the countdown for the check. Recently, my companions and I went to Puccini and Pasta, Peabody Place’s newest restaurant, a stylish establishment with a sleek interior, great music, and tasty cuisine with one drawback faulty timing.

Puccini and Pasta seats 240 patrons comfortably, which, on the night we dined there, included several members of the U of M Tigers basketball team. The modern interior with its subtle lighting, wine rack, high-back booths, and cozy tables radiates style and romance. A scurrying wait staff decked out in black and white outfits added a touch of class, and sultry jazz music played faintly in the background.

For starters, we tried the carpaccio, a thinly sliced, cured beef filet served with a mixture of mustard sauce, olive oil, and lemon juice in a bed of baby greens, sliced Parmesan cheese, and tomato. The cozze mare were tender, sweet, fresh mussels steamed in white wine, Pernod (anise-flavored liqueur), olive oil, lemon, basil, and a hint of garlic. The menu warned that the dish might be served with tomato sauce instead of basil, and I was thrilled that it was not. The only unappetizing thing about our appetizers: They arrived before our beverages, and we had to request our drinks a second time after waiting about 20 minutes.

Soup and salad selections are limited. We ordered the minestrone and the pasta fagioli. Both soups had a hearty stock as their base. The minestrone combined chickpeas, Parmesan, spinach, kidney beans, sausage, vegetables, and noodles, while the pasta fagioli married great Northern beans, tomatoes, spinach, pasta, and celery. I was surprised by the minestrone its broth and vegetables could have made a meal alone.

After a lengthy wait, and while our server was apologizing for the delay in our salads, our entrées arrived. The entrées were then taken back to the kitchen, and, with visions of our dishes sitting under a warming lamp, we rushed through our salads. Again, it’s all about timing.

As for those salads, the mixed greens included radicchio and baby greens topped with mushrooms, red onions, roasted and peeled peppers, and feta cheese drizzled with a vinaigrette and surrounded by tender, peppery endive leaves. The Caesar salad’s romaine lettuce, croutons, and Parmesan mixture wilted in a bath of dressing made from eggs, olive oil, garlic, and anchovies.

Among our entrées, we tried the sirloin steak, an ample New York strip grilled to perfection and served with diced tomatoes in an extra-virgin olive oil, lemon juice, and balsamic vinegar. The side portion of ziti in a marinara sauce complemented the heartiness of the steak. The veal Milanese proved to be nothing more than a salad atop a piece of veal that had been flattened, breaded, pan-fried, and buried under mixed baby greens, radicchio, fresh tomatoes, and an olive oil-based vinaigrette. The menu indicated that the veal came with the pasta of the day, but it never arrived. We asked our waiter about the pasta and he said the menu was incorrect.

The “Spiedino,” definitely my favorite selection of the evening, consisted of large shrimp and sea scallops rolled in Italian bread crumbs, skewered, grilled, and placed on a mound of creamy fettuccini Alfredo and finished with a lemon butter sauce and fresh parsley. Bravo! The Chicken Marsala a flattened chicken breast sautéed with mushrooms, topped with Marsala wine sauce, and coupled with Puccini’s house pasta for the evening was not as successful. The ziti with a tomato-based sauce did not complement the Marsala wine, and the chicken seemed meant for something not quite as heavy, perhaps an angel hair pasta in a light olive oil.

For dessert, we had the cream puffs, three éclair-like puffs filled with a vanilla cream and smothered in chocolate mousse and whipping cream then finished with fresh strawberries. The cream puffs, although tasty, didn’t spark the usual chocolate nerve in me. The lemon chess pie, served in a flaky crust, was not too sweet or too tart and came with with just the right-sized dollop of fresh whipped cream. The tiramisu was a happy union of sponge cakes soaked in liqueur, custard cream, and a healthy dusting of chocolate atop drizzled chocolate.

Reservations are not required at Puccini and Pasta, but I would suggest them, especially on the weekends. Call 528-9555. Hours are 11 a.m. until 11 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. until midnight Friday and Saturday, and 11 a.m. until 10 p.m. Sunday. Lunch ranges from $6.95 to about $10. Appetizers, soups, and salads range from $4.50 to $8.95, entrées $8.95 to $18.95.

If you’re the sensitive type, beware the dancing man. And if you see two dancing men on the menu at Sawaddii, things are really going to get hot.

Sawaddii, located in the 100 block of Union Avenue, serves the complex cuisine of Thailand in an eclectic environment. The bar in front sets the stage for a vibrant and deep, terra-cotta-colored dining room. The hardwood tables and fresh flowers give the small room a simple, clean, and warm feeling.

The menu is sorted by appetizers, salads and soups, curries, entrées, noodles and rices, and house specialties. The key in the corner of the menu signifies the heat or spiciness of the dishes. One dancing man means the dish is spicy; two dancing men means that you may be the one dancing after you eat it.

Our group started with the Crab Rangoon, four golden-brown fried wontons stuffed with delicate white crabmeat and accompanied by a tart sweet-and-sour sauce. The spring rolls were stuffed rice paper with fresh vegetables, tofu, and egg and crowned with a tangy honey-mustard sauce. The stuffing gave the rolls substance, and the sauce wasn’t shabby either. My favorite appetizer, though, was the beef satay — skewers of thinly sliced beef marinated in Sawaddii’s signature blend of curry powder, grilled to perfection, and coupled with a peanut sauce so rich it could have put me in a trance.

We then sampled a couple of soups. The vegetable and tofu soup was flavorless, but making up for the disappointment was the Tum Yum — a traditional hot-and-sour soup jazzed up with mushrooms, fresh basil, lemon grass, tomato wedges, medium-size shrimp, and baby scallops.

Our first entrée was the sweet-and-sour vegetables, a mixture of zucchini, celery, cabbage, tomatoes, onions, bell peppers, and pineapple chunks in a sweet-and-sour sauce. It was the perfect selection for the vegetarian at our table. The sauce enhanced the vegetables rather than overwhelming them, a common drawback to sweet-and-sour dishes. The Nam Tok Beef was spicy and tasty — tender filets of beef flavored with lime, red chilis, peppers, red onions, scallions, and crushed roasted rice — though it may have too much citrus for some palates.

What can I say about the Sam Rod? What a masterpiece! One half of a crispy, fried boneless duck topped with the most succulent sweet-and-sour sauce and displayed with basil rice. A visually tempting and mouth-watering dish. Rounding out our entrées was the chef’s specialty of the evening, the Sawaddii Seafood — a firm yet not overly done combination of mussels, oysters, shrimp, salmon, and scallops blended with scallions and garlic on a bed of cabbage, which demonstrated the creativity and pure decadence of the chef. I like that in a chef. Bravo!

For a sweet ending to our evening, we could not resist the custard with sticky rice, a substantial dessert. Not to be outdone, the fried vanilla ice cream with a hint of cinnamon was wonderful, and the fried bananas were enthusiastically shared at our table.

Open for lunch Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Mon.-Thurs. 5-9:30 p.m.; Fri. & Sat. 5-10:30 p.m.

Harry’s New Detour; a super Super Bowl

Patrons of Harry’s Detour on Cooper will soon have the option of dining at their favorite restaurant at another location. Harry Nicholas’ new restaurant, Harry’s Detour South Main, will open its doors on April 1st. The new Detour at 106 East G.E. Patterson is tucked in just behind Carnevale on South Main. The new location will also feature a courtyard for al fresco dining. Both locations will have the same dinner menu, but emphasis will be placed on the lunch menu at the new Detour because of expected heavier lunch traffic.

Super Bowl Sunday would have been a good time to be in Bubba’s Ale House and Grille on Highway 64. During the game Budweiser selected Bubba’s as one of 35 bars across the country to receive $15,000 to divide among their customers watching the game. The payout? A cool $390 per patron. That’ll cover a lot of bad bets.

In northern Italy, rice and polenta are staples of the regional cuisine, whereas in the south, pasta is more common. In the north, it’s butter versus the south’s olive oil. Likewise, cream sauces are more prevalent in the north due to the abundance of dairy farms. And in the heart of northern Italy lies the Emilia-Romagna region, known for such delights as Parma’s Parmesan cheese and prosciutto ham.

Marena’s, located in the Evergreen District, specializes in northern Italian cuisine, particularly that of Emilia-Romagna.

Earlier this year, Rena and Jack Franklin, longtime owners of Marena’s, sold the restaurant to former Dux chef Mortez Gerani. The restaurant is now called Marena’s Gerani, though little else has changed. The vibrantly painted dining rooms are as inviting as ever, the wait staff is familiar (what a relief), and the guitar player still quietly performs in the corner. Gone is the host, while in is the complementary Italian sparkling wine.

For starters we selected the castellara and the caprese. The castellara was a lightly breaded and seasoned crab-and-shrimp cake that was fat with juicy seafood and served with a salsa verde of diced cucumber, tomato, and green onions topped with shredded, golden-fried leeks. The caprese featured soft buffalo mozzarella cheese and sliced tomatoes with fresh basil circling a bed of baby greens and drizzled with a blend of olive oil and balsamic vinegar delicious.

For soup, we tried the cioppino, a traditional assorted-seafood soup with angel hair pasta, basil, and a light tomato broth, and the chef’s special for the evening, an Italian vegetable soup with broccoli and cauliflower florets, onion, beans, and mushrooms that mingled well in a brown broth. Both soups were rich and flavorful.

The insalata del contadino e tonno was a large bed of mixed baby greens and spinach leaves with a dressing of herbs and balsamic vinegar topped with succulent, lightly grilled tuna strips. The insalata del giorno was a blend of baby greens, radicchio, and thinly sliced prosciutto placed next to a mixture of tomato, green onions, and chopped boiled egg. A balsamic vinaigrette drizzled over the greens made this irresistible.

For the entrées, one of my dining companions chose the tasty fruitti misto di mare, a large bowl of sautéed jumbo shrimp, scallops, and mushrooms tossed with angel hair pasta in a white wine sauce with a hint of lemon. The fileto de bue demonstrated perfect preparation. The two beef tenderloin filets were prepared to order and served with jumbo roasted potato wedges and a bed of wilted spinach, Parmesan cheese, and a green peppercorn sauce. The fileto de bue’s presentation was a creative twist on meat and potatoes and made it the entrée of the evening.

The scallopini di vitello piccatta showed the chef’s respect for the delicacy of veal scallopini’s flavor and texture. Two lightly sautéed veal scallops in a subtle lemon sauce made great companions for broccoli florets and polenta dressed with leeks. The entrée del giorno was grilled mahi mahi and shrimp dish with polenta and leeks. Unfortunately, this entrée lacked the luster of the others, and the portion was rather small.

For dessert, we ordered the mele con croccante, an apple-crumb-like dish with frozen vanilla custard. This dessert was huge, and we did our best to finish it. We also ordered the dolce al cucchiaio di nicciola (aka hazelnut cream), which was light, fluffy, and drizzled with chocolate sauce. My favorite — the tartufo, a classic Italian chocolate truffle with a dreamy zabaglione cream center covered by a gianduia cream and dusted with cocoa powder. It was a chocoholic’s dream come true.

Marena’s Gerani is located at 1545 Overton Park Avenue. Reservations are requested, 278-9774. Appetizers: $9.95-$13.50; salads and soups: $6.50-$12.50; and entrées: $17.95-$23.95.

Fandom sent me to Myung Sook Lee’s Iron Chef restaurant, named for the popular Food Network show on which Lee was a competitor. What I found of the Korean, Japanese, and Southeast Asian restaurant was unexpected — sometimes pleasantly, sometimes not.

Located on Summer Avenue, the Iron Chef is in a large metal building resembling a warehouse. A small bar area and large dining room are divided by a low wall. The kitchen sits at the back of the dining room and is enclosed in glass panels, allowing diners to observe the preparation of their meals. A wall-mounted television plays an Iron Chef video continuously. The setting is a little austere but casual with its metal chairs and tables. It’s good for large gatherings but not for an intimate dining experience. We had made reservations, but they were not necessary since the restaurant had few patrons on this Friday night.

We began with a complimentary, tasty salsa-like mixture of green onions, cantaloupe, tomatoes, and cilantro blended with rice-wine vinegar and served with lightly fried wonton chips. Next, we sampled the shrimp tempura. Although served with a flavorful sweet-and-sour sauce and prepared in a light tempura batter, the breading on the shrimp did not cook thoroughly nor did the shrimp reach an even doneness. For every crunchy shrimp with a translucent pink center there was another that was soggy and undercooked.

The chicken katsu was delicious — moist strips of chicken breast dredged through a dried flaky breading, fried golden brown, and drizzled with teriyaki honey sauce. Not to be outdone were the gyoza dumplings stuffed with lean beef and chopped green onion, boiled then pan-seared to a light brown and crunchy finish. Accompanied by a mixture of soy sauce, sesame oil, and rice-wine vinegar, these dumplings were a hit. To round out our appetizer choices, we selected the California roll — a spring roll wrapper stuffed with imitation crabmeat (fresh and authentic would have been better), cucumber, and avocado and rolled in a sushi rice blend (rice-wine vinegar, sugar, and rice). The roll wore small golden eggs of whitefish caviar like crown jewels and was served with traditional wasabi and fresh gingerroot — a visual and tasty treat indeed.

Our first entrée, the lobster, had been separated into pieces, sautéed in garlic, and presented on a large platter with green onions and broccoli. The vegetables mingled in a sweet and spicy sauce alongside a mound of long-grain white rice sprinkled with black sesame seeds. The menu indicated bread and salad would accompany the meal. We never received the bread and missed the chance to sop up the dish’s flavor-packed sauce.

The beef pepper steak we ordered was supposed to be served with sautéed mushrooms. We never saw any mushrooms, but we did get two pan-seared steaks atop a mixture of tomatoes, broccoli, and onions. I expected the steak to be sliced into thin strips; instead, it came prepared as two whole (and tough) steaks, well-done rather than medium as we had ordered.

Our party also tried the Thai sautéed shrimp — shrimp, onions, green onion, red pepper, and a hint of cilantro mingling in a spicy sauce enhanced with a hint of red chili pepper and encircling a mound of white rice topped with black sesame seeds. The plump, tender, and succulent shrimp enhanced the sauce without being overpowered by it.

Our final entrée, the Kashiyaki platter, was a selection of skewered grilled chicken, beef, shrimp, and onions with rice. The dish tasted as expected but lacked creativity. The menu offered bread or rice with each entrée, but we were never asked our preference and received four large mounds of rice instead. The menu also indicated that green salads would accompany each entrée but they did not. This is sheer lack of attention to detail. Plus, our server struggled to communicate with us and needed assistance on several occasions to answer questions. Further, we had to request that another waitress send ours back to our table for additional beverages. Not a good scene.

The ending to the evening came when we learned that the four desserts listed on the menu were not available. While we were disappointed not to try green-tea ice cream or red-bean ice cream, the manager persuaded us to try the two special desserts offered, the banana flambé over a chocolate cheesecake and a banana tempura. I wondered where bananas were on special. Of the flambé, I found the caramelized sauce too pungent for the delicate chocolate cheesecake, though other members of our party found the flavors quite tasty. For the tempura, bananas had been cut in half and dipped in a batter, lightly fried, sprinkled with confectioners’ sugar, and served in the same sauce as the flambé.

Although many items displayed creativity and intense flavor, overall I found the Iron Chef to be disappointing. The restaurant has potential but needs to critique itself and focus on the details of timing, service, and menu advertising. I hope my experience did not wholly explain why the restaurant was almost empty on a Friday night. The Iron Chef has been open for a while, and I am hopeful it can iron out the wrinkles.

The Iron Chef is located at 5529 Summer Avenue, 372-1313. Patrons may dine in or carry out, and delivery is available. The restaurant is open for lunch Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., and for dinner Monday through Saturday, 510 p.m. Appetizer prices range from $1.95 to $11.95 and entrées from $11.95 to $25. Wine and beer are available.

PHOTO by john landrigan

Comparisons between Harry’s Detour and its predecessor, Harry’s On Teur, are inevitable. Fair, too, given certain deja-vu-ish aspects of the new place — from the familiar menu items to the lack of parking.

Now forget about comparisons. Chef Harry Nicholas’ well-constructed and creative fare deserves your undivided attention. Harry’s Detour is a powerhouse of a place that does just about everything right.

The dining room is crammed with character — walls adorned with posters and artwork — and should you prefer to dine outside, Harry’s offers a small, front deck with plastic tables, chairs, and umbrellas, which sits nicely elevated above Cooper.

We kicked things off with some spicy appetizers. The Scallops Detour, Chaurice Diablo, and the chef’s special, shredded pork won ton. These choices were smokin’. The sea scallops, prepared with dried chiles alongside roasted corn and black-bean salsa, packed a fiery punch. The smoked Cajun chaurice sausage, bathed in a dark Cajun barbecue sauce and served with crackers, cranked it up a notch. But our favorite, the stuffed won ton with black beans and spicy shredded pork in a sticky currant sauce, was most definitely hot. The delayed reaction of the chile on the palate made itself known, forcefully, without a residual afteraste.

Samples of Harry’s entrées included curry Shrimp Bangkok, Pork Evelyn, Greek lemon chicken Newport, and Scallops Harry in a lobster cream sauce. The star, however, was Dave’s Rap, succulent Chilean sea bass wrapped in bacon, flash-baked and surrounded by perfectly wilted baby greens, then crowned with a pear-and-peach vinegar sauce. The bacon wrap was a tad undercooked but the fish melted like butter in our mouths. The tangy vinegar contrasted with the sweetness of the fruit and provided just the right companion for the greens. The Tequila Mockingbird, a jumbo chicken breast stuffed with roasted peppers, was topped with a divine mixture of herbs, lime, and tequila all served over a mound of seasoned new potatoes. This is one large entrée, and, for just over 10 bucks, we definitely got our money’s worth.

The Shrimp Nirvana is ecstasy itself for a shrimp-and-grits lover. Chef Nicholas adds his own twist to this regional favorite — the herb-seasoned jumbo grilled shrimp are surrounded by a molded polenta gnocchi (a peasant porridge shaped into a dumpling) and enhanced with a cream sauce. Our final entrée was the filet dauphine, a beef tenderloin stuffed with tasso (Cajun pork, highly seasoned with chile and other spices then smoked), oysters, spinach, and breadcrumbs atop wild mushrooms with a red-wine reduction. My guest requested the filet extremely rare, and it arrived as ordered. He especially enjoyed the marriage of pork, spinach, oysters, and beef.

No dessert menu was available, but our waitress was quick to indulge our sweet tooth. She eagerly suggested the warm pound cake soaked with a delectable warm rum sauce. It was divine, but it had stiff competition in the white-chocolate bread pudding with white-chocolate rum sauce and candied walnuts. For chocolate lovers, there’s a fudge brownie topped with white-chocolate chips and served with a scoop of french vanilla ice cream smothered in fudge sauce and melted caramel. The least exciting dessert, although appropriately crafted, was the chocolate Chambord truffles with walnuts and whipped cream. The truffles failed in comparison to the other desserts.

Harry’s Detour, 532 South Cooper (276-7623), is open Tuesday through Sunday from 11:30 a..m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday brunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Appetizers range from $3.95 to $6.50 and entrées $9.95 to $19.95. No reservations accepted.

Many cuisines are traditionally simple and direct in style and none more so
than Italian. Italian cooking in its truest and simplest forms can be prepared
quickly or extremely slowly, but the best are conceived of the finest
ingredients, as fresh as can be found in the locality of the chef and if not
fresh, then skillfully preserved.

Lucchesi’s Ravioli & Pasta Co. blends “Old World”
preservation techniques — such as those found in their olive oils, cured
meats, and vegetables — with the freshest ingredients found in the Mid-South.
Last year, Lucchesi’s expanded its heat-at-home Italian take-out to include a
small restaurant at its Germantown Plaza location. The result is a relaxing,
friendly, and intimate setting. It has the feel of dinner at a close friend’s
house, and that friend just happens to be Italian and a great cook.

For appetizers, we ordered the toasted ravioli served with
Lucchesi’s classic marinara sauce and the chef’s featured Italian tapas
platter. Lucchesi’s prides itself on fresh, homemade pasta, and the ravioli
stuffed with Parmesan, ricotta, and spinach was no letdown. Served with a
spicy “sailor style” tomato sauce flavored with garlic, basil, and
oregano, the ravioli absorbed the sauce and we absorbed the appetizer. The
tapas platter married roasted peppers and roasted garlic with onion and
zucchini. The vegetables surrounded a small bowl of garlic, chopped red and
green onion, red and yellow pepper, green olives, and capers combined with a
blend of olive oil, lemon, pepper, and a hint of salt.

The house side salad was a large serving of romaine lettuce
mingled with ripe tomatoes, kalamata and green olives, pepperoncini peppers
(banana peppers), homemade croutons, and an Italian vinaigrette. The Caesar
salad blended romaine with croutons and a dressing of coddled eggs and
Parmesan-Reggiano cheese in an olive oil vinaigrette flavored with garlic,
Worcestershire sauce, and anchovies.

Entrées and chef’s specials offer something for everyone.
The menu is well thought-out and carefully planned to offer diners
traditional, hearty Italian fare as well as simple, fresh, and lighter
selections. Entrées range from ravioli and lasagna to veal and fresh
fish selections.

The meat lasagna featured large, flat ribbons of pasta about four
inches wide, baked in layers with meat sauce, blended ricotta cheese, and
eggs, and crowned with mozzarella cheese. Our second entrée was the
Parmigiano-Reggiano baked eggplant, tomato sauce, oregano, whole-milk
mozzarella, and grated Parmesan cheese in an angel-hair pasta crust. I have
never seen this dish served with angel-hair pasta, but it complemented the
hearty consistency of the eggplant and showed the creativity of the chef with
even the most basic Italian dishes.

The veal, which was advertised as lightly sautéed, was too
rare and positioned atop overly cooked angel-hair pasta smothered in a bland
wild mushroom and white cream sauce. The menu claimed the veal was served over
fettuccini, and we were disappointed by the substitution. This was the only
dish that was really “off.” Lucchesi’s pesto sauce, however, is a
tribute to the classic sauce of Genoa. The sautéed chicken in pesto
sauce was made with fresh basil olive oil, sundried tomatoes, fresh spinach
and garlic roasted chicken over ribbon linguine.

With our coffee we staked claim on the chocolate raspberry cake,
the cannoli, the tiramisu, and Lucchesi’s signature caramel praline cake. The
layers of dense dark chocolate cake and rich raspberry made for a decadent
chocolate fix. The cannoli – Italian pastry tubes filled with a mixture
of ricotta cheese, confectioners’ sugar, chocolate chips, and citron liqueur
(citrus fruit, cultivated for its rind and pressed for its oil and used to
make liqueurs, medicines, and perfumes) — came in pairs. The word tiramisu
literally means “pick me up” and the extremely generous portion did
just that. Layered sponge cake soaked in brandy and espresso with mascarpone
custard flavored with chocolate demonstrated the Italian art of preparing this
dessert. Lucchesi’s tiramisu is definitely one of the best I have tried in
Memphis.

But we saved the best for last: the caramel praline cake —
layers of dreamy yellow cake, buttercream frosting, and caramel iced with more
buttercream and drizzled with pralines and more caramel. Lucchesi’s claims
this is their most popular dessert and I know why. The cake melted in our
mouths. It alone was worth the trip.

Lucchesi’s Ravioli & Pasta Co. has two locations. Their
retail store at Mendenhall Commons, 540 South Mendenhall Road (at Sanderlin),
Suite #3, is open Monday through Saturday 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Lucchesi’s store and
restaurant is in Germantown Plaza, 2037 Exeter Road. The store is open Monday
through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. and the restaurant is open for lunch
Monday through Saturday and for dinner on Fridays only, 5:30-8:30 p.m.