Author: Susan Harrell

A meal at Equestria Restaurant and Lounge is a Triple Crown
experience, though one that comes with a Triple Crown tab. So is it worth it?
Let’s just say the fare wins over the fee by a nose.

But enough with the puns and on with the review

Equestria is located at 3165 Forest Hill-Irene in Germantown and
has less a decor than it does a setting — that of elegantly rustic stables.
When we arrived, we were greeted and seated promptly. We had several questions
about the menu that our waiter could not answer, and to his credit, he
requested assistance from a more experienced waiter, and the chef graciously
left her kitchen to explain several menu selections to us.

To begin, we chose shrimp and crab cakes served with a corn
relish and black bean/serrano pepper (a hot green chile) sauce. The
combination of flavors exploded on the tongue with flares of sweet and sour.
We also tried the jumbo shrimp cocktail, which was served in a large martini
glass, and the Tennessee oysters, which were pecan-crusted, deep-fried, and
doused in a tangy rémoulade sauce. Our party inhaled those.

Salad selections included the Equestria salad — mesclun mixed
greens, Mandarin orange slices, pine nuts, bacon, and a blood-orange
vinaigrette. The vinaigrette was crimson-colored and sweet with a taste of
raspberry. The tomato-mozzarella stack proved that layers of marinated
mozzarella, ripe tomatoes, fresh basil and a light pesto vinaigrette served in
a timely fashion can truly keep their goodness. (It doesn’t hurt that the
herbs are grown in the garden behind the restaurant.) But the smoked-trout
salad was the ultimate mix of greens and treats — Romaine lettuce, greens,
roma tomatoes, Mandarin orange slices, pine nuts, and purple basil topped with
chilled smoked trout. A barely needed sun-dried tomato vinaigrette came on the
side. The succulent pink flesh of the trout had been perfectly smoked.
Extraordinary.

For an entrée, one of our party ordered the linguine
Portofino — tossed linguine, mushrooms, and sautéed shrimp and lobster
in a sherry cream sauce that turned out to be a real lightweight. In direct
contrast, Polynesian halibut — a golden brown, lightly coconut-encrusted
piece of white fish served with a pineapple and red chile salsa and rice. This
dish, with its yellow and reds, was not only attractive, it was delicious with
its melt-in-your-mouth fish, sweet coconut, and tart salsa.

The roasted rack of lamb was encrusted with a white-wine-based
Dijon mustard and herbed breading and finished with a brown mint demi-glace.
The lamb, cut from the rib section into chops, was tender and flavorful, but
the brown demi-glace was heavier and had a stronger mint essence than the menu
described. Another entrée we liked: the 14-ounce rib-eye steak and
broiled lobster tail. The rib-eye was prepared to order, the lobster tail
generous and broiled to perfection. No argument here.

From the dessert menu: The blue-ribbon banana cream pie — rich,
creamy custard with fresh bananas folded in and a touch of ground cinnamon,
all presented in a graham cracker crust — was a true winner. Next up was the
tiramisu, described as an Italian cheesecake, with ladyfingers soaked in
coffee and Marsala, layered with mascarpone cheese and chocolate, and topped
with cocoa powder. Tiramisu is a particular weakness of mine though this
version was too soggy and not the rich dessert I’m used to.

Appetizers and salads at Equestria range from $8 to $16,
entrées from $18 to $40. Equestria is open for dinner Monday through
Saturday, 5-10 p.m. Reservations, though not required, are suggested. 869-
2663. n

food notes

by Hannah Walton

Hattley’s Homemade

“Everyone loves ice cream, and I figure there are not that
many other local places selling it,” says Hattley’s Garage co-owner Carol
Osborne.

At least not like this. For the last two weeks, Hattley’s has
been serving up tea- and coffee-flavored homemade ice cream. There’s Mean
Mocha, Chocolate Moroccan Mint, Camomile Lemon, Orange Chai, and Ginger
Peach.

This cool line is courtesy of Osborne’s partner, Michele Warren,
a regular culinary busy-body. From the sandwiches to the beverages, Warren is
forever combining flavors and experimenting.

Warren is now working on an Earl Grey flavor, as well as ice-
cream sandwiches.

Hattley’s Garage at 1761 Madison is open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Tuesday-Saturday.

Grisanti On Wheels

With something like 1,000 family-based restaurants in town,
what’s left for a Grisanti to do?

Take it on the road, of course.

Alex and Judd Grisanti have left Ronnie Grisanti & Sons
Restaurant to run the recently opened Grisanti’s Catering Company.

“We do it all,” says Judd Grisanti. “We’re
different from other catering companies because we come to you.”

Executive chef David Cleveland, along with Alex and Judd, design
the menu to fit each client’s needs. The team of chefs work in the kitchen of
Ronnie Grisanti & Sons during the day to prepare the food for the
events.

Grisanti’s Catering Company works luncheons, parties, weddings,
etc., starting with hors d’oeuvres and ending with dessert. When catering at a
client’s home, the chef comes with his own pots and pans and an adequate
staff, all of whom are professional chefs.

“We bring needed staff from the bartenders to the
dishwashers,” Judd says. “We like to leave the kitchen just like we
found it.”

The Grisantis started off doing events with only a day’s notice,
but now they’ve half of December already booked.

“This has been incredibly overwhelming and exciting all at
the same time,” says Judd.

For more information, call 323-8000.

Witty Work

Mother of Mother Witt, deejay of WRBO-FM 103.5, said to father of
Mother Witt: “Is that a possum?” Father said, “Possibly” –
– hence the dish, “Possibly Possum.”

“Possibly Possum” is no ordinary recipe. None of the
recipes Mother Witt broadcasts twice daily, at 6:35 a.m. and 8:10 p.m., on the
station is. The only requirement is that the recipes are easy to follow and
have few ingredients.

Witt, who says she rarely cooks these days, learned from her
mother and grandmother, who were in the catering business.

“My mother and grandmother were fine cooks,” Witt says.
“My grandmother was known for her wedding cakes.”

For her broadcasts, Witt uses recipes from her listeners, old
cookbooks, her family, and, of course, her own collection. Some of the
recipes, she says, are just from the simple days when she was a kid. One
example is the homemade Popsicle: pour Kool-Aid in an ice-cube tray, insert
Popsicle sticks, and freeze.

“The recipes get crazier,” Witt says. “Such as
today’s ‘Atomic Kool-Aid’ recipe where you mix Kool-Aid with orange juice and
Kahlua.”

“It’s so fun, and the feedback I get is so positive,”
says Witt.

In the four years that I’ve lived in Memphis, I’ve tried to figure out this “Memphis feeling” everyone talks about. I joined a church, went to Graceland (numerous times), and attended Memphis in May events. I’ve eaten more barbecue than a person should. But I still didn’t get it. I thought, What have I been missing? Then came an invitation from a friend to try the soul food at Alcenia’s Desserts and Preserves Shop on North Main.

We arrived on a glorious Saturday morning. Alcenia’s is usually not open on Saturdays, but on this day owner B.J. Chester-Tamayo was holding an art opening and brunch for local artist Larry Walker. As we entered the small restaurant, the first thing I noticed was the intimacy of the dining rooms — two rooms that seat a total of about 45 people. Then I noticed the colors — neon purples, fuscia, green, and gold — and the funky touches, such as animal-print lamps, silk flowers, and brightly painted cane chairs.

B.J. greeted us, as she does all her customers, with a hug and a kiss for each. Her restaurant, named for the owner’s mother and granddaughter, was hopping, and people were standing everywhere waiting for tables. B.J. warned us that due to the private party for Walker there would be a wait and asked us to be patient. We agreed to: With an atmosphere as electric and fun as this one, we were not going anywhere. Our conversations with other patrons and the staff truly projected the essence of community, family, and friendship.

Our waitress, Sherry, had also come in for breakfast, but when she saw that Alcenia’s was swamped she grabbed an apron and pen and went to work. Everyone waiting tables, cooking, tending the register, and bussing were friends of B.J., all volunteers helping with the brunch.

The menu featured salmon croquettes, fried green tomatoes, rice, grits, omelets, sausage, bacon, pancakes, and biscuits. Desserts included peach cobbler, egg custard pie, and bread pudding. For $6.99 a patron could order one main dish and three sides. Desserts ranged from $2.65 to $3.45.

The salmon croquette, a blend of pink salmon, cracker crumbs, egg, parsley, and salt and pepper, had been fried to a golden, crispy consistency. Three thinly sliced, flour-dredged fried green tomatoes accompanied the salmon. The tanginess of the green tomato enhanced the fish. Perfectly cooked grits and a large, golden-brown biscuit completed this hearty meal. My companion ordered the pancakes, which were the fluffiest I have ever seen. With his pancakes came sausage, grits, and an omelet stuffed with cheddar cheese and sausage. The omelet could have been a meal itself.

Alcenia’s weekly lunch and dinner menu consists of one meat, two sides, and cornbread or rolls, with each day featuring different meats and vegetables. Among the meat selections: pork chops, fried catfish, fried chicken, meatloaf, chicken and dressing, and barbecue chicken. The vegetables offered: cabbage, green beans, rice, corn on the cob, slaw, lima beans, pinto beans, black-eyed peas, meatless spaghetti, and macaroni and cheese. You can also order sandwiches and assorted munchies, such as fried cucumbers, hot wings, french fries, and onion rings.

Alcenia’s is best known for its cha cha (a pickled mixture of cabbage, green tomatoes, and spices), preserves (peach, apricot, pear, and fig), and desserts (pecan pie, sweet potato pie, bread pudding, and a featured fruit cobbler).

At Alcenia’s I felt like I finally got the education on Memphis I was looking for. And another thing I learned — if you plan on going, call ahead and let them know what time you’re coming and what you would like to eat. Alcenia’s prides itself on serving fresh food, so they’ll have your meal ready when you get there. n

Alcenia’s Desserts and Preserves Shop is located in the Pinch District at 317 North Main Street. Entrées range in price from $6 to $8.35; sandwiches and munchies, $1.50 to $5.35; desserts and preserves, $2.75 to $10. Hours: Tuesday through Friday 11 a.m.-5 p.m. and Sunday 1-5 p.m. Open Saturday for special events. Closed on Monday. Dine in or carry-out, 523-0200.

food notes

Elvis Eats

“We encourage any Elvis fans who enjoy cooking to join us for the evening,” says Elizabeth Boyd of the Viking Culinary Arts Center. That’s because on Friday, August 17th (the day after the 24th anniversary of Presley’s death), Boyd will honor the King by teaching fans how to make a Creole dinner, including stuffed artichokes, shrimp Creole, French bread, and bread pudding. And participants can watch one of Elvis’ legendary movies, King Creole, while they stir and stuff. Everyone is encouraged to dress in Elvis garb to really get in the spirit.

The class is open to anyone 18 or over, and is limited to 35 spots, 20 of which are already taken. The evening begins at 6:30 p.m. at the Viking Culinary Arts Center, 119 S. Main, Suite 600. To register or for more information, call 578-5822. The cost is $35. — Hannah Walton

Harry’s Back

For Harry Nicholas, the detour to Harry’s Detour was long. “I got in trouble five years ago,” Nicholas says. That trouble included a drinking problem, a brush with the law, and the selling of Harry’s On Teur (now On Teur). But now Harry’s back and he’s starting a new restaurant located at 532 South Cooper. Along for the ride is Betsy Gross, who is a veteran of Chez Philippe. “I’m probably the most grateful person on the planet,” Nicholas says. He says he’s been sober for five years and that he and Gross named the restaurant’s parent company Lazarus for obvious reasons. “I’m really lucky to be alive,” Nicholas says, laughing.

Harry’s Detour will open in “two or three weeks.” Putting the final touches on the restaurant, Nicholas predicts an American eclectic cuisine with all dishes made to order and a menu that changes daily.

“Basically it’s my interpretation of the dishes people eat,” Nicholas says. The menu will include Thai, Greek, and Hunan selections, among others. Nicholas will pick fresh seafood daily and grill meats over specially ordered pecan wood. “Real food is what I call it,” Nicholas says.

Nicholas describes one as yet unnamed dish of beef tenderloins cut down the middle, stuffed with tasso meat, oysters, spinach, and bread crumbs, then charbroiled to order and placed over wild mushrooms and red wine. Another (also unnamed) dish will include monkfish medallions wrapped with bacon, baked in a confectionery oven, and then placed on a mound of strong greens and drizzled with a pear or peach sauce.

Nicholas says, “I can’t wait to get this stuff out of my head and on the plate.” Call 276-7623 for updates on the exact opening date.

— Chris Przybyszewski

Grace’s Goods

When you hear the name Dinstuhl’s, you think of candy. Now, think again.

Years ago, Grace Dinstuhl typed out her own recipes and had them bound for her only child, Gary. When Gary showed it to his friends, they requested their own copy. On August 11th, Dinstuhl will be signing that, her first book, Grace’s Kitchen, at Davis-Kidd Booksellers from noon to 2 p.m.

The recipes vary from a family favorite, “Country Captain Chicken,” to macaroni and cheese.

“I thought everyone knew how to make macaroni and cheese, but I have gotten so many compliments on this particular recipe,” Dinstuhl says.

Dinstuhl’s father-in-law opened the first Dinstuhl’s Candies store and passed the business on to her and her husband, Gene, and they have since passed it on to Gary.

Grace’s Kitchen is available at Davis-Kidd Booksellers and all Dinstuhl’s Candies locations. — HW

Why are so many different versions of Italian dishes found in
restaurants today? Maybe because those who dish it out take it personally —
creating recipes with a faithfully individual touch. Dino’s Italian fare is no
different. Dino’s is as unique as its owners — Rudy, Mario, and Dino
Grisanti. Plus, Dino’s has been in existence in Memphis for over 25 years, as
loyal to the community as it is to the cuisine.

Dino’s has the feel of an old-time diner, from its swinging doors
to its seat-yourself atmosphere. With two dining rooms to choose from, both
seating approximately 40 each, there’s plenty of space for a party of two or a
large family.

For starters, we ordered the toasted ravioli and the mozzarella
sticks. The ravioli pillows were tasty and stuffed with warm spinach, garlic,
and Parmesan, instead of the traditional ricotta cheese, beef, or Italian
sausage. A simple tomato meat sauce flavored with an abundance of garlic
accompanied the ravioli. The mozzarella sticks were lightly breaded and
accompanied alla marinara. (Alla marinara refers to a simply prepared,
“sailor style” tomato sauce served with herbs.) Dino’s sauce had an
interesting twist, featuring large chunks of celery and onion in addition to
the tomatoes, garlic, and thyme.

Dino’s menu offers many homemade Italian favorites, including
ravioli, chicken Parmesan, spaghetti tossed with garlic butter, marinara, or
meat sauce, lasagna, and fettuccini Alfredo. The entrées come with a
house Italian salad, though you can opt for the tossed salad. The house salad
contains iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, green olives, black olives, sliced banana
peppers, celery, and diced Italian salami and is covered with a tangy
vinaigrette (usually a combination of oil, salt, pepper, mustard, and herbs).
The salad was fresh and tasty. The tanginess of the vinaigrette enhanced the
flavors of the salami and the vegetables.

Our first entrée, spaghetti and meatballs, was plentiful,
though the pasta was overcooked. Pasta is preferably served al dente or cooked
only until firm, not soft or overdone. Two large, fragrant meatballs, heavily
flavored with garlic, are served in a traditional red sauce. (If you are a big
eater, I would suggest ordering an additional side of meatballs.) The red
sauce was hearty and flavored with hints of oregano, onion, thyme, salt, and
black pepper.

PHOTOS BY JOHN LANDRIGAN

A distinctly different entrée but one full of flavor was the
fettuccini Alfredo topped with slices of grilled chicken breast. The
traditional bleached, wide pasta noodles intermingled with broad spinach
noodles and both came al dente. An Alfredo sauce incorporating heavy cream,
garlic, Parmesan cheese, and butter bound the pastas, which were topped with
pieces of grilled chicken. The delicate aroma of the cream, grilled chicken,
cheese, and garlic tantalized the senses. Now that’s amore.

The veal Parmesan, however, proved to be our favorite. Thin
slices of veal cutlets, pounded flat and dredged through egg and breadcrumbs
then sautéed on both sides until golden brown, were placed adjacent to
a bed of spaghetti with meat sauce. The veal had its own covering of marinara
tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese and was so tender you could slice it with a
fork — no knife necessary. I would recommend this dish to anyone who is a fan
of veal Parmesan; it’s one of the best I’ve eaten.

One surprise at Dino’s is their version of Italian bread, which
is served in thick slices (like Texas toast), heavily buttered and grilled.
Patrons devour it even though it is not the traditional bread companion found
at other Italian restaurants.

Although the chefs at Dino’s prepare all the desserts, shame on
them for not having any Italian desserts on the menu. Where is the tiramisu,
cannoli, and spumoni? We ordered the key lime pie, New York-style cheesecake,
carrot cake, and pecan pie. The thin slice of tangy key lime pie laid the
foundation for star-shaped dollops of whipped cream. And while the light corn
syrup and egg mixture capped by toasted pecans of the pecan pie melted in your
mouth, the sinfully dense and rich cheesecake was a little too sweet. The
carrot cake’s raisins, cloves, cinnamon, and walnuts were nestled between
layers of lightly applied cream cheese frosting.

Dino’s Grill is located at 645 N. McLean Blvd. and is open
Tuesday through Sunday from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Beer is offered but there is no full bar available. Dino’s does permit patrons
to bring their own wine.

---

food notes

Fast Food

For those of you in a rush at lunchtime, Cafe Olé wants
your business. The restaurant is offering “A Power Lunch Beyond Your
Expectations.” Just make your reservation (requires a credit card
number), pre-order from Cafe Olé’s lunch menu, and then show up. Cafe
Olé manager Deloris Boyce guarantees that your food will be served
within10 minutes of the reservation time.

Boyce says that response to the deal has been slow, despite the
offer being on the table — literally, there’s a card announcing the lunch on
each table — for over a month. “No more than two” V.I.P. lunches
have been served. Boyce says that most do not want to give out a credit card
number over the phone. In addition, she says that there has not been as much
advertisement for the offer as she might like. Still, Cafe Olé will
continue its V.I.P. lunches. “We’re going to keep with it,” Boyce
says. “If it works, it works.” You can reserve a table Monday
through Friday during lunch hours by calling 274-1504.

— Chris Przybyszewski

Risky Business

First impression of Yellow Fever Mesquite Smoked Pepper Mustard
Sauce: horror, thoughts of certain death. First taste: delicious!

The maker of the sauce, Feverish Foods, is a one-man operation
that’s been in business for about two years. Jeff McGovern had been concocting
the very tasty and unique stuff for about three years, but in 1999, he began
marketing it.

But what’s up with that off-putting name? “I just thought of
it,” says McGovern. “It’s kind of in bad taste, but it tastes good.
The mosquitoes carried the fever and the mesquite-smoked yellow
habañero peppers carry the flavor.” Okay.

McGovern says Yellow Fever is selling well. He attributes that
success to the fact that it’s very unusual, versatile, and there’s nothing
else like it.

What’s in the future for Feverish Foods? A small-pox sauce?
“No, no, no, no … no more diseases,” says McGovern, “but I’m
thinking about doing a Jamaican jerk paste and a hot sauce.”

You can purchase Yellow Fever at Cheffie’s Market, Miss
Cordelia’s in Harbor Town, and some area grocery stores. For info, call 758-
9661.

— Jeremy Spencer

The Great Outdoors

Forget for a second the acts playing at the brand-new Live at the
Garden outdoors-concert series at the Botanic Garden — Isaac Hayes, Kallen
Esperian, and the Robert Cray Band, among them — to focus on the food.
Simply, this series is no ordinary corndog-and-turkey-leg affair. While taking
in the music, patrons can head straight to the wine bar and then chow down on
food offered by vendors such as Sekisui, Corky’s, and Automatic Slim’s (or
bring their own picnics).

And then there’s the Encore Club Lounge. Located in the garden’s
Hardin Hall, the club will have a bar and fancy finger food (Chez Philippe has
signed on) and a staff so full that even the bathroom will be manned. Designer
William R. Eubanks is in charge of atmosphere, providing a different lounge-y
setting for each concert. But most important of all, since the series occurs
when it is barbarically hot (June-September), there will be air
conditioning.

The Encore Club Lounge will cost you, though. Starting price of
the four levels of membership — Bravo, Orchestra, Maestro, Impresario — is
$5,000.

Live at the Garden kicks off with Isaac Hayes on June 15th. For
more information, call 685-1566.

— Susan Ellis

Close your eyes. Can you hear Bob Marley singing in the background? Do you feel the warm breeze blowing through your hair, the humidity on your neck? Are we on a tropical island? No, it’s just another rainy Saturday night in Memphis, and we’re at the Blue Moon Restaurant and Tropical Bar. It may not be the Caribbean, but you wouldn’t know by the cuisine.

The Blue Moon feels intimate, with a smallish main dining room and bar area and a unique dining porch jutting onto the brick-lined interior street of the Chickasaw Oaks Plaza shopping center. The walls are vibrant coral and tropical green. Royal blue sconces with half-moons provide a delicate aura. Although the décor is tasteful with a wonderful palette of colors, it could be enhanced with tropical plants, murals, or photos to create a more native atmosphere.

Our evening began with the following appetizers: roasted garlic and St. André cheese with Granny Smith apples and toasted croutons; black mussels in a Jamaican “run-down;” crab cakes; and wild mushrooms and spinach. The mussels were plentiful, swimming in a French Creole sauce of coconut milk and thyme, flavored with a habañero chili. The heat of the chile was tempered by the coconut milk and did not overpower the delicate flavor of the mussels.

The chunks of crab in the crab cakes were a surprise. I haven’t been able to identify the lumps of crab in a crab cake since I left the East Coast. Many locally prepared crab cakes are overly seasoned and mixed with breadcrumbs until the crab is broken up and unidentifiable. The crab cakes at the Blue Moon are the real deal: lightly seasoned, lightly breaded, and not overwhelmingly bathed in mayonnaise. A mango jalapeño aioli (garlic mayonnaise) drizzled over baby greens cradled the crab cakes. The mango’s sweetness and the blisteringly hot jalapeño enhanced the garlic mayonnaise, embracing the crab as well the taste buds.

Our favorite appetizer was the amazingly simple yet flavorful roasted elephant garlic bulb and St. André cheese. Served on a platter, the garlic and cheese sat center stage with thinly sliced Granny Smith apples, red grapes, and toasted croutons. The toasted baguette croutons were the perfect base for the scoops of smooth roasted garlic, apple, and cheese. The bitterness of the cheese balanced the tanginess of the apple.

Four very eclectic and distinct salads are offered at the Blue Moon. Unable to decide, we ordered one of each: the house salad with mesclun greens and tomatoes, the Mediterranean salad, the rémoulade salad, and the signature Blue Moon salad. The house salad is a Provencal mixture known as mesclun, young salad greens from beds of seeds sown together. The greens include wild chicory, mâche (lamb’s lettuce), curly escarole, dandelion, rocket (arugula), and other tender lettuces. A raspberry vinaigrette drizzled atop the greens enhanced the flavors. The Mediterranean salad mixed the same mesclun greens with roasted tomatoes and kalamata olives. The epiphany of this salad? The warm pecan-crusted goat cheese. The aroma was tantalizing, and when the pecan and cheese ball was pierced with a fork, a prize of warm goat cheese created a union between all of the ingredients. The rémoulade salad of mesclun greens served with avocados and large shrimp was completed by a classic French rémoulade sauce, which consists of mayonnaise seasoned with mustard, anchovy essence, finely chopped gherkins, capers, parsley, chevril, and tarragon. The Blue Moon signature salad is a bed of mesclun greens tossed lightly with raspberry vinaigrette, topped with walnuts, Gorgonzola (Italian blue cheese), sun-dried cherries, and Granny Smith apples.

The portions at the Blue Moon are ample yet not overwhelming. We found ourselves overindulging, helpless to resist. The entrées proved to be individual masterpieces. The Gulf Coast bouillabaisse, originally a hearty fisherman’s stew, is prepared with large shrimp, white fish, and mussels and is flavored with saffron and a rouille. (A rouille is a spicy red-pepper and garlic mayonnaise from Provence served with fish soups.) The flavors were pure pleasure, though the shellfish overwhelmed the stew. The grilled Black Angus filet, generous and grilled to order, melted in your mouth. The beef is enhanced with a yellow onion demiglace, Gorgonzola, and a red and green chili aioli. Mashed potatoes and fresh asparagus completed the filet presentation. The grilled pork tenderloin was served in a reduction seasoned with Asian spices and gently nestled in a bed of basmati rice infused with coconut. The aromatic and nutty flavor of the rice embraced the subtlety of the coconut. The final entrée was the duck breast in a shiitake mushroom demiglace. The duck was served appropriately medium rare. The duck was charismatic, earthy and wild, and served upon grilled polenta, a baked or fried Italian cornmeal pudding.

After the entrées and so full as to be on the verge of exploding, we decided to risk human splatter and ordered four of Blue Moon’s homemade desserts. The cappuccino cheesecake had a touch of espresso and an almond ladyfinger cookie crust. The cheesecake filling was light and unlike the dense New York-style cheesecake. The white-chocolate and raspberry crème brûlée was served with bits of raspberries. The “chocolate oblivion” is a rich flourless cake. The result is a creamy decadent dessert adorned with drizzled raspberry purée and fresh whipped cream. However, the winner of the desserts, hands down, was the bread pudding du jour. The pudding marries warm chunks of apples and hints of cinnamon, and vanilla ice cream capped and melted into the bread pudding.

The Blue Moon Restaurant and Tropical Bar is located in the Chickasaw Oaks Plaza at 3092 Poplar Avenue. It’s open for lunch and dinner, and reservations are requested. Price range: $10 to $25 per person. A private dining room and full bar are available.

Forget jet-setting to Puerto Vallarta. Taqueria La Guadalupana provides the true flavors of Mexico right here in a strip mall. This is not Tex-Mex.

Located at 4818 Summer, Guadalupana is family-owned and has been open for two years. The interior is mint green with a tile floor and metal chairs and tables. Little painted houses hang from the walls. But what’s most striking is how this restaurant buzzes — with the chatter of 100 or so patrons, with the mariachi music, with the hustle and bustle of the staff.

The meal starts with a basket of fresh, warm tortilla chips and a green tomatilla salsa and a traditional red, tomato-based salsa. The tomatillo salsa was warm and spicy with jalapeño peppers and lime juice. The red salsa, the favorite of the table, had large chunks of onion, pepper, and tomato and was finished with cilantro. To accompany our salsas we ordered the guacamole, which has a bit of citrus to keep the dip from discoloring. In addition, the guacamole had hints of fresh garlic, coriander, and onion married with diced pieces of red tomato.

There are no alcoholic beverages at Guadalupana, though they do serve a variety of interesting beverages for those wishing to embrace the total Mexican meal experience. The orchata is a very sweet rice drink that looks like skim milk poured over ice cubes. It was refreshing and left a hint of nutmeg in your mouth. The fruity and fizzy non-alcoholic sangria lacked the mixture of fruits one comes to expect from an authentic sangria — oranges, lemons, and limes. This sangria tasted like a sparkling grape juice.

For dinner, we sampled the Combinacion de Fajitas (chicken, steak, and shrimp fajitas). The meats were sautéed together and piled high on a platter. Although appealing in presentation and quantity, the entire dish had the overwhelming flavor of shrimp. Disappointing. Remember this tip: “If you are cooking with seafood, always add it at the last minute.”

For the vegetarian, Guadalupana’s menu offers many selections. These include the Quesadilla Con Queso, Arroz, Frijoles y Crema, a flour tortilla folded with cheese, rice, beans, and sour cream, and the Sope Vegetariano, a thick fried tortilla with beans, rice, onions, sour cream, cheese, tomatoes, lettuce, cilantro, and avocado.

The vegetarian at our table chose the Enchiladas de Queso en Salsa Roja, Arroz, Frijoles, Crema y Ensalada, three cheese enchiladas in a red sauce surrounded by rice, beans, sour cream, and a salad. It’s a colorful dish that will make your mouth water the moment you lay eyes on it: fresh corn casings stuffed with a cheese mixture and covered with a juajillo chili sauce. The juajillo chili is the dried version of the mirasol pepper — mirasol being Spanish for “looking at the sun” — which gave the enchiladas an earthy and slightly bitter flavor. A subtle yet flavorful rice, infused with crushed tomato, surrounded the enchiladas.

I ordered an a la cart dish that included Sope de Asada, a Chile Relleno, and a chicken tamale. The Sope de Asada is a sopapilla hollowed to create a pocket for chopped steak. The overflowing cubes of tender steak, with shredded lettuce and sour cream, crowned the excavated fried bread, with the removed slice of sopapilla acting as a canopy. The chicken tamale proved to be small, dry, coarse, and flavorless. The Chile Relleno was a large pablano pepper that cradled a bed of Monterey jack cheese. The stuffed pepper was lightly breaded and fried. The Chile Relleno burst with the tanginess of the pepper and was pleasantly tempered by the cheese. The Chile Relleno disappeared quick.

My partner ordered our table’s favorite selection. Undeniably, the Bistek a la Mexicana, Arroz, Frizoles, Tortilla de Maiz y Ensalada is one of the specialties of Guadalupana. The thin slices of steak are seared to perfection and then covered with onions, red and green peppers, and a tomato-based sauce. The freshness and simplicity of the ingredients enhanced the color and taste of the dish. The aroma of the dish met the table before the waitress set the plate down. This was truly the climax of our dining experience and the entrée every one of us would go back for. A nearby table ordered the steak as well but piled high on a roll as a Torta de Asada, a Mexican steak sandwich. Another dish to remember on a return visit.

The refried beans were unsatisfactory as a side dish. Runny, flavorless, and lacking the spattering of onions one expects. Are the beans even fresh, or are they powdered?

The portions served at Guadalupana are generous, and we left gorged and satisfied. Real full on a meal that was the real deal.

Taqueria La Guadalupana is open Sunday through Thursday from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 8 a.m. to midnight. The prices range from $1.25 to $11.