Categories
Special Sections

The Cottage Inn – Long-Vanished Supper Club

aedc/1243820586-cottageinn1.jpg Although Memphis had quite a number of nightclubs in the 1940s and 1950s, the two that get mentioned the most by readers of my column are the Silver Slipper and the Cottage Inn. I’ll talk more about the Silver Slipper someday, and — if I feel like it — even post some photos of what’s left of the property, which once stood along Macon Road.

But today I just wanted to share a couple of interesting images of the Cottage Inn, which was tucked away between present-day Park Avenue and Poplar Avenue, just east of Ridgway. Years ago, if you were driving east on Poplar, a narrow road angled off to the right and intersected with Poplar Pike. The Cottage Inn was on that narrow road (which survives today as the street running behind the Shea Clinic — pretty much where a Residence Inn stands today.) Anyway, many years ago, I managed to find a dinner menu for this establishment, with an illustration on the cover (above) that showed it was certainly much fancier than its humble name implied — a gleaming Art Deco building, with spacious grounds and some kind of stone fountain in the front.

Categories
Special Sections

John George Morris and the Riviera Grill

In the April issue of Memphis magazine, I told the interesting story of John George Morris, who opened a restaurant on Poplar called “The Old Master Says” and even planned on topping the building with a 14-foot replica of his own head. Oh, just read the column; don’t make me repeat the whole story here.

Anyway, I had expressed some doubt that the plaster head was ever installed atop the restaurant (since none of my friends can recall such a sight), and I also had a few other questions about this short-lived venture. So I few days ago, a nice packet of materials arrived in the mail from George J. Morris, attorney-at-law in Charleston, South Carolina, who just happened to be John George Morris’ son and had read my original article.

Though he is still searching for a photograph, the younger Morris assures me that the giant head was indeed placed atop “The Old Master Says” restaurant, an establishment which, in later years, became home to the Dobbs House Luau. He also says the restaurant stayed in business for several years longer than I said it did, though I believe Memphis city directories listed “The Old Master Says” for only two years. Still, I believe he knows what he is talking about, so it is possible that Dobbs House, which is shown in later listings, continued to operate the restaurant until they finally converted it into the Polynesian-themed Luau (which had its own giant head — an Easter Island-styled one) by the front door.

Categories
Special Sections

John George Morris and the Riviera Grill

faa7/1243822009-rivieragrill1.jpg In the April issue of Memphis magazine, I told the interesting story of John George Morris, who opened a restaurant on Poplar called “The Old Master Says” and even planned on topping the building with a 14-foot replica of his own head. Oh, just read the column; don’t make me repeat the whole story here.

Anyway, I had expressed some doubt that the plaster head was ever installed atop the restaurant (since none of my friends can recall such a sight), and I also had a few other questions about this short-lived venture. So I few days ago, a nice packet of materials arrived in the mail from George J. Morris, attorney-at-law in Charleston, South Carolina, who just happened to be John George Morris’ son and had read my original article.

Though he is still searching for a photograph, the younger Morris assures me that the giant head was indeed placed atop “The Old Master Says” restaurant, an establishment which, in later years, became home to the Dobbs House Luau. He also says the restaurant stayed in business for several years longer than I said it did, though I believe Memphis city directories listed “The Old Master Says” for only two years. Still, I believe he knows what he is talking about, so it is possible that Dobbs House, which is shown in later listings, continued to operate the restaurant until they finally converted it into the Polynesian-themed Luau (which had its own giant head — an Easter Island-styled one) by the front door.

Categories
Special Sections

The Fantastic Hart’s Bakery Sign

2713/1243823012-hartsbakerysign1.jpg No listing of the great neon signs in Memphis — and boy, we have enjoyed some great ones — would be complete without a mention of the Hart’s Bakery sign, which stood like a beacon at Summer and Mendenhall in the 1950s and 1960s. Despite years and years — well, maybe a half hour here and there, tops — of searching, I have never been able to turn up a decent COLOR image of this masterpiece. But one day recently, while idly flipping through my old copies of Key magazine, I found an ad for the bakery that included the sign, so take a look at it:

Too bad it’s in black and white, so let me try to describe what I remember. This was a combination neon and mechanical marvel. First of all, you had a huge bright-red heart mounted on a fluted aluminum pedestal. On each side were neon-shaped hearts, arranged one inside the other, which got smaller and smaller as they reached the center. These, as I recall, were in yellow, and as the neon tubes flashed on and off, in and out, in sequence, the heart seem to PULSE or BEAT. At the exact moment when every tube of neon was illuminated, the giant cursive letters spelling out “Hart’s” flashed across the sign. Then they turned off, and the whole “heartbeat” started again.

Categories
Special Sections

Charles Oldrieve – River Walker

8af7/1243822801-charlesoldrieve.jpg Take a close look at this rather fuzzy image. It’s from an old postcard archived in the Lauderdale Library, and it shows just what you think it shows: A gentleman in long pants, jacket, and cap is WALKING down the middle of the Mississippi River. The photo was taken just as he passed Arkansas City, Arkansas, sometime in January 1907. And though it’s hard to tell from the blurry old photo, he accomplished this seemingly impossible task by strapping six-foot “water shoes” — basically little canoes — to his feet. And no, this wasn’t one of the Lauderdales, though my Uncle Lance was known for his decidedly eccentric behavior after imbibing a bit too much moonshine. This fellow’s name was Charles Oldrieve.

Oldrieve lived in Massachusetts. For reasons that were never made clear — not to me, anyway — he accepted a $5,000 wager (an enormous sum in those days) to “walk” the Mississippi River, all the way from Cincinnati to New Orleans, a distance of more than 800 miles. A former circus performer, he experimented with various devices for five years, and finally came up with his cedar “water shoes.”

Categories
Special Sections

The Grave of the Goat Gland Doctor

9ad7/1243821591-brinkleygrave-foresthill.jpg I wonder what it is about Memphis that makes our city such a magnet for colorful characters? One of the most intriguing gentlemen in American history wasn’t born here, but he dwelled here for several years in the 1920s, met his wife here and married her at the old Peabody Hotel, and today lies buried in Forest Hill Cemetery.

His name was Dr. John R. Brinkley, and he gained fame around the world as the “Goat Gland Doctor.” He’s also the subject of an amazing book by Pope Brock called Charlatan, subtitled “America’s Most Dangerous Huckster, The Man Who Pursued Him, and the Age of Flimflam.”

Born in Kansas in 1888, Brinkley earned various medical degrees from quack establishments and set up practice in the little town of Milford, Kansas. One day a farmer visited him to complain about a condition that today we might call erectile disfunction. The good doctor wanted to sell him some worthless potions, but the farmer was skeptical. Looking out the window towards a nearby farmyard, he said, “Too bad I don’t have billy-goat nuts.”

Categories
News News Feature

ASK VANCE

Curious Carving

Dear Vance: I know you like odd tombstones, and I’ve discovered a strange one in the Edmondson Cemetery on State Line Road in Southaven (below, right). Who is this fellow who claims he has “no flag or country since 1865”? — G.V., Memphis.

Dear G.V.: This is indeed an odd marker, with the inscription wrapped completely around it. My own imposing monument, though currently in the works and being revised and updated semi-monthly – will hardly be as wordy.

The fellow’s name is Robert Bruce Bowe, and the inscription on the front reads: “Born in Petersburg, Va., Feb. 29, 1836. Raised in Hanover Co. Moved to Miss. Feb. 1, 1860. Died Oct. 11, 1907.”

Now comes the interesting part, on a second panel: “I have no Flag or Country since 1865, an Alien in the land that my forefathers defended in war since 1624. Providence taking side with the strong and oppressive against the weak and just has caused me to live in doubt the past forty years and fear I will die so.”Ê

The next panel reads, “Company A, 7th Tenn. Cavalry CSA, July 1861 – April 1865. We rode from Vicksburg to Nashville, from Atlanta to Corinth, to Fort Pillow and to Belmont, Mo. Many a day and night nothing to eat, our bed the cold sod. The Stars and Bars and dear Mal were the idols of my heart.” The last panel is inscribed, “My aim through life was to do unto others as would have them do unto me, though sometimes had to fight old Nick with fire.”

It’s apparent that Bowe was a Confederate cavalry rider, who took part in many battles and who ultimately “lived in doubt” when Providence let those damn yankees win the Civil War. Beyond that, though, I couldn’t have told you more about Bowe and his family until I discovered a handy book called Mississippi Back Roads by retired professor Elmo Howell, part of a series that includes Mississippi Home-Places and Mississippi Scenes.Ê

“Robert Bruce Bowe’s tombstone has long been an object of wonder,” writes Howell. “An expression of religious doubt, as some have imagined; or only grief at loss of the war?” Howell discovered that Bowe came from an old Virginia family and met his future wife, Malvina (the “dear Mal” of the inscription), while visiting relatives in Mississippi. Although not much is known of his life after the war, Howell reports that Bowe retired to a farm near Plum Point, Mississippi, where he died in 1907. His wife had died two years before, and the old soldier’s will decreed that his property be divided among his nine heirs, with his longtime servant getting “a fifty-dollar horse.”

Diamond Days

Dear Vance: My dad played baseball years ago in Memphis and Mississippi, and I’m sending you a tattered photo of him with the Orgill Brothers company team. He’s at the bottom left in the picture, and was a pitcher for the team. What kind of company was it? — P.J., Dothan, Alabama.

Dear P.J.: Before my parents enrolled me in the finest private schools in Belgium, my athletic endeavors (in this country at least) were mainly confined to shrieking like a banshee as my thuggish classmates pelted me with Dodge-balls on the dusty playgrounds of Memphis. And those were the girls. So, reluctant to dredge up those horrible memories again, I asked one of my capable assistants to investigate the old baseball leagues that your father played for.Ê

Here’s what she found out. According to Johnny Rudd at the Memphis Division of Park Services (formerly the Park Commission), the All-Memphis Baseball League was organized here in the 1940s, composed of “mostly former college and ex-pro players, and guys who just wanted to play ball.” The teams were sponsored by local firms, including Orgill Brothers, a hardware company founded in 1847 that is still in business today – in fact, it’s the oldest family-owned firm in town. In the early days, Orgill sold hardware, cutlery, and guns – everything a pioneer town would need. By the 1900s, the company branched out with Tettenborn refrigerators, Jewel gas ranges, Radiant home heating stoves, Yale locks, and all sorts of other stuff. Today, Orgill, Inc., is a hardware wholesaler.

The All-Memphis Baseball League played its last inning in 1997. Now, Rudd says that adult amateur baseball is organized into several leagues around here, which are affiliated with the American Amateur Baseball Congress, the National Amateur Baseball Federation, and the United States Baseball Congress. Some of the teams playing today are the Memphis Royals, Memphis Blues, and DeSoto Giants, who play in leagues named after veteran baseball players – Stan Musial, Mickey Mantle, Connie Mack, and others. If you want to learn more, visit the Royals Web site(www.eteamz.com/memphisroyals) or call Rudd himself at 454-5200. It’s way too complicated to go into here, and I’m still smarting from all those terrifying days of Dodgeball.

Submarine Sighting

Dear Vance: While at Mr. Pride Car Wash on Poplar, I looked to the east. Painted on the back of the facade of a building on Mendenhall is “1967.” I know that building once housed a store called the Yellow Submarine, where one could buy a waterbed, albums, incense, and other things that I was too young to know about. Correct? — R.B., Memphis.

Dear R.B.: Yes and no. The little brick store you’ve noticed did indeed house an interesting “alternative” establishment called the Yellow Submarine, which had a magnificent mural across the facade painted by a talented artist named LeRoy Best, if I remember correctly. But that establishment didn’t open on Mendenhall until late 1970 or early 1971, several years after the date you spied on the bricks.Ê

In 1967, the little building actually housed a lawn mower repair shop, owned and operated by a fellow named Joseph Bianchi, who had started his business there in the early 1960s. When Bianchi moved out in 1968, a Coleman-Taylor transmission repair joint moved in, and remained there until the Yellow Submarine took over.Ê

It’s funny that quite a few people remember the Yellow Submarine, but it stayed there only about five years. After that came Vic’s Auto Repair – the building seemed destined to be a repair shop for something or other – though today it’s used for storage. I stuck my little face up to the mail slot in the front door and tried to peer in. I swear I caught a whiff of patchouli and thought I could make out an old Blue Cheer poster, dimly fluorescent under the flickering glow of a black light – nah, must have been my imagination.Ê

[“Ask Vance” appears every month in Memphis magazine. Got a question for Vance? Send it to ÒAsk VanceÓ at Memphis magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101, or e-mail him at askvance@memphismagazine.com]

Categories
News News Feature

ASK VANCE

There is no justice in the world. It’s bad enough that I have penned this column for decades — it certainly seems that way — in exchange for a mere pittance month after month. Readers, I do not exaggerate. My W-2 form actually lists “A Mere Pittance” under “wages, tips, and other compensation.” Who knew it was an actual payroll term?

What’s more, during the production of this 25th anniversary issue, I have waited ever-so-patiently for the editors to come downstairs to my basement cubicle and seek my counsel about which of my many, many fine columns they planned to reprint this month. Just yesterday, though, I discovered they had no plans to reprint a single one of them! (“As soon as you start writing a decent column,” snipped my publisher, “then we’ll consider reprinting them.”)

And to rub even more salt in the wound, instead of my usual enchanting discourses on the cares and concerns of our readers — what happened to this, what’s the meaning of that? — I have been commanded to devote this month’s entire column to various questions and queries that have been raised now and then about the history of this publication.

So let’s get this over with so I can go back to sulking:

What was the original name of Memphis magazine?

Volume 1, Number 1 first appeared on the newsstands carrying the title City of Memphis magazine. There had recently been a Memphis magazine, produced by the local Chamber of Commerce, which had met an untimely end in 1973. Not wanting to be tarred with the same brush, the Founding Fathers chose the City of Memphisname instead.

In fact, we scrounged around in our “files” (actually, piles of battered shoeboxes) and found the original mock-up of our very first cover (see below). For reasons no one can remember, we ultimately used a considerably older Ed Crump on the April 1976 cover.

The brand-new City of Memphis offered much interesting fare, such as “A Conversation with Boss Crump,” “An Insider’s Guide to Memphis,” and an editorial by attorney Lucius Burch, identified as “a champion of worthwhile causes.” Now which one would you pick up, standing in line at Seessel’s with your arms filled with six-packs and Little Debbie snack cakes? In fact, 25 years later, that first issue is still full of good stories. It’s definitely on my to-read list, any day now, just as soon as I get through my stack of Seventeens.

The stigma of the earlier failed Memphis finally passed by the way, and this publication dropped that City of in April 1978 (above right). It’s a good name, we think. We’ll probably stick with it for another 25 years or so.

City of MemphisWho has been featured on the cover more than anyone else?

Oh, that’s an easy one. The King of Rock-and-Roll is King of Memphis, with Elvis Presley appearing on the covers of 10 issues since 1976. If you count a related story about former wife Priscilla, then the residents of Graceland were honored on 11 covers — and those are cover stories, you understand. We’re not even counting the half-dozen other times we’ve run a picture of Elvis on the cover, or just mentioned him, in a shameless attempt to boost sales.

Runner-up, with three covers so far, is a tie: our favorite East High alum, Cybill Shepherd, and the mysterious Dr. Lancelot Bueno, with three each.

What was the largest, fattest, thickest issue ever produced?

The very first magazines were rather lean, that’s for sure. In fact, our premiere issue was just 44 pages. But we had reached our stride by the mid-1980s, producing whopping tomes that strained the backs of even the hardiest mail carriers. The thickest issue so far is August 1988, with 272 pages. Though records are scanty from that period, I’m told that particular “City Guide” generated $43.75 in advertising revenues — after deducting staff expenses like pencils, paper, biscuits, and cheap liquor.

Is it true the first art director now works for Rolling Stone?

Technically, no. Jack Atkinson was listed on the masthead as “design director” for the first issue only. After that, the credit for the magazine design went to “Jack Apple Graphics,” though most of the actual work, so I’m told, was being performed by an Apple employee, a young fellow from Mississippi by the name of Fred Woodward. Fred officially became art director in September 1976, a position he held until May 1980, when our very talented Murry Keith took over. After stints at D magazine in Dallas and Texas Monthly in Austin, Fred joined the staff of Rolling Stone, where he’s art director. Under his direction, Rolling Stone has won more design awards than any magazine in the United States. We like to think it’s all because of us.

Tell the truth. What’s the worst story you’ve ever run?

I’ll have you know that in 25 years we have never published anything that didn’t stand the test of time, set new standards, push the envelope, and all sorts of other clichés.

Well, that’s not quite true. Some of the pieces we published surely had merit when we assigned them, but a few of them today do seem a trifle stale. My own recommendations for least-compelling stories would have to include:

¥ “West Memphis: More Than a Truck Stop?”

¥ “Sludge: The $400 Million Gamble” (May 1979)

¥ “A Paraguayan Holiday” (April 1981)

¥ “Minerva Johnican’s Amazing Comeback” (March 1984)

¥ “What’s New in Running Gear” (July/August 1985)

¥ “Dream Cars” (October 1991)

No, I’m not making these up. Furthermore, as proof of our continuing ability to explore the critically important issues of the day — during October, anyway — I submit the following series as Exhibits A, B, C, and D:

¥ “Rating the Imported Beers” (October 1978)

¥ “Rating the Imported Beers II” (October 1980)

¥ “The Great American Beer Taste-off” (October 1981)

¥ “Rating the Imported Beers” (October 1984).

Finally, what did the “MM” in MM Corporation stand for?

Uh, it stood for Memphis Magazine. These days, though, the company is called Contemporary Media, Inc.

Inc. stands for “incorporated,” in case you were stumped by that, too.

[“Ask Vance” appears every month in Memphis magazine. Got a question for Vance? Send it to “Ask Vance” at Memphis magazine, P.O. Box 1738, Memphis, TN 38101, or e-mail him at askvance@memphismagazine.com]

Categories
News News Feature

ASK VANCE

Dear Vance: Look what I purchased on eBay — a stereopticon card showing President William McKinley in Memphis. So when did he come here, where is this scene depicted on the card, and why did he visit? — M.F., Memphis.

Dear M.F.: So many questions, and such a limited amount of space I have these days — not like those book-length columns that we used to run back in the 1930s, before the terrible shiny-white paper shortage — so I’ll get right to the point.

Our 25th president had been elected to a second term in office in 1900 and, for reasons that he never really made clear to me, decided to embark on a goodwill tour of the country the following year, taking with him five of his cabinet members. The party left Washington, D.C., by train in mid-April and made a looping journey through the sunny Southland. Newspapers reported that the individual railroad cars, “among the handsomest ever constructed in this country,” were given names: The president’s coach was the Olympia; others were Omena, Guina, St. James, Pelion, and Charmion. I just thought you should know that. After a brief stop in Corinth, Mississippi, the train arrived at the Calhoun Street Station — site of today’s Central Station — on Tuesday afternoon, April 30th.

An artillery squad fired a 21-gun salute, and Company A of the Confederate Veterans formed an honor guard as McKinley and his entourage filed into fancy carriages for the drive to Court Square. The newspapers of the day noted the irony, “as the men in gray with the western sun beaming fiercely on their gray heads and stooped forms marched as a guard to the former leader of the blue and the Grand Army of the Republic.” Nearly 40 years had passed, but we were still cranky about the way it ended, you understand.

At Court Square, “the masses of humanity filled every available space” to see the president, and “every time he changed a pose, the camera fiends took a snap shot of him.” Even then, you see, the paparazzi were making themselves a nuisance. But if they hadn’t been there, M.F., you wouldn’t have your nice photo, which provides a three-dimensional image of the event if you can find one of the viewers the old cards fit in.

McKinley stepped up on the makeshift platform you see here and made a brief speech, thanking Memphians for “the warmth of your welcome and the generosity of your greeting” and paying special tribute to “the valor of the Tennessean [which] has been conspicuous upon every battlefield of the American republic.” I’m sorry I don’t have space to reprint it here.

Afterwards, the president and his staff attended a small reception at the Nineteenth Century Club, when it was located downtown on Third Street, and after that they attended a gala banquet at the Peabody Hotel. Not the hotel readers know today, but the first one, which stood at Main and Monroe. The Commercial Appeal devoted six pages to the banquet, even running a diagram showing where each person was seated “At the President’s Table.” Among other things, anyone wishing to squint long and hard enough at the accounts preserved on microfilm (as I did) will learn that the dignitaries dined on lobster cutlets and “teal ducks,” the president sat with his back to the north (hmmm — is that significant?), and a two-foot-wide ribbon of American Beauty roses stretched down the middle of the main table. But what’s really interesting is that all this hubbub was for the men only. The women, including Mrs. McKinley and her escorts, attended a smaller reception in the Peabody Cafe — sort of like the menfolk attending a grand party in Chez Philippe while the women lunch at Cafe Expresso. In fact, newspapers reported, “No toasts were proposed, as it was desired to shorten the dinner in order to give the ladies opportunity for looking in on the banqueters and hearing the president’s speech.” As long as they stood outside in the hallway, I suppose, and kept quiet.

The parties, big and small, wrapped up around midnight, and instead of staying in Memphis, McKinley and Company returned to the train, which departed around 1:30 in the morning. The Olympia, Omena, and the rest were sleeper cars, you understand.

Memphis’ brush with greatness was over. Only one element hinted at a later fate. The Commercial Appeal observed that McKinley was followed everywhere by detectives and Secret Service: “These precautions are always taken as a safeguard in the event of any possible attack.” The tour headed west to California, then looped back east. Then, on the afternoon of September 6, 1901, while attending a reception at the Pan-American Exposition in Buffalo, New York, McKinley was shot down by Leon

Czolgosz, whom the papers described as an “anarchist.” He died eight days later.

Holiday Inn History

Dear Vance: I know that the first Holiday Inn was on Summer, but I understand that founder Kemmons Wilson also built others at the main entrances of our city. So where are they today? — D.T., Memphis.

Dear D.T.: One thing you must remember is that the main “entrances” to our city in 1952, the year the first Holiday Inn opened, were different from what they might be today. After all, this was before the expressways, and before Poplar became the main east-west corridor.

As you mentioned, the first Holiday Inn, with 120 rooms, opened at 4941 Summer, just east of Mendenhall, in August 1952. Wilson then built three more, as he told reporters, “one on each corner of the city, so you couldn’t come into Memphis without passing one of my hotels.”

The locations today may surprise you. Holiday Inn North, also 120 rooms, was located at 4022 Highway 51 North, at the corner of Watkins. Today it’s a scruffy vacant lot.

Holiday Inn South, with just 76 rooms the smallest of the original four, was built at 2300 South Bellevue, or Highway 51 South. The buildings are still there today, little changed, but now it’s called the Elvis Presley Blvd. Inn.

Holiday Inn West, at 132 rooms the largest of the group, opened at 980 South Third, which is also Highway 61. Both the South and West locations, you see, were designed to draw sleepy travelers flocking into town from Mississippi. The main building (a postcard of it in its heyday is shown below left) that contained the office and restaurant is still there today, but much changed, and now houses the City of Memphis’ Traffic Signal Maintenance and Construction Department.

And the first Holiday Inn in the whole wide world? The one on Summer was converted into a Royal Oaks Motel, then torn down in 1995 and replaced the next year by a funeral home. In a way, then, that address still offers a place of rest for weary travelers.

Curious Carvings

Dear Vance: Several years ago, my husband and I bought several carved wooden figures (right) from an artist working in Grand Junction, Tennessee. We’ve never been able to find out much about him. Can you help? — J.L., Memphis.

Dear J.L.: I’m afraid you’ve stumped Vance with this one. At one time, some of my own family members — whom we lovingly referred to as the “black sheep” flock of Lauderdales — actually lived in Grand Junction, a little railroad town that is grand in name only. None of them knew anything about these carvings, or the person who made them. So I decided to include a photo of them here, for two reasons: 1) Perhaps a reader can help solve this mystery, and 2) it means less work for me.

[“Ask Vance” appears every month in Memphis magazine.]