In 1936, Herman Burkle moved his little bakery from downtown to Madison and Cooper, at the time a busy intersection in “East” Memphis. (Right across the street was an Esso gas station called the “East Memphis Motor Company.”) He found space in a narrow building that formerly housed the Idle Hour Billiard Parlor, squeezed into a row of businesses that included Purdy (later Purdy-Jester) Drugs, Piggly Wiggly #35, and La Vogue Beauty Salon. And there Burkle’s Bakery would remain for the next four decades.
Herman Jr. and his sister, Ruth Lee (shown here), took over the business in the 1950s. They added “restaurant” to the name, and 2125 Madison Avenue soon became a Memphis institution — a breakfast, lunch, and gathering place for everyone from bankers grabbing a cup of coffee on the way to the office to scruffy art students munching bearclaws after class.
“Burkle’s never tried to expand, to spice its menu with exotic dishes, or to move to a more populous or affluent neighborhood,” noted the Memphis Press-Scimitar. “It was satisfied to offer well-prepared bakery foods, meats, and vegetables without costly frills. And that is what has satisfied its customers, whether they are family groups or young people from the surrounding Overton Square.”
