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Food & Drink

Magnolia & May: Five and Alive

Magnolia & May restaurant opened on May 26, 2020. Smack dab during the pandemic lockdown. No vaccine. People were sheltering in place.

She and her husband, executive chef Chip Dunham, got customers, but general manager Amanda Dunham says, “There were times Chip and I would sit on the patio and we would be pretty empty: ‘Why are we doing this?’”

When they opened their restaurant at 718 Mt. Moriah Road, Chip and Amanda did curbside and to-go orders until they were allowed to do 50 percent capacity dine-in service.

Five years later, Magnolia & May, unlike other restaurants that bit the dust, is still open. To honor the occasion, Chip and Amanda are holding a five-day anniversary celebration at the restaurant.

“It’s just kind of something fun to do,” Amanda says, adding, “Five years isn’t super long, but it feels long to us sometimes.”

During those lockdown days, their Magnolia Farms Box was a hot item. It included the recipes for a meal and a cocktail as well as the ingredients, so people could whip up a Magnolia & May meal and drink at home.

The cocktail was a Magnolia & May Manhattan, which included bourbon, dark vermouth, and amaro.

It wasn’t easy operating a new restaurant in those days. “We joke we never got to what we call the ‘romance phase’ when everybody flocks to see what’s going on on,” Amanda says. “By the time we got back to normal, we were already around about a year.”

Chip began his culinary career as a pantry cook, making cold salads and appetizers at The Grove Grill, which was owned by his dad, chef Jeffrey Dunham. He met Amanda while he was going to school at The Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, New York. He worked at Slightly North of Broad Restaurant, Butcher & Bee, and The Glass Onion in Charleston, South Carolina, before he moved back to Memphis with Amanda.

His father and mother, Tracey Dunham, were thinking about adding a second location of The Grove Grill, so they decided to convert his grandfather’s insurance company into a restaurant, which became Magnolia & May. The Grove Grill closed in March 2020, and Chip and Amanda along with Chip’s parents, opened Magnolia & May about two months later.

Explaining why they opened when they did, Chip said in a 2022 Memphis Flyer interview, “We were ready to go and our employees were ready to go. There was no sense in waiting anymore.”

They began planning their Five Days of Magnolia & May about two months ago, Chip says. 

Wednesday, May 21st, will feature a $5 cocktail. Children can eat off the kid’s menu for $5. The cocktail will be the Barely Making It, a play on the Magnolia & May Manhattan. “We are partnering with Old Dominick to create a fifth-anniversary bottle of Tennessee whisky,” Chip says. Children can get burgers, chicken tenders, and hot dogs along with an ice pop. Today, that would cost $12.

On Thursday, May 22nd, Chip says, “We’ll take a trip down memory lane by bringing back our 2020 menu prices.” Instead of today’s price of $17, people will be able to get a hamburger for $13. They can get the restaurant’s popular shrimp and grits for $23 instead of $28.

Friday, May 23rd will feature live music on the patio. And, Chip says, “On Saturday, we’ll host a brunch featuring Crosstown Brewing [Company], which will be bringing some of its THC seltzers for our guests to sample during the meal.”

The fifth night, May 24th, was going to be a trivia night, but they’re hosting a wedding reception at the restaurant that night, so they’re moving the trivia event to Sunday, June 1st. “It’s just general trivia,” Chip says. “It’s always been something we wanted to do, but we just finally decided to pull the trigger on it. I think we’re going to do it once a month going forward.”

Customers also will be able to get limited edition fifth-anniversary Magnolia & May T-shirts and stickers.

Food wise, over the past five years, they’ve “kind of stayed the same,” Chip says. They describe their concept as “a country brasserie.” As Chip said in the 2022 interview, “We present ourselves in a rustic way, but while we’re a restaurant based in the American South, we don’t want to pigeonhole ourselves as that.”

Influences include Asian and Middle Eastern, but everything is “rooted in that classic French technique.” And now, Chip says, “We actually made more connections with local farms.”

They get chicken and duck from Riley Family Farms in Holly Springs, Mississippi; local beef and pork from Home Place Pastures in Como, Mississippi; mushrooms from Bluff City Fungi in Memphis; and fruit and vegetables from Jones Orchard in Millington, Tennessee.

“When we opened, we wanted to be able to do this,” Amanda says. “We wanted to be using more local farms, more neighborhood purveyors, but we weren’t really able to. Everyone was operating at such an odd time.”

Magnolia & May still offers the same friendly hospitality, Chip says. Amanda visits tables and chats with customers. “The closeness of the community is what we always wanted,” he says.

In short, Chip says, “You can get a very well executed, nutritious chef-driven dish in a casual and approachable environment.”

They achieved one of their goals last year, Amanda adds. “We bought Jeff and Tracey out of the business. Chip and I are the owners.”

A second location of Magnolia & May isn’t on their radar, but they “always joke around” that they might open a coffee shop. “You never know with us,” Amanda says. “It will be where the wind takes us. We’ve always talked about doing a coffee shop.”

That’s on their “bucket list for another five years down the road.”

So, why do they call their restaurant, Magnolia & May? “We have a tradition in my family of, before a baby is born, giving them a nickname,” Chip says. Amanda was pregnant with their daughter, Maddison, whose nickname is Baby Magnolia, and his sister was pregnant with their niece, Marilyn Lamey, who is called Baby May.

“So, now we have to open a restaurant after our son,” Chip says. Their son, Hudson, was born during the past five years. His nickname is Monkey Grass. Which, actually, sounds like a good name for a coffee shop. 

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Hungry Memphis

FOOD NEWS BITES: Judd Grisanti’s First Night Back in a Restaurant Kitchen

Judd Grisanti prepared his first dinners on Monday, May 19th, at Marshall Steakhouse in Holly Springs, Mississippi. Or, as the restaurant’s owner Randall Swaney, dubbed it: “Marshall Grisanti.”

Grisanti, a chef whose restaurants include the former Spindini, is the son of the late restaurateur Ronnie Grisanti. He will be cooking his Italian cuisine at Marshall’s on Mondays and Tuesdays, the days the restaurant formerly was closed. Judd and Swaney, who are longtime friends, thought it would be a perfect fit.

Apparently, it was.

“I thought it was huge,” Swaney says. “It was more people than we anticipated. So, that’s a win. A little over 100, which was great. That’s what we would have on a Wednesday night or a Thurdsay night. So, to get that on a Monday, is really good.”

Instead of the usual background music, customers dined to vocals by appropriate-for-the-night songsters, including Luciano Pavarotti. “It went from classic country to classic Italian,” Swaney says.

Marshall County Sheriff Kenny Dickerson, Beverly Hurdle, Randall Swaney at “Marshall Steakhouse Italian Edition” (Credit: Michael Donahue)

The menu for “Marshall Steakhouse Italian Edition” includes filet, ribeye, and New York Strip steaks, and Judd’s iconic “Filetto di Menzo Con Gorgonzola,” an eight-ounce prime filet with, according to the menu, “roasted encrusted applewood bacon wrapped and stuffed with gorgonzola, served with veal demi red wine reduction.”

The rest of the menu features Grisanti dishes, some old favorites and some new.

I wanted to be the first diner Monday night, so I got to the restaurant about 4 p.m. I ordered some of my personal favorite Grisanti items, at least a couple of which I’ve written about over the years. 

While looking over the items, I stopped at “Pasta Alla Elfo,” popularly known among Grisanti fans as “Elfo Special.” I knew that was going to be my entree. The taste of that dish is so memorable. The menu reads, “The Original Recipe created by my grandfather ‘Elfo.’ Jumbo shrimp sautéed in garlic and butter and tossed with mushrooms, hint of white pepper over vermicelli with parmigiana Reggiano.”

Elfo Special at “Marshall Steakhouse Italian Edition” (Credit: Michael Donahue)

I was very happy when I saw one of my all-time-favorite soups, “Zuppa Di Isabella,”which Judd created and named after his daughter. The menu describes it as “Asparagus bisque with butter poached Maine lobster.” It was delicious.

Zuppa Di Isabella at “Marshall Steakhouse Italian Edition” (Credit: Michael Donahue)

The famous “Miss Mary’s Salad” — tomato, lettuce, onion, with the traditional Grisanti’s chianti vinaigrette dressing — also was part of my order. And, for dessert, I selected Judd’s cannolis: “A crispy tube-shaped shell filled with a sweet, creamy ricotta-based filling.”

Miss Mary’s Salad at “Marshall Steakhouse Italian Edition” (Credit: Michael Donahue)

It was an excellent meal.

I called Judd the next day to see how he felt about his first night.

“I think it went great,” he says. “I was overwhelmed with all the response. Social media and everybody calling and making comments has been overwhelming. So, expectations were high. You get excited, but it’s almost like, ‘Be careful for what you wish for.’”

Asked what dishes were the most poplar Monday night, Judd says, “The Elfo was very popular, of course. The rigatoni and peppers. And the chicken parmigiana.”

More items will be added. “Some things we’ll change and we’ll be adding on more traditional Grisanti items as well.”

Swaney surprised him with the Italian music at dinner, Judd says. “It made me feel at home. It made me feel like I was back at Grisanti’s on Poplar. It was a nice touch. All I could do was think of Pop.”

Ronnie Grisanti (Credit: Justin Fox Burks)
Austin Justice, Sophie Swaney, Randall Swaney at “Marshall Steakhouse Italian Edition” (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Cody and Haley Walker at “Marshall Steakhouse Italian Edition” (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Dore and Joe Mancini
Rodney and Julie Wilson at “Marshall Steakhouse Italian Edition” (Credit: Michael Donahue)
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Memphis Flyer Podcast May 15, 2025: Barbecue Time!

Join Toby Sells and Chris McCoy as they talk about the Barbecue Issue. Plus, the troubling verdict in the state trial of the police officers who killed Tyre Nichols, and Central High School brings the world jazz band championship trophy home to the 901.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Lucchesi’s Branches Out

Remember this rhyme next time you crave Italian cuisine:

“Lucchesi’s Is now in freezer cases.”

Owner Michael Robilio says he’ll continue to make fresh pasta, meat sauce, marinara, and other items and sell them at his store, Lucchesi’s Ravioli and Pasta Co., at 540 South Mendenhall Road in Mendenhall Commons. But now his popular items are also available at selected retail stores, including Superlo Foods at 4744 Spottswood Avenue, High Point Grocery, South Point Grocery, and Cordelia’s Market. 

His products include spaghetti and meatballs, chicken spaghetti, chili and tamales, meatball and marinara, meat lasagna, along with buffalo chicken, pepperoni, and supreme flatbread pizzas.

Lucchesi’s lasagna (Photo: Lucchesi’s Worldwide)

The frozen Italian cuisine also will be available in Oxford, New Albany, and Olive Branch, Mississippi, Robilio says. He’s partnering in this new business, Lucchesi’s Worldwide, with Sam Lucchesi, Darrell Horn, Mike Gabrielleschi, Wes Kraker, and Al Stukenborg. 

He also used to sell frozen items, made in-house, at his store as well as in other stores. But the United States Department of Agriculture said the products had to be made in “an official USDA kitchen,” he says. “Which we are now.”

They’re now working out of Lucchesi’s Worldwide Kitchen, a commercial kitchen in Memphis.

“We have new labels, new packaging … more professional. We’re doing it all the right way.”

Robilio actually had the idea once before to begin selling frozen Lucchesi’s products to stores large-scale. “I thought about it. Five years ago, I leased a building out at Bellbrook near Corky’s and St. Claire Foods.”

“We had drawings done by FourFront Design [previously Fleming Architects]. I was ready to go.”

But Covid hit and Robilio got busier with the demand for his frozen to-go food items. “Our shelves went up 30 percent during Covid. We were doing so much business out of that little store, I realized I couldn’t do them both without someone else.”

He’s getting rid of his Bellbrook building to concentrate on the new business. “My five years is up in August.”

Robilio acquired the recipes when he bought his business from Vince and Pat Lucchesi in 1999. He added other recipes, including Ashley’s Chicken Spaghetti, which came from his wife, Ashley Boggs Robilio. It’s made with their homemade spaghetti, but it includes mushrooms, seasonings, and cooked chicken.

In a May 2022 “Classic Dining” column in Memphis Magazine, Robilio talks about the beginnings of the business, which was started by the Lucchesi’s in 1990. “It was just takeout with fresh lasagna and a couple of meals, like ravioli,” he says. “They always made the ravioli, the pasta, and the sauce from scratch. We still do. We have not changed one of those recipes.”

Robilio bought Lucchesi’s when he decided to change businesses. “I wanted to sell my grocery store. I used to own Robilio’s Big Star, but I wanted to get out of the business and I did not want to work for anybody.”

He and a group of investors bought it. “At one time we had two stores and three franchises, but that was very hard to do. We learned our lesson that going that fast, like a lot of people do, is not necessarily the best way to grow.”

They “more than doubled the business” at their Mendenhall Commons store after they closed their other locations, he says.

Sam Lucchesi, who is not related to Vince and Pat Lucchesi, says he and his father-in-law, Darrell Horn, came to Robilio and asked, “Are you interested in selling the store?”

Robilio said he wasn’t, so they said, “Are you interested in a distribution deal?” He said, “Yeah, I was trying to do that before. We both had that idea of growing Lucchesi’s beyond the Memphis area to be able to reach more customers.”

And, Lucchesi says, “The idea is to continue to grow the Lucchesi brand and get it out to as many grocery stores as possible.” 

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Hungry Memphis Uncategorized

FOOD NEWS BITES: Italian Night With Judd Grisanti Every Monday and Tuesday at Marshall Steakhouse

It’s a marriage made in Mississippi.

Beginning May 19th, chef Judd Grisanti will begin cooking his cuisine on Monday and Tuesday nights at Marshall Steakhouse in Holly Springs, Mississippi. He’s known for his cuisine at Grisanti restaurants, including the old Ronnie Grisanti & Sons and Spindini restaurants.

He and Marshall Steakhouse owner Randall Swaney are longtime friends, Grisanti says. They also have farms close to each other. “We’re always talking farm business,” Grisanti says.  “Both talking about the hogs he was raising, and the stuff I was doing, cattle and horses, and whatnot.”

About two weeks ago Swaney asked Grisanti, “How would you like to do a Grisanti’s at Marshall Steakhouse on Monday and Tuesday nights?”

Grisanti answered in the affirmative.  He said, “Man, I think it’s a great idea.’

For one thing, it would get him back cooking in a restaurant a couple of days a week, which was perfect, Grisanti says.

It also was perfect for Swaney. “Because the economy has been kind of bad for the past year,” Swaney says. “My business for seven years was up until August ’24. And then it went down. Like the rest of the country. We’re down about 10 percent.”

He was racking his brain — as well as praying about — how to get more business. Then, he says, a lightbulb went off. He ran into Grisanti four times last month. He thought, “Wait. I’ve already got a building. A whole kitchen. And nobody’s in there. What a perfect opportunity to open up a completely different restaurant on Monday and Tuesdays.’”

And there are all those people who follow Grisanti on social media “who would love to eat at a Grisanti’s restaurant. And now we have one inside Marshall Steakhouse. This is a huge winner for everybody.”

Grisanti’s dad, the late Ronnie Grisanti, was one of his inspirations when he opened Marshall Steakhouse, Swaney says. Ronnie would go into the dining room and speak to the customers. Swaney does the same thing. “The owner acknowledging the customers is something I learned and never forgot.”

Grisanti says his “biggest battle” was picking the dishes. “There are so many. Right?” Grisanti says.

“The first couple of days we’re going to start off  doing what I call ‘chef’s picks.’ Judd’s favorite all-time  classics dishes.”

Guests can expect to see Grisanti’s pan-seared “Halibut Rombo” with roasted red pepper pesto over white wine risotto topped with peekytoe crab and micro arugula.

He also will feature the meatballs in rustic pomadoro sauce, topped with hard ricotta salata cheese, a dish he and his dad  came up with.

Grisanti also will be doing some steaks, including his “Filet de Manzo con Gorgonzola.” It’s the one I’ve been doing for 40 years,”Grisanti says. “We could never take it off the menu. An eight-ounce filet — roasted garlic encrusted, bacon wrapped, and stuffed with gorgonzola cheese, and served with sautéed mushrooms and veal demi glaze.”

Appetizers will include prosciutto-wrapped grilled jumbo shrimp with roasted garbanzo beans, and a play on Italian humus, with roasted red peppers and ‘black olive salt.’ (I take) Kalamata olives and I dehydrate them and they become hard as stone. I put them in a coffee grinder. My own salt.”

Grisanti say he’ll have his tiramisu and his “Miss Mary” or “Mia Nona” salad, his Caesar Salad with black garlic, and, for dessert, his home-made tiramisu.

And, Grisanti says, “We will have wines we normally have at Grsasnti’s.” These include a Badia a Coltibuono Cetamura chianti.

Later on, he will add more classic Grisanti dishes, including  manicotti, lasagna, and ravioli. For now, he wants to “just give a little taste of what we can do and, hopefully, just grow from there.”

The restaurant will seat “only 130 guests each night because we don’t want it to be overwhelmed. We want everybody to have a good experience.”

People can make reservations on Yelp! or the Marshall Steakhouse Facebook page. But, Grisanti says,  “We’re not going to turn you away at the door.”

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

FOOD NEWS BITES: Tops at Summer and National Reopens

An old friend is back.

The Tops Bar-B-Q & Burgers location at Summer Avenue and National Street reopened today, May 7th.

According to the news release, the restaurant at 3353 Summer Avenue reopened “after a fire caused by mechanical issues in October caused the restaurant to close.”

Interior of reopened Tops Bar-B-Q & Burgers at Summer and National (Photo: Courtesy Tops)

According to the release, the Summer-National location was the sixth Tops to open in Memphis after the original Tops opened on Macon Road in 1952.

Tops now has 18 locations across the Mid-South. In addition to Memphis, they can be found in Southaven, Olive Branch, and Corinth, Mississippi, and Marion, Arkansas.

Summer-National Tops Bar-B-Q & Burgers team members: Tracie Washington, Kaiser Gilkey, Patrick Martin, Dinetra Merritt (Photo: Courtesy Tops)
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Food & Wine Food & Drink Uncategorized

Felicia’s Is Back

After a three-year wait, Felicia Suzanne’s restaurant at 383 South Main Street is now open. And the restaurant, owned by Felicia Willett-Schuchardt and her husband, Clay Schuchardt, is every bit as fabulous as people thought it would be.

She and Clay began looking for a new location in 2019, Felicia says. They previously were down the street on North Main Street. “We’d been there on that pedestrian mall 20 years,” she says.

“We wanted to stay Downtown,” Clay says. They live in the South Main district. “We are trying to bring back Downtown and bring people to this area again.”

They originally planned to open the new Felicia Suzanne’s in seven or eight months. But, Felicia says, “We were so invested in it we wanted to open it when it was right.”

The new space is a lot different from their old location, which used to house the old Lowenstein’s department store. “It was really one large main room,” Clay says.

With the new building, they were able to create several rooms, each with its own personality. Felicia wanted to get back to the original idea she had for her restaurant when she opened it. “Over the years we became the rehearsal dinners spot because of the patio. And a special occasion spot.”

She wanted the new restaurant to have “more of a neighborly bistro feel. Approachable.” The old Felicia Suzanne’s had white tablecloths, but now, she says, “We have these beautiful oak tabletops that were made by Old City Millwork Inc.” 

“The building needed more love than we anticipated. We had to completely gut it and rip out all the plumbing and electrical. That’s another reason it took a little longer for us to open.”

They put in a walk-in cooler, an office, and a dish room. In addition to private dining rooms, the restaurant includes the main dining room, a bar area with table seating, a side porch with seating, and a back patio with seating.

They’ll continue to host special occasions at the new restaurant, Felicia says. “We’ve got a wedding booked in October. We’ve got rehearsal dinners coming up, graduation dinners, business dinners.”

Her new menu includes her low country and Creole classics, but will evolve into more bistro-type fare. “We’ve even purchased a pasta machine. We’re going to include homemade pastas in the future.”

The current menu features favorites from her old location, including the Sunday Sugo, a dish described on the menu as “Rich Red Gravy featuring Home Place Pastures Beef & Pork, Parmesan Risotto.”

“This is an opening menu. These are signature items people have not had in three years,” Felicia says.

Over the next several months, Felicia will introduce new dishes, including a chilled seafood platter, steak frites, and West Indies crab salad, which is a dish Clay’s mother is known for. It includes fresh lump crabmeat, olive oil, vinegar, salt, black pepper, Vidalia onions, and hot sauce, and you eat it with saltine crackers.

She also will include a library of different recipes she collected over 23 years “that will rotate seasonally.”

In the next couple of weeks, they will introduce a “small bites menu,” featuring some of Felicia’s classics like her deviled eggs, which already are on the main menu, and her short rib grilled cheese, a country loaf filled with braised short ribs and white cheddar cheese, topped with béchamel sauce and “baked until golden and bubbly.”

Then there’s Flo’s, which is slated to open in time for the holidays. The space on the north side will feature seating for 32 and will include their old “Friday lunch favorites,” including gumbo, chicken enchiladas, po’boys, and grilled cheeses. People also can get grab-and-go meals for the week at Flo’s. “Flo is my nickname in New Orleans [where she worked for chef Emeril Lagasse for eight years]. And Flo’s is the product line that’s our pickled jalapeños, our tomato jam, and our green tomato chow chow.”

Felicia never stopped cooking after her old restaurant closed. “We were catering and doing private events the whole three years.”

When the old Spindini spot became available, Clay and their business partners urged her to open the restaurant there. It was a perfect fit for Felicia Suzanne’s and Flo’s. “They didn’t have to twist my arm too much,” she says. “This is in my blood. This is what I’m supposed to do.” 

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

FOOD NEWS BITES: Tops Now Offers Bar-B-Que Quesadillas

Tops Bar-B-Q & Burgers is becoming known for more and more items. Over the years, they’ve added everything from turkey burgers to fire-braised chicken to smoked bologna.

Now the Memphis-based chain, which began in 1952, has a new slogan: “We put the que in quesadilla.”

Tops recently introduced it’s Bar-B-Que Quesadilla. And, trust me, it’s incredibly delicious. I tried the pork quesadilla as well as the chicken quesadilla the other day. I’ve still got to try the beef brisket one. I can’t wait.

I asked Tops executive Hunter Brown to describe their quesadilla. “It’s a flour tortilla put on our flattop,” he says. “We added our smoked chopped barbecue pork shoulder, diced onions, diced tomatoes, a generous portion of melted cheese, and our Sweet and Saucy sauce. And a little bit of some of our barbecue rub on that.”

The sandwich comes with a cup of Tops original Smokehouse Ranch. “We have two types of sauce that go with the quesadilla,” says Tops executive Randy Hough. “Smokehouse Ranch is one that includes ranch, but we blend it with our hot sauce and some other spices.”

Hough describes the Tops quesadilla as “a fresh hand-held option that resonates with today’s diners.”

They came up with the idea a couple of years ago, he says. “It was in the early planning stages. We weren’t ready for that yet. There were other things we had to do. Get things out. Like chicken.”

About six months ago, they went full throttle on the quesadilla.

In addition to its delectable flavor, I like the fact this Tops offering is so big. The two halves of the quesadilla really filled me up. I also ordered it as a combo with beans and slaw. That was a lot of food. I feel like I had a feast.

“It’s not our first venture into creative offerings,” Hough says. They’ve also introduced, among other things, the fire-braised chicken sandwich and smoked barbecue bologna. “Both are receiving positive feedback.”

The Tops quesadilla “continues this trend.”

They’d like to introduce a new item “every few months if possible. Create some buzz.” They want to encourage customers to “try something new.”

They wanted a “a hand-held option you can grab and go” as well as sit down and eat it at the restaurant, Hough says.

Tops’ new Bar-B-Que Quesadilla (Photo: Jay Adkins)

I’ve eaten many a jumbo pulled pork sandwich dripping with sauce in my truck. As Tops likes to say, “If you’re not using a napkin, we probably didn’t do something right,” Hough says.

Lately, I’ve been ordering the jumbo Tops pulled chicken sandwich. I ask for it with slaw and mild sauce, just like a pulled pork sandwich. And since I’ve been going to Tops since the 1950s, I remember when all you could get really was barbecue and hamburgers.

I asked Hough if they might consider introducing other ethnic foods, like maybe something from India, now that they have quesadillas. “We don’t want to stray too far from who we are and what guests know us for,” he says.

The Tops Bar-B-Que Quesadilla “is designed to appeal to everyone. But I’d say the reason quesadillas do so well is we can still stay true to our core. To barbecue. Our smoked meats. We’re using our barbecue sauce. Our rub. And you can’t do that with every food group.”

But, Hough adds, “I don’t think I’d say no to that.”

Tops introduces its Bar-B-Que Quesadilla. (Photo: Courtesy Tops Bar-B-Que & Burgers)
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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Take It From an Old Friend: Papa’s Pimento Cheese 

If you don’t know already, Papa’s pimento cheese is one of your old friends. And it’s also a friend of Duck Dynasty star Willie Robertson, who just announced his endorsement.

It’s the old Holiday Deli & Ham Co. — “Holiday Ham” for short — pimento cheese, says Trey Jordan, founder, president, and CEO of Pimentos Brands, which makes the cheese.

“Papa” is his dad, Don Jordan, his Holiday Ham co-founder. “Dad and I started it together in 1993. … We had four sandwiches on the menu to start with: mom’s tuna fish salad, dad’s pimento cheese, a ham sandwich, and a turkey sandwich. And we sold spiral sliced hams.”

Their first store was located at Poplar Avenue and Perkins Road, but the business quickly grew. “At one time I had as many as 10 stores.” That included the since-closed Pimento Burgers Bar & Grill.

Willie Robertson and Trey Jordan (Photo: Courtesy Trey Jordan)

They chose the name “Holiday” because they celebrated a lot “around the Jordan house,” Trey says. “We used to say, ‘Make everyday be a holiday.’”

Holiday Ham became a Memphis institution. It was “around for a long time and had good success and a great run until Covid hit.”

Their customer base had been “people going to the office and going to lunch. Moms would come by, back in the day. We were the first fast-casual restaurant in Memphis.”

Customers still came by after they locked their doors during the pandemic. “We had people banging on our doors [for pimento cheese]. So we figured it out and slid it through the window.”

Everything changed after Covid. “Office workers didn’t return,” he says. “We had to close all our stores down and close the business after a 30-year run.”

But they soon discovered Holiday Ham pimento cheese wasn’t going down without a fight. A group of local business people told him, “You’re a Memphis legacy we don’t want to see stopped.” 

Papa’s pimento cheese evolved from the simple type of pimento cheese his dad knew as a child. “My dad grew up in rural Kosciusko, Mississippi. He grew up with pimento cheese, but he was born in 1929. Pimento cheese back then was a poor man’s food.”

People made it out of “some cheese in the fridge, some mayonnaise.” The idea back then was, “Let’s extend the food we had on the shelves.” But he and his dad thought, “There might be a better way to make pimento cheese.”

They now use two premier aged cheddar cheeses along with their secret spices. Kroger added Papa’s pimento cheese in 2020. They’re now in about 100 Krogers as well as other grocery store chains, including Albertsons, Tom Thumb, and Central Market. “We’re in eight states and growing. We’ve had some huge meetings. People are really excited about us.”

They currently sell three types of pimento cheese: Original, Jalapeño, Fiesta, and the soon-to-be released Smokehouse.

Jordan wanted Robertson to endorse Papa’s pimento cheese. “I think Willie has a tongue-in-cheek way about him. But Willie is all about family, all about his faith. And they’re always sitting around eating together. … When he tasted our product, he loved it.”

In a press release, Robertson is quoted as saying, “I tasted their pimento cheese, and I was sold on it immediately. This has that perfect Southern kick with every bite.”

Trey’s dad is 95 years old. “Still doing great. But, of course, he’s not in the business anymore.”

As for branching out into other products, Trey says, “We’re going to go in the ‘Dips, Spreads, and Sauces’ category, so a chicken salad spread potentially is down the road. Anything that fits in that bucket as we expand.”

Trey has no intention of opening a Papa’s pimento cheese restaurant. But he might partner with an existing chain. “I’ll sell it to Chick-fil-A and let them put it on their sandwich.”

For now, Trey really wants everyone to try Papa’s pimento cheese. “I think it’s the best cheese out there,” he says. “Most people say, ‘What do you put in this stuff? It’s an addiction.’ … People just love it. After you eat it the first time, you generally stick with us.” 

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

FOOD NEWS BITES: Elwood’s Shack Park Avenue Goes Out of Business Today

After a year and a half in business, Elwoods’ Shack Park Avenue at 4040 Park Avenue closed today, April 25th.

“Just not making a profit,” says owner Tim Bednarski. “I lost my butt. We’re doing decent sales. We’re just not making a profit like we used to. I’ve been doing this 45 years, and I can’t make a profit.”

Park Avenue, which includes a spinet piano and antiques Bednarksi has collected, “does a thriving business, but my debt was so great. I was determined to make it work.”

He says, “Utilities are too much. Last year they went up so much.”

Elwood’s Shack Park Avenue owner Tim Bednarski (Credit: Michael Donahue)

As for his original Elwood’s Shack location at 4523 Summer Avenue, Bednarski says, “Summer is hanging in there. I’m going to try to keep it. Make it work. I need all the help I can get.”

But, Bednarksi says, “It’s just that everything costs so much.” He adds, “I can’t double my prices. I can’t charge $26 for a one patty bacon cheeseburger. I’ve raised my prices three times in the last year and it’s still not enough.”

Bednarski still gets customers at his Summer location. But, he says, “We’re busy, but we’re never busy enough.”