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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Patrick Collins Has Made A Honey of a Deal

Patrick Collins is COO at Morris Marketing Group. That’s where he wears business casual and suits.

He’s also the owner of Ol’ Cappy’s Bee Products. That’s where he wears protective clothing, including a jacket with a hood and canvas pants.

Collins, 49, sells his locally-made honey as well as his products made from beeswax. On the weekends, he cranks up his 1985 Ford 150 and tootles down to Coldwater, Mississippi, with all his beekeeping supplies in the back.

And, yes, he’s been stung “many, many times,” Collins says, adding, “They don’t really want to sting you, but they do it for protection.”

He got into beekeeping about six years ago after he heard stories from a client who keeps bees at his RV park. “I got really interested in it,” he says.

Collins went to a meeting of the Memphis Area Beekeepers Association at Agricenter International. “It’s a half day and they teach you everything you need to know about beekeeping.”

He was amazed to find about 250 people at the meeting. “I thought it would be me and three old guys. Instead, it was an auditorium full of people.”

Collins was one of the winners in the drawing for a beehive, which was given away at the end of the meeting.

Photo: Courtesy Patrick Collins

They also gave him bees. “You get a box of bees, a small hive. It’s ready to go.”

And those bees lay eggs. “And you end up with 30,000 bees.”

Collins now owns 25 hives, which he keeps on land he owns in Coldwater. “I go down there at least once a week. Usually on weekends.”

He spent hours online “reading about bees and watching videos about how people keep bees and things.”

Collins also learned from “the bees themselves.”

“They’re doing their own thing and you’re going to learn whether you want to or not. You have to learn how to manage them or they’ll all leave.”

Collins was fascinated by the different flavor profiles of local honey. “You can almost really taste the floral notes of it. And the other thing is it changes throughout the seasons. We have a spring, summer, and fall harvest. And the color and the flavor changes with each harvest.”

Spring honey is “really light and really yellow.” Fall is “very robust.” And summer is “really floral, but it is a little more delicate than the fall.”

There is no “winter” honey per se. But bees still make honey in the winter. They remain in the hive “to keep the colony warm during the winter. No matter what the temperature is outside, inside it’s 90 degrees.”

Bees keep that temperature warm by staying in a cluster and vibrating their bodies. They won’t leave the hive until the outside temperature reaches 55 degrees.

A native of Tupelo, Mississippi, Collins wasn’t originally a fan of honey. “I did not like honey growing up. It just wasn’t good to me. It was probably a matter of a real fall honey. Or sometimes when honey is processed, some people use heat in that process and that can change the flavor.”

Collins liked honey for the first time when he tried some local honey about six years ago. Now, he says, “I eat honey three times a day. I mainly eat it as dessert. And I use it with yogurt, peanut butter, and apples. That’s what I eat twice a day for lunch and dinner. In the morning, cottage cheese, berries and honey.”

He doesn’t cook with honey, but he does make “no-bake power balls that use honey.” They’re made with honey, oats, chocolate, and peanut butter. “You can’t get better than that.”

Local honey is made from the pollen from local flora within a 50 mile area, so the honey Collins sells would be considered local honey in Memphis. “Our beehives are on the backside of Arkabutla, which is a protected forest area. So it’s wild. Lots of wild vines and flowers and trees. The bulk of the honey comes from trees. But flowers, too. Trees produce larger plants, which produce large amounts of honey.”

When his beehives grew to about 10 or 15, Collins knew he had to come up with a name for his honey because he needed to start selling it. “That’s when the honey really started flowing in. I knew I wouldn’t be able to eat it or give it all away.”

He produced 55 pounds of honey at his first big harvest four years ago. “This year, I harvested over 2,000 pounds of honey.”

In addition to his regular honey, Collins sells a balm and a salve made out of beeswax. He also sells a creamy, spreadable honey.

Ol’ Cappy’s Bee Products is a family business, Collins says. He and his son Reed bottle honey, and his wife Jill bags and helps with the deliveries.

His honey products are now available at Berryhill Farm and Mrs. Hippie Eats in Hernando, Mississippi. They’re also available on his website olcappy.com. “We deliver it to your house for free,” he says. “We just drop it off at your front door like Amazon.”

Asked who is Ol’ Cappy, Collins says, “That’s me.” 

“I love nicknames. And I have given myself nicknames over the years, going back to elementary school and junior high.”

Collins loved the name of the wrestler Porkchop Cash after he became a big wrestling fan as a 6-year-old.“You can pick any kind of meat and put another stupid word with it and that can be your name. Your favorite color. The street you grew up on. So, I adopted ‘Captain Porkchop.’”

The nickname was shortened to “Captain” when Collins was a server at the old Bhan Thai restaurant.

A 16-ounce bottle of his honey sells for $14, but keeping bees and selling honey and honey-based products is a hobby, Collins says. “If you don’t want to pay the price for the products, then I’m happy to eat the product myself. I’m kind of selling you my stash.” 

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

FOOD NEWS BITES: Everyone’s Favorite Irish Lass is Back

Jo Delahunty Chetter — aka “Josie,” “Irish Jo,” and “Irish Red Jo” — is back at Patrick’s.

The popular server from County Laois, Ireland, went back to visit her native Ireland June 16th.

She’s now back joking and chatting with the restaurant’s customers, who she sometimes calls “laddies” or “lassies” in her Irish brogue.

And diners love her.

She’s been at Patrick’s at 4972 Park Avenue for 18 years, Chetter says. But she worked and got to know people at other places since she moved to Memphis. “I came for a three-week holiday,” she says. “That was in 1992. I fell in love with the pub I worked in and the people.”

The pub was the old Kudzu’s. But Chetter didn’t stop there. “I got a job offer to go to Dan McGuinness Pub. I was there for about three years and then opened Celtic Crossing. And then came to Patrick’s.”

She loves her job. “I can be myself. I can chat with customers in my accent or my way of speaking and joke with them. Having the craic with them. That’s like having the fun with them.”

And, she adds, “It’s a great place to work. A lot of perks. Easy to work with. One of the easiest jobs I’ve had.”

People began calling her “Josie” about three years ago to avoid confusion with another employee. “We had a fellow in the back. His name was ‘Joe.’ I love ‘Josie.’ I wish I had been ‘Josie’ forever.”

Chetter suddenly interrupts the interview. “I need a potato salad,” she calls out. She then says to someone after a bit, “I went by the table and they didn’t have it.”

She resumes the interview. 

Chetter says she loves being able to act up with the customers. “I can be a fool. Like laughing and joking and be kind of crazy. A bit of everything.”

And, she says, “It’s more like you’re making a fool of yourself. Really laughing and joking and taking the piss out of people.”

Asked where she gets her energy, Chetter says, “I eat loads of peanut butter and raisins. I’ve always been very active. And it pays off when you’re busy running around taking care of tables, customers’ demands. I built up a tolerance.”

Chetter is also known for her wild-looking red hair. “I think it gives me a lot of personality,” she says, adding, “It’s very Irish. Amadain. That’s Irish for ‘crazy.’ It’s very unmanageable. Very untamed.’

Whether they’re first timers or regulars, Chetter makes people feel at home at Patrick’s. “I have a lot of customers who specifically ask for me. A lot of them wrote to me in Ireland asking me when I was coming back.”

Chetter was away for about four months. “Longest I have not worked in 40 years.”

“I just wanted to go for a holiday and get reacquainted with my family. I haven’t really been at home for a long time.”

She’s gone home for a  “quick holiday” on occasion, Chetter says. “To get a feel of what I left behind. I often regret not staying longer.

“I just got that again. I got that feeling of when I was younger and enjoying conversations with my family and sitting by the fire and going for walks. It was really healthy and good. Going down to the moors with the cows and calves looking at me like, ‘Who is this crazy redhead flying down the road?’ And being followed by the dogs and cats like the Irish Pied Piper.”

Her absence made customers a bit nervous, thinking she wasn’t going to return. “A lot of people kept texting me saying they missed me and couldn’t wait for me to come back. I was planning on coming back. I came back about the 16th of October.”

And people expressed their joy when Chetter returned to work. “Oh, my God. There was a banner from the owner’s wife welcoming me back. It was like the ‘prodigal daughter,’ really. I got a massive reception. Overwhelming.”

By the way, Chetter’s actual name is “Josephine.” But, she says, “The only time I was called ‘Josephine’ was at home when my mother was mad at me.”

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

FOOD NEWS BITES: The Return of Karen Carrier’s “Dō Sushi Pop-Up”

Kona Strawberry Roll. It’s what a foodie’s dreams are made of.

It’s a sushi roll I had for the first time at Karen Carrier’s Dō Sushi Pop-Up, which she held two years ago. I can still taste this sweet-and-savory (my favorite) amazing concoction. I haven’t had one since.

The pop-up was held in Carrier’s Bar DKDC, which is at 964 Cooper Street next to her Beauty Shop Restaurant in Cooper-Young. She originally opened the space as Dō Sushi, a Japanese restaurant, in 2003.

Well, Carrier is doing another Dō Sushi Pop-Up from 4:30 p.m. until they run out of food Thursday, November 14th, at Bar DKDC.

Karen Carrier (Photo: Courtesy Karen Carrier)

And, yes, they are going to include the Kona Strawberry Roll. It’s made of crab, masago, seared walu, strawberry, and a sweet soy reduction. “It’s so good,” Carrier says.

Sam Cicci, a former colleague, is also a fan of the roll. “Honestly, it’s probably one of the best rolls I’ve had,” he says. “I usually prefer a more savory roll, but the way the crab and walu play off that light layer of sweetness from fresh strawberry slices, it’s so easy to gobble the whole thing up immediately.”

The spicy seared scallop roll, another popular sushi roll that Carrier will bring back for the pop-up, is made of crab, avocado, masago, and sriracha aioli. “It’s got that wonderful, smoky grilled flavor.”

Seven sushi rolls will be a featured, as well as other items like nigiri and sashimi. They also will feature cooked items, including crispy duck spring rolls with shiitake mushrooms.

The Dō Sushi story is wonderfully quirky. “We opened Beauty Shop in 2002. And I had to take over the space next door,” Carrier says.

She turned that space into a general store, where they sold Vespas, Giraudon men’s and women’s Italian shoes from New York City, Amy Downs hats, Dinstuhl’s candies, assorted cheeses, coffees, refurbished bikes from the 1950s that were hung in the windows, and prepared food to-go from Carrier’s Another Roadside Attraction catering. “We were so ahead of our time. If it opened 10 years later we would have been packed.”

So, Carrier said, “I can’t do this. Retail is not for me. I need to have a bar.”.

Her chef, Eric Doran, said to her, ‘Why don’t we open a sushi bar? We don’t need a vent hood.’”

“I said, ‘Perfect.’”

That was in January 2003. Joining her were Mindy Son and Stacey Kiehl. Carrier and Doran came up with the ideas for the sushi and she and Kiehl made them. She hired Brett “Shaggy” Duffee to do the hot food, including all duck spring rolls, crispy dumplings, and all the tempura items. 

“The sashimis, the raw fish, that was sort of my part. The sushi part I stayed out of.”

Carrier also served her mother’s matzoh ball soup, “Bobo’s Chicken Matzoh Ball Soup,” which was named one of the 10 best phos in the United States by Bon Appetit magazine, Carrier says. The soup is made with lokshen kugel. “I grew up with that stuff.”

About 10 years later, Carrier’s thoughts about selling sushi changed after she saw sushi being sold at the Exxon service station at Ridgeway Road and Poplar Avenue. “I said, ‘Oh, no, no, no, no.’ I came back to work at the Beauty Shop and I said, ‘I’m losing the bar.’”

There was just something about sushi being sold at a gas station that didn’t sit well with Carrier.

So, instead of the sushi bar, Carrier said, “I want a music club.”

She turned Dō Sushi into Bar DKDC, which is now a popular music venue. The name is an acronym for “Don’t know. Don’t care,” which was Carrier’s response when people asked her what she was going to call her new music club.

As most people know, Carrier can come up with a new idea and implement it at the drop of a hat. “I get bored.”

Also an artist, Carrier says her restaurants are “just art projects. They’re just paintings.”

And, she adds, “You’ve got to stay on the edge. You’ve got to stay current.”

Asked why it took two years to do another Dō Sushi Pop-Up, Carrier says, “Life happens. It just dawned on me, ‘Oh, man. I want some sushi.’”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Amelia Gene’s Offers New Menu Items

Executive chef Nate Henssler is keeping Amelia Gene’s restaurant as fresh and innovative as the dishes on his menu.

Take the Derenburger cheeseburger, which Henssler added about a month ago to the menu at the restaurant at 255 South Front Street, adjacent to the Caption by Hyatt Beale Street Memphis hotel. The burger, named after their pastry chef Jessi Derenburger, is available only at the bar after 9 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. It fits in perfectly with Henssler’s concept for Amelia Gene’s, which he describes as “a modern American chef-driven restaurant.”

Henssler, who butchers the meat, uses the “chain,” a piece of meat on the side of the tenderloins used for their prime filet mignon. He also uses the trimmings from their short ribs.

Jessica Henssler, Nate’s wife as well as the restaurant’s general manager, suggested they do a bar burger. “Jessica actually had the idea of doing some kind of a secret bar menu item, to try and drive some business toward the end of the night.”

Since by 9 p.m. they “still get a good amount of bar traffic,” they wondered how to get guests “to enjoy some food while they’re here and utilize some product. So, we took the short ribs and this tenderloin and tinkered with it to make a blend.”

They also tinkered with different cheeses on their cheese cart, but decided to use American cheese on the cheeseburger. In addition to caramelized onions, they “dress the bun with a garlic mayonnaise, spicy pickled yellow peppers, and then it’s served with hand-cut fries.”

The fries are made in-house using twice-cooked potatoes.

Derenburger makes the sesame seed brioche hamburger buns for the cheeseburgers, which sell for $25. “It’s a 10-ounce burger, so it’s substantial.”

They’re not on the menu, so it’s up to the server and the bartender — as well as customers who’ve tried them — to spread the word about the hamburgers. “We make 10 on Friday and 10 on Saturday. And we’re selling out.”

Henssler is also changing his Thursday night five-course tasting menu almost weekly. “We started off in the summertime and it was vegetarian. And dishes changed every week. We started adding some proteins to the menu.”

The price for the Thursday night special has gone from $50 to $60, but, Nate says, “It’s still an incredible deal.”

For an additional $30, diners are served wine that pairs with each course.

“Sometimes the last course is a cocktail,” Henssler adds.

This week’s special will include Nate’s 30-layer lasagna, which includes layers of béchamel as well as Bolognese made with scraps from the tenderloins and short ribs. He probably will include monkfish, which recently was added to the menu and has been very popular.

As for the regular menu, Nate says part of it changes monthly. “We change at least one or two items. As you see a new menu go on, another menu item comes off.”

His Rohan duck dish is one item that hasn’t left the menu since Nate added it. “It’s still one of our four top sellers.”

The crispy duck dish, which Henssler calls “a play on duck à l’orange,” takes five days to produce. As he said in a 2023 Memphis Flyer interview, “The legs we cure in a salt and sugar mix with soy spices. And we cure that for a day, cooking it in its own fat. Confit.”

The dish includes butter, garlic, shallots, and Belgian endive. And, he says, “It’s served with the same sauce we make from the duck bones with orange puree and kumquats preserved in honey.”

On a slow night, they might sell four or five Rohan ducks, Nate says. On a Friday and Saturday night, 20. And, he adds, that dish takes about 45 minutes to prepare from when the order comes in until it gets to the table.

Amelia Gene’s closed for two weeks during a traditionally slow period last August to “save labor and give the staff a chance to have some time off. “I’ve been going seven days a week for a year and a half.”

He and his wife spent about two weeks in Chile on a trip that included Santiago and Patagonia. “We visited some wineries and ate some amazing food.”

And “for sure” he added some Chilean items to the Thursday night five-course menu after they returned, Nate says. Since its not king crab season, he’s waiting for his vendor to get some Chilean king crab. “They’re sourcing it for me right now.”

The Hensslers are currently talking about doing a “pastry cart takeover” of their cheese cart for the holiday season. Also, he says, “We’re getting a lot of requests for whole carrot cake and whole chocolate cakes.”

Since his wife came on as general manager last June, private and semi-private events at Amelia Gene’s are picking up, Nate says. “She is very good at what she does.”

As for a husband and wife working together, Nate says that type of relationship “works best when it’s all about communication. Like a marriage.”

And, he adds, “If something goes wrong, it’s usually my fault.”

Henssler, who grew up in New Hampshire, has worked at top restaurants in Las Vegas and Chicago. He moved to Memphis in 2022. He’s also a managing partner in the Carlisle Restaurant Group. 

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Hungry Memphis

FOOD NEWS BITES: A Toast to the New Science of Spirits

The upcoming Science of Spirits at Lichterman Nature Center sounds like an exploration into the world of the supernatural.

Well, it’s not. Halloween is over. These “spirits” are the drinkable kind.

The event, which will be held from 6 to 9 p.m. Friday, November 15th, is now part of a trio of events that includes Science of Beer and Science of Wine.

Just like the beer and wine events, guests will travel from station to station sampling bourbon, but, this time, they’ll learn about the science of making American whiskey.

Bourbons include Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon, 1792 Bourbon, Traveller Whiskey, Sazerac Rye, Benchmark Selects Casks  Single Barrel, Benchmark Select Casks Top Floor, Rich & Rare Reserve, and Buffalo Trace Bourbon Cream.

Food from Bain BBQ, Huey’s, and Graz’n will be available.

Mark Edgar Stuart will perform.

Guests must be 21 to attend. All proceeds will benefit the Museums of Science & History (MoSH) programming, summer camps, STEM workshops, and more. MoSH is the umbrella group that includes Lichterman Nature Center, Pink Palace Museum & Mansion, Mallory-Neely Historic Property, and Coon Creek Science Center.

Upcoming events include Science of Beer, which will be held January 17, 2025, at Pink Palace Museum & Mansion, and Science of Wine, which will be held in spring 2025 at Pink Palace.

For more information, go to moshmemphis.com.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Keith Clinton and Chez Philippe Make a Great Pair

It says something when a restaurant is named “Best Hotel Restaurant” twice.

It also says something when that restaurant’s chef held that title during both wins.

Chez Philippe at The Peabody was named “Best Hotel Restaurant” last September in USA Today’s annual 10 Best Travel Awards. And Keith Clinton was chef de cuisine both times the restaurant received the honor.

“This is the second year we’ve won in a row,” says Clinton, 36.

Asked how he felt when he heard the news, Clinton says, “It felt good and made me proud of my team and made me proud of our local growers we source from. We rely on that a lot to drive the script of our menus.”

And, he adds, “It’s kind of like music. They’re filling in all the chords and we are just playing them.”

According to the news release, “Chez Philippe is known for its modern American cuisine with classical French presentation and as one of the most romantic dining experiences in Memphis.”

It also points out Clinton’s “passion for incorporating local and seasonal ingredients into his culinary masterpieces.”

In a 2023 Memphis Flyer interview, Clinton told how he goes the extra mile for his diners — and not just with the food. Chez Philippe patrons are researched after they make their reservations. Using information from LinkedIn and other sources, Clinton likes to surprise his diners with information about themselves. Like telling them where they’re from, where they work, where they went to school. It’s a great way to personalize someone’s dining experience.

Recently, a woman dining at Chez Philippe told Clinton, “I’ve done my research on you.”

“And I said, ‘I’ve done my research on you, too,’” Clinton says. He already knew she was in the fashion and clothing business.

Clinton also uses information he gathers from servers, who overhear conversations during dinner. “Like they came here in 2019 or they were married at The Peabody 20 years ago. We know it’s their anniversary because they put that in their guest notes. Who they are and where they’re from.”

And servers are good about picking up bits and pieces of information. One server overheard a couple talking about how they got married at the old location of Felicia Suzanne’s Restaurant. Clinton asked them how long it’s been since they were at the restaurant. They said they hadn’t been since they were married. So Clinton hired a carriage ride for them to take after dinner. They got to drive past the venue where they were married. “People are just so blasé about what they are saying and don’t think people are listening.”

But last January Clinton added another twist to the Chez Philippe dining experience. He calls it the “Kitchen Course.”

About halfway or more through their meal, diners are invited to the kitchen. Their server says, “The chef has invited you to the kitchen to do a quick course with him.”

Opening snacks from a month ago — fig, apple, almond (Photo: Justin Fox Burks)

People think what goes on in a kitchen is a “magical process,” Clinton says. So when it’s time for the meal’s intermezzo, the diners, if they choose to, are escorted by the maître d’ to the kitchen where they eat the intermezzo, which might just be a one-or-two bite granita, and “hang out and chat for five or ten minutes.”

The maître d’ then escorts them back to their table. “It’s kind of a hybrid of a ‘chef’s table,’ where the guest is eating in there the whole time.”

Clinton’s kitchen course “makes it so exclusive” to one table. “They feel special because they were invited.”

As for his food, Clinton says, “I’m always pushing myself.”

Currently, Clinton offers a 14-course menu, which incudes “surprise canapés.”

And, he says, “We change one thing a week instead of doing a seasonal menu.”

Instead of changing all 14 items, the one item he does change usually depends on what is in season at the farms he uses for a particular food. Clinton is loyal to the growers. So whenever his grower runs out of the blackberries or whatever he buys from that particular producer, Clinton doesn’t try to find blackberries from somebody else. “When he’s done, I’m always done,” he says. “I’m exclusive to them.”

The only menu item that has not changed since Clinton began is tuna, pomelo, and avocado. “My favorite of all time.”

Wilson Farms Blueberry Semifreddo (Photo: Chris Coles)

If any of his diners want to turn the tables and do some research on Clinton, they might discover he’s from Memphis, went to Bartlett High School, and, when he was in his 20s, played drums in an indie band, The Incredible Hook.

“It was music first and then it became both and then it became all cooking.”

Clinton still has a piano at his house. “It’s a very old, but very nice, extremely heavy piano. We just moved and it was so heavy it broke their dolly.”

But he only plays it now “in a passing manner.”

His wife Meredith, who was the sous-chef for almost a year at Bog & Barley, now works at Ben E. Keith Foods, a food purveyor.

They both cook at home. “It’s kind of like whoever is off that day. I’m off; I will cook. She’s off; she will cook. And if we’re both off, we go out.”

He also takes off his chef’s hat — figuratively speaking — to make time for their son Carter, 8. It’s “difficult to turn it off,” but Clinton knows he “has to be a good father.”

They do everything from picking strawberries together to playing video games together. “So that helps motivate me to turn it off and on.” 

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

FOOD NEWS BITES: The Haunted Piano at Grawemeyer’s

People still remember the old Grawemeyer’s restaurant, where they enjoyed wiener schnitzel, apple strudel, and other German cuisine.

But how many of them remember the haunted piano that resided at the restaurant at 520 South Main Street?

I frequented Grawemeyer’s, but I never heard the piano, which isn’t a player piano, play by itself. But others have.

It’s also included in the “Haunted Rooms America” website and can be seen in the movie, Christmas at Graceland: Home for the Holidays on the Hallmark Channel.

Since pianos seem to be coming back to Memphis eating/drinking establishments, including Elwood’s Shack on Park Avenue and Zinnie’s on Madison Avenue, I asked Cynthia Grawemeyer to tell me the history of her haunted piano.

“I play the piano,” Grawemeyer says. “So, our daughter at the time, Leah, was probably 8 or 9 years old. She wanted a grand piano. That’s all she kept saying. I wanted one, too.”

Cynthia’s late husband, Mark Grawemeyer, kept looking for a good deal on a grand piano. “One day he found this piano for sale on Craigslist at such a great price.”

So, Cynthia and Mark drove to an apartment in Millington, where the piano was located. They were greeted by a man in his 30s. “This piano takes up the entire tiny little dining room. And the guy is chain smoking one cigarette after another. The whole place smelled like smoke. He was sweating and nervous and kept loosening his tie.”

Mark asked him, “Why are you selling it? You must be moving. You need to get rid of it?”

The owner told him he still had six months on his lease, but he was staying at a friend’s apartment. And he said, “I can’t stay in this apartment with this piano.”

Mark offered to give him a lot less than the man was asking for the piano. “The guy said, ‘I’ll sell it to you at that price if one, you pay me cash, and two, you keep the piano. You don’t sell it. Keep it for your daughter like you said because it’s a family heirloom.”

And, Cynthia says, “The guy said his mom lived in a house in Frayser and she was getting older. His family wanted her to be in a safer place.”

The man told them they were in the process of moving his mother to Knoxville, but she never made it. “She was killed on the piano.”

According to the story, three intruders broke into her home. “The mother’s boyfriend was there. He shot one of the intruders, but they shot her and then him. I think he may have been surprised. But she got blood on the piano. So, then he felt like the piano was haunted.

“He said this piano was her prized possession and she had gotten it from her parents as her 16th birthday present. It’s an old Hamilton Baldwin piano. An old stage piano that they said could have come out of Chicago.”

The Grawemeyers took the piano anyway. “Mark thought he had found a deal.”

Then things began happening. And, Cynthia says, “I’m not ordinarily a ghosty person.”

She was playing the piano one winter afternoon while Mark was at work. “The dog was laying up under the piano and I’m in this big room and there’s nothing but me playing classical music and that dog.”

Then she suddenly felt something. “You know when you’re in a house and it’s wintertime and you’ll open the window and you get the suction feeling when you let the air in?”

That’s what she felt. “The dog stood up under the piano and his hair stood on top of his head and he was growling.”

Cynthia thought Mark had let himself in the house, which made air rush in. She called to him, but he didn’t answer. She got up and checked the door, but she discovered the deadbolt was still fastened on the inside. “I remember I had locked the door from the inside.”

About a week later, Cynthia was asleep in bed and Mark was in another room. When he returned to the bedroom, he said, “Wow, what was that beautiful piece you were playing?”

Cynthia asked him what he was talking about? She told him she didn’t get up and play the piano. He said, “You didn’t get up and play the piano and go back to sleep? I swear I heard the piano playing.”

The Grawmeyers later moved the piano to their restaurant, Grawemeyer’s. But, apparently, that didn’t stop the piano from doing its thing. A man they knew told him he was entertaining friends by taking them to different downtown restaurants. They walked past Grawemeyer’s after it closed. “He swears he heard the piano playing by itself from the inside.”

He wasn’t the only one with a similar story. “Tenants who lived in my building or next door called me and said, ‘That radio got left on at the restaurant.’ They could hear the piano playing. But nobody would be there.”

Darryl Taylor, who worked at the restaurant and now works at the Grawemeyer home, heard the piano play by itself when he was at the restaurant. He asked Mark who was playing it. “He said it was the ghost piano,” Taylor says.

But Taylor also heard the piano play by itself play at Cynthia’s house. He thought it was the Grawemeyer’s daughter, Emily Alagic. But Emily told him she thought she was hearing him play it. 

And, Taylor says, “They didn’t just play a note. They played a nice long tune.”

So, why doesn’t Grawemeyer sell her haunted piano?  “I wouldn’t mind getting rid of it,” she says. “I actually have a nicer one that I play. It has so much history and story I’d feel bad getting rid of it. I’m assuming one day Leah will put it in her house in Texas. She’s in Fort Worth.”

Post script: “A new player piano sits where my piano sat at South Main Sushi,” Cynthia says.

That’s the restaurant that occupies the space at the old Grawemeyer’s. Cynthia still owns the building. But the “player” on that piano is mechanical. Not metaphysical.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Monique Williams Opens New Biscuits & Jams Location Downtown

Dinner — as well as breakfast, lunch, and brunch — is now being served at the new Downtown location of Biscuits & Jams at 24 B.B. King Boulevard, adjacent to Hotel Indigo.

The restaurant, which provides food services for the hotel and the public, recently held its grand opening.

Williams, who also owns Biscuits & Jams at 5806 Stage Road in Bartlett, Tennessee, says the new location has “a little more city vibe” since it’s in a Downtown hotel. “A certain type of upscale-ness you would think of a restaurant that’s attached to a hotel,” she says.

The Juke Speakeasy at Biscuits & Jams, which features a bar, food, and live music for people 25 years and older, is downstairs, where the iconic Memphis Sounds night spot used to be located. “I had been there in the past when it was Memphis Sounds. Very nostalgic. I thought we could do our own little take on that space.”

The new Biscuits & Jams location doesn’t have the same feel as the Bartlett location, which is “like walking into grandma’s house. A lot more cozy.”

But both places have her grandmother’s vibe, Williams says.

Her grandmother, the late Laura Stepter, was the inspiration for Biscuits & Jams as well as The Juke, she says. “You get two sides of Laura in here.” 

“My grandmother worked for Memphis City Schools. She did all types of different cakes, pies, and breads. She cooked for so many people. She made biscuits every day. Homemade biscuits. This is like a love story to her.”

Server China Crump

Biscuits & Jams upstairs is bright and airy, with light coming through the windows and an open kitchen where diners can see cooks “moving and grooving.” 

The decor is in green, gold, and tan. “Those earthy tones.”

Williams also includes pictures of different musicians hanging on the wall. “We serve biscuits and jam and preserves and ‘jams’ music.”

“Downstairs is all inspired by my grandmother in her younger days. She was a ‘preacher’s kid.’”

Her grandmother’s father was a minister in Indianola, Mississippi, in Sunflower County, but that didn’t stop Stepter from following her own path, Williams says. “In her younger days, she made moonshine.”

Stepter made brandy from the peach skins she collected after making her peach preserves. Williams says her cousin, who is a Biscuits & Jams co-owner, remembers how her Uncle Hoover got “deathly ill” and “almost died from getting into the moonshine our grandmother made.”

“Moonshine light fixtures,” which resemble Mason jars people used as moonshine containers, hang from the ceiling. The doors look like barn doors, tin is used on the front of the long bar, and the tabletops and chairs are made of rustic, distressed wood. “We wanted you to make believe you stepped into a juke joint. It has that kind of look to it.”

Performers Steve Bethany and Gerald Richardson

The Juke Boom Boom Room is a small, private, eclectic room off the side with a TV and comfortable chairs where guests can just relax.

The Juke Speakeasy at Biscuits & Jams features “moonshine-infused beverages,” Williams says. “Our signature cocktail drinks are made from moonshine.”

For now, items on the upstairs menu at the Downtown Biscuits & Jams are identical to those on the Bartlett restaurant’s menu. They include “a lot of the signature items that people have grown to love from the Bartlett location. But we will be introducing some different dishes with a certain amount of flair to them. A lot more Cajun, Creole dishes.” 

In other words, “Some delicious updates to the menu and more, with very intricate culinary items that I think people will love.”

Signature items include shrimp and crawfish Benedict, shrimp and grits, gumbo, and hamburgers.

And, on the upcoming dinner menu, Williams says, “You’ll see some alligator.”

An Alligator Corn Dog will be one of them. “It’s actually alligator that I marinated and I cooked. We batter it and fry it.”

They’re served on a stick with “different mustards. Cajun mustard and all that. And regular table mustard.”

Another upcoming dinner item will be Seafood Monica, which is made with a buttery Chardonnay, rotini noodles, shallots, cream sauce, and “other goodness.”

Williams also is planning to add catfish and grits with crawfish gravy, which has been a popular special at the Bartlett location.

A new brunch item is Lemon Ricotta Pancakes, which are thin, light, and similar to crepes. They’re served with blueberry syrup.

In addition to ordering food from the upstairs menu, customers can order from The Juke menu at night. Items include cheese charcuterie trays, crab cakes, truffle fries, and crab and crawfish bisque.

Her Bourbon Beef Sliders come with onion jam, arugula, and bourbon barbecue sauce, Williams says.

The Juke menu items, which also can be ordered upstairs at Biscuits & Jams, include cheese charcuterie trays, crab cakes, truffle fries, and crab and crawfish bisque.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

FOOD NEWS BITES: Put More Rendezvous In Your Pantry

I love everything I’ve ever eaten at the Rendezvous. Whether it’s the ribs, the beans, or that unique slaw, you know it when you taste something from the Rendezvous. Their food has that distinctive Rendezvous taste. 

And, when you leave Rendezvous, people around you know where you’ve just eaten because your clothes smell like the Rendezvous.

You can now buy more Rendezvous products, in addition to the restaurant’s signature sauce and rub. According to a news release, Rendezvous Marinade is “the original recipe to baste and flavor our world-famous ribs,” and Greek Seasoning is “Our medley of spices from our Greek heritage.” In addition, Nick’s Salt & Pepper Blend, “a perfect portioned salt-and-pepper mix,” is in production and is slated to be available in stores or online in the coming months.

Items already available include: Famous Rendezvous Seasoning; Original Rendezvous Sauce; Hot Rendezvous Sauce; Charlie’s Select Sauce; and Tigertail Rendezvous Sweet Glazed Mustard.

The new items are “not anything we hadn’t had for years and years,” says John Vergos, one of the restaurant’s owners. “But we just decided to produce it for public consumption. Put our baste in a bottle, and our Greek seasoning and our different seasonings and our Nick’s salt and pepper in a jar, ‘cause it’s really good stuff.”

Vergos describes the salt-and-pepper concoction, which is from the recipe of his brother, the late Nick Vergos, as “really good salt and really good pepper.” And Nick “did some things to it.” But John isn’t going to divulge any more information.

“We’ve never decided to franchise, but we’re still capitalists over here,” Vergos says. “And we like to grow. And we realize we’ve got these wonderful products that people have enjoyed. We let people take some home, call us back and say they’re wonderful.”

Veergos says they’re working on putting out their mother’s Greek salad dressing to the public. Asked to describe the dressing made by their mother, the late Tasia Vergos, John says, “Well, it’s like your good olive oil and vinegar. And, of course, some oregano in it. Salt, pepper, garlic, a few other items. I won’t disclose the whole thing.”

The restaurant began bottling the seasoning in the late ‘80s and then the sauce. “That’s pretty much been it,” says Vergos. “But we’ve always let people take home some of our basics. Nick used to give people his salt and pepper for Christmas presents. We ship this stuff all over the country.”

I asked John to describe that unique Rendezvous barbecue sauce. “It’s not heavy and gooey. And you can taste the mustard and the vinegar in it. It’s good but not overpowering to the meat.” As for the seasoning, he says, “People put it on everything from deviled eggs to a dash in a Bloody Mary.”

The Rendezvous rub is “what started people making dry rubs,” John says. And that’s thanks to his dad, the late Charlie Vergos, who founded the Rendezvous. “My dad was the first.” People put salt and pepper on meat they were going to barbecue, Vergos says, but not dry rubs like his dad made. “I don’t think you have a well-stocked cupboard unless you have some Louisiana hot sauce and some Rendezvous seasoning in it.”

Rendezvous products are available at several locations, including Kroger and Novel. bookstore, and online at hogsfly.com.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

FOOD NEWS BITES: Pete & Sam’s Doing Something New

For the first time in its 76-year history, Pete & Sam’s restaurant is running specials, says co-owner Sammy Bomarito.

“We’ve been running weekly specials for about three months,” Bomarito says. “We just did the specials as something to change up, give customers something new. Things we like and things we thought would sell well and people would really enjoy.”

They run the special every two weeks from Monday through Thursday. This week’s special is Tuscan Chicken, which is described on the restaurant’s Facebook page as “pan-seared breaded chicken with a rich white cream sauce, topped with sun-dried tomatoes and onions, all served over capellini.”

Sammy Bomarito with the Tuscan Chicken special (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Dolcetto Nocciola, the dessert that comes with it, is a “delightful hazelnut cream treat drizzled with caramel sauce.”

Apparently, Tuscan Chicken can be stretched. Dena Nance, The Woman’s Exchange executive director, says, “I brought some home. I got a to-go order and ate all of the chicken out of it the first night. The second night I put all the sauce over rice. It was amazing. I just love it with the sun-dried tomatoes. They don’t do a lot of sun-dried tomatoes in a lot of their dishes.”

Previous dishes include Blue Cheese Gnocchi and Chicken Piccata, which they describe on their post as “pan-seared chicken served with a delicious white wine, capers, and lemon sauce.” 

Tuscan Chicken special (Photo: Michael Donahue)
Dolcetto Nocciola at Pete & Sam’s (Photo: Michael Donahue)

“When they started doing these specials, they started out with a ribs and spaghetti special,” Bomarito says.

And that was a good tie-in for the restaurants’s social media “about Big Sam having The Rib Palace,” he adds.

I had no idea “Big Sam,” the late Sam Bomarito, and the “Sam” in Pete & Sam’s ever owned a barbecue restaurant. In addition to Pete & Sam’s, he owned The Rib Palace on Park Avenue across the street from Pete & Sam’s. They sold “barbecue and ribs and smoked bologna — all that you’d expect,” says Sammy, who, along with his brother and co-owner Michael Bomarito, is Sam’s son.

If someone at The Rib Palace, which closed in the early 1980s, wanted spaghetti, someone from the restaurant would go across the street and get some from Pete & Sam’s — vice versa if somebody at Pete & Sam’s wanted ribs. “They’d go get ribs and bring it back to The Rib Palace.”

Pete & Sam’s already has the list compiled of the specials they will be doing for the rest of the year. The Bomarito brothers and assistant manager JD Sloyan create the specials.

Next week’s special, which begins October 28th, will be grilled bone-in pork chop.

Upcoming specials include spare ribs osso buco, sun-dried tomato and sausage ravioli, chicken pot pie, and lobster ravioli.

Prices vary, but entrées run from about $20 to $24. You can also turn the special into a dinner for an additional price. I ordered the Italian salad (plus anchovies) and a baked potato with butter along with the Tuscan Chicken. And it was a feast.

So, if a particular special is extremely popular, could it be added to the permanent menu? That’s a “yes,” Sammy says.

Pete & Sam’s restaurant (Photo: Michael Donahue)