Category: Hungry Memphis

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Hungry Memphis

FOOD NEWS BITES: “Tres Amigos” at Elwood’s Shack

Tim Bednarksi with "The Three Amigos" at his restaurant, Elwood's Shack (Credit: Michael Donahue)

This recent post from Elwood’s Shack owner Tim Bednarksi caught my eye. Or caught my taste buds: “Of all the  subs, pastas, Q’s, specials I ever created, this dish has every ounce of food love I have. It took me two days, back-to-back 11-hour days to create this special of mine. It will be available at both Elwood’s locations all week. Every ingredient, side, sauce, and tamale is one of a kind. Tres Amigos!”

So I had to rush over to the Elwood’s Shack location at 4523 Summer Avenue to try the “Tres Amigos.”

I did. And it’s incredible. So delicious, and different. It’s also available at Elwood’s Shack Park Ave. at 4040 Park Avenue.

It’s called “Tres Amigos,” says Bednarksi, who sat down to talk about the dish a bit. “It’s a pork tamale, a beef tamale, and a chicken tamale, but they’ve all got different sauces on them. Mole’s on the pork tamale, chile ancho is on the beef tamale, and tomatillo salsa is on the chicken tamale.”

The tamales are served with rice and beans. “And even the rice and the beans are super special,” he says. “The red beans and rice that I served at Shells is actually the main component in the beans.”

Tres Amigos at Elwood’s Shack (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Elwood’s Shells was Bednarksi’s Cooper-Young restaurant that closed in 2019.

And, yes, Three Amigos takes a while to make, Bednarski tells me. “It took me 30 hours to make 70 orders. I have 35 orders in each restaurant today. But every ingredient, every sauce, and every tamale, is hand made, and they’ve got really special ingredients. Like the mole has chocolate, peanuts, raisins, chile ancho, chile guajillo, chile de arbol in it. And it takes many hours to make each component. 

“I take the mole sauce and actually mix it in with our smoked barbecue pork, and I hand-roll tamales and make them the traditional way. It’s a different tamale. It’s more what you would see in the Southwest, an Arizona and California kind of thing.”

This isn’t a new item for Bednarski. “I’ve been serving it for years, but I haven’t done it in four years because it’s so labor-intensive. I could never justify, with one restaurant, hiring somebody to make tamales for one dish. But now I’m hoping with two restaurants, I’m able — if it’s as successful as it has been in the past — to afford to hire somebody to do it full-time.”

Speaking of Shells, Bednarski might revive some of the items from that restaurant. “I hope to bring back chicken and sausage gumbo, my seafood gumbo, and serve that at Park Avenue.”

And his lobster bisque. “I get numerous requests for my lobster bisque.”

More Elwood’s

Elliot Tracey at Elwood’s Shack (Credit: Michael Donahue)

While I was waiting for Tim Bednarksi to arrive at the Elwood’s Shack on Summer, I overheard Elliot Tracey from North Carolina praising the barbecue he just ate. I had to ask him to elaborate.

Tracey, 34, tells me he stopped in Memphis on his way to visit the Grand Canyon for the first time. 

“I had the pulled pork with a side of a half-rack of ribs,” he says. “I had the baked beans, potato salad, and Texas toast.

“Honestly, I lived in North Carolina my whole life. I’ve had barbecue in all different places in eastern North Carolina. And stopping here today just from a Google review, it was the best barbecue I’ve ever had,” he adds. “Everything down to the Texas toast was perfect. There’s no reason to go anywhere else, in my opinion. You know, if I lived here there would be no competition between here and anywhere else.”

What sets Elwood’s barbecue apart? “Just flavor,” Tracey says. “Sometimes back home it can get a little dry; a lack of flavor, lack of seasoning. We pride ourselves in the vinegar base, but it kind of falls short sometimes.”

With Elwood’s Shack barbecue, Tracey “found a combination between rub and sauce. So the dry seasoning combined with the red sauce was just endless flavor.”

“Melon Drink” at El Gallo Giro

Jack Simon at El Gallo Giro (Credit: Michael Donahue)

My friend, entrepreneur Jack Simon, raves about the “Melon Drink” at El Gallo Giro at 3991 Lamar Avenue.

“It’s the most refreshing, delicious drink in the universe,” says Simon, who believes he discovered the drink when he was attending University of Memphis.

So we headed to the restaurant and ordered them with delicious barbacoa tacos for lunch.

The Melon Drink was delicious, too. Our server, Rosie Herrera, told us the name is “Agua de Melon” in Spanish. It’s cantaloupe, sugar, and seeds blended together. Ours were served over ice. On a chilly day, this drink put me back a couple of months to something I’d drink on a hot day. It evokes summer.

I love this place. I can’t wait to get back. For one thing, it’s beautiful with all the colorful painted furniture, tables, chairs, and booths.

Stay tuned. 

El Gallo Giro (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Barbacoa tacos at El Gallo Giro (Credit: Michael Donahue)
El Gallo Giro (Credit: Michael Donahue)
FOOD NEWS BITES
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Hungry Memphis

Kellie’s Deli is “Very Memphis”

Kellie's Deli features a jam-packed menu (Credit: Ashley Barksdale)

Kellie’s Deli, is slated to open Monday, October 7th, at 516 Tennessee Street, Suite 127.

“It’s going to be a full-service deli,” says owner Kellie Barksdale. “We have seating — 36 seats inside, about 12 seats outside.”

Barksdale says she knows what people like. “It’s the South, so I’ve got to have some ‘tater salad,” she says. In addition, she says she’s got everything from “brown sugar spicy bacon” to loaded potato soup.

It’s a big menu: “I have Cajun turkey, ham, chicken, bologna,” she says. “We have pepperoni, salami, and barbecue chicken that I’m making.” Barksdale says she’ll also serve a Cuban pork tenderloin sandwich, Greek, chicken, and veggie heroes, Italian subs, meatball subs with house-made meatballs, and a spicy “kickin’ chicken” sandwich. Appetizers include barbecue nachos and cheese and sausage trays.

Barksdale, who is from Arkansas and now lives downtown, has been in the food business for 40 years. “I had not had a restaurant before,” she says, “only fast food training. I worked for Burger King for 20 plus years.” She also worked for Arby’s for seven years. “I know the food business in and out,” she says.

Jessie Alls, Kellie Barksdale, Ashley Barksdale at Kellie’s Deli (Credit: Ashley Barksdale)

Her daughter, Ashley Barksdale, and her brother, Jessie Alls, will be helping her out.They’ve revamped the space, which used to be a grocery store. The walls have been painted green to go with the green decor that was already there, Barksdale says. “We just leaned into the green.”

The wall hangings for Kellie’s Deli are already in place. “B.B. King is up. Elvis is up. We even have Libertyland, Grizzlies, 901, all of those things,” she says. “It’s very Memphis.”

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Mahogany River Terrace Opens on the River October 2nd

Mahogany River Terrace opens October 2nd on the Mississippi River (Credit: Isaac Singleton)

Remember those days when you dined at the River Terrace on Mud Island, with the view of the Mississippi River and the sunsets? Remember how you felt?

Well, you can feel that way again when Mahogany River Terrace opens October 2nd at 280 Island Drive,  the space once occupied by the River Terrace.

Owner Carlee McCullough, who also owns Mahogany Memphis restaurant at 3092 Poplar Avenue Number 11, describes the downtown location as “elegant dining.”

“I think it’s elegant, modern, and it really gives Memphis something to be proud of.”

Describing the food, McCullough, a native Memphian, says, “We are upscale Southern, with a dash of Creole, and with an emphasis on seafood at this location.”

McCullough adds that they will be “playing off the river” at the downtown location. The lunch menu will feature a soft-shell crab slider and a crab Caesar salad. “For dinner,” she says, “we’ll have everything from a ribeye to a tomahawk. We’ve got alligator bites, alligator pasta, flatbread, but we also have our signature dishes from Mahogany Memphis, which would be our oxtails, our grits, our Cajun egg rolls, and our most popular item, beignets.”

“We do some great vegetarian dishes,” McCollough adds, including vegan pastas, barbecue, and even a vegan catfish. Future plans include opening a restaurant called Mahogany Vegan Plus.

Asked how she happened to open at the old River Terrace spot, McCullough says Carol Coletta, former president and CEO of Memphis River Parks Partnership, came by Mahogany Memphis. “She was there for an event someone had hosted. We just really started chit-chatting about that place. It was empty for quite some time. We had an interest, and it kind of became a good situation for both parties.

“It required a lot of work,” McCullough says. “No one had been in it for quite some time. Pre-Covid, actually. The front windows had to be redone. The roof had to be redone. It was really in a state of disrepair.”

McCullough brought in designer Bonnie Yates, owner of Mackiona. “Everything was beige and brown,” she says. “It’s hard to work with concrete. That’s where the challenge came in.”

“I wanted to set a mood with the river and the light coming into the room,” says Yates. “I wanted to bring the light inside. I used a lot of gold because I think gold is so rich. And I wanted to bring a dark element because I wanted it to be moody upstairs where it’s more romantic, and bring in some of the greenery to coordinate with the river.”

“It’s beautiful in the evening with the sunsets,” Yates says, adding, “It’s the best view in the city, because you have both bridges at night.”

Mahogany River Terrace (Credit: Isaac Singleton)
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Hungry Memphis

Non-Vintage Opening in Old Maximo’s on Broad Space

Non-Vintage, a wine bar, to open in October

If you’re still pining away for Maximo’s on Broad, which closed last June, get ready for Non-Vintage, a new wine bar from Maximo’s owners Amy and Julio Zuniga. It’s slated to open the second week of October at the same address — 2617 Broad Avenue  — where Maximo’s was located.

The vibe will be “relaxed” and “chill,” Amy says. “With the focus on wine. We still have a full bar — liquor — as well.”

The decor is different, Amy says. “We have remodeled it. It’s entirely different in here. We have carpet here. It’s nice and quiet.”

And, she says, “The walls are muted blue tones. Blue and gray and green.”

“For a long time I’ve wanted to o pen a wine bar. And when we closed Maximo’s we still had the lease here.”

So, things “fell into place and made sense.”

A wine bar is “where you go and get to try all kinds of different wines you might not be aware of and not heard of,” she says.

Food will include tapas and cheese and meat charcuterie boards. “Just kind of a more relaxed outing than you’d get at a bar and not as big a deal as going to a restaurant. Just more casual.”

She doesn’t want to give too much away about the menu, but, she says they will serve crab cakes and wild arugula salad.

And, “We will serve the Brussels sprouts we had at Maximo’s. Everybody loves those. It’s a winner.”

One of the reasons they closed Maximo’s, Amy said in an interview last June, was they had trouble keeping staff for some time. They hire one person and then they quit and they have to hire another one.

“The staffing issue was the kitchen. So, with this being a more simple menu, it will just be easier to handle.”

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B. Michael Patrick Opening New Restaurant

B. Michael Patrick (Courtesy: B. Michael Patrick)

B. Michael Patrick, a popular Memphis chef, will open his new restaurant, Magnolia Bend Grill, at the site of the old Bonne Terre in Nesbit, Mississippi. He’s slated to open the restaurant, which was previously BT Prime Steakhouse, on September 23rd.

Patrick was chef/owner of Rizzo’s Diner, a popular South Main eatery that he closed in March 2022. Rizzo then went to work as executive chef/partner at The Capital Grille.

“BT Prime, the old restaurant, was a steakhouse,” says Patrick, who plans to continue to selling steaks. But, he says, “It’s going to be that elevated comfort food I’ve always done.”

Asked why he wanted to open another restaurant, Patrick says, “I moved to Southaven last year.” And, he adds, “I want to be a part of the community again.”

Site of upcoming Magnolia Bend Grill in Nesbit, Mississippi (Credit: Courtesy of B. Michael Patrick)
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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Sushi Jimmi Opens Poke Paradise Restaurant

May and Jimmy “Sushi Jimmi” Sinh at their new restaurant, Poke Paradise. (Photo: Michael Donahue)

 Jimmy “Sushi Jimmi” Sinh is back with a new restaurant, Poke Paradise, which he owns with his wife May.

The restaurant at 6343 Summer Avenue, Number 110, the former site of Izzy & Adam’s pizza restaurant, opened August 20th.

He will be selling poke bowls, including “Spicy Kimchi Taco,” “Fire Salmon,” “Rainbow,” and “Spicy Ninja.”

Poke, which originally is from Hawaii, was created by fishermen, Sinh says. The dish is made from raw fish, usually tuna and salmon, but other fish can be used as well. Then soy and sesame sauce and “other goodies like seaweed” are added, he says.

Sinh is including his famous sushi rolls, including the special rolls and traditional rolls. The menu also includes sushi burritos, sashimi, nigiri, and a range of appetizers and entrees.

“We brought back fried rice,” Sinh says. “We have Japanese cold noodles. And we have a few more things we’re going to add on once I have enough staff trained. We’ll run some specials on the weekends; depending on what the season is, we’ll match the season we’re in.”

Sinh owned the popular Sushi Jimmi Asian Fusion restaurant at 2895 Poplar Avenue. He closed that restaurant on May 23rd, 2019.

As to why he wanted to open a new restaurant, Sinh says, “I’ve been doing really well with Poke Paradise [food truck] for the past four years, and we’ve done a lot of catering and a lot of private dinners.”

But, he says, “What made us want this restaurant is, it’s more consistent for the customers to enjoy. We’re open all day long and they can walk in anytime they want to order anything they like on the normal menu.”

And people can now find him at one spot. “Instead of trying to follow me around town on the food truck or keep up with my schedule at the shop.”

“It has the perfect amount of space I needed,” he adds. “It’s not too big where I can’t manage it.”

There are “just enough tables” for customers to sit down and enjoy his food, Sinh says.

And he doesn’t need as much staff, but, he says, “I still need a good staff to run the place for me. Starting September is when I’ll get back to being on the road doing my catering and private dinners.”

Customers can still see him at his restaurant, but “a lot of the weekends I will be gone because every year there are the same customers who book me for catering and private dinners.”

His takeout shop at 5310 Crestview Road is now closed. “As for right now, the food truck is not operating because I want to get this restaurant up and going before we even talk about the food truck.”

Poke Paradise “is not a brand-new business. It’s just transitioned to a restaurant. And now that it’s a restaurant, customers can enjoy it more. And they can come in and see me during the weekdays.”

But Sinh might not get out of the kitchen that quickly to greet his fans. “I’m always in the back cooking. And that’s what I have always loved doing.”

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

New Wing Order Closing

Irfan Sattar tries a hot wing at the Southern Hot Wing Festival. (Photo: Michael Donahue)

New Wing Order, a Best Food Truck winner in Memphis Flyer’s Best of Memphis, posted on X (formerly Twitter) that it’s closing.

According to the post, “It’s been a great ride Memphis, but we’ve made the tough decision to close. We love y’all and appreciate the support you’ve shown us these past six years. It’s been a privilege to share our culinary creations with you and develop some great friendships along the way.”

New Wing Order owner/operator Jesse McDonald posted the history of the food truck on Facebook. He says he decided to start a food truck 10 years ago. The concept was “Award-Winning Hot Wings.”

The food truck opened six years ago. But, McDonald writes, “Costs have risen so much in the last couple years and lately we’ve run into some unexpected expenses. Unfortunately, we are at a crossroads and I’m having to make another really hard decision. I’m sorry to say, we have to shut down the food truck.”

New Wing Order founders Cole Forrest and Jesse McDonald with their wives Beth Forrest and Cindy McDonald. (Photo: Michael Donahue)

However, he adds, “While this is a goodbye for now, I really hope it’s just a break. I still have dreams for New Wing Order and I hope I can bring it back in some kind of capacity some day. In the meantime, soon you’ll still be able to come eat food that I cook so stay tuned y’all. I’m not done yet.”

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Sights and Sounds of the Memphis Asian Night Market 2024

Dragons dance at the 2024 Asian Night Market at Tiger Lane. (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Last Saturday, July 20th, the 2024 Asian Night Market attracted thousands to Tiger Lane. The second annual event was moved from the Crosstown Concourse, where it was held last year, since the crowds were so much bigger than anticipated. It was a good move because this year’s event was absolutely huge.

I was there with my trusty iPhone camera rig to capture the sights and sounds of the sprawling street fair, which brought together the Asian American communities from all over the tri-state area. I wish could have captured the smells, too! Food cooking in dozens of tents, and spices from all over the world, made this little corner of Midtown an olfactory heaven for one glorious evening. Despite the occasional logistical snafus incurred by any rapidly growing public event, a good time was had by all. Take a look.

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Hungry Memphis

Craft Food and Wine Festival Returns

Guests sample food and drink at the 2023 Craft Food & Wine Festival. (Credit: Alison Stukenborg)

Foodies (and others) alert: the 5th annual Craft Food and Wine Festival benefiting Church Health is Sunday,  June 23rd.

The annual festival will be held between 3 and 7 p.m. at The Columns at One Commerce Square. More than 20 food-related businesses, including JEM restaurant, Zio Matto Gelato, Biscuits and Jams, and Comeback Coffee, will be featured.

Event organizer Cristina McCarter, owner of Feast & Graze (which also will be included), says the event is special because it “embodies the entire food industry, from the food makers to the chefs.”

According to the news release, “The all-inclusive event showcases local foodpreneurs and chefs who provide handcrafted dishes for hundreds of guests to enjoy. The indoor event is … packed with delicious bites and paired with high-quality tastings of wine, cocktails, and local brews, live music, and entertainment.”

There also will be a VIP Lounge. “Chef Kevin Sullivan of Kitchen Laurel will provide a beautiful grazing table for VIP guests … while they sip exclusive wines and spirits.”

And, according to the release, “Guests will have an opportunity to connect with their local food makers and purchase their favorite food samples.

“VIP will have an all-access pass with early entry at 3 p.m. followed by the general tasting at 4 p.m. Tickets are on sale now. Admission includes a small tasting tray and wine glass.”

Tickets may be purchased at citytastingexperiences.com. The CFWF10 discount code can be used for $10 off the ticket price.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Maximo’s to Close

Photo: Courtesy Marco's via Facebook

Maximo’s on Broad is closing June 29th.

“There’s not enough business to sustain us,” says Amy Zuniga, who owns the restaurant at 2617 Broad Avenue with her husband, Julio. “And we’ve been short staffed and can’t find anyone. We can’t keep going, unfortunately.”

They’ve had trouble keeping staff for some time. They hire one person and then they quit and they have to hire another one, she says. “We can’t pay what corporate jobs pay, so they go to corporate jobs.

“We’ve been trying to hang in there for awhile, but it’s just gotten to this point where there’s only so much hanging on we can do.”

But, she adds, “We’d love people to come visit one last time. And people who’ve never been here, they should come check us out.”

A letter sent to their regulars states: “With our deepest gratitude, we want to thank you for all the support you’ve given us over the years. We could not have made it this long without your continued support. As the saying goes, ‘All good things must come to an end.’ We have sadly made the decision to close at the end of this month. Our last day of business will be June 29th. We would love to see you one last time before we go. Cheers!

“Sincerely, Amy and Julio Zuniga, and staff.”