Category: Hungry Memphis

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Edge Alley: It’s Time to Close

Tim Barker and his Edge Alley restaurant (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Tim Barker no longer “lives” on the Edge.

Edge Alley, that is.

Barker closed his restaurant, Edge Alley at 600 Monroe Avenue, on December 10th. 

“I decided not to renew the lease for a number of reasons,” says Barker, 43.

Number one? “I feel it had started to become unsustainable.”

Describing the comfortable Edge District restaurant he opened about seven years ago, Barker says, “Fresh, light, full service. We use the best ingredients we can get our hands on. And those ingredients have gotten to be cost prohibitive. 

“With the cost of goods and overhead, labor, I’d have to charge so much for lunch that we wouldn’t be viable for most people.”

Closing Edge Alley “makes the most sense. I don’t want to lower the quality of the product, change our service standard, cut staff. Now is kind of the time for me. Also, my lease is up. So, everything all at once. Rising costs, lease is up, and then maybe the concept has run its course.

“I don’t want to lower our standards and I don’t want to start using products that aren’t up to our standards. I’d rather close now while we’re at the top, on top of our game. The restaurant was doing really well. Everyone who worked here was really happy. A really good team.”

Barker has been trying to place all of his employees. “Most of them have already landed something.”

Describing Edge Alley, Barker says, “I’d say that we were upscale lunch and brunch with a focus on quality and consistency.”

They served “New American” or “influenced American food” — “Things that you are familiar with, but prepared in a slightly different way.”

For example, he says, “My shrimp and grits is different because it’s more of a French twist on an American classic.” 

They offered a “robust selection” on their menu. They baked their own bread and even made their own crackers. “Everything was made from fresh ingredients. I always say it takes a lot of work to make things seem so effortless. A lot of work goes into these things behind the scenes. So, the guests only experience what’s on the plate.

“I just don’t want things to slip because of rising costs. I think the guests would notice if I started changing the quality of product or level of service. It just doesn’t make sense to sign another three-year term.”

Closing the restaurant wasn’t a sudden decision. “I’ve been considering it for a while. I’ve been weighing my options. I honestly feel like there’s no path forward without making different changes to the product quality.

“Outwardly, it seems crazy and fast, but inwardly, this has been a decision that was long in the making. Not something I took lightly or easily, but I’m confident it’s the right decision. For the business itself and for the staff.

“We had a meeting. I explained to them and they all understood why I was closing. We were open for a week so that everybody could say ‘bye to our regulars. We have so many people that loved and appreciated this restaurant, and the support has been tremendous.”

They had a great final week, Baker says. “Sunday, at the end of shift, we all had a toast. We all had a glass of champagne and celebrated our time together.

“I believe in this neighborhood and I believe in this city. And I believe in the restaurant industry.”

Baker plans to return to consulting and design, which he did before he opened Edge Alley.

Will he open another restaurant at some point? “I’m not ruling it out. I also have friends that are going to open places and I’m looking forward to helping them in whatever capacity I can.”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Big Ass Beer

Founding Big Ass Truck member Robby Grant with a can of Malt Liquor Man (Credit: Clark Ostrieke)

Big Ass Truck now has a big ass beer named after it.

Crosstown Brewing Company will introduce its first malt liquor, Malt Liquor Man, between 4 and 6 p.m., Thursday, November 2nd, at the Concourse Block Party at Crosstown Concourse, says the brewery’s owner Clark Ortkiese. Free beer will be available for those 21 and up. 

Then, between 6 and 8 p.m., Crosstown Brewing Co. will be selling the malt liquor at the brewery, which is located at Crosstown Concourse. “Big Ass Truck will be in the tap room between 6 and 8 spinning their favorite songs,” Ortkiese says.

If Malt Liquor Man sounds familiar, that’s because it’s also the name of one of Big Ass Truck’s songs.

Big Ass Truck DJ Colin Butler came up with the idea of the brewery doing a malt liquor in honor of the band, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, Ortkiese says. “I think he specifically said, ‘Would you do a malt liquor?’’’

To which Ortkiese replied, “Hell, yeah, we could.”

Big Ass Truck: On steps: Robby Grant, Colin Butler, Robert Barnett.
On ground: Grayson Grant, Steve Selvidge, Alex Greene (Credit: Bob Bayne)
Clark Ortkiese (Credit: Clark Ortkiese)

Butler was part of the original lineup for the psychedelic/funk/rock/hip-hop band, which also included Steve Selvidge on guitar and vocals, Robby Grant on guitar and vocals, Robert Barnett on drums, Joe Boone on bass, Alex Greene (now Memphis Flyer music editor) on keyboards, and percussion player Drew Conner.

“We had never done one before and we’re kind of itching to do one. So much of craft beer can be so highfalutin and fancy at times. And all these crazy things. To me, it doesn’t have to be. I like the idea of making a craft malt liquor.”

Malt liquor is “kind of loosely defined. It’s a high-alcohol workingman’s drink. Probably ’30s, ’40s was when it cut its teeth.” The beer usually is considered “a cheap drink for the masses. It got them drunk and it was cheap to make.”

As for their malt liquor, Ortkiese says, “We thought it was fun to reimagine it and make it something elevated.”

Malt Liquor Man is “sneaky strong, very smooth, and clean. We use some corn in it to get that traditional malt liquor flavor.”

And, he says, “Paper bags are optional.”

Clark Ortkiese (Credit: Clark Ortkiese)

Ortkiese and Grant, are “allies,” Ortkiese says. Grant is executive director at WYXR radio, which also is based at Crosstown Concourse.

He and Grant also are part of “The Sunday Group,” a golf group that gets together every Sunday. “It’s a bunch of marketing people. You’d think we’d have a more creative name.

“Colin Butler played sometimes with us. I can’t remember where we were, but we were talking about doing a beer and releasing it at their 30th anniversary party. But our production schedule didn’t allow it.”

The song, “Malt Liquor Man,” which is “just about enjoying cold malt liquor on a summer afternoon,” is included on the band’s self-titled first album, Big Ass Truck, which came out in the ’90s, Butler says. He remembers how the song came to be. “That was a fun, sweltering afternoon sitting on our porch drinking some cheap 40s of malt liquor.”

Big Ass Truck: the early years. Robby Grant, Alex Greene, Colin Butler, Drew Conner, Joe Boone, Robert Barnett, Steve Selvidge (Credit: Trey Harrison)

Why malt liquor? “’Cause it was cheap, easy to get, and across the street at Peter Pan’s Pantry, which is where we’d go. We have a song called ‘Peter Pan’s Pantry,’ too.”

That song, which was named after the iconic Midtown convenience store, was written by Greene and Selvidge.

And, Butler says, “I’d seen where another local brewery had done a beer for Gonerfest. Someone did ‘GonerBrau.’ Memphis Made. And I’d seen where Crosstown brewery had done a beer for WYXR, where Robby works. I thought, ‘These guys may be into doing this for us.’”

Tom Martin designed the label for the malt liquor. “He was way into doing a design for the malt liquor ’cause he’s a friend of ours. He does all their labels. He was particularly into this one because he’s a friend of ours and a fan of the band and a fan of the song.”

“Malt Liquor Man” malt liquor

Malt Liquor Man — the brew — won’t be the last beer named after a band, Ortkiese says. “I’ve got another beer coming up in December. We’re working with another local band — Grape.”

Asked to reveal something about the beer, Ortkiese says, “You think it would have grapes in it, wouldn’t you?”

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Hungry Memphis

Three Little Pigs + Chicken + Turkey

Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q co-owner NaMario Yancey and me with two of the new items at the iconic restaurant. (Credit: Tonya Hardin)

I noticed a pink hand-written sign that read: “Smoked turkey legs & Bar-B-Q chicken” when I stopped by Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q recently to buy some banana pudding.

Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q (Credit: Michael Donahue)

 A grilled barbecued chicken option is exciting news to me. I love pork, but I love other options, too. So, I returned and ordered a barbecued chicken sandwich and a smoked turkey leg. When I finished, I felt like I do after I eat Thanksgiving dinner. Very full and very happy.

Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q (Credit: Michael Donahue)

I called NaMario Yancey, who, along with his brother, Napoleon Yancey III, own Three Little Pigs, to ask about the new items. That’s when he told me they also added macaroni and cheese to the menu. As far as he knows, this is the first time Three Little Pigs has sold barbecued chicken, smoked turkey legs, and macaroni and cheese.

NaMario had the idea to sell barbecued chicken when he bought the iconic restaurant at 5145 Quince Road in Quince Station Shopping Center in October, 2022.

NaMario Yancey in October, 2022, shortly after he became co-owner of Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q (Credit: Michael Donahue)

His dad, Napoleon Yancey Jr., came up with the marinated chicken recipe a while back for the family concession business, Yancey’s Smoking Good Food. 

The chicken is slow smoked, he says. You can order it chopped or pulled. The sandwich is topped with slaw and your choice (I chose both) of Three Little Pigs original barbecue sauce or “Memphis Mild.”

“Memphis Mild is the combination of the tomato-based sauce and the vinegar sauce,” NaMario says. “Plus, it has the sweet and the heat. It has some of everything in it. Memphis Mild pairs better with the chicken.”

I’m not sure I knew this, but, NaMario tells me, “The original sauce is Loeb’s barbecue sauce. This used to be a Loeb’s Bar-B-Q.”

I ordered the pulled chicken sandwich with both sauces on the side. I dipped parts of the sandwich in the two sauces — like I dip sushi in hot oil, eel sauce, and spicy mayo at Sakura Japanese Restaurant. 

You can order the sandwich, the barbecued chicken plate with two sides, and the barbecued chicken nachos. “Everything you can get with pork you can get with chicken,” NaMario says.

As for the turkey leg, NaMario says, “They just come as is. Or you can make it a plate and add two sides.”

The turkey legs are slow smoked and come with either or both barbecue sauces. The leg I had actually tasted like turkey, which doesn’t always happen with turkey legs. And these are big legs. 

Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q now offers barbecued chicken, turkey legs, and macaroni and cheese.
Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q (Credit: Michael Donahue)

I tried the macaroni and cheese on a later visit. I loved it. “I make it personally myself,” NaMario says. “I’m the only one who makes it.”

Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q (Credit: Michael Donahue)

He makes it from “an old family recipe. From my great aunt, Aunt Lou. It’s really hard to describe. Once you taste it, any other one won’t compare. And I’m not saying that to brag or anything.”

NaMario used to call his aunt, “Momma Lou,” and request her macaroni and cheese instead of a cake on his birthday. “If I could pick, it was macaroni and cheese.” But his aunt also made him a cake. A yellow cake with chocolate frosting, to be exact.

Customers also can order “mac and cheese bowls” with pork or chicken and the sauces.

NaMario says he has gotten “great reviews” from customers, including those living in the neighborhood, about his macaroni and cheese.

Since he came aboard Three Little Pigs, NaMario has added desserts, which include cakes and, occasionally, cinnamon rolls. In a couple of weeks, he’s going to add sweet potato pie, pound cake, and butter cookies. And, of course, they still sell their home-made banana pudding, which is made the way it’s been made way before NaMario became an owner.

If the interior at Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q looks different, that’s because NaMario gave the restaurant a new look. He repainted the restaurant walls, which used to be peach pink. Now, NaMario says, the color scheme is “Tiger blue and gray.”

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Hungry Memphis

Eat Like a Movie Actor

The Indie Memphis showing of The Taste of Things will be followed by an actual food tasting.

Moviegoers often wish they could be eating what the characters are eating in certain scenes in a film. Think of the famous dinner scene in Tom Jones. Or everything edible in Julie & Julia, the movie about chef Julia Child. And then, of course, there’s that spaghetti in Walt Disney’s animated classic, Lady and the Tramp.

Well, Dan Kopera is making that a reality. He will serve some of the cuisine featured in The Taste of Things following the 11:30 a.m. movie showing, which will be Saturday, October 28th at Playhouse on the Square. Those who bought tickets to the 2023 movie, directed by Tran Anh Hung ,will then walk to the old Pantà restaurant at 2146 Monroe Avenue for Kopera’s take on some of the dishes in the film.

Chef Dan Kopera (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Describing the movie, Kopera, 49, a chef at The Second Line, says, “It’s a romantic relationship between the chef and his cook, and it all revolves around food. There’s so much food in the movie. It’s primarily French food. It does take place in France in the 19th century.

“They sent me a screening line. I enjoyed it. It’s not a movie I would have sought out for myself. It’s not my style. But it was very good.”

Then, he says, “I copied a few things from the movie that were interesting to me.

“I spent a couple of hours the next day just brainstorming and doing some research. Which then I took to chef Kelly English [owner of The Second Line] and consulted with him to get his thoughts on it. He added his opinions and that’s how we came up with these four items.”

Some dishes in the film were unfamiliar to Kopera. But, he says, “A couple of things from the movie I could do. Baked Alaska was one. It’s the only dessert featured in the movie.”

Making Baked Alaska is “much easier to make in modern days than it was in the 19th century when it was invented.”

Back then, making the dessert “was kind of an all-day-long process.

“For one, we have refrigeration. And they had to use ice chests to make the ice cream. And, also we have modern equipment. The blow torch to cook the outside of the meringue. Rather than what they did, which was light brandy on fire and roll it over it to cook the outside. Meringue protects the ice cream from melting.”

He’s also doing chicken vol-au-vent. “They did a very large version of this. It’s a puff pastry filled with various things. I’m doing a chicken dish with it. It’s one of those things you can fill with anything. Almost a cream puff kind of thing. I’m going to be doing little mini vol-au-vents for everyone to try.”

Kopera will make croque monsieur dip with crostini. “The original dish is a sandwich. A grilled ham and cheese. I’m taking it to another level. I’m French toasting it.”

And, finally, he will be serving ratatouille skewers. “It’s eggplant, zucchini, tomato, peppers — taking the basic ingredients of ratatouille, which is usually baked in a sort of casserole — and I’m making that into hand-held bite-sized skewers.”

Like popcorn, everything Kopera is serving will be finger food. “These are little tastes, so people can get the taste of the movie and the taste of France.”

For more information on The Taste of Things showing and tasting, go here.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Old Dominick Distillery Teams Up With Bain BBQ

(Credit: Bain BBQ)

Starting Friday, your glass of Old Dominick Distillery bourbon may come with a side of barbecue.

That’s Bain BBQ, to be specific, as Old Dominick announced that it would introduce a food offering from the Cooper-Young restaurant beginning October 27th at its Downtown distillery at 305 South Front Street.

“Our partnership with Bain BBQ creates a delightful food offering for our guests,” Ben Brown, director of guest experiences at Old Dominick Distillery, said in a statement. “Starting October 27th, you can savor the best of both worlds, with their culinary offerings paired with our premium spirits.”

The Distillery had been without a food component since Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman’s Gray Canary, which opened in 2018 inside the Old Dominick building, closed in January this year.

Bain BBQ’s menu at Old Dominick will include a range of sandwiches, including turkey breast, pulled pork, and brisket, and available sides like coleslaw or chips. And save some room for the Texas Twinkies (basically poppers), a combo of bacon, jalapeños, and cream cheese.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Local on the Square Closing, Madison Tavern Moving in

In November, Madison Tavern will take over the space of Local on the Square, which will close October 28th. (Credit: Tim Quinn)

Local on the Square will close Saturday, October 28th, and Madison Tavern will take over the space at 2126 Madison Avenue in November.

“We’re hoping to be open — if dreams come true — for Thanksgiving,” says Tim Quinn. He and his wife Tarrah are the new owners. “Probably a couple of weeks afterward if things don’t go perfectly.”

Describing Madison Tavern, Tim, who also owns Local on Main Street with his wife, says, “It will be a neighborhood place. I want it to be a nice spot — something that can be for a nice occasion to go out, but also casual enough to go to every day if you live in the neighborhood or nearby.”

He doesn’t want to compare Madison Tavern to Local on the Square, which he describes as “iconic,” but he wants to keep that same “cool atmosphere. We’re trying to create that same feel where people can come in and they’re comfortable and just hang out.”

Tim wants it to be the place where people can go if they’re planning to stay for dinner or drinks or go somewhere else before or after. If they’re not staying for dinner, they can get drinks before going across the street to dinner at Porch and Parlor or to see a show at Lafayette’s Music Room, he says.

As for Madison Tavern’s fare, Tim says, “I want to try to keep a fairly small menu. Some burgers. Some sandwiches. Some nice dinner plates. As much of it from scratch as possible. Locally sourced whenever we can. Downtown, we put some hydroponic towers in. We’re growing our own herbs.”

He plans to “offer some strong seafood” items, including catfish, which has been a “huge thing” at Local on Main Street.

Tim also wants to include beef. “I’m sure a beef tenderloin. Or a filet. But big steaks don’t tend to go over. People come in, they’re wanting to get a nice meal, willing to spend money, but they want to be in and out in 30 minutes: ‘I’ve got a show to see.’”

Madison Tavern will offer specials, which will depend on what is locally sourced that week. “We want to have a solid menu. A couple of daily specials.”

They will be open for dinner only around 3 p.m. during the first week, Tim says. “We want to catch that happy hour crowd. We’ll have nice happy hour specials. Small plates.”

He plans to stay open until 1am on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, but “be out of there by midnight” the rest of the week.

And he wants to have “a very welcoming atmosphere and specials” for service industry people who want to grab some food and drinks when they get off work. He wants to “keep those guys happy. They work hard.”

As for the decor, Tim says he wants Madison Avenue to have “a lodge feeling. There will be some stained glass chandeliers. I want to put some copper, tin tiles on the ceiling. Change the colors of the booths, the walls. Some hunter greens and burgundies. Then some blues. A couple of different neutral colors. Anything we can change, we’re going to change. We want it to be obvious that somebody’s come in and done something different.”

The Quinns also owned Memphis Clover Club, but Tim says, “The lease came up to be signed. I wasn’t willing to commit that much longer. I dropped out of that lease. I closed that one down at the beginning of last week.”

Local on the Square opened October 2012, says owner Jeff Johnson, who now lives in Santa Rosa, Florida. “We had a great run and enjoyed it,” he says. “But part of it was not living in town anymore. And trying to manage it from afar. It wasn’t what I wanted to continue to do. I’ve got some other business interests I’m concentrating on.

“I’ve had a lovely time in the 30 years I’ve been in the restaurant business in some capacity. Maybe one day down there in Florida or another town, I’d like to get into it again. Right now in my life I’m concentrating on real estate development and short-term rentals. Which is where I’d like to concentrate my efforts.”

He’s not disappearing from Memphis, though. “I still have a home in Memphis. I’m not going to be a stranger, by any means. And if Tim needs any advice along the way, I’ll offer that, too.”

And, Johnson says, “I think he’s going to do well.”

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Hungry Memphis

Amelia Gene’s Restaurant Now Open

The bar area of Amelia Gene's restaurant (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Well, I’m now a fan of Amelia Gene’s, the new restaurant located at the site of the old William C. Ellis and Sons Ironworks and Machine Shop, which was originally constructed in 1879. It’s adjacent to the Caption by Hyatt Beale Street Memphis Hotel at 255 South Front Street.

As the restaurant’s news release states, Amelia Gene’s adds “yet another wave of hospitality to One Beale’s Downtown Memphis development.” Amelia Gene’s was named after the five-year-old daughter of Chance Carlisle, CEO of Carlisle Corp.

The restaurant is beautiful — from the tall windows behind the bar on one side to the large open kitchen on the other. The bar and dining areas were designed by The Johnson Studio at Cooper Carry, an architectural firm out of Atlanta, Georgia.

My sister, Kathy Mcallen, and I had a reservation for opening night October 22nd, so we tried quite a few things on the menu. And, man oh man, the food is wonderful.

I thought Kristian Hatfield, who was wearing a jacket and necktie, was a manager. But he was a server. That’s what they wear. It sets a nice tone. And Hatfield was great. He explained the menu and took care of our table.

Nate Henssler, who is managing partner as well as executive chef, stopped by the table and discussed menu items. According to the release, he was “recruited to Memphis last fall by Carlisle Restaurant Group after two decades of leading kitchens in Chicago and Las Vegas. Amelia Gene’s welcomes a contemporary, globally inspired palate artfully designed to impress.”

The foie gras macaron, one of the “Proper Bites,” was incredible. I could have eaten a dozen of them. In fact, I also could have kept eating the sourdough bread with cardamom honey butter, hummus, and house-made pickles, one of the first things to arrive at the table.

I loved the blackberry oysters with cauliflower soubis, pickled cucumber, and bay leaf. And I loved the “Kaluga Caviar Beignet” with sweet onion cream and Arkansas black apple. I could have eaten a dozen of those, too.

My delicious “starter” was the Wagyu steak tartare with perilla oil, potato latke, and truffled green almond.

Wagyu steak tartare at Amelia Gene’s (Credit: Michael Donahue)

I will definitely return and make a meal out of just the bucatini with saffron, piquillo, and white tomato. This is one of the “Pasta” course items.

Bucatini at Amelia Gene’s (Credit: Michael Donahue)

My sister had the tasty Massachusetts black sea bass with red cabbage and a caraway jus as her dinner item. I had a tough time trying to figure out what I wanted. The descriptions were mouth-watering. The big eye tuna with  foie gras, beetroot, caponata, and fig reduction sounds so good. I was tempted to order some fig reduction on the side of my order, which was a delicious 22-ounce dry-aged prime New York Strip with beef fat popovers and sauce au poivre. Those popovers, which topped the steak, are must tries.

Massachusetts black sea bass at Amelia Gene’s (Credit: Michael Donahue)
New York strip with beef fat popovers at Amelia Gene’s (Credit: Michael Donahue)

After talking with chef Henssler, on my next visit I’m going to order the duck with kumquat, butternut squash, endive, and natural sauce.

For dessert, I got Amelia Gene’s ice cream sundae with hot fudge, butterscotch, whipped cream, chocolate bark, and a cherry. And my sister got the salted caramel creme brûlée with cherry sauce and whipped white chocolate. It was the biggest creme brûlée I’ve ever seen. It was about the size of a medium-sized pie.

Ice cream sundae at Amelia Gene’s (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Creme Brulee at Amelia Gene’s (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Amelia Gene’s is wonderful. It’s a great addition to downtown. And writing this in between a bowl of oatmeal for breakfast and a peanut butter sandwich for lunch is torture. I want the duck and some foie gras macarons right now. But Amelia Gene’s is only open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday.

And I want some fig reduction to go with everything.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

“Bar-B-Q Mac & Cheese” is New Tops Item

Tops Bar-B-Q's new Bar-B-Q Mac & Cheese with pork, brisket, and chicken options (Credit: Kyle Salzgeber)

Tops Bar-B-Q continues to stay on top of its game.

On Monday, October 16th, Tops will launch a new item — “Bar-B-Q Mac & Cheese” — company wide, says Hunter Brown with Tops LLC. “After we introduced mac and cheese, it was a no brainer we get Bar-B-Q Mac & Cheese back on the menu,” Brown says. “It’s an item Tops had about seven or eight years ago.”

But this one will be made with the new mac and cheese Tops launched last June, Brown says. “We’ve taken our new mac and cheese  — a healthy portion of our macaroni and cheese — and we upgraded our Bar-B-Q Mac & Cheese with an option of pork, chicken, or brisket. Enhanced with our Memphis sweet sauce. And then we add some of our famous dry rub and blend it all together.”

As Brown said in an earlier interview, their new mac and cheese is made with “fresh whole milk, tender macaroni, and real cheese (no powder stuff here).”

The new item isn’t a side item because of the size of the portions. “It’s certainly a meal,” says Brown, adding that “it’s a really good option for somebody eating on the go because it’s intended for folks to be able to eat it right out of the drive through.”

Tops Bar-B-Q (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Another plus: kids love it, he says.

Tops tested Bar-B-Q Mac & Cheese at their newest location, which is in Cordova, Brown says. And it was a hit. “Absolutely phenomenal. The guests love it.”

The restaurant uses its Fire-Braised Chicken, which Tops launched in November, 2022,  on the new item. “Fire-Braised Chicken made it to a couple of things since its inception. You can substitute chicken on our famous barbecue nachos. It’s a big hit.”

I tried the Bar-B-Q Mac & Cheese with all three proteins. And they’re great. “Comfort food” was the first thing that came to mind. This definitely is a meal. And I would add Tops banana pudding, which was introduced not long ago, to my order.

Tops Bar-B-Q (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Brown says Tops only introduces new they believe in, never just for the sake of doing something new. “We want to really enhance the customer’s experience while highlighting some of the items that have made us successful over 70 years.”

Tops Bar-B-Q now has 17 locations. And, Brown says, “Number 18 is coming soon.” Stay tuned.

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Hungry Memphis Uncategorized

David Grisanti’s on Main Opens October 10th in Collierville

The elegant David Grisanti's on Main was designed to give diners a feel of Tuscany (Credit: Michael Donahue)

David Grisanti’s on Main will open Tuesday, October 10th.

It’s not on Main Street in Memphis like his grandfather’s restaurant once was, but on Main Street in Collierville, Tennessee.

The restaurant, owned by chef David Grisanti and his wife, Robyn, is absolutely stunning.

It’s housed in the old P.O. Press Public House & Provisions restaurant space at 148 North Main Street, but it looks nothing like that restaurant, which closed in 2019.

Chandeliers and sconces are from Italy. Chairs are covered in merlot wine-colored fabric. The tin on the walls is gone. The walls are now painted “Emerald Gold” and “Natural Linen.” A wall made of stucco bricks divides the main dining room, which includes tables on one side and booths on the other.

The idea was to turn the space into “the style of a Tuscan building,” David says.

Robyn and David Grisanti at David Grisanti’s on Main (Credit: Michael Donahue)

A mural inside is taken from a photo of the home of David’s great-great grandfather, the late Eustachio Grisanti, in Valdottavo, Italy. The original photo includes David’s dad, the late John “Big John” Grisanti, owner of the iconic The Original John Grisanti’s Restaurant, which was on Airways Boulevard at Lamar Avenue.

David Grisanti’s on Main (Credit: Michael Donahue)
John “Big John” Grisanti at David Grisanti’s on Main (Credit: Michael Donahue)

A massive 10-foot-by-8 foot wine cabinet includes the legendary bottles (now empty) of wine Big John bought and auctioned off for St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital. One was purchased for $18,000 and the other, for $31,000, David says.

David Grisanti’s on Main (Credit: Michael Donahue)
David Grisanti’s on Main (Credit: Michael Donahue)
David Grisanti’s on Main (Credit: Michael Donahue)

David kept the bar pretty much as it was except to freshen up the trim. He also refurbished the six hanging light fixtures over the bar. He painted them black and punched holes in them to give them effect of looking like stars.

Diners will be able to learn a lot of the history of the Grisanti restaurants by just walking around the space. An oil painting on one wall was from Big John’s Airways restaurant. A framed segment of a 1950s-designed wallpaper from Grisanti’s on Main, which was owned by David’s grandfather, is in another frame along with a photo taken at the restaurant that shows the wallpaper.

David Grisanti’s on Main (Credit: Michael Donahue)
David Grisanti’s on Main (Credit: Michael Donahue)

A menu from Grisanti’s on Main reveals the days diners could order spaghetti for 75 cents and a steak for $5.

Grisanti’s on Main is bigger than his former restaurant at Sheffield Antique Mall, David says. His new restaurant seats 118 as opposed to 75.

“I’ve always wanted to have my own restaurant,” David says. “I wanted Tuscan style.”

And, he adds, “It goes with my style of food.”

David, who put in a spacious kitchen, says the menu will include the same items Big John served on Airways and David served when his restaurant was housed at Sheffield’s. Diners will see familiar items, including “Miss Mary’s Salad,” “Toasted Ravioli,” and “Elfo Special.” The red sauce for dishes, including the spaghetti and manicotti, will be the same passed-down Grisanti recipes. But David also will do specials as well as his own signature items, including his “famous prime rib.”

He’s also going to serve his popular sea bass as well as a lot of fish specials. “I love doing high-end fish,” he says.

David will offer gluten-free and vegetarian menu items as well as nut-free desserts.

Guests will dine to recordings of songs by classic Italian performers, including Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra.

Grisanti’s on Main will be open for dinner only on Tuesday through Saturday.

So, what would his dad think of David Grisanti’s on Main? “Looking down, I guess he’d be proud of us,” David says.

David Grisanti’s on Main (Credit: Michael Donahue)
David Grisanti’s on Main (Credit: Michael Donahue)
David Grisanti’s on Main (Credit: Michael Donahue)
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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Memphis Grilled Cheese Fest Returns

Memphis Grilled Cheese Fest founder Brian "Skinny" McCabe with "The Big Cheese" created by Josh McLane at South Point Grocery (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Thank goodness. The gooey, tantalizing Memphis Grilled Cheese Fest returns November 5th.

The annual event is back after four years with lots of grilled cheese sandwiches from competing teams as well as live music, cheesy gifts, a cheese-eating competition, and food trucks. It takes place between noon and 4 p.m. in front of and inside the Hi Tone at 282-284 Cleveland Street, which will be blocked off between Larkin Avenue and Peach Avenue. The Hi-Tone will be open with live bands on both floors. Deejays will provide tunes outside.

The event’s creator, Brian “Skinny” McCabe, will be back, too. “I don’t even know when or how I thought of the idea, but it was a really, really long time ago,” he says.

McCabe had just moved his club from Poplar Avenue to its first address on Cleveland Street. “I was sitting around thinking of stuff to do and cool things to bring to the neighborhood,” he said.

He originally thought about holding the event inside the club. “Then I put the Facebook event up and got crazy response and had to figure out how to talk to the city and get the street shut down.”

The festival was a hit. “A couple of thousand people showed up.”

Jack Gould and Claire O’Connell sample grilled cheese at the 2018 Memphis Grilled Cheese Fest (Credit: Michael Donahue)

McCabe chose grilled cheese sandwiches because he likes the sandwich. “It’s one of my favorite comfort foods of all time. So easy. So cheap. Bread, butter, and cheese. It’s so straightforward.”

He also likes them made a certain way. “I personally love Texas toast and Country Crock butter,” he says, adding, “And then you sprinkle some Everything Bagel seasoning on there. Two or three Kraft singles. And then toast it up. Cut it corner to corner — not width wise.”

Memphis Grilled Cheese festival is always held on a Sunday to accommodate restaurant people who can attend on their day off.

McCabe raises money for charities with event proceeds. This year, the festival will benefit Thrive Memphis — “an organization that helps special needs and handicapped children.”

He has his reasons for always holding the event in November. “I don’t want to eat hot food when it’s hot outside. I want it to be the last street festival of the year. And warm people up. And if the grilled cheese doesn’t warm you up, the Hi Tone will be open with lots of whiskey to sell.”

McCabe doesn’t yet know how many teams will participate this year, but the competition is open to everybody. “It can be you and your buddies. It can be restaurants, law offices, Wiffle ball teams.”

Participating teams pass out grilled cheese to those who give donations for the fundraiser. Whichever team raises the most money is the grand champion. 

And some of those teams load on the cheese, McCabe says. “You have so much cheese on there you won’t be able to whistle for days.”

But he has a solution to that problem. “Whisky will get things moving. Because alcohol is the cause and solution of all problems.”

Teams also can compete for “Best Tomato Soup.” Grilled cheese and tomato soup just go together, McCabe says. Growing up, he “always had tomato soup to either dip it in or accompany it. Some people use chicken noodle soup instead. That’s totally fine. I’ve tried it both ways.”

And teams can vie for “Most Ridiculous.” McCabe has seen all types of ingredients, including steak, pork belly, a quail egg, and even stuffed animals, on the grilled cheese sandwiches. “One year I saw a grilled cheese sandwich dipped in funnel cake batter and fried. And that was wild.”

Some of the braver attendees participate in the grilled cheese-eating contest. “We set down a plate of 20 or 30 grilled cheese sandwiches in front of you. Whoever eats the most in a designated amount of time is the winner.”

Winners receive prizes. “We’ve got all kinds of little knick-knacks and stuff.”

Bram Bors-Koefoed, who won the grilled cheese eating contest in 2018, received a pair of socks dotted with images of cheese along with a toaster. “I think my wife and I found those just out and about somewhere,” McCabe says. “We collect stuff all year long. Anything that has grilled cheese on it.”

Bram Bors-Koefoed won a toaster and a pair of socks in the 2018 grilled cheese eating contest at the Memphis Grilled Cheese Fest. With him is Brian “Skinny” McCabe (Credit: Michael Donahue)

For the first time, McCabe had trophies made for the grilled cheese team winners. The metal-and-plastic trophies are topped with grilled cheese and tomato soup statues.

This year’s festival will feature “a whole kids’ activity section” with balloon animals and face painting, McCabe says.

Live music will be provided by Sunweight, The Memphis Winslows, and The Heavy Pour.

Memphis Grilled Cheese Festival sounds like it would be heaven for its creator, but, McCabe says, “I rarely get to eat any grilled cheese. I have to go home and make my own after the festival because I’m just busy.”

For more information or to participate as a team, go to memphisgrilledcheese.com.