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Hungry Memphis

Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q Has New Owners

By December, customers should be able to order barbecued chicken at Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q.

That’s just one of the new items slated to be added to the menu. For the first time since 1989, the iconic restaurant at 5145 Quince Road has new owners. NaMario Yancey and his brother, Napoleon Yancey, bought the restaurant October 7th.

“My brother, when he tried the food, said, ‘This place has the best breakfast, burgers, and barbecue.’ Like the three B’s,” says NaMario. “And it actually made sense.”

Napoleon was first to discover the restaurant was for sale. “My brother saw a listing ‘For Sale’ under business and Three Little Pigs was one of them. He just told me when he was looking at it. We saw great potential from the start.”

The sale of Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q follows the sales of other legendary Memphis eating spots, including The Pancake Shop, Leonard’s Pit Barbecue, and Bryant’s Breakfast.

 Three Little Pigs originally was a Loeb’s barbecue restaurant when it opened in 1968, says former owner Charlie Robertson. Around 1982, Jack Whitaker, who owned the nearby Yorkshire Launderette, bought the restaurant. Robertson bought the restaurant from Whitaker in 1989.

“Jack is the one who changed the name to ‘Three Little Pigs,’” Robertson says.

Asked why he decided to sell the restaurant, Robertson says, “Well, I guess (I’m) just tired.  Ready to slow down. Not work as much.”

And, he says, “The help situation is another big thing. You can’t get any help. Can’t get anybody to work. Everybody’s got that problem.”

Robertson will still be at the restaurant, though. “Oh, yeah.  I’m going to work part time there.”

NaMario wasn’t skeptical about buying Three Little Pigs. “I was not dubious because I’ve been in the business for 23 years, selling barbecue and selling food, so we were going to make it work,” he says. “My dad started his own concession business in 1999: Yancey’s Cool Stuff & More.”

NaMario says they’ve sold at the Delta Fair, Mid-South Fair, Bluff City Fair, Mud Island Amphitheater, Memphis in May Beale Street Music Festival, and Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest. “We’ve been all over this city for a long time.”

He and his three brothers continue to work at their dad’s concession business. They sell “funnel cakes, corn dogs, barbecue nachos, turkey legs, chicken on a stick, Polish sausage, all your fair items.”

NaMario got in his dad’s business when he was in the fourth grade. “Started off making snowballs.”

He’d only eaten at Three Little Pigs once before buying the business, and that was several years ago, when he was taking a University of Memphis elective bowling class at Billy Hardwick’s All-Star Lanes, right next door. “I had the cheeseburger,” he recalls.

NaMario ate at Three Little Pigs for the second time just before he and Napoleon bought the business. “It’s actually a different perspective when you’re going to buy than when you’re going to eat.” Usually, people aren’t thinking about purchasing the business when they go out to eat at a restaurant. “You’re going to get what you want and that’s it.”

But he and Napoleon wanted to check out everything: “The employees and how they greet you and how they smile. They know customers by name and they know what they’re going to order before they get there.”

NaMario ordered barbecue on that visit. “I thought it was great.”

NaMario Yancey at Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q (Credit: Michael Donahue)

They won’t change the barbecue. “The original is staying the original because that is what the taste is for the customers.” But they are planning to add a selection of different sauces.

The first thing NaMario did after they bought Three Little Pigs was to get in the kitchen and see how breakfast was done. “I hadn’t been there for breakfast, and it was a great experience. The police officers coming in and the firefighters. And the early morning line workers were in there. I took over the griddle from watching Mr. Charlie my first day. Just to get into it. I did well. I’ve been cooking for 23 years, so it was easy to catch on and cook.”

So far, NaMario and Napoleon haven’t made any changes. But they will be eventually be offering new items. “I’m going to add grilled chicken to the menu,” says NaMario. “And charcoal`smoked and hickory-smoked turkey legs.” He also plans to add beef brisket, and macaroni and cheese, as well as some new desserts.

Nothing is leaving the menu, NaMario says. “If I got rid of something, you never know the backlash you might get on it.  It’s there for a reason.” It had been a while since anything new was added to the restaurant’s menu. “I guess they were keeping it simple. And it worked.”

NaMario has a ballpark date when he he’s going to begin carrying more food items. “I’m trying to push before Thanksgiving adding items,” he says. “If anything, by the beginning of December.” As for the restaurant itself, NaMario says,  “I do want to add some TV and music.”

He wants customers to be able to watch the University of Memphis Tigers and Memphis Grizzlies games. “People get to-go orders on game day. They grab barbecue to go. Why not create a place where customers can stay and watch the Grizzlies and the Tigers.”

So, what about franchising Three Little Pigs Bar-B-Q? All NaMario will say is, “The sky’s the limit. The potential is great.”

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Restaurant Iris Now Open

The eagerly-awaited opening of Restaurant Iris at its new location at 4550 Poplar Avenue in the Laurelwood Shopping Center took place today, October 3rd.

The restaurant, the epitome of an elegant contemporary restaurant, opened at 11 a.m. for lunch. The restaurant, which is probably more than twice the size of its old location, now occupied by Pantà, is at the old location of The Grove Grill.

Restaurant Iris (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Russell Casey is executive chef of the restaurant, which is owned by Kelly English. Casey said in an earlier Memphis Flyer interview, “We’re going to do classic New Orleans cuisine. Think Galatoire’s with my footprint, hand print, whatever you want to call it, all through the menu.”

A menu item closely related to what Casey does is his pan-seared flounder with lima beans, succotash, béarnaise, and jumbo lump crabmeat.

According to marketing director for Iris Group LLC Caleb Sigler, lunch, with a menu that will expand in the coming weeks, will be available from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. seven days a week. A brunch menu will be featured on Saturdays and Sundays.

Dinner reservations are now available online, restaurantiris.com, for Friday October 7th and Saturday October 8th. Additional dinner reservations will be added in the coming weeks.

And, Sigler says, “Bar menu will be available all day starting October 10th. Bar menu will include a handful of classic Restaurant Iris favorites (ravioli, lobster knuckle sandwich, etc.)

The spacious bar and oyster bar are off the main dining room. 

Ann Parker and her team at Parker Design Studio designed the interior. The elegant-looking restaurant features a green-and-white mosaic floor at the entrance into the main dining room with its serpentine booths. Italian glass fixtures resemble colorful balloons because of the light bulbs that are run by an LED lighting system. They feature the full spectrum of colors, which are manipulated at a control panel off the main dining room.

The restaurant also has four private dining rooms that can accommodate both small or large groups.

Restaurant Iris (Credit: Michael Donahue)
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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Tops Bar-B-Q Now Serving Breakfast at Union Avenue Location. What???!!!!

You might have had breakfast at Tops Bar-B-Q. That is, if you were eating a barbecue sandwich or a hamburger after you got out of bed in the morning. Or afternoon. Or night.

But you’ve never been able to order a breakfast breakfast — as in brisket, egg, and cheese — at Tops. Until now.

“Today is the day,” says Tops Bar-B-Q vice president Hunter Brown.

Beginning Sept. 27th, Tops Bar-B-Q is offering a breakfast menu between 6:30 to 10:30 a.m. at its 1286 Union location, Brown says.

“For the last eight weeks, we’ve been in Marion, Arkansas, and Southaven, Mississippi, testing breakfast,” he says.

And, he adds, “When you do something this big, you don’t want to confuse the masses in your customer base.”

Thirteen of their 16 locations are in the Memphis, Bartlett, and Millington area. They will still offer breakfast in Marion and Southaven.

“We’ve got a very unique menu selection — something we think that sets us apart from the rest of the companies doing breakfast, particularly the quick-service restaurants.

“Our menu is based primarily around breakfast sandwiches. We use a buttered toasted bun that fits the protein — meat, egg, and cheese — perfectly. It just melts together. It’s so fantastic.”

And, he says, “We brought in a bigger, better bacon for this.”

They currently use bacon on their cheeseburger, but, Tops wanted a bacon that matches their ground beef, which is delivered daily from Charlie’s Meat Market. “We wanted to match that quality in bacon. And I’m very confident we have.”

Of course, Tops isn’t going to offer any run-of-the mill breakfast sandwiches. “We’ve got some unique items.”

These include the “Smoked Breakfast Bologna,” which is bologna, egg, and cheese; “Brisket and Cream Cheese,” which is a fried egg, melted cheese and Tops’ new Sweet and Saucy barbecue sauce; and “Breakfast BLT,” a fried egg added to the traditional BLT (bacon, lettuce, and tomato).

“And then, of course, Tops can’t roll out any menu without highlighting our world famous cheeseburger,” Hunter says.

Their “Rise and Shine Burger” adds “a fried egg and melted cheese to our already famous cheeseburger.”

What about barbecue, you ask? Tops is offering the “Original Que & Egg Sandwich” — a fried egg, pulled chopped pork, queso, and hot barbecue sauce sandwich. “All melted together on a buttery toasted bun.”

They also offer traditional sandwiches, including “Bacon, Egg & Cheese Sandwich,” “Sausage Egg and Cheese,” and, if you don’t want any meat at all, the “Egg & Cheese Sandwich.”

Heck, Tops also is offering a “Pearl Sugar Waffle” on its breakfast menu. “It’s infused with maple syrup and pearl sugar. It’s the only waffle I’ve ever had that didn’t need anything on the side like syrup or butter.”

And, he adds, “It’s drive-through friendly.” You don’t have to worry about trying to dip it into syrup while you’re trying to drive.

As for extending the breakfast to other Tops locations, Brown says, “Right now it’s still under discussion.”

The Union location was perfect, he says. “Being in the hospital district, being able to feed third shifters coming off and first shifters coming on, it’s something we thought would be great.”

Breakfast ends at 10:30 a.m., but Tops will continue to offer its full menu all day. “We have a lot of third shifters getting off at 6:30, 7 in the morning. It’s their end of day. We’re selling ribs, brisket sandwiches, full menu at 6:30 in the morning. The full menu extends through the rest of the day.”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Grecian Gourmet to Close on South Main

Grecian Gourmet Taverna will close its doors on South Main in November, citing customer bases that have not yet rebounded from the Covid-19 pandemic. The Greek restaurant announced the move on Facebook Tuesday morning, calling it a “very difficult decision.”  

“We’ve worked so hard to build back, but we had to [take] stock of our life and time spent in the restaurant…

Grecian Gourmet

”Covid was hard on all of us, but especially the small businesses that survive on local business lunch and tourism, neither of which have yet rebounded to pre-pandemic numbers — and we’re tired,” reads the post. “We’ve worked so hard to build back, but we had to [take] stock of our life and time spent in the restaurant, and decided it’s time to focus on how we started — and make it even better.”

The restaurant began in 2017 in the Memphis Farmers Market. The owners signed a lease for the South Main restaurant space in December of that year. 

The restaurant will be reborn as “Grecian Gourmet Kitchen” and focus on retail and catering from a new space in East Memphis. 

The restaurant’s last open day downtown will be Wednesday, November 23rd.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

The Second Line Restaurant Changes Its Identity For a Week

Fino’s from the Hill will temporarily close its doors at 1853 Madison Avenue and relocate to nearby The Second Line at 2144 Monroe. Both restaurants are owned by chef Kelly English.

According to a text from marketing director for Iris Group LLC Caleb Sigler, the restaurant will be closed between September 19th and 25th. 

The Second Line will have a new name and feature a different type of cuisine during that week.

“The building they [Fino’s] are located in is having main water line renovations, so we decided to do something special for you,” Sigler says. “Introducing Steve & Todd’s Creole Italian PopUp! The Second Line will convert to a Creole Italian restaurant for the week serving lunch and dinner from Monday to Sunday with brunch on Saturday and Sunday. A full new menu will include items like stuffed eggplant (cheese stuffed with crabmeat cream sauce), sweet heat oysters, muffulettas, baked ziti, eggplant parm, sautéed red snapper topped with shrimp and crawfish and a crabmeat cream sauce, grilled shrimp or oysters over pasta Bordelaise, spaghetti and meatballs, and more.

A popup is coming to The Second Line for a week. (Credit: Caleb Sigler)

Our teams at both our restaurants have been hard at work to make this the most enjoyable and tasty event possible. You don’t want to miss this. Last time we did a popup it turned into Pantá.”

Pantá is another Kelly English restaurant, which took the place of Restaurant Iris, which will itself open where The Grove Grill once operated in Laurelwood Shopping Center.

Some items from Fino’s and Second Line will be included at Steve & Todd’s Creole Italian PopUp. “There are a few items from both restaurants, but not the full menu,” Sigler says.

The Second Line will have a new name and feature different cuisine during that week.

So, who are “Steve” and “Todd?” “The name is sort of a joke,” Sigler says. “Steve Richey is a co-owner of the company and Todd English is Kelly’s brother. Derk Meitzler is the general manager of Second Line and Pantá, and Matthew Crysup is the manager of Fino’s. This is their baby.”

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

“Anatomy Eats” Dinner Serves Up the Whole Animal

Heart tacos. Kidney fried rice. Bone marrow ice cream. Not items that you would see on your traditional restaurant menu. But for those seeking something new to eat, Dr. Jonathan Reisman is bringing his Anatomy Eats dinner series to Oxford, Mississippi in October.

The doctor and foodie launched his Anatomy Eats series in Philadelphia, and has used the events as a platform to showcase how various animal organs function and are used in cuisine. In essence, it’s both a fine dining experience, and a lesson in anatomy and physiology.

“We always had liver when I was a kid and I hated it,” says Reisman. “But then in medical school, I started learning more about organs, how complicated and amazing they are, and how they function to keep us healthy. And the biology and complexity of these organs is similar between humans and animals. It got me thinking about all these kind of unorthodox parts of the animal that are used for cooking.”

At a barbecue, Reisman’s wife introduced him to chef Ari Miller (who runs Musi BYOB in Philadelphia), and the two got to talking about their medicinal and culinary backgrounds. They both had an interest in exploring underutilized parts of the animal, and eventually partnered to host several Anatomy Eats dinners together.

Dr. Jonathan Reisman (Credit: Anatomy Eats)

“Each dinner was based on a bodily system,” says Reisman. “For example, we did a cardiovascular-themed dinner, where we served hearts cooked in three different ways, and some bone marrow dishes. We’ve also done dinners focused around the digestive system, or the musculoskeletal system.”

After several successful dinners in Pennsylvania, Reisman is looking to connect with new chefs around the country to put their unique spin on future anatomy dinners. Next up on October 2nd and 3rd are dinners hosted alongside Halima Salazar and Dria Price of Gimbia’s Kitchen. As part of the event, Reisman will dissect a cow heart and discuss the other physiological aspects of the animals used as part of the courses.

“For the culinary side, Halima is Nigerian and Dria is from Mississippi,” says Reisman. “So, they’ll be exploring an overlap of West African and Southern cuisine, and how culinary styles of each background complement each other. The menu includes two kinds of tacos, with cow heart strips in either a peanut marinade or balsamic vinegar. There’s hog’s head cheese as part of a charcuterie board, and we’ve got a traditional Nigerian recipe called pepper soup, which will have intestines and liver in a spicy broth with calabash, nutmeg, and lemongrass.”

Other courses include beef kidney fried rice combined with sweet creamy honey beans, and Gbegiri and pounded yam: pureed black-eyed peas and beef tongue stew with crispy pounded yam balls.

So far, Reisman says that his Anatomy Eats dinners have garnered plenty of interest. For others, he recognizes that his dinner menus might seem unappealing. But he argues that diners don’t need an adventurous palate to enjoy one of the Anatomy Eats courses.

“I think liver is the most recognizable thing that we serve,” he says, “and it probably has the strongest taste of any internal organ. So, I think it’s a misconception that you need to be brave to try many of these things; heart, kidney, and bone marrow should all have tastes which are pleasing to people who eat more traditional meat dishes. So, you can still use the whole animal, be sustainable, and enjoy the whole experience.”

Looking forward, Reisman hopes to connect with many more chefs around the country who can share their unique culinary experiences. After all, says Reisman, there are so many different ways to sustainably cook animals that aren’t common in most of the United States.

“I’ve traveled a lot, both recreationally and for work,” says Reisman. “I toured through India volunteering at hospitals, lived in Russia at one point, and did some work as a doctor on ships in the arctic and near Alaska. Every place I’ve had the opportunity to see new approaches to food.”

Reisman was most impressed by traditional native Alaskan techniques.

“They take meat-based cuisine to an incredible extreme,” he says. While working in Alaska, he tried plenty of seal heart and seal blubber. “The blubber they render down into an oil, which is kind of used as an all-purpose dip, flavoring, seasoning.”

And another interesting dish? Whale meat.

“We had plenty of whale meat and blubber, much of it raw. There’s a traditional dish called Mikigaq that I had a lot, which is whale meat fermented in whale blood. There are just so many interesting ways to approach and create food, and Anatomy Eats hopefully will show people different ways to do that.”

Anatomy of Fine Dining with Dr. Jonathan Reisman will take place at Snackbar in Oxford, MS, on October 2nd and 3rd at 6:00 p.m. Click here for tickets and more information.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Best Bets: Arepa de Choclo at El Sabor Latino

I like when things like this happen.

I was eating at El Sabor Latino for a story I was doing on the Colombian restaurant. I began talking to some fellow diners when one of them offered me some of the pancake-looking item he was eating. He wanted me to try it.

I did. And now I’m hooked.

It’s an “arepa de choclo.” It’s sort of a pancake and sort of Southern cornbread. It’s sweet, but not very sweet. It has a great corn taste to it. It’s topped with a flat piece of cheese. And it comes with two pats of butter.

I love sweet and savory, so this fit the bill perfectly for me.

I asked El Sabor Latino owner Samir Restrepo to fill me in on this tasty whatever-you-call-it.

“Arepa is a cornbread,” Restrepo says. “It’s made with sweet corn flour.”

The cheese, he says, is “queso fresco,” he says. “It’s a white cheese.”

They serve arepas de choclo as an appetizer at El Sabor Latino. In Colombia, he says, they eat them in the morning as a breakfast item or at night as a dessert “with chocolate or coffee.”

The Colombian platter, which comes with a variety of Colombian items, includes the regular arepa, which is made with whole corn instead of the sweet corn flour.

In case you think you’re getting something even sweeter, “choclo” doesn’t mean “chocolate.” “‘Choclo’ is the sweet corn. In Colombia we call it ‘sweet corn.’”

A little background on Restrepo. He’s from Cali, Colombia. In 2003, he moved to Memphis, where he and his wife, Yuri Guzman, and her parents Carlos Ruiz and Esneth Azevedo decided to open a Colombian restaurant in Memphis, with Guzman and Azevedo, who owned El Punto del Sabor restaurant in Colombia, as chefs.

Restrepo plans to open his second restaurant, El Pollo Latino, in late September or early October. The restaurant will feature oven-roasted chicken cooked on a rotisserie. I can’t wait for that.

After I finished my arepa de choclo, I had to go next door to Kay Bakery for a gingerbread man, one of my favorite cookies. They use the bakery’s original cookie cutter and the original recipe for the gingerbread men, says Queo Bautista, who, along with his brother, Misael Bautista, bought the bakery in 2007.

El Sabor Latino is at 665 Avon Road; (901) 207-1818.

Kay Bakery is at 667 Avon Road; (901) 767-0780.

Gingerbread man at Kay Bakery (Credit: Michael Donahue)
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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Best Bets: Chicken Salad and Frozen Fruit at Mortimer’s

If I could only have one thing to eat in this world, it would be chicken salad and frozen fruit at Mortimer’s restaurant. That sounds like two things, but it’s a combo.

My love affair with this Mortimer’s lunch item began when my sister and I began ordering it in the late 1960s or early ’70s at The Little Tea Shop, which was owned at the time by the late Vernon Bell, father of Sara Bell, who now owns Mortimer’s. Mortimer’s uses some recipes that were carried over from the old Little Tea Shop as well as the old Knickerbocker restaurant, which also was owned by Vernon.

Frozen fruit was taken off the menu at The Little Tea Shop a long time ago. I asked one of the restaurant’s veteran servers for the recipe, which she wrote out for me. I tried to make it, but I didn’t know enough about cooking to follow her directions at that time.

It looks like ice cream, but it’s actually made out of marshmallows, fruit cocktail, whipping cream, and topped with cream cheese and cherry juice, which makes the cream cheese pink. When I order it at the bar, I get questions from curious customers who want to know what it is. One person thought it was mashed potatoes.

Chicken salad and frozen fruit at Mortimer’s restaurant (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Years ago, I had a newspaper assignment to write about chicken salads around town. I hadn’t been to Mortimer’s in years. I ordered it from Kris Robertson, who was a server at the time. Then I heard longtime bartender/manager, Mark Esterman, call from the bar, “Does he want frozen fruit?”

I was so excited I’m sure I looked and acted like an idiot. With my mouth twisted into a big gaping smile, I probably yelled, “You have frozen fruit???!!!” After that, I became a Mortimer’s regular. And now 95 percent of the time, I order chicken salad and frozen fruit. It’s a lunch item, but they usually have some left over at dinner time.

I love sweet and savory dishes, so that duo is perfect. I remember being told that my old Memphis Press-Scimitar colleague, the late George Lapides, was a fan of chicken salad and frozen fruit at Mortimer’s.

I called Christopher Jamieson, Sarah’s son and also an owner of Mortimer’s, about the history of my favorite culinary combination.

“It’s popular among the people that know it, if that makes sense,” Jamieson says. “It’s a hard thing to describe. It really doesn’t make sense to most people until they put their eyes on it and try it. I have the same people that come in for it every week.”

Frozen fruit is particularly popular in the summertime, Jamieson says. “With it being cold and kind of refreshing, in a sense. So, anybody with a sweet tooth certainly enjoys it.”

Note: I wrote about the prime rib at Mortimer’s in the February issue of Memphis magazine. I think that’s why my name is now on the sign in front. It reads, “Michael Donahue Says Try Morts You Will Love It.” I’m honored, of course. I like to sit by the window closest to the sign in case somebody comes by my table. I can motion toward the sign with my eyes.

Mortimer’s is at 590 North Perkins Road, (901) 761-9321.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Sneak Peek at the New Restaurant Iris

OK. I’m just going to say it. Or write it, rather. The new Restaurant Iris is going to be the prettiest restaurant in Memphis.

It’s stunning.

Owner Kelly English, who says he doesn’t know when the restaurant will open, gave me a tour of his new eating establishment at 4550 Poplar Avenue in the Laurelwood Shopping Center. It’s where the old restaurant, The Grove Grill, was located. Restaurant Iris’s former location is where English’s restaurant, Panta, now is located.

The view when I opened the door at the new Restaurant Iris almost knocked me down. Not really. But mentally. It was a jolt. In a good way.

This is what a fabulous, elegant contemporary restaurant looks like in your dreams. A lot of color and energy.  

Restaurant Iris foyer and main dining room (Credit: Michael Donahue)

You move from the green-and-white mosaic floor at the entrance into the beautiful main dining room with Italian glass fixtures that resemble colorful balloons because of the light bulbs that are run by an LED lighting system. They feature the full spectrum of colors, including blue, purple, pink, green, and yellow. English showed me how the colors can be manipulated at a control panel off the main dining room.

Ann Parker and her team at Parker Design Studio designed the interior of Restaurant Iris. “That lighting system operates throughout the whole restaurant,” she says. “You are in control of the perfect lighting of light levels and clarity of light and color traces.”

And she says, “You will always look beautiful in the restaurant. So, be careful.”

The serpentine booths in the center give the restaurant so much movement and energy that I almost fell down again. Also in a good way.

Serpentine booths in the main dining room at Restaurant Iris (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Those who remember entering the old Justine’s restaurant will remember the chandeliers, the French-inspired antiques, and the black-and-white flooring at the entry way. Restaurant Iris achieves this same opulent sensation, but with contemporary furnishings instead of antiques. 

Both Justine’s and Restaurant Iris have that New Orleans feel. English, who everybody probably knows by know, is from New Orleans. So, the restaurant is a great reflection of the Crescent City. Come to think of it, those center booths in the main dining room are crescent shaped, actually. Was this an accident?

The whimsical and beautiful mural of a Louisiana landscape in the main dining room is by local artist Dorothy Collier. 

Dorothy Collier painted the mural in the main dining room (Credit: Michael Donahue)

But don’t get me wrong. This place feels fun. Not stiff. People are going to have a good time here. And create memories. 

“The process was to create a space that was emulating the old Iris on lots of levels,” Parker says. “And we mimicked a lot of that in some of the color tones and then taking it to the next level: an elevated level of its old location and all that will offer.”

The concept? “We were wanting to play with your senses. The food will play with your senses as much as your environment.”

When I looked to my left on entering the restaurant, I saw shelving. That’s for the restaurant’s “grab and go” grocery store, English says. It will include everything from pickles and canned goods to prepared family meals.”

When I looked to my right, I saw the spacious bar and oyster bar. In addition to ordering by the bottle, the bar will feature 29 wines, two champagnes, and two sparkling wines by the glass.

A portion of the Restaurant Iris bar (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Restaurant Iris oyster bar (Credit: Michael Donahue)

The restaurant has four private dining rooms that can accomodate both small or large groups. The mural depicting a garden party on the wall in the larger private room is spectacular.

A Restaurant Iris private dining room (Credit: Michael Donahue)
A private dining room at Restaurant Iris (Credit: Michael Donahue)
A mural of a garden party graces walls in a private dining room at the new Restaurant Iris (Credit: Michael Donahue)

The kitchen is enormous — 3,500 square feet, English says.

Restaurant Iris kitchen (Credit: Michael Donahue)

The bathrooms are gorgeous.

Restaurant Iris women’s bathroom (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Restaurant Iris men’s bathroom (Credit: Michael Donahue

And now — the food. It’s also going to be gorgeous and delicious. Executive chef Russell Casey says, “We’re going to do classic New Orleans cuisine. More upscale. Think Galatoire’s with my footprint, hand print, whatever you want to call it all through the menu.”

Restaurant Iris executive chef Russell Casey (Credit: Michael Donahue)

A menu item “closely related” to what Casey does is his “pan-seared flounder with speckled lima beans, succotash, béarnaise, and jumbo lump crabmeat.”

Casey also will feature “tons” of his sides, which will be featured à la carte. “But we’re putting that New Orleans stamp on it.”

Casey, who used to bus tables as a teenager at The Grove Grill, is amazed at the transformation of the space. He’s worked with many chefs at several restaurants, but, Stephen Hassinger, who was executive chef at the old Inn at Hunt Phelan, was his biggest inspiration. “Every person who was in that kitchen has gone on to do wonderful things. I think it starts with Stephen Hassinger. He’s been so influential in turning out some great chefs when Memphis really was kind of in its infancy stage of becoming a culinary destination. Which I think we are well on our way to if not already there instead of just a barbecue destination.”

When I asked how he felt, English said, “Great.”

“Iris will return to the true roots it set out at with added space to achieve it,” he says. “We will be a classic Creole restaurant in every sense of the term, with dishes you remember from the early years of Iris, an oyster bar, daily lunch. All of that and you get Russell Casey’s food, too.

“We really wanted to maximize the space we had — both in the dining rooms and the kitchen — to best support our team. I think we have done that. Ann Parker and team have done a phenomenal job of bringing a space that did not exist in Memphis to life that we think will be a great complement to the larger restaurant community that we already have here.”

Kelly English, owner of Restaurant Iris (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Restaurant Iris in Laurelwood Shopping Center (Credit: Michael Donahue)
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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Best Bets: Stuffed Celery (and Cool T-shirts) at Pete & Sam’s

I recently discovered two things I didn’t know about Pete & Sam’s Italian restaurant.

The stuffed celery I’ve seen on the menu for decades is absolutely delicious.

And they have a great T-shirt bearing a picture of the late Sam Bomarito as “The Godfather” from the 1972 movie of the same name.

First, the stuffed celery. Someone in the group I was with recently ordered it. It comes with black olives, peppers, and lots of lettuce with paprika sprinkled around. You get four celery sticks.

I was blown away. I took a photo and posted it on Facebook. As of this writing, that post has 222 “likes,”  69 comments, and four shares. And you know how we all like “likes.”

I called Sammy Bomarito, one of the restaurant owners, to ask him about the history of their stuffed celery and the T-shirts with the picture of his father, one of the founders of the restaurant.

The gorgonzola cheese-based celery sticks filling includes mayonnaise, garlic, and green onions, Sammy says. “We’ve always had it on the menu,” he says. “It’s been on the menu for as long as I can remember.”

He’s not sure who put it on the menu, but he thinks it was “one of Miss Vita’s dishes.” That’s the late Vita Gattuso, Sam’s sister. “Something she came up with.”

It seems like I’ve seen the stuffed celery sticks on the menu forever, but I never ordered them. “It’s always been popular,” Sammy says.  “It’s kind of one of those hidden things. If you’re zipping over the appetizers your eye might go to the toasted raviolis or something else. But it’s always been there.”

When I went to Pete & Sam’s the other night so server Gabe Roberts could take a photo of me for the story, I asked server Nick Musarra about the stuffed celery. He says, “I sold six or seven of them last night.”

Stuffed celery at Pete & Sam’s (Credit: Michael Donahue)

As for those T-shirts, they’ve been around for four years, Sammy says. His brother, Michael Bomarito, also an owner of the restaurant, designed it. “It was based on The Godfather and he substituted Sam’s picture for it.”

The T-shirts have been “very popular,” Sammy says. “We’ve had probably four or five T-shirt runs on those, for sure.”

And, he says, they’ve probably sold 1,000 of the T-shirts over the years.

So, slip on a T-shirt and kick back with a tray of stuffed celery sticks and maybe a basket-wrapped bottle of chianti and imagine Nino Rota’s theme from The Godfather playing in the background.

But it might have to contend with one of Pete & Sam’s Frank Sinatra recordings.

Pete & Sam’s is at 3886 Park Avenue; (901) 458-0694