Category: Food & Drink

Bhan Thai is located about half a block west of the intersection of Peabody and Cleveland, near Crump Stadium. The main entrance to this converted home brings its patrons into a quaint bar area. A hostess greeted us immediately and seated us in the main dining area. The room accommodates about 25 guests. Smaller dining rooms surround the main area and create very intimate gathering spaces. The interior of the restaurant is filled with color, from the bright red and yellow fabric on the chairs to the paintings that adorn the walls. Behind the restaurant is a deck with an outdoor fireplace and a cozy dining area featuring a pianist.

But enough about the ambience. Let’s move on to the food.

For starters, we chose the crab Rangoon and the featured appetizer, green-lipped mussels. The mussels were drizzled in a curry cream sauce and decorated with large slices of white onion and red peppers. This vibrant dish paled only when compared to its taste. The plump mussels had been steamed perfectly, and I was pleased that the mussels’ delicate flavor could be heightened by the sweetness of onions and peppers without the sauce drowning them. Unfortunately, the crab Rangoon did not live up to our expectations. The wontons came minus the crab but with a lot of sweet cream cheese. A sweet-and-sour sauce accompanied the dish but wasn’t needed.

We bypassed the soups and ordered the signature Bhan Thai salad, which was generous and plenty for two. A pile of fresh mixed greens topped with sliced boiled eggs, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, bell peppers, and fried tofu came drizzled with a creamy peanut dressing. Crispy fried noodles capped this salad and gave it a saltiness and definite crunch.

While we zeroed in on appetizers and the salad with ease, choosing our entrées proved more difficult. So many options — diners can have chicken, beef, pork, shrimp, or tofu added to each entrée, curry, noodle, or fried-rice dish, excepting the house specials.

Our first selection was the cashew nuts with beef: cashews with chopped red peppers, broccoli, onions, carrots, and thinly sliced, tender steak served with a spicy chili sauce. This dish had great curb appeal, and the sauce gave a nice burst of flavor to the vegetables. The “Eight Angels,” a house specialty, was not so special. The menu description — “sautéed shrimp, chicken, pork, and beef with asparagus, carrots, shitake mushrooms and baby corn in a delightful mild brown sauce” — sounded wonderful. I believe the sauce contained a fish or oyster sauce. Either way, it was just too bland. This dish had everything going for it, from presentation to ingredients. It just fell short in its delivery.

For my entrée, I ordered the sliced boneless roasted duck in a spicy red-curry cream sauce. The anticipation almost got the best of me. The sauce cradled not only the most tender duck I have had in a long time but also chunks of fresh pineapple, green and purple grapes, tomatoes, bell peppers, and basil. I admit to being disappointed that the dish came on a plate rather than in the pineapple shell described on the menu, but don’t get me wrong: I cannot complain about this entrée.

Finally, we had the “Three Companions,” another large-portion pleaser with its three good-sized lambchops smothered in chopped red and green bell peppers and onions, Bhan Thai’s signature spicy basil sauce, and freshly chopped sweet basil used as a garnish. The lamb was prepared perfectly, tender with a slightly pink center. The only recommendation I can make is for the chef to select a leaner cut of meat. As with all of the dishes, the jasmine rice was a flavorful addition to this house specialty.

As if we had not had enough, we inquired about dessert. Our waiter explained that Thai cuisine is not big on desserts, and the only item on the menu that evening was a chilled mango. We declined, and, stuffed though we were, we left Bhan Thai hoping for more.

Bhan Thai is located at 1324 Peabody. Lunch: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday. Dinner: 5 to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday and 5 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Currently, Bhan Thai offers wine and beer. Reservations are not accepted. Take-outs are welcome. 272-1538.

I had heard many things about Paulette’s sister, Three Oaks Grill, but I needed to come to my own conclusions. So on a Saturday night about 7, my friends and I arrived at Three Oaks Grill in Germantown, across the street from the Germantown Commissary. We were escorted through the first dining room and into a larger dining room in the rear of the restaurant. The two rooms have distinct atmospheres. The warm and earthy ambience in the first room is set by its wood paneling. The second, larger room seats about 80 and is airier due to its surrounding glass doors. Cozy booths, exposed wood beams, hardwood floors, and a stucco fireplace would make this a great space for functions.

We kicked things off with the crab cakes. This crab was treated with respect: It was not overpowered by the breading nor was it mixed to the point of being unidentifiable. The warm rémoulade sauce served with the cakes was a perfect match. We then tried the roasted red pepper. This appetizer was proof that simplicity in cooking can create the most rewarding dishes — a bright-red pepper, seeded, roasted, and filled with mozzarella and herbs then sprinkled with goat cheese. The purity of the flavors needed little dressing, and the crostini made delectable companions.

For soup, we chose the corn-and-bacon chowder. The lightly creamed chicken broth of the chowder cradled cubed potatoes, sweet corn, and smoked bacon. Though my companions enjoyed the soup, I couldn’t help but think it was a mis-order for a warm August evening.

More refreshing were the salads. The Caesar was true to form — crisp romaine lettuce in a creamy dressing with crusty croutons and shaved Parmesan cheese. The Bel-Air salad, a mix of dried cherries, Mandarin oranges, walnuts, and balls of walnut-encrusted goat cheese over fresh greens tossed in orange vinaigrette, was a bit lackluster. Perhaps toasting the walnuts would help. The warm apple-and-pear salad was a winner. Freshly cooked, warm pieces of apple and pear clung to mixed greens that were drizzled with walnut vinaigrette and crumbled Gorgonzola cheese. The fruit, cheese, and hint of walnut in the dressing exploded on the palate. My companion was sincerely surprised at how good this salad was.

Now, at this point, you may be wondering about the garden salad. Well, so were we. Our waiter, with apparently too many tables to cover, had forgotten to put the order in. He apologized and offered to get one immediately, but we declined, since we were hopeful our entrées would arrive soon. We were wrong, and now seems the perfect time to warn would-be patrons. While you may make a reservation for dinner at Three Oaks Grill — and I suggest you do — plan on about three hours for dinner for a party of four. The restaurant was not full or overwhelmingly busy for a Saturday night, and the staff was extremely polite and apologetic, but

Enough lecturing — let’s move on to the entrées.

The menu at Three Oaks resembles Paulette’s, though the entrées are a more diversified selection of seafood, poultry, beef, and pork dishes. We picked the New Zealand rack of lamb — rib chops oven-roasted and topped with a Pinot Noir sauce. New Zealand lamb is of the highest quality because no hormones or steroids are given to the animals. The meat was so tender, no knife was needed, and the richness of the Pinot Noir grape gave the dish its burgundy color and balance. Our next dish, the halibut with crabmeat, was a large, moist, flaky fillet stuffed to bursting with rich crabmeat topped with a fresh tarragon cream sauce, and served with baby carrots.

Veal is one of my favorite meats, and Three Oaks’ veal tenderloin with apple-y brandy sauce was too enticing to pass up. I was not disappointed. Thick slices of grilled tenderloin mingled in an almost golden brandy cream sauce. The sweetness of the sauce was enhanced with diced shallots and tempered with the earthiness of sliced mushrooms. This veal was so very tender and came with two crisply fried potato leek cakes.

The filet Paulette, however, was disappointing. The menu called for a Black Angus filet mignon lightly coated with cracked black pepper. What my companion received was an extremely small, overcooked filet that could hardly be sliced with a knife. The filet sat dwarfed in the middle of a large white plate in a sauce of butter, cream with tomatoes, onion, and bell peppers. The accompanying garlic whipped potatoes were the best thing about this dish.

Since the portions at Three Oaks Grill were reasonable, we were left with room for dessert. The Key lime pie had a buttery graham-cracker crust, a tangy Key lime filling, and a sweet dollop of fresh whipped cream. The bread pudding was warm and rich with plump raisins and cinnamon. It was delicious with the café au lait we ordered. Grand Marnier, unfortunately, overpowered the beautiful strawberry crepe with fresh whipped cream.

Three Oaks Grill (757-8225 ) is located at 2285 South Germantown Road,and is open Sunday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. for lunch and 5 to 9 p.m. for dinner, and Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 p.m. for dinner. Appetizers range from $6.95 to $10.95, soups and salads from $3.50 to $6.95, and entrées from $16.95 to $26.95. Full bar and an extensive wine list are also available.

The menu at downtown’s Amber Palace delivers many options to the Indian-food enthusiast. It’s sorted by appetizers, soups, tandoori, complete dinners, vegetables, seafood dishes, entrées, chef’s specialties, breads, biryanis, extras (chutney and pickles), desserts, and beverages. If there is not a dish on this menu to tempt you, you really shouldn’t be in an Indian restaurant.

We kicked things off with the aloo tikki — “kick” being the operative word here. While the menu said these potato-and-peas-filled deep-fried fritters were mildly spiced, the cayenne will clear your sinuses. (Consider this a warning: While you’re asked to specify mild, medium, or spicy for your entrées, even the mild has some oomph.) The vegetable pakoras were fritters with cauliflower, eggplant, and onions. These fritters were very good — lightly spiced with a nutty flavor, deep-fried, and served with chutney. The murg pakoras should have been called boneless chicken strips with a little cumin in the batter. They were tasty but ordinary, uneventful.

For our first entrée, we had the murg tandoori, a chicken breast and thigh marinated in yogurt, lemon, a little garlic, ginger, chili, garam masala, and a little food coloring to make the chicken a vibrant red. The chicken came hot in a black skillet with slivered white onions and lime wedges. My dining companion considered it a little dry (it was just the way I like it) but found the flavors to be quite appealing. Next up: the chana palak, fresh spinach cooked curry-style with garbanzo beans, herbs, and served with white basmati rice speckled with black caraway seeds. The spinach had a creamy consistency, and its layers of flavors made it the perfect mate for the garlic naan. Naan is flat leavened bread traditionally slapped onto the walls of a tandoor oven to bake while the meat is cooking. Our naan had been seasoned with a touch of garlic that, with the richness of the spinach, made a very filling and welcome addition to our meal.

The mixed tandoori was murg tandoori, murg tikka (tandoori-roasted boneless chicken), sheesh kabob with lamb, shahi lamb kabab (marinated lamb skewered over hot charcoal), and shrimp. The sheesh kabab’s lamb had been ground and had a curry flavor. The shrimp was like rubber, but the lamb had the tenderness of a piece of filet mignon — no knife needed. The best entrée we ordered had to be the lamb biryanis with raita. Biryanis are made up of basmati rice and meat and/or a vegetable in a curry sauce with raisins and nuts. The lamb biryanis came mounded on a large plate and served with a side of raita (a creamy mixture of yogurt with a hint of sweet-tart apples and the nutty flavor of roasted cumin seed). Its bright red color and sweet spicy flavor (both traits from the curry, paprika, and turmeric) mixed with tender, moist lamb that melted in your mouth. As I enjoyed the mingling of the flavors, I bit into a plump golden raisin. The sweetness of the raisin and yogurt mixture tempered the curry and gave the dish richness and depth. I looked for the nuts the menu mentioned would be in the dish but never found any. They really weren’t missed. The biryanis was delicious without them.

By this point, we were stuffed and had enough left over to feed all of us for days — trust me, the Amber Palace is generous with its portions. And yet we ordered dessert anyway. We chose to share the kulfi, an Indian-style ice cream, which had the consistency of ice cream blended with gelatin. The kulfi was extremely sweet, though the saltiness of pistachios and almonds helped even out the flavor. I enjoyed it and I am glad we ordered it, but it was a bit sweet for me.

As my companions and I relaxed after this delightful meal, we reflected on our experience and checked out the décor. The restaurant is painted bright royal-blue and gold. The black metal chairs and white cloth-covered tables seat about 100 patrons comfortably and give the restaurant a very modern feel. Amber Palace has strategically placed televisions in the front and back of the restaurant showing Indian music videos. I am not really a fan of any television being in a restaurant (unless it is a sports bar/restaurant) and definitely found them distracting. The wait staff is knowledgeable, helpful, and attentive without being obtrusive.

Amber Palace is located at 97 South Second Street (578-9800) across from The Peabody. Lunch hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Dinner hours: 5 to10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Appetizers and soups range from $1 to $5.95, entrées $7.95 to $12.95, and desserts $2.50 to $2.95.

If there’s one thing we all know about Elvis, it’s that he loved to eat. Greasy, gooey cheeseburgers. Crispy, deep-fried okra. Buttery biscuits with red-eye gravy. And those famous fried peanut-butter-and-‘nanner sandwiches.

So what better way to honor the King during tribute week than to host an Elvis-themed dinner party? Invite all your closest friends, then stuff their faces with a feast fit for the King himself.

For starters, you have to create the right ambience. Entertain your guests with some Elvis tunes (on vinyl, if you’ve got it) or pop in some classic Elvis films for guests to watch as they await their meal. Encourage guests to come dressed as their favorite Elvis-era personality, such as Marilyn Monroe, James Dean, or Priscilla. At my Elvis party, dressing up was optional, so, of course, no one came in costume. Take away that option by offering a cash prize for the best-dressed. You’ll find that money can inspire creativity.

Decor is also important. Place an eye-catching centerpiece like a giant ceramic peacock on your dining table. I chose to serve guests on gold plates for that Graceland feel.

Now, the fun part: food. For planning the menu, there are a number of Elvis cookbooks to check out as well as several Web sites devoted to Elvis’ favorite recipes. Or, since Elvis liked basic Southern down-home cooking, anything your grandma made will probably work.

I chose a four-course menu made up of my adapted versions of recipes I found in my mother’s collection of Elvis cookbooks and a few recipes from the Jalapeño Chicks’ Elvis Style Seasonings Web site, Elvisstyleseasonings.com. A set of very original spice mixes created by two Memphis women, Cindy Hazen and Betty Harper, can be purchased on the site.

For starters, I fed my guests Elvis-style potato chips and Jailhouse Rock dip, a heavy-on-the-barbecue pair made with the Jalapeño Chicks’ Jailhouse Rock BBQ seasoning, and classic fried peanut-butter-and-banana sandwiches, a must-have at any Elvis party. Next was a hearty potato-cheese soup. The main course consisted of Jailhouse skillet supper (kind of like Hamburger Helper), baked macaroni-and-cheese, Beale Street Blues baked beans, and cornbread based on a recipe that supposedly came from Mary Jenkins, Elvis’ personal cook. For dessert, I made fried apple pies.

By dessert, though, my guests all claimed to be too full to eat another bite. Considering the King’s love for sweets, he probably turned over in his grave. So this is the last tip: Always invite people who will come prepared to eat and eat a lot. In fact, fasting before an Elvis dinner party is not a bad idea. If you’re going to honor the King, you should come prepared to eat like one. n

Recipes

There are a million possibilities for an Elvis-themed dinner-party menu, but here are a few recipes I’ve test-driven that have proven to be crowd-pleasers. Note: These dishes can be made vegetarian-friendly with meat substitutes.

APPETIZERS

Elvis-style Potato Chips

(courtesy of the Jalapeño Chicks)

Serves 4-6

1 bag unsalted potato chips

Elvis Style Jailhouse Rock BBQ seasoning to taste

Place potato chips in a large bowl. Microwave for 30 seconds or until warm so the oil will rise to the surface. Place chips in a large plastic bag and sprinkle with Elvis Style Jailhouse Rock BBQ seasoning to taste. Shake well. Serve.

Jailhouse Rock Dip

(courtesy of the Jalapeño Chicks)

Serves 4-6

8 oz. sour cream

2 Tbsp. Elvis Style Jailhouse Rock BBQ seasoning

Stir Elvis Style Jailhouse Rock BBQ seasoning into sour cream. Chill several hours before serving with potato chips, raw vegetables, or crackers.

Fried Peanut-Butter-and-Banana

Sandwiches

Serves 6

3 ripe bananas

6 slices white bread

9 Tbsp. peanut butter

6 Tbsp. butter

1 tsp. brown sugar

In a small bowl, mash bananas with a fork. Mix bananas with peanut butter and brown sugar and mix well. Lightly toast bread in a toaster then spread peanut butter mixture on one side and butter on the other. Fry the sandwiches in a nonstick skillet. Cut into quarters and serve.

SOUP

Cheesy Potato Soup

Serves 4-6

2 Tbsp. butter

1/3 cup thinly chopped celery

1/3 cup thinly chopped onion

4 cups peeled russet potatoes, cubed

2 cans vegetable broth

2 cups milk

salt and pepper to taste

dash paprika

2 cups shredded cheddar cheese

1 can french-fried onions

Melt butter in a large pot, add celery and onion, cooking over medium heat until tender. Add potato cubes and vegetable broth and simmer about 10 minutes. Pour soup mixture into a blender and blend until smooth. Return the mixture to the pot and stir in milk, salt, pepper, and paprika. Heat 10 minutes and slowly add cheese, stirring until melted. Garnish with french-fried onions. Serve.

ENTREE

Jailhouse Skillet Supper

(courtesy of the Jalapeño Chicks)

Serves 4-6

1 lb. ground beef or 1 pkg. frozen vegetarian burger crumbles

8 oz. wagon-wheel pasta

1 cup sour cream

1 can cream of mushroom soup

3 Tbsp. Elvis Style Jailhouse Rock BBQ

seasoning

Cook pasta. Brown ground beef or vegetarian crumbles in a large skillet. When beef or crumbles brown, add drained pasta, sour cream, cream of mushroom soup, and Elvis Style Jailhouse Rock BBQ seasoning. Heat thoroughly and serve.

SIDE DISHES

Baked Macaroni-and-Cheese

Serves 4-6

8 oz. elbow macaroni

2 cups cubed Velveeta

1 Tbsp. flour

2 Tbsp. finely chopped onion

1/4 tsp. dry mustard

salt and pepper to taste

1 cup milk

1 1/2 Tbsp. butter

1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Cook macaroni. In a mixing bowl, combine Velveeta cubes with flour, onion, mustard, salt, and pepper. Drain cooked macaroni and pour over cheese mixture. Transfer to a buttered casserole dish and add milk. Top with shredded cheese and dot with butter. Bake 45 minutes or until cheese is golden-brown. Serve.

Beale Street Blues Baked Beans

Serves 4-6

3 strips bacon or 3 strips vegetarian bacon cut into long, thin strips

1/2 medium onion, chopped

1 32-oz. can pork and beans

1 cup brown sugar

1/2 cup ketchup

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a skillet, sauté onions and bacon in a little oil. In a mixing bowl, combine bacon and onions with beans, brown sugar, and ketchup and mix well. Pour the mixture into a medium-sized baking dish and bake for 30 minutes. Serve.

Elvis’ Favorite Cornbread

(from The Presley Family & Friends Cookbook)

Serves 4-6

1 tsp. oil

2 cups cornmeal

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 Tbsp. baking powder

1 1/2 Tbsp. sugar

2 1/2 cups buttermilk

3 eggs

1/4 cup oil

In a skillet, heat teaspoon of oil and a little cornmeal. Mix remaining ingredients and pour into skillet. Cook until golden-brown and serve.

DESSERT

Fried Apple Pies

Serves 6

1 12-oz. can biscuits

12 Tbsp. apple-pie filling

2 Tbsp. oil

Roll out individual canned biscuits very thin and try to keep the circle shape. Spoon two tablespoons apple-pie filling on half of the circle. Fold and crimp edges. Poke holes in pies to allow steam to escape. Fry in oil over medium heat until both sides are golden-brown. Serve with vanilla ice cream, if you like.

Pardon me if I sound like a cheesy advertisement, but, wow, has downtown changed — the bright lights, the new buildings, the entrepreneurial spirit, and especially the new restaurants. One of the newest is Felicia Suzanne’s, located in the Brinkley Plaza building. Owner/chef Felicia Willett (Suzanne is her mother) previously worked with super-celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse, producing his cooking show and assisting with his books Every Day’s a Party and Emeril’s TV Dinners.

Felicia Suzanne’s makes an awesome first impression. The 20-foot ceiling is smooth and lavender but interrupted by jagged flashes of the ceiling’s original plaster. The walls are decorated with square cushions in various earth tones, patterns, and textures and do double-duty by controlling noise and maintaining intimacy. A large, cherry-wood bar divides the bar area from the main dining room — a cozy setting with tables draped in white linen and punctuated by red velvet chairs and booths.

Though we had reservations, our table was not quite ready when we arrived, so we took the opportunity to sit in the bar and enjoy the ambiance. It was a short wait, and soon we were looking over the menu, a thoughtful bow to French cuisine with a Cajun/Southern twist.

For starters, we had the crispy oysters tossed in a flavorful New Orleans barbecue sauce and served over creamy grits. The duck terrine, prepared with shallots and thyme, was served chilled with a dried-cherry compote and whole-grain mustard with cornichons (tart pickles).

The Kentucky Limestone Bibb salad, with extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and shaved Parmesan, was simple and straightforward. The baby spinach salad, by comparison, was a heap of greens tossed in a Maytag-blue-cheese vinaigrette and adorned with delectable morsels of apple-smoked bacon, crispy red onions, spiced pecans, and homemade cheese straws. Next, the crab salad — chunks of sweet white crabmeat mixed in Creole mustard sandwiched between two crispy and tart fried green tomatoes, which were topped with mixed greens and Creole mustard vinaigrette.

(The crab salad was such a delight we thought about ordering more, but the decision was made for us due to our missing waiter. This neglect turned out to be an unfortunate theme of the evening, though we appreciated Willett visiting each table.)

For entrées, we had a perfectly prepared filet of salmon served over creamy grits and crowned with freshly steamed asparagus and oven-roasted tomatoes with a light Creole mustard sauce. This dish made one of my dining companions very quiet and very happy. The filet of beef tenderloin was prepared to order and presented with haricot verts, roasted potatoes, apple-smoked bacon, and red-wine-braised shallots and finished with a dollop of Maytag-blue-cheese butter. A knockout.

The succulent herb-crusted Colorado rack of lamb, drizzled with a Dijon mustard reduction, was so tender no knife was needed. A buttery French gratin of potatoes layered with goat cheese finished the entrée superbly. The final selection of the evening was the roasted halibut with a sauté of wild mushrooms, fresh asparagus, and Mediterranean fava beans with Louisiana crawfish tails served over a parsnip purée with a lemon butter sauce. (Whew!) This dish demonstrated Chef Willett’s creativity and her loyalty to Cajun and other regional influences. The beautiful red crawfish, the earthy textures and flavors of the mushrooms, the white of the fish, and the aroma and coloring of the lemon-butter made this dish pleasing to all the senses.

For dessert, we ordered the bread pudding. This simple dessert had been enhanced by fresh coconut and white-chocolate sauce. There was a lot of it, and we were glad. The caramel cheesecake topped with warm caramel and pralines was as smooth as butter, rich, and decadent — the perfect match for a strong cup of coffee. And no chocolate lover could resist the warm brownie topped with ice cream.

Felicia Suzanne’s, located at 80 Monroe in Brinkley Plaza (523-0877), is open Tuesday-Thursday 6-10 p.m. and Friday-Saturday 6-10:30 p.m. Reservations are requested, and jackets are preferred for men in the dining room. Appetizers and salads: $6-$10; entrées: $22-$30. A full bar is available.

It was a leisurely Saturday afternoon, a day so perfect that grilling

was mandatory. But fresh out of charcoal, we trucked on out to

Bartlett to the Side Porch Steak House, a small family-owned restaurant open for

26 years. If you haven’t been there before, you’ll probably drive right past it. But

if you do, make sure to turn around.

As you approach the restaurant you notice

the simplicity of the little white building with

blue-and-white-checkered curtains and an announcement of a

family member’s wedding taped to the front door. There is an ease to the place, which

reminds guests that this is a family

establishment. The dining rooms are casually

decorated. Wood cupboards with arts and crafts

line the walls, plants are scattered about, and the tables are draped with plastic

tablecloths and finished with fresh flowers.

We were seated quickly, and our waitress promptly brought us our drink order.

Our tea and water came in large mason jars, which fit right with the décor. A basket of

complimentary warm croutons heavily brushed with butter came with the beverages.

For starters, we selected the fried dill pickles. The pickle wedges were

quarters of whole cucumbers cut lengthwise, breaded, lightly fried, and served with

a side of ranch dressing. These were some of the best fried pickles

I’ve had not greasy, not mushy, a little spicy, and

served warm. We were not, however, as impressed with the fried mushrooms. The

mushrooms tasted like they had been frozen and cooked too quickly. Although they

looked wonderful, they squirted very hot residual water that had not cooked out. As for

the lightly seasoned, grilled shrimp, the menu claimed the appetizer was spicy, but it

didn’t have the kick I expected.

All entrées included a simple but

fresh dinner salad and a basket of dinner rolls to go with the menu’s usual steak choices

filet mignon, New York strip, rib-eye, T-bone plus fish, pork, and seafood

dishes. Choices with entrées included a

baked Idaho potato with all the condiments, a baked sweet potato served with

cinnamon sugar, or french fries.

For our main course, we started with a generous serving of grilled

tilapia bathed in butter. (Tilapia is a popular freshwater fish found in Asian

cuisine. The muddy taste once associated with this fish is no

longer present in the farm-raised variety.) This entrée melted in

the mouth. Not to be outdone were the pork chops two

half-inch, center-cut, grilled-to-perfection chops that were juicy and

packed with flavor. Pork can easily be overcooked,

but these were succulent and coupled with a baked potato with the trimmings.

The 14-ounce rib-eye steak served as medium-well was a grave

disappointment to my dining companion. Typically,

the biggest concern with this most prized cut of meat is how it’s cooked. The steak

we were served at Side Porch was charred on the outside, while portions of the

inside remained slightly too rare for my friend’s taste. Moreover, this steak consisted

of more fat than beef. (I would encourage the chef to be

more cautious of the steaks served at the high end of their price

range.) Not to be discouraged, my companion happily finished my order of surf and

turf. The half-inch filet cut from the small end of the tenderloin was extremely tender

and the perfect match for my grilled shrimp, which were brushed with a mixture of

butter, lemon, and parsley.

The menu instructed us to inquire about the desserts, but we got the

check before we had a chance. We piped up anyway, and it turned out to be my favorite

part of the meal. The pecan pie came warm and served with vanilla ice cream. The warm

corn syrup, sugar, vanilla, butter, and pecans

mixed with the ice cream was delicious. But the French silk pie wasn’t the chocolate

creamy decadence my mother makes. I’m not saying it wasn’t tasty, but if you ever tried my

mother’s pie, you’d see why I am so spoiled.

The Side Porch Steak House is located at 5689 Stage Rd. (757-2484).

Hours: Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5

to 10 p.m.; closed Monday. Appetizers range from $3.95 to $5.95, salads $2.95

to $8.95, and entrées $9.95-$17.95. No reservations required.

If you are looking for that perfect place for a late-night cup of coffee and dessert or a little wine, a casual supper, and sultry, live jazz, then Zanzibar in the South Main Arts District fits the bill.

Zanzibar’s atmosphere is electric with its multicolored walls, funky painted bar, and art gallery. The restaurant seats about 50 comfortably. Street parking is ample, and the trolley stops right in front.

The dinner menu is sorted into three categories: “one” for appetizers, “two” for salads and soups, and “three” for entrées. And there is always a daily special.

In category “one,” we sampled all the appetizers offered. The salsa Diablo was a dark, pebbly mashed avocado blended with garlic and chopped tomato and served with crisp corn tortilla chips. The nutty Hass avocados ensure a coarse, thick texture that clings to the chips and a flavor that will leave you wanting more. The Pacific prawn ceviche, served with avocados and capers, includes prawns cooked by the acidity of lime juice. Our favorite “one,” without a doubt, was the glazed beef, chicken, and pork skewers covered in a sweet chile/garlic glaze. Vinegared cucumbers sweetened with a little sugar made for the perfect complement. (Just a note: The menu stated that the skewers would be served with rice noodles, but the sticky rice worked just as well and the noodles were not missed.)

Of category “two” we sampled the romaine and radicchio with baby greens, which came dressed with Maytag blue cheese, thinly sliced Granny Smith apples, and white balsamic vinegar. The Zanzibar Caesar was basically a simple half-head of romaine lettuce with Zanzibar’s own thick, garlicky Caesar dressing and large shrimp. Very satisfying. But the Caesar paled in comparison to the peanut soup. Served in a brightly colored coffee mug, the thick, amber soup had chunks of potato, chicken, carrot, red pepper, and Northern beans floating in a rich, aromatic peanutty chowder. It smelled wonderful, it tasted better, and the flavor seemed to get richer as I got closer to the bottom of the cup.

Category “three” was where the choices became tough. Zanzibar offers a tempting variety of entrees, from roast Peking duck to vegetarian Red Rose potato and tofu curry. We chose the grilled chicken fettuccini. The chunks of grilled chicken atop traditional noodles, prepared al dente and tossed in a creamy rich white (you can opt for red) sauce with the perfect hint of garlic, were worthy of a fine Italian restaurant. The New Zealand rack of lamb was prepared in a “French” manner, meaning the meat had been cut away from the end of the rib so that part of the bone was exposed. The pieces of tender lamb had been delicately bathed in a honey, rosemary, and balsamic-vinegar glaze and carefully placed over delectable mashed potatoes mixed with garlic and basil. The herbs, vinegar, and honey demonstrated the kitchen’s knowledge of the importance of blending flavors.

The roasted-pork empanadas, unfortunately, were not empanadas at all. I expected a traditional Spanish treat of pastry crust filled with savory meat. Zanzibar’s version of an empanada is more closely related to a tostada, a crisp tortilla with shredded pork and served with refried pinto beans garnished with guacamole, salsa, and Mexican cabbage slaw. And by the time they were served, the empanadas had gotten cold and were bland and chewy.

Our favorite selection, however, was the Jamaican rib-eye strips — extremely tender strips of seasoned steak grilled to perfection with caramelized red onions, accompanied by garlic/basil mashed potatoes, and finished with freshly prepared asparagus, zucchini, and squash.

And so it went: “One.” “Two.” “Three.” I had had it. Then I spotted “Four” — Zanzibar’s glass cabinet filled with every cheesecake one could think of and a few other sweets too powerful to pass up. My favorite was the caramel praline cheesecake, a decadent, creamy, rich cheesecake drizzled with caramel and sprinkled with candied pecans. Oh, the calories! One of my companions ordered the key lime cheesecake. Unfortunately, it had a gummy consistency and lacked a tastable luster. The caramel turtle cheesecake was a success. The creamy vanilla cheesecake layered with caramel, chocolate, and pecans was a party for the palate.

Zanzibar is located at 412 South Main Street, 543-9646. Hours: Tuesday-Wednesday 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., Thursday-Friday 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday brunch 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Live jazz Thursday-Friday. Appetizers and salads range from $5.95 to $8.95, entrées $6 to $22. Zanzibar offers an extensive coffee selection and dessert menu. Wine and beer are also available.

At Christopher’s, located on Brookhaven Circle in East Memphis, two cement lions guard the entrance. A small host area leads to two dining rooms and a small bar area, which, combined, seat about 100 comfortably. I had called early on a Saturday to make reservations, but the dining rooms were already booked. A little surprised but with my interest piqued, I agreed to dine in the bar.

When we arrived, we were warmly greeted and immediately guided to our table. The hardwood floors, the hardwood bar, the fireplace, and the candles created a warm and glowing atmosphere. Unfortunately, we were seated at an awkward table too close to the end of the bar. Perhaps fewer or smaller tables would be more practical for such a cozy space.

To start, my companions and I selected the sea scallops in Rockefeller sauce — three large scallops and a slice of grilled herb polenta topped with fresh spinach leaves. The creamy sauce was infused with the flavors of butter and Pernod. Delicious. Not to be outdone was the savory, dried-tomato cheesecake. I have made a sun-dried-tomato cheesecake or two in my day, but I have never thought to oven-dry or purée my tomatoes prior to mixing with the cream cheese. The puréed tomatoes made the cheesecake reddish pink and absolutely lovely in contrast with the white serving plate. The pepper-seared tuna carpaccio, with pickled-ginger slaw and a drizzle of wasabi, was packed with flavor.

For the salad course, I had my heart set on the Bibb lettuce salad with chilled Maine lobster. Unfortunately, they were out of lobster and the substituted shrimp did not tempt me. So we went for the mixed green salad with crumbled feta and diced tomatoes, olives, and cucumber pico tossed in a traditional herb vinaigrette. The spinach and arugula salad with port-poached apples, roasted walnuts, and Roquefort dressing was tasty but seemed to be missing the arugula.

Christopher’s specialty soup that evening was lamb and Black Angus steak stew — a hearty broth that also contained carrots, potatoes, and a bit of cayenne. This slightly spicy soup matched the roaring fire and reminded me of my days living in the Northeast. Enough reminiscing: If they offer the soup when you’re here, get it.

The entrée selection had hints of Caribbean, Southern, and Asian influences. I chose the Chateaubriand of veal with wild mushrooms and Cognac cream. I rarely prepare veal and rarely resist ordering it. Christopher’s Chateaubriand featured medallions of velvety veal thinly sliced and slightly grilled with a melt-in-your-mouth sauce (a reduction of white wine, shallots, herbs, mushrooms, and butter). The veal was complemented with garlic mashed potatoes and steamed asparagus.

The chef’s featured entrée was trout. The large serving of fish covered the plate, was perfectly prepared, and was almost too beautiful to destroy: The succulent trout was placed on a mound of yellow couscous and crowned with a relish of orange cantaloupe, cucumber, and honeydew melon. The subtlety of the fish with the fruit danced on the taste buds. And while my companion claimed he was full after his stew and appetizers, he almost finished this large portion.

(At this point I would like to thank the wait staff at Christopher’s. They were very attentive without being obtrusive. They made our experience delightful.)

For dessert, we tried the Grand Marnier-scented crème brûlée, which came in a small teacup and made the perfect mate for coffee — not too much but a smooth and creamy treat with a caramelized crust. The “Chocolate Decadence,” a flourless chocolate cake, was very rich and very fudgey and absolutely delicious.

I was just thinking about how good our meal had been when our waitress appeared with the walnut French toast. The richness of the bread with chunks of walnut prepared as French toast and smothered with caramelized bananas and ginger ice cream made this grateful diner realize she needed nothing more to make an evening perfect.

Christopher’s is located at 712 West Brookhaven Circle, 682-5202. Appetizers range from $9 to $10, soups and salads $6 to $12, entrées $20 to $28, and desserts $5 to $8. Full bar and wine list are available.

For real estate agents, it’s location. For me, a dining critic, it’s all about timing from the wait to be seated to the lapse between ordering and eating to the countdown for the check. Recently, my companions and I went to Puccini and Pasta, Peabody Place’s newest restaurant, a stylish establishment with a sleek interior, great music, and tasty cuisine with one drawback faulty timing.

Puccini and Pasta seats 240 patrons comfortably, which, on the night we dined there, included several members of the U of M Tigers basketball team. The modern interior with its subtle lighting, wine rack, high-back booths, and cozy tables radiates style and romance. A scurrying wait staff decked out in black and white outfits added a touch of class, and sultry jazz music played faintly in the background.

For starters, we tried the carpaccio, a thinly sliced, cured beef filet served with a mixture of mustard sauce, olive oil, and lemon juice in a bed of baby greens, sliced Parmesan cheese, and tomato. The cozze mare were tender, sweet, fresh mussels steamed in white wine, Pernod (anise-flavored liqueur), olive oil, lemon, basil, and a hint of garlic. The menu warned that the dish might be served with tomato sauce instead of basil, and I was thrilled that it was not. The only unappetizing thing about our appetizers: They arrived before our beverages, and we had to request our drinks a second time after waiting about 20 minutes.

Soup and salad selections are limited. We ordered the minestrone and the pasta fagioli. Both soups had a hearty stock as their base. The minestrone combined chickpeas, Parmesan, spinach, kidney beans, sausage, vegetables, and noodles, while the pasta fagioli married great Northern beans, tomatoes, spinach, pasta, and celery. I was surprised by the minestrone its broth and vegetables could have made a meal alone.

After a lengthy wait, and while our server was apologizing for the delay in our salads, our entrées arrived. The entrées were then taken back to the kitchen, and, with visions of our dishes sitting under a warming lamp, we rushed through our salads. Again, it’s all about timing.

As for those salads, the mixed greens included radicchio and baby greens topped with mushrooms, red onions, roasted and peeled peppers, and feta cheese drizzled with a vinaigrette and surrounded by tender, peppery endive leaves. The Caesar salad’s romaine lettuce, croutons, and Parmesan mixture wilted in a bath of dressing made from eggs, olive oil, garlic, and anchovies.

Among our entrées, we tried the sirloin steak, an ample New York strip grilled to perfection and served with diced tomatoes in an extra-virgin olive oil, lemon juice, and balsamic vinegar. The side portion of ziti in a marinara sauce complemented the heartiness of the steak. The veal Milanese proved to be nothing more than a salad atop a piece of veal that had been flattened, breaded, pan-fried, and buried under mixed baby greens, radicchio, fresh tomatoes, and an olive oil-based vinaigrette. The menu indicated that the veal came with the pasta of the day, but it never arrived. We asked our waiter about the pasta and he said the menu was incorrect.

The “Spiedino,” definitely my favorite selection of the evening, consisted of large shrimp and sea scallops rolled in Italian bread crumbs, skewered, grilled, and placed on a mound of creamy fettuccini Alfredo and finished with a lemon butter sauce and fresh parsley. Bravo! The Chicken Marsala a flattened chicken breast sautéed with mushrooms, topped with Marsala wine sauce, and coupled with Puccini’s house pasta for the evening was not as successful. The ziti with a tomato-based sauce did not complement the Marsala wine, and the chicken seemed meant for something not quite as heavy, perhaps an angel hair pasta in a light olive oil.

For dessert, we had the cream puffs, three éclair-like puffs filled with a vanilla cream and smothered in chocolate mousse and whipping cream then finished with fresh strawberries. The cream puffs, although tasty, didn’t spark the usual chocolate nerve in me. The lemon chess pie, served in a flaky crust, was not too sweet or too tart and came with with just the right-sized dollop of fresh whipped cream. The tiramisu was a happy union of sponge cakes soaked in liqueur, custard cream, and a healthy dusting of chocolate atop drizzled chocolate.

Reservations are not required at Puccini and Pasta, but I would suggest them, especially on the weekends. Call 528-9555. Hours are 11 a.m. until 11 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. until midnight Friday and Saturday, and 11 a.m. until 10 p.m. Sunday. Lunch ranges from $6.95 to about $10. Appetizers, soups, and salads range from $4.50 to $8.95, entrées $8.95 to $18.95.

If you’re the sensitive type, beware the dancing man. And if you see two dancing men on the menu at Sawaddii, things are really going to get hot.

Sawaddii, located in the 100 block of Union Avenue, serves the complex cuisine of Thailand in an eclectic environment. The bar in front sets the stage for a vibrant and deep, terra-cotta-colored dining room. The hardwood tables and fresh flowers give the small room a simple, clean, and warm feeling.

The menu is sorted by appetizers, salads and soups, curries, entrées, noodles and rices, and house specialties. The key in the corner of the menu signifies the heat or spiciness of the dishes. One dancing man means the dish is spicy; two dancing men means that you may be the one dancing after you eat it.

Our group started with the Crab Rangoon, four golden-brown fried wontons stuffed with delicate white crabmeat and accompanied by a tart sweet-and-sour sauce. The spring rolls were stuffed rice paper with fresh vegetables, tofu, and egg and crowned with a tangy honey-mustard sauce. The stuffing gave the rolls substance, and the sauce wasn’t shabby either. My favorite appetizer, though, was the beef satay — skewers of thinly sliced beef marinated in Sawaddii’s signature blend of curry powder, grilled to perfection, and coupled with a peanut sauce so rich it could have put me in a trance.

We then sampled a couple of soups. The vegetable and tofu soup was flavorless, but making up for the disappointment was the Tum Yum — a traditional hot-and-sour soup jazzed up with mushrooms, fresh basil, lemon grass, tomato wedges, medium-size shrimp, and baby scallops.

Our first entrée was the sweet-and-sour vegetables, a mixture of zucchini, celery, cabbage, tomatoes, onions, bell peppers, and pineapple chunks in a sweet-and-sour sauce. It was the perfect selection for the vegetarian at our table. The sauce enhanced the vegetables rather than overwhelming them, a common drawback to sweet-and-sour dishes. The Nam Tok Beef was spicy and tasty — tender filets of beef flavored with lime, red chilis, peppers, red onions, scallions, and crushed roasted rice — though it may have too much citrus for some palates.

What can I say about the Sam Rod? What a masterpiece! One half of a crispy, fried boneless duck topped with the most succulent sweet-and-sour sauce and displayed with basil rice. A visually tempting and mouth-watering dish. Rounding out our entrées was the chef’s specialty of the evening, the Sawaddii Seafood — a firm yet not overly done combination of mussels, oysters, shrimp, salmon, and scallops blended with scallions and garlic on a bed of cabbage, which demonstrated the creativity and pure decadence of the chef. I like that in a chef. Bravo!

For a sweet ending to our evening, we could not resist the custard with sticky rice, a substantial dessert. Not to be outdone, the fried vanilla ice cream with a hint of cinnamon was wonderful, and the fried bananas were enthusiastically shared at our table.

Open for lunch Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner Mon.-Thurs. 5-9:30 p.m.; Fri. & Sat. 5-10:30 p.m.

Harry’s New Detour; a super Super Bowl

Patrons of Harry’s Detour on Cooper will soon have the option of dining at their favorite restaurant at another location. Harry Nicholas’ new restaurant, Harry’s Detour South Main, will open its doors on April 1st. The new Detour at 106 East G.E. Patterson is tucked in just behind Carnevale on South Main. The new location will also feature a courtyard for al fresco dining. Both locations will have the same dinner menu, but emphasis will be placed on the lunch menu at the new Detour because of expected heavier lunch traffic.

Super Bowl Sunday would have been a good time to be in Bubba’s Ale House and Grille on Highway 64. During the game Budweiser selected Bubba’s as one of 35 bars across the country to receive $15,000 to divide among their customers watching the game. The payout? A cool $390 per patron. That’ll cover a lot of bad bets.