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Food & Wine Food & Drink

No Horsing Around

A meal at Equestria Restaurant and Lounge is a Triple Crown
experience, though one that comes with a Triple Crown tab. So is it worth it?
Let’s just say the fare wins over the fee by a nose.

But enough with the puns and on with the review

Equestria is located at 3165 Forest Hill-Irene in Germantown and
has less a decor than it does a setting — that of elegantly rustic stables.
When we arrived, we were greeted and seated promptly. We had several questions
about the menu that our waiter could not answer, and to his credit, he
requested assistance from a more experienced waiter, and the chef graciously
left her kitchen to explain several menu selections to us.

To begin, we chose shrimp and crab cakes served with a corn
relish and black bean/serrano pepper (a hot green chile) sauce. The
combination of flavors exploded on the tongue with flares of sweet and sour.
We also tried the jumbo shrimp cocktail, which was served in a large martini
glass, and the Tennessee oysters, which were pecan-crusted, deep-fried, and
doused in a tangy rémoulade sauce. Our party inhaled those.

Salad selections included the Equestria salad — mesclun mixed
greens, Mandarin orange slices, pine nuts, bacon, and a blood-orange
vinaigrette. The vinaigrette was crimson-colored and sweet with a taste of
raspberry. The tomato-mozzarella stack proved that layers of marinated
mozzarella, ripe tomatoes, fresh basil and a light pesto vinaigrette served in
a timely fashion can truly keep their goodness. (It doesn’t hurt that the
herbs are grown in the garden behind the restaurant.) But the smoked-trout
salad was the ultimate mix of greens and treats — Romaine lettuce, greens,
roma tomatoes, Mandarin orange slices, pine nuts, and purple basil topped with
chilled smoked trout. A barely needed sun-dried tomato vinaigrette came on the
side. The succulent pink flesh of the trout had been perfectly smoked.
Extraordinary.

For an entrée, one of our party ordered the linguine
Portofino — tossed linguine, mushrooms, and sautéed shrimp and lobster
in a sherry cream sauce that turned out to be a real lightweight. In direct
contrast, Polynesian halibut — a golden brown, lightly coconut-encrusted
piece of white fish served with a pineapple and red chile salsa and rice. This
dish, with its yellow and reds, was not only attractive, it was delicious with
its melt-in-your-mouth fish, sweet coconut, and tart salsa.

The roasted rack of lamb was encrusted with a white-wine-based
Dijon mustard and herbed breading and finished with a brown mint demi-glace.
The lamb, cut from the rib section into chops, was tender and flavorful, but
the brown demi-glace was heavier and had a stronger mint essence than the menu
described. Another entrée we liked: the 14-ounce rib-eye steak and
broiled lobster tail. The rib-eye was prepared to order, the lobster tail
generous and broiled to perfection. No argument here.

From the dessert menu: The blue-ribbon banana cream pie — rich,
creamy custard with fresh bananas folded in and a touch of ground cinnamon,
all presented in a graham cracker crust — was a true winner. Next up was the
tiramisu, described as an Italian cheesecake, with ladyfingers soaked in
coffee and Marsala, layered with mascarpone cheese and chocolate, and topped
with cocoa powder. Tiramisu is a particular weakness of mine though this
version was too soggy and not the rich dessert I’m used to.

Appetizers and salads at Equestria range from $8 to $16,
entrées from $18 to $40. Equestria is open for dinner Monday through
Saturday, 5-10 p.m. Reservations, though not required, are suggested. 869-
2663. n

food notes

by Hannah Walton

Hattley’s Homemade

“Everyone loves ice cream, and I figure there are not that
many other local places selling it,” says Hattley’s Garage co-owner Carol
Osborne.

At least not like this. For the last two weeks, Hattley’s has
been serving up tea- and coffee-flavored homemade ice cream. There’s Mean
Mocha, Chocolate Moroccan Mint, Camomile Lemon, Orange Chai, and Ginger
Peach.

This cool line is courtesy of Osborne’s partner, Michele Warren,
a regular culinary busy-body. From the sandwiches to the beverages, Warren is
forever combining flavors and experimenting.

Warren is now working on an Earl Grey flavor, as well as ice-
cream sandwiches.

Hattley’s Garage at 1761 Madison is open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Tuesday-Saturday.

Grisanti On Wheels

With something like 1,000 family-based restaurants in town,
what’s left for a Grisanti to do?

Take it on the road, of course.

Alex and Judd Grisanti have left Ronnie Grisanti & Sons
Restaurant to run the recently opened Grisanti’s Catering Company.

“We do it all,” says Judd Grisanti. “We’re
different from other catering companies because we come to you.”

Executive chef David Cleveland, along with Alex and Judd, design
the menu to fit each client’s needs. The team of chefs work in the kitchen of
Ronnie Grisanti & Sons during the day to prepare the food for the
events.

Grisanti’s Catering Company works luncheons, parties, weddings,
etc., starting with hors d’oeuvres and ending with dessert. When catering at a
client’s home, the chef comes with his own pots and pans and an adequate
staff, all of whom are professional chefs.

“We bring needed staff from the bartenders to the
dishwashers,” Judd says. “We like to leave the kitchen just like we
found it.”

The Grisantis started off doing events with only a day’s notice,
but now they’ve half of December already booked.

“This has been incredibly overwhelming and exciting all at
the same time,” says Judd.

For more information, call 323-8000.

Witty Work

Mother of Mother Witt, deejay of WRBO-FM 103.5, said to father of
Mother Witt: “Is that a possum?” Father said, “Possibly” –
– hence the dish, “Possibly Possum.”

“Possibly Possum” is no ordinary recipe. None of the
recipes Mother Witt broadcasts twice daily, at 6:35 a.m. and 8:10 p.m., on the
station is. The only requirement is that the recipes are easy to follow and
have few ingredients.

Witt, who says she rarely cooks these days, learned from her
mother and grandmother, who were in the catering business.

“My mother and grandmother were fine cooks,” Witt says.
“My grandmother was known for her wedding cakes.”

For her broadcasts, Witt uses recipes from her listeners, old
cookbooks, her family, and, of course, her own collection. Some of the
recipes, she says, are just from the simple days when she was a kid. One
example is the homemade Popsicle: pour Kool-Aid in an ice-cube tray, insert
Popsicle sticks, and freeze.

“The recipes get crazier,” Witt says. “Such as
today’s ‘Atomic Kool-Aid’ recipe where you mix Kool-Aid with orange juice and
Kahlua.”

“It’s so fun, and the feedback I get is so positive,”
says Witt.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Eureka!

In the four years that I’ve lived in Memphis, I’ve tried to figure out this “Memphis feeling” everyone talks about. I joined a church, went to Graceland (numerous times), and attended Memphis in May events. I’ve eaten more barbecue than a person should. But I still didn’t get it. I thought, What have I been missing? Then came an invitation from a friend to try the soul food at Alcenia’s Desserts and Preserves Shop on North Main.

We arrived on a glorious Saturday morning. Alcenia’s is usually not open on Saturdays, but on this day owner B.J. Chester-Tamayo was holding an art opening and brunch for local artist Larry Walker. As we entered the small restaurant, the first thing I noticed was the intimacy of the dining rooms — two rooms that seat a total of about 45 people. Then I noticed the colors — neon purples, fuscia, green, and gold — and the funky touches, such as animal-print lamps, silk flowers, and brightly painted cane chairs.

B.J. greeted us, as she does all her customers, with a hug and a kiss for each. Her restaurant, named for the owner’s mother and granddaughter, was hopping, and people were standing everywhere waiting for tables. B.J. warned us that due to the private party for Walker there would be a wait and asked us to be patient. We agreed to: With an atmosphere as electric and fun as this one, we were not going anywhere. Our conversations with other patrons and the staff truly projected the essence of community, family, and friendship.

Our waitress, Sherry, had also come in for breakfast, but when she saw that Alcenia’s was swamped she grabbed an apron and pen and went to work. Everyone waiting tables, cooking, tending the register, and bussing were friends of B.J., all volunteers helping with the brunch.

The menu featured salmon croquettes, fried green tomatoes, rice, grits, omelets, sausage, bacon, pancakes, and biscuits. Desserts included peach cobbler, egg custard pie, and bread pudding. For $6.99 a patron could order one main dish and three sides. Desserts ranged from $2.65 to $3.45.

The salmon croquette, a blend of pink salmon, cracker crumbs, egg, parsley, and salt and pepper, had been fried to a golden, crispy consistency. Three thinly sliced, flour-dredged fried green tomatoes accompanied the salmon. The tanginess of the green tomato enhanced the fish. Perfectly cooked grits and a large, golden-brown biscuit completed this hearty meal. My companion ordered the pancakes, which were the fluffiest I have ever seen. With his pancakes came sausage, grits, and an omelet stuffed with cheddar cheese and sausage. The omelet could have been a meal itself.

Alcenia’s weekly lunch and dinner menu consists of one meat, two sides, and cornbread or rolls, with each day featuring different meats and vegetables. Among the meat selections: pork chops, fried catfish, fried chicken, meatloaf, chicken and dressing, and barbecue chicken. The vegetables offered: cabbage, green beans, rice, corn on the cob, slaw, lima beans, pinto beans, black-eyed peas, meatless spaghetti, and macaroni and cheese. You can also order sandwiches and assorted munchies, such as fried cucumbers, hot wings, french fries, and onion rings.

Alcenia’s is best known for its cha cha (a pickled mixture of cabbage, green tomatoes, and spices), preserves (peach, apricot, pear, and fig), and desserts (pecan pie, sweet potato pie, bread pudding, and a featured fruit cobbler).

At Alcenia’s I felt like I finally got the education on Memphis I was looking for. And another thing I learned — if you plan on going, call ahead and let them know what time you’re coming and what you would like to eat. Alcenia’s prides itself on serving fresh food, so they’ll have your meal ready when you get there. n

Alcenia’s Desserts and Preserves Shop is located in the Pinch District at 317 North Main Street. Entrées range in price from $6 to $8.35; sandwiches and munchies, $1.50 to $5.35; desserts and preserves, $2.75 to $10. Hours: Tuesday through Friday 11 a.m.-5 p.m. and Sunday 1-5 p.m. Open Saturday for special events. Closed on Monday. Dine in or carry-out, 523-0200.

food notes

Elvis Eats

“We encourage any Elvis fans who enjoy cooking to join us for the evening,” says Elizabeth Boyd of the Viking Culinary Arts Center. That’s because on Friday, August 17th (the day after the 24th anniversary of Presley’s death), Boyd will honor the King by teaching fans how to make a Creole dinner, including stuffed artichokes, shrimp Creole, French bread, and bread pudding. And participants can watch one of Elvis’ legendary movies, King Creole, while they stir and stuff. Everyone is encouraged to dress in Elvis garb to really get in the spirit.

The class is open to anyone 18 or over, and is limited to 35 spots, 20 of which are already taken. The evening begins at 6:30 p.m. at the Viking Culinary Arts Center, 119 S. Main, Suite 600. To register or for more information, call 578-5822. The cost is $35. — Hannah Walton

Harry’s Back

For Harry Nicholas, the detour to Harry’s Detour was long. “I got in trouble five years ago,” Nicholas says. That trouble included a drinking problem, a brush with the law, and the selling of Harry’s On Teur (now On Teur). But now Harry’s back and he’s starting a new restaurant located at 532 South Cooper. Along for the ride is Betsy Gross, who is a veteran of Chez Philippe. “I’m probably the most grateful person on the planet,” Nicholas says. He says he’s been sober for five years and that he and Gross named the restaurant’s parent company Lazarus for obvious reasons. “I’m really lucky to be alive,” Nicholas says, laughing.

Harry’s Detour will open in “two or three weeks.” Putting the final touches on the restaurant, Nicholas predicts an American eclectic cuisine with all dishes made to order and a menu that changes daily.

“Basically it’s my interpretation of the dishes people eat,” Nicholas says. The menu will include Thai, Greek, and Hunan selections, among others. Nicholas will pick fresh seafood daily and grill meats over specially ordered pecan wood. “Real food is what I call it,” Nicholas says.

Nicholas describes one as yet unnamed dish of beef tenderloins cut down the middle, stuffed with tasso meat, oysters, spinach, and bread crumbs, then charbroiled to order and placed over wild mushrooms and red wine. Another (also unnamed) dish will include monkfish medallions wrapped with bacon, baked in a confectionery oven, and then placed on a mound of strong greens and drizzled with a pear or peach sauce.

Nicholas says, “I can’t wait to get this stuff out of my head and on the plate.” Call 276-7623 for updates on the exact opening date.

Chris Przybyszewski

Grace’s Goods

When you hear the name Dinstuhl’s, you think of candy. Now, think again.

Years ago, Grace Dinstuhl typed out her own recipes and had them bound for her only child, Gary. When Gary showed it to his friends, they requested their own copy. On August 11th, Dinstuhl will be signing that, her first book, Grace’s Kitchen, at Davis-Kidd Booksellers from noon to 2 p.m.

The recipes vary from a family favorite, “Country Captain Chicken,” to macaroni and cheese.

“I thought everyone knew how to make macaroni and cheese, but I have gotten so many compliments on this particular recipe,” Dinstuhl says.

Dinstuhl’s father-in-law opened the first Dinstuhl’s Candies store and passed the business on to her and her husband, Gene, and they have since passed it on to Gary.

Grace’s Kitchen is available at Davis-Kidd Booksellers and all Dinstuhl’s Candies locations. — HW

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Filling Station

Sabor translates as “flavor,” and at Sabor Tropical, on Lamar Avenue, there are plenty of flavors to sample. The menu offers 30 entrées, including pork, chicken, beef, and seafood dishes. While there’s not an appetizer section on the menu, we chose a grilled sandwich roll stuffed with layers of pork, ham, dill pickle chips, melted Swiss cheese, and Dijon mustard to munch on while we attempted to narrow our entrée choices.

For the record, Cuban cuisine is amazing for the variety of dishes, the quantities served, and the ethnic mix of Russian, Chinese, and European influences, with a particular emphasis on Spanish and African cultures. Dishes are typically served with black beans mixed with white rice, yellow rice, or white rice and fried plantains. Plantains are closely related to the banana but have a higher starch and lower sugar content. They require a longer cooking time for savory and sweet dishes and are a staple in Latin America. (If you are buying plantains in a local grocery, be aware that if the skin is green, the fruit is not fully ripened. The skin should turn yellow and then black to ensure peak ripeness.)

The Bistec delmonico, arroz blanco, negros y maduros proved to be a steak smothered in sautéed onions drizzled with fresh lime juice and accompanied by a rice and black bean mixture circled by fried plantains. The cut of beef was a little fatty and we were not asked our preference for cooking the meat. Unfortunately, the beef was overcooked and a little tough. The Cerdo a la juliana, moros y yuca was better: succulent strips of pork mingled with red and green peppers sautéed with julienned strips of onion. The pork had been marinated in garlic and olive oil, roasted, and then served with a mix of rice and fried plantains. The pork and plantains sent my tastebuds into overload.

The Zarzuela de mariscos, arroz blanco y maduros arrived at our table in a large metal pot containing a blend of shrimp, black mussels, squid, white fish, and baby scallops swimming in a Creole sauce of butter, garlic, paprika, and a hint of red pepper. The aroma of this seafood stew gave me goose bumps, and we could not wait to dive for treasures in this dish. The seafood was fresh and perfectly tender and had absorbed the flavors from the liquid. This is a must-try for anyone who enjoys seafood. Yellow rice and plantains were served separately and offered a visual complement to the stew.

To be adventurous we selected an evening special for our final entrée. The Medallones de pargo, a red snapper fillet bathed in butter, fresh lime juice, a hint of garlic, paprika, and fresh cilantro, literally melted in our mouths. This fish was full of flavor, and to my amazement the lime juice and paprika did not overpower it. A side order of yellow rice and fried plantains again accompanied the entrée.

Sabor Tropical offers a limited dessert and coffee menu. The casco de guayaba con queso crema proved to be a guava fruit, seeded, peeled, and smothered in light corn syrup and served with a strip of cream cheese. (Guava is an inadequately appreciated, sweet, pink, hearty, and juicy fruit. So try it.) Flan, the very popular open tart, filled with caramel and cream custard, is rich, and Sabor Tropical’s version is very rich and the perfect match for a strong cup of coffee. The Cuban coffee (espresso) and the Cortadito (café au lait) appeared in small, bright yellow- and blue-ceramic cups and saucers. The perfect ending to an authentic Cuban dining experience.

Sabor Tropical is at 3999 Lamar Avenue. Hours: Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 1 to 7 p.m. For carry-out, call 566-0960.

food notes

by Hannah Walton

What a Dip

The Melting Pot recently opened its second restaurant in Memphis at 126-128 Monroe Avenue. The first, near the Wolfchase Galleria, is regularly packed with people who want their fondue.

Explains general manager Scott Thiele, “It’s not just the normal out-to-eat routine, but a totally new experience.”

Of course, Thiele is not altogether right. Fondue has recently returned in popularity after the intial craze faded out about the same time as disco. At the Melting Pot, customers can choose cheese fondues for appetizers, flavored fondues for meat and vegetable entrées, and chocolate fondues for dessert. Dippees include strawberries and lobster and bread. Dips: bouillon; Swiss and cheddar cheeses; dark, milk, and white chocolates.

Entrées range in price from $12.95 to $24.95 and include salad and vegetables. The Melting Pot is open 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 4 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday.

Out Of Town

Talk about a fish tale. They’ll be in and out of the water in Chattanooga this summer when local restaurateur Jimmy Ishii opens a Sekisui across from the Tennessee Aquarium — the world’s largest freshwater aquarium.

The 4,600-square-foot Sekisui Chattanooga will seat more than 100 people. In the front of the restaurant, a sushi bar will serve traditional Japanese cuisine; the back will have a hibachi table with additional grilled Japanese specials. Blue neon waves will be incorporated into the restaurant’s design to carry out the aquatic theme.

Chef Kazumichi Sempuku is one of six chefs who will be creating new specials daily. Sempuku has worked in Honolulu and St. Louis.

“He is a long-time friend of mine and a very, very good chef,” Ishii says.

Ishii says downtown Chattanooga is an ideal location because of the lack of Japanese cuisine there. He says the aquarium across the street adds a nice touch.

Since Ishii seems to own nearly every restaurant in Memphis, it’s natural that he look beyond the city limits. As Ishii says, “When people become addicted to sushi I will be a happy man.”

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Details, Details

Waiting to exhale? EJ’s Brasserie, on Germantown Parkway, is a setting just made for shedding the day. EJ’s interior is small, casual, and festive. The wood is teak, the colors are blue and gold, and the walls are dotted with lively paintings of harbors.

We began our meal with what the menu calls “beginnings.” First up, crab cakes — lumps of crabmeat delicately mixed with bread crumbs, spiced with red pepper, and cradled by curry oil, cranberry ketchup, and papaya chutney. Next were the spring rolls, a mixture of Chinese vegetables wrapped and deep-fried, served sliced atop an orange pico glaze. A mound of steaming black mussels then appeared, though the aroma of curry, saffron, and fennel arrived at the table first. This flavorful cream sauce was a divine accompaniment to the mussels.

Finally, the featured beginning, known as the “smørrebrøds platte.” Smørrebrød, literally buttered bread in Danish, is an open-faced, artfully presented sandwich made with all kinds of fish, meat, and vegetable fillings. This night’s platter — it changes frequently at EJ’s — featured a smoked salmon roll stuffed with cream cheese, beef tips, mushrooms, and havarti cheese, all on a party-size pumpernickel bread.

Salads are not included with the entrées, but do not pass on these greens. EJ’s simple salad is merely mixed baby greens, cucumbers, and tomatoes drizzled with a champagne vinaigrette. The warm goat cheese salad features a ball of pecan-crusted goat cheese on a palette of baby greens with a balsamic vinaigrette. On this night, the cheese was too warm and had begun to melt by the time the salad was served. The flavors mingled well, but the timing was a little off.

The Caesar salad, though, was definitely a hit — chopped romaine lettuce tossed in a mixture of coddled eggs and grated Parmesan cheese in an olive oil vinaigrette flavored with garlic, Worcestershire sauce, and anchovies, then finished by a garlic crisp.

The baby spinach salad had a Danish twist. Baby spinach and pickled beets tossed in a walnut vinaigrette were piled high on a plate surrounded by chunks of Roquefort cheese — a nod to the importance of color and texture in presentation. It’s difficult to find the true Danish blue cheese, Danablu. I commend EJ’s for substituting Roquefort since it’s as close to Danablu as locals typically find. But in Denmark, Danablu is a well-known cheese based on the French blues. Details, details, details. Very good.

The choice in entrées made selection difficult — salmon, halibut, tilapia, calf’s liver, pork tenderloin, duck breast, and chicken risotto. The variety was almost overwhelming, so we sought the advice of our waitress, who highlighted ingredients and flavors. Again, details. It is critical that the wait staff be knowledgeable of the fare they are serving.

After much deliberation we settled on four entrées; the pompano, the veal scaloppini, the filet of beef, and the mahi mahi. Pompano is found off the southeastern U.S. coastline, and it is a beautiful white-meat fish. EJ’s pompano came wrapped in phyllo dough with a mango salsa and orange fennel sauce. The golden richness of the phyllo dough and the texture of the fish melted in our mouths. The mango and orange gave the fish a Caribbean punch.

The thinly sliced cutlets in the veal scaloppini were placed atop a mound of creamy, garlic whipped potatoes. A deep-amber Marsala (Italian fortified dessert wine) reduction intensified the delicate flavor of the veal and potatoes. Not to be outdone, however, was the mahi mahi, cut into fillets and packed with a variety of herbs. The result: a rich, moist, firm, and sweet fillet towering over a tumulus of butternut squash purée, melting leeks, and basil vinaigrette.

Last but not least, the black-pepper-seared filet of beef. My dining companion ordered it medium-well; however, the filet appeared extremely well done. To add to our disappointment, the shoestring of potato tossed in white truffle oils and a grain-mustard demiglace was also overcooked. Don’t rule this dish out, though. It has an interesting mix of flavors, and everybody has an off-night once in a while. Even so, all of our entrées were well thought-out. Balance, color, textures — at EJ’s it’s artwork.

Homestyle desserts with a Danish flair are prepared in-house at EJ’s. The white and dark chocolate mousse was served in a puff pastry. My dining companion was entranced by this dessert, and for a moment the rest of the table wasn’t sure if she was going to let us try the mousse or keep it all to herself.

I couldn’t determine if EJ’s raspberry sorbet included a beaten egg white or milk, which some chefs add to keep crystals from forming during freezing. Unfortunately, the sorbet was swimming in an overpowering and pungent raspberry purée. A third dessert, the lemon tartlet, was tangy, sweet, and savory and had no top crust.

I applaud the owners, the chefs, and wait staff at EJ’s Brasserie for their dedication and attention to detail. It is so refreshing to visit a restaurant that truly embraces its clientele, makes every effort to impress, and keeps diners wanting to come back for more. n

EJ’s Brasserie is located at 1884 N. Germantown Road. Lunch: $5 to $15; dinner: $5 to $12 for appetizers and $16 to $26 for entrées. EJ’s is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner Monday through Sunday. For reservations, call 751-1150.

food notes

Mash Mouth

Ever had your ice cream mashed on marble before it’s served to you? Given the crowd at the newly opened Marble Slab Creamery people like it that way.

The Marble Slab Creamery, a nationwide chain, reached Memphis two weeks ago and is as much about the experience as it is about the ice cream. It works like this: Choose among the 38 flavors of ice cream, 35 toppings, and 9 cones, then watch the Creamery-ers smooth the ice cream onto a frozen marble slab, mash the toppings into the ice cream, and then serve it up in a cone. Among the ice creams: egg nog, peanut butter banana, and chocolate amaretto. Toppings vary from every candy bar imaginable to miniature marshmallows and sliced almonds. Customers’ favorite cones include vanilla cinnamon and white chocolate.

The Creamery makes its own ice cream and cones from scratch and also sells frozen yogurt, ice cream pies, fresh-baked items, and gourmet coffee.

Marble Slab Creamery is located in Germantown at the Shops of Saddle Creek. The hours are 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and noon to 10 p.m. Sunday.

A New Market With New Flavors

And speaking of ice cream … Are you in the mood for Jamaican banana ice cream? There’s only one place in Memphis you can find it.

Three weeks ago, Epicure, a European gourmet market, opened in Midtown to sell a wide variety of foods, from Belgian chocolates to French lemonade. Epicure sells fresh bread and ice cream, both of which are made in the store daily.

“This place is different. You can’t find the Jamaican banana or the white chocolate and strawberry ice cream like ours anywhere else in Memphis,” store owner Michel Leny says. “I grew up in Belgium eating the same chocolates we sell, and they are the best. We are only one of eight businesses that carry them, and the only one in the Mid-South.”

Along with the gourmet foods, Epicure has chefs cooking new items daily — crabcakes rémoulade and roast chicken with passion fruit and almond orzo. Epicure also sells seafood fresh from Florida and lamb stuffed with herbs and vegetables.

Epicure is located at 208 N. Evergreen. The hours are 10 a.m.- 8 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Road Trip

Peaches, peanuts, and homemade biscuits — all are on the agenda of the Southern Foodways Alliance’s (SFA) field trip to Greensboro, North Carolina.

This is the first of a series of Southern Foodways Alliance field trips and an addition to the annual Foodways symposium held at Ole Miss.

There are 75 to 80 spots open for the trip, scheduled July 13th through July 15th. Says John T. Edge, director of SFA, “It’s a true field trip to get immersed in the world of food.”

The trip will include a tour through Goat Lady Dairy, where Ginnie and Steve Tate will discuss gardening and serve samples of award-winning cheese. Participants will also learn to make biscuits. Also scheduled is the Boiled Peanut Party.

Edge expects participants from across the country. The trip is open to the general public at $250 per person and $225 for SFA members. Hotel costs are not included. For registration or more information call John T. Edge at (662) 915-5993. — Hannah Walton

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Dishing It Out

Why are so many different versions of Italian dishes found in
restaurants today? Maybe because those who dish it out take it personally —
creating recipes with a faithfully individual touch. Dino’s Italian fare is no
different. Dino’s is as unique as its owners — Rudy, Mario, and Dino
Grisanti. Plus, Dino’s has been in existence in Memphis for over 25 years, as
loyal to the community as it is to the cuisine.

Dino’s has the feel of an old-time diner, from its swinging doors
to its seat-yourself atmosphere. With two dining rooms to choose from, both
seating approximately 40 each, there’s plenty of space for a party of two or a
large family.

For starters, we ordered the toasted ravioli and the mozzarella
sticks. The ravioli pillows were tasty and stuffed with warm spinach, garlic,
and Parmesan, instead of the traditional ricotta cheese, beef, or Italian
sausage. A simple tomato meat sauce flavored with an abundance of garlic
accompanied the ravioli. The mozzarella sticks were lightly breaded and
accompanied alla marinara. (Alla marinara refers to a simply prepared,
“sailor style” tomato sauce served with herbs.) Dino’s sauce had an
interesting twist, featuring large chunks of celery and onion in addition to
the tomatoes, garlic, and thyme.

Dino’s menu offers many homemade Italian favorites, including
ravioli, chicken Parmesan, spaghetti tossed with garlic butter, marinara, or
meat sauce, lasagna, and fettuccini Alfredo. The entrées come with a
house Italian salad, though you can opt for the tossed salad. The house salad
contains iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, green olives, black olives, sliced banana
peppers, celery, and diced Italian salami and is covered with a tangy
vinaigrette (usually a combination of oil, salt, pepper, mustard, and herbs).
The salad was fresh and tasty. The tanginess of the vinaigrette enhanced the
flavors of the salami and the vegetables.

Our first entrée, spaghetti and meatballs, was plentiful,
though the pasta was overcooked. Pasta is preferably served al dente or cooked
only until firm, not soft or overdone. Two large, fragrant meatballs, heavily
flavored with garlic, are served in a traditional red sauce. (If you are a big
eater, I would suggest ordering an additional side of meatballs.) The red
sauce was hearty and flavored with hints of oregano, onion, thyme, salt, and
black pepper.

PHOTOS BY JOHN
LANDRIGAN

A distinctly different entrée but one full of flavor was the
fettuccini Alfredo topped with slices of grilled chicken breast. The
traditional bleached, wide pasta noodles intermingled with broad spinach
noodles and both came al dente. An Alfredo sauce incorporating heavy cream,
garlic, Parmesan cheese, and butter bound the pastas, which were topped with
pieces of grilled chicken. The delicate aroma of the cream, grilled chicken,
cheese, and garlic tantalized the senses. Now that’s amore.

The veal Parmesan, however, proved to be our favorite. Thin
slices of veal cutlets, pounded flat and dredged through egg and breadcrumbs
then sautéed on both sides until golden brown, were placed adjacent to
a bed of spaghetti with meat sauce. The veal had its own covering of marinara
tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese and was so tender you could slice it with a
fork — no knife necessary. I would recommend this dish to anyone who is a fan
of veal Parmesan; it’s one of the best I’ve eaten.

One surprise at Dino’s is their version of Italian bread, which
is served in thick slices (like Texas toast), heavily buttered and grilled.
Patrons devour it even though it is not the traditional bread companion found
at other Italian restaurants.

Although the chefs at Dino’s prepare all the desserts, shame on
them for not having any Italian desserts on the menu. Where is the tiramisu,
cannoli, and spumoni? We ordered the key lime pie, New York-style cheesecake,
carrot cake, and pecan pie. The thin slice of tangy key lime pie laid the
foundation for star-shaped dollops of whipped cream. And while the light corn
syrup and egg mixture capped by toasted pecans of the pecan pie melted in your
mouth, the sinfully dense and rich cheesecake was a little too sweet. The
carrot cake’s raisins, cloves, cinnamon, and walnuts were nestled between
layers of lightly applied cream cheese frosting.

Dino’s Grill is located at 645 N. McLean Blvd. and is open
Tuesday through Sunday from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Beer is offered but there is no full bar available. Dino’s does permit patrons
to bring their own wine.


food notes

Fast Food

For those of you in a rush at lunchtime, Cafe Olé wants
your business. The restaurant is offering “A Power Lunch Beyond Your
Expectations.” Just make your reservation (requires a credit card
number), pre-order from Cafe Olé’s lunch menu, and then show up. Cafe
Olé manager Deloris Boyce guarantees that your food will be served
within10 minutes of the reservation time.

Boyce says that response to the deal has been slow, despite the
offer being on the table — literally, there’s a card announcing the lunch on
each table — for over a month. “No more than two” V.I.P. lunches
have been served. Boyce says that most do not want to give out a credit card
number over the phone. In addition, she says that there has not been as much
advertisement for the offer as she might like. Still, Cafe Olé will
continue its V.I.P. lunches. “We’re going to keep with it,” Boyce
says. “If it works, it works.” You can reserve a table Monday
through Friday during lunch hours by calling 274-1504.

Chris Przybyszewski

Risky Business

First impression of Yellow Fever Mesquite Smoked Pepper Mustard
Sauce: horror, thoughts of certain death. First taste: delicious!

The maker of the sauce, Feverish Foods, is a one-man operation
that’s been in business for about two years. Jeff McGovern had been concocting
the very tasty and unique stuff for about three years, but in 1999, he began
marketing it.

But what’s up with that off-putting name? “I just thought of
it,” says McGovern. “It’s kind of in bad taste, but it tastes good.
The mosquitoes carried the fever and the mesquite-smoked yellow
habañero peppers carry the flavor.” Okay.

McGovern says Yellow Fever is selling well. He attributes that
success to the fact that it’s very unusual, versatile, and there’s nothing
else like it.

What’s in the future for Feverish Foods? A small-pox sauce?
“No, no, no, no … no more diseases,” says McGovern, “but I’m
thinking about doing a Jamaican jerk paste and a hot sauce.”

You can purchase Yellow Fever at Cheffie’s Market, Miss
Cordelia’s in Harbor Town, and some area grocery stores. For info, call 758-
9661.

Jeremy Spencer

The Great Outdoors

Forget for a second the acts playing at the brand-new Live at the
Garden outdoors-concert series at the Botanic Garden — Isaac Hayes, Kallen
Esperian, and the Robert Cray Band, among them — to focus on the food.
Simply, this series is no ordinary corndog-and-turkey-leg affair. While taking
in the music, patrons can head straight to the wine bar and then chow down on
food offered by vendors such as Sekisui, Corky’s, and Automatic Slim’s (or
bring their own picnics).

And then there’s the Encore Club Lounge. Located in the garden’s
Hardin Hall, the club will have a bar and fancy finger food (Chez Philippe has
signed on) and a staff so full that even the bathroom will be manned. Designer
William R. Eubanks is in charge of atmosphere, providing a different lounge-y
setting for each concert. But most important of all, since the series occurs
when it is barbarically hot (June-September), there will be air
conditioning.

The Encore Club Lounge will cost you, though. Starting price of
the four levels of membership — Bravo, Orchestra, Maestro, Impresario — is
$5,000.

Live at the Garden kicks off with Isaac Hayes on June 15th. For
more information, call 685-1566.

Susan Ellis

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

On the Road

A journey of a thousand miles starts not with a single step, as might be supposed, or even with a single suitcase. It starts with the first Egg McMuffin.

Of course, this is my own journey. Yours may start with two tabs of Vivarin and a cinnamon roll, or a latte and a banana, with the peel flung ceremoniously out the window at the first on-ramp. We all have our own rituals for eating on the road.

Travelers cannot eat the way they do at home. Can we agree this is impossible? The fridge has been replaced by a malfunctioning cooler, the dining-room table makes way for the dashboard, and the trusty microwave has been replaced by less savory-looking mini-mart models that have seen the insides of too many overheated cheez dogs.

Some travelers bemoan these changes; they become known as city folks, candy-ass tourists, or Californians (or whatever scapegoat state is next to yours). The savvy traveler adapts, thrives, and then comes to find a whole new sense of security in the away-from-home appetites that emerge.

Now, there may be travelers who lapse into uncontrollable veggie-eating and develop a fixation on dry, whole-grain toast. I don’t see a lot of them in my journeys. Mostly I see other people like myself: We become pigs or kids or some happy combination of the two. Cleaning out the car at the end of a trip is like emerging from a dream, and the longer the trip, the weirder the dream: Did I really eat two packages of beef jerky, potato chips, 10 Mandarin oranges, a whole package of cough drops, a Mounds bar, a McMuffin, and three hash browns?

The funny thing is, much of what I eat when I travel, I eat only when I travel. I have no patience for jerky the rest of the time, but on the road it’s a soothing thing, salty chewing gum that lasts for miles. Ditto for the McBreakfast and all those oranges consumed in one 24-hour period.

It’s garbage, this on-the-road eating. But I don’t really want to change it, though I go through the motions of meal-planning at the beginning of almost every trip. I start out with little bottles of orange juice and maybe granola bars, a gallon or two of water, my own thermos of coffee. But like a much-loved CD or the extra double-D batteries, these healthy ambitions get lost quickly in the inevitable entropy of travel. Granola bars crumble only to reemerge two months later as empty wrappers from car-seat crevices (perhaps the seats have their own appetites, which include more fiber). Orange juice undergoes a miraculous transformation into weak, fast-food coffee (more caffeine, and the cups fit better in the rickety little cupholders). And any vows to eat salad for lunch and a well-rounded dinner come to naught somewhere between rest stop 15A and the “Next Services 52 miles” sign, when ranch-flavored Corn Nuts, a chocolate bar, and a breath mint suddenly seem like reasonable items on the lunch menu mainly because they’re the only things available in the roadside vending machine.

Not that I don’t have some standards when it comes to what I eat on the road. It can’t drip, thus eliminating many otherwise excellent foods such as mangoes, popsicles, and ramen noodle soups. It has to fit in the cupholder or the little change reservoir and be something that I can pick up without looking at. And preferably it leaves residue that I can lick off my fingers.

But basically I want something that has no relationship to my normal diet. I want to mark each trip as outside of my day-to-day life. I want to slip from conscientious to unconscionable as easily as we cross from one county to the next, and I’ll wake up tomorrow with the unspoiled appetite of a child.

Pass the Corn Nuts, please. The journey begins now.


If you’re truly feeling guilty about your road-trip regimen, some intellectual rationalization may help. Call it research, take along one of these food books, and make your trip meaningful, if not dietetically sound.

Food Finds: America’s Best Local Foods and the People Who Produce Them, by Allison Engel and Margaret Engel (Quill, 2000). A quirky and comprehensive road map to all the stuff that you’re going to miss if you’re not from here. The authors cover all the bases, including ordering info for armchair travelers and visiting hours for those who like to meet the makers.

Eat Your Way Across the U.S.A., by Jane and Michael Stern (Broadway Books, 1997). Truthfully, either this or the newer edition of Road Food will keep you well fed. These enthusiastic yet discerning travel eaters can stop on a dime for a roadside joint with something tasty to discover.

Travelers’ Tales Food, edited by Richard Sterling (Travelers’ Tales, 1996). Sometimes it’s not so much where you eat but how. This anthology addresses the latter question with essays on eating from all over the world. A great way to get in the mood for exploration.

Manifold Destiny: The One, the Only, Guide to Cooking on Your Car Engine! by Chris Maynard, Bill Scheller, William Scheller, Christopher Maynard (Villard Books, 1998). Combine dining with driving in an impeccably fuel-efficient way. This isn’t just a theory: These guys provide mileage charts for every recipe. Just tuck that tetrazzini under the hood and drive 45 miles (freeway) until it’s done. You’ll be the envy of everyone at the rest stop! — MW

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Moonstruck

Close your eyes. Can you hear Bob Marley singing in the background? Do you feel the warm breeze blowing through your hair, the humidity on your neck? Are we on a tropical island? No, it’s just another rainy Saturday night in Memphis, and we’re at the Blue Moon Restaurant and Tropical Bar. It may not be the Caribbean, but you wouldn’t know by the cuisine.

The Blue Moon feels intimate, with a smallish main dining room and bar area and a unique dining porch jutting onto the brick-lined interior street of the Chickasaw Oaks Plaza shopping center. The walls are vibrant coral and tropical green. Royal blue sconces with half-moons provide a delicate aura. Although the décor is tasteful with a wonderful palette of colors, it could be enhanced with tropical plants, murals, or photos to create a more native atmosphere.

Our evening began with the following appetizers: roasted garlic and St. André cheese with Granny Smith apples and toasted croutons; black mussels in a Jamaican “run-down;” crab cakes; and wild mushrooms and spinach. The mussels were plentiful, swimming in a French Creole sauce of coconut milk and thyme, flavored with a habañero chili. The heat of the chile was tempered by the coconut milk and did not overpower the delicate flavor of the mussels.

The chunks of crab in the crab cakes were a surprise. I haven’t been able to identify the lumps of crab in a crab cake since I left the East Coast. Many locally prepared crab cakes are overly seasoned and mixed with breadcrumbs until the crab is broken up and unidentifiable. The crab cakes at the Blue Moon are the real deal: lightly seasoned, lightly breaded, and not overwhelmingly bathed in mayonnaise. A mango jalapeño aioli (garlic mayonnaise) drizzled over baby greens cradled the crab cakes. The mango’s sweetness and the blisteringly hot jalapeño enhanced the garlic mayonnaise, embracing the crab as well the taste buds.

Our favorite appetizer was the amazingly simple yet flavorful roasted elephant garlic bulb and St. André cheese. Served on a platter, the garlic and cheese sat center stage with thinly sliced Granny Smith apples, red grapes, and toasted croutons. The toasted baguette croutons were the perfect base for the scoops of smooth roasted garlic, apple, and cheese. The bitterness of the cheese balanced the tanginess of the apple.

Four very eclectic and distinct salads are offered at the Blue Moon. Unable to decide, we ordered one of each: the house salad with mesclun greens and tomatoes, the Mediterranean salad, the rémoulade salad, and the signature Blue Moon salad. The house salad is a Provencal mixture known as mesclun, young salad greens from beds of seeds sown together. The greens include wild chicory, mâche (lamb’s lettuce), curly escarole, dandelion, rocket (arugula), and other tender lettuces. A raspberry vinaigrette drizzled atop the greens enhanced the flavors. The Mediterranean salad mixed the same mesclun greens with roasted tomatoes and kalamata olives. The epiphany of this salad? The warm pecan-crusted goat cheese. The aroma was tantalizing, and when the pecan and cheese ball was pierced with a fork, a prize of warm goat cheese created a union between all of the ingredients. The rémoulade salad of mesclun greens served with avocados and large shrimp was completed by a classic French rémoulade sauce, which consists of mayonnaise seasoned with mustard, anchovy essence, finely chopped gherkins, capers, parsley, chevril, and tarragon. The Blue Moon signature salad is a bed of mesclun greens tossed lightly with raspberry vinaigrette, topped with walnuts, Gorgonzola (Italian blue cheese), sun-dried cherries, and Granny Smith apples.

The portions at the Blue Moon are ample yet not overwhelming. We found ourselves overindulging, helpless to resist. The entrées proved to be individual masterpieces. The Gulf Coast bouillabaisse, originally a hearty fisherman’s stew, is prepared with large shrimp, white fish, and mussels and is flavored with saffron and a rouille. (A rouille is a spicy red-pepper and garlic mayonnaise from Provence served with fish soups.) The flavors were pure pleasure, though the shellfish overwhelmed the stew. The grilled Black Angus filet, generous and grilled to order, melted in your mouth. The beef is enhanced with a yellow onion demiglace, Gorgonzola, and a red and green chili aioli. Mashed potatoes and fresh asparagus completed the filet presentation. The grilled pork tenderloin was served in a reduction seasoned with Asian spices and gently nestled in a bed of basmati rice infused with coconut. The aromatic and nutty flavor of the rice embraced the subtlety of the coconut. The final entrée was the duck breast in a shiitake mushroom demiglace. The duck was served appropriately medium rare. The duck was charismatic, earthy and wild, and served upon grilled polenta, a baked or fried Italian cornmeal pudding.

After the entrées and so full as to be on the verge of exploding, we decided to risk human splatter and ordered four of Blue Moon’s homemade desserts. The cappuccino cheesecake had a touch of espresso and an almond ladyfinger cookie crust. The cheesecake filling was light and unlike the dense New York-style cheesecake. The white-chocolate and raspberry crème brûlée was served with bits of raspberries. The “chocolate oblivion” is a rich flourless cake. The result is a creamy decadent dessert adorned with drizzled raspberry purée and fresh whipped cream. However, the winner of the desserts, hands down, was the bread pudding du jour. The pudding marries warm chunks of apples and hints of cinnamon, and vanilla ice cream capped and melted into the bread pudding.

The Blue Moon Restaurant and Tropical Bar is located in the Chickasaw Oaks Plaza at 3092 Poplar Avenue. It’s open for lunch and dinner, and reservations are requested. Price range: $10 to $25 per person. A private dining room and full bar are available.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Wealthy Tastes

Open since last August, Tycoon Asian Restaurant and Noodle Shop offers a sampler of the diverse tastes of East Asian cuisine — from the curry, dried fruits, and nuts of Indonesian and the ginger, soy sauces, and garlic of Malaysian to the more familiar rices and noodles of Chinese and Vietnamese. Patrons can try a noodle soup from Vietnam, tofu seaweed soups from Japan, a wok stir-fried noodle entrée from Singapore, breaded pork chops with marinated lemon vegetables from Malaysia, and wok-tossed rice selections from China.

Tycoon, located in the Kirby Parkway shopping center, is an intimate restaurant, with seating for 60 to 70 people. Its interior is simple and tastefully decorated with plants, artwork, white tablecloths, and black chairs. The atmosphere is made complete with background classical music. (My Asian dinner companion informed me that it is typical in Hong Kong, her home, for restaurants to faintly play classical, not Oriental, music.)

The appetizer section of Tycoon’s menu offers items such as chicken and beef satay, spring rolls, crab Rangoon, pot stickers, and coconut prawns. We chose the Malaysian chicken satay and the Chinese coconut prawns. Both appetizers were displayed on square Japanese-style trays. The satay featured strips of chicken breast skewered and lightly grilled and served with a light peanut sauce that had been simmered with garlic and curry. The coconut prawns were large butterflied shrimp, not the tiger prawns I expected. The shrimp were dipped in a sweet coconut batter and fried. A traditional Oriental sweet-and-sour sauce and a red chile sauce accompanied the shrimp. Be warned, though, the chile pepper sauce is very hot; use in moderation to avoid overpowering the shrimp.

While the appetizers are plentiful, don’t make the mistake of passing on the soups. Tycoon’s selections include a Vietnamese beef noodle (Pho), Chinese shrimp wonton noodle soup, and Thai Tome Kha Kai (coconut milk soup). Our table chose to share the Malaysian beef satay rice noodles. Presented in a delicately painted porcelain bowl, the soup was glistening with chunks of onion and strips of beef tenderloin. The vermicelli rice noodles were abundant, and the base had a spicy flavor with hints of red chile, garlic, and curry. Chinese mushrooms (dried mushrooms that have been rehydrated) without their stems completed the soup.

Our guest from Hong Kong guided our entrée selections. The goal of our party was not to sample any “Americanized” Oriental dishes. We wanted to experience authentic Asian cuisine and eat in traditional style. Therefore, the main courses were served family-style in the middle of the table and the steamed white rice was served separately. Wooden chopsticks, forks, and small plates were placed in front of each of us. We chose not to utilize the small porcelain bowls for the rice. Our Asian guest quickly picked up a fork. I asked her if we were being offensive by not using the bowls and chopsticks. She explained that she only uses chopsticks when she is eating rice from a bowl or selecting pieces of the entrées to sample. Appropriate protocol for eating off a plate is to use a fork or spoon. In addition, she commented that plastic or ivory chopsticks are used in her home and that wooden chopsticks are used in America for the convenience. Once the etiquette was established, the entrée ordering ensued.

Three very eclectic entrées leapt off the pages of the menu, and the “Hong Kong Cho Ho Fun” was the first we devoured. Ho Fun is a wide rice noodle. Steam swirled above the platter as it was placed on the table. The portion was more than ample. Slices of beef tenderloin smothered in dark soy sauce mingled with bean sprouts, green onions, and carrots. The slightest essence of garlic and the dark soy sauce gave the dish an appealing sweetness.

The Chinese “Perfect Match” was our second selection, and it was just that. Two cast-iron kayak-shaped platters cradled the most vibrant and colorful dish of the evening. Sizzling, curried green-lip mussels garnished with chunks of green pepper and carrot filled one of the kayaks. The adjacent kayak overflowed with green-lip mussels swimming in a black bean sauce with pieces of onion, carrot, and green peas. The menu claims that this dish is delectable. It was.

The incomparable coconut curry chicken is classic Indonesian. The blend of flavors from the coconut and curry tantalized the senses. The coconut milk engulfed pieces of potato, onion, green pepper, raisins, and cashew nuts. Red chile pepper was subtly added, offsetting the coconut milk mixture perfectly. Traditionally, this dish would be served with steamed rice atop the chicken, onion, potato, and carrots, and then covered with the coconut, raisins, and cashews.

For our final selection of the evening, our Asian guest consulted with the owner, who was more than willing to accommodate an off-the-menu request. A few minutes passed and a large white plate appeared. A succulent orange roughie fillet that had been lightly steamed embraced a delicate ginger, lemon, and garlic butter sauce. Atop the flaky fish were steamed snow peas, broccoli, carrots, Chinese corn, and scallions. The longer the fish sat, the more the sauce absorbed the ginger. Delicious.

There is no separate dessert menu at Tycoon. After our entrées, a pinwheel slice of plain yellow cake or coffeecake rolled with cream were brought to the table. Both were moist and flavorful, an encore to a delightful culinary experience.

Tycoon is located at 3307 Kirby Parkway. Hours: Monday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Take-out available by calling 362-8788.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Get Real

Forget jet-setting to Puerto Vallarta. Taqueria La Guadalupana provides the true flavors of Mexico right here in a strip mall. This is not Tex-Mex.

Located at 4818 Summer, Guadalupana is family-owned and has been open for two years. The interior is mint green with a tile floor and metal chairs and tables. Little painted houses hang from the walls. But what’s most striking is how this restaurant buzzes — with the chatter of 100 or so patrons, with the mariachi music, with the hustle and bustle of the staff.

The meal starts with a basket of fresh, warm tortilla chips and a green tomatilla salsa and a traditional red, tomato-based salsa. The tomatillo salsa was warm and spicy with jalapeño peppers and lime juice. The red salsa, the favorite of the table, had large chunks of onion, pepper, and tomato and was finished with cilantro. To accompany our salsas we ordered the guacamole, which has a bit of citrus to keep the dip from discoloring. In addition, the guacamole had hints of fresh garlic, coriander, and onion married with diced pieces of red tomato.

There are no alcoholic beverages at Guadalupana, though they do serve a variety of interesting beverages for those wishing to embrace the total Mexican meal experience. The orchata is a very sweet rice drink that looks like skim milk poured over ice cubes. It was refreshing and left a hint of nutmeg in your mouth. The fruity and fizzy non-alcoholic sangria lacked the mixture of fruits one comes to expect from an authentic sangria — oranges, lemons, and limes. This sangria tasted like a sparkling grape juice.

For dinner, we sampled the Combinacion de Fajitas (chicken, steak, and shrimp fajitas). The meats were sautéed together and piled high on a platter. Although appealing in presentation and quantity, the entire dish had the overwhelming flavor of shrimp. Disappointing. Remember this tip: “If you are cooking with seafood, always add it at the last minute.”

For the vegetarian, Guadalupana’s menu offers many selections. These include the Quesadilla Con Queso, Arroz, Frijoles y Crema, a flour tortilla folded with cheese, rice, beans, and sour cream, and the Sope Vegetariano, a thick fried tortilla with beans, rice, onions, sour cream, cheese, tomatoes, lettuce, cilantro, and avocado.

The vegetarian at our table chose the Enchiladas de Queso en Salsa Roja, Arroz, Frijoles, Crema y Ensalada, three cheese enchiladas in a red sauce surrounded by rice, beans, sour cream, and a salad. It’s a colorful dish that will make your mouth water the moment you lay eyes on it: fresh corn casings stuffed with a cheese mixture and covered with a juajillo chili sauce. The juajillo chili is the dried version of the mirasol pepper — mirasol being Spanish for “looking at the sun” — which gave the enchiladas an earthy and slightly bitter flavor. A subtle yet flavorful rice, infused with crushed tomato, surrounded the enchiladas.

I ordered an a la cart dish that included Sope de Asada, a Chile Relleno, and a chicken tamale. The Sope de Asada is a sopapilla hollowed to create a pocket for chopped steak. The overflowing cubes of tender steak, with shredded lettuce and sour cream, crowned the excavated fried bread, with the removed slice of sopapilla acting as a canopy. The chicken tamale proved to be small, dry, coarse, and flavorless. The Chile Relleno was a large pablano pepper that cradled a bed of Monterey jack cheese. The stuffed pepper was lightly breaded and fried. The Chile Relleno burst with the tanginess of the pepper and was pleasantly tempered by the cheese. The Chile Relleno disappeared quick.

My partner ordered our table’s favorite selection. Undeniably, the Bistek a la Mexicana, Arroz, Frizoles, Tortilla de Maiz y Ensalada is one of the specialties of Guadalupana. The thin slices of steak are seared to perfection and then covered with onions, red and green peppers, and a tomato-based sauce. The freshness and simplicity of the ingredients enhanced the color and taste of the dish. The aroma of the dish met the table before the waitress set the plate down. This was truly the climax of our dining experience and the entrée every one of us would go back for. A nearby table ordered the steak as well but piled high on a roll as a Torta de Asada, a Mexican steak sandwich. Another dish to remember on a return visit.

The refried beans were unsatisfactory as a side dish. Runny, flavorless, and lacking the spattering of onions one expects. Are the beans even fresh, or are they powdered?

The portions served at Guadalupana are generous, and we left gorged and satisfied. Real full on a meal that was the real deal.

Taqueria La Guadalupana is open Sunday through Thursday from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 8 a.m. to midnight. The prices range from $1.25 to $11.

Categories
Food & Drink Food Reviews

The Buy & Buy

On weekday evenings, the corner of South Main and Vance is quiet
except for the rattle of trolley cars rolling by. But all that changes
when you push open the front door to Frank’s South Main Market &
Deli
.

First off, manager Mark Stukenborg samples with gusto a bag
of barbecue pita chips. “Try one,” he urges. “They’re great.” Shoppers
are chatting it up (“Where are the eggs?” a woman asks), and, in the
deli, Stukenborg’s son, Thomas, finishes a catering order for the
neighborhood association’s monthly meeting. “It’s a little crazy around
here,” he says, scooping up a mound of Green Goddess broccoli cole
slaw. “You want a taste?”

Since its grand opening October 30th, Frank’s is quickly filling a
niche for downtown residents who have been clamoring for a grocery
store in the city’s historic arts district. Already, the store offers
almost 4,000 items, ranging from Kitchen Basic soup stock to Paul
Newman’s treats for dogs. The cooler is fully stocked, as well, with
San Pellegrino, Jones Sodas, Sioux City Sarsaparilla, and dozens of
imported beers.

Don’t be fooled, however, by the cold drinks. “We are not a
convenience store,” says Lance Lester, who opened the market
with Beale Street club owner Bud Chittom. “We are a grocery
store that is convenient.”

The market’s inventive assortment of homemade salads, sandwiches,
and wraps reiterates Lester’s claim. The I.B.M. — that stands for
Italian Business Man — serves up pepperoni, Genoa salami,
Cappicola ham, provolone, and cappoatina dressing, a mix of eggplant,
capers, and peppers. “The recipe for cappoatina came from a friend,”
Lester says. “People like it so much, they eat it as a side.”

The House Special Italian Dip is pot roast with roasted peppers,
provolone, and au jus on a bun. The House Smoked Turkey Cobb combines
turkey, mixed greens, aged cheddar, bacon crumbles, and caramelized red
onion. “We smoke our turkey and ham in the basement,” Lester says.
“Smoking gives the meat a nice flavor, especially when it’s served
hot.”

Insulated and reusable grocery bags keep food warm or cold for
delivery to homes and businesses by the market’s three-wheel bicycle,
which is parked in front of the store when not in use. Catered orders
also are delivered with similar finesse: They arrive by way of the
market’s 1951 Ford pickup, painted a very bright shade of blue.

Frank’s South Main Market & Deli,

327 S. Main (523-0101)

If you are at loose ends since the seasonal produce markets closed,
then listen up: A few local farmers have set up a D.I.Y. Farmers
Market
to sell organic produce on Saturday mornings in
Cooper-Young.

The impromptu gathering takes place from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. in front
of First Congregational Church. Participants change from week to week,
but a handful of growers hope to sell produce until the end of
December.

“Last year, I kept selling until the temperature dropped to 17
degrees,” says Tim Smith, who on a recent Saturday had a lush selection
of kale, arugula, Swiss chard, turnip greens, and tender lettuce.
D.I.Y. Farmers Market, Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., 1000 S.
Cooper

Don’t be surprised if a Boy Scout knocks on your door Saturday
asking for food. Even more important: Give him a donation.

Thousands of Scouts will be canvassing the Mid-South on November
22nd, trying to collect 50,000 pounds of nonperishable food for the
Food Bank. The drive, called “Scouting for Food,” is the most
important community service project for the regional Chickasaw
Council.

“We want to show the boys how important it is to give back to the
community,” says Michael Donnell, the project’s chairman.

To facilitate the council’s ambitious goal, food collection barrels
have been set up at two Schnucks locations, on Farmington in Germantown
and on Truse Parkway in East Memphis, and at MHC Ford (1721 Transport)
and Truck Parts Specialists (757 East Brooks) in Whitehaven.

Scouts also will be at the Germantown Schnucks Saturday morning. “We
can accept any type of nonperishable,” Donnell says, “including things
like pasta, cereal, and soup.”