Categories
Food & Drink Food Reviews

The Buy & Buy

On weekday evenings, the corner of South Main and Vance is quiet
except for the rattle of trolley cars rolling by. But all that changes
when you push open the front door to Frank’s South Main Market &
Deli
.

First off, manager Mark Stukenborg samples with gusto a bag
of barbecue pita chips. “Try one,” he urges. “They’re great.” Shoppers
are chatting it up (“Where are the eggs?” a woman asks), and, in the
deli, Stukenborg’s son, Thomas, finishes a catering order for the
neighborhood association’s monthly meeting. “It’s a little crazy around
here,” he says, scooping up a mound of Green Goddess broccoli cole
slaw. “You want a taste?”

Since its grand opening October 30th, Frank’s is quickly filling a
niche for downtown residents who have been clamoring for a grocery
store in the city’s historic arts district. Already, the store offers
almost 4,000 items, ranging from Kitchen Basic soup stock to Paul
Newman’s treats for dogs. The cooler is fully stocked, as well, with
San Pellegrino, Jones Sodas, Sioux City Sarsaparilla, and dozens of
imported beers.

Don’t be fooled, however, by the cold drinks. “We are not a
convenience store,” says Lance Lester, who opened the market
with Beale Street club owner Bud Chittom. “We are a grocery
store that is convenient.”

The market’s inventive assortment of homemade salads, sandwiches,
and wraps reiterates Lester’s claim. The I.B.M. — that stands for
Italian Business Man — serves up pepperoni, Genoa salami,
Cappicola ham, provolone, and cappoatina dressing, a mix of eggplant,
capers, and peppers. “The recipe for cappoatina came from a friend,”
Lester says. “People like it so much, they eat it as a side.”

The House Special Italian Dip is pot roast with roasted peppers,
provolone, and au jus on a bun. The House Smoked Turkey Cobb combines
turkey, mixed greens, aged cheddar, bacon crumbles, and caramelized red
onion. “We smoke our turkey and ham in the basement,” Lester says.
“Smoking gives the meat a nice flavor, especially when it’s served
hot.”

Insulated and reusable grocery bags keep food warm or cold for
delivery to homes and businesses by the market’s three-wheel bicycle,
which is parked in front of the store when not in use. Catered orders
also are delivered with similar finesse: They arrive by way of the
market’s 1951 Ford pickup, painted a very bright shade of blue.

Frank’s South Main Market & Deli,

327 S. Main (523-0101)

If you are at loose ends since the seasonal produce markets closed,
then listen up: A few local farmers have set up a D.I.Y. Farmers
Market
to sell organic produce on Saturday mornings in
Cooper-Young.

The impromptu gathering takes place from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. in front
of First Congregational Church. Participants change from week to week,
but a handful of growers hope to sell produce until the end of
December.

“Last year, I kept selling until the temperature dropped to 17
degrees,” says Tim Smith, who on a recent Saturday had a lush selection
of kale, arugula, Swiss chard, turnip greens, and tender lettuce.
D.I.Y. Farmers Market, Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., 1000 S.
Cooper

Don’t be surprised if a Boy Scout knocks on your door Saturday
asking for food. Even more important: Give him a donation.

Thousands of Scouts will be canvassing the Mid-South on November
22nd, trying to collect 50,000 pounds of nonperishable food for the
Food Bank. The drive, called “Scouting for Food,” is the most
important community service project for the regional Chickasaw
Council.

“We want to show the boys how important it is to give back to the
community,” says Michael Donnell, the project’s chairman.

To facilitate the council’s ambitious goal, food collection barrels
have been set up at two Schnucks locations, on Farmington in Germantown
and on Truse Parkway in East Memphis, and at MHC Ford (1721 Transport)
and Truck Parts Specialists (757 East Brooks) in Whitehaven.

Scouts also will be at the Germantown Schnucks Saturday morning. “We
can accept any type of nonperishable,” Donnell says, “including things
like pasta, cereal, and soup.”

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Any Way You Slice It

What makes pizza taste so good? Is it the crust, the sauce, the
toppings? It’s all of these things — and sometimes it’s none of
them. But pizza just tastes better in a place with a good vibe or funky
atmosphere.

Don’t take my word for it — go see for yourself.

A Slice of … Egypt

New York Pizza & Sub is located to the right of the Lowe’s
parking lot on Perkins near Summer in a small, nondescript building
with a few picnic tables out front. Inside, the tiny dining area is
sparsely furnished with patio furniture, a large TV, and a stereo.

Salah, the owner and sole employee of New York Pizza & Sub, can
be found in the kitchen. His lively personality more than makes up for
the lack of décor. A native of Egypt, Salah has been making
pizzas for 18 years, the first seven of which were in New York.

Walking into New York Pizza & Sub can be a bit disorienting. It
feels more like a friend’s house — a friend who really likes to
talk and makes great pizza.

And what about the pizza? Expect the standard New York style: thin
and chewy with a nice crusty handle, light tomato sauce, gooey cheese,
and sold by the slice.

New York Pizza & Sub, 4523 Summer (761-7771)

Nautical

The Cove is the perfect place to enjoy an old-fashioned cocktail,
suck down a few oysters, watch a movie you’ve never heard of, and smoke
’em if you got ’em. The nautical interior that once filled Anderton’s
definitely sets the Cove apart from other late-night bars. It’s cozy,
cool, and full of surprises.

In addition to oysters and other light fare, the Cove has a small
selection of pizzas on the menu. The most notable is Jim’s Ultimate
Oyster Pizza. Yes, oyster pizza. The crisp crust is
topped with a spinach Rockefeller sauce, marinated artichokes, goat
cheese, bacon, and half a dozen freshly shucked oysters. Like the bar
itself, this pizza offers a new twist on an old favorite. Best of all,
you can enjoy your pizza with a shot of absinthe or a can of Pabst Blue
Ribbon.

The Cove, 2559 Broad (730-0719)

Elvis-style

Broadway Pizza has two dining rooms, a jukebox, a few big TVs, a Ms.
Pac-Man, a racing-car game, a stuffed-animal-grabber game, a ’70s-style
candy vending machine, and a couple hundred pictures of Elvis. Minus
the flat-screen TVs, it feels like 1977 inside. (I consider this a
plus.)

The menu offers many pizzas with unique toppings for people
interested in taking a walk on the wild side (e.g., the chili and taco
pizzas) as well as the standard fare for those who like to keep things
simple. Whether you go crazy or play it safe, you can rest assured that
each pizza is going to taste pretty damn good, arrive cut in squares,
and be accompanied by a bowl of pepperoncinis and green olives.

Broadway Pizza, 2581 Broad (454-7930)

R.I.P. (Rest in Pizza)

Top Five Pizza Places that Will Be Forever Missed

5) Chicago Pizza Factory — Remember when the Chicago Pizza
Factory was a bustling restaurant and not a sad, empty building?

4) Shakey’s — The perfect place to celebrate after a soccer
game. I can still hear the sound of my cleats on the floor as I run to
the front to grab a pizza.

3) Pierotti’s — The standard meeting place for my philosophy
class study group. I always scored the last piece of the group’s
communal pie. My friend swears there were Gummi Bears on the
buffet.

2) Squash Blossom — I could never convince my mom that pizza
was actually healthy, but the Squash Blossom kitchen crew changed all
that.

1) Pat’s — Getting buzzed in, wondering if Mrs. Pat was asleep
or dead, giant hunks of meat toppings, roaches, a pool table, beer,
open all night … how did this place ever go out of business?