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Keepin’ It Cool: Ten Years of Mempops

When he was preparing fresh horseradish-crusted halibut and oysters Rockefeller in the kitchen at Felicia Suzanne’s Restaurant, Chris Taylor didn’t dream he’d one day be making flavored ice pops — or that they’d be synonymous with outdoor Memphis events.

Taylor, 48, is the founder/owner of Mempops, the iconic frozen treat available from his 15 carts and five Airstream trailers around town.

They’re also for sale at his brick-and-mortar shops at 1243 Ridgeway Road and in Crosstown Concourse, along with Mempops merch, including caps and T-shirts.

It may be hard to believe, but Mempops has been around for 10 years.

Taylor came up with the idea in 2015. “I saw people in other cities doing it,” he says. He thought, “I can do that, make it out of my house … go around to places.”

Chris Taylor shows off some of the varieties of Mempops; customers prefer simpler flavors, he says.

“One day I decided to quit my job and go full-time,” Taylor says.

Having grown up in Birmingham, Alabama, Taylor graduated from Lewis & Clark College in Portland, Oregon. He majored in economics but wasn’t sure what career he was going to pursue: “I didn’t know — a banker or financial guy.

“I worked for a bank for three months. I think I had to tuck my shirt in, wear a collared shirt, which is not my style.”

Then a friend he went to college with suggested Taylor move to California and help him with his corn maze, a fall/Halloween attraction where people try to find their way out of a complicated mass of corn stalks. His friend said, “This is a good business. You can make some money.”

“It happened to be at a time when I was not employed. He said, ‘Come to California and run this for me.’ I went down there and worked in a corn maze.”

Players in the Elvis 7s Rugby Tournament cool off with Mempops

The Corn (and Culinary) Maze to Mempops

In 2001, Taylor moved to Memphis and opened Mid-South Maze with Justin Taylor at the Agricenter International. The maze, which is still in operation, was a success.

Around that same time, Taylor began working at Felicia Suzanne’s Restaurant, where he rose from prep cook to sous-chef. Today, Felicia Willett-Schuchardt, who owns Felicia Suzanne’s along with her husband Clay, says she wasn’t surprised when Taylor began Mempops. “Because of [his] love of food, love of product, and love of the nice idea of simplicity. When he told me about his business plan, what he wanted to do, and what he was sourcing, it just seemed natural that was the path he would go down. Because he loved creating. He loved starting with a raw product and not doing a lot to it, and building it from there.”

After about five years at Felicia’s, Taylor left the restaurant to work at Central BBQ. “I wanted to do something that wasn’t fine dining,” he says. “I started working there to learn how to run a different style restaurant. Then one day I decided I don’t want to do a restaurant; I want to make pops.”

Mempops does “a great job,” says Roger Sapp, co-owner of Central BBQ and Sunrise Memphis. “They’ve got a good business model.”

Sapp remembers when Taylor came to work for him at Central BBQ. “He ran a kitchen and he knew how to do everything,” he says, but “I’d never see him running a business like that. He was quiet. But he was a good chef.”

Taylor also got out of the corn maze business. “I wanted to do my own thing. I hadn’t really figured out what it was going to be.”

That’s when a frozen pops business popped into his mind. “This idea of lots of different events, people seeing you everywhere, the idea of being out and about, as well as having a home base, was intriguing.”

He set up shop at his home. “I started messing around and slowly figuring out recipes and figuring out ratios and that kind of stuff, sugar-to-water ratios and different flavors.”

Only fresh fruit is used in their fruit-flavored pops.

A Recipe for Success

Taylor began with 10 flavors. He now offers “over 100, if not more.”

Strawberry, which he made with “fresh strawberries, simple syrup, and lemon juice,” was one of his first flavors. Watermelon was another. “Cut off the top of the watermelon, add simple syrup and lemon juice — just a little acid to make it taste better.”

Taylor poured the liquid into stainless steel molds and put them in a deep freezer in his garage. “Next day I’d take them out, seal them, make another batch, freeze them.”

Now, he says, “I have a whole system that freezes them very quickly.”

Back then, he made about 100 pops a day: “[I’d] do it every day,” he says. Then on Sundays he hoped he’d sell them all.

Roasted peach, avocado, lime, pineapple, and coconut were other flavors he came up with in those early days. “It was a lot of trial and error at first. If you know anything about cooking, you’ve got classic French mother sauces. So we kind of created our own. Same thing, but ice pops.”

Taylor came up with a base, which he played around with. He thought, “We can change this couple of ingredients and make a whole new flavor.” “It was a mix-and-match thing,” he says.

He found his first cart “on Craigslist or eBay” and considered what area he would set it up in. During his first event, Taylor did “well enough to keep doing it.” 

In the beginning, Taylor would go out with 100 pops a day. “Sometimes I’d sell 50 pops,” he says. “I’d be really happy.”

He didn’t have anybody helping him back then. “It was me,” says Taylor. “I was making the pops and putting the cart on the trailer. [I’d] go to St. Jude one day a week and hang out and make friends with some office staff out there.”

Taylor began approaching more people about selling Mempops at their outdoor events. “First, I was calling people and telling them what I was doing, and they were like, ‘Huh?’”

That went on for about six months. “Within a year, it kind of flipped and people started calling me a lot. It took a while to get out there.”

After he bought his second cart, Taylor was selling 1,000 pops a day. He began buying more freezers. “I kept having to buy bigger machines to make more pops,” he says.

Nine years ago, Taylor signed the lease for his first Mempops store, which was the old Rock’n Dough Pizza & Brewery on Ridgeway Road. He opened the second store about two years later. He and his team of employees make the pops in a 2,000-square-foot kitchen on Summer Avenue.

“I feel like when we started there was kind of a rejuvenation of Memphis and this kind of civic pride built up. People were excited about Memphis. Not to say they aren’t now, but they were doing things — like us having our own homegrown product.”

Local restaurants and farmers markets also were going strong. “It was a combination of civic pride and people wanting to support local businesses. I feel like we just kind of came along at the right time.”

The Mempops staff making and packaging the brand’s distinctive pops at their facility on Summer Avenue

“Let’s Call It Mempops”

Mempops now sets up every day for six months during the warmer months. They do close to 500 events a year, Taylor says.

They use carts as well as Airstream trailers. J.C. Youngblood is the chief operator of the mobile business. “I’ve been in the mix with him since the onset,” says Youngblood, who worked with Taylor at Central BBQ. “I run the mobile side of things. The catering and food trucks and whatnot.”

Youngblood thought Mempops would either be a flash in the pan or “something with some staying power and still be around 20 years down the road.” It looks like it’s “trending toward” the latter, Youngblood says.

Over the years, Youngblood has been involved in hospitality, restaurant, and specialty event-based projects as well as live music, TV, and movie shoots. He sees Mempops as a combination of all of these. Also, he says, “People seldom complain when you give them a pop.”

Taylor’s wife, Emily, is in charge of social media as well as working on the mobile side. “We call her our communications specialist,” Taylor says.

Taylor works 13 hours straight on some days. There are “a lot of moving parts” to Mempops. When he’s not at the kitchen, he’s at the stores. He works events. He will “pick up the slack” when he’s needed. 

Monday is the “big prep day” at the Mempops kitchen. They puree the fruits or put them in the juicer. “We use all fresh fruits,” Taylor says.

The mixture is poured into molds. Sticks are inserted into the pops with an extractor before the molds are put in a freezer for 30 minutes. After they’re frozen, the pops are taken out of the molds, put in plastic bags, sealed, put in boxes, labeled, and put in a walk-in freezer.

On a recent Tuesday, people were bustling around the kitchen. One man was cutting up watermelons. Another was using his foot to pump a machine that seals the bags.

Including the “mobile business and everything,” Taylor now has about 45 people working for him. “Most of these are part-time kids.”

He says, “Crews work every day from April to the middle of October. And then it starts slowing down.”

They don’t stop creating Mempops when the weather gets cooler, though. “We do some fun stuff in the winter,” Taylor says. “The menu evolves.”

The cold weather pops include a S’mores pop. They make their own marshmallows for the pops, which are coated with chocolate and graham crackers.

Asked who came up with the name Mempops, Taylor says, “I feel like my wife and I did. I say it was my idea. She says the name was her idea.”

Regardless, he says, “We wanted it to be a Memphis name: Bluff City Pops, River City Pops, [something] like that. But none of that really felt right.”

Then one of them said, “Let’s call it Mempops.”

Flavor and Forward Thinking

Strawberry Lemonade is still their number-one Mempops flavor, Taylor says. “I feel like that’s half of what I make. It’s good. At first I was going to make all these crazy adventurous flavors.” 

But he realized people just wanted simpler flavors. “People wanted what they know. I switched gears,” he says. “More traditional flavors. Then we sprinkle in some different stuff here and there.”

Not every new flavor works. “There were a lot that weren’t good in the beginning.” He once made a dragon fruit Mempop. “It was kind of gross,” he says.

Taylor believes working at restaurants was a plus for his Mempops business. “A lot of it is how to run a kitchen — not running a fine dining kitchen, but how to store everything, clean a work space, work flow stuff you learn by working in the kitchen and on the line.”

He also says “knowing where to source things, knowing different people to call, knowing how to order and find the best price” have all come in handy running Mempops.

They sell Mempops at events in other places, including Jackson, Tennessee; Jonesboro, Arkansas; and Oxford, Mississippi, where the Double Decker Arts Festival is popular. But mainly they sell Mempops in Memphis. “We’re kind of known here. And when you go to different cities, people are like, ‘What is this?’ They don’t do as well.”

Anyhow, Taylor adds, “We’re busy enough here.”

Mempops were recently spotted for sale at Asian Night Market at the Agricenter and Wagging in Memphis in Handy Park.

They do multiple events on any given day, Taylor says. “We’ve done 15 in a day before.”

Mempops can regularly be found at locations including Cordelia’s Market, Shelby Farms Park gift shop, the Memphis Zoo, and Memphis Botanic Garden.

And more of Taylor’s food-related businesses might be showing up in the future. “My newest idea is deli sandwiches. Just doing everything from home — making our own bacon, smoking our own meats. Traditional sandwiches from around the world-type thing.

“I have all kinds of ideas for restaurants,” Taylor says. “Always. I mean, who knows?” 

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Memphis’ Perception Problem

Twenty-one-year-old Emery Bascom lived in Memphis all her life, until moving away to attend Louisiana State University. When meeting new friends and planning hometown visits, Bascom was eager to show her friends around her city. However, she was often met with a familiar response. 

“There’s really only one reaction I ever get when I say I’m from Memphis,” Bascom said. “It’s always like ‘Oh, will I be safe there?’ or ‘Are we going to get shot?’ and I think that’s probably because of the way the news is in Memphis, which is hard sometimes.” 

Emery Bascom (Photo: Courtesy Emery Bascom)

Bascom explained that while this preconceived notion of overwhelming violent crime, specifically gun violence, can be frustrating to Memphis natives, she understands why it exists. 

“I barely even watch the news anymore,” Bascom said. “Sometimes my parents have it on, but watching it makes it feel like everything in my hometown is worse than it is.” 

When observing a traditional Memphis news cycle, it appears many Memphians may echo this frustration. Of three TV news stations, FOX13 Memphis, Action News 5, and WREG Memphis; print news outlet The Commercial Appeal; and the online news source the Daily Memphian, local gun violence was a commonly recurring topic in a recent seven-day period.

Despite widespread frustration from residents of Memphis with overwhelming crime coverage in the news, specifically related to gun violence, crime rates actually fell from 2023 to 2024. The Tennessee Bureau of Investigation (TBI) reported that more than 110,000 major crimes were reported in Memphis last year, less than 2023’s record-breaking high of 124,000 reports. Within this, gun-related violent incidents also decreased 3.4 percent from 2023 to 2024, according to the Memphis-Shelby Crime Commission. 

Traditional media coverage of gun violence in Memphis dominates the news cycle and perpetuates a narrative that is overwhelmingly negative. This is leading Memphis journalists to reconsider how they report on these shootings and how it affects Memphians. 

Lucas Finton (Photo: Ariel Cobbert | The Commercial Appeal)

If It Bleeds, It Leads

“You also have to think about how crime can be down 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, even 10 percent compared to a prior year, but people won’t really see that until they stop hearing the sirens in their neighborhood,” The Commercial Appeal criminal justice reporter Lucas Finton said. “They won’t hear that until you can turn on the 6 o’clock news and the first four stories aren’t shootings or some sort of crime. Media is part of doing that.” 

Finton graduated from the University of Memphis in 2022 with a degree in journalism and strategic media. He has worked at The Commercial Appeal for the past four years.

“When you throw out crime story after crime story, it feels as though crime is at an all-time high and getting worse,” Finton said. “That tends to warp someone’s perception into something that it’s not. It makes the reality of crime, and especially gun violence, feel wrong to readers, so they get confused. It’s hard to put two things in context at the same time, of crime still being high but also going down.” 

Aarron Fleming (Photo: Mark Weber | The Daily Memphian)

Daily Memphian courts and public safety reporter Aarron Fleming has seen how their coverage of crime impacts the public’s view of gun violence in Memphis. 

“Our homicides are down, property crime is down, all these things have been going down for a little bit now, but when you highlight every single shooting and when people see that shootings are constantly in the news, they are not going to feel like crime is down,” Fleming said. “It is a perception issue. They aren’t going to believe the numbers and the data when they see it in the news constantly. People don’t feel safe despite what the numbers say.”

The phrase “If it bleeds, it leads” was popularized towards the end of the 19th century by newspaper publisher William Randolph Hearst. When covering the Spanish-American War, Hearst relied on sensationalizing the war’s drama and violence to compete with other newspapers at the time. 

The timeworn adage still applies to national news coverage today. According to a 2024 Pew Research Center survey, Americans are more likely to seek out news and information about crime than about any other topic except the weather. 

“We, as journalists, have to step away from the ‘if it bleeds, it leads’ philosophy and step into the emotional aftermath of how someone processes this. Put yourself and the reader in that person’s shoes,” Finton said.

Both Finton and Fleming have emphasized the importance of highlighting every victim in a story, providing appropriate and thorough context, and gathering as many perspectives as possible in their reporting. 

“When we say something like, ‘A person was shot, and here’s where it happened,’ you can get a little numb to it and just feel like it happens all the time,” Fleming said. “Highlighting who the victims were, as hard as it may be, can really kind of break through that and show the impact that these things are really having on people.” 

Both reporters agreed that part of fighting against the overwhelmingly negative media narrative surrounding gun violence in Memphis is that not every shooting can or should be covered. Finton explained that there were 398 homicides in the city of Memphis in 2023, and their newsroom cannot cover them all. So there must be certain thresholds or discretion used when deciding which cases to put into the media landscape. 

“It’s a terrible example, but we aren’t going to cover the guy shot in the kneecap,” Fleming said. “We really try to focus on the ones that are going to impact the community and not just ones that aren’t putting public safety at risk.” 

Americans’ experiences with local crime news (Chart: Pew Research Center)

Reality vs. Reporting

Angie Golding, communications specialist at Regional One Health, says over half of her daily calls are from various news sources asking about shooting victims at the hospital. 

“The reality is that [shootings] are not as common as you would think they are by watching the news,” Golding said. “That is something that is reported on a lot, or lots of stories are told about, but they’re not telling the stories about someone that was in a car accident or other sorts of trauma.” 

Indeed, gunshots are only the third leading type of injury in the Elvis Presley Trauma Center within Regional One Health, accounting for only 19 percent of cases brought in.

“I do think that the media contributes a little bit to sensationalizing shootings, but I don’t blame the media for that at all because the media is taught ‘if it bleeds, it leads,’” Golding said. “They are looking for that kind of story, so there’s more interest in it for that reason.” 

This is a common struggle in local Memphis newsrooms. Although the oversaturation of gun violence stories in the media can fatigue the local audience and drive a narrative of crime in the city, it still tends to get the most engagement and interest from viewers. 

“[The news] is very crime-heavy because, for some reason, that does really sell more, and it is why crime coverage is important to news outlets. It drives a lot of traffic,” Finton said. “But, especially in Memphis, there’s a disproportionately high number of crime stories to the crimes that are happening. So there’s this larger narrative all the time and this feeling among residents that crime is constantly going up every year because it feels like every year it is covered more and more.” 

MLK50 is a nontraditional Memphis newsroom focused on accountability and serving the working class people of Memphis — the people that Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. would have been aligned with if he were alive today.

Brittany Brown (Photo: Wiley Brown Studios for MLK50: Justice Through Journalism)

With that in mind, MLK50 public safety reporter Brittany Brown said, “I am not covering a shooting that happened at a gas station because our local news outlets are covering that, and it contributes, to a degree, to this existing narrative of fear in Memphis, where people live in fear of their own communities.”  

Brown believes one of the biggest issues in reporting on gun violence is that each instance is often treated like a one-off, focusing on the individual, which can contribute to a narrative that some communities are more susceptible to engaging in this behavior than others. 

“[MLK50] gets me out of that routine of just going from incident to incident and really being able to connect the dots and see the bigger picture, which I think is what journalism should really be, especially today because we are all flooded with so much information,” Brown said. 

However, Brown acknowledged that not every newsroom and reporter has the ability to flesh out every story with this much thoroughness due to deadlines and requirements for breaking news. 

“The newsroom that I’m in gives me the flexibility to approach reporting with that level of care, which I appreciate. And I think it’s really necessary to get us outside of what has almost become a formulaic approach to coverage of an incident when someone has been killed by the police, no matter the dynamics, because they have become so common in our popular media narrative,” Brown said. “Same with mass shootings, they become almost sensationalized in these very formulaic ways: the shock and the trauma, thoughts and prayers, a big attorney, maybe something incrementally changes, and then it dies down until the next horrific incident happens.” 

At the same time, Brown emphasizes the importance of being present in the community of Memphis, especially in times of tragedy, in order to fully understand the social context and foster trust within the local communities. 

“Building relationships is vital, especially in Memphis because there is a lot of fear, distrust, and standoffishness with the media, and I understand it now because there are a lot of reasons for that,” Brown said. “I was able to be present and use my own common sense as a human being first, not being an objective journalist, because objectivity does not exist. Fairness, truth, and accuracy exist, but this idea that I am supposed to be this unemotional, non-feeling, kind of like ‘God’s eye,’ objective-type of journalist is just not true. We are people. We have brains. We have life experiences, and we have things that brought us to this moment.” 

Brown graduated from the University of Mississippi with a B.A. in journalism in 2019 and worked at Mississippi Today and Mississippi Public Broadcasting before moving to Memphis to work at MLK50. She emphasized the importance of prioritizing mental health in this line of work, where you are often exposed to some of the most horrible parts of our society.

Percentage of U.S. adults who get news about select local topics (Chart: Courtesy Pew Research Center)

Covering Crime

Brown shared that she had to take a step back from working in news by the middle of 2023 following her initial reporting on the death of Tyré Nichols due to police brutality in Memphis. 

“I thought that I was doing a good job of being able to compartmentalize my own identity from the job, and I think those lines got blurred along the way,” Brown said. “A lot of times, as journalists, we’re doing this public-facing work because we care about it. We take that work home with us, and for me, it had kind of become my identity like ‘I’m a journalist,’ and I had to realize I am Brittany first. I am a Black biracial woman living in this country. I had to take a step back and have a come-to-Jesus moment with myself about doing this work.” 

Finton concurred that mental health is key, as crime reporters are so often faced with many cases in rapid succession, each one confronting them with tragedy and its human aftermath. 

“You really have to open yourself up, and that’s why I think it is important to do those stories but to also give yourself some time to acknowledge that you have to take care of yourself first,” Finton said. “Journalists are human beings; we do have feelings, even though we cover a lot of horrible stuff. It’s really important to take care of yourself after those moments. But you kind of have to figure that balance out yourself. No one can tell a reporter when to or not to open themselves up to a source.” 

This idea of trauma-informed journalism is now being addressed at the national level by organizations like the Philadelphia Center for Gun Violence Reporting (PCGVR). The PCGVR trains journalists to advance more ethical, empathetic, and impactful news, which includes promoting evidence-based, solutions-oriented, community-informed, data-informed, and trauma-informed reporting. 

“Once you understand that everybody that you are reporting on has been through extensive trauma, it makes sense to begin from a position of empathy and try to connect with them as human beings rather than just jumping straight to the incident,” PCGVR founder and director Jim MacMillan said. “Start with who they are, how they’re feeling, and what they need.” 

Gun violence news in Memphis (Chart: Grace Landry; Chart template: Flourish Team)

An Empathetic Approach

MacMillan founded PCGVR a little over five years ago. He worked in Philadelphia newsrooms for 17 years, covering 2,000 shootings over that time — about 10 percent of the more than 20,000 Philadelphians involved in gun violence during this period.

“The idea is that accurate reporting informs people to take civic action, whether they vote, run for office, or support a candidate,” MacMillan said. “The action is up to them. We collaborate with journalists, researchers, and the survivor community to advance more empathetic, ethical, and impactful reporting. Impactful reporting is the part that could lead to policy change.” 

While still in its early stages, PCGVR has been successful in completing various research projects, webinars, and a guide to reporting gun violence responsibly, informing the public without sensationalizing or dehumanizing the victims. 

“We see a movement growing,” MacMillan said. “We see interest in the community. We see interest from journalists, and we see examples of new best-practice reporting. I just can’t say that we’ve done the work yet to demonstrate a trend. It’s anecdotal until we do.” 

One example of this movement is the nation’s only newsroom solely dedicated to reporting on gun violence, The Trace. 

“So often, the type of coverage and the type of media that people consume is local TV news, and a lot of that, just because of the nature of TV news, focuses on individual shootings, individual violent crime, and it is kind of a churn of what shootings happened, but there is no discussion of long-term trends, people trying to make a difference, and that kind of stuff,” The Trace reporter Chip Brownlee said. 

The Trace aims to combat this by focusing all of their stories on both gun violence and possible solutions, informing the public and challenging the narrative that this is an insurmountable problem. 

This includes covering not only the actual crime but also things like public safety partnerships and local community organizations doing work to address these issues. By providing this sort of balance in news coverage, people are able to better understand the broader picture and context of gun violence. 

The Trace recently started a Gun Violence Data Hub, which is an effort to collect data and context they can then provide to local newsrooms that might be understaffed, in order to help them have adequate resources to cover these issues. 

“I think all of that is really important because those local outlets, your small-town newspapers, your local TV news, those are the outlets that are most trusted by people,” Brownlee said. “They are the closest to them, and if those places are struggling to cover an issue that has an impact all the way up the chain, that’s really important to address.”

And staffing shortfalls are very real. According to the Pew Research Center, employment in newsrooms fell 26 percent from 2008 to 2021. Even if reporters want to do more holistic and thorough reporting on every case, staffing restraints can often make this a difficult goal. 

“We [The Commercial Appeal] are the oldest paper in Memphis, but we are also a very small newsroom right now,” Finton said. “Currently, our metro news team has two reporters. So we just can’t cover everything.” 

However, with an uptick in resources for reporters that are covering gun violence, Brown is hopeful that current and future reporters can set a new standard for how gun violence should be portrayed in the media, specifically in Memphis. Brown even explained that she keeps a packet from The Trace in her bag at all times, and she often receives emails or check-ins from the PCGVR about stories that are happening. 

“While there are less people doing the work, the people who are currently doing the work are doing it with a really important set of values,” Brown said. “That, I think, will actually kind of set a new pace for how gun violence needs to be told.” 

Grace Landry, from Ocean Springs, Mississippi, is a senior at the University of Mississippi pursuing a dual degree in journalism and political science.

Crime and Public Safety

by Toby Sells

So how do we here at the Memphis Flyer cover crime?

It’s a good question and one to which I should know the answer. I am mostly responsible for our news coverage, but it’s always been collaborative. Years working with my colleagues in the Flyer newsroom have given me a certain set of norms, a loose structure, and a few lines we decided never to cross again. But I wanted a more formal answer to this question, so I asked for help.

A little context here. We are our city’s alternative newsweekly. That means a lot of things. But it certainly means we’re not Memphis’ “paper of record.” That means we’re not the final authority on everything that happens in Memphis. We’re boutique, hyper-local, and specialized — Sugar Ghost, not Baskin-Robbins.

We don’t have the resources nor responsibility to cover every crime, every arrest, and every verdict. We leave all of that in the capable hands of our two daily news outlets and four local television stations.

We do have a responsibility to our readers to cover crime responsibly. That is simply a bottom-line agreement we as a community voice have with folks who trust us to be good stewards of the power of the press.

As an unabashedly progressive newsroom, we leaned into change early. Our former editor Bruce VanWyngarden decided we’d quit running mug shots at a time when those mug shot magazines were all over every gas station in town. We also decided to remove old stories of arrests from our website on request, if the person had been found not guilty. If the person’s name had been cleared by the courts, we wanted to clear it with Google, too. Our current editor Shara Clark has left those guidelines in place, added more, and supports our efforts to change and improve.

We’ve also kept a watchful eye on how the rest of the Memphis media have reported on crime. Back in 1996, our reporters watched local TV news to gauge the prevalence of “bleeds it leads” stuff. We did it again in 2017, when we found that local, evening TV news shows devoted about half of their running time to stories about violence, criminal activity, and disaster. Half.

Historically, our crime reporting has been spotty. If there was a crime story that felt important, unique, or down-right weird (like the trucker who “inadvertently” traded a trailer full of lunch meat to two men for crack cocaine), we’d run it. On the flip side of that, we’d also publish stats from the Memphis-Shelby County Crime Commission. Pure data and correct context still means a lot to us in this post-truth world we live in.

In the wake of the beating death of Tyré Nichols, Chris McCoy gave readers an honest look at the Memphis Police Department (MPD) with two powerful cover stories — “What’s Wrong With the MPD?” and “How Do We Fix the MPD?” Last December, McCoy, Kailynn Johnson, and myself scoured the Department of Justice report on MPD’s excessive force to take you “Inside the MPD.” Many of those details were brutal, gut-wrenching, terrifying, and dark. But our inherent guidelines on covering crime meant that we owed our readers reporting that refused to look away.

So we had a collage of guidelines, best practices, themes, and a general tenor of how we covered crime. But I wanted to make sure our way was, indeed, the correct way. Thanks to the financial support of our company’s leadership, the Flyer’s small newsroom enrolled in the Poynter Institute’s program called “Transforming Local Crime Reporting Into Public Safety Journalism.”

One of the first things we learned was that we should rethink “crime,” as the name of the course implies. “Public safety” is police, courts, jail, and all the rest. But we learned it’s also schools, the environment, healthcare, and anything else that requires our governments and their officials to keep our community safe.

In our courses, we decided that we have basically been on the right track, especially with our MPD stories. Some of that, though, is just from our freedom to cover whatever we want. We’re not trying to scoop the other guys on every crime, arrest, and outrage. When we cover crime, we try to approach it from the side of the community, in order to hold government accountable — not the other way around.

The Poynter folks asked those in the program to come up with a mission statement, a sort of formal agreement with those we serve. Here’s what we’ve come up with so far:

“At the Memphis Flyer, we promise to find and report the crime trends that shape our community on a regular basis. We will present our findings unfiltered and put them into context so you can understand the trends.

“We will attempt to compare Memphis crime trends to other areas. We hope these comparisons will give you a real-world context to see if Memphis public safety agencies are effectively carrying out their duties, or if there are things we can learn from other law enforcement agencies.

“We will bring you independent, expert analysis to help our readers understand the public safety situation in our city and how it impacts their lives.” 

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Desperately Seeking Glo!

So many things these days are giving us whiplash — that “Wait, what just happened?” feeling of business as usual being turned on its head. Such was the feeling, in a positive direction, when the world witnessed the swift, steady ascension of GloRilla in 2022 to ’23. Her first hit single, “F.N.F. (Let’s Go),” brought that “OMG” feeling as we realized a new supernova had blossomed in the Milky Way of rap. Her cocky, tell-it-like-it-is, Memphian delivery felt like a wake-up call. And the Mid-South found a new hero, as did the new Memphis sound, that uniquely spacious orchestral bounce of the city’s beat that has perennially dominated the global hip-hop charts. Since that shot across the bow, GloRilla’s dropped one hit single after another on Yo Gotti’s Collective Music Group (CMG) label, not to mention 2024’s full-length Glorious, which locked in her triumphs of the previous year. Now, on a tour named for that gold album, she’s reaping the rewards, including her triumphant headliner homecoming at FedExForum this Friday, July 25th, the GloRilla & Friends First Annual GLO Bash.

BOOM! And then there was Glo, or so goes the myth. But, having begun rapping at least 10 years ago at the age of 16, GloRilla was on locals’ radar well before “F.N.F.” was even a gleam in her eye. To better understand this phenomenon of the woman born Gloria Hallelujah Woods, the Flyer staff has combed the city and crossed the nation to chase that “OMG” feeling, to better grasp the magic of her persona, the secret ingredients of her flow, and the magnetic draw of her shows. Read on, then, as we follow the road, step by step, station by station, to that golden FedExForum which, come Friday, may very well begin radiate a whole new glow.

What Makes Glo Great?

“The first time I heard about GloRilla was when she was doing local shows in and around Orange Mound,” says IMAKEMADBEATS, founder of the hip-hop collective Unapologetic. “It was her and Slimeroni and the rest of the gang. You heard that there was a mob of young girls rapping and rapping hard. You felt a movement coming for sure.” 

GloRilla’s debut mixtape, 2019’s Most Likely Up Next, is a document of the time the teenage rapper was taking the Mound by storm. She burst out of the underground in 2022 with the Hitkidd-produced “F.N.F.” On the surface, the video follows the familiar formula of hot girls, hot cars, and excess. Only this video is shot on a smartphone, the “hot cars” are Nissans, and the women are not objects — they’re in charge. “Twerking on the cars at the red light, it definitely felt like a heightened viral moment of ‘Wow! Look at this!’” says Jared Boyd, program manager for WYXR. “This is very uniquely Memphis in a way that I hadn’t seen in a long time.”

There are thousands of no-budget hip-hop videos on YouTube, but “F.N.F.” has racked up more than 93 million views since it dropped in April 2022. It was the first inkling of GloRilla’s populist instincts, and what would become her fierce control of her own image. “She is a glowing representative — I guess pun intended — of what happens when you are extremely aware of who you are, and then unapologetic about being that,” says IMAKEMADBEATS. 

After “F.N.F” blew up and she scored a collaboration with her cousin Cardi B for the Anyway, Life’s Great EP, it could have been the end for Glo. “It’s not uncommon in hip-hop for someone to have a really, really huge debut, and for them to get signed and their single to get picked up by a larger organization, and maybe they don’t necessarily get the support to capitalize off of that. It’s not always the artist’s fault,” says Boyd. “[But] almost as soon as it came out of my mouth that I wasn’t sure that Glo would have a follow-up, she had ‘Yeah Glo!’ come out, and I was blown away! It was that moment I realized this is the next big woman rapper.” 

For me, that moment came when I heard her 2023 single with Hitkidd, “Internet Trolls.” It’s a two-minute, 21-second treatise on staying sane in the social media age. I could write a 1,500-word essay on 21st-century information warfare, but it wouldn’t get the point across like, “Watch out for them internet trolls/They be tryna satisfy them internet goals.”

“That’s the thing about Glo, I think, that makes her attractive to listeners and fans,” says IMAKEMADBEATS. “It’s how real she keeps it about her experience and her life in a way that’s immediately digestible. It’s a simplified, direct delivery of an experience that resonates with people because it’s like, ‘Yeah, that’s exactly how I feel!’”

In the image-obsessed world of post-TikTok hip-hop, GloRilla’s secret sauce is that she is a truly great rapper. “That’s one thing that’s not spoken about her a lot,” says Boyd. “She is a skilled rapper, and I would hope that anybody who thinks the opposite would shut the hell up. I grew up rapping, I’ve studied it, and I’ve written about it. She is no slouch. She can put words together in a very tight way, and she is intentional about making sure that the South and Memphis are represented in her dialect. … She has almost single-handedly manufactured this infatuation globally with the way Memphians say things. Like, my cousins in Detroit will call me and say, ‘Hey, can you pronounce this for me? I just want to hear how you would say it.’ And I’m like, ‘Get off the phone, mane!’” 

It’s not just GloRilla’s dialect that invokes the 901. Most of her catalog has the sparse, spooky, synth-riff heavy sound pioneered by the DIY hip-hop of the 1990s. “It’s thoroughly and traditionally Memphis rap to the fullest,” says IMAKEMADBEATS. “You know, a lot of times with female rappers or singers, you don’t see young men riding around playing their music, right? I don’t think I ever pulled up to a car and some guy was playing Nicki Minaj. But Glo is different because of how Memphis she is. That’s something that spans across gender.” 

Unlike many of her peers, GloRilla is an electric live performer. Memphis got to see that firsthand when she headlined the Beale Street Music Festival in 2023. Flanked by her squad of dancers and a giant purple gorilla, Glo electrified tens of thousands of Memphians who crowded into Tom Lee Park. Earlier this year, she repeated the feat on one of the biggest stages in the world at the Coachella Valley Music & Arts Festival. “She’s always had a certain aggression and energy,” says IMAKEMADBEATS. “If you go back and watch videos of the early days, she’s always been like that. Being famous didn’t make her like that. That made her famous.” 

Boyd agrees that we’re looking at a generational talent. “I think the sky’s the limit for GloRilla.” — Chris McCoy


GloRilla in the “TGIF” video (Photo (top): Interscope); GloRilla hits the gym with Moneybagg Yo. (Photo (bottom): Courtesy Interscope)

Rite of Passage

It was the summer of 2024, and “Wanna Be” by GloRilla and Megan Thee Stallion had quickly shaped up to be the song of the season. The sample of Soulja Boy’s “Pretty Boy Swag” juxtaposed with Glo’s cadence and the promise of “Real Hot Girl Sh*t” created a bop that’d make its way to my end-of-the-year replay playlist.

It became that year’s backing track for epic summer photo dumps and story posts — but it also showed me that Glo was always on time. In 2022, she dropped the seminal single “F.N.F.” And as my friends and I hit the town that season, hearing “Hitkidd, what it do mane?” was the precursor to memories we still relish. Add in the release that year of “Tomorrow” and “Tomorrow 2” — with verses as prophetic as “Can get my feelings hurt today/I won’t give a fuck tomorrow” — her songs became anthems filled with empowering mantras, marked by her signature gangsta prowess.

Back to 2024, the release of “Wanna Be” ensured that the event of the summer was going to be everything my friends and I had hoped for. The three of us snagged tickets for the Houston show on Megan Thee Stallion’s Hot Girl Summer Tour, and while the sweltering heat could’ve taken even the fiercest hotties out, we sat ready in floor seats for the epic core memories to come. 

Seeing Glo in person is special. I’d even say it’s a rite of passage for any pop-culture connoisseur. She transcends the moniker of a “rap artist” — her interviews and snappy quips give life to the charm that reverberates in her flow.

Take one of her most recent viral videos of her in her bonnet in the studio chanting, “Wobbilly wiggily, huah!” into the microphone. She has the relatability and candidness that even the most sought-after publicist can’t manufacture for artists. And she can’t help but make you smile during a late-night scroll on TikTok.

Whether it’s her authentic reaction to meeting Beyoncé or breaking the fourth wall and interacting with fans on Facebook, she so naturally reminds us that she’s human — a girl from Memphis, to be exact. Days before she’s set to perform at her inaugural Glo Bash, she takes to Facebook — a more intimate social platform — asking her fans if she should tease us with a snippet before the show. Her chronically online presence is refreshing. Glo could easily just grace us with the occasional surprise drop, as many of her colleagues do, but something about asking her friends and followers for advice on the web shows a more open and intimate side that we don’t often see of superstars.

It was, perhaps, inevitable that the world would be captivated by her Southern charm — amplified by the Memphis accent (see “Accent” by Megan Thee Stallion and GloRilla). She’s aware that she’s loved far and wide, and every appearance, interaction, and interview seem to be a love letter to her fans — a mark of her ingenuity and a promise of her sincerity.

Her approachability makes seeing her in concert that much more exciting. It’s like seeing a friend work hard and enjoy the fruits of their labor, rather than just another celebrity. And that feeling, for me, is furthered by a shared identity. Not only is Glo a fellow Leo, but she’s a Black woman, which makes rooting for her even more sentimental.

The music industry has always been an inequitable place for women, and being a Black female artist in the hip-hop space is even more complicated. Society is often stricter when evaluating the success of women artists based on likability and how they measure up to male artists on the charts.

Seeing Glo come alive to the lyrics of “Yeah Glo!” with other Black girls yelling at the top of our lungs was exhilarating. We were cheering her on, celebrating her success as an artist who’d fulfilled a dream she was destined to claim. — Kailynn Johnson

Glo donates to Westside Middle School. (Photo: Yasa Kaumba)

Queen of Memphis

While GloRilla has been omnipresent on the charts, and a regular on our favorite playlists, there have not been many Glo sightings in her hometown of late. Her past three years having been one of the most prolific stretches of hitmaking that any artist could boast, this is a woman on the move, busy making waves. Yet before diving back into the studio, she can’t resist taking a minute to speak with the Flyer about this most triumphant of homecomings for Glo Bash. 

“I’m not in Memphis that much,” she admits right off the bat. “I record a lot in Atlanta and L.A.” And yet it’s clear from her music that Glo carries her hometown in her heart wherever she goes. It’s all spelled out in one of the standout tracks on Glorious, “Queen of Memphis,” featuring Fridayy, where she absolutely owns her roots: “I’m from where you cross that line you can’t go back/Money ain’t change shit, I’m the same bitch from Fraysеr/Right up out the trenches, I’m the same bitch who made it/Callin’ me you twin, but you the same bitch who hated.”

But even as she owns her roots, she also owns her fame: “Lately I been winning, took some Ls but it ain’t faze me/Ran up them millions and the glow-up lookin’ crazy/Sellin’ out arenas, every city do it daily/KD, I’m just sayin’ how they traded/Hate me ’cause I’m on top like some gravy/Track meet, I been runnin’ up that paper/Big Glo, Queen of Memphis, no debatin’.”

Her success has meant an escape from those roots, even if her brand includes being Memphis AF. “The energy of Memphis lives in her,” wrote Brooklyn White in Essence magazine in 2022. Glo herself told White, “I still got the crunk sound. I got the sound Memphis got. When you hear me rap, you hear Memphis.” Yet her hometown is also something to transcend. As White wrote, “Once the ‘F.N.F.’ video was released, the world wanted a piece of Big Glo. ‘The next day everybody was calling and talking about, “Come to Miami. Come here.” All the labels were calling me,’ she says, her cadence speeding up. The success of the song changed her life. ‘I don’t never be [in] Memphis no more. And I ain’t broke no more.’”

Yet look no further than her latest single and music video to see a very Memphis Glo in full flower. If the upcoming Glo Bash is one way of reaping the rewards of what she’s built, so too is using her freedom to push her art, and the genre of hip-hop, beyond its status quo boundaries. And that’s what she does with “Rain Down on Me,” an intriguing mix of the rapper’s storytelling genius and contemporary gospel, featuring none other than Kirk Franklin and Maverick City Music. In this version of Glo, haters are just “blessings-blockers,” and faith offers a way to make it in the world: “I know I’m a sinner, Lord, and I know I might sin again,” she intones. “So thank You for not givin’ up and still givin’ me the strength to win/Protect me from the evil that I can’t see with my eyes/And if it’s any blessing-blockers ’round me, help me cut them ties/In Jesus’ name …”

The church, it turns out, has always been tremendously important to GloRilla. “I was in church most of my life,” she tells the Flyer. “My mama, she’s a Christian, and my dad’s a Christian. So I grew up in church, and it’s played a big part in all my life.” When asked what church in particular she attended, she says, “Oh, I grew up going to a few churches. I don’t want to single any out, but one of them was Promise Land [Church of God in Christ] in Orange Mound.” 

The song, she says, reflects all of her church experiences, “everything as a whole, like my whole life, being in church, and even to now.” And, she notes, “When I’m in Memphis, I’ve stopped there a couple times, but not as often as I should. I’m trying to make it a habit. I was just talking about this the other day …”

She’s also stayed connected to Memphis in other ways, first donating $20,000 to her early alma mater, Westside Middle School, then gifting another $25,000 to Melrose High School, which she attended in her late teens. Glo has also expressed her social engagement on the national stage, formally endorsing Kamala Harris for president last year and meeting with President Biden. 

Now, she’s on the threshold of her triumphant, star-studded homecoming, which will, she says, “have a lot of superstar guest artists popping out. A lot of people Memphis ain’t seen yet. So I think they’re gonna love it, including my performance. I’m in rehearsals now for it, and it’s gonna be something big for Memphis.” Moreover, as Glo Bash approaches, she’s acutely aware of her position as a role model and inspiration to millions of young women, offering this final message to her sisters far and wide:

“To my ladies out there, especially my Memphis people: It’s hard, where we come from. And all across the world where it’s hard, just get through it. Pray, stand on what you believe in, and keep pushing — and never give up.” — Alex Greene 

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Day Trippin’

We all need a vacation, some day or another. Ideally, a long vacation, far, far away. But listen, we know how life is: It’s hard to get away. And that’s where a day trip can come in handy. 

An hour or two in the car in any direction and, bam, you’re in a new town, a new place to explore. Luckily, this region has something for everyone, from the nature-lovers to the creature-comfort-seekers. Wanna shop till you drop? Wanna hike? Eat? Meet Kermit the Frog? It’s all a short trip away. 

We’ve come up with a few of our favorite spots to get away from and back to the 901 all in a day. Our advice: It doesn’t mater if you have an agenda or not; just get outta here!  

Photo: Alex Greene

Mississippi County, Arkansas

If you want to get out of the city for a spell, look no further than this nearby pocket of the Natural State. Though the once-inundated land near the Big Muddy was at one point called the “sunken lands,” recognized as one of America’s swampiest regions as early as 1850, don’t let that dissuade you. For one thing, the undesirability of the terrain was one reason that a certain Ray and Carrie Cash wound up moving to Mississippi County back in 1935. They were selected as participants in the Works Progress Administration’s Dyess Colony, a town built from scratch, which incentivized farm families to clear trees from swampland so they could settle there and farm cotton. Because the Cashes’ son J.R. later went by the name Johnny, his music loved around the world, their house in Dyess is preserved to this day as the Johnny Cash Boyhood Home. And what a tour it is. 

It’s actually two tours, starting with the gem of a museum in Dyess proper, where priceless artifacts like Johnny’s schoolboy drawings, report cards, and graduation photos are displayed with care. There are also some of his stage threads on display, if you like things a little more showbizzy. 

Johnny Cash Boyhood Home has been reconstructed with era-appropriate decor in Dyess, Arkansas. (Photos: Alex Greene)

But then there’s the house he grew up in, a few miles outside of town, and the simple country life of the Cash family, reconstructed here with era-appropriate decor, is like a portal into the country singer’s heart and soul. Not to be missed.

If all that has you fatigued, there are refreshments aplenty in nearby Wilson. Founded as a company town by logging and cotton magnate Robert Wilson in 1886, it’s now a prime example of how to take planned development to the next level. Gaylon Lawrence Sr. purchased the surrounding farmland and much of the commercial property here 14 years ago, and leaned into the hospitality sector. That meant revamping the long-standing Wilson Café, but also establishing The Grange at Wilson Gardens, a spacious kitchen, lunch venue, and gift shop in a remodeled warehouse. The deli-style food is fresh and creative. 

Still hankering for more history? It’s a piece of cake to stroll over to the Hampson Archeological Museum, also in Wilson, where artifacts from the nearby Nodena archaeological site, first excavated by James K. Hampson a century ago, are lovingly displayed alongside evocative dioramas of Native American life in the area. As you’ll see, it all looks pretty good. Will you even want to return to Memphis after you’re done? — Alex Greene 

Holly Springs, Mississippi 

A trip to Holly Springs, which takes a little over an hour from Downtown Memphis, is a way to combine learning opportunities, unusual places to visit, and restaurants to satisfy your appetite.

First, the food. I have my favorite go-to spots. I recently re-discovered Southern Eatery on the town square. It’s all-you-can eat Southern fare, including fried and baked chicken, meatloaf, and peach or apple cobbler.

Then there’s Casa Fiesta Mexican Grill, the newest Mexican restaurant in town. Its guacamole is the best I’ve ever eaten.

There are plenty more in-town places to check out, including Annie’s Home Cooking. You also can venture about 10 minutes back toward Memphis to find more good eating in Red Banks, Mississippi. Check out Clancy’s Cafe for tangy barbecue, catfish, and more or Marshall Steakhouse for a great steak or (on Mondays and Tuesdays) Italian food. I’m a fan of the hamburgers at Joe Joe’s Travel Center.

I love the Holly Springs town square, which, like most small towns, has the court house situated in the middle with a square featuring some interesting spots to pop into.

Booker Hardware (Photos: Michael Donahue)

Booker Hardware is that hardware store you see in the old movies. You’re probably going to see people in overalls talking over some gadget or other with the guys at the counter. I’ve bought everything from stainless steel garbage cans to a funnel for my humming bird feeder.

I’ve run across great antique finds at Retro Rooster, which sells clothing as well as home decor items.

Museum lovers can visit the Marshall County Historical Museum, which is chock-full of memorabilia. It reminds me of the old Pink Palace back in the ’50s and ’60s. All types of things to look at. And you’ll learn a lot at the interesting Ida B. Wells-Barnett Museum and Cultural Center of African-American History.

Drive around town and view the antebellum homes, including the magnificent Montrose, a circa 1858 Greek Revival home. Many homes will be open for viewing December 1st and 2nd at the annual Christmas Tour of Homes. 

Don’t forget the scenic Hillcrest Cemetery near the town square. I like to drive through to see the antique wrought iron used as fencing around the various grave sites.

And after you do all this sightseeing, it will be time to go eat again.  — Michael Donahue

Greenville, Mississippi

“I took the Blues Highway to the Tamale Trail, which led to the birthplace of Kermit the Frog.”

Earn the right to say this amazing phrase at your next Midtown house party with a fun trip down to Greenville, Mississippi. The town of about 27,000 is pure Delta — blues, cotton, towboats, levee walls, hunting and fishing, casinos, and those famous tamales.

Greenville’s tourism website lists 10 places to get tamales in the town and Washington County. But how did the tamale end up in the Mississippi Delta?

“There are as many answers to that question as there are tamale recipes,” according to the Southern Foodways Alliance.

Pork and masa are the traditional components of Delta tamales, but the Alliance says you’ll also see them filled with beef or turkey and wrapped in corn meal. Either way, those little hot tamales are wrapped in corn shucks to cook.

“Looks like hell,” say the Greenville tourism folks. “Tastes like heaven. Just don’t eat the shucks.”

Doe’s Eat Place may be the most famous joint on the Greenville Tamale Trail. The regional chain now spans from Biloxi to Paducah. But the OG is in Greenville.

Blues lovers will marvel at the Highway 61 Blues Museum in nearby Leland, also home to June’s annual Highway 61 Blues Festival.

Meet Kermit the Frog and check out Lake Ferguson while in Greenville. (Photos: Greenville Washington County Convention and Visitors Bureau)

While you’re in Leland, stop in to visit another musical Mississippian — Kermit the Frog — at the Greenville Chamber of Commerce office. Jim Henson was born near Leland, and an exhibit about his life has tons of Muppets memorabilia and a gift shop, too. 

Back in Greenville, soak up some of that pure Delta with an easy 1.7-mile walk on the levee with views of Lake Ferguson (where you might spy a towboat or two).

Alright, alright. I’ve done the history thing and the blues thing and family thing and eaten tamales. I want to cut loose. Two casinos — Harlow’s Casino Resort and Tropicana Casino — offer the best games, dining, bars, and more. — Toby Sells

Chewalla Lake

About an hour southeast of Memphis via a picturesque drive through Mississippi hill country lies Chewalla Lake. It’s a 260-acre reservoir in the Holly Springs National Forest, built in 1966 by damming Chewalla Creek. I hear you skeptics out there asking, “Why should I drive an hour to some muddy-ass lake in Mississippi?” Here’s why: First, and most important, it’s not muddy-ass. Chewalla is spring-fed, meaning its water clarity is unrivaled — and unusual — in these parts. And second, it’s cold, meaning you get refreshed when you plunge into the water, no small thing on a blazing summer afternoon in the Mid-South.

Chewalla Lake (Photo: Holly Springs National Forest)

Don’t believe me? Wade into the lake from the sandy swim beach area, and you’ll quickly discover Chewalla’s secret: brisk, chilly water gushing into the lake from below your feet. Once you step into one of the springs, you’ll want to stay near it for a bit. It’s refreshing and unlike any body of water near Memphis.

And there are no obnoxious motorboats or skiers. Chewalla is a no-wake lake, so it’s perfect for kayaking and canoeing — and fishing, which is excellent, with bass, catfish, sunfish, bluegill, and crappie. (Anglers must have a Mississippi fishing license.) And if you’re a hiker, Chewalla features a four-mile trail that encircles the lake and accesses an ancient Indian mound.

If you’re just staying during the day, the swimming beach, fishing pier, grills, playground, and pavilion make it a good family option. If you’re looking to stay overnight, there are more than 40 campsites and RV sites. The campground is open from April to November and offers hot showers and flush toilets. Campsites with electricity and water are limited, however. It’s best to check the lake’s website for availability.

And once you’ve had your fill of nature, the good news is that you’re only a short jaunt away from historic Holly Springs, with its antebellum mansions, bed and breakfasts, hotels, and Southern dining options. — Bruce VanWyngarden 

Southaven, Mississippi

If you’re looking for a fun day trip with friends or family, look no further than spending your day in Southaven, Mississippi. The Memphis suburb has activities from shopping to indoor and outdoor recreation to restaurants and entertainment centers. 

Jerry Lee Lewis memorial statue at Silo Square in Southaven, Mississippi (Photo: Silo Square | Facebook)

Southaven’s open outdoor shopping malls are just one attraction. The Tanger Outlets outdoor mall is a popular shopping center located on Airways Boulevard. The outlet has name brand stores such as Nike, H&M, Coach, Michael Kors, Banana Republic, Tommy Hilfiger, and many more. (Join the TangerClub for deals and other services.) The Southaven Towne Center, located on Towne Center Loop, is another fun outlet shopping center. Some shops at the Towne Center include Dillard’s, Bath & Body Works, Journeys, JCPenney, Ulta Beauty, and Torrid. For locally owned boutiques and gift shops worth perusing, head to Silo Square, where you’ll also spot the Jerry Lee Lewis memorial statue. 

For a family day, there are parks, games, concerts, and shows. Let’s Paint is a place to have fun with your artistic creativity; escape rooms, Strike Zone Bowling Lanes, Southaven Golf Center, and Urban Air Trampoline and Adventure Park are perfect recreational places. For concerts and shows, there’s the BankPlus Amphitheater at Snowden Grove and the Landers Center. 

After a fun day spent doing any activity, there’s room for a good bite to eat. Southaven has a variety of restaurant options for anything that you have an appetite for — like pizza from Lost Pizza Co., sushi and hibachi from Akita Sushi & Hibachi Steakhouse, barbecue from One & Only BBQ, or Mexican from Tekila Modern Mexican. — Morgan Thomas

Dyersburg, Tennessee, & Steele, Missouri

I set out from Memphis in a direction I don’t go very often: north. Usually, when I’m driving the storied Highway 51, it’s just to go hiking in the Meeman-Shelby Forest State Park. But today, I kept going through Millingon, Atoka, and Covington. 51 winds through some beautiful country as it crosses the Hatchie River. At Henning, I pass signs for the Alex Haley House Museum, where the author of Roots is buried next to his childhood home. The rolling hills north of Ripley are covered in verdant farmland which gleams green this hot, sunny summer day. Just north of Halls is Arnold Field where the Veterans’ Museum features static displays of fifteen planes from the World War II era.  

I wind through Dyersburg, a place where I have never been before. It’s a very tidy Southern small town, like the one I grew up in, with an interesting mix of residential architecture. But I’m not here for the housing. I’m here for ’cue. 

Roy Boy’s Barbecue loaded baked potato (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Roy Boy’s Barbecue is located on the northwest side of town, where Highway 51 is called St. John Avenue. It’s a modest building situated next to a gas station and across the street from a Grecian Steakhouse which looks massive in comparison. The heavenly smell of slow-roasted pig seeps into the car before I can even turn off the ignition. Inside, I say what I usually say in these situations: “Gimme what’s good!” 

I end up with the Loaded Baked Potato, and, man, is it loaded! The massive spud takes up an entire Styrofoam to-go container, stuffed with some heavenly pulled pork, bacon bits, chives, nacho cheese (the proprietor’s recommendation), and jalapeños. This dish could have fed a family of four. I do my best, but I’m but one person! 

Back on the road with a full belly and the smell from the leftovers permeating the car, I hop on 155 and draft behind a big truck until I cross the Mississippi River, which is much narrower and deeper here than at our Fourth Bluff. On I-55, I head south to my second destination of the day. 

High Profile Cannabis Shop in Steele, Missouri, is part of a chain with locations in Michigan, Illinois, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Connecticut, and now Missouri, which recently loosened their cannabis laws to include recreational sales. High Profile hasn’t been open long —it’s still got that new store smell. In this case, the smell is from the dozens of glass jars filled with carefully trimmed flowers. There’s a steady stream of customers of all descriptions, from farmhands with muddy boots to city slickers like me. I use the store’s iPad interface to order a pack of blueberry gummies from Camino, a brand I discovered in Los Angeles. The gummies promise “tranquility,” which is something I could use a lot more of these days. 

The drive back to Memphis is a straight shot through Arkansas rice fields, which are in the midst of their annual flood. Back at home, I chew a gummy, and the rest of my evening is tranquil as advertised. — Flyer staff  

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Caught in the Crossfire

This story was originally published by MLK50: Justice Through Journalism. Subscribe to their newsletter here.

April was one of the worst months for gun violence against Memphis children. Fourteen children were shot at parks, festivals, memorials, and in front of schools; seven died from their wounds. The last time that many children were killed by guns in a single month — November 2023 — was at the tail end of the deadliest year on record for Memphis children, according to the Memphis Police Department.

The number of Memphis children shot has increased sharply over the past decade, per Regional One Health and Le Bonheur Children’s Hospital data. In 2009, doctors at Le Bonheur treated 23 children for gunshot wounds. In 2012, they treated 40 children. In 2017, they treated 88. And in 2023, they treated 180. 

Since the pandemic, well over 200 children have been shot in Memphis each year, according to Regional One and Le Bonheur. In 2023, that number was closer to 300. While gun violence decreased slightly over the past year, it remains well above pre-Covid levels. 

Most of these children were not engaged in illegal activity, said Dr. Regan Williams, director of trauma services at Le Bonheur Children’s Hospital. Instead, they were often bystanders caught in shootings that had little to do with them, but happened to take place where they study, play, and sleep. 

Williams thinks she knows what’s responsible for this increase: policy decisions, particularly the state’s “guns in trunks” law. 

Memphis has long been a “perfect storm” for gun violence for three reasons, Williams said: “We don’t have common-sense gun legislation. We have a high rate of poverty, and there are a lot of guns out there.” 

But “guns in trunks,” which allows Tennesseans to store guns in their cars, made things even worse, she said. FBI data shows that in the years after its passage in 2013, the number of guns stolen from cars in Shelby County rose rapidly. So, too, did the number of children Williams and other Le Bonheur doctors treated for gunshot wounds. 

“A couple years after the law passed, there was an increase in the number of guns,” Williams said. “And then with the increase in guns came the increase in children being shot.”

Gunshot wounds surpassed car accidents to become the leading cause of death for Tennessee children in 2022. Firearms have remained the top killer of the state’s children ever since. 

Dr. Regan Williams stands for a portrait outside Le Bonheur Children’s Hospital.  (Photo: Andrea Morales | MLK50)

An increase in community violence

Le Bonheur has the only trauma center for children in Memphis. As such, Williams and her team treat almost every Memphian under the age of 16 with life-threatening injuries. 

In the mid-2010s, they noticed something unsettling: The number of children they treated for gunshot wounds was rising. In the past, Le Bonheur doctors saw three or four children with gunshot wounds each month. Now, they might see that many in a week. 

Williams has been tracking the reasons why her young patients were shot. She hopes the data will point to potential solutions to gun violence in Memphis. 

“I ask what the story is for every child, so I can group things in my head,” Williams said. “I try to figure out how we educate and prevent these things from happening.” 

In general, Williams thinks more children have been shot because of an increase in community violence in pockets of the city. Her patients come from all parts of Memphis, but some neighborhoods — Frayser, South Memphis, and Orange Mound among them — are overrepresented. 

Le Bonheur records whether children were shot accidentally or intentionally. Accidental injuries usually come from young children shooting themselves or each other, and are typically related to gun storage, Williams said. “It’s generally a kid who’s found the gun under the bed or in a cabinet, it goes off, and someone around them gets shot.” 

Children shot intentionally, by contrast, are usually injured because they live in a neighborhood with high levels of violence. “Eighty percent of the intentional injuries are drive-by shootings,” Williams said. “The victim was not really the intended target of the shooting. They just happened to be walking down the street, or they’re in their home, or they’re in a car that was shot up.” 

Last year, over 70 percent of Le Bonheur’s patients were shot intentionally. When they started collecting this data in 2017, 50 percent of their patients were shot intentionally. 

“Our rise in gun violence since the pandemic is related to intentional shootings,” Williams said. “These shootings are generally related to community violence.” 

In other words, in recent years, more Memphis children have been shot because the neighborhoods they live in have become more dangerous.

The number of children experiencing firearm injuries grew steadily after “guns in trunks” legislation in 2013. (Chart: Dr. Regan Williams)

“Guns in trunks”

Why did levels of community violence rise? 

Williams’ data shows that the number of children shot initially spiked in 2017, just a few years after an amended version of guns in trunks was signed into law. 

“A lot of guns started getting stolen out of cars,” Williams said. “And so I think that increased the number of guns that we had on the street.” 

City of Memphis data shows that gun-related violent incidents increased in the late 2010s. This increase in gun violence made Memphis neighborhoods less safe and meant that more children were caught in the crossfire. 

Stolen guns have an outsized impact on gun violence because they are more likely to be used to hurt people than other firearms, said Tamika Williams, deputy director for the city’s Office of Neighborhood Safety & Engagement. “Most likely, those guns are sold or they’re used in crimes,” Tamika Williams said. 

Research shows that most acts of gun violence are committed with a stolen gun. According to FBI data, in Tennessee, a majority of guns are stolen from vehicles. In 2021, the Memphis Police Department stated that 40 percent of firearm crimes in the city involve a gun stolen from a car. 

The number of firearms stolen from Memphis vehicles skyrocketed in the mid-2010s, according to a review of FBI data generated by gun safety advocacy organization Everytown.

Cities across Tennessee saw an increase in gun thefts after the passage of guns in trunks, the report showed. States without a similar law did not see such an increase. 

Of all the cities in Everytown’s analysis, Memphis had the highest rate of guns stolen from vehicles. 

Young people — particularly teens and young adults — are disproportionately involved in car break-ins in Memphis, Tamika Williams said. Still, adults, not children, commit the vast majority of violent gun crimes in the city, she added. 

Gun violence with young perpetrators tends to be well-publicized, and as a result, there’s a widespread perception that teens are responsible for most of Memphis’ violent crime, Tamika Williams said. In reality, less than 10 percent of violent crimes in the city are committed by children. 

Regan Williams echoed Tamika Williams’ sentiment. 

“People commonly assume that children that are shot were doing something wrong,” said Regan Williams. “And actually, that’s not true. They are innocent bystanders in a community that isn’t safe for them, and I think that it’s our job as adults to help keep children safe.”

FBI data shows the increase of gun thefts from vehicles in Memphis. (Chart: Everytown Research)

“A deregulatory slide”

It’s difficult to establish a link between a specific piece of legislation and gun violence, said Olivia Li, a policy expert at Everytown. Still, “there are things we know for sure,” she said. “The first is that in aggregate, the more gun safety restrictions the state has, the safer their residents are, and the less gun crime they see.”

Tennessee has been on a “deregulatory slide” on gun safety for the better part of the last decade, Li added — even as the number of Tennessee children shot by guns has increased. 

In 2021, the state eliminated permits to carry concealed weapons in public, a policy “we know is dangerous” because of its impact in other states, Li said. Missouri, which eliminated permits for concealed carry several years before Tennessee, saw gun deaths rise in the years after the law’s passage. 

Tennessee legislators have passed a handful of narrowly focused gun control laws, such as a recent ban on Glock switches, which can make semi-automatic firearms automatic. They have also banned people with domestic violence convictions from possessing firearms. 

Still, the legislature has generally shied away from gun safety legislation. It repeatedly failed to pass a “red flag” law, which allows law enforcement to take firearms from those deemed a threat to themselves or others. During the 2025 legislative session, lawmakers declined to pass MaKayla’s Law, which would have penalized adults whose improperly stored firearms fall into the hands of children, and another bill that would have penalized those who improperly store guns in their cars. 

Instead, the legislature has expanded gun access in the state. In its summary of Tennessee’s gun laws, Everytown wrote that Tennessee’s laws allow “nearly anyone in the state to carry loaded firearms in public without a background check, permit, or safety training.”

This session, lawmakers shielded gun manufacturers from lawsuits, lowered the age at which one can attain a handgun permit and cut funding to several organizations that fight gun violence in Memphis. 

State Senator London Lamar fears that these policy changes will make gun violence in Memphis even worse. 

“What I saw this legislative session was Republicans complaining about the rise in gun violence in our cities across the state, but passing legislation that increases the access to guns,” Lamar said in an interview. 

“I don’t actually think [state Republicans] care about solving gun violence,” Lamar said. “Gunshots are the leading cause of death for Tennessee children, but they fail to protect children in this state based on the policies they have actually championed and passed.” 

Kate Robinson stands for a portrait at Crosstown Concourse. (Photo: Andrea Morales | MLK50)

“It’s become normal”

Kate Robinson, a junior at Crosstown High School, grew up considering what she’d do if she were caught in a shooting. It’s an idea she talks about with an air of detachment. “I’ve accepted it,” she said. “It’s become normal.” When she hears that another young person in Memphis has been killed by someone with a gun, she no longer feels surprised, just resigned. 

Gun violence remains in the back of her mind, even when she’s not actively thinking about it. Recently, she overheard a classmate scream from across the hall; she instinctively wondered if there might be a gun. In reality, that classmate was just rehearsing a play. 

In the wake of The Covenant School shooting, Robinson joined a school walkout organized by Students Demand Action, the youth advocacy wing of Everytown. Last year, she officially joined the group as a student organizer, pushing for changes to Tennessee’s laws around firearms. 

She and her peers advocate for “gun safety,” not “gun control,” she said — “We’re not looking to take away guns. We’re not looking to control or restrict anyone’s rights. We’re just asking people to store their guns safely.” 

Robinson remains hopeful that state lawmakers will take action on gun safety. “The majority of Memphians agree with us,” she said. She suspects that a majority of Tennesseans might agree with her, too. Still, she knows that the state’s Republican supermajority is unlikely to pass the policies she’d like to see enacted anytime soon. 

Robinson will continue pressing for change as long as she can — at least until she graduates from high school. She’s already decided that when she gets old enough, she’s going to leave the state entirely. “I want to go to the North,” she said. In Tennessee, “my safety isn’t prioritized.” 

Rebecca Cadenhead is the youth life and justice reporter for MLK50: Justice Through Journalism. She is also a corps member with Report for America, a national service program that places journalists in local newsrooms. Email her at rebecca.cadenhead@mlk50.com.

This story is brought to you by MLK50: Justice Through Journalism, a nonprofit newsroom focused on poverty, power, and policy in Memphis. 

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Positively ‘UnAmerikan’

This Fourth of July hits differently. Maybe it’s the ongoing warrantless abductions of minorities by unidentified agents of the state, purportedly officers from Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE), but who knows? On the surface, they’re sadistic acts of human trafficking, yet they’re draped in the American flag. So are the massive unlawful cuts to academic research, including the medical sciences, the current threats to Medicaid, and even the assassination of elected representatives by a MAGA zealot: All bedecked in the ol’ red, white, and blue. 

But not everyone’s buying it. And many of us with a little punk deep down inside, or just a penchant for critical thinking, are speaking out — on the microphone. So on this Independence Day, the Memphis Flyer celebrates a dozen songs broadcasting from the heart of the rebel alliance, right here in the Bluff City, by those of us who “do not go gentle into that good night” of sheer kleptocracy, but are instead raging against the dying of democracy. 

FAKE (Photo: courtesy Tim Prudhomme)

“UnAmerikan” — FAKE

In keeping with the minimalist songwriting style he perfected in the band Fuck, Tim Prudhomme hits the nail on the head with brevity and wit in this unreleased song from his latest group. FAKE is a very real quartet, and this song has been a popular favorite in their live sets. As Prudhomme notes, the devil’s in the details. “I played it for a friend the other day and she mistakenly thought I was singing ‘UnAmerican,’” he explains. But no, this is aimed squarely at a particular slice of our society, signified with a “k,” that’s obsessed with alpha male fantasies of power and performative patriarchy. Bro culture? Prudhomme ain’t having it: “I don’t like sports bars/I don’t like endless war,” he sings. And, happily, he offers an alternative. “I am a socialist/I am limp of wrist.” He’s hit upon the secret to being 100 percent Proud Boy-free. And so can you.

Mighty Souls Brass Band at one of the regular Monday protests against the Trump agenda (Photo: Anne J. Froning)

“People Over Profits” — Mighty Souls Brass Band

The No Kings demonstration on June 14th was full of progressive patriots waving the stars and stripes, even as they rejected the punitive patriotism of the most Trump-loving cultists. Instead, the diverse, decent, compassionate America championed by the marchers was a country fired by joy and community. And that’s where the Mighty Souls Brass Band came in, as the rattling rhythm of a snare drum and the fat bottom of group founder Sean Murphy’s sousaphone kicked in and sent a jolt of electricity through the crowd, reportedly 4,000-strong. That was in part due to the power of the street parade tradition. New Orleans-style brass bands have always involved the joy of movement, the power of the groove to bring us together. And that was on full display for the No Kings event, especially in a tune Murphy recorded with Paul Taylor, written “right around the first time that Trump was elected,” Murphy says, simply titled “People Over Profits.” Even a slower number, “St. James Infirmary Blues,” had a visceral impact derived from its deep history, evoking both the topic of healthcare, including the inequities of archaic medical systems that we thought we’d moved beyond, as well as the historical roots of the protest. 

Yet one piece, played in the finest brass band street parade style, was even more on point. “Another song that is really important to me on a bunch of different levels, and that we always try to play at all the protests, is ‘This Land Is Your Land,’” Murphy says. “It’s such an amazing song. It’s sort of an alternative national anthem. And you know, it does help that Woody Guthrie could not stand the current president’s family.”

As Murphy points out, his group is especially well-suited to mass gatherings. “A brass band in particular is a great ensemble for protesting. We’re mobile, obviously, and we don’t require any sort of electrification. And, you know, we are loud! At one of the Monday protests that we did, we had a Trump supporter show up who tried opening the doors to their car and pumping out whatever music they were playing. We didn’t even know they were there until we took a break because they could not be heard over our playing! It was like the viral video from the No Kings march in Atlanta, where a brass band drowned out the Proud Boys.”

Haley Ivey burns Old Glory in 2023. (Photo: Michael Pertl)

“Flight of the Fascist” — Little Baby Tendencies

Of course, as all punks know, there’s more than one way to drown out the fascists. Haley Ivey, the singer-songwriter behind the band Little Baby Tendencies, is a flutist by training but makes up for that instrument’s delicacy when she straps on an electric guitar. Lately, she’s been singing the lead tune from the band’s Inauguration Day release, Burn Down the State, where she screams at breakneck pace, “Let’s show up with a torch and burn down all their mansions/Rising up to their height and taking charge of all our freedoms … We’ll find out how fast it burns, you fascist piece of shit!” It pairs well with Ivey’s more performative side, which led her in 2023 to ’24 to stage flag burnings in honor of Independence Day. 

Not one to mince words, Ivey’s up front about the song’s practical value for rabble-rousing, which gives her mixed feelings. “It’s a little too all-encompassing and a little too shallow,” she says. “I feel like other songs on the album discuss very specific facets of what’s going on, you know, like the complicity of all of us human beings. ‘Sun Song’ on there, I really like because I am, honestly, at the end of the day, very, very passionate about the climate crisis, which I feel like is probably our number one most like the biggest peril that we face.” 

“Knighted (Not Deputized)” — Red Squad

While we’re on the subject of heavy guitars recruited to the antifa cause, we can’t sleep on one of the city’s most outspokenly political bands, Red Squad. Their latest, released just before the election last year, brings the riffs and the power chord crunch to spin a somewhat tongue-in-cheek fantasy about tracking down fascists to deliver death metal justice. While presumably not to be taken literally, the scenario is one all lovers of democracy can embrace: “1/6/21, this dipshit storms the Capitol/Bear sprays a cop and fucks off on the lam/They want the best, and we’re deputized by Kamala/We say fuck that, knight us or we walk!”

It’s a unique spin on activism in the video game era, but what matters most are the riffs and the hammering rhythm. And, for all the song’s neo-vigilante romanticism, it now works as a resounding cry of frustration in an era when Trump’s insurrectionists walk free. This had an immediate impact on Memphis’ No Kings march, as activist Hunter Demster pointed out on social media when he noted that “The guy who showed up yesterday to troll the No Kings protest and did a Nazi salute was Joshua Lee Hernandez. He was a J6er who was convicted of assaulting a police officer. Trump pardoned him.”   

Red Squad could have been singing about that very convicted criminal: “We swore to catch him/We’ll put his ass on ice/Oath keeping fascist!” But instead of calling modern day knights and screeching eagles, the protesters just swiped his oversized MAGA hat and let him look like a fool.

“Nanoplastique” — Joybomb

As Joybomb’s founder and singer-songwriter Grant Beatty told the Flyer recently, “When I was a kid, I got into punk rock and went to the Warped Tour, and there was Rock against Bush. ‘Political punk’ sounds so cheesy, but at the time, you know, there was a war going on. Being a kid, I was super inspired by a lot of that stuff and those bands, even going back to the Clash, you know? Protest music through the power of good lyricism and clever writing and rock-and-roll.”

He brings that energy in full to this tune, an ironic take on the omnipresence of microplastics in our environment, our food, and our bodies. “We’ll call it human progress,” he sings. “And forever we’ll flow/Adapting to your new home/Wash it down your sore throat,” goes the chorus, before a spoken word interlude makes clear that we’re living in dark times indeed. “The land mourns and all who live in it languish/Together with the wild animals and the birds of the air/Even the fish are perishing.” It’s a perfect wake up call for an age when the president aims to defund the Environmental Protection Agency research and staff until we’re blue in the face.

Los Psychosis, the city’s only “Latinx psychobilly band” (Photo: Mariana Mondragón)

“El Último Lago de China” — Los Psychosis

In a similar vein, Los Psychosis, a self-described “Memphis-based Latinx psychobilly band,” takes a hard look at the big picture of the environment. Translated as “The Last Lake in China,” the song mourns the disappearance of clean environments where humans can thrive.

As the band’s singer, Javi Arcega, notes, “On NPR, they were talking about the last lake in China that is clean enough to drink water from, and what locals were doing to save it. And at the end of the story, the narrator said that it is no longer the last clean lake in China. It made me think about how great the nation of China is, how huge and powerful it is, and yet there are no clean lakes there. I didn’t even know I was intentionally writing a political environmental song. I had this conscious feeling of like, ‘Hey, we’re destroying the Earth!’ And you can think, ‘I’m so glad that’s not happening in my town,’ but if you’ve heard about Flint, Michigan, you’ll realize it is happening in your town.”

Beyond that, thanks to the current administration, Arcega feels as though, being a Latino, his very existence is a political act. “I feel like it’s so important to be a voice for the people because there’s only a handful of us Latin musicians in town that are very active in the music scene. At the same time, it’s easy to be a target. So I’ve just got to play it cool and [try to] not be a target. But it’s very hard because you just want to sing about what’s going on.”

“Ferguson to Palestine” — Aktion Kat

If you’re wondering where Aktion Kat is coming from, look no further than the title of his 2023 album, It’s Fun to Transgress! The subtitle puts a finer point on it: Rock ‘n’ Roll for the Revolution. And, like Los Psychosis, Aktion Kat is ready and willing to embrace a more international perspective, especially on the hard-hitting, yet surprisingly folksy, “Ferguson to Palestine,” where he sings: “Riot police and flash grenades/Tear gas canisters Amerikkkan made/All funded by the taxes we pay/Occupation is a crime/Ferguson to Palestine. It’s about class, it’s about race/It’s about fuckin’ time that we smash the state and we all participate/Revolution in our time. Ferguson to Palestine/We oughta know, we all should know, this is for real/It’s not a show. There’s blood in the streets wherever you go/Hands up, don’t shoot. I’m young and Black/I wanna live and not get shot in the back.”

It’s an unflinching embrace of radical chic, and if some feel it’s merely a fashion statement, note that Aktion Kat has played a supportive role in nuts-and-bolts politics, as with last December’s Community Distro event that passed out harm-reduction gear and collected contributions for a food pantry. Also note that the group’s allies are legion, and, as they write, “Their myriad komrades are molotov kocktail-slinging kittens from the 9th dimension.” Moreover, they’re armed with a comic strip and action figures. Who said smashing the state couldn’t be fun?

Iron Mic Coalition (Photo: courtesy Quinn McGowan)

“Original Man” — Iron Mic Coalition

While many of the aforementioned artists are on the new side, the Iron Mic Coalition (IMC) is a 20-year-old Memphis institution. And, although one of their most outspokenly political members, Fathom 9, has passed away, this local hip-hop collective is more relevant than ever. Case in point, their release from this March, IMC 4th Edition: Still Iron, keeps the politics front and center. But, as founding member Quinn McGowan puts it, their politics are woven into a whole way of life, built on the four pillars of hip-hop: DJ’ing, emceeing, break dancing, and graffiti.

The way McGowan sees it, all four of those elements are inherently political. “Hip-hop has never been designed to be passive, right? It is an active culture.” Yet at the same time, he emphasizes that rapping is meant to convey the totality of human experience. “I try to be careful about the idea that hip-hop has to adhere to a singular identity, right? People who are rapping are doing activist type stuff, or they are doing poetry, or they are sampling. Activists need to relax, too. It can’t be marching and chanting and fighting all the time.”

Having said that, one can hear McGowan mulling over that tension in the lead cut, “Original Man,” when he raps, “The navigator relapsed to a state of inattentiveness/Which in a last-moment scenario requires the sort of inventiveness/That suggests that I was meant for this!” He’s grappling with the need to be awake to the world’s injustices, even as he feeds his needs as a complete human. Ultimately, he’s down with the resistance. “In the ’90s ran with the mujahedin/Over dunes like Muad’Dib,” referencing the native rebels in Dune.  

It’s a balancing act that McGowan has maintained for decades; it’s now carried on by his son Eillo, who also raps on the track. The way he sees it, IMC is playing the long game. “The funny thing about this fourth project, is that, you know, without being contrived or manufactured in any way at all, the album speaks to the moment, not because we as a group are particularly prescient, but more because we’re literally doing what we have always been doing. We’re not doing anything different. We’re trying to speak to the moment that we’re living in and trying to stay with the truth that formed us.”

Joseph and David Higgins of Chinese Connection Dub Embassy and Negro Terror (Photo: Jamie Harmon)

“Stay Focused” — Chinese Connection Dub Embassy (CCDE)

“KKKaren Anthem” — Negro Terror

These twin groups are familiar voices of protest in Memphis, both having the Higgins family at their core. The late, great Omar Higgins helped jumpstart both CCDE, a roots reggae group, and Negro Terror, a hardcore band, before his death in 2019, and his brothers Joseph and David now carry the torch.

The CCDE single “Stay Focused” was written by Joseph and Jasira Olatunji and released just before the election last year. Much like IMC’s “Original Man,” it conjures up the personal work one needs to attend to in order to stay active politically over the long haul, this time with an eerily prescient line about neo-fascists actually pursuing those who resist. “You got to stay focused alright cause ya know they coming for ya/Babylon a try to come for you/Wanna distract I and the ghetto youth/But we stand firm on our square/We not goin’ anywhere for this fight, yes we are prepared.”

As Joseph observes, “If you see what’s going on the news and TV and everything, like obviously they’re trying to take our focus off some things that are going on in the world right now. We’re seeing trafficking even in our own backyard, in Memphis! This song is really a call to action. Like people, y’all need to stay focused because Babylon is out here!”

Meanwhile, on more punk note, his brother David carries on as the guitarist and singer of Negro Terror. Their latest release, “KKKaren Anthem,” features these lines, chanted over some very metal chords of doom: “Karen you just won’t quit/You say I fit the description when I ain’t did shit/Then you say you wanna stand your ground, telling me to go to my side of town/Back off trick we just wanna be free because the ugly side of me you don’t wanna see/All you can do is hope and pray because the real street justice is on its way.” If it reads like a threat, it’s also a forceful act of self-defense in the face of white privilege — another side of the personal, interior work one needs to carry on.

Seize and Desist (Photo: H.N. James)

“Stand for Something” — Seize & Desist

Meanwhile, after Omar’s death, two original Negro Terror members, guitarist Rico Tha Akronym and drummer Ra’id Khursheed, went their own way to carry on the hardcore activist spirit. And their 2022 debut EP, The Cease and Desist Letter, is full of hard-hitting riffs paired with trenchant political lyrics. The kickoff track, like the tracks by IMC and CCDE, is not only a call to action, but an exhortation to adopt an activist’s state of mind. It’s something that many of us need to be reminded of. “No longer asking why/At this point it’s do or die/Stand for something, fall for nothing! Betrayed! Enslaved! Led history astray! The lies! Replies/No matter what we try.” It bears repeating, especially when, as Rico observes, “I’ve watched a lot of people stand on one thing, but then when it was gonna ruin their fun, or when it was gonna be uncomfortable, all of a sudden, no one’s talking anymore.”

“Hitler Lives” — Reba Russell Band

As a final note, a look backward. The great supergroup Mud Boy and the Neutrons had more than a few songs that conjured up the rebellious spirit of the ’60s, but one of their most effective was “Hitler Lives,” written by Red River Dave and Bill Crouch and first released by Rosalie Allen and the Black River Riders in 1947. Far from being a rallying cry for neo-Nazis (all too imaginable in this day and age), it’s actually a warning. It was revived in powerful fashion in 2010 by the Reba Russell Band, great colleagues of Jim Dickinson and the Mud Boy crew, who slowed it down into an aggrieved country soul ballad. And while it was originally meant to decry the plight of homeless World War II veterans, it rings ever more true for all of us today, on this very twisted Fourth of July:

“Is your memory so numb/You’ve forgotten ’41/When the world was all aflame from shore to shore?/You can count on this my friend/You let Hitler live again/If you should ever turn a hero from your door … Hitler lives … if we hurt our fellow man/Hitler lives … if you forget.” 

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Immigration Crackdown

Editor’s note: Maria and Jose are not the real names of the two main subjects of this story. As a general practice, the Institute for Public Service Reporting does not use pseudonyms but is doing so in this case because of the sensitive nature of this story, which shines light on the plight of many immigrant families.

Sitting on a metal stool at her breakfast bar, Maria sighs and stares into the distance as she recalls her unlawful entry into the U.S. two decades ago.

“[Where I come from] it is nearly impossible to get a visa for this country,” says the curly haired mother of four who migrated here from Latin America in the early 2000s to escape crushing poverty and the roaming gangs that terrorized her hometown.

Her journey to a middle-class life in Tennessee came at great cost. The day she stuffed her life into a backpack, she said goodbye to her mother, father, and siblings — virtually everything and everyone she had ever known. She left with a tube of toothpaste, a toothbrush, a deodorant stick, and two changes of clothing as well as her ID that she stashed inside her bra for safekeeping.

Maria and a crew of laborers on clean-up duty. This photo has been altered to protect identities. (Photo: Erika Konig)

“You don’t know if you will be killed or raped,’’ said Maria, who was a young adult when she hired a team of smugglers to guide her on a treacherous trek across towering mountains, murky rivers, and rugged wastelands. “There is so much uncertainty.”  

Following her husband, Jose, who came to the U.S. before her, she’s lived the past decade in Tennessee where she and Jose earn a living laboring with their hands. Together, they’re living an American dream, building a future for their children, three of whom were born and raised in the U.S.

But the family’s sense of security came tumbling down when Jose was arrested on a decades-old immigration violation — a legal dilemma that could result in his deportation. Back in the early 2000s, an attorney had advised Jose to skip an immigration court hearing, he said. It was poor advice — and a clear mistake.

Still, Jose thought he had put the matter far behind him, until recently when police pulled him over for a traffic violation. That’s when his old immigration case popped up in a computer check.

Police alerted federal authorities and Jose then was arrested by U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) agents and held in custody briefly before being released with a temporary work permit. He now attends routine immigration check-ins. The possibility of deportation — and family separation — is a constant threat hanging over both Jose and Maria.

“I go out, and I don’t know if I will make it back,” Maria said. “You could get caught at work, stopped by police. … You can’t even go out to eat at a restaurant” without fearing being arrested by ICE agents, she explained.

What’s changed for Maria and Jose is a wave of anti-immigrant sentiment that’s spread across Tennessee, intensifying following the election last November of President Donald Trump. Much of that sentiment is built on contentions by Trump and others that the ranks of the U.S.’s estimated 11 million to 14 million undocumented immigrants are overflowing with murderers, rapists, terrorists, and other hardcore criminals — “illegal alien monsters,” Trump called them in his address to Congress in March.

Examples of heinous crimes do exist. Yet repeated studies have shown immigrants are far less likely to commit crimes than the native population. One, a six-year study in Texas, found that “undocumented immigrants are arrested at less than half the rate of native-born U.S. citizens for violent and drug crimes.”

Getting to the truth can be difficult, given the broad secrecy and misinformation surrounding deportation efforts nationally and in Tennessee, according to records reviewed by the Institute for Public Service Reporting and interviews with more than a dozen immigrants, attorneys, law enforcement officials, a college professor, and others who study U.S. immigration policy.

The best evidence suggests that the typical undocumented immigrant more closely resembles Maria and Jose than Jose Antonio Ibarra, the infamous Venezuelan man convicted last year of murdering Georgia nursing student Laken Riley, whose story has become a rallying cry for the mass deportation movement.

“The majority of us come here to work,” Maria said.

“Very loving people”

On a typical weekday Maria rises before the sun, cooks breakfast for her family, then gets ready for the day before driving her teenage daughter to school. By 8:45 a.m. she is dressed for work, ready to begin her day in manual labor.

It’s a tough, busy life, but not nearly as chaotic as the one she knew in her homeland.

“There are two things you can do: join the criminals or join the group of people who are living in hiding and constant fear,” Maria said of her options back home.

Growing up, Maria dreamed of becoming a medical professional. She found only misery and fear.

The best her hardscrabble hometown could offer was the equivalent of 15 U.S. dollars a week mopping floors and cleaning bathrooms. Then there were the heavily armed gangs that roamed the streets, stealing what little people had. One day, a man pointed a cold gun barrel at her back. He stole her watch — a Casio with a black leather wristband and gold-colored bezel — the only piece of jewelry she had ever owned. Incidents like this happened often, she said. Her brother’s house has been burned down twice.

Completamente inseguro,’’ Maria said in her native Spanish. Completely unsafe.

“You go out to work and could get robbed. You could be home and get robbed,” she said.

The Institute for Public Service Reporting was not able to independently verify Maria’s account, but it is consistent with news reports and studies of the region of Latin America from where she and Jose are from.

Nothing has come easy for the couple, not even here in their adopted country.

Over the past two decades in the U.S., Maria has worked many jobs: as a nanny, a cook, a factory worker, and a laborer, all while juggling her responsibilities as a wife and mother working to make ends meet.

She is one of the estimated 13.7 million people living in the country without authorization. She and her husband Jose pay taxes but receive no government benefits such as Social Security or Medicaid.

“They believe in the Bible and what it teaches,” said their pastor, a lifelong Tennessean. “I’ve never had a problem with them as far as their honesty and the way they deal with people. They’re very loving people. … They love to serve and so they are very involved in the ministries.”

Activists march outside the ICE’s Nashville field office last month as a bus leaves with dozens of detained individuals following a series of raids. (Photo: Martin Cherry | Nashville Banner)

Crackdown on illegal immigration

Stories of unauthorized immigrants like Jose and Maria can’t be found on ICE’s news releases web page. The site serves as a virtual rogue’s gallery of nefarious characters, seeming to reinforce the nation’s worst fears of an immigrant crime wave. ICE arrested a Guatemalan child sex offender on March 7th in New York, the site says. It removed a Romanian fraudster a day earlier in New Jersey. The agency has taken down a Mexican fugitive wanted for kidnapping, an El Salvadoran child rapist, a Chinese sex trafficker, a Colombian child molester who once served as a priest, and scores of others since Trump took office in January.

Trump’s “border czar,’’ Tom Homan, told reporters last month the crackdown has achieved “unprecedented success.’’ The White House reported then that about 139,000 people had been deported since Trump took office in January. Though deportation numbers at times fell short of numbers under former President Joe Biden, the Trump administration says the comparison is not fair. That’s because illegal border crossings have fallen precipitously. The federal government reported in March that 7,181 people were apprehended nationwide during border crossings, a 95 percent decrease from March 2024, according to the Associated Press.

“We’re going to keep doing it, full speed ahead,” Homan said of the crackdown.

In his address to Congress, Trump recited the story of Laken Riley, a 22-year-old Georgia nursing student who was abducted and murdered last year by an undocumented immigrant from Venezuela who had been previously arrested on a theft charge. Her murder stirred a national debate over border security, leading Congress in January to pass the Laken Riley Act, which allows ICE to detain unauthorized immigrants accused but not necessarily convicted of theft-related crimes.

Immigrant advocates like Matthew Orr say the Laken Riley law has helped create an atmosphere of zero tolerance in which Hispanic- or foreign-looking people are racially profiled.

“What is to prevent local, state, and/or federal authorities from levying a completely false shoplifting charge against an immigrant, for the sole purpose of detaining them?” asks Orr, managing attorney for Latino Memphis, a nonprofit that advocates for Hispanic residents seeking healthcare, education, and justice.

Already, numbers of people with no criminal record or with records of petty offenses are being swept up in the mass deportation efforts, immigration advocates say.   

In February, the Department of Homeland Security sent more than 170 Venezuelan nationals to Guantanamo Bay; National Public Radio (NPR) reported that about a third of them had no criminal record.

In March, after the Trump administration invoked the Alien Enemies Act, more than 250 undocumented immigrants were rounded up without hearings and flown to a maximum-security prison in El Salvador on suspicion of belonging to the Venezuelan gang Tren de Aragua. The administration has conceded that many do not have criminal records, The Washington Post reported. Many of the deportees, among them a Venezuelan soccer player, continue to claim they are not gang members. CBS News reported that “an overwhelming majority have no apparent criminal convictions or even criminal charges.”

Earlier this spring, the administration also began arresting international students who are in the country legally and without criminal records. Several of them have been linked to pro-Palestinian protests. The federal government has accused some of them of being “pro-Hamas” and acting in “erratic behavior,” prompting more allegations of unjust treatment.

Latino Memphis’ Orr warns that the erosion of the right to due process could have dire consequences for immigrants and citizens alike. “Due process protections are not a privilege for criminals but a safeguard for the innocent. This is not a political issue,” he said.

Secrecy and missteps in Tennessee

Tennessee is attempting to gauge the impact of crime by undocumented immigrants under a law passed last year by the General Assembly. It requires local law enforcement to report the number of people living here without authorization who’ve been charged with or convicted of crimes.

In its first report under the law, the Tennessee District Attorneys General Conference in January released its 2024 Immigration Report. The report captured data only from the last quarter of 2024. During that three-month period, there were 2,719 reports of crimes committed by individuals unlawfully present statewide, the report said.

Overall, the report listed 3,854 charges (some defendants had multiple charges), including 447 violent offenses. Those violent offenses included 11 homicide charges, six counts of aggravated rape, and three others involving rape of a child.

But the report is deficient on several counts, said Meghan Conley, assistant professor of practice in the Department of Sociology at the University of Tennessee, Knoxville.

For one, the report fails to separate criminal convictions from mere allegations, Conley said.

The report also fails to provide overall state crime numbers needed to assess the share of crime committed by undocumented immigrants. But numbers obtained from other sources suggest the percent of crime committed by undocumented immigrants is low.

For example, the Immigration Report cited 59 reports of criminal acts by undocumented immigrants in Shelby County for the last quarter of 2024. Over the course of a year, that total would reach 236 criminal acts. That represents about 1.7 percent of the approximately 14,000 criminal incidents reported in Shelby County last year by the Memphis Shelby Crime Commission.

One would expect that share to be larger based on population numbers. According to the Migration Policy Institute there are about 26,000 unauthorized persons living in Shelby County. That represents about 2.9 percent of the county’s population of 910,530.

Conley sees additional problems with the report including a flawed data collection system.

“Law enforcement officers do not have training to understand the complexity of immigration law and immigration status,” Conley said.

Shelby County District Attorney Steve Mulroy agreed, saying the data might be unreliable for reasons that include lack of training.

His theory proved difficult to test, however. Neither the Memphis Police Department nor the Sheriff’s Office responded to inquiries about the training that officers received to collect this data.

Digging deeper, the Institute requested the raw data that the District Attorneys General Conference received from local law enforcement agencies, but the request was denied. The report comes as Tennessee also is developing a state immigration division to assist in President Trump’s mass deportation initiative. By law, many records in that office are exempt from disclosure.

Mulroy said drug trafficking passing through Shelby County does have a distinct foreign-born element, and that is an issue of concern. But he adds that “exaggerated fear and loathing of undocumented people” and “migrant crime” are unwarranted: “Based on my experience, I have no reason to think they commit any more crime than documented people or native-born people,” Mulroy said.

In a joint investigation in 2019, the Marshall Project and The New York Times found little correlation between changes in crime rates and changes in estimated undocumented immigrant populations in 161 cities around the country — including Memphis, Nashville, Chattanooga, and Knoxville — between 2007 and 2016.

“There’s no connection at all that we could see between any type of crime and the undocumented immigration,” said Anna Flagg, senior data reporter at the Marshall Project.

Crime rates remained the same in metro areas regardless of whether the population of undocumented immigrants increased or decreased, Flagg said.

Like Maria, Jose earns a living laboring with his hands. A recent traffic stop has raised his fears of deportation. (Photo: Erika Konig)

Jose is arrested

The crackdown on illegal immigration has hit close to home for Maria and Jose.

Their troubles started when Jose was pulled over by police due to an equipment failure on his car.

As Jose tells it, an officer told him that ICE had a warrant for his arrest. It was issued years ago by an immigration judge after Jose failed to show up for a court hearing. In his absence, the judge issued an order to remove him from the country. In an interview, Jose said he didn’t go to the hearing for fear of being deported and due to bad legal advice. During the recent traffic stop, an officer told him to expect a call from a detective.

“I gave her my phone number, and when I heard that, I knew the police would not call,” he said. “Immigration is going to show up at my house.”

Weeks later, ICE Enforcement and Removal Operations officers knocked on his door, he said.

In another twist, officials who reviewed his record decided to release him on his own recognizance and provided him with a work permit, he said. Records held by ICE were unavailable.

In the wake of the traffic stop and the decision to allow him to remain in the U.S. at least temporarily, Jose was overcome with emotion.

“I cried like a baby,” he said.

Given the intensity of the current crackdown on illegal immigration, however, Jose may still face an uphill battle to remain in the U.S.

An undocumented immigrant who is under supervision following an order of removal “can be removed at any time in ICE’s discretion,” said Memphis immigration attorney Sally M. Joyner. An immigrant’s options for remaining in the country include proving that he or she failed to receive notice of a removal hearing, establishing a reasonable fear of persecution or torture if deported, or requesting humanitarian status, Joyner said.

Jose said if he’s ordered to be removed he will appeal his case even though he doesn’t have an immigration lawyer and says he can’t afford one.

“Every day I pray to God to give me the opportunity to stay here with my kids,” he said.

Violation of immigration laws

Contrary to popular opinion, living in the U.S. without permission isn’t necessarily a crime. It’s a civil violation, according to immigration attorney Orr.

On the other hand, entering the country without express authorization is a crime. Avoiding examination or inspection by the federal government violates 8 U.S. Code § 1325, and is a misdemeanor punishable by a fine or up to six months in jail.

By some estimates, nearly half the U.S.’s undocumented population entered the country legally as students, professionals, or workers who then overstayed their visas. Those infractions are violations of civil law, not criminal law. 

Orr likens overstaying a visa to a publicly traded corporation violating the Securities and Exchange Commission’s civil rules and regulations. He finds it infuriating that many unlawfully present immigrants are portrayed as dangerous criminals.

“The idea is to place all of the ills of society at the feet of the immigrant and to convince the general public that immigrants are your enemy. They’re taking your jobs; they’re criminals; they’re dangerous,” he said.

The criminal migrant rhetoric is proving effective. A February poll conducted by NPR concluded that people who get their news from conservative news outlets are more likely to believe false statements about immigrant communities, including that large numbers of migrants coming into the U.S. have been released from jails or mental institutions and that immigrants are more likely to commit crimes than the U.S.-born population.

Maria and Jose’s pastor said that lack of knowledge is troubling.

“If most people knew the lengths that people went to be here and contribute, I think they would have a little different attitude,” he said.

“The majority of the people that have come here and they’re undocumented that I have known have been very decent people, hardworking people, loving people,” he said. “I would not have any idea what the percentage is, but to be violent criminals, I would say it would be a very small percentage, and I wouldn’t think it would be any higher probably than any other group of people that’s here.

“I think most of them want to be here to stay; they want to raise a family; they want it to be a safe environment; they want it to be a stable economy because it’s their future.”

Meanwhile, Maria and Jose live with the knowledge that anything can change at any given moment. Maria said her family gathers strength from the moments they spend with each other, their interactions with friends, and through their daily prayers.

“I’m here because of God’s greatness,” said Maria.

“Everything is in God’s hands.” 

The Institute of Public Service Reporting’s Marc Perrusquia contributed to this article.

Categories
Cover Feature News

What Ever Happened To …

Big projects come and go in Memphis — new buildings, new street designs, new public amenities.

For some of them, leaders eventually grab big scissors and cut oversized ribbons, smile into cameras while a crowd applauds. Some fade, like The Clipper. Remember The Clipper? It was to be a huge skyscraper hotel/office/retail project near the FedExForum. It was announced on its website in February 2019. Then news about The Clipper on that site stopped in July 2019.

Some projects, though, make us ask, “What ever happened to XYZ?” A few years ago, we ran an occasional series called “What Ever Happened To …,” in which we updated some of those projects, especially splashy bike and pedestrian projects that every Memphian could enjoy.

It turns out that after our updates then, we still need updates now. For them, we asked city and county leaders for help. They got to work over a week and a half, checking in with many different departments that then had to check in with so many contractors. In the end, they provided us with a pretty good update to satisfy our burning question: “What Ever Happened To …”     

We’ll start with a couple of examples of completed projects.

The I-55/Crump Boulevard Interchange was opened to traffic this May after being in the works for over a decade. (Photos: Tennessee Department of Transportation)

I-55/Crump Boulevard Interchange
• Announced: 2015
• Status: complete

The Flyer started writing about the I-55/Crump Interchange project back when it was announced in May 2015. (Though public hearings on the idea began in 2009.) By the end of July 2015, Tennessee Department of Transportation (TDOT) officials punted the plan for a year. Opposition rose as the plan called for the Memphis-Arkansas Bridge (the Old Bridge) to be closed for nine months, redirecting all of its traffic to the Hernando DeSoto Bridge (the New Bridge).

The old cloverleaf design was built in the mid-1960s. It was meant to handle 28,500 vehicles daily, with 8 percent truck traffic, according to the Federal Highway Administration (FHWA). In 2015, traffic averaged 60,330 vehicles daily, with 26 percent trucks. By 2035, the interchange will see 84,500 vehicles per day, according to FHWA projections.

With this and more, John Schroer, the TDOT commissioner at the time, called the interchange “the worst interchange we have in the state of Tennessee.” Then-Memphis Mayor AC Wharton called it “malfunction junction.” They remained resolute to fix it.

The plan returned in 2022 and would only close the Old Bridge for two weeks. Construction began that year. And, as we know now, the new interchange opened to traffic in May. 

Peabody Avenue Paving Project
• Announced: 2018
• Status: complete

We reported back in 2018 that “the city has plans to give the 1.7-mile stretch of Peabody from Bellevue to Cooper a makeover that includes fewer lanes for cars. … The street will be resurfaced and bike lanes, along with traffic-calming configurations, will be installed.”

At the time, public meetings were scheduled to present two different designs. One design would have put the bike lanes right against the curb and parking spots on the road to act as a buffer to protect cyclists. As we know now, the design that won put bike lanes out against moving traffic.

Questions and opposition to the plan slowed the process somewhat. The plan put Peabody on a “road diet,” reducing its two car lanes to one and adding the bike lane. Residents worried the plan might congest traffic and add confusion. 

The paving project was completed in 2022. Aside from smoothing out the rough road deck, its bike lanes were to help connect bike lanes to Martin Luther King, which it did, and to Cooper, which did not have bike lanes at the time. It did that, too, once Cooper’s bike lanes opened in 2022.

However, all of those bike lanes were hoped to reach farther east to, one day, connect Downtown and Shelby Farms Park. To do that, though, the city had to build “the Shelby Farms Greenline bridge that will extend the Greenline to Tobey Park.”

Construction for “The Last Mile” of the Greenline could begin in the first half of 2026 if plans are approved. (Photos: City of Memphis)

Greenline Connector from Tillman to Cooper
• Announced: 2016
• Status: Construction could begin in 2026

This is a three-project endeavor that aims to finally connect the Shelby Farms Greenline to Midtown and beyond, with improvements to what one city planning map calls “The Last Mile.”

The first project would connect the Greenline where it now ends at Tillman to the end of Flicker Street at Union. To do this requires a second project, a new bike and pedestrian bridge over train tracks. The third project would connect that bike and pedestrian path from Flicker to Cooper Street, which then hooks up to bike lanes all the way to Downtown, Big River Crossing, and, eventually, Arkansas.   

Since this idea was announced, three different people (and one orange guy twice) have occupied the White House, Kanye West came out as a Nazi (and recanted his Nazism), and Elon Musk, who publicly gave the Nazi salute twice, built a supercomputer on President’s Island.

Here’s how the first two projects were described by the City of Memphis Bikeway and Pedestrian Program’s website in October 2016: “The scope of this project is from the Greenline’s current terminus at Tillman Street to Flicker Street. Due to the necessity of crossing an active railroad, the city will construct a bicycle and pedestrian bridge in between the Union Avenue and Poplar Avenue viaducts.”

When I checked last week, the Greenline still ended at Tillman, where a grassy patch leads to a wall of dense, green brush. No signs of construction were apparent on the Flicker end, either. However, it’s likely that city officials are waiting on word about the bridge project before they start clearing that connecting path.

When we checked back in on this project in 2022, a city official said the federal funds for the project came with a lot of red tape. Nicholas Oyler, then the manager of the city’s bike and pedestrian program, said the feds required a ton of environmental review for the project. Because the bridge would go over those train tracks, it added another level of scrutiny and boxes to check. Back then, planning and design was underway thanks to some environmental clearances. Oyler predicted construction could begin as soon as 2023.

Now, however, city officials said they hope to submit plans for the bridge to TDOT by year’s end. If approved, construction could begin in the first half of 2026, they said.

Once that project is complete, the final project — the Shelby Farms Greenline Midtown Connector — would then pick up at a trailhead on Flicker and run west to Cooper.

Originally, this connector would have pushed through Tobey Park and into Liberty Park (what was called the Mid-South Fairgrounds when the plan was announced). A city website said in 2021, though, that officials were mulling other possible routes in a larger area that spans Cooper to Flicker and Avery to Central.

One rendering from the City of Memphis Bikeway and Pedestrian Program website shows a neat-o bridge over East Parkway (using the rail line there) to connect at Harbert. But it’s unclear if it’ll ever materialize.

City officials did not give any dates or solid timelines for this project.

“This project is still in the early concept and design stages, and the city is waiting for the go-ahead from TDOT to officially get started,” city officials said. “It would extend the Shelby Farms Greenline from Flicker Street to a spot in Midtown that’s still being decided.”

A bike-and-pedestrian-friendly crossing was announced in 2014 for Cooper across Poplar and into Overton Park. There’s no construction timeline for the project.
(Photos: (left) City of Memphis, (right) Toby Sells)

Cooper-Poplar Connector to Overton Park
• Announced: 2014
• Status: final design due in September, no construction timeline

Announcements for the Cooper-Poplar Connector — the project to make a bike-and-pedestrian-friendly crossing from Cooper across Poplar and into Overton Park — came as early as 2014, the same year (spoiler alert) Joffrey was killed off on Game of Thrones.

The need for the connector arose in a 2013 study that said “it is dangerous and uncomfortable for pedestrians” walking to, from, or along the perimeter of the park. It was also “difficult” for cyclists to cross North Parkway, East Parkway, or Poplar to get to the park. Bike and pedestrian improvements, the study said, “are long overdue for the most prominent park in the city park system. These improvements are also driven by the inconsistent condition of bike/pedestrian facilities in the park vicinity and strong community interest in this project.”

City officials said the project got officially underway in 2016, when Harambe memes were inescapable online. A design consultant began work in 2017, the year that sparked the #MeToo movement. And the federal environmental review of the project was completed in 2020, when everyone was talking about Tiger King.   

When we checked in on this project in 2022, the city was prepping Cooper for bike lanes. Those were to connect Poplar to crosswalks, a protected bike crossing at the traffic signal, a new landing pad on the park side for bikes and pedestrians, and a new path that was to connect to the park’s trail system.

“Once this plaza and that connection goes in, it will be made more seamless and it’ll feel a lot safer getting across,” Oyler said at the time.

Here again, he said the federal funds tied to the project and a surprise environmental review from the state slowed the work. At the time, he expected to break ground on the project in mid-2023.

In 2025, officials said the final roadway design is due to TDOT in September. They didn’t expect any new right-of-way to be acquired. Also, utilities for the project and TDOT approval should only take two or three months, they said.

But it hasn’t just been the slow-turning gears of government that has held up the Cooper-Poplar Connector to Overton Park project.

“The project was effectively on hold from 2020 to 2022 due to Covid-19 impacts and staff transitions within the city of Memphis,” officials said. “During this period, the consultant’s contract expired. In 2023, with the arrival of the new [project manager], the contract was renegotiated and subsequently extended in 2024, allowing design work to resume in July 2024. Several environmental permits had expired and were resubmitted in fall 2024.”

Once the Wolf River Greenway is complete, it will connect 22 neighborhoods over 26 miles. (Photo: Courtesy Wolf River Conservancy)

Wolf River Greenway Final Gaps
• Announced: 2024
• Original project began: as early as 1985
• Status: Construction could be finished by 2029 or 2030

“Good things take time,” reads a quote from author and life coach Sanhita Baruah. “Great things take a little longer.” It’s a quote recently used often in Downtown Neighborhood Association’s emails on its many projects, including bringing music back to Mud Island.

Here, though, everyone knew the Wolf River Greenway would take a little longer. The thing was ambitious from the jump.

Almost as soon as the Wolf River Conservancy was formed 40 years ago, its leaders envisioned a 12-foot-wide trail across Shelby County that would roughly follow the river and eventually connect Mud Island to Germantown and Collierville. Phases of the trail have opened over the decades, and once it’s complete, it will connect 22 neighborhoods over 26 miles. The project is a partnership with the conservancy, the city, and the county.

The Flyer has kept up with the project over the years. Bianca Phillips wrote about the groundbreaking of the John F. Kennedy Park extension in 2015, 10 years ago. Abigail Morici wrote about a temporary public art exhibit along the trail in 2023.

Nearly every story we’ve written about building the project, though, has included a dollar figure. Great things, turns out, take money, too. The “final gaps” project got some big money help last year from the state and federal government.

The Tennessee Department of Environment and Conservation (TDEC), through the Tennessee General Assembly, granted the conservancy $10.3 million to build out 3.9 miles of the greenway that conservancy leaders call “the critical link” connecting Kennedy Park to the Shelby Farms Greenline.

Shortly after that award was announced, city officials told the conservancy it had been granted $21.8 million for the greenway project through the Rebuilding American Infrastructure with Sustainability and Equity (RAISE) program.

“This RAISE grant will fund construction costs for two remaining sections of the Greenway in historically disadvantaged communities in North Memphis,” the conservancy said at the time. “The project will navigate over and under major transit infrastructure (a railroad and state highway) that are barriers to parks, neighborhoods, and everyday destinations.”

City leaders said some final designs were delayed from May 2024 through April 2025. Parts of the design had construction on or near the levee, which meant the project needed permission from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) to make sure it was safe.

That review brought design changes for the trail. Those changes will have to be approved again. If they are, that could mean new land acquisition to build the actual trailway.

City officials said final plans will be sent to TDOT for review in September. Planning work will continue next year. Bids on the construction of the project are expected to go out in February 2027. Leaders expect construction to be finished by 2029 or 2030.   

“Better Jefferson” Road Project
• Announced: 2020
• Status: Design could be finished in 2026, no construction timeline known

“A two-mile stretch of Jefferson is targeted for a $4.2 million makeover to help increase transportation options in the heart of Memphis,” the Flyer wrote in 2020. “The goal is to move Downtown, the Medical District, and Midtown together.”

The Better Jefferson project was to help cyclists, pedestrians, and motorists with resurfacing and striping, sidewalk and ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) upgrades, enhanced pedestrian crossings, traffic signal modernizations, bicycle facilities, traffic calming, and landscaping elements.

Five years after it was announced, Jefferson is still the same old Jefferson. However, city officials said the design phase of the project could be wrapped up in 2026. The timing of that process will inform a construction start date and, maybe, a completion date.

Memphis Cobblestone Landing (Photo: Toby Sells)

Memphis Cobblestone Landing
• Announcement date: 2015
• Status: Construction could be complete by November

Those cobblestones at the river’s edge have vexed leaders here for decades.

They’re uneven, treacherous, especially for any tourist traversing them from a big tour bus to a river boat. But they’re historic, too, the oldest intact cobblestone port in the United States. If the Mississippi (or the Platte, or the Missouri) is “too thin to plow, too thick to drink,” the cobblestones are too rough to keep and too cool to throw away.

A 2008 Flyer story had a river boat pilot bitching about the stones. A 2009 story had two disparate riverfront groups agreeing that “the riverfront’s historic cobblestone landing is in dire need of repair.” In a 2014 timeline of Beale Street Landing, a 1987 Center City Commission plan called to restore the landing. A 2015 Flyer story said a $6 million plan was emerging that would keep the cobblestones’ history but make them easier to walk upon. 

“That plan would create the Cobblestone Landing Accessible Trail, a sidewalk that will run along the wall below Riverside Drive,” the story said. “It will stretch from Court to Monroe with handicap-accessible ramps on both sides. The walk will feature two bump-outs for viewing and will be even with the cobblestones in the center.”

Any “new” plan for the cobblestones really began three decades ago. In the summer of 1994, the city built a foundation at the foot of Beale Street to be used for the relocation of the Tom Lee monument. For it, crews removed a large section of cobblestones, and the project was halted by the USACE for historic preservation. A number of government agencies have piled onto the cobblestone project over the years. But in all that time, the cobblestones themselves have largely remained untouched.

In 2025, city officials said, “At this point, the project is 95 percent complete. River stage permitting, work is expected to resume in September, with completion targeted for November 30, 2025.” 

Categories
Cover Feature News

Dream Weavers

The noise drew Whit Washington to the chain stitch machine that would drive her course into entrepreneurship: a hum, a gentle, rhythmic drum of the push and pull of the thread through the fabric. 

“It’s very cozy, homey, like you feel like you’re sitting by the fireplace,” she says. “And you know something’s being made. The noise makes me feel nostalgic and cozy in a way.”

It’s a noise that once filled the homes of her grandmother and her Cousin Minnie — “my mom’s great aunt or cousin or close friend, family, you know.”

(Photos: Courtesy the Artist)

“Me and my mom used to drive down to Mound Bayou, Mississippi, when I was a little kid … to visit her in her kind of little shack home, but just like the cutest little home. We’d always bring fried chicken down there and eat with her and she had her turnip greens going and growing in the back.

“And in the back room, she had this whole quilting room someone made for her out of wood, and she would hand-sew all of these quilts and these beautiful patterns and use whatever scrap fabric that she had.

“She was quilting until she was like 100 … elaborate, beautiful, handmade quilts, and looking at them, you can just see the little stitches and her hand in it.” 

These quilts captivated and influenced a young Washington, yet work like this done by Black women like Cousin Minnie often goes unnoticed by many, relegated to the background, left for memory boxes. Yet grandmothers and mothers will teach their grandchildren and children to sew, knit, crochet, cross-stitch, quilt, patch — examples of textile or fiber arts, those utilitarian practices that are needed to keep us warm and clothed for millenia. 

Over the years, textile arts have been crafted primarily by women, and mostly by women of color, and so have been neglected from mainstream art narratives. While speaking to the website Artsy, April Bey, a California-based multimedia artist whose work explores themes of Afro-futurism, feminism, post-colonialism, and more, said, “Historically, there’s a perception that, because women have been denied easy access to academia, when [domestic labor] is involved, their work doesn’t hold intellectual value. Sewing and textiles, weaving and craft-based disciplines tend to carry a feminine nature that has been seen as maternal and thereby not as intellectual or serious as the praised painter.” 

Yet on the verge of the feminist art movement of the 1970s, artists sought to flip that narrative and use textiles to question the world and their position in it. But then and now Black textile and fiber artists remain under-shown and underrepresented, forgotten in the weeds of intersectionality. 

In Memphis, artists and institutions alike are seeking to correct that narrative and highlight Black women artists and artistry in fiber and textiles — from hosting exhibits to continuing, reviving, and reimagining art forms that have nearly been lost.

Woven Stories

April Bey is somewhat of a celebrity when it comes to textile and fiber arts — at least to Jayla Slater, a professor of fashion and apparel design at the University of Memphis and curator of “Unraveled,” now on display at the Art Museum of the University of Memphis. “Unraveled” opens with Bey’s work, I Was Just An Alien That Came Down From the Sky to Save Your Dumb Behind, which hangs at the entrance against a bright green wall. 

In the 82-by-60-inch woven blanket, the figure of a woman peers through overlapping panels. She overlooks her shoulder, her gaze staring directly at the viewer, as if she’s inviting us into her world, the blanket becoming some kind of portal into the world Bey has called Atlantica. Atlantica is “a glittering, imagined utopia where Black queer excellence thrives unbothered,” reads the wall text.

The portrait happens to be of Jessi Ujazi, a Memphis native, on Juneteenth — “a day that holds ancestral weight, radical joy, and future-facing liberation.” 

April Bey’s I Was Just An Alien That Came Down From the Sky to 
Save Your Dumb Behind in “Unraveled” (Photo: Courtesy the Artist)

“It was just so fitting,” Slater says of the coincidence. 

“Unraveled” is a sort of Atlantica, a place where Black women can share their joy, their stories, unencumbered. “It was really special to be able to bring this show to Memphis because we’ve not had anything like this,” Slater says of her solo curatorial debut. “I really wanted to celebrate Black women creating work with textiles.” 

Textiles, in particular, hold a special space in Black heritage and culture. “A lot of first experiences that anybody has with relics of their culture is tactile things — especially for Black people and for Black people who are members of the diaspora outside of the continent, who are descendants of enslaved people,” Slater says.

“A lot of written history doesn’t exist, and so a lot of the relics of culture are physical items and a lot of times that comes in the form of textiles, quilts, old pieces of clothing, and furniture or pillows that have been saved. So there’s a cultural component for this show because all of these people are doing their thing, connecting with their people, creative work, just having fun with the medium. It’s really special.”

For an artist like Memphis-based Felicia Rachelle Wheeler, for instance, that looks like using the peyote stitch, a beading technique used in historic and contemporary Native American cultures, to recreate a childhood photo in Way Up There. This was the first time she’d used the peyote stitch, and it took her more than 100 hours and 10,000 beads. 


Felicia Wheeler’s Sarah Lou in Pink is on display in “Unraveled.” (Photo: Courtesy The Artist)

The piece, completed in 2024, combines this peyote stitch with crochet. “Because she’s of mixed cultural heritage and her Native American side used the peyote stitch to create beadwork, she is mixing together all these forms that she’s learned from the matriarchs and her family,” Slater says.

Significantly, Wheeler isn’t the only artist exploring memories and family in the show, nor is she the only Memphis artist among national and even international artists in “Unraveled.” “It was a no-brainer [to include Memphis],” Slater says, “especially connecting to my own roots through the curation. I mean, my roots are here, and these women are telling the story of Memphis.”

Traditions Broken

For Janessa Ladson, Memphis has been a place of artistic rebirth. When she graduated from the University of Tennessee, Knoxville, with her bachelor of fine arts in 2023, she fell into a bit of a creative drought. “I felt stuck. I didn’t know how to exist outside academia,” she says. 

But when Ladson and her fiancée moved back to Memphis in 2024, “I felt this sense of urgency come back to me,” she says. “I think also being back in a place where I saw myself and the different parts of my person and identity reflected more in my community felt as if there was this great igniting of my creative view.” 

She found herself turning — or rather, returning — to a language that first fascinated her as an undergrad: weaving. “When I first started, I definitely was like, ‘Oh, I’m going to be an abstract girly. I’m going to sit in that.’ And not from a fear of representational work or anything like that; I think that I didn’t have any sense of personhood. But because I sat in abstraction, I used all of this collected hair and I decided to build this little language.”

Hair, to Ladson, has always represented herself. “It’s such a large piece of me, in the way that people see me,” she says. “Lots of people pay attention to my hair, and so then I pay attention to my hair. And I think going to predominantly white schools, I am confined literally into everything that existed in those schools. I was a Black girl with bushy, curly hair, and all of my friends were really cutesy white girls with beautiful blue eyes and blonde hair. So I became more aware that it’s almost my personhood. … I think because people see me as my hair, that felt like another way to paint myself.”

And so hair became her paint, her medium; she buys bundles of it at beauty shops to weave around cyanotypes of old family photographs she’s carried with her everywhere she’s moved in a Ziploc bag. “I’m not exceptionally close with my Black family, and most of the people on my mother’s side have passed away,” Ladson says. “I don’t remember a lot of things, but I have this photo and I have evidence of a relationship. And so it’s like putting myself back into the narrative.”

These portraits that mingle hair weavings and family photos have finally allowed Ladson to see herself represented in media — something she’s longed for since she was young. “I wanted to take up a lot of space,” she says. “So when I discovered weaving, I realized that no matter the size, it’s still time-intensive, it’s still laborious, and it still lasts as long.”

By and large, Ladson’s self-taught in her weaving, resorting to library books and asking for advice here and there from a weaving group that meets at Crosstown Arts. “Things of fabrication and stuff like that, I feel like a lot of that is passed down. It’s this thing that you learn from your mom who learned from her mom, who learned from her mom. I didn’t have any of that,” Ladson says. “My relationship to weaving is very untraditional in a sense that feels really fitting, though, because my relationship with my family or lack thereof is very untraditional and dysfunctional.” 

For “Unraveled,” where she has a few of her signature weavings displayed, she created The Greater Part Has Been Removed, as part of her creative rebirth in Memphis. “To be with other Black women is amazing,” Ladson says. “I think it goes back to the idea of me being super inquisitive about other Black women’s experience and me being a baby in terms of knowing and not knowing the things. It’s just super magical. I love to see other Black women who are working in the same textile, fiber arts.” 

In a few weeks, Ladson leaves for New York University for her master’s in arts administration. “There’s like no data showing Black women in managerial positions within the arts infrastructure,” she says. “I wanted to make room for myself, and when I make room for myself, I make room for everyone else.”

Purpose in Nostalgia

“This is the biggest show I’ve done,” says Kid Kardiac. “I wanted an opportunity to show my range in a place where it made sense. A lot of my pieces have been put out on Instagram, on my website, just for people to see from inside my house.”

Kardiac is mostly known for tufting rugs and wall-hangings, but for “Unraveled,” the native Memphian ventured into incorporating other elements, like a frame, a punching bag, and carpentry. As always though, she turned to those who inspire her for her subjects — typically Black artists, musicians, and sports figures, and in this case, Muhammad Ali, André 3000, and Skateboard P.

“My art is about capturing moments,” Kardiac says. “With a fast-paced society, things get forgotten very quickly.” Tufting allows her to bring a moment beyond a photo, to stretch its lifetime and to bring a new experience to it — in the consumption and in the creation.  

Kid Kardiac’s tufted pieces in “Unraveled” (Photo: Abigail Morici)
(Photo: Courtesy the Artist)

The process is laborious and time-intensive, considering planning and editing and the physicality of it all. But, to Kardiac, “It’s almost like a calming thing for me. It feels like therapy in a way.”

She tufted for the first time during the Covid lockdown simply because she couldn’t find a rug she liked. She’d never experimented in visual arts before, her prior creative pursuits being in music. She’d never really drawn, but she was confident she could learn this new skill and that she could improve until she was satisfied. “There wasn’t anything to look up [for tufting],” Cardiac reflects. “I was just finding really old videos of people using the technique.”

But soon Kardiac was posting her creations to Instagram and she started receiving commissions. “It really was a blessing in disguise,” she says. “I didn’t really have a sense of direction as far as what I wanted to do, and so it kind of gave me purpose.

“And then I shifted my focus on work to create my own pieces, and people would buy those as well.”  

These days, Kardiac’s not using her tufted pieces as rugs; she’s hanging them on the walls of her home or exploring new ways to make use of the material — like in “Unraveled.” But even as she dives into new mediums, Kardiac says she doesn’t want to stray from her roots, her tufting. There’s something about it, she says — the sensory element, a sense of nostalgia, coziness. “I want to bring it to another level.” 

Embracing the Culture

Whit Washington found her calling with the chain stitch machine, the one that made all the noise. She had been working various jobs in New York City while at Parsons School of Design. One of them — her job customizing clothing at Nike — had a chain stitch embroiderer. “I was like, ‘That’s it. That’s what I’m gonna do.’”

It took her six or maybe eight months of searching, but she found a chain stitch machine of her own from some guy who got it from Egypt. “Apparently, I really like to learn how to do tedious difficult things,” Washington says. “When I got the machine, I only saw one other Black woman on Instagram doing it, so I reached out to her and I was like, ‘Can you teach me how to use this machine?’”

From there, she took her new-found skill to new jobs, and when she came back home to Memphis during the pandemic, she hit the ground running with an embroidery business that would become Pile of Threads, with wholesale and customizable products. 

Mostly, her work centers around the Black experience and embracing Black womanhood. “I’m really enjoying making things for Juneteententh,” she says, as an example. For Memphis Fashion Week at the Memphis Brooks Museum, she also embroidered pieces celebrating and remembering the Historic Clayborn Temple and the sanitation strike of 1968.

Washington also does pop-ups, where she demonstrates her craft, customizing pieces on the spot, monogramming bandanas or stitching upcycled caps with flash icons. “I don’t mind being on display,” Washington says. “So embroidery is utilitarian, and it can even be performative.”

For these events, she uses her vintage machine. “I’ve always been really nostalgic,” she says. “There’s a feel to it where it’s like, ‘Wow, this is a 100 years old. Who used this before me? What were they making?’

“It’s almost reviving an art because it did kind of lose favor with digital machines. It’s just like, ‘Okay, this is faster, quicker for business.’”

Because of this, the vintage machines have been hard to find for Washington, and getting them repaired is even more difficult. “There’s this lone Facebook group where I would put a video in there and they would answer pretty immediately. But I learned how to become my own mechanic on the machine.”

In Tennessee, at least as far as Washington is aware, there are only two other comparable chain stitch embroidery businesses: RangerStitch in Nashville and Kait Makes in Chattanooga. “Eventually I wanna have a band of stitchers,” Washington hopes. “I’m kind of bringing the energy to Memphis, and it’s trying to carve out new paths and new lanes for artists.”

These days, Washington has also been in school for welding, a craft she hopes to one day intersect with her chain stitch. “There’s not a lot of women in welding, or in the trades period, so I’m like, ‘Come on, let’s be a trailblazer in another way.’”

And as her welding instructor at Moore Tech told her, “Welding is like sewing with the sun.” 

Making Connections

In October, the Memphis Brooks Museum of Art will open its own exhibit honoring Black textile artists, specifically Black Southern quilters. Having originated at the Mississippi Museum of Art (MMA) in Jackson, Mississippi, “Of Salt and Spirit: Black Quilters in the American South” will feature highlights from MMA’s and American photographer and collector Roland L. Freeman’s collections of handmade and machine-stitched quilts. “Our iteration of this exhibition will … [also] tie it back to our Memphis community,” says Kristin Pedrozo, Art Bridges Fellow at the Brooks. “Memphis is definitely no stranger to [the quilting] tradition.”

“Many of these women are from rural areas, folks you would see every day, but individuals that folks may not perceive as artists,” Sharbreon Plummer, “Of Salt and Spirit” curator, said to the Mississippi Free Press when it first opened in Jackson. “It’s important for me to celebrate the contributions of these women as artists, as everyday archivists and individuals who inspire so many.”

Pedrozo admits, “Quilts aren’t typically shown as often as the traditional style of paintings or sculptures are in the museum setting. It is a craft form, and it is one of those craft forms that are extremely labor-intensive and have a lot of intentionality behind them, and on all levels, is a form of artistry. A lot of people around the area have grown up seeing a quilt, either in their home or family homes, so it’s something that we really like about it. It’s a very accessible art form. 

“And I do think, in this moment of the museum world, there’s been a lot of resurgence with showing off craft as an artistry and appreciating it a little bit more.”

For this show, each maker or each community that’s made a quilt has been accounted for. “It’s very common for a lot of old historical textiles to have very little information about its maker,” Pedrozo says. “It’s hard to separate the quilts from their makers, so we placed a lot of importance on the people who are making them.”

Quilts, after all, are personal items, made for personal use, made with care and attention — as are most textile arts. These are slow processes, where the maker’s hand is often shown through their stitches, weaves, and knots. 

“There’s a certain intimacy in it,” Ladson says. “[Art-making] takes away how I want to be perceived and I don’t censure myself. And so when I take away the responsibility and that burden to be accepted, I practice vulnerability and intimacy with myself, which is something I’ve always run from my entire life. … When I’m making, it’s like self-care.”

This burden of perception is particularly sharp for the Black woman’s experience. “Black women are the most forgotten in history,” Ladson says. “They’re always overlooked and misrepresented. There’s so much distrust in Black women. In the way they are painted, sort of culturally, socially, politically, they’re very othered.

“Maybe that’s also why I’m always in awe when I find that there is this whole world of Black women creating and successfully creating.”

From Washington’s Pile of Threads, to the quilters in the Brooks’ “Of Salt and Spirit,” to AMUM’s “Unraveled,” to fiber artist Brittney Boyd Bullock, to tailor Cari’s Closet, to crocheter Hooked by Candice, Black women in Memphis are succeeding in the textile arts. “A lot of textile artists in Memphis fly under their radar,” Slater says, “because our scene is craft. There’s a quilter practically on every corner or somebody that’s fixing up clothes or doing these elaborate wigs for the drag queens.

“I hope people come away [from ‘Unraveled’] feeling really good. The show is a celebration, and so I hope people can feel that for one, and for two, maybe go pick up some textiles.” 

“Unraveled” at AMUM closes August 16th. Admission is free. “Of Salt and Spirit: Black Quilters in the American South” opens at the Brooks on Wednesday, October 1st.

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Pride at 50

Elijah Townsend is one of seven members of the board of directors for the Mid-South Pride Foundation. A born-and-raised Memphian, he says much has changed over his lifetime. “I can remember being a boy and just not feeling safe to be who I was, with things that were inside of my mind. These were natural instincts for me, but I could tell by the reactions of people that something was wrong. Just to be candid, people told me that I was gay before I even knew what the word was and what it meant.” 

Today, we see many headlines about a resurgence of homophobic repression. Transphobia became a major plank in the platforms which got both President Donald Trump and Tennessee Senator Marsha Blackburn re-elected. Local LGBTQ groups like Friends of George’s have been fighting a ban on drag performances in Tennessee, the first such law passed by any state legislature.

But in Memphis, Townsend says, “We have teenagers who are able to exist in high school and be who they are. We have a government — as far as the mayor’s office — who supports our community. We have a liaison who we can call and talk to. We have restaurants and allies all around the city, spaces that are safe for us to go if we need resources or help. And so I definitely can tell the difference from being a young man to a more mature man, in the spaces that have been intentionally created for us to progress in our queerness and just be able to feel free and safe.”

The biggest safe space of all is the Mid-South Pride celebration, which will take place in Robert R. Church Park on Saturday, June 7th. The celebration will kick off at 11 a.m. with a parade down Beale Street, and continue into the evening with music, education, community, and, yes, drag. This is a special year, says Mid-South Pride president Vanessa Rodley, as it marks the 50th year for the celebration in Memphis. “This year’s theme is about honoring where we’ve been while amplifying where we’re going. Pride in Memphis began as a grassroots movement, a bold statement of visibility and demand for change. Fifty years later, we stand on the shoulders of those who marched before us, and we’re carrying their legacy forward.”

Drag performer Bruce Bui dressed as a mermaid in the 2019 Pride parade. Bui died of a heart attack in 2021. (Photo: Kevin Reed | Courtesy Mid-South Pride Foundation, Inc.)

Five Decades of Defiance

The modern LGBTQ rights movement began on June 28, 1969, at the Stonewall Inn in New York City’s Greenwich Village. At the time, there were a few establishments in and around the city where gay and lesbian people gathered under the radar, but they generally didn’t last long, as raids by the vice squad were common and expected. The Stonewall was a Mafia-owned speakeasy and famously the only place in Manhattan where gay men could dance. On this hot summer night, the public morals squad barged in, announcing a raid. But the patrons, some of whom were veterans of the Vietnam War, decided they had had enough. For three nights, protestors and police fought running battles on Christopher Street. When the pioneering alternative weekly newspaper The Village Voice referred to the riots in homophobic terms, protestors surrounded the paper’s headquarters (which were also on Christopher Street) and threatened to burn it down. When it was over, the Stonewall Inn had been destroyed, but a new movement was born. 

The movement came to Memphis that Halloween when activist Bill Kendall organized the Miss Memphis Review in the Guild Theatre, now known as Evergreen Theatre. Since dressing in costume was legal for everyone on Halloween, why wouldn’t drag be permitted? Jimmy “Candace” Cagle was crowned the first winner, and the Miss Gay Memphis Pageant became an annual event. 

In 1970, thousands marched down Christopher Street in New York City on the first anniversary of the Stonewall riots. The celebrations spread throughout the country, and in June 1976, 35 people gathered in Memphis’ Audubon Park for Gay Day in the Park, organized by the Sexuality and Lesbianism Task Force of the National Organization for Women and the Metropolitan Community Church. 

“Mid-South Pride has not always been the curator of Pride here,” says Rodley. “There have been many organizations. We are just the current ones — and hopefully the last ones — but it all started at Gay Day in the Park, 1976.” 

The annual celebration of all things queer has evolved over the years, says Ray Rico, publisher of Focus, Memphis’ LGBTQ magazine. “I remember when it was at Overton Park. I remember when it was a small parade in Overton Square. I remember it being at [Peabody] park over on Cooper and Central. I’ve seen the evolution of it, and I know, with the 50-year anniversary coming up, how tremendous it is for our community to have a pride that large, and to have it on historic Beale Street,” he says. “A lot of my friends and family have come over the years, just to attend. I had the honor of being grand marshal one year. It’s nice to be able to share with your community, your friends, and your family.” 

In the last 15 years, Pride has grown exponentially. Rodley is a native of Los Angeles, California, who moved to Memphis two decades ago. She first attended a Memphis Pride event in 2010. “I was at the park, and I saw how small it was,” she recalls. “I was not saying the nicest things about it because I’d been used to a huge, three-hour parade down Main Street. The cop cars [in L.A.] have rainbow flags on ’em, and so for me it was a real culture shock. But I was talking trash, and a board member said, ‘You should really put yourself in. If you’re going to say something, you should do something.’ So we all joined up and started volunteering right then and there, and ever since we’ve been trying to grow this to something that we feel like our community deserves. We want everyone to be seen, and to do that, you have to create that environment.” 

Last year’s Pride celebration drew an estimated 50,000 people to Robert Church Park, and this year, organizers expect it to be even bigger. “There’s not many Prides in the South until we get to this point in the year,” says Rodley. “Then, a lot of them are in June or in October because of the weather, and also because we all can’t be on the same date. We’re one of the first ones that go out, and we take it as a responsibility to be as loud and as proud and as visible as we can.” 

Mid-South Pride remains an all-volunteer organization, and Rodley says the grassroots origins are part of the festival’s core identity. “We have people from all over the world that come to our festival, people from New York, people from Britain, Australia. The biggest compliments I get from these people is how community-centered it feels.” 

Focus magazine founder Ray Rico and friend celebrate Pride. (Photo: Courtesy Focus)

The Best of Times, the Worst of Times

Ray Rico started Focus magazine in 2015. “It was the year that marriage equality became legal, and we thought that there was a place, a space, and a need for a queer publication.” 

He says the last decade has been a time of tremendous change in the LGBTQ community. “We’ve gotten more resilient, I would say, than when we first launched with Focus. That era was a good time for us to identify others, maybe even seek out people who weren’t like us. I think that’s the melting pot glory of what we’ve got going on in Memphis. You might live on a street with a millionaire, and you might live on a street with somebody who’s just getting by. It’s just a mix of folks. When it comes to the LGBT spaces, 10 years ago, I started seeing groups collaborate more, and I started feeling more support from others, from allies, from corporations, and from government even. … I’ve seen things change, some of them in good ways and some in not so good ways. I’ve seen people come into Memphis and shake things up. I’ve seen people come into Memphis and F things up, and I’ve seen people come into Memphis and leave and then come back. 

“There’s more resilience. There’s more support from our collaborators in the community. So instead of working against each other, we’re working with each other. We’re recognizing that we don’t need to reinvent the wheel. If we have an idea, if there’s somebody over here doing something similar, we work with them to kind of build that up.” 

But this increased collaboration has come against a backdrop of increasingly aggressive actions by the Republican supermajority in the Tennessee Legislature, and the election of the most openly homophobic president in recent memory. Thanks to Elon Musk’s DOGE, federal grants for health organizations which provide health services the community depends on have been slashed precipitously. 

“On the health side, it’s gotten a little worse,” says Rico. “There are definitely some issues we’re faced with in Memphis. Our HIV rates are the worst — I think they’re number-two for new transmissions. Care for trans folks in Tennessee is terrible because of all the legislative attacks that have come on trans folks.

“For the community, I think there are moves being made, like executive orders, that are not necessarily enforced just yet, but they’re intended to shock and awe. Each day we wake up, we’re understanding what’s different and what are we going to get challenged with today. It gives the community uncertainty because we’re not sure if organizations, programs, housing, medications, if these things are going to be funded or not. And these things are saving people’s lives right now! So essentially, you’re talking about not saving your neighbor or your brother or your friend.

“I am really hurt by what’s going on because I’m seeing firsthand what some of these organizations are being dealt. And I know they’re having to make really tough decisions to eliminate photos, words, and likenesses of things. You can’t say specific things and still get government funding. 

“We’ve fought before, absolutely,” says Rico. “But we’re fighting so much harder now that it’s wearing us down. And I think that’s the intent.”

Krista Wright Thayer is one of those fighting back. She’s the advocacy chair for the Mid-South LGBT Chamber of Commerce, as well as a member of the Focus Mid-South Advisory Group. “I guess it started back when the governor took money away from Tennessee for HIV prevention, and that really fired me up. We went to Day on the Hill in Nashville to talk with the legislators, show them that they were wasting money by not giving money to HIV treatment and surveillance. We showed them how much money they were wasting because the diagnosis cost way more than the prevention. It was good conversations with a lot of legislators, and ever since I’ve been an advocate for those in Memphis whose voice isn’t always heard.”

In the wake of the Tennessee drag ban, Thayer says, “I helped organize a meeting with the [Memphis Police Department], as well as the sheriff’s office, … [Congressman] Steve Cohen, and the DA, just to see how is this being enforced. How do you know if someone is in drag? How are you going to check that? How are you going to enforce that? Don’t you have other things to worry about? Where are the resources going? All these executive orders from Trump, they have to be enacted locally. Are we using local resources? Let’s talk about the real things that are going on. They’re trying to enlist fear. All these executive orders have certain organizations having to change their website, scrubbing things off the website that refer to LGBT or even Hispanic culture! In one way, I understand they want to preserve their funding, but in another way, he’s just throwing things at the wall to see what sticks. You can say, no, he cannot do this. There are attorneys involved; there are legislations. And although the judges can’t move as fast as he’s moving with all these executive orders, how you fight back is resistance, right? 

“Another type of resistance is joy. We’re not going to be running around in fear. Fuck you. We’re going to be as resilient as we need to. We’re going to do what we need to do. And that’s not bowing down to this fake fascism.”

Thayer says MAGA’s attempts to whip up votes with transphobia are meant to distract. “As Laverne Cox said, people are worried about the wrong 1 percent. The transgender community is 1 percent, and that’s not the ones you need to be worried about. They’re not the ones keeping you from having good education, not the ones upping the charge on eggs and gas, when that’s the very thing [Trump] ran on saying you would not have to pay for those things! People are so far in, and you know what I’m talking about when it comes to his followers, they’re so far in, they still can’t see it. I want our community to know we don’t have to run scared. We’re going to be okay. And some people may disagree with me on this, but as much as they try to throw shade on us, our joy shines through so much more. Their jealousy of not being able to live out loud speaks volumes.”


The Mid-South Pride celebration attracts thousands of people from all walks of life to Robert Church Park in Downtown Memphis. (Photo: Kevin Reed | Courtesy Mid-South Pride Foundation, Inc.)

Meeting the Moment with Pride

“My mood is perseverance,” says Townsend. “This is not the first battle we’ve had. It won’t be the last. And, yes, we’ve come so far, but also we still have to continue to work for those who are going to come after us, and make sure that they continue to have a space where they feel heard and seen.” 

For Townsend, the reward for all the hard work it takes to put on a giant festival is intangible. “It’s a feeling when you can look out and see all of these varieties of people, men, women, him, her, them, however people identify. You can see the joy they are having just being in the park and feeling free.”

Rodley says safety is her biggest priority. “We hire our own private security team, and that’s who polices the park. We try to make everyone feel safe. It can feel dark sometimes, but we are going to try to bring that light, and that’s why we have a hundred percent no hate in the park, and we charge $3 so we can protect that.” 

On this momentous occasion, Rodley feels the weight of history. “It’s very climactic for me,” she says. “One thing I’ve learned living in the South is that history is so important, and hitting that milestone here and at this time, I feel, is very important because we who are a little older, we know that we have not had rights before, and we’ve had to work hard to get them. The younger generation kind of grew up with rights, so they’ve not really had that feeling of having to fight for them. So it’s kind of bridging that gap between us and bringing to light that we can still fight, we can still gain back.” 

“What’s important about Pride is, it brings that community back together,” says Rico. “That’s the important thing about Memphis. It’s a big small town. There’s a lot of folks here, but it’s also pretty close-knit. … It’s a celebration of folks who have stood before us, people who are not here anymore. People we’ve lost through violence, people we’ve lost through HIV. It’s a celebration of those folks, too.” 

For all of the changes and growth and setbacks, one thing has remained constant. “It is a fight for our rights,” Rico says. “It always has been.”