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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Dessert, Anyone?

For those who eat too much at restaurants and, heaven forbid, are too stuffed to look at the dessert menu, here are some that restaurants offer, along with fall specials.

Dory: “The desserts at Dory are in the spirit of our childhoods,” says executive chef/co-owner Dave Krog. “Our current six-course dessert is aerated peanut butter mousse, chocolate sponge, salted caramel, blackberry, and peanut dust.”

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen: “The fall pot de crème will be killer,” says general manager/beverage director Nick Talarico. “Spiced apples with an oat and walnut crumble. It’s like a crème brûlée and vanilla pudding.”

Kinfolk restaurant: “Bourbon pecan crème brûlée,” says chef/owner Cole Jeanes. “We toast the pecans before soaking them in heavy cream with a little orange zest. They steep overnight and, instead of granulated sugar, I use brown sugar. It’s rich, nutty, and super smooth. With a crunchy brûlée topped with candied pecans, there’s a great contrast in textures. Add a little smoked salt for another layer of flavor.”

Las Tortugas: “We do a piña colada flan, a traditional caramel flan that cooks in a water bath in the oven,” says chef/manager Jonathan Magallanes. “We then add roasted and fresh pineapple along with coconut shavings and crushed cashews, Mexican fresh cream, and powdered sugar.”

Acre: “I had an apple custard cake on the menu years ago,” says executive chef Andrew Adams. “The center was soft and custardy with bits of apples, and the top was a little crunchy and caramelized. This fall, I switched out the all-purpose flour with buckwheat. I steam the cake for the first 30 minutes and then put it in a high oven. I made the apples smaller, added cinnamon and cardamom and an oat top. The buckwheat adds a nutty flavor.”

The Beauty Shop Restaurant: Chef/owner Karen Carrier features an array of fall desserts — apple-caramel-almond babka from Love Bread Co., pistachio and fig babka, chocolate meringue pie, pecan pie with scoop of sweet potato gelato, lemon zest-sugar-butter crepe with a scoop of cinnamon Mexican chocolate chili gelato, and a dark chocolate crepe with pumpkin pie gelato.

Salt|Soy: “Chocolate miso chess pie with a sesame crust, Suntory Toki whipped cream, and sesame brittle,” says chef/owner Nick Scott. “It’s our East-meets-West take on chess pie. We started running it last fall and it became our house dessert.”

River Oaks Restaurant: “A lemon mousse with raspberries and caramelized whipped cream,” says general manager Colleen DePete. Another dessert: Chef/owner José Gutierrez will add “a poached pear with homemade vanilla ice cream, whipped cream, and dark chocolate ganache garnished with thin cookies tuile.”

Southern Social: “Praline hazelnut cheesecake with caramelized hazelnuts and a warm chocolate sauce,” says pastry chef Franck Oysel.

117 Prime: “Pumpkin Delight Ooey Gooey Bars,” says chef/owner Ryan Trimm. “A rich, buttery cake bottom with a pumpkin spice cream cheese marbled custard baked to perfection.”

Kelly English restaurants: “At Pantà, we’re offering a decadent chocolate hazelnut cup topped with raspberry Chantilly,” says pastry chef Inga Theeke. “Look for that to change to a pumpkin and chai combination later this month. We’ve also played with the presentation of our Mel i Mató and now offer Mel i Cannoli. Mel i Mató is a traditional Catalan dessert that features a loose cheese similar to ricotta covered in honey. We top our house-made ricotta with Bee 901 honey and toasted pistachios. All tucked inside a Neules cone, a Catalan cookie.”

Fino’s From the Hill: “Apple spice bars will be in the case later this week, and ghost meringues will make their appearance later this month.”

The Second Line: “Seasonal desserts are changing to a chocolate pecan pie and caramel apple cheesecake.”

Restaurant Iris: “Desserts here are definitely influenced by the season. Look for a pear tarte Tatin and a pumpkin cheesecake over gluten-free spice cake, among others.”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

My Favorite Burger …

Since it’s Burger Week and many Memphis restaurants are selling great burgers at a great price (see page 17 for details), we decided to ask a few local notables to tell us about their favorite burger. They gave us some very mouthwatering choices. Enjoy.

Fredric Koeppel, Writer

“Our favorite burger in town is the WJ Burger at Acre, a re-enactment of the original burger sold at Wally Joe restaurant that closed in 2007. Acre now offers these on Thursday nights. Beef dry-aged and ground in-house, confit tomato, roasted garlic mayo, truffle cheese, frisée on a house-baked horseradish bun — it’s just the best. Get it medium rare.”

The Office @ Uptown’s black bean burger

Jared “Jay B.” Boyd, Program Manager, WYXR

“My favorite? The black bean burger at The Office @ Uptown. I’m a new vegan, and having veggie options around town is helpful. With more Impossible and Beyond options popping up around town, this particular take on a black bean patty stands out for its taste and texture. Not quite like meat, but still flavorful enough to hold its own.”

LBOE garlic burger

Pat Mitchell-Worley, Executive Director, Stax Music Academy

“LBOE has a garlic burger. It’s no longer on the menu, but if you ask for it, they’ll make it. It has so much garlic, I can’t be around people after I eat it. But it is just divine. Not only is it flavorful, I love the smell of garlic. It’s just so relaxing. In another life, I would be a garlic farmer. Sometimes I get it as a turkey burger, too. And it’s consistently good.”

Marjorie Hass, President of Rhodes College

“I don’t eat hamburgers very often, but I am partial to the one served at Libro, the restaurant attached to Novel. A chance to browse at an actual brick-and-mortar bookstore is an increasingly rare treat. And then, to sit down to lunch over a new book and a delicious burger — perfectly cooked and covered in caramelized onions and melted cheese — makes for a perfect afternoon.”

Al Kapone

Al Kapone, Hip-Hop Artist

Al Kapone’s favorite hamburger is a toss-up between a Tops and a Dixie Queen cheeseburger. In both cases, he says, “There’s something about their cooked-to-order burgers. They both have that same almost diner burger thing about them. It’s the type burger you find in any mom-and-pop store that cooks burgers. And I want my onions grilled. Something about the grilled onion flavor I can’t explain. When they grill the onions, it gives a flavor the raw onions don’t give. I love that flavor. I think raw onions sometimes can be too strong.” And make sure and toast those buns. “If they toast the fresh bun and brush some butter on it as they toast it — oh, my God. I’m getting hungry. I want one right now.”

Mike McCarthy, Director, Sculptor, Preservationist

“I have to admit, my favorite burger is generally my most recent burger. Take last night, for instance. It was 9:30 p.m. and I was starving. Tops BBQ and Steak & Shake were closed, and the golden arches were as dark as burnt french fries. I found myself in the drive-through at Krystal on Poplar. I soon realized that I was having, perhaps not a favorite burger, but rather a most-ironic burger, a burger based in deep-rooted Memphis memories — yet no different than any other Krystal burger in any other American town. As I waited in line, I saw Krystal’s large poster advertising ‘The Hangover’ burger, which, naturally in these trying times, is now served 24-7.

“But I chose the No. 1 combo. I pulled into a parking space and began the time-honored process of getting shades of red and yellow all over my pants. I thought about how my parents would always eat at this particular Krystal when they would visit from Mississippi and how we process memories through physical shapes. But those dang Krystal marketing folks kept interrupting my thoughts with their class-struggle advertising: Each individual box containing my four burgers boasted the phrase ‘IF IT AIN’T BROKE …’ — which might really mean ‘If only we weren’t so bankrupt (in all meanings of the word), we could be eating somewhere else or enjoying a better life.’ If only Krystal restaurants looked as cool as they did in the 1950s, then I’d be feasting on Memphis history and I’d be doing it 24/7.”

Graham Winchester

Graham Winchester, Musician

Graham Winchester loves Memphis food as much as he loves Memphis music. His Instagram account has been his outlet for “Poor Man’s Food Reviews,” which he calls “30-second bursts of mania and sloppy eating. I love putting in my two cents about some food.”

Winchester won’t commit to naming an all-time winner but says his favorite burger “right now” is the B-Side Memphis Burger. “It’s new,” he says. “It’s kind of in that classic Soul Burger style, like Earnestine & Hazel’s, but it’s a little bit bigger. It’s a flat-top grilled burger. You get pickles and cheese and onions, and they give you mustard and mayonnaise on the side, so you can dabble with it as much as you want.

“It’s perfectly cooked, perfectly greasy so that the cheese and grease just kind of fill up the front of your mouth. It definitely reminds you of that Soul Burger flavor, but it’s really hardy. And it comes with fries, so you’re pretty fulfilled.”

Mark Greaney, Novelist

Memphis writer Mark Greaney (whose Bond-like Gray Man series of spy novels is now a staple on bookshelves everywhere), has two favorites: the house burger at Maximo’s on Broad for high-style days, and for everyday meals, the ever-popular Dyer’s burgers, famously marinated in their own ancient grease.

About the latter he says, “They are the perfect thickness, and the texture is amazing. (Anything fried is amazing!) They have an incredible beef flavor that blasts past the tanginess of the mustard and pickles.”

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Guess Where I’m Eating Contest 103

Yep, another popsicle!

The first person to correctly ID the dish and where I’m eating wins a fabulous prize. 

To enter, submit your answer to me via email at ellis@memphisflyer.com

The answer to GWIE 102 is Acre, and the winner is John Scruggs!

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

A Visit to Park + Cherry

The owners of Acre Restaurant signed a three-year lease to run the Dixon Gallery and Garden’s new café called Park + Cherry. It opened this Tuesday and everything on the menu has an average price range of $8-$10. There’s a selection of sandwiches, salads, snacks, sides, sweets and coffee.

The first sandwich I tried was the truffled pimento cheese ($8). The bread is super soft and airy. As for the pimento cheese, it’s different from others that I’ve tasted. I chalk that up to the fact that there’s actually preserved black truffles worked into it! The pimento cheese is light, fresh and simply put… delicious. It’s also a nice serving size.

For the healthy option, I tried the quinoa, pickle pear, arugula, and cranberry salad ($9). The quinoa is cooked just right. The pear and cranberries give a nice hint of sweetness to the salad while providing two totally different textures at the same time. If you want a fresh and light-tasting salad that will fill you up and has a touch of sweetness, this is for you.

Lastly I sampled one of the hot-pressed sandwiches. I went with the smoked beef brisket Reuben ($10.) It had Swiss, sauerkraut, and sweet red wine mustard. On the first bite you can taste the smokiness of the meat. The brisket is smoked to the point where it isn’t overwhelming and that allows the sauerkraut to kick in. It’s got a great crunch and a sweet pickled taste to it. The red wine mustard with the melted Swiss cheese seals the deal. If you want a juicy sandwich, you can’t go wrong with this one.