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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Pyramid (Vodka) Dream

Pyramid Vodka, the “grain to glass” distillery located just a stone’s throw from CC Blues Club on Thomas Street, uses Delta-grown corn and Memphis artesian water to produce its vodka, which won the platinum, or “best in class” award, at the 2015 Spirits International Prestige, an international consumer-tasting competition.

“These are superior ingredients,” CEO Alexander Folk told me in Pyramid’s tasting room one afternoon last week. “The Delta is the most fertile farmland in the world, and Memphis water is one of the best. We’re getting really pure flavors here.”

Corn is milled, cooked, and fermented in the 25,000-square-foot building, originally built to service the New Chicago neighborhood’s long-gone Firestone plant. “It was once an adhesive factory,” Folk explained. “This area is historically very industrial, and the building, with its 20-foot ceilings and floor drains, is perfect for us.”

Even the waste goes to use. During my visit to the distillery, farmer Tim Ammons of Oleo Acres in Stanton arrived to pick up the recycling — two tubs of mash that he will use to feed his pigs. Other farmers reuse the methane produced at the distillery to keep their greenhouses warm.

Out on the distillery floor, Carson Duffy and Jacob Reed walked me through the vodka-making process. First, corn is run through a gristmill three times — to be exact. Reed, the production manager, processes 30,000 pounds of corn every six weeks. After cooking the mash for six hours, yeast is added. Reed ferments “on the grain” instead of separating the starches from the liquid. It’s like using pasta water to flavor your sauce instead of water from the tap. “The longer the water sits in the grain, the more flavorful it is,” Reed says. From here, it’s all science: Starches break down into sugars, enyzmes are added, and the sugars are transformed into alcohol. Once cooled, everything is dumped into a feeder tank and pumped through a stripping column, where the alcohol is pulled from the mash.

The distilled alcohol is weighed, and Memphis water, stripped of chlorine and fluoride, is added to get the product to 80 proof. Finally, it’s filtered, 250 gallons at a time, through burnt coconut shells no fewer than five times.

Then all six staff members do a blind taste test. If everyone agrees it’s on target, it’s bottled and shipped off to market.

A brand-new still, designed, built, and installed last month by Montana-based Headframe Stills, brought the continuous distillation process to Pyramid. That means that instead of cooking in 500-gallon batches, Reed can cook two gallons per minute. Continuous distillation requires a smaller footprint than batch distillation, it’s more energy efficient, and it cuts the production time from six weeks to two weeks.

Previously, Reed had to monitor the process by smell and taste; now, he can track the boiling points of the unwanted “bottoms” and “heads,” and the valuable ethanol, which makes up 95 percent of Pyramid Vodka, via a computer screen. The old batch still, which will be sold, produced 5,000 cases of vodka a year. The new still has the capacity to produce 160,000 cases annually, which could launch Pyramid beyond the regional market.

You can find Pyramid Vodka at dozens of liquor stores and restaurants in Memphis, Nashville, Knoxville, Chattanooga, and across the state of Arkansas. Better yet, stop by the distillery yourself for a free tour. They’re offered Wednesday through Friday at 10 a.m., 11 a.m., noon, and at 1 p.m. on Saturdays. Tours run about 45 minutes and include a tasting for visitors over 21. For more information, go to pyramidvodka.com.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Now open: City and State and Pyramid Vodka

City and State is a shop full of things that demand to be touched. Waxed canvas bags and creamy porcelain bowls; Navajo blankets and end grain butcher blocks. Founder Lisa Toro says she planned it that way.

“We’ve gone so far into digital, but we need the tactile,” says Toro. “When you’re online, you’ve got four senses that you’re not using.”

Toro ought to know. In 2007, she co-founded Rocket Fuel, a Memphis-based web development and design firm. For almost their whole professional lives, she and Luis Toro, her husband and business partner, have been sitting in front of computers.

While we talk, Toro makes me a cup of coffee. City and State is half café, half dry-goods store. She’s using the pour-over method, which involves carefully weighing your ingredients and brewing by hand over a period of five minutes.

Folgers, it ain’t. But when she serves me a cup ($4) — presented on a silver tray with a pretty glass carafe — I suddenly don’t mind the wait. The coffee, a Colombian Tres Santos from Intelligentsia, is fragrant and well balanced. It’s naturally sweet, and if you squint, it kind of tastes like cranberries.

“I think we’re living through a shift in consumerism,” says Toro, blowing on her coffee to cool it. “Increasingly, it’s about craftsmanship. It’s about knowing who made this – where, with what, and how.”

City and State represents a new direction for the digitally inclined Toros. Both the name and logo are meant to evoke a frontier trading post, a place you go to get things you otherwise couldn’t. That lines up pretty well with City and State’s mission: to take artisan goods that are local to other cities and give them visibility here.

On the food side, that includes things like paleo chocolate bars from Hu Kitchen in New York and hand-crafted nut butters from Big Spoon Roasters in Durham, North Carolina. There are also local offerings like Memphis-based Shotwell Candy and Paper & Clay ceramics.

Although City and State plans to launch an e-commerce site next month, I recommend that you visit the store. The aesthetic is appealingly Instagrammable: spare and modern, littered with interesting trinkets, warmed by natural light. And anyway, you’ve got five senses — why not use them?

Justin Fox Burks

Pyramid Vodka: robust and smooth

Most people conceive of craft brewing and distilling as passion projects. They think of beer nerds in garages, boiling malt in smelly kettles. So it’s interesting that brothers Alexander and Winston Folk, scions of Folk’s Folly and founders of Pyramid Vodka, say they never set out to make booze.

They set out to start a business.

“We wanted to create jobs,” says Winston. “We wanted to do something that would bring young people back to the city and get them excited about living in Memphis.”

What drew them to vodka was the way it features fresh, local ingredients — things like field corn from Wilson, Arkansas, and fresh water from the Memphis Sand Aquifer. Because vodka is not barrel-aged or otherwise flavored, it allows the sweetness of the corn to come through in the finished product.

Last week, the Folks cut the ribbon on their production facility in North Memphis. In an emotional speech, Alexander acknowledged that getting here has been a long and difficult journey.

But the fledgling distillery is off to a promising start. Since its launch in November, Pyramid has gone from two full-time employees to five. It is currently carried by about 75 liquor stores and 100 bars and restaurants, including the Pyramid Vodka Studio in FedExForum.

The Folks credit their success to fresh ingredients and a craft distilling technique they learned from “an old moonshiner in Walnut, Mississippi.” The corn for Pyramid vodka is ground and fermented in-house. It is then distilled 51 times and filtered through at least 24 feet of activated charcoal.

You’ve heard of farm to table? Well, this is grain to glass. Pyramid turns out just 160 cases a week, and there’s a person involved in every step. In a moving demonstration, Winston showed the assembled crowd how a bottle gets labeled: A human being pulls a sticker off a sheet and carefully applies it.

So how does it taste? Really good, actually. Robust and smooth, with a hint of vanilla in the nose and a nice, clean finish. The kind of vodka that you could drink straight or with a splash of soda. Other people seemed to agree.

“In the beginning,” said Schuyler Dalton, who attended the ribbon cutting, “I wanted to support Pyramid because they’re local. But now I can support them because it tastes good. It tastes really expensive and nice.”