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Ann Barnes: Back in the Ladle

Ann Barnes says her sister, Susan Overton, used to ask her every morning, “What are you doing sitting in your blue chair?”

Overton was tired of watching Barnes sitting in the blue chair in the living room and working crossword puzzles.

The only blue her sister probably wanted to see was the bleu cheesesteak sandwich Barnes served at her Just for Lunch restaurant in Chickasaw Oaks.

The words struck home for Barnes, who had been retired from the restaurant and catering business for almost 10 years. Barnes, who felt like “an old racehorse out to pasture,” thought, “Well, hell. That’s what I am doing. Sitting in the blue chair.”

So, she decided to get back to work instead of “sitting here doing nothing.” 

She’s now owner of Corinne’s Very Special Catering, where she makes her signature dishes, including beef Wellington and homemade rolls, as well as new items, including her charcuterie displays and crawfish étouffée. Her business, named after her late mother Corinne Batson, is “a full-time big catering company” that she operates out of Memphis Kitchen Co-Op.

Born in Little Rock, Arkansas, Barnes moved to Memphis in 1967. She began doing cooking jobs “years and years ago in the ’70s for the people who would let me.”

One of them was her next door neighbor, who asked her to make something for a party. Barnes made coquilles Saint Jacques, which she still makes today. Her criteria? The food has to look pretty and taste good. “If it doesn’t look pretty and taste good, I wouldn’t serve it.”

Barnes got the idea to open her first restaurant after Overton opened her Very Special Tea Room in Little Rock, Arkansas. She took the menu items from her sister’s restaurant and opened Just for Lunch at 4730 Poplar in 1981.

One of Overton’s friends, who ate at Just for Lunch, told Overton, “Susan, somebody stole your restaurant. They’re serving your muffins. They’re using your china. Baskets with fresh flowers on the table.” 

“Legally, anybody else would have had to pay something. I had an easy-made blueprint. Tea room chicken salad, ham salad, egg and olive, aspic, rolls, tiny muffins, fancy desserts.”

And, she says, “They evolved into my recipes. But the core menu was my sister’s.”

Her first Just for Lunch restaurant was an immediate success. “We filled up every day. I was so grateful.”

She concurrently ran Just for Lunch Catering.

Barnes moved the Just for Lunch restaurant to 4720 Spottswood Avenue in 1999.

Finally, in 2008, she moved it to 3092 Poplar Avenue. “Right before the housing market collapse, I borrowed a ton of money and moved to Chickasaw Oaks.”

The restaurant at her new location wasn’t exactly like her previous Just for Lunch restaurants. “I kind of expanded it to a little more sophisticated menu. Like we had specials of the day.”

Items included the bleu cheesesteak sandwich, oysters Benedict, and Mediterranean or “lamb” burgers.

She closed the Just for Lunch in Chickasaw Oaks in 2016. “I was tired.”

And she closed her catering business. “Thirty-five years is a long time.”

Barnes catered her first job in about eight years after she got out of the blue chair. She contacted the person in charge of Feast on the Farm, the Agricenter International fundraiser held last August, and said, “I’m a caterer. How do I participate?”

They asked her what she wanted to do. Barnes replied, “Cucumber soup with toasted almonds and cheese biscuits.”

When Barnes was told, “Would it throw you if I told you it was for 600 people?”, she said she had cooked for 4,000 people.

She followed that event with a catering job for the 30th anniversary of The Cadre, which is “such a beautiful old building. Banks had such fabulous lobbies. Now it’s an event center and it has been for 30 years. I’d done one of the first events there. Not the first.”

Whether it’s classic party fare or something unusual such as blackened salmon with apricot glaze or rum cream pie with Myer’s dark rum, Barnes helps customers plan the perfect menu for their occasions.

She makes everything from “upscale wedding/bar and bat mitzvah special occasion food” to “something as small as a family reunion. From soup to nuts. I’d say fried chicken to caviar.”

Barnes is happy to be back. “I want to make people happy with wonderful food. And that’s magical to me. That’s my goal. And I can. And I will.”  

To reach Barnes, call 901-489-7812 or go to corinnesveryspecialcatering.com.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Now Showing

Two weeks ago, the Majestic Grille on South Main celebrated its second anniversary with the unveiling of an 18-foot movie screen in the main dining area. It’s a fitting addition to the restaurant, which was the site of the Majestic No. 1 Theatre from 1913 to 1936. Also new is the Innovators Room for art exhibitions and special events.

“We wanted to get involved in the arts in Memphis and make our restaurant available to local artists and arts organizations. We just weren’t sure when that would happen,” says Deni Reilly, who owns the Majestic with her husband and the restaurant’s chef, Patrick.

“What we are trying to do has three components: movies, performing arts, and visual arts,” Reilly says.

According to Reilly, the screen is mounted in almost the exact place as the original Majestic’s screen and could be the largest screen outside a movie theater in Memphis. Silent films currently are being shown, but the screen also can be used for presentations and televised events.

“Next year, when Memphis plays in the NCAA tournament and wins, our guests can watch the game here,” Reilly says.

In addition, the restaurant has partnered with local organizations to promote their performances.

“If Ballet Memphis does Carmen, for example, we would have a special event at the restaurant during which some of the dancers could perform excerpts from the ballet,” Reilly says. “We also want to have a regular jazz night, but I’m still working on putting together a calendar.”

The Innovators Room includes an art gallery that will host six exhibitions per year. The room also can accommodate between 25 and 40 people for private functions.

“We are excited about creating another exhibition space in Memphis,” Reilly says. “We don’t ask for any commission, and audio or video equipment for business meetings is available free of charge, as well.”

The current exhibition shows photographs by Gary Kessel, but Reilly encourages all artists to inquire about the space.

“This is really about promoting art, and we do want to show a variety of works by a variety of artists,” she says.

The Majestic Grille, 145 S. Main (522-8555, arts@majesticgrille.com)

Just for Lunch is an “old-new” restaurant that recently opened at Chickasaw Oaks Plaza in the space vacated by Elfo’s.

“Just for Lunch came before Just Catering, but people who haven’t been in Memphis for the past 27 years might not know that,” says Ann Barnes, the force and soul behind both businesses.

Barnes, originally from Little Rock, “stole” the concept for the eatery, which opened at 4730 Poplar in 1981, from her sister, Susan.

“My sister owned the Very Special Tea Room in Little Rock, and when I was looking for something to do when my son was 9 years old, I thought I can do something like that,” Barnes remembers.

Looking back, Barnes laughs about her naïveté. She recalls being on the phone with her sister, asking questions and getting tips on how to run a restaurant.

“When we first started I was a little bit like the newlywed who calls her mom on Thanksgiving to find out how to cook a turkey,” Barnes says. “Only I was calling my sister to find out how to run a restaurant.”

In 1986, Just for Lunch moved into Audubon Place next to the Williams-Sonoma outlet store and remained there until 1997, when Barnes decided to close the restaurant and focus on Just Catering.

“Our customers were really sad when we closed Just for Lunch, and not a day has gone by when people didn’t ask me to reopen,” Barnes says. “So when my landlord told me about this opportunity, I didn’t hesitate.”

Just for Lunch is a comfortable neighborhood lunch spot. The walls and tablecloths are salmon-colored, and artwork from neighboring galleries is on display throughout the restaurant. The upstairs dining room can be booked for special events.

The menu is straightforward lunch fare, reminiscent of tearooms. Classics include chicken salad, albacore tuna salad, pimento cheese, egg-and-olive, and ham salad served on homemade wheat bread. The salad selection is substantial and includes Southern chopped salad, Mediterranean salad, pasta salad with Brie, and the Just for Lunch club salad, among others. Soups and desserts are also available.

Just for Lunch is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

Just for Lunch, 3092 Poplar, Suite 11 (323-3287)