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New Arcade Plans to Bring Retro Feeling to Cooper-Young

Source: Nerd Alert Facebook

A new arcade venture is set to open in Cooper-Young this weekend, bringing a vintage feel to the area. The arcade, called Nerd Alert, will house classic ’80s arcade machines, nostalgia and retro horror memorabilia, as well as oddball and gag gifts.

Nerd Alert is run by Melissa and Tyler Oswald. The couple, who in the past operated a similar venture in Morris, Illinois, called CLUTTER, relocated to Memphis earlier this year with the purpose of bringing a more nostalgic feel to the city. Since late July, the couple has been hard at work remodeling and renovating their shop.

In line with CDC guidelines, all arcade cabinets have been spaced out to adhere to social distancing policies, and masks are required for entry. They are also asking that all patrons take advantage of sanitizing stations placed throughout the shop.

Nerd Alert will celebrate their opening day on September 26th. They are located at 1061 S. Cooper Street.

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Paranormal workshop Saturday

When word got out that the Preferencia Cafe at 546 South Main in downtown Memphis was operating as a front for bootleggers, patrolman Edward L. Broadfoot was dispatched to investigate. Broadfoot and his partner visited the restaurant on February 23, 1918, where they spied a trio of suspicious men sitting near the back and what appeared to be a suitcase full of hooch on the floor. As Broadfoot approached the table to question the suspects, one man stood up and opened fire. Broadfoot’s backup returned fire, but it was too late to save Broadfoot. Two of the suspects, including the gunman, escaped and were never knowingly apprehended.

Edward L. Broadfoot

Ghost hunters and ghost-hunting enthusiasts will meet at the Arcade Restaurant at 8 p.m. on Saturday, August 15th, where Broadfoot’s case is being opened by the paranormal investigators of Expedition Unknown. Following a workshop covering the basics of paranormal investigation, guests will be invited to bring their curiosity, as well as their cameras, flashlights, and recording equipment into the basement of a nearby gallery where Broadfoot was gunned down. The party will then proceed across the street to Earnestine & Hazel’s to hear stories about the former brothel’s dark side.

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Cover Feature News

Trolley Trials

Something’s missing on Main Street.

Music and the smell of food waft over the Main Street mall’s lunchtime crowd. Office workers mill up and down the brick sidewalks, like always. A sign reads: “Pedestrians Yield To Trolley,” but for the past few months, the only traffic along the mall has been horse-drawn tourist carriages or the golf cart delivering Aldo’s Pizza Pies. 

Gone is the familiar rumble of Memphis’ vintage trolley cars — the lumbering vehicles that warned pedestrians to get out of the way with a friendly (or unfriendly) toot or ding. The void is unmistakeable, like a missing tooth. 

“Fire at any given moment … “

Two fires — both on the Madison Line — caused a lengthy shutdown of the Memphis trolleys. Trolley 452 caught fire last November 4th on the I-240 overpass just west of Bellevue. Trolley 553 caught fire on April 7th on the Danny Thomas overpass bridge. They were hauled back to the Main Street trolley barn, and the cause of the fires was investigated. Both were burned beyond repair. 

Trolley service on the Madison Line was suspended after the April fire. The entire trolley system was shut down on June 11th. That decision came after a a review of the system by industry experts who said unless several corrective actions were taken, “fires will happen again.” Furthermore, it was conveyed to Memphis Area Transit Authority (MATA) management that there could be trolleys currently operating on the lines that “could catch fire at any given moment.” 

Green hybrid buses have since replaced the trolleys. They run the same routes, except for the Main Street Mall and parts of the Riverfront Loop. Bus ridership is rising, officials say, but lots of Memphians want the trolleys back. 

“Disturbing” and “Below Average”

According to an independent report by the American Public Transportation Association (APTA), a Washington, D.C.-based industry group, there are two answers to the question: Why did the trolleys catch fire? 

One is physical, sparks turned to flames when a power surge hit a faulty electrical system. The other is systemic, years of shoddy maintenance procedures and safety processes had become engrained at MATA. 

MATA officials asked the group for an outsider’s look at the trolley trouble in Memphis. The response it got was quite technical and also quite harsh.

The trolley system was governed by “deferred, incomplete, or incorrect practices.” This brought an “environment of higher risk … resulting in an escalation in the number of incidents and accidents.” The system, according the APTA report, made for unreliable trolleys and, therefore, unreliable trolley schedules. MATA’s practices, the report says, were below the average of “today’s street railway industry.”

There was no person at MATA accredited to train trolley operators or maintainers, the report says. There was no safety manager. Several maintenance tasks could only be done by one person. Scant training records existed to show who had received training on what equipment. 

“There appears to be a lack of oversight by management staff to ensure written procedures are being followed,” the APTA report says. 

Oil covered several areas of “the pit,” where the trolleys were repaired, making it slick and dangerous. Worn-out trolley parts were scattered around the trolley maintenance facility on Main Street.  

“There are little or no records on repairs done to the cars,” the report said. 

The records that did exist showed 43 defects on Trolley 553 in the three months before it caught fire in April. Twenty-nine defects were recorded on trolley Number 452 in the three months before it caught fire in November.

There were no manuals on how to maintain the cars’ electrical apparatuses or the air systems. The maintenance staff said they didn’t know how or where to get them.

“Overall, the panel found this to be disturbing,” the report says.

MATA staff interviewed by the panel said they experienced several flashovers, or electrical spark-ups, each year on the trolleys, including one “big” flashover each year. “It would appear that no additional training was provided to the maintenance staff after the fires.”

“This means something to me.”

Ron Garrison, who has led transit systems in

St. Louis; Tallahassee, Florida; and the Washington, D.C. area, was hired as the director of MATA in July. 

His love of trolleys began early, he says, as he rode them growing up in St. Louis. Garrison says the trolleys are important to the vitality of Memphis business as a mobility tool and to tourism as a part of the city’s charm. Garrison says he’s working hard to get the trolleys back on track.

At 9 a.m., it’s almost lunchtime for Garrison. Getting to work early has been part of his routine here. He says he’s usually at work by 3:30 a.m. and jokes that he’s accidentally scared some of the bus mechanics on those early mornings. MATA’s first bus leaves at around 

4:45 a.m., and Garrison wants to be on it, because that’s where the customers are.

“You go talk to them,” Garrison says. “You get on the bus and you ride with them.” 

Garrison told members of the Downtown Memphis Commission the same thing last month, when asked how he would get feedback from the MATA-riding public. 

He then got some laughs when he told the board that he’d have to leave the meeting early because the Memphis Bus Riders Union was picketing a MATA station. The laughs were quickly doused when he told them that enlisting the union’s help as a focus group was another way he’d develop MATA’s future.

Garrison is buttoned-up but casual, comfortable in a suit and tie but easy with a joke. He’s not afraid to admit to city leaders or a scrum of reporters when he does not know the answer to a question. 

He styles himself a “pretty easy-going guy” but also notes that “sometimes you gotta get tough, like in the Navy.” Garrison received the Naval Achievement Medal for his 10 years of service that ended with him as the head of the HFDF Division of U.S. Naval Intelligence. 

After a few years running his own St. Louis insurance company, Garrison started a career in mass transit in 1990 with the St. Louis Metro. Three transit systems and 24 years later, he finds himself in Memphis.

Garrison completely redesigned bus routes in Tallahassee, decentralizing the old hub-and-spoke system there, which made for shorter wait times, more bus routes, and easier transit around the city.

Tallahassee’s StarMetro system won the American Planning Association’s 2013 award for excellence in public transportation. Upon his resignation from the system in 2013, the editorial board of the daily Tallahassee Democrat said of Garrison’s tenure: “… the system works. The city can offer thanks to Mr. Garrison and claim its award with pride.”

Garrison says his appreciation for mass transit began at young age. His grandmother couldn’t walk and got around using one of the first electric wheelchairs. At that time, Garrison recounts, there was no para-transit. To go someplace, you had to call an ambulance.

“I say that to you, because this means something to me,” he says. “I’m not doing this for fun. I’m doing this because I want to do the right thing. I came here because I can feel that this city is changing and doing the right thing.”

Streetcar Desires

Vintage trolley cars clattering along old rail lines through the oldest parts of Memphis may seem like some kind of nostalgia-fueled pet project. But, ironically, the city’s trolley system puts Memphis years ahead of many other major cities in the U.S. 

Streetcar projects are currently underway in Atlanta; Seattle; Milwaukee; Detroit; Cincinnati; Los Angeles; Portland, Oregon; Kansas City, Missouri; Tempe, Arizona; Arlington, Virginia; and Charlotte, North Carolina.

As city cores come back to life across the U.S., downtown residents want to be able to walk, bike, and ride public transportation, and they want to live around others who want the same things. They want an authentic and progressive urban lifestyle.

“Streetcars do more than simply improve mobility,” says the website for the Milwaukee Streetcar Project. “By promoting development, raising property values, attracting businesses, and helping to define our contemporary city, streetcars benefit everyone. Streetcars add vitality to an urban setting, increasing commerce and activity around every one of the fixed stations and stops.”

Charlotte’s project is charged with helping to create “a transit-focused and pedestrian-oriented center city.” Tempe says its streetcar project will “increase mobility, strengthen existing neighborhoods and create sustainable development.” Atlanta wants a system that “links communities, improves mobility by enhancing transit access and options, supports projected growth, promotes economic development and encourages strategies to develop livable communities.”

So far, Portland’s streetcar project has led to 140 real estate projects worth $3.5 billion. According to city statistics, property values there rose by 50 percent. After streetcars began running in Seattle, the city saw 3.3 million square feet of new development.   

A major difference between many of these projects and the Memphis trolley system are the cars themselves. Most of the Memphis trolleys were built around the 1920s. They are mobile pieces of antique furniture — worn wooden artwork on heavy steel wheels. In contrast, the Atlanta cars are fast (up to 50 miles per hour) and sleek. Similar cars are being used in Los Angeles, Tempe, and Seattle.

The Unpromised Future

So when will Memphis’ trolleys come back? Garrison isn’t making any promises about it, but three teams of rail and safety experts converged in Memphis last week for another assessment of the trolley system. Once they’re finished, a new system plan for the city will be revealed, possibly as early as November. Presumably, a timeline for renewed trolley service will be part of the plan.

In the meantime, Garrison and MATA officials are working to reimagine and build the future of the trolley system. He envisions a more efficient system. He knows that the trolleys rarely ran on time, which was the top complaint from locals.

MATA is also implementing an “intelligent” transportation system that will give real-time information on buses and trolleys. By December, MATA is expected to launch a website and a mobile app that will show customers exactly where its vehicles are and when they’ll arrive. 

As for the trolleys, another major factor in on-time performance is to keep them from breaking down so often. 

“We want our miles, or our hours, between breakdowns to be, and I’m not exaggerating here, at least 20 times better than what it is now,” Garrison says. “I know if we don’t do that, that’ll be the first thing on people’s minds.”

Garrison says maintenance and safety processes will also be tightened up, adding that a job posting for a dedicated trolley safety manager is forthcoming. 

When the trolleys first come back, it won’t be with the city’s whole fleet of 17. Seven cars — the bigger ones made in Australia — will be the first to roll down Main. “You can get more folks on them,” Garrison says. The rest of the cars and routes will be added later, he says.

The price tag for the trolley fix has been cited at between $6 million and $36 million, a huge gap. The estimates were done before Garrison was hired. He says the higher figure probably includes some new equipment and facility upgrades. 

The figure definitely includes new trolley cars, and they’re not cheap. Vintage trolley cars can cost as much as $1.3 million each and MATA would have to buy 17 of them to replace what it has now.  

Does MATA need new trolleys? Garrison says it’s a possibility and “one of the first things I looked into.” But he says buying new trolleys would require a “community conversation” that could include considering a switch to the kinds of modern streetcars running in other parts of the country. But Garrison is quick to show that he understands why the old trolleys are important.

“The historic trolleys are more open-air; they’re nostalgic,” he says. “They have a certain sound that is romantic and takes people back to another time. I know many people come just to see the trolleys.”

With any luck, they’ll be able to see them again in the near future.

Trolley Stopped

South Main business owners not happy about lack of trolleys.

With the trolleys having been gone a full six months, many South Main business owners says they are seeing their sales decline, mainly due to a lack of tourists. 

“For the past four years that I’ve owned a business on South Main, tourists from all over the world would ride the River Loop Trolley, not even knowing that our district was down here,” says Anna Avant, owner of Hoot + Louise. 

“They would see the district and stop and shop and eat and look around, because the trolleys introduced them to our neighborhood. You just see less traffic down here now, and I can tell you that not one person has gotten off one of those green buses and come into my store.”

Lisa Brumleve, manager of business recruitment and retention at the Downtown Memphis Commission says the lack of trolleys has caused a drop in sales for some South Main businesses. “A few of the retailers in South Main have received grants from the Downtown Memphis Commission, so, they have to send me — twice a year — financial statements, and we’re looking at about 20 percent down [from one year to the next],” Brumleve says.

Not only are business owners upset about the lack of tourists in the area, store owners like Avant worry that the longer the trolleys are away, the less of an issue it will be to the entire city.

MATA has held various meetings to inform the public on the status of the streetcars. Even after the American Public Transportation Association report was released stating that MATA had failed to properly maintain the trolleys, business owners were hopeful that one or two trolleys could still serve the South Main District.

“There was a town meeting that MATA held when they first shut down the trolleys, and most business owners said they felt good leaving the meeting that one or two trolleys might soon be back,” Avant says. “I didn’t know that the trolleys weren’t coming back this year until I read an article last week. I have not personally heard from anyone at MATA, and I don’t expect them to keep in contact with me because I expect them to be working on the trolleys. But it seems like the more time goes by, the more likely it is that people will forget about the trolleys. But I can tell you that no one down here [on South Main] is forgetting.” 

While there are many businesses on South Main that don’t rely on tourists, the exposure the trolleys created helped business. Sarah Worden, owner of the jewelry store Charlotte Ehinger-Schwarz, says the area is more dependent on the trolleys than people might realize.

“My business has been here for 11 years, and my customers have been keeping my business alive during that time, but no one wants to just survive,” Worden says. “Having those tourists come in creates more exposure, and it’s that little extra business that helps you get ahead. As a business owner you can’t ever rely on one segment like tourism, but it sure helps when it’s there. I don’t know that if I have a down year I could blame it exclusively on the trolleys, but I know that because they are gone that this will probably not be a growth year for my business.”

South Main Association President Brian Douglas says he’s confident that the neighborhood will continue to grow, citing three businesses that have opened since the trolleys stopped running in April. But Douglas admits that the trolleys were a good way to show off South Main.

“The trolley is iconic in the way that it draws people to this area — something that we just aren’t seeing with those green buses,” Douglas says. “Before the city started construction on the Chisca Hotel, people would get to that area and not want to go any farther. If they hopped on the trolley, they didn’t really have a choice, and once they got to South Main they realized that this area had a lot going on. 

“Obviously we all want the trolleys back yesterday, and I think MATA does, as well, because that’s more revenue that they could be generating,” Douglas says. “Now that we know what went wrong, all we can do is hope to get it right this time. No one wants them to rush the trolleys back into service only to have another fire or something that causes the trolleys to stop altogether because people are afraid to get on them.”

Still, South Main business owners feel an integral part of their neighborhood is missing. 

“Would I want to leave this area if the trolleys don’t come back? Of course not. I love South Main and downtown, but if they don’t come back, it’s very possible that I would leave this area,” Avant says.

“We are getting into what is normally our busiest time of the year, and it’s just disappointing. We have staples down here that make the neighborhood what it is. There is the Arcade, the Civil Rights Museum, and Ernestine and Hazels — and the trolleys were what tied all of those things together.”

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$outh Main

Hop a trolley along South Main Street and you’ll take a trip into the past and the future. Hidden behind chain-link fencing and the fronts of antique buildings, money and energy are being pumped into the South Main district like nowhere else in Memphis. Construction is underway up, down, and around South Main, in projects large and small.

On the north end of the district, near Beale Street, a dirt patch is the promised home of The Orpheum’s Centre for Performing Arts. Down at the south end, the South Junction apartment complex is nearing completion. In between, projects valued at nearly $100 million are underway or recently completed. 

Most of the projects are being built using the area’s large stock of existing buildings, many abandoned a generation ago. They’re being lovingly refurbished and repurposed by companies and developers who know South Main’s authenticity is the core of its charm. 

“You know, we’re recycling an entire abandoned neighborhood,” says Henry Turley, founder and CEO of Henry Turley Company. “(South Main) was industrial. Then it was nothing. So, it’s the ultimate in recycling, when you take the whole neighborhood and bring it back to vibrancy.”

Justin Fox Burks

The Arcade

South Main’s Four Eras

Paul Morris, president of the Downtown Memphis Commission sees South Main’s history in four clear eras:

Era I — The district used to be in a separate city, a Memphis suburb called South Memphis. Rich folks lived there in single-family homes and mansions in the early 1800s, Morris says. The city merged with Memphis in 1850, and the area remained largely residential. 

Era II — The trains came in the early 1900s. Union Station opened in 1912 and Central Station opened in 1914. They brought as many as 50 passenger trains a day, Morris says, with hundreds of passengers. The single-family homes and mansions were torn down and replaced by factories, warehouses, hotels, and storefronts. These are the buildings that have remained and are the bones for the new construction underway.

Era III — Rail traffic died. With few passengers and no commerce, South Main businesses dried up. By the 1950s and 1960s, the district was in decline. The assassination of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. in the district’s Lorraine Motel in 1968 formalized its demise.

“The neighborhood was so totally and completely abandoned that nobody even cared enough to knock the buildings down and redevelop,” Morris says. “They just left them there and abandoned them. That’s good news, though, because this neighborhood today thrives on the fact that we’ve got a lot of the same buildings and the architecture that existed in the early 1900s.” 

Era IV — Artists discovered those abandoned buildings in the early 1980s and South Main’s fourth era began, Morris says. Then Hollywood found the district in the 1990s and all the old buildings became a stopped-in-time backdrop for everything from Walk the Line to Hustle and Flow. “All you have to do is change out the automobiles,” Morris says.

The artists and their galleries brought a new momentum, a new reason to visit the area, and South Main was dubbed an “arts district.” That momentum spread. The National Civil Rights Museum opened at the Lorraine Motel in 1991. The trolley line opened in 1993. Central Station was redeveloped into apartments in 1999.

Today, 2,500 people live in the South Main area. The average age of residents is over 45. Property values have grown from $270 million in 2005 to $460 million. South Main is home to everything from Emerge Memphis, a technology incubator, to The Blues Foundation. “South Main is not just one thing,” says Kimberly Taylor, owner of K’PreSha, a South Main clothing boutique. “It’s a collective of things. It’s boutiques. It’s restaurants and art galleries. It’s bars, The Orpheum, and the Civil Rights Museum. It’s the compilation of all these things that just make for a great neighborhood.”

Justin Fox Burks

Future site of The Orpheum’s Centre for Performing Arts

What’s Coming Next?

Here are some of the bigger projects that will further transform the South Main district: 

The Orpheum Theatre’s Centre for Performing Arts

When it’s completed next year, the two-story building will undoubtedly be the most modern-looking structure in the district. The Centre’s design sports a ground-to-roof glass facade and curves and angles in equal measure. 

The building will be the new home for The Orpheum’s 19 education programs that cover students from pre-school to college. It will have classrooms and a rehearsal stage the same size as The Orpheum’s, so productions can be easily moved from one to the other. The program served 66,000 students last year, and Pat Halloran, The Orpheum’s president and CEO, said the space is necessary.

“You’ve heard the adage ‘Build it, they will come.’ This is the reverse of that,” Halloran says. “We have the audience. We don’t have the building. But we’re creating it.”

The Chisca Hotel

Crews are hard at work inside the long-vacant Chisca Hotel. Behind the chain-link fence outside, workers are cleaning up the enormous space inside.

It’s being prepared for construction crews to begin a massive renovation project that will transform what became a behemoth eyesore into a modern apartment building with retail space on the ground floor.

Project officials say the new Chisca will bring new residents to South Main and will also help connect the district to the Downtown core. 

But for many, the new Chisca will finally be a proper place to honor the history that happened there.

Dewey Phillips broadcast his “Red, Hot, and Blue” radio show from the Chisca, and in 1954 he played Elvis Presley’s “That’s All Right Mama.” It was the first time Presley’s music was broadcast and, some say, the first time rock-and-roll was played on the radio.

“I heard one tourist remark, ‘If we had this in our town, we’d never let it look like this,'” Morris says. “This would be the center of our town. It would be the main thing.”

Main Street to Main Street Multi-Modal Connector Project 

This project will connect pedestrians and bicyclists from Main Street Memphis to Broadway Avenue in West Memphis, Arkansas, which is that city’s “Main Street.”

The project has brought construction crews to Main Street, North and South. They are tearing up and replacing old sidewalks, curbs, and gutters. The plan is to leave behind a more inviting walking and biking space for tourists, locals, runners, and bikers.

Crews will then turn the old roadbed of the Harahan Bridge into a wide, open path for pedestrians and bikers to cross the Mississippi River.

“When that bridge opens up, that’s when the floodgates will open,” says Daniel Duckworth, owner of South Main’s Midtown Bike Company. “That’s why I’m here.”

Duckworth moved his bike shop from Overton Square to South Main six years ago. The talk back then was to somehow open up the Harahan Bridge to bikers, and Duckworth wanted to be there when it did. “I just didn’t know it was going to take this long,” he says.

Once the bridge is open, Duckworth says he’ll see new revenues from renting bikes to people wanting to ride the route. His shop already attracts many touring cyclists, but the Main to Main project will literally put him on the map of a growing number of bike routes in Arkansas and Mississippi.    

The project is estimated to be completed by October 2015.

Justin Fox Burks

National Civil Rights Museum

National Civil Rights Museum

Chains were broken and doves were released in April to mark the opening of the newly updated National Civil Rights Museum. 

The museum now contains new, tech-fueled exhibits that can transport visitors to the cramped quarters of a slave ship or put them in the courtroom during the Supreme Court’s landmark Brown v. Board of Education decision. They can sing along with protestors and listen to the poetry and music from the Black Pride/Black Power era of the 1960s-1970s.

The museum also retained its iconic exhibits: the Montgomery Bus, the sit-in counter, the Freedom Rides bus, and the Memphis Sanitation Truck. 

The museum attracts about 200,000 visitors to South Main each year and the renovations are expected to bring even more. 

Central Station

New development is on the way for Central Station, according to Turley.

His company and Community Capital were hired by the Memphis Area Transit Authority (MATA) to begin the next stage of development for the apartment and office complex. Turley says he’s not sure yet what that will look like.

“When people ask me what we’re trying to do, I say we’re trying to make Central Station central once again,” Turley says. “It should be a dynamic anchor for the South Main neighborhood, and it’s just not behaving that way now, and we’d like to improve it.”

Plans for the station won’t be firmed up until at least the end of the year, Turley says.

Justin Fox Burks

South Main Artspace Lofts have moved into the former United Warehouse at 138 St. Paul.

Residential Developments

Turley’s 300-unit South Junction is, indeed, the largest single residential development around South Main. But it’s far from the only one. ArtSpace Lofts will have 44 live/work spaces. The Cabinet Shop Apartments will have 25. Printer’s Alley Annex will have 22. 

In all, the new developments are expected to bring 1,000 new residents to South Main. This fact gives hope to K’PreSha owner Taylor, who says retail in South Main struggles during daytime hours, unless there’s a special event.

“I think if everyone down here can sustain themselves over the next two years, then I think South Main will definitely be where it’s at,” Taylor says. “I think the increase in residents will help us get more local traffic. All the development in general will just bring more people.”

Justin Fox Burks

“Buffalo Mural”

Smaller Developments

Construction work is underway on a number of smaller projects up and down South Main Street.

Cafe Pontotoc is planned for the space formerly occupied by Carrot. A new bar concept is coming to the former Cafe Soul space at 492 S. Main. The Book Juggler bookstore opened late last year at 548 S. Main.

An updated Five Spot and another new restaurant are coming soon to the space behind Earnestine & Hazel’s, according to building owner and Memphis restaurateur, Bud Chittom. No changes are planned for Earnestine & Hazel’s, Chittom says. He’s also planning to build a youth hostel in the two-story building behind the new restaurants.

Two new retail clothing concepts are coming from the team that brought the Crazy Beautiful pop-up shop to 387 South Main over the holidays. Eryka Smith and Chad West will open a new store, Stock and Bell, in the old pop-up shop space. They’re also renovating the former Russian Cultural Center space at 509 S. Main for a rockabilly-inspired vintage shop called Red Velvet. 

Perhaps the smallest development in South Main is the new bocce ball court in the once-vacant lot at Main and Talbot. The Downtown Memphis Commission built the court for around $1,000, and officials hope it will help draw future development to the space. People can play for free. Balls are available at South Of Beale and The Green Beetle in exchange for a credit card or driver’s license.

A new park and dog park are being discussed for an undisclosed location in South Main. Also, locals are working with property owners to convert the empty space behind the iconic “Buffalo Mural” into a performing arts area. 

Finally, the district got an identity upgrade this year with a new logo, a new visitor’s guide, and new banners touting the area’s “legendary” status. Some of those legends can be heard on a new self-guided walking tour. Visitors can use their smart phones to scan QR codes on some buildings that will give them web-hosted tales of Machine Gun Kelly or the Whistle Brand soft drink company.

Why Now?

Chittom says South Main is still riding the wave of energy created by the folks who got there early on, especially Henry Turley, he says.  

“The synergy in South Main is just remarkable right now,” Chittom says. “It was predicated on Henry. He did this. A lot of people played a role but not as big as Henry played.”

Turley began developing property in South Main after the initial wave of artists and others put down roots there. He started the South Bluffs development in 1991 after he’d finished the River Bluffs development. Turley credits those who came before him.

“They added more energy than I did,” he says. “I added more bulk, but they really got it going.”

South Main Association President Brian Douglas said the original galleries attracted foot traffic, which attracted bars and restaurants. This made the area viable for other businesses that moved in: public relations firms, architecture firms, and financial advisory firms, like his branch of Ameriprise Financial.

“It hasn’t been an increase in a single area,” Williams says. “It’s kind of been a mix of all of the infrastructure things you need to make a neighborhood great, from restaurants and bars and work, and now we’re adding housing again.”

Most agree the growth of South Main has been gradual, organic, unforced, the result of a large, loose network of residents, business owners, developers, and city officials, unlike Overton Square or the Pinch District, which have grown or will grow with the help of a single major developer. 

A Memphis Original

South Main’s supporters say much of the area’s success is due to an intangible factor — its authenticity.

Sharon Stanley, an associate professor of political science at the University of Memphis, moved to South Main six years ago, after living briefly in the Downtown core. Yes, rent was cheaper in South Main, but she says what kept her there was something deeper. Downtown felt like a “show piece with a little artificial Memphis [in it] for tourists or something.” South Main was different, she says.

“It also just has — and this is probably the most overused word for anyone describing what they like about a city or a neighborhood — but I do feel like the places here have a certain character that other places are lacking, especially in the newer developments in Memphis,” Stanley says. “I feel like those could be anywhere. But Earnestine & Hazel’s can only really be Earnestine & Hazel’s.”

A new study by the National Trust for Historic Preservation (NTHP) spells this out. City dwellers these days, especially younger residents, like old buildings. They want to live in them, walk around them, and socialize in them. Blocks of old buildings, the study showed, provide affordable spaces for entrepreneurs to open new restaurants, bars, and businesses. They are all looking for authenticity and are finding it in Washington, D.C.’s H Street Corridor, San Francisco’s Hayes Valley neighborhood — and South Main in Memphis. These areas perform better economically, socially, and environmentally than those with larger, newer buildings. 

“That’s really one of the things that made South Main successful,” Paul Morris says. “It avoided what happened in many downtowns across America where people came in and wiped all the buildings away and started afresh to get rid of the urban blight.”

Jusint Fox Burks

Trolley goers enjoying the ride

Get on the Trolley 

Memphis and South Main are well ahead of the curve of one urban trend: Cities across the country are spending hundreds of millions of dollars to begin streetcar projects. 

Tucson has spent $196 million on its 3.9-mile Sun Link Streetcar project that will link its downtown and the University of Arizona. Washington, D.C., will open its $135 million, 2.4-mile H Street streetcar project this year. A 2.4-mile streetcar route will open in Seattle later this year, a project that cost $134 million. Atlanta, Dallas, Milwaukee, and many other cities have similar projects either planned or under way.

Memphis trolley cars have been rumbling up and down 10 miles of tracks since 1993.

Enjoy It
Some worry that the Memphis population won’t be able to support all of the urban renewal blossoming across town.

But Morris’ advice on South Main is to simply enjoy it. “It’s in your city,” he says. “It’s a big part of Memphis’ history and it’s going to be a big part of Memphis’ future.”