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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Margarita Time

This week officially marks the beginning of summer, although, truth be told, it feels like we’re already a few months into the sultry weather season. The only upside to the uptick on the thermometer is that I can beat the heat with an ice-cold margarita.

It’s not that I don’t like to dally with daiquiris or that I never perk up with a piña colada, but I’m my father’s daughter, which means that margaritas are my jam. I like to drink them frozen, although my enthusiasm for the drink frequently leads to a massive “ice cream” headache, and I like to drink them on the rocks. I’ll mix them with the mid-priced José Cuervo, and I’ll mix them with Patron when I’m feeling rich, or Sauza when my pockets are bare.

Lately, my kitchen margaritas — best served after a soccer game, yard work, or just a hot day spent outdoors — are whipped up very simply: a jigger of my latest favorite, el Jimador tequila, in a shaker, along with four ounces of Jim O’Brien’s Crazy Rita margarita mix, ice, and a slice of lime. I shake it up, then strain the mix into an ice-filled old fashioned glass rimmed with lime juice and kosher salt. Honestly, I don’t even bother with triple sec, although I have a bottle languishing on my dining room bar cart just a few yards away.

Elena Elisseeva | Dreamstime.com

Double-distilled and made with 100 percent agave, there’s a crispness to el Jimador, which comes from the western Mexican state of Jalisco, that I prefer to other tequilas. And O’Brien’s Crazy Rita — which I first tried during a pop-up liquor store tasting hosted by O’Brien himself — is not too tart, not too sweet. Unlike some margarita mixes, it’s made with cane sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup. Calorie-wise, it comes in at 80 per cocktail, which is better than most mixers. Plus, O’Brien is a Memphian, a chef who turned lemons into, well, adult beverages by parlaying a burgeoning business selling seasonings and sauces at area farmers markets into a booming business by selling his wares at grocery and liquor stores. And trust me — it feels good to drink local.

Speaking of drinking local — Las Delicias gets my vote for best in town due to the fresh-squeezed lime juice that’s used in the recipe. I also like the frozen margaritas at Las Playita Mexicana out in Bartlett. The seven varieties of margaritas on the menu at Babalu in Overton Square might sound blasphemous to traditionalists, but the quality ingredients make up for the sass. I recommend the Tamarind Margarita, which combines Cazadores tequila, orange juice, the house sour mix (which is fresh-squeezed), and tamarind extract to make a heady, thirst-quenching quaff. The Champarita, a mix of sparkling wine, agave nectar, triple sec, and sour mix, tastes just as it sounds, like a lighter margarita or a margarita-mimosa blend.

Many restaurants go wrong by using cheap tequila, hoping that the sour mix masks the taste. Or they use a sour mix laden with low-quality ingredients — corn syrup, shelf-stable lime juice, preservatives, and artificial additives — hoping that the tequila ratio might help drinkers overlook the wretchedness of the drink. Frozen margarita machines can get gunky and moldy if they’re not cleaned frequently. And, when it comes to a margarita on the rocks, drinks must be shaken, not stirred, to aerate the ingredients properly.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

New locations for Tart, Babalu, and Wild Beet Salad Co.

It is not news that Memphis is experiencing a renaissance on multiple levels, particularly on the food front, becoming a foodie destination all of its own.

So much so that some of the relative newcomers to the scene are already expanding.

Heather Bryan-Pike and Abby Jestis opened the French-inspired cafe and patisserie Tart in 2014 to much fanfare, and in April of 2015 sold the Cooper-Young establishment to a silent owner.

Almost since taking it over, the new owner and Sleepy Johnson, Tart’s chef and general manager, have been prepping for a new location, settling on the lobby of One Commerce Square.

The reasons are not only to bring their fresh, homemade, and locally sourced sandwiches (Croque Monsieur, am I right?), pastries, and soups to people who live in zip codes other than 38104, but also because of logistics.

“We sell our bread to other businesses, and we have to rent another space to make it and ship it [to our Cooper-Young restaurant]. It’s a pain, and it’s costly,” Johnson says.

At their second location, Johnson and company will make all their breads and offer a to-go window with most of the favorites on the menu as well as a few pre-made salads, granola, etc.

Johnson says they are looking at November for the opening.

Their plans don’t stop there either.

“We hope to acquire the restaurant space in the building and open a brasserie. It will be a whole other ball game,” Johnson says.

Tart, 820 Cooper St. and 40 S. Main,

(901) 725-0091, tartmemphis.com.

When Babalu first opened in Overton Square in 2014, there were two-hour waits on Friday nights. I know. I was there.

The Eat Here Brands eatery, which is also responsible for four other Babalus in Jackson, Mississippi, Birmingham, Knoxville, and Charlotte, hopes to reach those outside the parkways with its second Memphis location next to International Paper.

“They built a new building just off of Poplar,” Eat Here Brands CEO Bill Latham says of the former Cozymel’s location. “They contacted us and asked if we would be interested. We took a look and said yes.”

Plans are to be similar to the Overton Square location but different.

“Every one of our restaurants is different, but we will try to make sure there are plenty of similarities,” Latham says.

Perhaps most importantly, it will have another kick-ass patio. And the guacamole.

Latham says they hope to open by the end of the year.

“I’ve always thought Memphis could support two Babalus,” Latham says. “It’s a great location with a tremendous amount of office space all around us and great neighborhoods north, south, east, and west. We love Memphis.”

Babalu Tacos & Tapas,

2115 Madison and near the corner of International Drive and Poplar, (901) 274-0100,

https://memphis.eatbabalu.com.

Wild Beet Salad Co. has diversified its operations in more ways than one.

After opening in 2014 as Lettuce Eat Salad Co., owner Kelcie Hamm was informed that using “lettuce” as a verb was already trademarked by a company in Chicago. Eventually she settled on Wild Beet Salad Co.

“I love it. I’m very happy with it,” Hamm says.

Now that she’s in the middle of ordering all new uniforms, signage, and binary codes, she figured it would be a good time to secure that second location.

In April she signed a lease at a location in Knickerbocker Plaza at 4715 Poplar.

She hopes to open in the fall.

Wild Beet Salad Co. serves fresh, chopped salads made to order topped with fresh-made dressings along with a variety of wraps in a fast-casual style.

The new location will be an exact replica of its original counterpart but with some additional seating.

“I’m really excited. I’m hoping to open more,” Hamm says.

Wild Beet Salad Co.,

6641 Poplar, Suite 106 and 4715 Poplar, (901) 552-5604, wildbeetsalads.com.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Update on LBOE, and Other News

Justin Fox Burks

• Quick update on LBOE, which shut down in April after a fire. 

Tyler Adams of LBOE writes in a email, “Construction has started. The roof should be done in a couple weeks then interior work can start. Hopefully September for opening. We will be at Burger Fest on August 28th.”

• Congrats to Babalu which won “Best Margarita” at last weekend’s Margarita Festival, put on by the Flyer

A good time was had by all. Check out the photos on our Facebook page

• More fun from the Flyer: Burger Week is coming up July 13th-19th. 

Restaurants across the city will be offering a $5 burger special during the week. 

More info to come … 

• First, there were beerings, and coming soon … brewcelets! 

• MasterChef Junior winner Logan Guleff is participating in the James Bear Foundations’s Blended Burger Project, which has a goal of serving healthier burgers. 

Chefs from across the country create burgers that incorporate mushrooms and then put them up for a vote. The top vote-getters win a trip to New York to cook at the James Beard House.

Guleff’s burger is the Mushroom Monster. Vote here.  

Krystal is offering a limited time “Fired-Up” menu. Featured items  — burgers, corndogs, and chicken sandwiches — can be topped with a cheese sauce made with Tabasco sauce. There’s also a Fired Up combo. 

Through August 7th.