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IPA All the Way

Soul & Spirits Brewery’s Hoochie Coochie IPA is the best craft beer in Memphis, according to the more than 800 voters of the Memphis Flyer’s 2024 Beer Bracket Challenge, sponsored by City Brew Tours, Eagle Distributing Company, and Cash Saver.

This marks the first time Soul & Spirits has won our challenge. The brewery had not yet opened its doors in 2021 when we last held it. Their win unseats Crosstown Brewing Company, who has held onto the VanWyngarden Cup since 2021. Back then, Crosstown’s Traffic IPA upended Meddlesome Brewing’s three-year reign atop the Flyer’s annual beer bracket contest with its 201 Hoplar.

Soul & Spirits takes home the prestigious VanWyngarden Cup.

Ghost River Golden took top honors in 2017, the first year of the competition. But it’s been IPA all the way since then. That’s five wins for an IPA — apparently the top style in Memphis — almost every year we’ve done this.

Since Soul & Spirits opened in 2021, it’s won top honors — Brewery of the Year — in 2022 and 2023 in the Tennessee Championship of Beers.

“Winning a competition against your peers is really cool but to have people locally vote for us — that this is their favorite beer in Memphis — that means a lot,” says Blair Perry, who co-founded and owns Soul & Spirits with her husband, Ryan Allen. “We’re still really new, so it is nice that people acknowledge that we’re around and like what we’re doing.”

Allen and Perry say Hoochie Coochie IPA started as an American IPA, “but it just turned into chasing a flavor.” When asked what flavor, Allen says “goodness.” Hoochie Coochie’s hops change from batch to batch, he says, based on what’s available.

“But just trust me, we’re going on a road,“ Allen says. “We’re going on a journey.”

Perry says they’re always chasing a “juicy, citrusy flavor with a nice bitterness that makes you want to keep drinking.”

As for the name? It’s fun to say, they note, and one of the first beers they named. But it also fit with the Soul & Spirits naming convention. Memphis-area music plays onto the labels and into the names of Soul & Spirits beers. So conjure up “I’m a Hoochie Coochie Man” by Muddy Waters next time you sip a pint and search the can label for song references.

Blair Perry, Ryan Allen, and the ever-famous writer Toby Sells

This year was completely different for the Beer Bracket. First up, we opened up the challenge to any brewery in Memphis, any size, whether or not they had beers in stores or not. That brought in Boscos, who, one could argue, blazed the path for craft beer in Memphis. The change also made room for some newcomers like Urban Consequence Brewing, Memphis Filling Station, Cooper House Project, and Memphis-area beer bar and brewpub, Mississippi Ale House.

Gone were any divisions that have, in the past, separated our bracket into very basic beer categories — light, dark, IPA, and seasonal. The beers commingled — stouts vs. IPAs, for example. Though, we made sure no two beers from the same brewery were seeded against one another.

In the end, we had 32 beers from 16 breweries. Each brewery selected two beers for random seeding. (I literally pulled the match-ups out of a hat.) These went right on our bracket. That bad boy was digitized, and over two weeks these beers faced off, fell out, or advanced to the next round.

The final round had Hoochie Coochie up against Cooper House Project’s Midtowner lager, which won a narrow victory over Hampline’s Tandem Pilot double IPA to make the finals. In the end, Hoochie Coochie emerged as the winner, edging out Midtowner by only 130 votes.

The Memphis Flyer Beer Bracket had more than 10,500 votes this year from states across the nation, though most votes came from Midtown Memphis.

You know we love beer at the Flyer. And we know you do, too. (Well, at least hundreds of local voters do, anyhow.) So, we felt a duty to let you know that state lawmakers had you on their minds this year. Here’s rundown of some legislation that could find its way to a pint glass near you.

The Law and Your Beer

It wouldn’t be a regular session of the Tennessee General Assembly if lawmakers didn’t change the way you drink, or try to, anyway.

Lawmakers thought about cold beer, drunk cops, and Sunday sales. They also thought about more serious matters like date rape and treatment programs for DUI offenses. Some ideas worked. Some didn’t.

No Cold Beer for You

Rep. Ron Gant (R-Piperton) knew his legislation “got quite the buzz,” a phrase pounced upon by another GOP lawmaker with “no pun intended!” Har har.

That legislation would have banned the sale of cold beer at stores. So you don’t have to go back and make sure you read that right, here it is again: That legislation would have banned the sale of cold beer at stores.

Eyebrows raised everywhere. Headlines stacked up. Message boards dripped with disbelief.

But when Gant first spoke about the bill, he said “the buzz” about banning cold beer sales was moot. It was part of the original legislation, but after meeting with stakeholders across the state (probably meaning lobbyists for retailers), it was no longer part of his proposal.

He clarified this during an early committee review of the bill. The intent was never to target 12-packs or 24-packs, it was on “high-alcohol, single-serve containers.”

“Some people have educated me on this,” Gant said. “They call them 2x4s or tallboys. You see them laying on the side of the road where they’ve been obviously thrown out. So, we know that they’re being abused, and people are drinking these, and not making it home to enjoy at their house.

“So, there was never going to be any intent — by me as the sponsor — to take away the right and the privilege for the good actors of being able to buy a 12-pack or 24-pack and take that home as responsible adults. I just want to make that clear, you know, for the record. So that everybody feels at ease. But none of that is included in this legislation.”

And feel at ease they did, it seems. Those hard headlines that read like “Proposed Tennessee Bill Bans Selling Cold Beer” (from VinePair) had softened to jokier ones like “Tennessee’s Cold Beer Ban Bill Is Officially On Ice” from Nashville’s News Channel 5.

For many, though, the idea seemed in range and on-brand for the GOP. Memphis Reddit users called it “stupid shit” and “bullshit” and that (sarcastically) these lawmakers were “tackling the real issues.” It also reminded them of another GOP fave: gun control.

“But … but … beer is an inanimate object,” wrote u/Boatshooz. “It doesn’t drink itself. And we don’t need to pass further laws that just hurt responsible drinkers, we just need to enforce existing laws.

“I swear I’ve heard that same argument from those same legislators about something else … can’t remember what it was. Why are they taking the opposite stance with beer?”

The law would, however, create a new group to study alcohol consumption and abuse in the state, with a report due annually. Gant said (but didn’t cite sources for his information) that drunk driving and alcohol consumption has surged in recent years. The bill was passed by the legislature but had not been signed by Gov. Bill Lee as of press time. 

Sunday Sales

You’ve been there, probably. You’re headed to your Sunday Funday, walk into the grocery store only to find the beer section dark, maybe with shades drawn over them or a lock on the cooler door.

Then it hits you. That backward-ass state law says I can’t buy beer here until noon. You may even have a thought about some pious state lawmaker sitting in a church somewhere, praying that the law will somehow nudge you out of the beer aisle and into a pew somewhere. Well, those beer lights will remain off on Sunday mornings, at least for another year.

Nashville Democrats Rep. Bob Freeman and Sen. Jeff Yarbro tried to change that. They described the bill simply as “the alignment of the sale of alcohol on Sunday to every other day of the week.” They said many sporting events are overseas and on different time zones. Some venues, they said, would like to sell alcohol to those who want to watch them. 

The only real vocal opponent of the bill was Rep. Tom Leatherwood (R-Arlington), the former Shelby County Register of Deeds. He tried hard to marry the Sunday-sales legislation with another Freeman bill focused on preventing sexual assault.

He called them “twin bills” even though they could not have been more different. But still he told his GOP colleagues that limiting Sunday sales could save a life, and someday, maybe, end up on your end-of-life sizzle reel.

“Now, any of us that have drunk the alcohol [yes, he said the alcohol] before … it will just naturally reduce the natural defenses of some. It’ll increase the natural aggressiveness of others,” Leatherwood explained. “Hence, it’s good to be aware of what can happen, as we will hear more about later. If you vote no on this bill, you may never know what young lady you save from sexual assault and harassment, to use the language coming up. You may never know. But then again, on the other hand, in that final judgment we will all face, you may find out who you save by voting no on this bill.”

For his part, Freeman tried to separate the two, saying, “You should be able to drink responsibly without being raped.”

Loaded Cops, Loaded Guns

Sen. Joey Hensley swore he had no idea where the idea came from or how it ended up in his legislation. But there it was, raising almost as many eyebrows as the cold beer ban: We were going to allow drunk cops to carry and use concealed firearms.

“As introduced, allows law enforcement officers to carry a firearm when under the influence of alcohol or controlled substances and certain other circumstances,” reads the bill description on the state website.

Hensley said all he wanted to do was allow everyone to carry weapons on college campuses, for crying out loud. (That idea didn’t even get the support of his GOP colleagues. The bill failed.) The drunk cops thing was added without his knowledge, he told Fox 13. But there it was in black and white pixels and the damage was done.

“TN GOP probably: Wait guys, I’ve got an idea,” tweeted Rep. Gloria Johnson (D-Knoxville). “I know Missouri one-upped us with their bill arming 3 [year olds], but I think we can counter with arming police officers who are drunk or high. Hear me out on this one …[three clown emojis].”

One supporter, though, over on a forum at tngunowners.com had another take.

“I know many seem to find fault with the concept of being armed and drinking, but really, as long as you’re not impaired,” wrote a user named Defender. “If you feel that strongly against it, maybe we should allow cars at bars or restaurants that serve alcohol.”

Date Rape

Rep. Freeman’s legislation (discussed earlier here) on alcohol and sexual assault passed this year, was signed by Lee, and will go into effect in January. That law will require anyone who serves alcohol to the public to take a course on the role of alcohol in sexual assault and harassment and on recognizing and reporting signs of human trafficking.

“If any of you remember, several years ago, the horrible rape case on a university campus here locally where a bunch of men carried a passed-out woman past 20 or more individuals that allowed it to happen,” Freeman said. “Not one of them stopped, said anything, felt empowered to do it, [or] understood what they could say.”

After this, the Safe Bar Tennessee program was developed by the Sexual Assault Center of Middle Tennessee. The program’s slogan is “See Something. Do Something.” Such training is already underway in Nashville, including some 50 bars Downtown, Freeman said.

Odds and Ends

Right now, certain folks under 21 can taste alcohol legally in the state. But they can’t drink it. Make sense?

Motlow State Community College, Jack Daniel’s, and Uncle Nearest have developed an associate’s degree in distilling that could produce more professionals in that industry’s workforce. Tasting the product gives students “real-world, practical experience” to “meet the critical need for their industry.” But they have to spit it out.

If you get a third DUI or BUI, you’ll have to wear a transdermal patch that will send a report to law enforcement if you have a drink. The main part of this legislation reduces jail time for the third DUI. Yet that only serves to give more time to commit to a 28-treatment program.

But the stranger, kind of Big Brother-y part of the law would make you wear that tattletale patch under your skin (so many questions) for three months or until your case is resolved, whichever came first. It goes into effect in July.

A bill would have yanked the alcohol license of a venue that served someone who later got into a car wreck that killed someone. It failed. Another bill sounds like it’s from the Prohibition era. It would have reduced “from two to one the number of credible witnesses who must be present when a law enforcement officer destroys an illegal distillery, a still, fermenting equipment, or related property.” It failed, too.

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Meddlesome Wins Bracket Challenge. Plus, News on Brews from All Over Town

Meddlesome Brewing Company’s West Coast IPA — 201 Hoplar — is the best craft beer in Memphis, according to the 530 voters in the Memphis Flyer‘s 2020 Beer Bracket Challenge, sponsored by our fine friends at the Young Avenue Deli.

This marks the third year in a row that 201 Hoplar has won the top spot in our challenge — a stunning three-peat made even more stunning as Meddlesome’s winning streak began the very first year of its operation.

“It’s an amazing feeling knowing that all of our patrons, fans, friends, and family care so much about us and our brand,” says Ben Pugh, who owns and founded Meddlesome with home-brewing pal Richie EsQuivel.

Each year, Pugh and EsQuivel have said they cannot believe their win and never expected it. Each win has been “crazy,” Pugh has said, leaving them feeling “blown away.” EsQuivel said of 201’s first-year win, “What the hell?”

According to EsQuivel, 201 Hoplar is a “West Coast IPA, through and through.” But while some new IPAs can be soft and fruity, EsQuivel says 201 Hoplar is “aggressive and bitter” but also “pineapple-y with citrus fruits.”

This year, we returned to our original format. The four bracket divisions separated Memphis craft beers into four very basic categories — light, dark, IPA, and seasonal. We blind-seeded the breweries’ beer choices in an event last month at Young Avenue Deli. Voters took it from there, moving 24 beers toward the championship.

Cheers to these meddling kids! (l-r) Richie EsQuivel, Ben Pugh, brewer Amber Rogers, and volunteer Larry Stone (back) celebrate Meddlesome Brewing Company’s three-peat victory in Memphis Flyer’s Beer Bracket Challenge.

Along the way, four beers emerged as winners in each of their categories. Wiseacre’s Tiny Bomb took top honors in the light division. Wiseacre’s Gotta Get Up to Get Down won in the dark division. Meddlesome’s 201 Hoplar was (obviously) the best IPA. Meddlesome’s Dirty Dova emerged on top of the seasonal division.

Here are some questions left after our fourth year of the Beer Bracket Challenge: Is Memphis an IPA town? What is Meddlesome’s secret sauce? And it appears new competitors will be lining up for next year’s challenge. So, can Meddlesome and 201 Hoplar do it again?

Meddlesome Brewing Company’s award-winning West Coast IPA 201 Hoplar is flowing into shiny, new cans — and hitting shelves this month.

Beer News You Can Use

The Memphis craft beer scene will look different this time next year. New breweries are on the way. New locations of existing breweries will come online. New beers will line local shelves. And familiar beers will line shelves farther from Memphis.

One brewery has new owners implementing a raft of changes. And, certainly, new beers will flow from all of the local brewers in the next 12 months.

In short, it’s a great time for Memphis craft beer and craft beer fans. And it’s about to get better.

There will be growth, for sure. But it won’t be like the rapid ramp-up of 2013 when three new breweries — Wiseacre, Memphis Made, and High Cotton — all opened within six months of each other.

But here’s a big win: Every craft brewery that has opened here since 2007 is still open. Maybe that sounds small, but it’s huge. Craft breweries in other cities open and close, sometimes with the regularity of local restaurants. That hasn’t happened here, and it speaks volumes about Memphis’ craft scene.

As craft beer’s profile has deepened, Memphians understand craft better than ever before. Our breweries continue to up production volume, settling their beers into more and more places and into the mouths of more and more consumers. And they ain’t slowing down.

The next 12 months will bring changes — big and small but all good — for the city’s craft scene. I’ll raise a pint to that. You should, too.

Ghost River

Bob Keskey and a group of partners bought Ghost River Brewing just more than a month ago. One of their first moves? They’re bringing back the tree.

Ghost River’s original, iconic logo — that spooky-looking bald cypress tree — will return soon to the spotlight of the iconic brand’s aesthetic. The tree was replaced with a lantern (another apt nod to the brand’s “wandering” spirit and to the Ghost River itself) in a brand redesign a few years ago.

Keskey says he started the pursuit to buy Ghost River about two years ago. It was an “on-again-off-again” situation for awhile with the Feinstone family (the previous owners). It was a “long dance,” he says, but the deal closed in January.

Keskey lives in Memphis but is a native of Milwaukee, Wisconsin, where “beer is a staple of our diet.” He originally fell for Ghost River Golden, a “nice, easy, drinkable beer.” Then he was “hooked” on Grind House, tried the rest of the beers, met head brewer Jimmy Randall, checked out the taproom, brought his investor group in to do the same, and began the pursuit to purchase the operation. He says Ghost River “just fit well with me.”

Changes at Ghost River will go well beyond the logo. The new group is investing capital (Keskey wouldn’t say how much) for a new canning line and a new keg line. He says they “completely redid the back production area” with new floors, new LED lighting, and new paint on the walls. “We’re giving the whole thing a facelift,” he says. Out front, work is underway for an expanded taproom to include a private area for indoor and outdoor events. All of it, Keskey says, will be complete by March 30th.

“Everything we’re doing comes either at the suggestion of the employees or customers or from [taproom manager] Victoria Keskey,” he says. “I’m not one of these owners that pushes his way through. So, this is about what the employees need, and I just made it happen.”

Memphis Filling Station

A simple question set Memphis Filling Station (MFS) on a new path, a journey that may conclude this year.

You may already know MFS, or think you do. The company began as a growler filling station, and they’ve poured other companies’ craft beers at dozens of events. But things changed when MFS co-founder Bryan Berretta was invited to bring some of his beers to an annual Brew Movement Against Muscular Sclerosis event.

“I was like, uh, no one drinks mine,” says Berretta. “I’m the only person who knows what it is. [The event organizer] said, ‘Well, bring it anyway.'”

So, Berretta and co-founder Heather Reed showed up with about 120 bottles and poured through almost all of them. At the end, Reed asked a path-changing question: “Why are we selling other people’s beer?”

That question led Berretta and Reed to negotiating on a space to allow them to sell MFS beer. The space would be shared with a food vendor in a sort of co-op situation. But Berretta isn’t providing more details than that.

As for beer, Berretta says he wants to do something different in the market. He says he’s into beers with “heavier, fruited, stronger flavors” and “crazy stuff” like a salted caramel pastry stout. “I want to be seen as the brewers’ brewery, where the other brewers feel comfortable coming in and doing collaborations with us, and it’s just fun and creativity and just forget the rest,” Berretta says.

Wiseacre

“We expect summer.” And that’s as close as Kellan Bartosch, owner and co-founder of Wiseacre Brewing Co., could predict for the opening of the company’s second location, a 43,500-square-foot, $7 million taproom and brewery now rising from the earth Downtown on B.B. King Boulevard between Butler and Vance. The taproom will make up only 5,000 square feet of the space. The magic for Bartosch and his brother and co-founder Davin Bartosch is in the rest of the space — the brewhouse, warehouse, lab, cellar, and grain mill.

“The biggest thing that [the new location] does for us is just allow us to fulfill our potential as a business,” says Kellan Bartosch.

Production capacity at the original Broad Avenue location was frustrating and tough, he says. The new location will allow growth. While many have asked, Bartosch says the opportunity for a regional brewery to go national (like Bell’s or Founders) just doesn’t really exist anymore, especially with the amount of breweries in the country now.

But for Davin Bartosch, Wiseacre’s head brewer, it’s more than that.

“The new location has more to do with us being able to make the best beer we can,” he says. “My goal, ever since we opened, was to make the best beer in the world. Having nicer equipment allows us to get much better at making beer.”

A new canning line will help eliminate more oxygen in the cans, which extends shelf life and creates consistency.   

For now, look for Wiseacre’s Regular Pale Ale year round, a fresh series of “new-age-y” IPAs, and new packaging, including 16-ounce cans, more 12-packs, and even 24-packs.

Crosstown

It was a hell of a party, especially for a 2-year-old.

The planning was intense, tons of new beer was made and poured, tons of friends came, and at its height, the party was a raucous, full-tilt boogie. It’s not every day a brewery turns 2. Even though Crosstown Brewing Company sold more beer on its second birthday than it did on its opening night, co-founder Clark Ortkiese won’t ever forget that first night.

“Of course, we’re better at serving than before, and our point of sale [system] didn’t crash, and the draft system wasn’t completely screwed up like it was on the first day,” Ortkiese remembers.

Two years on, it’s creativity that keeps Ortkiese feeling like work ain’t work.

“That’s how I get to cut loose creatively and how [head brewer] Stephen Tate gets to cut loose,” Ortkiese says. “We just figure out how we’re going to do this … and work toward it.”

Look for that creativity in new, seasonal cans including Delta Cat, a low-alcohol, Euro-born grisette (dropping this week), and a New England IPA called Chowda, out later in March.

Ortkiese says taking risks on esoteric styles comes easier as the Memphis craft beer market matures. For proof, he points to two “successful” sour-beer can releases over the last two summers.

“So, yeah, I trust the market enough to say let’s go do some weird stuff and some old-school stuff,” Ortkiese says.

Meddlesome

Meddlesome Brewing Company is readying to answer the question its fans have been asking since they opened: When can they find Meddlesome beers in stores?

“Every day we get phone calls and Facebook messages: Where can I buy your beer?” says Meddlesome owner and co-founder Ben Pugh. “Well, I can give you a list of places, but if you’re not going to bars or restaurants you’re probably not going to find it.”

Pugh says Meddlesome is a self-funded operation, and canning (either contract or in-house) was put on hold until they could afford it. Now that time has come. The award-winning 201 Hoplar is now flowing into silver cans, 12 ounces at a time. Pugh says to look for Meddlesome on shelves this month.

The brewery hit the ground running after they opened about two years ago, winning the hearts (and tastebuds) of Cordova craft fans and enough votes to win our Beer Bracket Challenge for three years in a row. They’ve been competing for taps all over town and will now compete for shelf space.

At the same time, they haven’t stopped meddling (you knew it was coming) creatively. Meddlesome did a special bottle release each Saturday in November, including Hot Mess, an imperial red ale made with Red Hots; All the Cookies, an imperial oatmeal raisin cookie brown ale; and Devil’s Water, a Belgian quad.

Memphis Made

You (probably) haven’t had a beer in the Ravine yet. But you (probably) will have come this time next year. The Ravine is a $5 million public greenspace concept now underway by Development Services Group and the Downtown Memphis Commission.

Before long, you’ll be Instagramming the hours away and drinking craft beer in a ravine on an old rail spur behind nondescript buildings between Union and Monroe (close to the old Commercial Appeal building).

“We kind of specialize in unique spaces here at Memphis Made,” says company co-founder Andy Ashby. “Our taproom is definitely different than a lot of others. So the unconventional design [in the Ravine] didn’t faze us in the least. We actually think there are opportunities there.”

New production space there will allow Memphis Made Brewing Co. to up its volume. It’s good timing, as the company readies to enter new markets after a recently signed distribution deal with Ajax. But the location came first and the distribution deal came second, says company co-founder Drew Barton.

“Finding that second location and knowing that we could push production was not a necessity to go find a distributor, but it definitely made the choice a little easier,” Barton says. “Had we not gone and found the second location or knew that we wanted to expand that way, we would have been totally happy just brewing on Cooper. But we knew that we could move beyond the volume we were doing to get to that next level.”

Timelines on projects like these can get squishy, but Barton says to look for the Ravine location to open “this year.”

Memphis Made also recently signed a separate distribution deal with Clark distributors in Mississippi. So, very soon you’ll be able to find Junt, Cat Nap, and more in stores outside of Shelby County for the first time.

Grind City

Back then, the area didn’t have a fancy name, really. There was a hill with a ragged collection of decrepit buildings. But there was that view. When Hopper Seely climbed the hill and saw the view, he knew.

“Once I saw that view, I was like, I don’t care how bad this place is to open …” Seely says, trailing off amid the construction noise. “Some days I wish I really didn’t ever say that. Once we got construction started — and if I’m ever having a bad day — I just look at that view and know it’s going to be worth it.”

Seely’s Grind City Brewing Co. sits behind the carriage and horse barns on North Second, above the east bank of Wolf River harbor. Signs in the area herald it as the “carriage district,” but it’s always kinda sorta been in the Uptown area and is now in what developers call the Snuff District.

All of it sits just north of Downtown, and now, atop that small hill, is a site under full construction, with one modern building that shines like an iPhone at a barn-raising. Walk out the back of Grind City Brewing’s massive taproom and onto its patio and you’ll see that view — the Pyramid, some of the city’s most iconic skyscrapers, and the big “M” of the Hernando de Soto Bridge.

Open in the “spring-ish” time, according to Seely, that patio and view should be very Instragram-friendly.

But Grind City is way more than a patio. Seely was 12 when he began brewing beer with his dad. He was 19 when he quit college and entered a brewing school in England. And in his early 20s, he won awards for his beers and business plans.

Seely and Grind City head brewer Mark Patrick are already cranking out beers. Out of the gate, Grind City will offer a light beer, an IPA, and a black (nitro!) lager. Later, they’ll begin offering up seasonals and one-offs. 

Soul & Spirits

“We are in very deep construction,” says Soul & Spirits Brewery co-founder and head brewer Ryan Allen.

Soul & Spirits is planned for an old building, also in the Uptown/Snuff District on Main Street. But Allen says it’s way too early to talk about a timeline to get the doors open, though the company’s Facebook page says “coming 2020.”

But Allen did talk beers: “We make a diverse range of beers for a diverse range of people,” he says. “We’re looking at both old-world styles and new-world styles and even being creative in our right, doing some of our own things that you may not have seen before.”

Allen earned his Masters Brewing Diploma in Germany. It’s much of that “old world” education that leads him to the mindset that brewers should really know how to brew “a great light lager beer.” Then, apply that knowledge to any kind of “new-world styles.”

High Cotton

You’ve definitely started to see more High Cotton out there. Thanks to a November distribution deal with Eagle, the Edge District brewery plays farther afield in the Memphis market (like the suburbs) in more grocery stores, convenience stores, and other spots.

Ryan Staggs, High Cotton Brewing Co. co-owner and co-founder, says for the first years of operation, “We were a man in a van. Now we’ve got dozens of delivery drivers and trucks that are out there every day, beating the street and putting more craft beer in more places than we can dream up.”

But those first years of self distributing were crucial, Staggs says, as the market was developing and they slowly ramped up production volume. 

Consumers are now well used to seeing three High Cotton beers in cans: Scottish Ale, IPA, and Mexican Lager. A fourth can — a seasonal — will be added later this year.

This spring, the brewery’s Thai Pale Ale will replace another saison as its seasonal beer. Staggs says the beer’s exposure in the Flyer Beer Bracket Challenge and the demand for the beer in the taproom helped High Cotton make the switch.

In the next couple of months, keep an eye out for a Flanders red ale. It’s been fermenting in wine barrels for two years, Staggs says, and so far, “It’s pretty phenomenal.”

Memphis Brewfest

If any of this has you craving a craft beer, you’re in luck. Memphis Brewfest is returning to Liberty Bowl Stadium. So far, 33 breweries and cideries are set to tap their stuff on the field on Saturday, March 28th, from 3 to 6:30 p.m. Tickets are $50-$100 at eventbrite.com.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Heavy Metal Beer: Hair Bands are Making Brews

The voting has opened for the Memphis Flyer Beer Bracket Challenge. Not being at the Young Avenue Deli for the Flyer‘s Toby Sells’ reveal of the match-ups in four categories — light beer, dark beer, IPAs, and seasonals — is no excuse not to cast a vote. These are some of the best beers from Ghost River, Wiseacre, High Cotton, Crosstown, Meddlesome, and Memphis Made. Who is the favorite? Well, that’s not my job, Spanky, that’s on you. Support your local brewers, and pray to all that’s holy that they don’t start promoting their beers with 1980s hair band music videos.

This is a greater danger than you might think. There is a strange trend lately of aging heavy metal bands launching their own brews, and it raises some legitimate questions: How involved in the process are they really? What’s the policy on spandex and carbonation? Do they wear hair nets? They should.

Is it any weirder than that Ian Anderson guy from Jethro Tull becoming a salmon farmer? Or Francis Ford Coppola making wine (yes, actually, he’s an almost-Italian foodie with a certain attention to detail)? Or, for that matter, George Clooney getting in (and out with a boatload of cash) of the tequila game or Ryan Reynolds flogging Aviation Gin (the commercials are brilliant)? Probably not.

Still, the side hustle of these aging rockers is a bit off-kilter. Growing up, I was never a fan of heavy metal because the music is so awful, but I got the general vibe. So when legendary Iron Maiden vocalist Bruce Dickinson starts going on about the band’s new Trooper Sun and Steel lager being “a delicate, subtle fruit flavor infused into a pilsner-style lager,” the world seems to have air-guitared itself off its cultural axis.

Sun and Steel is a saké-infused beer, or rather, it’s a double-fermented lager, with the second round of fermentation using saké yeast. The name comes from a song about a samurai on their 1984 album Piece of Mind. What’s more confusing is that it’s not actually bad — a little weird, maybe, but not bad. Dickinson says that the beer, now available stateside, is a thank you to all the fans who came out to the “Legacy of the Beast” North American tour in 2017. Okay. The Legacy of any Beast worth its salt, I’d think, would be neither subtle nor delicate.

Iron Maiden isn’t the only band getting into the game. Last fall, Megadeth released its second beer in collaboration with award-winning Canadian brewer Unibroue. It’s a Belgian-style farmhouse ale called Saison 13, named for front man Dave Mustaine’s chronic fascination with that number. We are told that it is made with “13 special ingredients.” In my opinion, a good beer needs to be made with however many ingredients a decent brewer thinks are needed to make it work, not the magic number of some formerly drug-addled obsessive compulsive. But that’s just me.

The first Megadeth foray into the otherwise decidedly not-Megadeth world of craft beer was called A Tout le Monde, which is French for “To Everyone.” It was named after one of those twangy heavy metal ballads where headbangers want to show how sensitive they are by not screaming. Megadeth went one step further and started singing in French. I understand it was a big hit in Quebec.

Craft beer has a pronounced hipster vibe — so who is the market for these beers? Does it even matter? If the metal bands aren’t playing the FedExForums, they are playing the Tunicas of the world. And when Bonnaroo kicks off for the year, the metal-heads do converge on Manchester. So why not?

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Beer Bracket Challenge 2020: Go Vote for Your Fave Memphis Beers

Voting is important. Voting on beer is important-er.

That’s why we launched the Memphis Flyer Beer Bracket Challenge. Voting commenced this morning (Thursday) and will run until the champion is picked on Saturday, February 29th. (Leap Year, weird.)

For this year’s challenge, we split our bracket into four divisions — light beer, dark beer, IPA, and seasonals. We really like the idea of the breweries all competing in (roughly) the same style.

Yes, you’ll still have, say, a cream ale up against a pilsner. But this ain’t the Great American Beer Fest, y’all. This is for anyone out there who loves Memphis craft beer.  

We asked six of Memphis’ craft breweries to send us their picks in each category. On Match-Up Monday at the Young Avenue Deli, we seeded those beers on our bracket. We picked the matchups blindly right out of our famous trophy — the VanWyngarden Cup. So, we didn’t influence the match-ups. That’s fair, right?

The rest is now up to you. Do you love Tiny Bomb? Are you ga-ga for Mexican Lager? Does Midnight Magic have you under its spell? (I’ll stop.) Well, go and do your civic, craft-beer duty and vote at the bracket challenge website. (Did we give you the website yet? If not, here it is.)

You can vote once in each of the five rounds of voting — first round, Sweet 16, Elite 8, Final Four, and the championship round. It runs just like another lesser-known tournament that happens this time of year involving basketball. Except it’s better. It’s Memphis craft beer.

if you’re not yet convinced to get off your barstool and go vote, let’s sweeten the pot. Some lucky voters will win tickets to the one-of-a-kind Memphis Brewfest, a beer festival held on the field at Liberty Bowl Stadium.  

Best of luck to all of our breweries this year: Ghost River, Wiseacre, Crosstown, High Cotton, Memphis Made, and last year’s winner, Meddlesome Brewing.