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We Saw You

WE SAW YOU: Friends and Family Night at Bishop

I attended the friends and family night at Bishop restaurant August 3rd at Central Station Hotel. According to the invitation, the event was held so Bishop could reveal its new menu.

The restaurant was closed several days prior to the event. The invite stated, “We are using this time as a reset. We have spent this week fine-tuning our space, while revamping and refreshing our current systems.”

I asked Andy Ticer, who, along with Michael Hudman, owns the restaurant (along with Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, Catherine & Mary’s, and Hog & Hominy restaurants), what that meant.

“Sometimes we need to take a second and re-evaluate what we’re trying to achieve and how we’re getting there,” Ticer says. “And if the way we are doing it is the best version of that. 

“And we felt we needed to dive into the food and the hospitality and just kind of do a refresh. Slow it down for a second and really concentrate on training. And just focus on getting dialed in there. Sometimes we need to do that every once in a while.

“That takes a couple of days to get in there and talk to people. What works and what doesn’t. Ways to become better.”

I asked what ways they felt they could get better. “Hospitality. From when you walk in the door, our table-side service, and, of course, the menu and the knowledge that the team has on cocktail, wine, and food.”

Brittney Bohannon, director of food and beverage for Central Station Hotel; Alex Grant, operations manager for Enjoy AM Restaurant Group; Ingrid Meza Carcamo, Bishop general manager at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Ryan Radish, wine director of Enjoy AM Restaurant Group at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)

They also have a new chef: Christopher Zelinski, who started two weeks ago at Bishop, Ticer says.

Chef Christopher Zelinski at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)

First of all, I think Bishop is one of the most beautiful restaurants in Memphis. I’ve heard the view from the inside looking out compared to being in a restaurant in New York or Paris.

The interior of the 3,500 square-foot space has black-and-white Cathedral-style flooring and lots of windows. Natalie Lieberman of Collect + Curate Studio with the help of Anna Wunderlich designed the interior, which Lieberman told me in a 2019 story that she created as a narrative based on the name “Bishop.”

As my story states: “Earthly elements, including leaves and mushrooms, combine with objects, including keys and bells, that go along with ‘Bishop,’ Lieberman says.

“There’s also a ‘spiritual underlying theme’ with the stars, beads, and tarot card, she says.

“A bishop’s cape from France is in a frame on one wall. Butch Anthony of the Museum of Wonder in Alabama created the hand painting in the dining room.

“‘Moody and rich textured’ was the feel she was going for at Bishop, Lieberman says.”

I loved everything I ate. My favorite was the escargot with persillade, country ham, lemon butter, and popovers. And make sure you try the shishito peppers with potatoes, lemon, chives, and crispy onions.

Escargot at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Shishito peppers at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Josiah Hoss at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)

I also loved the tuna carpaccio with green beans, sun gold tomatoes, bell peppers, tarragon, olives, and capers.

Tuna Carpaccio at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Alexandra Mobley at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)

The tasty “Steak Frites” was a New York strip, French fries, and sauce au poivre. They also serve chicken, snapper, lamb chops, “Mussels & Frites,” and the “Bishop Burger.”

My all-time-favorite Ticer-Hudman restaurant dessert, “Sticky Toffee Pudding,” is on the menu. I also tried the perfect creme brûlée with vanilla, orange, and caramelized sugar.

Sticky Toffee Pudding at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Creme Brulee at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)

As the menu describes the restaurant, Bishop is “a fine place at the corner of South Main and G. E. Patterson.”

I agree.

Webb and Tate Wilson at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Tonia Bailey and Tyra Johnson at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Henry Turley and Wanda Shea at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Billy and Robin Orgel, Susan Lindy, Jim McGoff, Lauren McGoff, Jay Lindy at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Abigail and Sam Stovall at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Sabine Bachmann, David and Libby Huffman, Rena Chiozza, and Katie, Corrie, and Ellie Hudman at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Karie Ticer, Brandon Ticer, Janet Ticer, Bill Ticer, Brandon Ticer, Jim McGoff at Bishop friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
We Saw You
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Cover Feature Food & Drink News

Burger Bonanza: Celebrating Burger Week with 10 Bluff City Burgers

Everybody loves Burger Week. At least, everyone on the Flyer editorial team certainly seems downright hungry to devour a burger (and write about the experience) for this annual cover story.

And why shouldn’t they be? Hamburgers are the black T-shirt of American cuisine — they go with almost everything. Whatever your palate, you can dress them up or down to your taste, even eschewing the meat if that’s what floats your burger boat (and as 20 percent of this story’s samplings do). This roundup of 10 Bluff City burgers runs the gamut, from the classic to the most gourmet of garnishes.

Whet your appetite with these helpings of hamburger, and then see page 17 for a full list of the Burger Week specials available around town. In the meantime, if, like Frank Zappa and The Mothers of Invention, you find yourself “Cruisin’ for Burgers,” we hope this list will be your burgerific guide.

The Bishop Burger at Bishop
Bishop, inside Central Station Hotel at 545 South Main, feels both familiar and otherworldly: You’re in the heart of historic Memphis, but with a French twist. A light Eurodisco take on Françoise Hardy’s “Le Temps De L’Amour” echoes through the room when the burger enters, buttered brioche buns gleaming, a steak knife plunged into the center, and all else is forgotten. Much care has gone into this creation, which some food-savvy friends have dubbed the best burger in town.

The double patties are made with beef from Evans Farms, blended with filet and short rib trimmings, topped with cheddar cheese and “all natural, humane” bacon from Niman Ranch. And then there are the enhancements: a B1 sauce, “a play on A1 sauce,” essentially a red wine and butter demi-glace incorporating more bits of filet, and a tomato aioli. The latter is made with tomatoes fermented for several days in the Bishop kitchen, adding a subtle tartness to the profile.

If you opt for pommes frites, try them with the garlic and dijon aioli, which takes the French penchant for mayonnaise with fries and throws a mustardy bite into the proceedings. Merveilleuse! — Alex Greene

Bishop, 545 S. Main Street #111

Steakhouse Burger at RP Tracks (Photo: Shara Clark)

Steakhouse Burger at RP Tracks
“Proud loser of the Best Burger in Memphis award for what, 30 years now?” That’s the text on an advertisement RP Tracks ran in this publication a few months back, poking fun at the fact that they’ve never made it to the top in the Flyer’s Best of Memphis “Best Burger” category. That may well be true, but their burgers are the business.

The standard RP Burger is a good go-to if you’re looking for a classic (8-oz. Angus patty and your choice of cheese, alongside a setup of lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickles), but don’t stop there. The bacon cheddar and jalapeño burgers are both solid choices, but — being a fungi fanatic — I opt for the steakhouse. A thick, juicy beef patty is topped with grilled red onions and mushrooms, covered with melted Gouda shreds, and sandwiched in a potato bun. You can add the fixings to it, if you’d like, but with or without the extras, you’re gonna need to take a tip from Guy Fieri and do “the Hunch” — cradle it from underneath to hold it all together, tilt your head to the side, and open wide to get all that goodness in one bite. Any of Tracks’ burgers can be made with a Beyond Burger veggie patty, and they’re served with hand-cut fries. I go for the tots because that’s how I roll. — Shara Clark

RP Tracks, 3547 Walker Avenue

The Fye Junt at Plant Based Heat (Photo: Samuel X. Cicci)

The Fye Junt at Plant Based Heat
It’s fire, fire, everywhere with one of Plant Based Heat’s signature burgers. The new vegan restaurant by Ralph Johnson brings in all the traditional flavors of Southern cooking, just without the meat. For burger time, I emerged slightly singed, but none the worse for wear, after diving into the Fye Junt burger.

The Beyond Meat patty is simply the canvas for the firestorm to come. Jalapeño peppers? Check. Vegan pepper jack cheese and spicy mayo? Absolutely. But instead of a simply overwhelming heat wave, PBH’s secret sauce, coupled with Memphis Sweet Heat BBQ sauce, brings the spice back down to a manageable level just before things get out of hand. For good measure, toss in fresh spinach, tomato, and caramelized onions.

The Fye Junt fresh off the grill sure feels like messy and greasy goodness, with a texture akin to biting into a regular ol’ beef patty. Even if you’re a devout carnivore, like me, the Fye Junt will satisfy, I promise. Just maybe make sure there’s a glass of water nearby. For it’s all in the name: The Fye Junt truly brings plant-based heat. — Samuel X. Cicci

Plant Based Heat, 669 S. Highland Street

Ostrich Burger at Off the Hoof (Photo: Julie Ray)

Ostrich Burger at Off the Hoof
I’d heard about two great places for a burger in Arlington — Off the Hoof and Slingshot Charlie’s. I planned to try both and the best burger would get a write-up. By default Off the Hoof won the competition. Slingshot Charlie’s was shuttered for the week so that the owner and staff could celebrate the Fourth of July. Don’t fret, Charlie should be slinging shots by the time you read this.

At Off the Hoof, I had planned to have the $5 house burger. But then I saw the “Big Game” menu. I had to go there. It boasted buffalo, elk, wild boar, ostrich, and venison burgers. I was informed that fresh ostrich meat was shipped in on Tuesdays and Fridays. This tasty trek was on a Friday. Score.

I made a mistake. It tasted like beef. I expected more. There were some interesting sides ordered — Frito Pie (Fritos corn chips, chili, and cheese) and Freta Fries (hand-cut battered fries with feta cheese and buffalo sauce).

I wish I’d tried the $5 burger. The place was full of regulars. You don’t get regulars with a $19 ostrich burger that tastes like beef. Google informed me that ostrich was a lot healthier than beef and an ostrich looks like Big Bird.

My apologies to Sesame Street, but I took that as a win. — Julie Ray

Off the Hoof, 12013 US-70, Arlington, Tennessee

Mr. Good Burger at Roxie’s Grocery (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Mr. Good Burger at Roxie’s Grocery
“I hope you don’t have any work to do this afternoon.”

I’m standing next to Daris Leatherwood, chef and owner of the Sum Light Bistro food truck. We’re in line at Roxie’s Grocery, waiting for our orders. The cooks are presiding over a full griddle. It’s lunchtime, and we’re behind a big order destined for workers at nearby St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital. Roxie’s is an Uptown landmark, the kind of place where you take time to talk to your neighbors. Leatherwood’s been telling me about launching his food truck when he asks what I ordered. I’m getting the Mr. Good Burger, the H-bomb of the Bluff City burger scene. I tell him I’ve got to write about it once I’ve eaten it. “You’re gonna have to take a nap,” he says.

The Mr. Good Burger comes wrapped in a foil package that’s bigger than both my fists — and I’m a bass player with long fingers. It’s a double bacon cheeseburger with all the trimmings, but that generic description doesn’t convey the sheer magnitude of this classic. The four strips of super-thick bacon are bent double and inserted between the patties. I have to unhinge my jaw to take the first bite and blast off to carnivore heaven. They call it “Mr. Good Burger” for a reason. This is the Platonic ideal of the two-patty griddle burger, a mixed-meat masterpiece.

Now I’ve got to lay down. The things I do for journalism … — Chris McCoy

Roxie’s Grocery, 520 N. 3rd Street

The Bshop Wagyu Burger at the Beauty Shop (Photo: Jon W. sparks)

The Bshop Wagyu Burger at the Beauty Shop

My burger of choice, the Bshop Wagyu Burger at the Beauty Shop, is daunting, understandably pricey, and a thing of wonder. The $12 delight comes with a tasty special sauce, lettuce, tomato, cheese, pickles, and onions. I ordered bacon, avocado, and mushrooms on top of that (75 cents each) because I could. Cheeses available are American (my choice), cheddar, pimento cheese, provolone, and gruyère. And you can get an egg in the mix for another buck.

Once you’ve outfitted it, you’ll find it difficult to deploy in the traditional way. There is a top and bottom torta roll, but everything in the middle makes it difficult to chomp without dislocating a jaw, so you may want to have utensils at the ready. Still, going at the mushrooms with fingers or the avocado with a fork doesn’t diminish the pleasure in the slightest. The beef is sublime and the veggies are yummy. It is fairly typical of what you get at the Beauty Shop — or any of Karen Carrier’s eateries — in bringing forth the freshest ingredients and splendidly prepared dishes. — Jon W. Sparks

The Beauty Shop, 966 S. Cooper Street

Firecracker Burger at Clancy’s Cafe (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Firecracker Burger at Clancy’s Cafe

I can’t resist saying the Firecracker Burger at Clancy’s Cafe bursts with flavor. But it really does. It’s delicious.

But I won’t say “explode” because it’s not one of those so-hot-it’s-inedible food items.

“It is two 8-ounce patties, ground beef, that’s stuffed with our homemade pimento cheese and pickled jalapeños,” says Tyler Clancy, owner of the Red Banks, Mississippi restaurant.

“And then we fry the burger, of course. It’s on a toasted sourdough bun with our hand-breaded onion rings. The onion rings are on the burger. And then we do our in-house queso cheese dip on all of it.”

The burger is just one of those things that was so good it stayed around. “This was like a Fourth of July special probably five, six years ago. It had great success. People really liked it. It eventually made its way on the menu.”

And, again, this isn’t some fiery burger that will make you run for water. “I would just describe it as more of a mild to medium heat. The jalapeños aren’t very hot. So it’s more of a spiciness than it is a real tongue-burner.” — Michael Donahue

Clancy’s Cafe, Hwy. 178 West, Red Banks, Mississippi

Chipotle Black Bean Burger at Evelyn & Olive (Photo: Abigail Morici)

Chipotle Black Bean Burger at Evelyn & Olive
As a Catholic, I’ve made my fair share of mandatory confessions, but this is, perhaps, my most embarrassing one yet: I tried my first burger in 2019, not as a curious toddler but as a semi-functioning 20-year-old picky-eater. It was a veggie burger on a certain local college campus, where my options were limited, my standards sinking, my expectations low, and, man, that burger was sinfully bad. Thankfully, I had the wherewithal not to give up just yet on expanding my palate, and I tried the Chipotle Black Bean Burger at Evelyn & Olive. And hallelujah, what a delight!

The ciabatta bun is lightly toasted, and the black bean patty, topped with tomato and lettuce, has just the right amount of crisp. But the mango-barbecue sauce is the real star of the show with a smoky but sweet flavor. Plus, the dish came with a side, so I also devoured some fried plantains, which mmmm, I could snack on all day and night and the next morning, too. Overall, the black bean burger is pretty simple compared to the other Jamaican and Southern dishes on the menu, but Evelyn & Olive can never disappoint. — Abigail Morici

Evelyn & Olive, 630 Madison Avenue

No.1 Farm Burger at Farm Burger (Photo: Courtesy Farm Burger)

No. 1 Farm Burger at Farm Burger
The eponymous sandwich at Farm Burger in Crosstown Concourse is exactly what you’d want something called a “farm burger” to be — fat, juicy, but tight enough in its bun to be easily managed by hand. Cooked to your order (I like mine medium well), the patty I had was topped with cheddar and a generous layer of caramelized onions and marinated in the establishment’s “f.b. sauce” (mayonnaise, garlic, and a touch of chili were some of the recognizable components). The bun encasing all these goodies was an integral part of the package, as well, its breaded halves neither melted on nor floppily separate.

The burger, which is served in a basket, can be further customized more or less to the customer’s taste, and a variety of sides is available. I was happy enough with the basic Farm Burger as normally prepared, but I was curious enough about what was billed as “pimento cheese fries” to give that menu item a try. It turned out to be a delectable (and generously proportioned) selection of french fries smothered in melted pimento cheese and crowned with sliced jalapeños. Forks are available. You can eat as many of the peppers — or as few — as you choose. It may depend on what your drink choice is; mine was a glass of a refreshingly light pilsner beer. Standard teas and soft drinks can be had as well. — Jackson Baker

Farm Burger, 1350 Concourse Avenue #175

Assassin Burger at Wally Hatchet’s (Photo: Toby Sells)

Assassin Burger at Wally Hatchet’s
Drive east past the Malco Summer Drive-In, cross the Wolf River, pass Golf and Games, and drive past the Shoney’s graveyard of Summer and Sycamore View. Find self-control enough to pass Elena’s Taco Shop, cross Elmore Road, and you’ll find Wally Hatchet’s, nestled in a strip mall with a how-can-this-still-be-Memphis address.

The lunch-rush crowd was finishing up as I entered. Customer graffiti covered the walls in between colorful prints of Hank Jr., Merle Haggard, and the like. The aesthetic was NASCAR-dad man-cave with a collage of art (like a painted board that reads “rock me baby”), a dented piece of a race car, a giant Harley-Davidson sign, and a toilet-roll holder shaped like a revolver. One wall was dedicated to military veterans.

Given the drive, I wanted the wildest burger Wally Hatchet’s had to offer. The Assassin Burger was tasty but mild, given an ingredient list that included pepper jack cheese, grilled jalapeños, and pepper sauce that tasted an awful lot like A1.

Wally Hatchet’s won’t become my next burger obsession. But, if you’re out that way, give it a try. — Toby Sells

Wally Hatchet’s, 6439 Summer Avenue

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Award-Winning Chefs Ticer and Hudman Talk Bishop, the Fire at Hog & Hominy, and More

Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman have been busy opening a new restaurant, reacting to a fire at Hog & Hominy, and being honored by the James Beard Awards. Here’s a look at what’s happening with the award-winning chef team.

MF: How does your new restaurant, Bishop, complement or contribute to the presence of French cuisine in Memphis?

Hudman: Memphis is always, to us, a place that starts by acknowledging where we come from. French cooking is rooted in that same style of techniques, passed down, done right. It’s about mentorship. These are things that we value in our company. We’re always looking for ways to build our people, and this was a natural entry point. When the idea came to us, it just made sense to flex those old muscles as a callback to where we started. The moment that we saw the space that Natalie Lieberman had designed and the collateral and branding from Loaded for Bear, it clicked. We’d wanted to do a French brasserie for a while, and here it all was, ready to go.

Ticer: It’s funny. My brother Olivier is from France, and he just happened to be in town the week we soft opened. He told us that, often, brasseries are attached to train stations and breweries, and here we were opening one in a train station. It just made sense. We have our homage to Downtown trattorias at Catherine & Mary’s, our riffs on Southern food and oysters from the fire at The Gray Canary, and then our classic French spot attached to a train station.

Memphis-based restaurateurs Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman (left to right)

What was it like opening a restaurant in the Central Station Hotel?

Ticer: There are challenges to opening any restaurant, but a restaurant in a hotel is a fun experience. We have to focus on all aspects of the food and beverage, from Eight & Sand and Bishop, to the events in the Grand Hall. The biggest challenge is that we really opened three spaces at once, so there are a lot of moving parts that needed to be focused on all at once.

Hudman: For us, it’s all about assembling the right team who can carry that culture of our restaurants. We want everything to feel like it was paid attention to and thought about for our guests, and that takes some time to get right. We opened in the middle of the holiday season, too, which was pretty intense.

How did your experience at Chez Phillippe contribute to the development of the menu and culture at Bishop?

Ticer: Chez Phillippe was such an amazing experience where we really learned to cook and really understood for the first time what it meant to cook with high standards. Chef Jose Gutierrez taught us so much about how to cook, how to pay attention to the details. A lot of the traditional menu items we first tasted cooking there, and after, when we were in Lyon, we were like, “Oh, this is how that started.”

The new Bishop restaurant inside Central Station Hotel

What are some menu recommendations you would make for someone visiting Bishop for the first time?

Hudman: That’s always so hard because we love everything. But the tinned seafood is really special and really specific to European cuisine. We have a lot of classic items to French cooking that we’re not trying to reinvent the wheel on, just make it properly. Salade Lyonnaise, French onion soup, tarte flambée, the raclette. It’s about the classic preparation, and we had fun testing until we had it right.

Ticer: I love to start with the grand aioli or the escargot, and the spinalis is beautiful. But there are lots of things. I think go in with an open mind and try things you haven’t heard of. And drink some wine! Ryan Radish, our wine director, really had a field day putting together this 150-bottle, all-French list that is really beautiful and fun to drink from.

How does Bishop benefit from being part of the Central Station Hotel?

Ticer: When we first met with McLean Wilson about the hotel and he gave us his vision of it, we were like, yeah, this will be a cool thing to be a part of, a place that celebrates Memphis and really feels local. We really appreciated that McLean wanted us to open our restaurant inside the hotel and not the other way around, a hotel restaurant. It allows us a lot of freedom to do exciting and fun things with the menu. Just like our experience with Ace, there’s a lot of infrastructure that the hotel has that gives us the ability to do things we’ve never done before, including working with these awesome design teams. Because the hotel really wants to function as the living room of South Main, we see a lot of guests from all over, but we’re still a part of the fabric of South Main and the Memphis community, rather than separate from it.

Another of your restaurants, Hog & Hominy, suffered an electrical fire earlier this year. How has the restaurant and the staff recovered since then?

Hudman: It’s been a real process. Our first priority was to get everyone working, and we met with everyone as a group, and individually, to make sure they were happy going to another restaurant. Our team was loyal to Hog & Hominy, and none of them wanted to leave, but they understood and are now doing their thing throughout the company. They’ve added a lot, too, to those restaurants, and when they come back for the reopening, they’re going to have learned a lot. It’s like an extended externship for them.

Ticer: We’re going through the insurance process now, which can be pretty frustrating at times. But what we know is that we’re bringing the existing structure down and starting over. Fitting Hog & Hominy into a ranch house was always something we were working around, even during the remodel that started last year. So now, we’re starting over with a blank slate. It will always need to feel like the old Hog & Hominy, but we have an opportunity to address things like comfortable chairs, noise, kitchen layout, server stations. It’s going to take longer than we hoped, but we’re not afraid of taking our time to get it right.

The James Beard Awards are an extremely high honor, recognizing chefs and restaurateurs from across the country. How did it feel to be named semifinalists once again — and also to be the only semifinalists from Memphis?

Hudman: It’s a huge honor to be on the list. I mean, just looking over the list of the chefs on there from our region and around the country, it’s really humbling to see your name on there. Our teams work so hard to produce in the restaurants, so while it is our name, it’s a nod to them as well. We can’t do it without them.

Ticer: Memphis is growing around the country as a place to come and visit, to see, to move to. We’re a city of history, culture, and great food in all kinds of restaurants. It’s an honor to represent that on a stage like the James Beard Awards.

What’s it like representing Memphis cuisine to those who may not be familiar, or who might think of Memphis food as just barbecue and fried chicken?

Ticer: You know, I think that Memphis might be known for barbecue and fried chicken, but we think of Memphis food as coming from the family table. It’s about feeding people because you care. We grew up and got into food because of our grandmothers and our family meals. Sure, you might get yelled at, but there was always good food, and everything came from a place of love. If we can make people feel cared for, then we’re showing them what Memphis food is.

What’s next for the Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman team?

Hudman: We are mainly focused on getting Hog & Hominy back open, but we do have lots in the pipeline. We’re just about finished with the redesign of the interiors at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen that Natalie Lieberman has headed up. We’re trying to make that restaurant feel updated and even more comfortable for our guests. And we have some plans to move into Catherine & Mary’s for some adjustments as well. It’s been running for four years and needs a little love. Mainly, we’re focusing on making sure that the restaurants feel good for the guests and work for the staff.

Learn more about these award-winning chefs at enjoyam.com.

Categories
Cover Feature News

Church of God in Changeover

The annual holy convocation of the Church of God in Christ, Inc., commonly called COGIC, in Memphis this week holds heightened significance for members of the “world’s fastest growing denomination.” It is the 100th anniversary of the gathering and the first for a new presiding bishop, Charles E. Blake.

Blake pastors the mega West Angeles COGIC, the so-called church of the stars — Magic Johnson, Denzel Washington, and Angela Bassett are members — in Los Angeles. He assumed the dual role of presiding bishop and COGIC chief executive officer following the death of Bishop G.E. Patterson in Memphis on March 20th.

Blake’s first convocation as presiding bishop could also be his last depending on the outcome of a referendum among the church’s delegates on November 12th to decide whether or not a special election should be held to fill the denomination’s top position. Though Blake or any other candidate would only serve out the last year of Patterson’s term until next year’s regularly scheduled election, even such a brief stay atop COGIC could include life-changing opportunities.

Blake already is the focus of some controversy. He earns a $900,000 salary and owns a 10,000-square-foot mansion in Beverly Hills while most of his congregation lives in impoverished South Central Los Angeles. And critics say his position on gay issues has changed from progressive to conservative in recent years, perhaps as a result of his elevation in the church hierarchy.

And they were all filled with the Holy Ghost, and began to speak with other tongues, as the Spirit gave them utterance.

Acts 2:4

Despite the importance of the city to the denomination — “Memphis is our Mecca,” Blake told the Flyer — COGIC remains misunderstood by many outsiders.

There’s no misunderstanding of the annual convocation’s economic importance to Memphis, however. The Memphis Convention & Visitors Bureau estimates that the event generates $25 million to $30 million for the local economy. This year’s centennial celebration and the election year of church leadership in 2008 could bring in even more.

Local economic impact aside, COGIC is one of the driving forces behind the global Pentecostal movement. “We are, in many ways, the mother organization of Pentecostalism,” Blake says, “which is the fastest-growing religious movement in the world.”

COGIC world headquarters is located at Mason Temple, just off E.H. Crump Boulevard, south of downtown Memphis. Mason Temple was the site of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.’s final speech on April 3, 1968, and today holds the remains of COGIC founder and temple namesake, Charles Harrison Mason.

Blake’s Mecca reference to Memphis reflects the church’s humble beginnings. Mason staged the first national COGIC pilgrimage here in 1907, scheduled after the fall harvest, when time and money would allow far-flung “saints,” as COGIC members are called, to make the trip. A century later, the annual convocation draws around 50,000 visitors. Membership has swelled to an estimated 5 million members in the United States and 57 foreign countries.

COGIC practices Pentecostal-Holiness spirituality, which emphasizes a personal, physical relationship with God. Worshippers may spontaneously break out in glossolalia, also known as speaking in tongues, which confirms their one-on-one connection with the Holy Ghost. As one preacher bellowed on a recent Sunday morning, “If God wanted other people to know what he was talking to you about, then he wouldn’t put it in unknown tongues.”

COGIC also is socially conservative. For instance, controversy followed Blake in 2003, when he accepted the Harvard Foundation’s Humanitarian of the Year award for his African charitable works from the Rev. Peter Gomes and invited the openly gay Gomes to speak at his church. After Blake’s congregation complained about a “sinner” preaching in their pulpit, Blake claimed that he wasn’t aware of Gomes’ orientation. The church issued a proclamation against same-sex marriage the next year, calling the homosexual lifestyle “aberrant and deviant.”

Some COGIC members have said Blake knowingly took the progressive stand but recoiled from it following the backlash from church members.

Let us now praise famous men, and our fathers that begat us.

Ecclesiastes 44:1

COGIC founder Mason was an outcast who dared to preach a new version of the Bible in Baptist country. Mason and his band of dissenters also happened to be black in 19th-century Mississippi. Not surprisingly, they were persecuted.

Mason held revivals and preached itinerantly until settling into his first church — a cotton warehouse in the Delta town of Lexington, Mississippi — in 1897, where the congregation was fired upon with pistols and shotguns, according to church lore. A decade later, Mason attended a Pentecostal revival in Los Angeles, which became known as the “miracle on Azusa Street.” He came to believe that speaking in tongues was the sign of a true believer baptized in the Holy Spirit. The Pentecostal-Holiness movement officially went global through the Azusa Street revival, and the Church of God in Christ followed.

Mason came to Memphis, where he opened the first COGIC church at 392 Wellington. By 1907, there were nine other COGIC churches, mostly small and rural, scattered throughout the tri-state region.

No one better embodied the growth of COGIC than another Memphian, the late Gilbert Earl Patterson, who served as presiding bishop from 2001 to 2007. A member of the closest thing COGIC has to a royal family, Patterson possessed a disarming down-home wit, but he also had a talent for leadership behind his folksy facade. When former President Bill Clinton eulogized Patterson last March, he told the crowd, “His church grew vast and great because people could feel [Patterson] believed in a God of second chances. People could feel that they were loved and mattered and could start all over.”

Patterson built a media empire headquartered at his downtown Temple of Deliverance. Bountiful Blessings, Inc., airs over radio station WBBP 1480 AM and on Black Entertainment Television and Trinity Broadcasting Network. The broadcasts, along with sales of DVDs, CDs, cassettes, and VHS tapes, have elevated the COGIC presiding-bishop job to unprecedented visibility.

For whether is greater, the gold, or the temple that sanctifieth the gold?

Matthew 23:17

Courtesy Carter-Malone Group

Bishop Charles E. Blake

Every Sunday morning thousands of saints fill the Temple of Deliverance sanctuary with the sounds of singing and clapping. A 50-person choir and full orchestra lead the music. In a dark room above the sanctuary, a production crew records the service for radio and TV broadcasts.

On one wall, 20 monitors of various sizes, some black and white, others color, show what the six video cameras in the service are capturing. On screen, a woman leads “praise and worship,” the warm-up for the sermon. She praises “Hallelujah!” and speaks in tongues, improvising as she channels the Holy Spirit.

Behind this scene, at the control room’s nerve center, the director sits at her switchboard with a headset on as red buttons on the board light up. She tells the cameramen what to shoot and how to do it. There are no rehearsals, and though she knows the program, she still must stay on her toes, especially when the speaker welcomes guests to the sanctuary and asks them to stand.

Next to the director, a graphics engineer programs song titles, lyrics, and scripture for display on two screens in the sanctuary. Like so many other COGIC employees, the graphics engineer started by volunteering her help and eventually became a full-time employee as she learned the trade. She repeats the COGIC statement of faith as she displays it on the screen.

A videotape operator with a wall-high panel of recording machines cues and rolls pre-recorded announcements and records a VHS master of the service, as well as DVD copies for the broadcast on BET and TBN.

The production is managed in-house and staffed entirely by COGIC members. They sing along with “Just a Closer Walk With Thee” and sway in their seats like the congregation. As one of them explained, “This is Bishop Patterson’s thing.”

The call center adjacent to Patterson’s Temple of Deliverance rings like church bells on Sunday, with viewers of the broadcast ordering DVDs or CDs. Now, more than seven months after Patterson’s death, you can still see him preach on TV, though the conclusion of each program is only available to those who purchase the entire sermon.

Patterson’s stature as presiding bishop attracted huge audiences. His message caused new members and even entire congregations to join the church. Patterson’s visibility, his elevation of the bishop’s office to global relevance, and the financial windfall that accompanied the changes make the position even more attractive to prospective leaders.

Let no man seek his own, but every man another’s wealth.

Corinthians 10:24

Patterson’s Temple of Deliverance reaches toward the heavens from the middle of housing projects near Mississippi Boulevard and Danny Thomas Boulevard, looking like a diamond amidst pieces of a broken bottle.

Blake explains that the location of Patterson’s church reflects COGIC’s mission. “When other churches have moved to the suburbs, we have remained in the heart of the city, administering to the needs of inner-city dwellers,” he says.

Blake admits that the church’s impact on the inner city is hard to measure. “You might say it doesn’t seem to be very successful, and in many ways that may seem to be true,” he says. “On the other hand, we have to [consider] how much worse things could be. The millions of people who are involved in the church may do what the church is advocating, and if so, some of these problems are less intense were it not for the church.”

Critics, however, say COGIC’s growth has come at great expense to its more needy members. They fear that financial concerns overshadow ministerial priorities and that profits outweigh prophecy in certain of the church’s works.

One of the critics is a former saint and Blake employee at the West Angeles Church of God in Christ. Todd Talbott joined the church in 1992 and accepted a job as director of development and communications for Blake’s Save Africa’s Children charity in 2005. Talbott, who had behind-the-scenes access, says Blake’s affluent lifestyle contradicts the inner-city ministry so important to COGIC’s mission.

“There are members who are overextended with their credit because they’re told that if they give to the church, they’ll be blessed,” Talbott says. “[Blake] lives in a 10,000-square-foot mansion on Benedict Canyon in Beverly Hills. The rich members of the congregation know, because they’re invited over there, but most people in the church have no idea.”

The Flyer obtained West Angeles COGIC’s 2005 payroll summary, which shows Blake’s salary at just under $900,000. Aside from the few stars who attend West Angeles, Talbott explains, the people in Blake’s church are impoverished residents of South Central Los Angeles.

“The bottom line is,” Talbott says, “what pastor needs to be paying himself almost a million-dollar salary, living in a mansion in Beverly Hills off the tithes and offerings of a congregation from one of the low-income areas of Los Angeles? The money he makes could be going back into the community.”

Talbott claims that Blake bestows special recognition upon big donors and offers tithers a special prayer, asking them to stand at the end of service before inviting everyone else to rise and join the congregation in prayer.

“That’s where pastors have prostituted the Word,” says Talbott, who was raised a Southern Baptist. “They’ve made people believe that good things will come to their lives if they give money. Do you think that’s something Jesus would do? Jesus hung out with the destitute. The pastors today are the Sagacees and the Pharisees — the rich, opulent who believed Jesus couldn’t be the son of God because he was too simple and hung around with the unholy.”

Eric Slack, Blake’s assistant chief operating officer, says that Blake is a successful businessman who, “really hasn’t been that dependent on the church.” He adds, “We believe in supporting members through benevolence funds. We have a number of larger ministries that … encourage community development.”

Questions about pastors asking more financially than their flocks are able to give will likely continue as long as the plate is passed. Then again, with Matthew 19:24 in mind, perhaps pastors are doing right by their parishioners, ensuring that riches won’t burden their passage into the Kingdom.

The Future of COGIC in Memphis

Three years ago, then-presiding Bishop G.E. Patterson announced that the 100th annual holy convocation would be the last in Memphis. Detroit and Atlanta had offered more attractive packages for the event. Last year, the Memphis Convention & Visitors Bureau worked out a deal to keep the convocation in Memphis through 2010, prompting Jerry Maynard, former chief operating officer for COGIC, to tell the Memphis Business Journal, “One thing we’ll never do is threaten to go away to drive prices down.”

Maynard has since reported that COGIC has agreements with some Memphis hotels through 2012. Still, the long-term future of COGIC convocations in Memphis is an open question. When asked if the church will consider moving the convocation, Blake says, “Not at this time.”